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                    ANNIVERSARY

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TABLE OF CONTENTS 030 by local illustrator Kinchoi Lam 008 Come Dine With Us A look back at our banner year in 2023 012 Table Radar New restaurant openings to take note of 016 Onwards and Upwards Where are past winners of the Tatler 228 Dining Awards today? 022 Hong Kong Calling Chefs of the world reflect on their first post-pandemic visit to Hong Kong 2 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM ILLUSTRATION SINDY LAU 005 Editor’s Note A word from Tatler Dining Hong Kong’s Senior Editor 006 Circle of Life All about this year’s cover art
044 028 The Ultimate Dining Cheatsheet Puning tofu with Our top ten caviar and uni from Amazing Chinese Cuisine, lists to help you Shanghai dine at a glance 034 No Guts, No Glory Why offal is becoming the cut of choice 040 A Look Back at 40 Years of the Tatler Dining Guide How we’ve documented Hong Kong’s best eats since 1984 044 The Forefront of Tradition Chinese produce is better today than ever before—here’s why 050 The Process Find out what’s changed in this year’s awards 052 Best of the Year The most impactful restaurants of 2024 060 Hong Kong Top 20 Our special awards go to... 072 Macau Top 20 The best of dining in the Las 058 Vegas of Asia 082 Best Restaurants Hong Kong and Macau 312 Best Bars Hong Kong 334 Index 3
Editorial HKT D@TATLE RASIA.C OM Editor-in-Chief Regional Managing Editor, Print Senior Dining Editor Dining Editor Sub-Editor Contributors Ahy Choi Karly Cox Gavin Yeung Fontaine Cheng Richard Lord Amalissa Hall, Amrita Katara, Andrew Dembina, Angel Law, Chris Dwyer, Dara Chau, Doris Lam, Evelyn Lok, Fiona To, Gary Suen, Gayathri Bhaumik, Grace Brewer, Joey Wong, Johannes Pong, Joyce To, Kee Foong, Kinchoi Lam, Lee Cobaj, Lorria Sahmet, Maggie Hiufu Wong, Melissa Tse, Rachel Read, Rick Boost, Salomé Grouard, Sandra Kwong, Sindy Lau, Suchetana Mukhopadhyay, Tara Sobti, Victoria Burrows, Wilson Fok, Zabrina Lo Commercial H KTAD@TATLERASIA .COM Deputy Managing Director Regional Head of Dining Project Manager, Dining Rachel Choy Andy Cheng Ashley Yue Marketing HKM KT G@TATLE RASIA.COM Regional Marketing Director Marketing Manager Nick Wilson Claudia Yu Events HKEVEN T@ TATLERASI A.COM Events Director Senior Manager, Events & Projects Hann Kwok Barbie Tsang Art and Photography HKA RT@TAT LERAS IA.COM Regional Creative Director Design Director Assistant Art Director Designer Regional Art Director for Photography Senior Photographer Photography Assistant Miguel Mari Teresita Khaw May Lui Sam Yu Zoe Yau Zed Lee Nicole Ma Production & Traffic H KPROD@TATL ER ASI A.C OM | HKTRAF FIC@ TAT LERA SIA.COM Regional General Manager, Publishing Services Production Manager Senior Production Officer Anne Mok Gemini Hui Sidney Kwok Circulation H KCI RC @TATLERASIA.COM Audience Data & Senior Circulation Officer Wilson Ma Tatler Asia H Q@TATLERASI A.COM Chairman and CEO Chief of Staff & Group Controller Chief Experience Officer Chief People Officer Michel Lamunière Mandy Lau Sean Fitzpatrick Maggie Shen Edipresse Group Chairman Pierre Lamunière CFO & COO Michel Preiswerk Vice President Sebastien Lamunière The Tatler Dining Guide by Tatler Hong Kong is published annually by Tatler Asia Ltd. 15/F, Global Trade Square, 21 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2547 7117. Email hkinfo@tatlerasia.com Copyright ©2024 by Tatler Asia Ltd. All rights reserved. Printed by High Technology Printing Group Ltd., 6/F, Cheng Wing Industrial Bldg, 109-115 Wo Yi Hop Road, Kwai Chung, New Territories, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3759 0888
EDITOR’S NOTE A Watershed Moment P ublications that can boast of four decades of history are few and far between, especially in today’s digital age, which is why it’s my utmost honour to be penning the editor’s letter for this monumental 40th edition of the Tatler Dining Guide Hong Kong. This is our biggest edition of the Tatler Dining Guide in many years (336 pages!), properly reflecting the return of Hong Kong’s dining scene after enduring some of the world’s longest and strictest social distancing measures. On our 40th birthday, we’ve taken the liberty of doing some healthy introspection, as one is wont to do ahead of such milestones. The result of such ruminations has been twofold: firstly, a comprehensive revamp of our system of reviewing and awarding restaurants; and secondly, a newfound ambition to expand our scope and cover more of Asia than ever before. The former involves dramatically expanding our panel of dining experts, who have contributed their picks of the best restaurants they enjoyed the most in the past 12 months. Using a 100point scoring system, where each restaurant is assigned between one and five points each, the panel is able to select a wider breadth of restaurants across the entire dining spectrum, from family-run neighbourhood spots to skyhigh fine dining, regardless of whether they have the requisite marketing budget, resulting in a more equitable representation of how our readers dine out today. Meanwhile, the latter sees our restaurant picks for all of this year’s editions of the Tatler Dining Guide across Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines and Taiwan consolidated into one master list of contenders for an all-new, Asia-wide dining awards programme. The Tatler Best of Asia awards, which launches this year, will identify the 100 most noteworthy dining establishments across the continent, including the new markets of Vietnam, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia, Thailand and India. Our Best of the Year awards will also be scaled up to the Asia level to recognise the talents functioning at the very top of their game— an example for those perfecting their culinary craft to aspire to. Stay tuned for more happenings during this hugely important year for Tatler Dining by visiting TatlerAsia.com or following us on Instagram at @tatlerdininghk. Bon appétit! Gavin Yeung Senior Editor, Dining, Tatler Hong Kong 5
Kinchoi Lam Hong Kong-based illustrator Kinchoi Lam tells Tatler Dining about the inspiration behind the cover art for this year’s guide Follow Kinchoi at @lamkinchoi 6 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Circle of Life Since 1984, the Tatler Dining Guide has been a publication that celebrates the very best of dining in Hong Kong—not only the chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and more that make up the culinary scene, but the people and themes that make this city all the more special. Beginning in 2022, we have tasked local artistic talents to give us their interpretation of what the city’s gastronomy means to them. This year, bornand-bred Hongkonger Kinchoi Lam illustrates what was the centre of culinary life for him while growing up. to cook them. The food depicted in this drawing represents my mother’s signature dishes and slowcooked soups, which were the flavours I often missed while studying in the UK. The Work: The Round Dining Table My mother said that a round dining table represents togetherness, so even though our home is not spacious, she has always insisted on using a large round table when we have meals together. There are four people in my family: my father, mother, older brother and me. As we grew up, my brother and I moved out one after another, and now our family only eats together once or twice a week. Every time I come home for a meal, I take pictures of the dishes, thinking that one day I will learn how THE TATLER DINING GUIDE When did you decide to become an illustrator? In 2016, I ventured into creative endeavours using illustrations and text. At that time, Hong Kong had a limited number of local picture books available. I believed it was crucial for children to have diverse perspectives on their own locality, and picture books served as an excellent medium for that purpose. Thus, I embarked on creating my first book through a process of avid reading and self-study. Fortunately, the book won the first prize in a Chinese writing award that year and was subsequently published. Its success has motivated me to continue my creative journey until this day. What is your connection to Hong Kong? Having grown up and been educated in Hong Kong, this city has provided me with invaluable opportunities, including creative inspiration and diverse life experiences. Hong Kong has always been a place where I feel a sense of security and belonging. Here, I have the freedom to wander aimlessly through its streets, engage in artistic pursuits such as drawing, and have meaningful conversations with people, all of which fuel my creative inspiration. Additionally, Hong Kong’s culinary scene offers a delightful array of international cuisines, an experience that sets it apart from other cities I have lived in. If you could only eat one Hong Kong snack forever, what would it be? Siu mai! I love the fish and meat siu mai from street stalls. It’s cheap, convenient and delicious. The chewy texture, combined with the seasoning of soy sauce and chilli oil, is the perfect remedy for hunger while out on the streets. I only eat this snack when I’m really in need, so each time I have it, it leaves a deep impression. 7
Come Dine With Us Creating in-person moments to gather and savour new flavours has always been at the core of the Tatler Dining ethos. As Hongkongers rediscovered the joys of dining out without limitations, we were there to meet you, our readers, with events both large and small to excite the palate once again TATLER DINING KITCHEN: AWARDS EDITION 1 April–June 2023 Riding on the high of the Tatler Dining Awards ceremony that took place on January 20, our Tatler Dining Kitchen series returned once again to KIN Food Halls, this time exclusively featuring the winners of 2023. Bringing together five pairs of chefs, the series ran over the course of three months, each time delighting diners in an intimate omakase format that featured a mish-mash of cultures as dreamt up by the winners of our Tatler Dining 20 and Best of the Year awards. These ranged from a Canto-Indian collaboration to a Singaporean-Venezuelan odyssey which, safe to say, were utterly unique culinary experiences that won’t be repeated again. 2 3 ON THE MENU The collaborators Barry Quek (Whey) x Ricardo Chaneton (Mono) 4 Manav Tuli (Chaat) x Agustin Balbi (Andō) Jayson Tang (Man Ho Chinese Restaurant) x Steve Lee (Hansik Goo) Palash Mitra (New Punjab Club) x ArChan Chan (Ho Lee Fook) Sebastian Lorenzi (Arcane) x Ashley Salmon (Roganic) 8 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
5 6 7 8 9 OFF MENU MACAU November 18–19, 2023 10 Over two consecutive weekends in November, Tatler Dining brought a cavalcade of sights, tastes and sounds to both sides of the Pearl River Delta, beginning with the first Macau edition of our flagship Off Menu 1. Jayson Tang and the Man Ho team 2. Barry Quek and Ricardo Chaneton 3. The camera eats first 4. A dish in the making 5. Dishes by Man Ho and Hansik Goo 6. Ashley Salmon and Sebastian Lorenzi 7. Agustin Balbi and Manav Tuli 8. Off Menu Macau 9. A beautiful bite 10. ArChan Chan and Palash Mitra THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 9
food festival. Taking place under perfect weather conditions right by the pool of Cabana in Banyan Tree Macau, Off Menu brought together some of the finest chefs from across Asia, serving one-off dishes that encapsulated their own distinct brands of gastronomy. Guests dined under an expansive blue sky to the tunes of DJ Mengzy as well as taking in a livestream of the 70th Macau Grand Prix; and as night fell, music makers Chinky Eyes lit up the evening session with their signature hip-hop and soul tunes. 1 2 3 ON THE MENU 4 The chefs Riccardo La Perna, 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Macau 5 Mung-Lam Ng, Ensue, Shenzhen Chan Chek Keong, Feng Wei Ju, Macau 6 Jimmy Lim, JL Studio, Taichung Uwe Opocensky, Petrus, Hong Kong Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm, Potong, Bangkok Seven Yi, Room by Le Kief, Taipei 7 Jan Ruangnukulkit, Saffron, Macau Lok Hin Yam, Galaxy Macau, Macau Paul Lau, Tin Lung Heen, Hong Kong Jordy Navarra, Toyo Eatery, Manila Barry Quek, Whey, Hong Kong 10 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
TATLER COCKTAIL FESTIVAL 8 November 24–26, 2023 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 16 The weekend following Off Menu, Tatler Dining took the action back to Hong Kong with the second edition of the Tatler Cocktail Festival. Bigger and better than before, this blockbuster celebration of Asian cocktail culture brought 12 local bars and 10 international venues to BaseHall 01 and 02 for 2023’s most complete assemblage of cocktail bars. Over the course of three days, avid drinkers were able to sample a cross-section of Asia’s best bars all under one roof, all the while whetting their appetites with food from Hong Kong’s most popular casual eateries and notable restaurants, and grooving to live musical performances and DJ sets. Capping off the weekend were the Tatler Dining Bar Awards 2023, which named the best in class in Hong Kong’s bar and drinks scene—proving without a doubt that the city’s cocktail culture is back in full force. 1. Chinky Eyes takes to the stage 2. The food line-up 3. Chan Chek Keong and team 4. Desserts by Lok Hin Yam 5. Uwe Opocensky 6. Jordy Navarra and team 7. All together now 8. Overseas bartenders assemble 9. Drinks up 10. Tatler Dining Bar Awards winners 11. Lorenzo Antinori 12. Drinks from Artifact 13. Sure as spritz 14. The Zuma booth 15. The Quinary booth 16. Happy faces all around 11

2023 was a bumper year for openings as borders opened up again, and notable local newcomers rubbed shoulders with blockbuster names expanding their brands to Hong Kong. 2024 looks to be as exciting: here are all the restaurants and bars that were opening around the time we went to print 13
CLUB BÂTARD 1-3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong batardhk.com Two of Hong Kong’s most loved restaurants, Bâtard and Hop Sze, are set to move behind a paywall this summer with the opening of Club Bâtard, a multistorey members’ club in the heart of Central. They’ll be joined by an all-day French brasserie and a whisky bar, along with a world-class wine collection. LEELA Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong leela.hk Opened by none other than our 2022 Chef of the Year, Manav Tuli, Leela turns the Hindu concept of divine play into a stylish dining experience involving hearty dishes plucked and reinterpreted from across the Indian subcontinent. Palatial decor by André Fu completes the sense of immersion. SABATINI Shop 4008, Level 4, IFC Mall, 8 Finance ifcsabatini Street, Central, Hong Kong Open in Rome for 65 years and in The Royal Garden for 31 years, Sabatini has expanded to a gilded new home in IFC Mall with plenty of rooms large and small to accommodate all 14 manner of dinner congregations. Chef Marco Livoti, previously of Sake Central and Rosita, heads the classically oriented Italian menu here. CRISTAL ROOM Forty-Five, Gloucester Tower, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong fortyfive.hk Situated in the multiconcept venue FortyFive, legendary French chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s newest Asian opening is dripping in fine crystal from Baccarat. Within confines designed by Parisian studio Gilles et Boissier, the cuisine features an innovative approach to traditional French gastronomy infused with Asian ingredients. PLAISANCE 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong plaisancehk.com Mirazur founder Mauro Colagreco’s newest restaurant in Asia is now open in Hong Kong, and it’s his most ambitious yet. Spanning three floors on Duddell Street in Central, it’s an ode to the oceans, with the venue structured according to the different oceanic zones. Similarly, the menu celebrates the riches of the ocean in spellbinding fashion, with head chef Heloise Fischbach at the helm of the kitchen. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
2SUP 20 High Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong 2suphk The reincarnation of Sup1, a cult FrenchCantonese bistro that opened in the early 2000s, 2Sup (“twenty” in Cantonese, in reference to the new address) brings back founder Vincent Wong’s penchant for mixing various cultural influences in lip-smacking dishes, alongside budget-friendly wine pairings. KINSMAN 65 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong kinsman.hk Styling itself as a Cantonese cocktail salon, Kinsman is Hong Kong’s first bar dedicated to championing the unique spirits derived from the city’s own backyard as well as the rest of China, all in a moody interior inspired by the films of Wong Kar-Wai. In the same vein, the food menu reinterprets Cantonese comfort food in unexpected ways. CHARCOAL BAR Shop OT G62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong lubuds.com Ex-Octavium head chef Bjoern Alexander has opened a modern grill with Lubuds Group, bringing open-fire gastronomy to Harbour City. Featuring aged meats and fresh seafood prepared over charcoal and wood flames, sharing dishes reign supreme here, packed with irresistible, smoky flavours. NOBU 2/F, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong noburestaurants.com Nobu Matsuhisa’s global empire makes a return to Hong Kong with the reopening of Regent Hong Kong. His signature blend of Peruvian influences with Japanese cuisine is readily apparent here, along with a panorama of Victoria Harbour that Nobu’s 50 other locations will have a hard time measuring up against. CARNA BY DARIO CECCHINI 39/F, Mondrian Hong Kong, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong book.ennismore.com You might have seen the mustachioed, Tricolore-wearing celebrity butcher Dario Cecchini on social media, and now you can try his bistecca as well with the opening of Carna in the new Mondrian Hong Kong, featuring atmospheric spaces designed by Joyce Wang. Panzanese steak, anyone?
Papillon in Kaohsiung was opened by Xavier Boyer, Tatler Dining’s Best New Chef of 2016 16 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Onwards and Upwards Years after they were recognised for their achievements at the Tatler Dining Awards, we check in with four award-winning chefs and the journeys they’ve embarked on By Wilson Fok THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 17
W inning a Tatler Dining Award is a reflection of a chef’s growth and artistry in their career thus far, as well as a harbinger of even more success to come. Over the years, we’ve watched previous winners of the city’s most prominent dining awards go on to global success. Some develop a loyal following, while many have built upon their accolades to accomplish even more feats in the world of gastronomy. As we celebrate 40 years of the Tatler Dining Guide in Hong Kong, we’re also revisiting four Tatler Dining Award-winning chefs from previous years for a glimpse of what this year’s winners can expect in their future. Daniel Calvert Best New Chef, 2018 It was the mille-feuille Daniel Calvert created for Belon that captured the heart of many a diner, and rightfully so: precision is in Calvert’s blood, which, combined with his knack for culinary science and artistry, easily made his thenbrief tenure at Belon a frontrunner for the Best New Chef title at the Tatler Dining Awards in 2018. Naturally, Calvert’s accolades didn’t stop there—the next year, he led Belon to its first Michelin star, and in July 2021, he moved to Tokyo to open Sézanne at the Four Seasons Hotel in Marunouchi. In two years’ time, the restaurant has garnered two Michelin stars while placing second at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023. For Calvert, it all began with a supposedly six-month stint as sous chef at Belon that unknowingly turned into five years. “Tatler Dining’s Best New Chef Award was the first accolade to honour our work at Belon,” he recalls. “It kicked things off, and everything became easier when more people came to check out what we were doing at the restaurant.” The chef is the first to admit that the award was not a personal feat. “It’s great for the team, really. Awards attract new staff and new guests, and we build relationships that way. Awards also keep people following what we do, as well as spread the word. They are an outcome of the good work we do every day, sans heavy marketing. We earn the recognition by being the best at what we do.” Despite the success that followed Belon, Daniel Calvert made a conscious decision to leave Hong Kong to move to Japan to eventually open Sézanne in 2021. “At Sézanne, we scraped every bit of Belon from it,” he says. Today, the fine-dining establishment bears little resemblance to his Hong Kong workplace. On the menu, premium fruit, vegetables and seafood sourced from around Japan are transformed into climatic showstopper courses, with Calvert’s meticulous eye for detail helping to realise the true potential of each ingredient. Calvert’s time in Hong Kong also reminded him of a different side to being a chef—the importance of building relationships outside the restaurant. These relationships have evolved into some of the closest bonds and friendships for the chef, and have subsequently followed him to Japan. As ever, he is relentlessly forward-looking. “I’m proud of what I accomplished at Belon but I also did not want to dwell on past successes— especially when it comes to building something new.” WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Fabrice Vulin Best New Chef, 2015 “To be honest, when I got [Tatler Dining’s Best New Chef] award I had just worked at Caprice for a year, so to get this award was not a personal victory,” says Fabrice Vulin of his 2015 win. “I only got there because I had a team that could help me reach it.” Today, the former chef de cuisine of Caprice holds the role of corporate executive chef role at the Sofitel hotel group in Morocco, though it’s no understatement to say that fine dining runs in his blood. Before arriving in Hong Kong in 2013, he had wrapped up a three-year stint at AnneSophie Pic’s Maison Pic in Valence, France. Following in the footsteps of his decorated predecessor, Vincent Thierry, was never going to be an easy feat— and being in Hong Kong for the first time professionally didn’t help either— but winning the award was a vote of confidence to continue what he did best as Caprice’s frontman, recalls Vulin. “The award certainly rewards your efforts in the kitchen. For a French chef who works abroad, it honours your daily work, the choices you make for yourself and the team, and it was a blessing to be recognised for the work I did for one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world.” THE TATLER DINING GUIDE That’s not to say that the pressure eased off after his win. “Taking up a new role often requires a learning curve, but in a high-profile restaurant such as Caprice, you have to be extra diligent in learning the codes of practice and eating habits of your guests. The most challenging part, I found, was delivering the right culinary message across all of the menus I designed, in order to develop my signature at Caprice.” After three years at Caprice, Fabrice Vulin continued his Asian tour at The Tasting Room at City of Dreams Macau, where he spent the next three years refining his French seafood-driven cuisine. His current Moroccan post sees him managing the food and beverage programmes for six hotels under the Sofitel group; yet to this day, Vulin still holds his time in Hong Kong close to his heart. “Hong Kong has this effervescence that suits it so well. The city is consistently deserving of global talents—who wouldn’t want to eat in Hong Kong, with a gastronomic culture so diverse and citizens who never stop thinking about food and wine? That’s a miracle we can all appreciate.” 19
Nicolas Lambert Best Pastry Chef, 2016 and 2018 You may remember him as the two-time winner of Tatler Dining’s Best Pastry Chef award in 2016 and 2018, but Nicolas Lambert’s talent goes beyond what we’ve given him credit for. Despite being born into a family of boulangers and patissiers in Epinal, France, Lambert’s first time in a professional kitchen came when he started at Caprice. “I only spoke two languages—French and pastry—but in relocating to Hong Kong, I had to quickly learn English and some Cantonese to survive in the kitchen. It was my first position as pastry chef in a Michelin-starred restaurant where you aim for perfection and beyond. It held a pivotal role in moulding me into who I am today.” As the first person to win Tatler Dining’s Best Pastry Chef title twice, Lambert has taken to heart the many benefits of the honours. “When I received my first award, I felt like I had been at the restaurant for a lifetime. It is more about the effort you exert rather than the time you spend. It validated everything our team worked for.” The second trophy, he recalls, was different. “It was proof that I was heading in the right direction in pastry, and that I could adapt and appeal to the local palate. It 20 became a guiding beacon that reaffirmed that I was true to my art form—something I have carried with me ever since.” After Caprice, Lambert went on to become the executive pastry chef at the Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace in St Petersburg, Russia for three years. Today, he’s based in sunnier climes, as the senior executive pastry chef looking after the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre. Taking on responsibilities beyond plating desserts and pastry making, Lambert now looks after a team of 24 chefs. He splits his time between the kitchen and overall planning and management; but he takes it all in his stride. In Dubai, his newfound adaptability has led him to designing an evolving afternoon tea based on seasonality, a line of wedding cakes and even a Ramadan cake with local flavours. “Thanks to my time in Hong Kong, adapting to a new city and its culture has become an easy feat. I start with researching the people and their dining habits and preferences before I develop a proper signature to convey my style while satisfying their palate.” WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Xavier Boyer Best New Chef, 2016 “Nobody will ever deny that recognition and awards don’t boost the ego. All chefs have egos to feed, but I learnt to look beyond, towards personal growth, because we cannot cook in a restaurant by ourselves,” admits Xavier Boyer, named Tatler Dining’s Best New Chef in 2016. “The award gave me recognition for being able to do my job well, but that also means running the team well, presenting my vision properly and helping our guests understand where we come from.” The native of Montpellier, in the south of France, had only joined Gaddi’s at the storied Peninsula hotel in the same year as his win, but he brought with him 16 years of experience at various restaurants by Joël Robuchon, including in Paris, New York City, London and, just before Gaddi’s, Taipei. At The Peninsula, Boyer drew heavily from his French culinary training, although the contemporary remit of Gaddi’s allowed the veteran chef ample room to express himself in lighter, more artistic dishes that are anathema to the butter-rich dishes most people view as “classic” French cuisine. Cue creative plates such as vanilla and citrus gelée paired with Dover sole, Earl Grey-infused carrot mousseline with sea urchin, and Brittany crab rolled with avocado atop blood orange gelée. After five years helming Gaddi’s, Boyer eventually returned to Taiwan where, after a brief stint at the Regent Taipei, he opened Papillon, his fine-dining restaurant at the TAI Urban Resort in Kaohsiung, Taiwan. Boyer considers Papillon his most personal project to date: “It takes a lot of effort for a caterpillar to become a butterfly, and even then, the life of a butterfly is fleeting. To me, Papillon represents my take on cooking—every dish requires a long time and much effort from idea to execution. While we may lose our way on the journey, we never forget the memories these dishes bring. Papillon is about the memories we create together.”
Hong Kong Calling 22 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Colibri Jimenez IMAGE RONNIE CHUA/ GETTY IMAGES (STREET) On a mission to promote and preserve authentic Mexican cuisine, Jimenez, of Netflix’s The Final Table fame, held a four-day pop-up at Carlyle & Co in November 2023 With travel restrictions coming to an end, 2023 marked the return of international chefs to Hong Kong in a big way—with unique pop-ups, exciting four-hands events and just about every culinary collaboration you could think of shaking up the city’s dining scene. We spoke to some of the F&B luminaries who visited from across the world last year to discover how things have changed and what inspired and impressed them most in Hong Kong this time around By Rachel Read THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Hong Kong is all about good food! Since my last visit, the dining scene here has evolved with much more creativity, diversity of palates and authentic flavours. In such an international city, you have to take great care of the intensity of flavours that really evoke the essence of your country and cuisine. There’s a real passion among this city’s industry and clientele that inspires me—the same kind of dedication and commitment that inspires me to promote Mexican cuisine. I also appreciate that there are now a growing number of conscious chefs who take sustainability and ethics seriously, an aspect that really resonates with me. 23
Michihiro Haruta The chef-owner of Tokyo’s Crony visited for a four-hands dinner with Simon Rogan at Roganic in June 2023 Hong Kong is such a fun city and has a great food culture. It was interesting for me to see how Roganic combines Asian ingredients with European style. One of my favourite dishes was their yellow chicken from Hop Wo Ho poultry, where the chefs mixed local ingredients with their own culinary backgrounds. It was also great to see traditional Cantonese technique in action at Duddell’s; I loved their honey-glazed barbecued pork and crispy fried chicken. Analiese Gregory An avid forager and diver, Tasmanian chef Gregory cooked at Swire Properties’ annual sustainable dining event, The Great Farm Feast at Taikoo Place, in November 2023 I was inspired by so many flavours and ingredients in 24 Hong Kong and brought plenty back home for me to cook with—including aged tangerine peel, 20-year-old pu’er tea, aged Shaoxing wine, preserved olive vegetables and homemade Sichuan pepper oil. Dishes like The Chairman’s flower crab with aged Shaoxing wine, the smoked soy chicken at Kin’s Kitchen and Shanghai Fraternity Association’s teardrop peas made a huge impression on me too; they’ll be living in my dreams for a while. dishes for Feuille; bringing inspiration from France to Hong Kong, and vice versa. Nokx Majozi David Toutain Acclaimed for his eponymous Paris restaurant, Toutain opened Feuille in Hong Kong last year, in partnership with ZS Hospitality Hong Kong’s dining scene is booming; there are more restaurants opening and the city’s beautiful surroundings are a sign to celebrate life. I feel more at home now that I’ve visited a few times; Hongkongers’ generosity is noticeable and I’m grateful to have a team that’s like family both in the kitchen and front-of-house. I love the city’s wet markets—things are so fresh and vibrant, and the seafood here is divine. We’re already working on some Hong Kong-inspired dishes to go on the menu in Paris, and it’s the same when creating The head pie maker at Holborn Dining Room’s The Pie Room in Rosewood London held culinary masterclasses at Rosewood Hong Kong to celebrate its fourth anniversary in March 2023 This was my first visit to Hong Kong and I was amazed by all the unique dining experiences here, from street food to Cantonese dim sum to international high-end cuisine. I was especially inspired by Hong Kong’s classic dish of baked pork chop rice: a tender pork chop nestled on a bed of fried rice, topped with tomato sauce and covered with a blanket of melted cheese. It’s full of surprises with its layers of hidden gems. It was so delicious that as soon as I was back in London, I had to make it for myself. It’s become my comfort food to share with friends and family; I’ve even made a version with chicken for those who don’t eat pork. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Fuchsia Dunlop The renowned Chinese food expert and writer helped develop the latest menu at Grand Majestic Sichuan It’s been encouraging to see Hong Kong’s dining scene recovering its old vitality after the pandemic, and also to see various chefs taking a fresh, innovative look at one of the greatest Chinese cuisines: that of Cantonese food. I always find so much to inspire me when I visit; it was great to learn more about The Chairman’s approach to cooking when I interviewed Danny Yip for an article, and I really enjoyed Vicky Lau’s surprising and delicious fusion of Chinese soy culture and French cooking at Mora. Besides that, I always find inspiration in the meticulous craft of some old Hong Kong favourites; I found myself writing pages in my notebook about a very simple but superb lunch at Mak’s Noodle. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Mingoo Kang The chef-owner of Seoul’s Mingles returned for several collaboration at his Hong Kong outpost, Hansik Goo, over the course of 2023 In terms of how Hong Kong has changed since my last visit, it’s the same all over the world—domestic demand for dining is decreasing and everyone is travelling. Despite this, on my most recent trip I was inspired by my meal at Mono. Seeing sophisticated French techniques added onto a base of LatinAmerican cuisine was very impressive and delicious. LG Han The chef-owner of Singapore’s Labyrinth visited for culinary collaborations at Ando and Roganic in September 2023 Hong Kong’s dining scene has definitely become more exciting and diverse since I last visited, with a slew of new restaurants and bars offering different concepts and cuisines from around the world—with even the city’s “veterans” levelling up. Hong Kong has always been a great inspiration from a culinary perspective; the sustainability angle to our Roganic event meant it was great to visit the city’s markets and draw inspiration from local produce such as kuruma ebi baby shrimp and local yellow chicken. Meanwhile at Ando, it was all about our friendship, which inspired the co-creation of an awesome collab dish: the bak kut teh chawanmushi, which was so wildly popular that it’s now on my menu. Anne-Sophie Pic The legendary chef behind France’s Maison Pic launched Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic in Hong Kong last year Opening a restaurant in Hong Kong—some 30 years after I last visited— has been an opportunity to continue my exploration of Asia, which holds a special place in my heart. Asia has always been a great source of inspiration for me; I love its diverse and dynamic array of flavours, herbs and spices, which I reappropriate and interpret using French culinary codes to showcase my vision of Asia. On this trip, I went to the wet market to discover more vegetables and aromatics, met a wonderful tea supplier and learned to cook XO sauce with a Chinese chef; these kinds of experiences bring me new insights. 25
Andrew Wong The chef-owner of London’s A.Wong visited Duddell’s for an exclusive dinner collaboration for its tenth anniversary in August 2023 I feel like local perceptions have changed and there’s a wonderful new energy within the chef community in finding ways to reconnect with traditional Cantonese classics. One thing that really stuck with me is the Cantonese obsession with the relationship between food and health. While Cantonese cuisine has always been healthy, this symbiosis hasn’t always travelled globally outside Hong Kong. The flavour combinations of dried proteins, seafood and fruits with herbs and fresh vegetables, together with mind-bogglingly intricate techniques, create an incredible variety of deliciousness. Hong Kong’s rich diversity of food cultures has always been amazing to me. On this recent trip, I noticed greater use of local produce and twists on traditional culture—for instance, the delicious sea cucumber spring roll at Wing. The friendships among the F&B community left quite an impression too: not only that they’re strong within Hong Kong, but that they also stretch across multiple borders to other Asian countries. One lovely occasion was Ta Vie’s three-Michelin-star celebration; you could feel the strong bonds within the community, and the amount of people that showed up was amazing, including many from overseas. I was honoured to be among them. Manu Buffara Angela Lai Formerly of Taiwan’s Tairroir, the 2011 winner of Asia’s Best Pastry Chef joined a six-hands collaboration at Whey with Barry Quek and JL Studio’s Jimmy Lim 26 Latin America’s Best Female Chef 2022 and founder of her eponymous restaurant in Brazil collaborated with Ando’s Agustin Balbi in June 2023 Queues begin to form before lunchtime and continue well after nightfall, with customers outside craning their necks to see the day’s options through the windows. No, it’s not a recent award winner or an Instagrammable bakery, but a simple little shop selling noodles with pork or duck. I noticed that these simple restaurants offering basic meals have become an unexpected trend in Hong Kong, a place famous for its epicurean spirit; traditional restaurants are on the rise too. I was also surprised by the number of international chefs arriving in the city, making its gastronomic scene very lively. Young Yang Park Hyatt Shanghai’s Chinese executive chef partnered with Grand Hyatt Hong Kong’s executive Chinese chef Chan Hon-Cheong for a unique culinary collaboration in October 2023 Hong Kong chefs are so dedicated, focused and meticulous in their quality control. I’ve always been a fan of dim sum and was especially impressed by One Harbour Road’s char siu bao. During my time as a guest chef there, I watched how the team skilfully handled the entire process—from making the barbecue pork to mixing it with the homemade sauce, then crafting the buns in the morning. On trying to make a bun myself, I soon realised that achieving its perfect half-open-top look was not as effortless as it seemed. Such craftsmanship is worthy of admiration and learning. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Kyle & Katina Connaughton Pam Soontornyanakij The chef-farmer couple behind California’s SingleThread Farms joined forces with Amber’s Richard Ekkebus for a sustainability-focused six-hands dinner in October 2023 Of course, it was great seeing both Richard’s global influences and local influences on Amber’s cuisine. We were also so impressed by the contemporary takes on local cuisine done at such a high level at The Chairman and Wing—their really fine work on small details, the depth of the food and the techniques used. The chef-owner behind Bangkok restaurant Potong joined forces with Vicky Lau for a collaboration at Tate Dining Room in May 2023 I believe Hong Kong’s dining scene is constantly evolving and in recent years, I’ve seen a growing focus on sustainability and a trend towards more casual and experiential dining. Personally, I’m always looking for new ways to incorporate heritage into my modern cooking techniques. On this trip, I visited Mora on Upper Lascar Row, where the city’s antique shops are located; the sheer variety of antique objects and artefacts on display was truly awe-inspiring. I was also impressed by the merchants’ knowledge and passion, and how old and Wing’s presentation of vegetables and use of dried seafood really interested and inspired us. But even the simple dim sum and casual roast goose we tried during our trip were of such high quality and level of execution. What was really inspiring, though, was the camaraderie between chefs at different restaurants; there was a real mutual respect and admiration that was great to see. This was evident in Amber’s kitchen as well— a blend of locals and chefs from all over the world working together in a real collective harmony. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn The chef-owner of Thailand’s Le Du opened his Hong Kong restaurant, Niras, last year While Hong Kong’s F&B industry, like everywhere else, is facing challenging times, I can still see the bright side. Everyone needs to be focused and pay attention to what they believe, but the city is blooming with new restaurants, bars and concepts. The thing that inspires me most in Hong Kong is its F&B community: everyone always helps each other and I find that very touching. Many chefs helped take me round the markets, so I could see and be inspired by local ingredients; for example, Vicky Cheng took me to see different kinds of dried seafood. Hong Kong has the best dried seafood markets in the world, and it’s something that’s unique to the city. Hopefully, one day I can incorporate these ingredients at Niras to create a mix of Thai and Hong Kong dishes. new co-exist together. This provided lots of inspiration for my new menu at Potong—I believe that we can pay respect to heritage but blend it with modernity at the same time. Hong Kong’s antique districts are a treasure trove of inspiration for chefs. 27
Our favourite places for all kinds of occasions and situations, at a glance Illustrations by Sindy Lau 28 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
United Nations Lunching on the Low Where to sample the further-flung corners of the world The best bang for your buck during the day Uma Nota Page 253 Roganic Page 247 Sep Page 272 Cruise Page 165 Auor Page 254 Cafe Bau Page 234 Embla Page 251 Moxie Page 244 Chaat Page 161 BluHouse Page 175 Buenos Aires Polo Club Page 252 Ciak In The Kitchen Page 179 Pondi Page 163 Kyoto Joe Page 206 Churchill’s Table Page 276 11 Westside Page 229 Francis West Page 232 Zoku Page 226 Mono Page 230 Veda Page 270 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 29
30 Meat Cute Ocean Prime Carnivores will love these meat-focused restaurants Where seafood is the name of the game The Steak House Page 265 Dolos Page 158 Fireside Page 166 Ronin Page 208 Birdie Page 194 The Praya Page 238 Enishi Page 197 Asaya Kitchen Page 172 Associazione Chianti Page 173 Sushi Haré Page 211 Beefbar Page 260 Lobster Bar & Grill Page 85 Grand Hyatt Steakhouse Page 262 Whisk Page 160 Wagyumafia Page 222 Plaa Page 268 Testina Page 189 Kam Tung Kitchen Page 97 I M Teppanyaki Page 201 Tempura Araki Page 217 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Shock and Awe Bite-sized China Where the interior has main character energy Where to sample the diversity of regional Chinese cuisines Magistracy Dining Room The Merchants Page 130 Page 86 The Dining Room Page 181 Cantina Page 176 Arbor Page 250 Estro Page 182 Ami Page 138 Falcone Page 183 Kaen Teppanyaki Page 203 Bo Innovation Page 233 Mott 32 Page 237 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Gold Garden Shanghai Cuisine Page 125 Jiangsu Club Page 128 Yong Fu Page 136 The Huaiyang Garden Page 296 Chef Tam’s Seasons Page 278 Xin Rong Ji Page 135 Golden Flower Page 288 The Legacy House Page 101 Liu Yuan Pavilion Page 129 31
Comfort on a Plate Cheek to Cheek When you just want to be wrapped up in a food blanket The places to impress your date La Vache Page 263 Octavium Page 186 Fiata Pizza Page 184 Racines Page 152 Posso Page 188 Perla Page 187 The Chinnery Page 84 Belon Page 140 Kamcentre Roast Goose Page 98 Estro Page 182 Sha Tin 18 Page 133 Feuille Page 144 Chesa Page 266 L’Envol Page 147 22 Ships Page 257 Arbor Page 250 The Baker & The Bottleman Page 249 Mosu Page 228 Megan’s Kitchen Page 105 Ta Vie Page 159 32 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Girl Dinner Hot Stuff The best female-led kitchens in the region For those who live for the heat Jean May Page 153 North Page 294 Tate Dining Room Page 181 Grand Majestic Sichuan Page 126 Enishi Page 197 Deng G Page 124 Ho Lee Fook Page 94 Feng Wei Ju Page 286 Barkada Page 137 New Punjab Club Page 162 Maison ES Page 150 Five Foot Road Page 287 Mora Page 155 China Tang Page 123 Little Bao Page 236 Mian Page 131 Chachawan Page 267 Cafe Malacca Page 255 Saffron Page 311 Samsen Page 269 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 33
Racine’s signature roast pigeon comes with pigeon liver and heart 34
Offal, once relegated to the sidelines of fine dining, is now back on the menu. In Hong Kong, five intrepid chefs find themselves slicing through culinary conventions to bring these forgotten cuts into the limelight once more By Fontaine Cheng ffal is not something new in Chinese cuisine. From slowly braised beef tripe to deep-fried swirls of pig intestine on sticks, these dishes, mostly born from necessity rather than desire, are rich in flavour and tradition. Yet for some, offal remains an acquired taste, often unfairly dismissed as mere scraps from a more rustic culinary practice. This, however, is where its allure lies, inviting connoisseurs and the curious to explore the depths of its unique heritage. Recently, as the culinary world has pivoted towards sustainability and noseto-tail eating, offal has found a new audience in contemporary restaurants. Often shrugged off as the less glamorous bits and bobs of an animal—think organs, bones, blood and everything else in between—these once-overlooked offcuts are finding their way onto menus spanning a number of cuisines, challenging palates and perceptions alike. At the forefront of this in Hong Kong is Testina, a restaurant named after the Italian word for “head” to reflect a philosophy that honours every part of the animal. Head chef Marco Xodo, who brings his experience from Trippa, one of Milan’s finest trattorias, to the city, allows his passion for offal to thrive on the menu, where he introduces dishes like homemade pappardelle with chicken offal ragù, veal 35
tongue with tonnata sauce, charcoal-grilled beef heart and, when available, sweetbread. There’s been a generational shift in attitudes towards offal, observes Xodo. “I think people stopped eating offal after the economic boom in the ’50s and ’60s, and we gradually lost the tradition of cooking it and having it on our tables. The new generation views offal as something weird and undesirable.” Still, the chef is encouraged by offal’s resurgence and while he admits that its preparation takes an incredibly long time—“It is easier to put a steak or tenderloin on the grill”—he remains hopeful that “people will open their minds and try it at least once without preconceptions”. Clockwise, from above: Beef heart, chicken offal pappardelle, both from Testina; taco lengua from El Taquero; chakundar gosht from Leela
In some cultures, offal is considered a staple, on par with any other meat, while others regard it as a delicacy. At El Taquero, executive chef Alejandro Ramírez Pérez offers a taste of Mexico with his taco lengua. “Beef tongue is widely used in Mexican cuisine,” he notes. Focusing on traditional cooking techniques while demonstrating the versatility of Mexican flavours, he pairs thinly sliced ox tongue, which has a light flavour and a crispy yet tender texture, with salsa verde, fresh coriander and lime. “I just want to bring this traditional flavour to Hong Kong diners,” says Pérez. Similarly, at modern Indian restaurant Leela, chef-owner Manav Tuli integrates 37
offal into dishes like chakundar gosht, which eschews the more traditional mutton for the richness of collagen in oxtail, and a flavourful bone marrow biryani. “To respect the animal, which has given its life to fulfil your hunger, is an integral part of our belief system,” Tuli says, highlighting the cultural significance of offal in Indian cooking. “That’s one of the reasons that dishes like keema kaleji (lamb mince and liver) or bheja fry (lamb brain) are such a big part of the Indian repertoire.” According to Tuli, offal is becoming more popular because “there is more awareness among the guests regarding health benefits and the abundance of nutrients in offal.” Organ meats are highly nutritious and an excellent protein source; liver is packed with vitamin A and kidneys with vitamin B12; while tripe and oxtail are also rich in collagens. “Also, a lot of great chefs are creating dishes that are fast becoming crowd favourites.” WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Clockwise, from left: Enishi’s shirako gyoza; Testina’s namesake pig’s head; bone marrow biryani from Leela It’s not all health benefits or textural intrigue, though, as chefs Adrien Castillo and Romain Dupeyre of Racines illustrate, presenting offal in a more refined light. Their signature dish, a roasted pigeon served with pigeon liver and heart, alongside foie gras-stuffed baby aubergine, is an elegant nod to their French roots and the philosophy of waste not, want not. “In France, it’s quite common to use offal in dishes,” says Dupeyre. “It is a cultural tradition that stems from oldschool recipes where offal would be used out of necessity to avoid food waste.” But it’s not all smooth sailing for offal, in Castillo’s opinion. “I believe that while offal has been enjoyed and appreciated by many people, there is a lack of good restaurants that serve offal dishes in a high-quality manner,” he says. “This might be one of the reasons why people tend to avoid it.” Despite Hong Kong’s affinity for Japanese cuisine, the acceptance of offal THE TATLER DINING GUIDE at Enishi, led by chef-owner Toru Takano, isn’t as straightforward as one might expect. Inspired by dim sum, Takano has chosen shirako, or fish milt, as a seasonal highlight for winter, encasing it in a gyoza wrapper in acknowledgement of its visual challenges. “Some guests cannot stomach shirako because it does not look nice, while some will accept it if it’s inside a gyoza,” he notes. However, Takano emphasises that Enishi’s approach isn’t merely about concealing the ingredient. “We do our best to have good relationships with our guests so that we can explain our culture and culinary traditions.” In Hong Kong, offal is not just an ingredient; it’s a symbol of culinary diversity and innovation. It also serves as a poignant reminder that no part of the animal is less noble than another. After all, it is about respecting the animal you have decided to eat and how culinary creativity can overcome all—even the wobbly bits. 39
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A look back at years of the Tatler Dining Guide On our ruby jubilee, we’re taking a moment to appreciate all that has happened since the first edition of our Guide was published in 1984, and how the city and its dining scene have changed since then By Gavin Yeung Photography by Zed Leets 41
The year is 1984. Leslie Cheung’s hit pop song Monica is blaring over the radio on every street corner; Donnie Yen has just made his acting debut in martial arts film Drunken Tai Chi; Margaret Thatcher is due to sign the SinoBritish Joint Declaration, sealing Hong Kong’s fate for the foreseeable future; and in English bookstores all across the British colony, a curious new publication is being carefully placed on shelves. Titled Hong Kong’s 100 Best Restaurants 1984 in bold red lettering, it is the very first edition of what you hold in your hands today, 40 years in the future. Hong Kong has transformed almost beyond recognition in the intervening decades, with the city weathering pandemics, social unrest, financial collapse and more—but if there’s any constant here beside change, it’s the unending appetite of its citizens for delicious food: whether it’s ox tripe or stinky tofu eaten out of polystyrene bowls, to boundary-pushing fine-dining assembled from the finest ingredients around the world. And through it all, the Tatler Dining Guide has been here for it, dutifully capturing a snapshot of the dining scene each year through thick and thin. Out of the 100 restaurants featured in that inaugural guide, a surprising 18 have survived to the present day, with the overwhelming majority found in grand old hotels like The Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental, Kowloon Shangri-La and the original Regent—think Gaddi’s, Mandarin Grill and Shang Palace; while many in the remainder have evolved into multi-venue brands such as Jade Garden, Tsui Hang Village and (the monumental, the eternal) Spaghetti House. Meanwhile, standalone restaurants like Amigo, Yung Kee and Fook Lam Moon have survived against the overwhelming odds by sticking to their principles. Of Amigo, the 1984 review reads: “Even the loos show great opulence!” Aside from noting which restaurants are still around, reading through old editions of the Best Restaurants Guide (as it was then known) is also a curious exercise in shifting tastes amid the historic events of yesteryear. In the 1997 guide, which was produced against the backdrop of a monumental power shift in Government House, Liam Parker wrote: “When dining out in Hong Kong, it is difficult to look out of place; it is harder still to feel out of mode. Taipans still drop into late-night dai pai dongs after closing gigantic deals, and freelance nobodies chalk up five-course ‘entertainment’ bills to deduct against taxes.” As Hongkongers began reacquainting themselves with mainland China, the 2000 edition featured a concise guide to restaurants in Shenzhen, from an Islamic restaurant operated by Chinese Muslims from Qinghai, to a “vast, ostentatious” Chiu Chow restaurant featuring a “quasi-erotic” theme, where an in-house troupe of female 42 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
The many forms that the Tatler Dining Guide has taken since 1984 dancers would discard their garments on an extendable stage in the bar room. Writes Roger Cave: “Hong Kong gourmets who cross the bridge to sample the authentic regional cuisine visit for one principal reason: cost. Prices are considerably lower than in Hong Kong. Little English is spoken, but, for the most part, the welcome is warm.” Clearly, some things just never change. Frequently found in the editions published in the ’90s through to the 2010s are quaint maps of key dining districts like Central, Wan Chai and Tsim Sha Tsui— remember, this was a period before Google Maps—as well as coupons in the back of each book that you could cut out and present on your next meal out for a modest discount. The restaurant details for each venue also reflect the social mores at the time, detailing whether the establishment used MSG in their cooking and, up until the mid-2000s, whether cigars or pipes were allowed in the dining area. And, before the advent of search engines, a glossary of food terms was de rigeur, listing out the meaning of everything from mi krob (Thai crispy noodles) to Mulligatawny (Indian spicy bean soup). It’s heartening, too, to reach back through the years and find the leaders of our F&B scene today just getting their start in our pages. In 2010, a feature on the advent of molecular mixology detailed the penchant of Antonio Lai, then-resident THE TATLER DINING GUIDE barman of Nordic restaurant Finds, for using artificial, berry-flavoured caviar and Earl Grey foam in his cocktails—Lai would combine these techniques in the Earl Grey Caviar Martini when he opened Quinary in 2012. In the same edition, Gregoire Michaud, then the pastry chef at Four Seasons, peeks out from an advertorial on Movenpick ice cream. Today, of course, he runs a successful pastry empire in the form of Bakehouse. Which restaurants will still be featured in the Tatler Dining Guide of 2064, and what might readers of the future find charming about how we were dining out in 2024? Right now, it’s anyone’s guess—but as long as people still find comfort in food, and Hong Kong is still able to provide the cornucopia of cuisines that it is famed for, we’ll still keep on eating, drinking, writing about it all, and finding only the best for you to experience. Here’s to another four decades of the Tatler Dining Guide! Restaurants from the 1984 Guide that are still with us today Amigo Jade Garden Peking Garden Chesa La Taverna Shang Palace Fook Lam Moon Lai Ching Heen Spaghetti House Gaddi’s Mandarin Grill The Steak House Hugo’s Mistral Tsui Hang Village Jimmy’s Kitchen Nadaman Yung Kee 43
Luxury Chinese produce is making a comeback in a way that hasn’t been possible for generations, as terroir, tradition and logistics come together to thoroughly reinvent the culinary landscape across the vast country By Johannes Pong 44
Fresh, domestically grown ingredients galore at INT in Shanghai
A nyone with picky grandparents of a certain leisurely class who left Guangzhou for Hong Kong would have heard the common refrain: “This choy sum has no taste!” Or the recurring “This chicken has no chicken flavour!” If your grandparents were from Shanghai, multiply the culinary complaints by a factor of ten. Sure, luxury dried Chinese food products like abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw and bird’s nest are part and parcel of the repertoire of every Chinese restaurant worth its soy sauce. But as I’ve witnessed in postpandemic China, even more quotidian, domestically grown ingredients are making a comeback after decades of neglect, with new cultivars outstripping Japanese produce and contending directly with European ingredients. During a trip to celebrate Rosewood Guangzhou’s fourth anniversary, Doctor Henry Cheng Kar-shun, the patriarch of the New World Development empire, insisted that we stop by Foshan Golf Club for lunch before returning to Hong Kong. He wanted us to check out Chen Xiaolong, one of his favourite chefs from the Shunde region of Guangdong province. In a private dining room overlooking rolling green lawns and a lake, Chef Chen brought out that minimalist Cantonese classic: sliced, white chicken, simply poached and subsequently submerged in an ice bath for ideal succulence and crispness. It was the famed kuaifa gai, the organic “sunflower chicken” which I’ve heard my grandparents wax poetic about. The plump birds live in sunflower fields, feeding only on sunflower seeds and leaves. When the flowers start to wilt, farmers cut up the flower heads and mix them with the leaves for the chickens to eat. Just as freerange Iberian pigs are deeply rooted in the Mediterranean ecosystem, feeding predominantly on acorns in the dehesa (sparse oak forests) and acquiring a distinct flavour, the sunflower chicken’s diet of acidrich oleic and linoleic oils from sunflowers gives the Cantonese bird its signature crisp yellow skin and bones. Chef Chen confidently tells the servers to hold the accompanying purée of ginger and spring onion. “I want them all to taste the chicken first—as it is.” We took a bite 46 A meal at Ensue in Shenzhen begins with a map of Guangdong province, where each ingredient is traced to its origin and gasped. It was full of that “chicken flavour” sorely missed by our ancestors when they left Guangdong and settled for subpar poultry in Hong Kong. We were instructed to bite into and nibble on its brittle bone. The umami emanating from within was unbelievable. Chef Chen had merely poached the chicken in mineral water for 15 minutes, sans salt. All that profound flavour really was from the chicken itself. Nobody bothered with the ginger spring onion dip afterwards. Next was a bowl of chilled bitter gourd on ice, specifically Dading “Big Top” bitter gourds from Tanbian Village in Foshan. Its higher sugar content results in sweeter, crunchier melons (reputedly more potent at reducing internal heat). They’re picked at five in the morning and sent immediately to restaurants nearby. Chef Chen had sliced, blanched and marinated them in iced lemongrass water. Tender but crisp, they immediately trumped Taiwanese or Okinawan bitter gourds to my mind. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
A bubbling claypot came out with stewed beef brisket and Chinese radishes from the district of Gaoming, also in Foshan. Everyone gasped again after a bite. Brisket is always satisfying, but the sweet crystalline chunks of melt-in-your-mouth radish, lacking any fibrous strands, truly stole the show. Perhaps the quality lard and tallow helped with its unctuousness, but the buttery radish was clearly the star. Imagine that this doesn’t even qualify as one of the “Four Greats of Gaoming” (the local variety of rice, ginger, kudzu and a species of black goose). Gaoming was settled about 4,000 years ago. The temperate climate, ample rainfall and fertile Foshan soil created a radish that tasted superior to any heirloom Japanese daikon, even the Shogoin cultivar from northern Kyoto where the heavy snowfall allegedly produces the mildest of flavours. Different philosophies, I suppose, but I believe Japanese chefs would go gaga for a Gaoming radish in oden if they could ever get their hands on one. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE I’ve always said that China is like East Asia’s Roman Empire, except that it never splintered off into different European nations, instead remaining as one giant political entity. The country has been forecast to become the world’s largest economy by 2030, and for now, China has just surpassed the EU. Geographically, China is as vast as Europe, and I can only focus on the first-tier cities in the south in this story. What’s changed the culinary narrative is China’s efficient modern transport system, where quality ingredients from all over the country can now be transported across the country at relatively low costs that don’t break the bank, and with breakneck speed and efficiency. It’s a fruitful and felicitous combination of Chinese pragmatism and obsession with good eating. It’s as if one can get the best Ibérico or Parma ham, or a fine Comté or fresh French artichokes in London without paying cutthroat London prices—or having access to fresh affordable Portuguese seafood from the Atlantic in Poland. Seasonality is obviously de rigueur in the world of gastronomy, but according to Chinese culinary culture, it’s not just a suggestion but the law. Seasonal foods are “commanded by time” (shiling) in Chinese, and the saying “bù shí bù shí” (not in season, don’t eat it) is a firm reminder that the finest produce has to be relished in delicious harmony with the season according to the agricultural lunar calendar. During the late summer, all sorts of fungi from Yunnan arrive in major cities all over China. In Shanghai and Hangzhou, I came across many dishes featuring the intensely savoury and chewy ganba fungus (Thelephora ganbajun). This species, found only in the soils under pine trees in Yunnan, displays a pleasantly pungent aroma and flavour of concentrated pine. I savoured a simple filigréed stir-fry of ganba with assorted fungi at Hangzhou House (on Amanfayun grounds but not affiliated with the hotel), which serves rustic yet refined farmhouse-style cooking. And at INT, a fun neo-bistro and natural wine bar in Shanghai, we were served moreish chicken wings stuffed with ganba fungus and duck liver, as well as a piping hot pizza of pine mushrooms (more popularly known by their Japanese moniker, matsutake) and the deeply fragrant ganba. 47
Perhaps no other high-end restaurant better pays tribute to quality Chinese produce as the sexy and sensibly progressive Ensue on the 40th floor of Futian Shangri-La in Shenzhen. Chef Christopher Kostow, awarded three Michelin stars while at Meadowood, California, initiated tasting menus that fused a farm-to-table ethos with premium local ingredients from Guangdong, like 120-day-old Qingyuan chicken (the other famous Cantonese chicken) baked in sourdough. The restaurant has since expanded to showcase ingredients from all over the country. A map of China is displayed ceremoniously when the canapés come out, educating diners by highlighting the bounty from various regions of China. Every three months, a different kitchen team embarks on an ingredient-sourcing excursion. Olive oil from Chengdu, flour from Beijing, Wagyu from Dalian, cacao from Hainan—the list goes on. Sous chef Mung Lam Ng and her team ferment their own soy sauce and garum with leftover sourdough, churn butter from Cantonese water buffalo milk, and create vinegars from lychee, peach and plum, and seasonally with Chinese waxberries (yangmei; Myrica rub) and watermelon. Ensue’s winter menu also featured a Yunnan truffle shio koji. Yunnan has cultivated truffle for years, but in 2019, its farmers began to cultivate avocado and supply it to Ensue. Don’t expect hipster avocado toast at a restaurant inspired by Napa; the quintessential Californian ingredient is sliced thinly and paired with steamed whiting, topped with a cream of fish maw and Chinese caviar. Hearts of palm and black-skinned radishes are also produced by a Yunnan farm exclusively for the restaurant. While spicy Sichuan cooking still reigns supreme outside of China (and in much of China too), the “it” cuisine among Chinese foodies seems to be Chaozhou (also known Clockwise, from top: Rice cooker baked pigeon from Rosewood Guangzhou; steamed whiting at Ensue; fresh crown conches from Shantou at Amazing Chinese Cuisine 48 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
as Chiuchow or Teochew) at the moment. Like Cantonese cuisine, it is seafood-driven and delicately rendered, yet the Chaozhou approach to cooking packs more of a punch with its flavour profiles. It suits the modern Chinese palate and aligns with the overall trend for healthier eating, being less heavyhanded in the use of oils, chillies and spices. The coastal Chaoshan area (Chaozhou, Shantou and Shanwei) in the eastern part of Guangdong keeps very distinct culinary traditions. The fisherfolk have always enjoyed raw marinated seafood—“Chiuchow ceviche” as I call it—and steamed fish and crabs served chilled. When they started immigrating to Southeast Asia and dominating the dried seafood and bird’s nest trade, refined versions of Chaozhou cuisine began to develop. In Guangzhou, the place to be for late-night supper is Boss Zhou, a modern Chaoshan bistro playing rock and blues but offering traditional raw marinated crabs, clams, conch and whelks paired with congee. The “Zhou” in the English name THE TATLER DINING GUIDE refers to congee, as well as proprietor Nathan Chow’s last name, I gather. His family have always been fisherfolk and he gets the choicest catch from Shanwei, 300 kilometres from Guangzhou. I’ve never come across a congee coloured a shade of dark mocha before. Chow reveals that it’s made using chaipo, the humble Chaoshan-style preserved radish that’s usually diced and tossed into omelettes, quick congees or fried rice for the flavour and crunch. But the ones he uses for his rice porridge are aged for more than 20 years. The oils of a glossy, black vintage chaipo dye the rice a chocolate colour and impart a deep umami. In Shanghai, the first Michelin-starred Chaozhou restaurant, Amazing Chinese Cuisine, serves high-end contemporary Chaoshan fine dining. Uncompromising in quality and in his adherence to Chaoshan culinary traditions, chef-owner Du Jianqing sends weekly requests for the famed Puning tofu produced by a couple in the town of Puning on the west rim of Chaoshan Plain. The fresh artisanal beancurd is transported every week, via truck from Guangdong to Shanghai. When I asked about which luxury ingredient was causing a stir at the moment, everyone, from Du to Bill Feng of Rosewood Guangzhou’s Lingnan House to Mike Liu, the restaurant manager at Ensue, seemed to mention the fresh crown conches, giant sea snails from the Chaoshan area. Indeed, it’s currently one of the most expensive seafood items in China. Sun-dried conch has always been one of those dried seafood mainstays for Cantonese tonic soups, but fresh Chaoshan conch exhibits a perky, chewy crunch with a delicate, briny sweetness. Such a clean, premium ingredient does not ask for much culinary conversion—it’s either served raw as sashimi, grilled over open fire or swiftly stir-fried. Once upon a time, only the ultra-rich and powerful like the imperial consort Yang Guifei could get fresh lychees from Guangdong transported to Xi’an for her pleasure. Nowadays, first-rate seasonal produce from all over China can be enjoyed by most well-to-do urban Chinese in the first-tier cities. China’s sophisticated gastronomic heritage is resuming after almost a century of slumber. 49
In 2024, we’ve made significant changes to the way the Tatler Dining Guide is assembled, for a more equitable representation of Hong Kong and Macau’s vibrant dining scene T his year, the Tatler Dining Guide has taken on a whole new format by including more restaurants and more input from our panellists. Rather than sending individual reviewers to restaurants for physical reviews, our panel of industry leaders and tastemakers were responsible for nominating and voting to help us arrive at this year’s Top 20 lists for Hong Kong and Macau, a collection of the year’s most interesting, IMAGES GETTY IMAGES How We Do It impactful and inspiring restaurants. The same panel also helped us determine the winners for the Best of the Year Awards. Experiences from our panel contributed towards our assessments of the restaurants listed in the guide. This has resulted in a growth in the breadth and diversity of restaurants featured in our guide; and more importantly, it has allowed us to expand our scope to cover many new markets across the region as we prepare to introduce the Tatler Best of Asia awards programme, our definitive list of the 100 top restaurants to visit, and the movers and shakers making a difference in dining culture writ large. Stay tuned to TatlerAsia.com to view the full list when it is unveiled later this year.
TATLER DINING Best of the Year Awards
Chef of the Year Vicky Cheng Under Vicky Cheng’s leadership, VEA and Wing are realms where the ordinary becomes extraordinary. Each visit brings complex narratives to the table, brilliantly celebrating Chinese heritage with an exciting freshness. Sure, Cheng boasts skill, experience and a creative flair that’s hard to match, but it’s his profound reverence for every ingredient, along with his relentless drive and work ethic, that has propelled him to culinary acclaim. This fervour overflows onto his Instagram, where he champions local, seasonal and often overlooked ingredients. Demonstrating that there’s more to success than talent alone, Cheng’s collaboration with a local charity and the creation of the Elizabeth Nutritional Fund see him using his platform to give back, particularly in supporting underprivileged children. 52 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Best Service Wing In the world of gastronomy, service stands as the cornerstone for all restaurants, but even more so at fine-dining establishments. Wing does this effortlessly—sweeping diners off their feet with its unparalleled service. The staff, not only friendly but astutely intuitive, have mastered the art of anticipation. They divulge the intricacies of each dish, offering a glimpse into the chef’s craftsmanship, and the thoughtful touch of pairing dishes with premium Chinese tea underscores the meticulous attention to detail that sets Wing apart. The essence of teamwork permeates throughout, acting as the secret sauce that positions this restaurant at the apex of hospitality. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 53
Rising Star Award Joris Rousseau, Feuille To successfully pull off a cuisine as exacting as plant-forward French fare, in a city far away from the parent restaurant and its founder, requires a chef who is equally exacting in their approach, which David Toutain seems to have found in executive chef Joris Rousseau for his Hong Kong outpost, Feuille. A former sous chef at 54 Yannick Alléno’s Cheval Blanc Courchevel and Pavillon Ledoyen, Rousseau’s cooking has earned praise for its inventiveness, with the Frenchman iterating upon dishes using local produce as the seasons change, all the while keeping in line with Toutain’s sustainability-minded ethos. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Local Champion Danny Yip, The Chairman Danny Yip is no stranger to our pages— indeed, he’s not even a stranger to the Local Champion award, which he last won in 2022. The reasons for which he’s been recognised for this year’s honour remain the same: championing Cantonese cuisine in entirely creative, entirely unexpected ways, and elevating the standing of Hong Kong’s food culture on a global stage. It’s no wonder, THE TATLER DINING GUIDE then, that The Chairman has become a de facto stop on every chef’s visit to the 852. Never one to rest on his laurels, Yip stepped out of his own comfort zone in the past year through four-hands collaborations with the likes of Sézanne, Le Beaujour and 102 House, exploring the magic that happens at the intersection of Cantonese gastronomy and the rest of the world. 55
Best New Restaurant Feuille In a city where the green tendrils of sustainable dining are yet to fully take root, this nature-inspired French restaurant has blossomed. Feuille, chef David Toutain’s first foray outside his native France, is piloted with finesse by executive chef Joris Rousseau. The menu makes use of locally grown produce along 56 with ethically sourced meat and seafood in dishes that never fail to astonish, delivering fresh, robust and sometimes unexpected flavours. It’s a toast to nature’s bounty, a celebration we hadn’t known was absent from our lives, but now, having tasted its vibrant flavours, find ourselves unable to forsake. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Best Pastry Chef Fabio Bardi, Estro Fabio Bardi, the creative talent behind Estro’s desserts, breads and pastries, has been turning heads and captivating taste buds with his inventive reinterpretation of Italian classics. Blending tradition with global inspiration, his approach brings together the rich flavours of his native Italy THE TATLER DINING GUIDE and the diverse cultures he’s encountered, resulting in creations that are as delectable to taste as they are striking to behold. Each bread basket is an irresistible siren call, and his pistachio gelato has become the stuff of legend, garnering a fervent and dedicated following. 57
Best Interior Design Kaen Teppanyaki Forty-Five, the multivenue dining destination found atop Gloucester House in Central, is veteran F&B interior designer Sean Dix’s most ambitious project to date, and among its five venues, Kaen Teppanyaki is the best showcase of Dix’s well-honed repertoire of design techniques, rounded corners and all. There’s a restrained luxury here in line with Zen tenets—flamed granite and hinoki timber recall Japanese rock gardens, giving the theatre of teppanyaki a sense of gravitas without the sombreness. Adorable sculptures and plateware by Japanese artist En Iwamura add cheeky levity to the dining experience, assuring diners to not take themselves too seriously. 58 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Best Sommelier Carlito Chiu, Ando This dapper wine director is always thirsty for knowledge and discovering underappreciated producers—the reason, perhaps, behind his stellar picks for the wine programme at Ando. The synergy between Chiu and Ando’s chef-founder Agustin Balbi is second to none, with the Hong Kong-raised sommelier having worked beside the Argentinian since the days of Haku. It’s such that his pairings always hit the spot with a menu that lies somewhere between Spain and Japan— a combination of flavours that is sure to test the mettle of any sommelier, yet Chiu handles the challenge with aplomb, with a wine list that champions everything from umami-rich cult Japanese wines to promising vineyards in China. THE 59
TA Hong Kong Top 20
Amber Having steered the Amber ship for 19 years now, culinary director Richard Ekkebus isn’t content with just cooking haute cuisine anymore, or even taking fine-dining into its next chapter of dairy-free gastronomy—as he did with the restaurant’s total revamp in 2019. Last year, the Dutch native girded Amber’s reputation as a centre for talent cultivation by way of a blockbuster 16-hands dinner that brought back the THE TATLER DINING GUIDE restaurant’s alumni from across the globe. This was followed shortly by a sustainability-minded collaboration with SingleThread Farms in California, which coincided with Amber’s own release of a lychee beer made using surplus local fruit. For all the criticisms of fine dining as being lavish and frivolous, just look to Amber for proof that the pursuit can also be a vehicle for positive change. 61
The Chairman With a culinary narrative deeply connected to its Cantonese roots, it’s no wonder that The Chairman is so well-loved in Hong Kong—making an online reservation here requires the swiftest of fingers whenever they’re made available. Under the stewardship of restaurateur Danny Yip and the prowess of chef Kwok KeungTung, the restaurant continues to advance as it unearths more local or forgotten ingredients, and collaborates with the likes of Sézanne in Tokyo and 102 House in Shanghai. The restaurant’s global acclaim is well-deserved, but its heart and home are undeniably in this city, making it a source of pride and a treasured dining experience for us all. Mono Crowned Tatler Dining’s Restaurant of the Year and bearer of the Best Service award in 2023, Mono continues to be a winning dining destination in Hong Kong. Chef Ricardo Chaneton leads the charge as a true ambassador of Latin American cuisine, constantly innovating while simultaneously contributing to the global culinary dialogue with singular verve. Whether it’s the chocolate they make from scratch using Ecuadorian cacao pods, the ever-popular sourdough workshops, or the overseas collaborations with Toyo Eatery from the Philippines and Meta from Singapore, Mono relishes in its unique position in Asia. 62 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Testina Testina has been an understated, dependable favourite among the city’s gourmands since it opened at the beginning of 2022, and its first entry into our Tatler Dining 20 list marks two years of continual refinement of its wheelhouse—namely Italian noseto-tail cuisine. With Hong Kong’s borders opening up, chef Marco Xodo THE TATLER DINING GUIDE has welcomed Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli, the founders of parent restaurant Trippa Milano, alongside a host of other prominent Italian chefs like Matteo Fontana of Da Vittorio Saigon and Federico Sisti of Frangente Milano. In doing so, Testina has categorically proven that offal deserves its place among other fine ingredients on white tablecloths around the city. 63
Caprice A bastion of French fine dining in Hong Kong, Caprice consistently graces the Tatler Dining 20 list. Guided by the culinary brilliance of chef Guillaume Galliot, it turns special occasions into memorable feasts, leaving diners longing for more reasons to celebrate. The experience is heightened by a wine and cheese selection that are every connoisseur’s dream. Last year, Galliot brought Caprice’s cuisine to Tatler Dining Kitchen alongside chef Vicky Cheng, while this year saw the restaurant celebrate Galliot’s 20th anniversary in Asia with a gastronomic jubilee featuring Julien Royer, Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, and Bruno Verjus. VEA At VEA, chef-proprietor Vicky Cheng approaches the study of FrenchChinese cuisine with similar conviction and zeal as when the restaurant first opened in 2015— except in 2024, he has the added benefit of nine years of experience at its helm, making possible such flashes of genius as geoduck paired with zucchini and lemon verbena, and aged preserved turnip accompanied by Noirmoutier potato and black truffle. There’s a sentimentality to the menus here: if you need convincing, just look for how guests’ faces light up at the sight of the traditional candy and coconut wrap, presented hawker-style. 64 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Hansik Goo Chaat Now in its fourth year, Hansik Goo continues to exemplify excellence in modern Korean cuisine, seamlessly navigating its latest transition from head chef Steve Lee to Park SeungHun without missing a beat. This isn’t just about maintaining standards; it’s about setting them. The cuisine, which is consistently executed with precision and elegance, continues to evolve—as evidenced by the third iteration of its signature samgye risotto—and beckons us to return time and again. Chaat may be under new leadership in the kitchen, with chefs Gaurav Kuthari and Dhiraj Kumar taking over the helm from our 2022 Chef of the Year, Manav Tuli, but a table here remains one of the hardest to snag in the city—a true sign of the high standards implemented across the board. Kuthari and Kumar haven’t rested on their laurels: new additions to the menu, like the melt-in-your-mouth lehsuni salmon tikka and the lamb chop nihari, are sure to win new fans over. We’re excited to see what Chaat’s next chapter holds. Estro New Punjab Club Dismiss any preconceived notions of what an Italian restaurant should be before stepping into Estro. Here, chef Antimo Maria Merone reimagines his Neapolitan heritage with a creativity that borders on sorcery, especially when it comes to pasta and seafood which, much like the restaurant itself, are a visual spectacle. An awardee in the Tatler Dining 20 list for two consecutive years, Estro elevated its game last year through collaborations with London’s Da Terra and Tokyo’s Bulgari Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, reinforcing its status as a purveyor of unique culinary experiences in Hong Kong. The boisterous flavours of the Punjab abound at this deeply personal restaurant to Black Sheep founder Syed Asim Hussain, whose roots trace back to the region. Chef Palash Mitra does a fine job of staying true to Punjabi flavours while at the same time daring to venture into unfamiliar territory, as he did with a Canto-Indian crossover with ArChan Chan of Ho Lee Fook at last year’s edition of Tatler Dining Kitchen. Other collaborations saw Mitra invite New York’s Dhamaka to Hong Kong, as well as flying over to London to cook at Carousel. A love of spice, it seems, knows no borders. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 65
Man Ho Chinese Restaurant In the realm of fine Chinese cuisine, Man Ho is as a steadfast ally, promising a reassuringly excellent experience time after time. Under the guidance and mastery of chef Jayson Tang, traditional techniques and recipes are honoured, showcasing a deep respect for authentic flavours as he fervently explores new 66 culinary territories. Collaborations with esteemed chefs including Chan Siu-kei and innovative minds like ArChan Chan from Ho Lee Fook, have played a pivotal role in elevating the restaurant’s cuisine further, as it continues to celebrate Chinese ingredients and reimagine Cantonese classics most deliciously. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Wing With a deep respect for Chinese culinary traditions, chef Vicky Cheng shines as an innovative spark and a masterful interpreter of classics, skillfully crafting dishes that embody the enduring elegance of Cantonese cuisine. At Wing, Cheng celebrates Chinese ingredients in all its glory, with standout creations including homemade century eggs with oysters and chilli sauce, and a crispy sea cucumber spring roll. His commitment to Cantonese cuisine extends beyond his kitchen, having collaborated with Mosu in Seoul to fuse Korean and Chinese flavours, and with Gaggan Anand in Bangkok, further expanding the horizons of Cantonese cuisine. Whey Barry Quek treads a fine line when it comes to balancing the punchy flavours of his native Singapore with the nuances of the cuisine of Scandinavia, where he trained; and he does so with grace, making Whey one of our panel’s favourites in this past year. In addition to this expert blending of influences, Quek continues to champion local ingredients in an homage to Hong Kong’s wealth of quality produce in dishes like threadfin with potato mousse and coconut XO, and threeyellow chicken done three ways. We keenly await the culture-spanning plates he’s due to cook up in the months ahead. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 67
Magistracy Dining Room For that priceless feeling of being spirited away to another era, many things have to come together in perfect unison: the setting, the service, the food and the details. Magistracy Dining Room, the jewel in the crown of Black Sheep Restaurants, gets this right, foremost thanks to its aweinspiring setting in the grandiose courtroom of the former Central Magistracy in Tai Kwun. And don’t be fooled by the seemingly traditional British cuisine on offer here: executive chef Matthew Kirkley brings his expertise and eye for precision to age-old recipes to elevate them to a higher plane altogether. Arcane Shane Osborn’s flagship restaurant isn’t the flashiest or the most assertive, but that’s because it doesn’t need to be. His culinary ethos at Arcane is quietly confident, built up over the course of a decade this year, centred around the core tenets of freshness, sustainability and unpretentious flavours. Arcane has cultivated a coterie of regulars, but remains as approachable to first-time diners as ever, slowly but surely converting them to the beat of locavore cuisine. “As consumers,” Osborn says, “we all have the power to affect change. And it starts with what you choose.” 68 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Tate Dining Room Ho Lee Fook There are a number of self-proclaimed French-Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong, but few are able to execute with the same finesse as Vicky Lau at Tate Dining Room. An artful eye and a steady hand are the secrets behind Lau’s fanciful creations, which include a tofu orb encasing fresh crab and caviar, and the signature pigeon pithivier. Wine pairings are perfectly matched to the lightness of the cooking here, with each meal presenting a nuanced portrait of femininity expressed through the medium of food. Settling into her third year in the role of head chef, ArChan Chan’s growing confidence at the helm of Ho Lee Fook is becoming ever more apparent. Cue a riot of colours, smells and flavours in Chan's masterful interpretation of Cantonese cuisine, replete with the requisite amounts of wok hei, or breath of the wok, especially in dishes like Chan’s signature stir-fry king. The excellent dim sum brunch on weekends also showcases the breadth of expertise readily available in the kitchen. Meanwhile, boisterous service and punchy interiors consistently make the tables here some of the hardest to book in the city. Arbor Neighborhood Finnish chef Eric Räty plays a fascinating game of culinary Twister at Arbor, deftly blending Nordic and Japanese cuisines with creativity and meticulous precision. Expect to be wooed by multicourse tasting menus, where Nordic sushi meets a show-stopping pigeon dish, and brioche so fluffy that it practically levitates. Räty’s interest for Asian cuisines has also sparked collaborations with esteemed establishments such as Tokyo’s Hommage and Osaka’s La Cime, positioning Arbor at a pivotal point where cultures converge to create something extraordinary. Chef-restaurateur David Lai isn’t one for playing it safe. His menu is a daily carousel of surprises—think homemade aged bottarga with persimmon or Chiuchow marinated foie gras with pickled onions. Yet amidst these flights of fancy, the salt-baked chicken with rice remains a comforting constant. This year, Lai’s collaboration with JL Studio’s Jimmy Lim showcased how the finesse of fine dining can wonderfully match the ease of a bistro. At Neighborhood, each dish feels like a foray into uncharted territory, thrilling for both chef and diner alike. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 69
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Andō Restaurant of the Year, Tatler Dining 20 There’s storytelling, and then there’s Andō, a restaurant where tales are not simply told but savoured. Here, chef and co-founder Agustin Balbi weaves his life’s journey into a menu, steered by his Spanish and Argentine heritage and Japanese precision trained over years in Tokyo’s finest restaurants. Andō’s third year sees it perfecting this blend, in which Balbi’s mastery and innovation show no signs of slowing down. The service here mirrors the quality of food, with a wine programme expertly tailored by wine whisperer Carlito Chiu, featuring both hidden gems and renowned labels. This extends to Andō’s culinary collaborations, drawing in top talents from Shenzhen, Tokyo, Singapore, Brazil and beyond for events that solidify its status as one of Hong Kong’s most coveted dining destinations. But Andō’s story isn’t just about what’s on the plate. Its partnership with charity group More Good reflects a deeper, community-focused spirit, demonstrating that this restaurant is where you can partake in a story that spans continents, cultures and cuisines—each dish a pageturner in its own delicious narrative. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 71
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Chef Tam’s Seasons Certainly one of Macau’s most forwardthinking Chinese restaurants is the newest venture of culinary heavyweight Tam Kwok-Fung, where the 24 solar terms of the traditional Chinese calendar inform THE TATLER DINING GUIDE the ever-changing menu. Indeed, no visit will ever yield the same experience—so frequent are the hyper-seasonal updates that mark this restaurant as a hotbed of innovation. 73
The Huaiyang Garden Founded by revered Chinese chef Zhou Xiaoyan, The Huaiyang Garden hones in on its namesake cuisine— which originates from Jiangsu province and is known for its skilled use of vinegar and knifework—to much aplomb. Under the direction of head chef Xiao Fei, the restaurant explores the possibilities of Huaiyang cuisine as presented in a tasting menu, with the seasons of China’s midwestern coast providing ample inspiration for Xiao to apply his precise technique in an ode to the region’s culinary bounty. Pin Yue Xuan The pursuit of balance is not merely a culinary ambition at Pin Yue Xuan—it’s the very essence of the dining experience. From bespoke teapots of premium Chinese teas to a remarkable wine selection, every detail is curated to achieve harmony. Chef Darren Cheung’s international perspective on Cantonese classics further enhances this equilibrium, ensuring a highly personal encounter with the vibrant flavours of Cantonese cuisine. 74 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Five Foot Road Don’t expect protoypically fiery Sichuanese cuisine at Five Foot Road; instead, the milder flavours of Chengdu reign supreme here thanks to the nuanced cooking of chef de cuisine Yang Dengquan. Signature dishes oscillate between tradition and trompe l’oeil, while spice is handled beautifully in all its forms. No meal here is complete without a tea dance performance with the tea master and her impressively elongated teapot. Yí In Macau, few restaurants match Yí in captivating with both cuisine and ambience. The contemporary dining room, boasting panoramic views and sophisticated design, is a visual delight. The cuisine, perpetually featuring premium seasonal ingredients, is artfully presented, offering a luxuriously immersive and intimate culinary affair that lingers in memory. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 75
76 Lai Heen Guincho a Galera Celebrated for its innovative take on Cantonese cuisine, Lai Heen’s cuisine is a showcase of wonderful craftsmanship, with revamps on classics that inject dishes with new vitality. Complemented by exemplary service, the restaurant orchestrates a truly exquisite experience. As the highest Chinese restaurant in Macau, it’s only fitting that they elevate dining to new heights too. Guincho a Galera’s understated yet stylish interior sets the stage for an authentic Portuguese dining experience that also celebrates the richness of Macanese cuisine. Expect nothing less than the finest ingredients woven into signature dishes that are presented elegantly. Warm, attentive service adds to the inviting atmosphere, rounding off the creativity infused into traditional recipes. Feng Wei Ju Saffron Chef Chan Chek-Keong paints a vivid portrait of regional Chinese flavours at Feng Wei Ju. The cuisine is a masterpiece of balance and depth in which creativity is incorporated into time-honoured traditions with great consideration. From the bold spices of Hunan to the fiery creations of Sichuan, Feng Wei Ju takes diners on a deliciously enlightening expedition, one that leaves a lingering desire for more. In the serene setting of its surroundings, Saffron embodies the vibrant spirit of Thailand. Under chef Jan Ruangnukulkit’s guidance, each dish bursts with fresh, lively flavours, showcasing the depth of Thai cuisine. Beyond mere service, hospitality at Saffron is a true reflection of Thai warmth, enriching the dining experience with genuine care and authenticity. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Imperial Court At Imperial Court, chef Homan Tsui is the maestro of Lingnan cuisine, accumulating a string of accolades for his deft execution. Here, heritage is preserved with modern interpretations, representing the incredible diversity and evolving scope of Chinese cuisines. Served with a side of impeccable service, dining here feels like a VIP experience, with every bite demonstrating outstanding quality. Pearl Dragon Nestled within a tranquil atmosphere, Pearl Dragon presents Cantonese cuisine reimagined with a subtle yet distinctive flair for innovation. What’s more, their artisanal tea selection is a revelation, enhancing the overall experience. From timeless classics to inventive creations, this restaurant consistently delivers attentive service that rivals some of the best in Macau’s fine dining scene. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 77
Robuchon au Dôme Robuchon au Dôme certainly has an aura of the untouchable, thanks to the name as well as the (quite literally) elevated dining experience under the dome at the peak of the Grand Lisboa. Ever since Macau opened up again, Hongkongers are finding out that standards have not slipped one 78 bit over the course of the pandemic; and with Julien Tongourian at the helm (who also heads up L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong), it’s the kind of big-ticket gastronomy that diners are craving again— and which Robuchon au Dôme delivers in spades. WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Palace Garden In a city chock-full of visual extravaganza, Palace Garden still manages to stand heads and shoulders above thanks to a sprawling interior bedecked with the finest silks, crystal fixtures, lush foliage, vintage porcelain and even digital art canvases. The food by head chef Ken Chong matches the opulence of the restaurant with laboriously crafted dishes plucked from the annals of Jiang Taishi, a hugely influential figure in Cantonese cuisine. The Eight Theatricality might come as part and parcel of dining out in Macau, but The Eight takes it to the next level, with stagelike interiors that add to the gravitas of the cuisine on offer. The cooking more than holds its own, with executive chef Joseph Tse overseeing a menu of Cantonese flavours that utilise a globe-spanning staple of ingredients, as well as over 40 types of dim sum during the day, leaving no doubt as to the reason behind this restaurant's longevity. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 79
8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana At this sister restaurant of the Hong Kong original, chef Riccardo La Perna upholds the stellar standards of chef-founder Umberto Bombana with very much the same minimalist, seasonal philosophy towards Italian cuisine—as well as an unrestrained love for truffles, where each fungal specimen is regarded as having its own personality. The hand-rolled pasta and the wide-ranging wine list that drills down into Italy's native grape varietals completes a memorable dining experience. Alain Ducasse at Morpheus An ethereal dining experience is all but assured at the French maestro’s Macau outpost, where guests are enfolded in curtains of suspended glass, all within the awe-inspiring heart of a Zaha Hadid-designed structure. While Ducasse’s signature dishes can be found on the menu, the kitchen really shines when French techniques meet local produce, and vice versa. 80 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Jade Dragon Golden Flower This highly regarded restaurant certainly leaves a lasting first impression thanks to a wall of award plaques that greets diners at the entrance. Cantonese culinary traditions are elevated by executive chef Kelvin Au Yeung to new heights over a symphonic tasting menu, encompassing classics like Ibérico char siu barbecued with lychee wood and nourishing Cantonese soups, signifying what’s possible when the exemplars of the region’s produce are brought under one roof and transformed with precise technique. There’s Chinese haute cuisine, then there’s the fare at Golden Flower in Wynn Macau, where 31-year-old chef Zhang Zhicheng oversees a menu that represents the pinnacle of Tan cuisine, the Northern Chinese school of gourmet cooking where dried seafood dishes are laboriously crafted. In intricately layered creations that frequently venture into unexplored territory, Zhang expresses an understanding of flavour and texture that goes beyond his years. The Peking duck here, presented as a diamond, is worth a visit alone with skin so crisp that it shatters; while the slow-cooked abalone with crispy scallions is in a league of its own. Don Alfonso 1890 SW Steakhouse For the best in maximalist Italian dining, look no further than Don Alfonso 1890, the sister restaurant of Casa Don Alfonso in the newly opened Palazzo Versace. Even in bigger-than-life Macau, the Versace plates and wallpaper more than take a dinner here to heights that even the denizens of this casino city might find bewildering. Thankfully, the cooking shines not because of artifice, but because of impeccable sourcing and a respect for the seasons. What do you get when you combine some of the world's best cuts of meat, an impressive cocktail programme, and a spot of theatre? Certainly one of Macau’s most entertaining restaurants in the form of SW Steakhouse. Taking after the Las Vegas original, this Wynn Palace establishment ups the luxury a notch with swoon-worthy interiors, creative plates that go beyond just your average Chateaubriand, and stage performances on the half hour to keep you on your toes. THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 81
ATLERASIA Best Hong Kong Restaurants

BRITISH The Chinnery 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2825 4009 mandarinoriental.com MandarinOrientalHongKong mo_hkg TATLER SAYS Time stands still in The Chinnery. Perhaps it’s the handsome wooden panelling or the curve of the upholstered armchairs, but retreating into this enclave of yesteryear feels that much like stepping into a time capsule (albeit without the exclusionary menonly edict; that’s been nixed since 1990). On the menu, it’s no-frills pub fare: fish and chips, bangers and mash, and a stunning chicken tikka masala, all executed to the exacting standards expected of any Mandarin Oriental outlet. There’s also one of the world’s most extensive collections of single malts behind the bar, should you wish for several fingers instead of a foamy Guinness. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Bangers and mash Fish and chips Rogan josh PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,100 84 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
BRITISH Lobster Bar & Grill Level 6, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2820 8560 shangri-la.com lobsterbarhk lobsterbarhk TATLER SAYS Island Shangri-La’s nautical institution has lost none of its elegance in the threeplus decades it’s stood as Admiralty’s favourite seafood bar. Nostalgia, it appears, tastes even better with time, and even better yet when it’s cocooned within a setting so unabashedly old school. You don’t come to the Lobster Bar & Grill for anything effusively novel; that’s simply not the point. You come for the seafood towers, the gargantuan lobsters, the famous Thermidor and, while nursing a fabulous Vieux Carré recommended by a suave bartender, you settle in and consider the years of life and laughter that must’ve passed through the very room you occupy. Then, you ask for just one drink more. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Lobster thermidor Beef Wellington Grilled bone-in rib of beef PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 85
BRITISH Magistracy Dining Room Tai Kwun, 1 Arbuthnot Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2252 3177 themagistracyhongkong.com magistracydiningroom magistracydiningroom TATLER SAYS Oozing Old World glamour and charm, Magistracy Dining Room is housed in a painstakingly refurbished heritage judicial building within the former police station and prison grounds of Tai Kwun. Now completely revamped—a feat that reportedly cost over HK$100 million—the glorious space is a dream for special occasions. Here, you can tuck into thick slabs of aged prime rib with all the trimmings, amazing seafood platters with caviar, and heart-stopping classic British desserts like the iconic sticky toffee pudding. The Botanical Garden next door offers a wide range of gin and tonics and other refreshing cocktails in a leafy, relaxed setting. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Slow-roasted aged prime rib Dover sole meunière Quality Chop House confit potatoes AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2024 • Best Interior Design, 2023 • 86 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,200 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE The Chairman 3/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2555 2202 thechairmangroup.com thechairmanrestaurant thechairmanrestauranthk TATLER SAYS No trip to Hong Kong is complete without a booking at The Chairman, whether you’re a famed chef or an avid foodie—though scoring a table is another matter entirely. If you do, you’ll be welcomed into the homey surroundings of proprietor Danny Yip’s restaurant, which he designed to resemble his own abode, replete with his personal collection of Chinese cookbooks. Though served family-style, the dishes are anything but simple—with the likes of camphor woodsmoked goose, slipper lobsters poached in rice broth, freshwater crab roe with pomelo skin, and the signature thick-cut char siu arriving in their final form after dozens of tests, in a method bordering on obsession. Because of this, guests are amply rewarded with flavours that have never existed before in the Cantonese repertoire, but taste like they’ve been around for eons. SIGNATURE DISHES • AWARDS: Impact Award, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2019-2020, 2022-2024 • Local Champion, 2020, 2022 • Restaurateur Of The Year, 2020 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 • • Steamed flower crab with aged Shaoxing wine, fragrant chicken oil and flat rice noodles Thick-cut Chairmanstyle char siu Camphor woodsmoked goose 87
CANTONESE Demon Celebrity South China Building, 1 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2838 6629 thedemoncelebrity.com thedemoncelebrity TATLER SAYS When chef Cheng Kam Fu’s renowned Celebrity Cuisine shuttered its doors amid the pandemic, ravenous fans were in despair: where else could they savour the exquisiteness of his chicken wing stuffed with bird’s nest? The answer came in a cosmic collision between two star-strewn chefs, with what became Demon Celebrity. Combining the “Demon Chef” Alvin Leung’s innovative signatures with the comforting favourites of Fu Gor (as Cheng’s regulars call him) alongside some inspired collaborations, like scallop and conpoy-stuffed shishito peppers and foie grasfilled lotus root, the resulting menu reads like a brand-new echelon of Cantonese cuisine. It certainly tastes like it. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Lobster with sticky rice ball stuffed with crab roe Umami sweet potato noodles with sea cucumber Stuffed chicken wing with bird’s nest PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 88 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Duddell’s 3/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2525 9191 duddells.co duddellshk duddellshk TATLER SAYS Whether you visit for its famed weekend free-flow brunch, an alfresco cocktail on the popular terrace or maybe a dim sum feast, Duddell’s retains its appeal more than a decade after opening. Few venues serve Cantonese classics in such elegant surrounds, with design elements that match the plates in creativity. Standout dishes include crispy chicken wing stuffed with glutinous rice, braised pork belly with taro, and steamed garoupa with egg white and 20-year Huadiao wine—a classic since day one. The first-class drinks programme ensures that meals often last longer than you had intended. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2016-2017 • Best Interior Design, 2014 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Steamed grouper with egg white and 20-year Huadiao wine Crispy glutinous rice chicken Mala barbecue pork PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 4-24 persons 89
CANTONESE Dynasty 3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2584 6971 renaissanceharbourviewhk.com DynastyRestaurantAtRenaissance TATLER SAYS Nestled within the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Dynasty is one of a handful of Cantonese restaurants with a reputation as a “tycoons’ canteen”. It’s not hard to see why, given the institution’s history dating back to 1989, and a contemporary design by AB Concept that takes inspiration from the ancient Xiguan mansions of Guangzhou. On your visit, don’t miss out on the Peking duck served two ways, panfried king scallop in gravy, and abalone claypot rice, each of which showcase the finest ingredients and expert techniques. Complement your meal with a selection from the extensive wine and Chinese tea list, and don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations— service is attentive yet unobtrusive throughout. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Signature barbecued pork Crispy chicken Chilled marinated Bailing mushrooms PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms for 8-72 persons 90 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Flower Drum 2B Linway Court, 69-71 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2267 0288 flowerdrum.com.hk flowerdrumhk flowerdrumhk TATLER SAYS Those in the know love Flower Drum for its elevated take on the Hong Kong classic of char siu rice with eggs, which is made with fresh Miyazaki pork. The steamed Kyushu egg custard with wild matsutake mushrooms from Yunnan and minced Spanish pork is another must-try, as is the barbecued Welsh royal lamb with brown sugar-smoked walnut. Even the humble congee gets a spectacular makeover in a version called Congee à la Sampan, which comes with king scallops, fresh giant grouper, fresh crab meat and fish maw. The restaurant interior is tastefully luxurious and the service is attentive. The owners also run Jing Alley, which serves Chengdustyle Sichuan cuisine, in Sheung Wan. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sichuan-style boiled leopard coral grouper Fresh giant grouper fillet in sweet corn & Kyushu egg sauce Braised wild bamboo fungus, morchella vulgaris PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 91
CANTONESE Forum 1/F, Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2869 8282 forumrestaurant1977.com forum1977 forumrestaurant1977 TATLER SAYS Following the passing in July of Cantonese food legend Yeung Koon Yat, also known as “The King of Abalone”, the mantle at his restaurant Forum has passed to the eminently capable hands of his apprentice, chef Adam Wong. While slow-cooked Japanese abalone is the key draw for deep-pocketed diners, this Causeway Bay institution also serves up some of the city’s best dim sum and brilliant, steaming hotpots. Deep-fried pork with dried mandarin peel in sweet and sour sauce is a brilliant rendition, while pigeon stuffed with matsutake mushroom is a fragrant, gamey delight. Warm service and a wine cellar of big hitters ensure it remains a popular draw with local and international guests. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Braised Ah Yat abalone with goose web Deep-fried pork with dried mandarin peel in sweet and sour sauce Forum crispy chicken AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2023 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 9 rooms for 4-50 persons 92 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Golden Leaf Lower Lobby Level, Conrad Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2822 8870 conraddining.com GoldenLeafCHK conradhkhotel TATLER SAYS A celebrated name in the dining scene for authentic Cantonese cuisine, Conrad Hong Kong’s Golden Leaf is helmed by executive chef Tony Wan who, after a previous stint at the restaurant in 1995, returned and has been leading the kitchen since 2015. With decades of experience under his belt, chef Wan ensures the legacy of Golden Leaf is not lost—no matter if it’s dim sum, barbecued delicacies, hearty, nutrient-packed stews and broths or premium seafood dishes, prepared with the freshest live catch of the day. That said, some of Golden Leaf’s most loyal visitors swear by its old-fashioned classics: stuffed crab shell au gratin, har gau and siu mai, a milky almond tea dessert and the crowd-pleasing mango pudding. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 • Sautéed king prawns with pineapple and hawthorn herbs in chilli sauce Poached fillet of sole with dried shrimp and preserved vegetables in clear broth Shallow-fried crispy chicken PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 2-16 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 93
CANTONESE Ho Lee Fook 3-5 Elgin Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2810 0860 holeefook.com.hk holeefookhk holeefookhk TATLER SAYS Executive chef ArChan Chan, Tatler Dining’s Local Champion for 2023, has in the last few years pivoted Ho Lee Fook’s cuisine to make it more unapologetically Cantonese in spirit. She uses traditional techniques and recipes, but makes small tweaks to the ingredients: traditional char siu is finished with a honey and maltose glaze on a charcoal grill to lend an extra touch of smokiness, while the taro puffs at the restaurant’s monthly Good Fortune Club dim sum sessions are stuffed with curried Wagyu beef. Desserts remain playful, with condensed milk poured onto pandan milk bread French toast from on high, as does the restaurant’s ambience: music is loud, lights are low and cocktails flow. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Ho Lee Duck Kurobuta pork char siu Marinated clams AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2023-2024 • Local Champion, 2023 • 94 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Hoi King Heen B2/F, InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2731 2883 hongkong.intercontinental.com intercongshk TATLER SAYS From the relatively unchanged basement of the InterContinental Grand Stanford in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hoi King Heen offers a menu balanced by timeless classics, like deep-fried crab meat served in-shell, and crispy pork belly overflowing with salted egg yolk, and more creative dishes like an almond milk dessert whisked tableside. It’s top-notch Cantonese, through and through. It’s no wonder why the regulars keep coming back, year after year, inducting the next generation of young diners in the process. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Deep-fried crab meat and onions in a crab shell Braised whole South African abalone with pomelo peel in oyster sauce Steamed garoupa fillet with shredded pork and mushroom on lotus leaf PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 6-36 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 95
CANTONESE Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 1/F, Elegance Court, 2-4 Tsoi Tak Street, Happy Valley, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2893 3788 1983hkcuisine hongkongcuisine1983 TATLER SAYS Since joining in 2022, UK-born chef Silas Li has transformed Hong Kong Cuisine 1983’s menu into a reflection of his wide-ranging experience in the kitchen. With its fresh, seasonal products, innovative cooking methods, and a blend of Western and Cantonese ingredients, guests will find highly technical dishes, stunning plates and big flavours. Try the beautiful steamed egg white, crab meat with Huadiao wine, and lily flower root foam served in an eggshell—a dish that showcases Li’s creative vision as a chef. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Layers of steamed egg white, crab meat with Huadiao wine Bird’s nest stuffed winter melon ball Dim sum selection PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 12 persons 96 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Kam Tung Kitchen G/F, 59-99 Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, Shau Kei Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2569 4361 kamtungtai kamtungtai.kitchen TATLER SAYS The Tanka are people who traditionally lived on boats in the waters of the South China Sea around Hong Kong and Guangdong province. As such, seafood is a major feature of their cuisine. One of the best places to sample it is Kam Tung Kitchen in the former fishing village of Shau Kei Wan. The busy, no-frills restaurant has been going since 1990, attracting a mix of regular locals and well-heeled patrons. A dizzying array of menu items are available, from steamed fish and shellfish to dim sum and claypot rice with a variety of toppings. Those unable to decide can opt for one of the set menus on offer. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Stewed giant grouper head and belly with preserved radish Pickled cabbage and fish in hot pot Soy sauce chicken served with garlic and ginger PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 97
CANTONESE Kamcentre Roast Goose 1/F, South China Athletic Association, 88 Caroline Hill Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2520 1110 scaa.org.hk kamcentre.roastgoose kamcentre.roastgoose TATLER SAYS The roast goose and char siu are the musttry dishes at this unassuming Chinese restaurant tucked away in the bowling centre of the South China Athletic Association in Causeway Bay. The signature char siu is made from fatty neck meat which is cut extra-thick and charred to lend a beautifully smoky flavour, while the roast Qingyuan black-neck goose is cooked to perfection. The restaurant also offers other noteworthy dishes like watercress soup, homemade sausage and stirfried dishes, along with old Cantonese favourites that are increasingly hard to find these days, such as barbecued goose webs with barbecued pork, chicken liver, and pork belly wrapped in goose intestine. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Roast goose Char siu pork Fish maw, ginseng and goose palm PRICE PER HEAD: HK$200 98 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Kin’s Kitchen 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2571 0913 kinskitchen.com.hk kinskitchen TATLER SAYS Typical of many Chinese restaurants, Kin’s Kitchen doesn’t look like much. It’s tucked away in a nondescript building; the lighting is bright and the furniture bland. What sets it apart is the effort the Lau family puts into sourcing quality local ingredients from farmers, producers and suppliers in Hong Kong and Guangdong province. The menu of traditional Cantonese dishes is extensive, but highlights include the signature smoked chicken, steamed whole grouper fish and a deceptively simple handmade egg noodles with spring onion oil and soy sauce. Pricing is good for the quality, and BYO is allowed for a small corkage fee. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Kin’s smoked chicken Drunken abalone Steamed grouper PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 99
CANTONESE Lai Ching Heen Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2313 2313 hongkong.regenthotels.com laichingheen laichingheen TATLER SAYS Previously known as Yan Toh Heen, Lai Ching Heen has reverted to its original name to coincide with the reopening of Regent Hong Kong in its newest form. Boasting a rich legacy, the restaurant features decor akin to a jade jewellery box, opening to reveal an extensive menu of meticulous Cantonese classics served on signature jade place settings. Executive chef Lau YiuFai is the trusted hand helming the kitchen, and over the decades has made his name with refined signatures like the double boiled fish maw and sea cucumber. Chinese tea culture also takes a prime position in the dining experience, with a dedicated tea sommelier who presents each table with a treasure trove of expertly sourced teas, all brewed in the finest clay tea pots. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Peking duck Wok-fried lobster with crabmeat roe and fresh milk Barbecued pork with honey AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2016-2017 • Best Tea Service, 2016 • 100 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 10-36 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE The Legacy House 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/the-legacy-house thelegacyhouse thelegacyhousehk TATLER SAYS The Legacy House at Rosewood is led by Chinese executive chef Li Chi Wai, who turns Cantonese classics into luxurious, breathtaking dishes. The restaurant offers a dim sum set menu, as well as a lunch and dinner menu filled with premium Cantonese flavours such as braised Yoshihama abalone in oyster sauce, and double-boiled fish maw soup with young coconut. Familiar flavours are expertly refined with creativity, all of which are enhanced with a view of the Victoria Harbour. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Steamed spotted grouper fillet with rice noodles and garlic Chicken stuffed with glutinous rice and preserved meat Stir-fried fish noodles PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 7 rooms for 4-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 101
CANTONESE Lung King Heen 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3196 8882 fourseasons.com FourSeasonsHotelHongKong fshongkong TATLER SAYS Helmed by master chef Chan Yan Tak and complete with breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour, Lung King Heen is one of Hong Kong’s most sought-after finedining experiences. Diners who are lucky enough to bag a table, preferably by the window, can look forward to a wide range of Cantonese dishes with a contemporary twist, from honeybarbecued pork that’s perfectly crisp on the outside and juicy on the inside, to delightful dim sum—sesame puffs with ham, pepper and spring onions, Shanghainese pork dumplings with scallop, sea whelk and shrimp, and garlic spring rolls—to signature dishes you’ll remember for months to come. Commence proceedings with a glass of champagne or a flute of locally made sparkling tea. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 102 Wok-fried superior Australian Wagyu with morel mushrooms Superior potage with shredded chicken Wok-fried prawns with organic black garlic and dried chilli AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2016, 2019 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 4-12 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Man Ho Chinese Restaurant 3/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2810 8366 marriott.com jwmarriotthkmanho manhochineserestaurant TATLER SAYS The expansive, lightfilled dining room at Man Ho at the JW Marriott is the perfect platform for Jayson Tang’s increasingly impressive repertoire of modern Chinese menus. Large groups of all ages gather for dishes such as whole South African dried abalone with wild mushrooms, or perfectly pan-fried fish maw with a chicken and almond sauce. Speaking of fowl, the signature Ping Yuen chicken with Chinese herbs is another winner—but must be pre-ordered. Don’t miss the sinful mousse of pork belly and shrimp stuffed in fried dough sticks with sweet and sour sauce, while vegetarians will love the stewed bean curd with morel mushrooms and bamboo pith. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2023-2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 Baked whole South African dried abalone puff with wild mushrooms Steamed egg with lobster fillets in saffron sauce served with mullet roe Pan-fried fish maw with almond and chicken sauce PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 12-70 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 103
CANTONESE Man Wah 25/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2825 4003 mandarinoriental.com/hongkong ManWahMOHKG mo_hkg TATLER SAYS Man Wah, the Mandarin Oriental's prized Cantonese restaurant, offers luxurious dim sum and banquet-style dishes with a stunning view overlooking Victoria Harbour. Since its 2020 refurbishment, the restaurant now boasts a beautiful royal blue dining room while maintaining the original high quality of the cooking. The menu offers a range of elevated traditional dishes such as baked green crab meat with yuzu sauce and Chinkiang vinegar jelly, as well as signatures including Peking duck, and sweet and sour pork with fresh pineapple. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Deep-fried matsutake mushroom pudding Sauteed lobster, superior fish broth Classic barbecued duck feet with barbecued pork belly PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 32 persons 104 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Megan’s Kitchen 5/F, Lucky Centre, 165-171 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2866 8305 meganskitchen.com meganskitchen.hk meganskitchen.hk TATLER SAYS It’s clear from the moment that you step inside Megan’s Kitchen that this is not your average Hong Kong hotpot joint. Park yourself in the ivory and amber-hued dining rooms—the booths are particularly cosy and private dining rooms are also available— and work your way through an expansive menu that includes everything from Korean beef short ribs to supreme Mongolian lamb, Pacific clams and Peking duck dumplings. Among the signature soup bases are tom yum goong cappuccino and fresh lobster borscht. There are also plenty of vegetarian options available. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Tomato and crab soup base in soufflé finish Tom yum goong cappuccino hotpot Steamed pork belly with mui choy and soufflé topping PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 9 rooms for 8-30 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 105
CANTONESE Ming Court 6/F, Cordis Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3552 3300 cordishotels.com/en/hong-kong cordishk cordishk TATLER SAYS Serving refined Cantonese classics, Ming Court consistently upholds an exacting standard when it comes to hearty, flavour-forward dishes and five-star service. The traditional menu, with a few occasional twists on stalwart favourites, sources extensively from around the globe to satisfy seasonal cravings of any kind. Enjoy a leisurely afternoon of dim sum favourites before moving onto longstanding signatures that many make the journey over for, including the grilled eel with Chinese angelica, chilled silken tofu with gold leaf and black truffle, and chicken baked in rock salt—all of which speak volumes to the chef’s excellent culinary skills. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Supreme honeybarbecued pork loin Crispy fried crab Fried giant grouper fillet with minced shrimp PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 12-14 persons 106 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Moon Bay 8/F, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2332 9383 hkmoonbay.com hkmoonbay moonbay_chinesecuisine TATLER SAYS To enjoy Moon Bay fully, come as a group, so you can order the signature roast suckling pig. It’s served in two parts, with textbook crackling and steamed wrappers first, before the rest of the juicy swine is plated. Typical of high-end Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong, shark’s fin is still on the menu, though there are plenty of other tempting alternatives. Classics such as char siu, sweet and sour pork, and baked stuffed crab are done well, and the restaurant is popular for dim sum. The small wine list is filled with big hitters including Krug, Cristal and Château Mouton Rothschild. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Crispy roasted goose Stir-fried M8 Wagyu beef with organic black garlic Steamed grouper fillet, Yunnan ham, mushrooms, Hua Diao sauce PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 107
CANTONESE Nuva Level 2, AsiaWorld Expo, Chek Lap Kok, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3606 8818 asiaworld-expo.com/nuva TATLER SAYS Nuva’s location may be off the beaten track, but that’s no reason to write off this elegant restaurant. With unobstructed views of the South China Sea streaming through the floor-toceiling windows, the light and airy dining room, hidden in AsiaWorld-Expo, is the setting for a delicate menu of creative Cantonese gastronomy informed by tradition and executed with an artistic attention to detail, where each neatly presented dish arrives on pristine Legle France porcelain tableware—right down to the dim sum steamers. Traditional staples are also aptly refined, with the golden-roasted char siu and baked stuffed crab shell among the signatures. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Baked barbecued pork with thin-sliced pork fat and chicken liver Steamed egg white with shrimp and pumpkin purée Baked stuffed crab shell PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 108 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE One Harbour Road 7/F-8/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2584 7722 hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com grandhyatthongkong grandhyatthongkong TATLER SAYS The artistry of authentic Cantonese cuisine takes centre stage at One Harbour Road. Imbued with a dated charm, this institution captures the essence of a bygone era with a menu that showcases Cantonese traditions through a modern lens. From meticulously prepared dim sum to sumptuous offerings like the signature Australian Wagyu and foie gras fried rice with Yunnan termite mushroom sauce, and deep-fried Boston lobster claw with shrimp mousse, each dish tells a story of heritage and culinary mastery. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Dim Sum Garden Steamed giant grouper fillet, bamboo pith, beancurd sheet, fermented rice wine sauce Australian Wagyu and foie gras fried rice PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 12-24 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 109
CANTONESE Peony Chinese Restaurant Shop 153A, 1/F, DB Plaza, Discovery Bay, Lantau Island, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2215 0833 dbpeony.com db.peony db.peony TATLER SAYS As the only upscale Chinese restaurant in the seaside town of Discovery Bay, Peony Chinese Restaurant is sure to stand out with its elegant decor and contemporary design that looks out to panoramic views of the serene surroundings. The menu, too, is of similar sophistication and features a standard selection of Cantonese staples like dim sum and barbecued meats, with signatures like the succulent crispy pork belly and flaky barbecue pork puffs served with a zingy citrus paste, along with other local delicacies, using creative preparation and premium ingredients that change with the season. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Wok-fried lobster with purple onions, spring onions and shallots Braised Kanto sea cucumber with spring onion in supreme oyster sauce Angus beef pastry puff “handbags” PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-12 persons 110 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Rú 7/F, Nina Hotel Tsuen Wan West, 8 Yeung Uk Road, Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2280 2923 ninahotelgroup.com/en/nina-hotel-tsuen-wan-west/dining/ru TATLER SAYS Rú, the flagship restaurant of Nina Hospitality group, launched in 2023 to celebrate authentic Chinese—mostly Cantonese—cuisine and to serve modern interpretations of traditional recipes and ingredients, with tasteful elegance. Its location in the New Territories allows for another important part of Rú’s mission: sourcing sustainable local ingredients for the kitchen, where possible. A wide-reaching, often seasonal culinary repertoire includes favourites such as double-boiled soups, robustly flavoured roast meats, live and dried seafood, wok-fried dishes and plentiful desserts. Signatures include baked crab shell stuffed with crab meat and onion, crispy pigeon with teasmoked pigeon egg and stir-fried spare ribs with aged mandarin peel and balsamic vinegar. A tea master is also at hand for perfect pairings. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 • PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 6-36 persons • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Stir-fried spare ribs with aged tangerine peel and balsamic vinegar Baked whole abalone puff Braised chicken wing stuffed with bird’s nest and truffle honey 111
CANTONESE Seventh Son 3/F, The Wharney Guang Dong Hotel, 57-73 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2892 2888 seventhson.hk TATLER SAYS As the seventh son of Chui Fook-Chuen from the renowned Fook Lam Moon family, founder Chui Wai-Kwan set out to serve classic Cantonese dishes based on the recipes of his father, from banquet dishes such as the much-Instagrammed suckling pig and goose webs to humble, oldschool favourites including braised pomelo skin. Dining here is perhaps the closest you can get to what the Cantonese elite were eating in the late Qing dynasty. Despite the illustrious history and the fine southern Chinese cuisine, the restaurant—with its teak floors, gold accents and warm lighting—is relatively casual and well suited to small family dinners as well as big celebratory gatherings. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Braised Yoshihama abalone in oyster sauce Signature crispy chicken Baked stuffed crab shell with onion and fresh crab meat PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 112 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Ship Kee G/F, Pao Yip Building, 7 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2893 9688 epicurean.com.hk/restaurant/ship-kee shipkeehk shipkeehk TATLER SAYS For no-frills Cantonese dim sum and banquetstyle dishes, Ship Kee offers perfected classics in a laidback environment. Opened in 2021, the team is made up of chefs who previously worked in prestigious Cantonese kitchens for decades. The famed honey-glazed char siu barbecued pork is tender, with the optimal balance between lean and fatty meat. Ship Kee is a favourite with locals, made up of banquet-style tables that guarantee a lively atmosphere during dinner. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Braised giant grouper tail with roasted pork belly and tofu in clay pot Steamed fresh striped prawns with aged Shaoxing wine and chicken oil with Inaniwa udon Master Woo’s honeyglazed BBQ pork PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 113
CANTONESE Sing Yin Cantonese Dining 1/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3717 2848 marriottbonvoyasia.com WHongKong whongkong TATLER SAYS There are options aplenty for fine-dining Cantonese in Hong Kong, but this sleek spot at W Hong Kong holds its own against the best. The tomelike menu offers a wide collection of Cantonese fare, ranging from by-the-book traditional plates to innovative modern dishes, though it’s the dim sum selection that’ll impress with its variety and creativity. Some dishes—mainly the rice and noodles—can be made in half portions on request, which is just one manifestation of the restaurant’s amiable service. Carefully positioned glass panels surround tables and booths, giving them a welcome sense of intimacy and privacy, making this a great spot for a romantic meal or group dining. Add in a solid wine list and an excellent collection of premium Chinese teas, and it’s clear why this is Cantonese dining par excellence. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 114 Sautéed Australian Wagyu, wild mushroom, black truffle sauce in crispy bun Braised crispy rice with fresh shrimp in lobster bisque Lychee wood-fired crispy chicken PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 4-40 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Spring Moon 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2696 6760 peninsula.com peninisulahongkong thepeninisulahongkong TATLER SAYS A celebrated Chinese fine-dining establishment, Spring Moon, housed quietly within the legendary Peninsula Hotel, consistently meets guests with exceptional service and refined Cantonese cuisine. Within a graceful dining room that conjures up a 1920s art deco Shanghainese teahouse, the menu is decidedly traditional with moments of creativity. The dim sum is a particular stand-out, with baked barbecued pork puffs and steamed pork dumplings as signatures; while a more extensive tasting selection highlights authentic recipes of elaborate preparation. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Wok-fried tiger prawn with rich chicken broth Pan-fried egg white with bird’s nest and crab meat Wok-fried diced Kagoshima beef fillet with black garlic, beetroot, yam bean and French onion PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 2-48 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 115
CANTONESE T’ang Court 1-2/F, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2132 7898 langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/hong-kong/dine/tang-court TangCourtHK langhamhk TATLER SAYS The Cantonese restaurant at The Langham offers elevated Cantonese classics inside a lavish, burgundycoloured dining room. The kitchen is led by executive chef Wong Chi Fai, who aims to retain the traditions of Cantonese dishes without gentrifying the cuisine. Instead, dishes are made with the highest-quality ingredients and techniques, and then plated with elegance. The restaurant offers dim sum and à la carte dishes, as well as a tasting menu. Its decades-old signature dishes, including the stir-fried lobster with onion, sautéed prawns and crab roe with golden-fried pork and crab meat puff, and baked seafood rice with cream sauce in crab shell, are notable favourites. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Barbecued Iberian pork with honey Double-boiled bird’s nest with Chinese cabbage and bamboo fungus Fried rice with whole abalone, diced duck, chicken and conpoy wrapped in lotus leaf PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 4-24 persons 116 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Tin Lung Heen 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, West Kowloon, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2263 2270 tinlungheen.com ritzcarltonhongkong ritzcarltonhongkong TATLER SAYS From business dinners to intimate gatherings, Tin Lung Heen, which is perched on Level 102 at the Ritz Carlton, is a stunning venue. The Chinese restaurant, helmed by local master chef Paul Lau, is the grand standard of Cantonese cuisine. With one of the city’s best cuts of char siu, Tin Lung Heen is sure to satisfy any appetite with an expanded à la carte menu, highlighting the restaurant’s abundant selection of dim sum. Wine pairings are also available with a variety of dishes celebrating seasonal ingredients. Be sure to book ahead of time for a table by the window, where Hong Kong’s harbour views make the perfect accompaniment to a wonderful dining experience. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Barbecued Iberian pork with honey Steamed crab claw with egg white and Huadiao wine Double-boiled chicken soup with fish maw in baby coconut PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms for 40 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 117
CANTONESE Wing 29/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2711 0063 wingrestaurant.hk wingrestauranthk wingrestaurant_hk TATLER SAYS If ever there was a perfect marriage of contemporary kitchen technique with deep understanding of Cantonese gastronomy, it would come in the form of Wing. Now entering its fourth year, chef-patron Vicky Cheng’s exploration of his native cuisine is only growing in confidence. Beyond the spellbinding plating, there is evidence of an almost academic study of the possibilities of Cantonese ingredients: from local threadfin caught at its fattiest; to technically complex pomelo pith that’s braised then delicately fried; and lusciously golden century eggs made in-house. Beyond the cooking, the service here—professional, discreet and amicable—is enough to keep a litany of regulars coming back time and again. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chopped chilli fish maw rice Wood-smoked Qingyuan goose Alaskan king crab, crab roe, cheung fun AWARDS: Chef of the Year, 2024 • Best Service, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • 118 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-8 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Yat Tung Heen Basement 2, Eaton Hotel, 380 Nathan Road, Jordon, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2710 1093 yattungheen.com yattungheen yattungheen TATLER SAYS Operating for more than three decades, Yat Tung Heen is one of Kowloon’s top hotel Chinese restaurants, frequented by food lovers locally and from abroad. Despite its basement location, the restaurant underwent a major facelift when the hotel was refurbished in 2018, with stylish dark wooden furnishings mirroring a 1920s Shanghainese tavern. Chef Tam Tung’s revered honeyglazed barbecued pork and the restaurant’s vast selection of dim sum make the restaurant a popular lunch spot, while à la carte selections cover a wide range of vegetarian and seasonal delicacies, together with daily rotating varieties of nutritious Chinese soups. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Honey-glazed barbecued pork Tiger prawn two ways Pan-fried chicken with ginger and mandarin peel PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 8-30 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 119
CANTONESE Yue Shop 1301, Food Forum, Time Square, 1 Matheson Street, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2838 3968 lubuds.com/yue-times-square-causeway-bay lubudsfnbgroup lubudsfnbgroup TATLER SAYS Having long managed upmarket Japanese restaurant chain Ana, the ever-industrious Lubuds Group pivoted into Cantonese fare with the opening of Yue. Here, the chef pours his 40 years of training in refined Cantonese cooking into the menu, offering a slew of delicacies that run from labourintensively elegant (deep-fried stuffed crab shell) to homey and comforting (deepfried crispy chicken) to foodie favourites (stirfried claypot mud crab, with rice rolls to soak up all the crab essence). Crowd-pleasers also get a more discerning twist here, such as sweet and sour pork made with aged vinegar, while classic dim sum is served during lunch. Meanwhile, in typical fashion of large Chinese restaurants, a range of private rooms are available for differentsized soirées. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Marinated sliced abalone in spicy sauce Roasted marinated pigeon Tofu chrysanthemum in sweetened ginger soup PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 8-12 persons 120 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Yung Kee Yung Kee Building, 32-40 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2522 1624 yungkee.com.hk YungKeeRestaurant yungkeehk TATLER SAYS A window of bronzed roast geese, chickens and sides of pork tempt diners from the street into four storeys of elaborate dining rooms. While the roast meats are the star of the show, there’s also an extensive menu of Cantonese classics made modern, such as crispy toast topped with scallops; scrambled eggs with crab meat and vermicelli; and chicken casserole braised in sand ginger. The atmosphere is just as much of a draw here as the food, with decor that includes the restaurant’s original mid-century floor tiles, pink and green modernist chandeliers, and an 2.5-metretall golden dragon and phoenix display, complete with glowing red eyes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Charcoal-roasted goose Smoked premium pork belly with pine nuts Sea cucumber stuffed with diced garoupa, salted fish and minced pork PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 121
CHINESE Celestial Court 2/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2369 1111 celestialcourt.hk sheratonhk sheratonhongkong TATLER SAYS Celestial Court, an enduring stalwart of the Cantonese culinary scene, crafts a gastronomic narrative steeped in tradition. Masters in preparing premium dried seafood, barbecue and rare heritage dishes, Celestial Court’s chefs bring the art of Chinese culinary traditions and generations-old cooking skills to the fore. The menu spans the spectrum of classic to contemporary, from dim sum to standout dishes like the roasted whole suckling pig stuffed with black truffle and glutinous rice. Some dishes, the result of hours of laborious work, require pre-ordering two days in advance. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Baked stuffed chicken with black truffle, pearl barley and duck liver Steamed shrimp dumpling with bamboo shoots Fried rice with crab, crab roe, conpoy, diced duck, mushrooms and egg white PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 12-96 persons 122 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE China Tang Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2522 2148 chinatang.com chinatanghk chinatanghk TATLER SAYS Founded by the late Sir David Tang and renowned gourmand Dr Peter Lam as an outpost of its famed sister restaurant in London, China Tang Landmark has, since 2013, offered business executives and the well-heeled an escape into the glamour of 1920s Shanghai, with its richly decorated, Chinesestyle furnishings and art deco motifs. The chinoiserie continues from decor to plate, where classic Cantonese—with a twist of Shanghai, Sichuan and Beijing— meets the modern in such dishes as roasted fried brown rice with Satsuma Wagyu cubes and black truffle. The lunchtime dim sum is more traditional, but with equally highquality ingredients and refinement. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Barbecued pork Baked puff pastry with barbecued pork and apple purée Crispy chicken with Sichuan chilli and chicken giblets PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 7 rooms for 10-14 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 123
CHINESE Deng G 2/F & 3/F, Weswick Commercial Building, 147-149 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2609 2328 elite-concepts.com dengghk TATLER SAYS Spread across two floors in a rather unassuming building in Wan Chai is a Sichuanese haven that is simply a cut above. With chef Deng Huadong on the pass, no dish is ever overly reliant on the tingle of mala. Rather, the complex depths of flavour that can exist on the Sichuanese spectrum prove delectably myriad, from yuxiang (“fish fragrance”) to lychee (nothing to do with the fruit; just a considered balance of sweet and sour) and a peppery salted spice. And to wash it all down? More than 30 varieties of baijiu await. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chicken tofu soup Camphor-smoked duck Wu la spicy mandarin fish PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 124 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Gold Garden Shanghai Cuisine Shop 3202, 3/F, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 25 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2116 8328 goldgardenshanghaicuisine.com GoldGardenShanghaiCuisine goldgardenshanghaicuisine TATLER SAYS In a roomy, contemporary interior that echoes the bamboo-forested Geyuan Garden in Yangzhou, China, this is a place to relax over Shanghainese comfort dishes, such as cold shredded chicken with flat rice noodles, and cucumber salad with sesame dressing; piping hot xiao long bao; and delicately poached river shrimp. Aside from traditional pan-fried pork-filled dumplings, Gold Garden also serves a hybrid xiao long bao meets potsticker dish, which arrives sizzling on a cast iron platter. With about 100 entries on the menu, an interesting signature dish is the slowcooked, crispy-skinned, smoked chicken. When in season, freshwater hairy crabs are also very popular here. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Shanghainese assorted cold platter Xiao long bao Braised whole sea cucumber with green onion PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms for 2-4 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 125
CHINESE Grand Majestic Sichuan Shop 301, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2151 1299 grandmajesticsichuan.com grandmajesticsichuan grandmajesticsichuan TATLER SAYS Hong Kong’s most glamorous Sichuanese dining destination promises chandeliers, flutes of vintage champagne and slick service, while the involvement of renowned writer and consultant Fuchsia Dunlop and head chef Theign Phan ensures dishes found nowhere else—and genuine levels of nuanced heat. Let the young service team guide you, but for our money, the panseared fish with fiveyear Pixian chilli bean paste, and whole mud crab wok-fried with Sichuan chillies and peppercorns are nonnegotiables. Did we mention the dan dan mian made tableside? Another winner. A cleverly conceived wine list offers vintages based around years of the Chinese zodiac, while the plant-filled terrace is perfect for a nightcap or cigar. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Bang bang chicken Deng Ying Niu Rou Mapo tofu PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 8-44 persons 126 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Hop Sze G/F, 18 Jupiter Street, Tin Hau, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2556 3377 TATLER SAYS Among its loyalists, of which there are many, it’s the best Chinese restaurant within the vicinity of the city. And it’s such fervour that makes a Hop Sze reservation quite hard to come by, with dinner slots oftentimes booked up by regulars weeks if not months in advance. Understandable, if you’ve had the distinct pleasure of crunching teeth-first into its glorious prawn toast; the steamed threadfin, swimming in chicken fat and Huadiao wine; and the gargantuan serving of baked pork chop rice. While the original Sai Wan Ho location will be closing shop and moving into swankier premises this summer at the members-only Club Bâtard, the Tin Hau location is still open for those looking to savour its cuisine in decidedly more down-to-earth environs. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Pan-fried crab rice roll with ginger and spring onion Seasoned smoked soy chicken Steamed four finger threadfin with chicken fat and yellow wine sauce 127
CHINESE Jiangsu Club 2/F, Alliance Building, 130-136 Connaught Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6230 8973 jiangsuclub jiangsu.club TATLER SAYS In dedication to the long and storied culinary heritage of the province, Jiangsu Club brings one of China’s eight notable regional cuisines to the humble Sheung Wan neighbourhood. Bolstered by the extensive shared experiences and talents of three veteran chefs, the menu features concise creations that honour defining features of the cuisine, including highly seasonal ingredients, meticulous preparation methods and a strong focus on seafood. The dim sum here will satiate morning crowds, but speciality dishes like the unctuous braised pork belly, eight-treasure duck and fish head radish soup are really what makes this place shine. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Steamed cod with Huadiao wine Jiangsu Eight Treasures duck Braised pork knuckle with dried farm vegetables PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms for 4-50 persons 128 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Liu Yuan Pavillion 3/F, The Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2804 2000 TATLER SAYS With its no-frills ambience and devoted patronage, Liu Yuan Pavilion is a stalwart of Shanghainese cuisine for good reason. The menu boasts iconic dishes including the intoxicating drunken squab, stir-fried shrimps, braised pig knuckle, and braised “lion head” meatballs. Its pan-fried pork buns, juicy and devoid of excess oil, are also a delight. And when it comes to hairy crab season in the autumn, a table here is worth its weight in gold. A sought-after destination listed in every Hong Kong guidebook, Liu Yuan Pavilion attracts a diverse crowd; given the restaurant’s widespread appeal to both tourists and locals, securing a reservation well in advance is imperative. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sautéed green crab with green peas in bean sauce Huadiao drunken chicken Xiao long bao with hairy crab roe PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 129
CHINESE The Merchants 45/F, Gloucester Tower, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2155 4141 themerchantshk.com themerchantshk TATLER SAYS The Merchants is one of a trio of high-end restaurants, along with a rooftop bar and private members club, within the glamorous Forty-Five development high above the city. Plush interiors channel belle époque Shanghai, with orange velvet banquettes and hand-embroidered wallpaper. Executive chef Chen Tian-long turns out refined takes on the food of Shanghai and the surrounding provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Signature dishes include stirfried shrimp, deepfried mandarin fish in sweet and sour sauce, jasmine tea-smoked duck, and braised pork belly with bean curd knots in sweet soy sauce. The views of Victoria Harbour and the city skyline add to the already elevated experience. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Drunken chicken in Shaoxing wine Jasmine tea-smoked duck Osmanthus honeyglazed Jinhua ham with crispy bean curd sheet PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for up to 20 persons 130 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Mian The Pavilion, The Murray, Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3141 8888 niccolohotels.com mian_hk TATLER SAYS Housed in a twostorey pavilion in The Murray’s courtyard, Mian features interiors inspired by a traditional tea room. The elevated Chinese dishes show a deep understanding of traditional techniques while offering contemporary flair that brings freshness to old favourites. Plating is modern and ingredients may be internationally sourced, but flavours remain largely classic. There is a focus on luxurious and nourishing ingredients, though you can always tuck into the signature pork chop rice here— found off-menu only. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sichuan-style poached tiger grouper, assorted chillis Boneless silky fowl and chicken fillets, spring onion, dan dan sauce Fried wild rice, seafood, egg, Tai Ma premium soy sauce PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for up to 12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 131
CHINESE Rùn 2/F, The St Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2138 6808 run-restaurant.stregishongkong.com runrestaurant run_restaurant TATLER SAYS Award-winning chef Hung Chi-Kwong puts his more than three decades of experience in five-star hotels to great effect at this elegantly designed and spacious restaurant. He prepares seasonal ingredients from around the world the traditional, painstaking way but presents them in dramatic and contemporary fashion. The wok-fried crab claw with dried shrimp, ginger, spring onion and a layered bean curd sheet looks and tastes spectacular, while Rùn’s barbecued Ibérico pork, made from shoulder meat, is leaner than usual with evenly distributed fat, which results in a satisfying bite. Wine and tea sommeliers offer expert-level guidance on pairing options throughout the menus. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Wok-fried crab claw, dried shrimp, layered bean curd sheet Steamed whole blue lobster, pickled chilli Braised minced fish soup PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-16 persons 132 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Sha Tin 18 4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3723 7932 hyatt.com hyattshatin TATLER SAYS If you visit Sha Tin 18 without getting its Peking duck, you simply aren’t doing things right. The much-loved signature more than lives up to its reputation as one of Hong Kong’s best renditions of the iconic dish, with separate servings of divinely crispy skin (best enjoyed with a sprinkle of sugar), lean breast meat and succulent leg meat—accompanied by plentiful supplies of paper-thin pancakes and lashings of highly addictive garlic paste and soybean sauce. Don’t sleep on the rest of the menu though, which is impressively extensive yet consistently excellent—including Dongguan specialities, dim sum classics and a creative selection of eastmeets-west desserts. Just remember to pre-order that allimportant duck to avoid disappointment. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 • Traditional Peking duck Flambéed rose wine, barbecued pork, lard rice Chinese wine chocolate ice cream PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 5-48 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 133
CHINESE Sun Hon Kee Shop G01, G/F, Commune Modern, 28 Wo Fung Street, Luen Wo Hui, Fanling, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2683 0000 sunhonkee sunhonkee TATLER SAYS Hollywood superstar Chow Yun Fat is among the famous (and not so famous) faces who have made their way across town to this unpretentious, familyrun restaurant in the New Territories. The reason they come is the traditional Hakka cuisine—steaming bowls of fish noodles, fat oyster omelettes, chunks of pork with tangy vegetables, whole chickens caramelised with rice wine, chilli and ginger. Ingredients are sourced from local farms and fishermen; not to be on trend but because that’s the way they’ve always done it. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Slow-braised pork belly with pickled mustard greens Fried oyster pancake Stir-fried chicken with Chinese yellow rice wine PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 134 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Xin Rong Ji G/F & 1/F, China Overseas Building, 138 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3462 3516 TATLER SAYS The Hong Kong outpost of this Beijing brand is a portal for diners to sample many of the same excellent Taizhou dishes as in its flagship—or indeed at any of the multiple branches across mainland China. The restaurant specialises in fish and seafood from the East China Sea; the braised, wild-caught yellow croaker is an outstanding signature dish. The formidably refined Peking duck carved tableside is another must-try, with its crisp, paper-thin skin presented with individual servings of steamed wrappers and condiments. Service in the elegantly restrained dining room is warm and polished. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Braised, wild-caught yellow croaker Roasted Peking duck Crispy fried silver ribbon fish PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 135
CHINESE Yong Fu Shop 2, G/F & 1/F, Golden Star Building, 20-24 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2881 7899 yongfuhk.com yongfuhk yongfuhk TATLER SAYS As with many of Hong Kong’s finest regional Chinese dining spots, Yong Fu sits in comparatively modest environs, namely Lockhart Road in Wan Chai. Head chef Liu Zhen oversees perfect renditions of dishes which won acclaim— and plenty of fans— in Yong Fu’s original Shanghai location, thanks to seasonal, family-style cuisine from Ningbo. Seafoodmad Hong Kong diners love how he teases maximum flavour from produce plucked from the East China Sea, such as croaker poached in rice wine. Another signature dish of raw mud crab keeps the crustacean flavours paramount in a sauce of ginger and coriander, while mud snails are a seasonal speciality far more enticing than they sound. From the meat section, the crispy chicken is a showstopper, popular with families and groups. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 136 Mud crabs with ginger and coriander Yellow croaker soup Handmade pork dumplings and sesame glutinous rice dumplings PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FILIPINO Barkada UG/F, FOCO, 48 Cochrane Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2663 0238 barkada.hk barkada.hk TATLER SAYS Filipino cuisine has thus far been underrepresented in Hong Kong, making Barkada an exciting addition to the city’s dining scene. A collaboration between Singular Concepts and Filipino-American food influencer Jen Balisi, Barkada offers a modern take on traditional Filipino dining, with vibrant, accessible dishes that are ideal for sharing in groups. The “spicy funky coconut noodles” are a standout, delivering a sweet-spicy-umami flavour explosion that’ll have you ordering seconds immediately, while appetisers like the adobo popcorn chicken and lumpiang Shanghai spring rolls go down a treat with drinks; the creative cocktail menu also features many Filipino influences. With its convenient Central location and easy-going vibes, Barkada is a great choice for a fun night out with friends. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • Spicy funky coconut noodles Adobo fried chicken Sizzling sisig 137
FRENCH Ami Shop 302, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3185 8396 ami-woodear.hk Ami.HKG ami.hongkong TATLER SAYS Nestled among Central’s skyscrapers, Ami shines with its contemporary French fare. The tranquil, forestthemed restaurant offers an intimate space frequented by cocktail lovers, thanks to the adjacent bar Woodear. Its style of modern French fine dining makes the most of seasonality and the best European produce, which is prepared with solid, refined execution. Highlights include the signature beef tartare with seaweed crisp, mushroom soup with shiitake and black pepper roll, and a baked Alaska for two. Besides its celebrated wine list, Ami is also home to a wide whisky selection, with a popular freeflow brunch on the weekend. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Hand-cut heritage beef tartare Blood duck breast Rum baba, mango PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 10-14 persons 138 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Bâtard Shop E, 165-166 Connaught Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2318 1802 batardhk.com batardhk TATLER SAYS Sharing premises with 7,000-square-foot retailer The Fine Wine Experience—which boasts the largest Burgundy section in Hong Kong—Bâtard is big on wine, with dishes designed to be paired. On the food menu, classic French culinary techniques are applied to create deceptively simple dishes such as the much-loved signature of local roast threeyellow chicken, seared Angus beef tenderloin with mushroom duxelles and foie gras, or Brittany blue lobster risoni. Make sure to book your visit pronto, as Bâtard is due to be folded into Club Bâtard soon, a sprawling new members’ club in the heart of Central due to open in summer of this year. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022 • Rising Star, 2022 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Bâtard’s signature roast chicken, warm pilaf rice Kampachi, seaweed, Oscietre caviar Pâté a choux, hazelnut, cherry PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 139
FRENCH Belon 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2152 2872 belonsoho.com belonhk belonhk TATLER SAYS With a low-key location in Central and interiors conceptualised by Hong Kong design maven Joyce Wang, this curvaceous, velvety dining room in shades of smoky blue has everything you could want for a perfect date. Then there’s the à la carte menu—focused on pulling flavour from the very freshest of ingredients—which is just as sexy. Think langoustine ravioli with bacon and butternut squash; Australian Wagyu striploin with chorizo and polenta, and honey and passion fruit mille-feuille. Staff perfectly walk the fine line between amiable and discreet, and the wine list is divine. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Canadian spot prawn with pomelo and caviar Cervelas en brioche Smoked duck à l’ananas AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2017-2018, 2020, 2022 • Best New Chef, 2018 • 140 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 30-35 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Caprice 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3196 8860 fourseasons.com capricehongkong capricehongkong TATLER SAYS For life’s special occasions, Caprice is top of mind; and with unimpeded harbour views, a glittering dining room seating 108, a 1,000-strong list of wines from the cellar and chef de cuisine Guillaume Galliot’s inspired French-meetsAsian gastronomy, could anyone blame you? Signatures abound: there are perennial favourites like land and sea tartare of Australian Wagyu and Gillardeau oyster with Kristal caviar; Alaskan king crab with crustacean jelly and Osciètre Prestige caviar; and hot and cold onion soup; although, like any fine-dining restaurant worth its salt, the menu changes constantly with the seasons, highlighting the best of global produce. Oenophiles will find their Mecca in the tome-like wine list, as will cheese fiends in the gargantuan cheese board that precedes dessert. SIGNATURE DISHES • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2020, 2022-2024 • Best Service, 2019, 2022 • Best Sommelier, 2022 • Best New Chef, 2015 • Best Pastry Chef, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019 • Best Cheese, 2013 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,100 • PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 5-12 persons • Alaskan king crab crustacean jelly and Osciètre Prestige caviar Racan pigeon from Maison Bellorr Australian Wagyu beef, Tarbouriech oyster, Kristal caviar 141
FRENCH Clarence 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3568 1397 clarencehk.com clarencehkg TATLER SAYS Chef Olivier Elzer is known as a fitness freak, working out twice a day. He brings his healthy approach to casual-fine dining at Clarence, making traditional French cuisine far lighter and more suitable for today’s palates. He is also famous for patenting the concept of Yakifrenchy, involving French classics such as frog’s legs and snails grilled over a robata on skewers, like Japanese yakitori. Some dishes in this elegant and refined restaurant are served family-style, with meat and fish cooked whole on the bone, bringing local table culture to an elevated context. The wine list is as extensive as any hotel restaurant, and service is accommodating. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Yakifrenchy Skate wing with garlic confit Challans duck breast PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons 142 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Épure Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3185 8338 epure.hk epurerestaurant epurerestaurant TATLER SAYS Épure has been a standard-bearer for classic French cuisine since it opened its doors in Harbour City in 2014. Today, the restaurant continues to delight with Singaporean chef Aven Lau, formerly of Bâtard, at the helm. French flavours are given obsessively precise and sophisticated modern tweaks: one dish sees Kegani crab mixed with curry powder and olive oil, then topped with cauliflower cream, and an apple and curry leaf jelly with foie gras; while a trio of orbs reveals itself to be foie gras mousse glazed with Madeiraduck consommé jelly and a duck and pork terrine glazed with milk jelly. The wine list is noteworthy, with carefully selected labels from many of the notable appellations of Europe. The dining room is elegantly decorated in a warm palette of brown and green, with curving banquettes below a hand-painted mural of a forest complete with deer, while the service oozes old-fashioned charm. AWARDS: • Tatler Dining 20, 2016-2020 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 16 persons SIGNATURE DISHES • • • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Paris mushroom soup Cévennes onion, black truffle Raspberry and chocolate 143
FRENCH Feuille 5/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2881 1848 feuille.hk feuillehk feuillehk TATLER SAYS At Feuille, named after the French word for “leaf”, vegetables are the star of the show. Over 80 per cent of the menu, executed by executive chef Joris Rousseau, is headlined by locally sourced produce, transforming seasonal ingredients through the alchemy of French techniques and mirroring the life cycle of plants. Signature dishes include frog legs, playfully infused with madras and rosemary, while cumin, egg and locally sourced baby corn come together to reimagine the classic mouillette (egg and soldiers). The tomato, strawberry and longan dessert showcases a commitment to zero-waste cooking, turning the humble tomato into a sweet and savoury marvel. Dining at Feuille is a fun and fresh experience, with each plate a positive nod to the environment’s rhythms. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 144 Daikon, blue crab, kombu Morel, three yellow chicken, aged Shaoxing Green pea, scallops, fig leaf AWARDS: Best New Restaurant, 2024 • Rising Star, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Gaddi’s 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, 19-21 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2696 6763 peninsula.com ThePeninsulaHongKong peninsulahongkong TATLER SAYS As Hong Kong’s first and foremost luxury French dining experience, named after The Peninsula Hong Kong’s first general manager, Leo Gaddi, Gaddi’s has achieved the incredible feat of keeping its stellar reputation for 70 years. These days, the torch continues to be carried by chef Albin Gobil, an alum of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, who keep traditions alive with their modern classic approach to French cooking. Quintessentially French dishes like roasted pigeon, langue de veau (beef tongue), beef tail consommé and poached Dover sole are freshly reinterpreted here. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2015, 2017 • Best New Chef, 2017 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Black Angus beef and Tarbouriech oyster tartare, Kristal caviar, shiso, confit quail egg yolk Milk-fed Aveyron lamb, artichokes, Ras el Hanout spices, herb coulis Golden apple soufflé, light vanilla cream, Granny Smith sorbet PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 12 persons 145
FRENCH L’Atelier De Joël Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2166 9000 robuchon.hk latelier.hk joelrobuchon_hk TATLER SAYS Since its inception in 2006, this establishment, born from Joël Robuchon’s innovative concept in Tokyo, has attracted gourmands without fail. The brand’s nowiconic red and black decor, coupled with a living garden wall, mirrors the signature style synonymous with Joël Robuchon’s culinary empire; for the truest Robuchon experience, sit at the counter for a view of the kitchen in a format directly inspired by Japan’s sushi bars. The contemporary French cuisine, executed with unparalleled precision, showcases prime seasonal ingredients flown in from around the world. The menu, a collection of French classics presented in tapas-style portions, includes signature dishes such as the crispy poached egg adorned with Sologne Imperial caviar, freerange quail and foie gras, and marinated black cod fillet. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 146 L’œuf de poule: Sologne Imperial caviar over a crispy poached egg La Caille: free-range quail and foie gras, served with mashed potato Le black cod: cod fillet marinated in sake and mirin with miso sauce AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2014-2015 • Best Wine List, 2014 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-12 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH L’Envol 3/F, The St Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2138 6818 lenvolhk.stregishongkong.com lenvolhk lenvolhk TATLER SAYS L’Envol stands as a beacon of French fine dining with chef Olivier Elzer’s innovative interpretation of French haute cuisine. The restaurant, elegantly adorned in marble and wood, offers an ambience of quiet sophistication, complementing the meticulously crafted, artfully plated dishes. L’Envol presents a seafood-centric menu, constantly evolving based on seasonality. Staples, however, include the Hokkaido sea urchin box and La Langoustine de Loctudy. For liquid accompaniment, look toward its extensive wine list, which boasts an impressive 800-plus labels. An unapologetically luxurious experience. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022 • Brittany blue lobster “bouillabaisse consommé” Brittany razor clams “à la marinière” Roasted “pigeon au sang” PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 6-8 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 147
FRENCH Louise PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5722 3269 louise.hk louise.hkg TATLER SAYS Opened by chef Julien Royer of Odette in Singapore and helmed by executive chef Franckelie Laloum, this beautiful restaurant serves refined takes on French classics. The signature of roasted yellow chicken with spectacularly delicious Niigata rice “en cocotte”, studded with shards of crispy chicken skin, is a must-try; as is the angel hair pasta with Kristal caviar, black truffle and kombu. The impressive wine list concentrates on French pours, with real thought put into both pairings and by-theglass options. Friendly, knowledgeable service and stylishly relaxed interiors by renowned design studio André Fu ensure that visiting Louise always feels like a treat. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Angel hair pasta, Kristal caviar, black truffle, kombu Smoked organic egg, potato, chorizo, buckwheat Roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken, Niigata rice “en cocotte” AWARDS: Best Interior Design, 2020 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 26 persons 148 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH LPM Shop 1, UG/F, H Queen’s, 23-29 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2887 1113 lpmrestaurants.com lpmhongkong lpmrestaurant TATLER SAYS Nestled within H Queen’s, LPM is a petite évasion to the French Riviera. Stepping through the entrance, the ambience is transformed with thoughtful belle époque detailing, bold art and an inviting atmosphere. The menu is designed to be consistent with the group’s other locations in Dubai, London, Miami and Abu Dhabi, and its classic blend of creativity and precision keeps diners coming back again and again to explore à-laminute preparations of dishes, each a harmonious blend of natural, fresh and delicate flavours. From exquisite escargots to its signature Tomatini, a fun, peppy twist on a classic martini, every visit to LPM is a feast for the senses and a passport to sunnier climes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Warm prawns in olive oil Baby chicken marinated in lemon French toast with spiced ice cream PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 149
FRENCH Maison ES G/F, Hang Tak Building, 1 Electric Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2521 8011 maison-es.com maison_es TATLER SAYS Chef-patron Esther Sham’s Maison ES may be nestled at the end of Wan Chai’s Starstreet Precinct, but just one step into the elegant premises is a journey away to somewhere French-inflected, but that very much reflects Sham. As much is clear in the inventive dishes largely inspired by the chef’s Parisian training, though with touches that point directly homeward. From a can’t-believe-it’sgluten-free “tartare” infused with a satay emulsion to a hearty Wagyu Wellington rendered with Chu Hou paste, nudges and nods to Hong Kong are deftly folded into the very essence of so much of Maison ES’s menu. You’d be remiss not to tuck into its signature not-too-sweet French toast (Hong Kong-style, naturally) at the end of the meal. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Hokkaido scallop ceviche Sautéed spanner crab meat tossed with linguine Spanish red prawn with poached heirloom cherry tomatoes PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 10-24 persons 150 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Petrus 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2820 8590 shangri-la.com/island restaurantpetrus restaurant_petrus TATLER SAYS Fifty-six floors above Hong Kong and 32 years young, Petrus remains one of the city’s premier French fine-dining destinations. The dining room’s baroque decor may divide guests, but the views never fail to dazzle. There’s absolutely no doubting the talent of executive chef Uwe Opocensky, a creative and personable host who passionately talks through the dishes that he and the team craft from breakfast through to dinner. Flawless technique is evident throughout, from venison and foie gras pâté en croute to a stunning Wellington with sweetbreads and monkfish. And as one would expect for a restaurant named after one of France’s most legendary appellations, the wine list is epic. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2015 • Best Pastry Chef, 2014 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Spanish red prawn with garum Georges Bruck foie gras with figs, pecans and brioche French monkfish Wellington with sweetbread PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 15-30 persons 151
FRENCH Racines 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5742 6539 racineshk.com racines.hk TATLER SAYS Taking its name from the French word for “roots”, this homely restaurant is the culinary love child of Romaine Dupeyre, who grew up in Nice, and Toulousian Adrian Castillo, who met as young apprentice chefs at La Chèvre D’Or on the French Riviera. Racines’ warm, woody interior holds just 18 seats, including six counter stools at the open kitchen where you’re best placed to watch their five- and seven-course tasting menus being brought to life. Dishes are seasonal but might include creamy cod and cheese croquettes in summer or Basque river trout with cauliflower, almond and sabayon in autumn. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Burgaud duck Snowball cauliflower Atlantic monkfish PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,600 152 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Jean May Shop A, 14 Gresson Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3590 6033 jeanmayhk.com jeanmayhk jeanmayhk TATLER SAYS Training under master chef Pierre Koffman has equipped chef Tiffany Lo with impeccable skills to open and run this French bistro. Tucked away on a quiet side street of Wan Chai, Jean May is a bright and airy eatery decked out with light green walls, dark wood furnishings and vintage artwork, which underlines the bistro vibes while guests look on the menu board for seasonal highlights as well as current specialities depending on the seasonality of ingredients. Yearround favourite dishes are consistent and sumptuous. The list includes the likes of steak tartare with crispy toast, and duck breast with honey glaze and carrots. Bottles of wine are good value at Jean May, as is the selection of by-theglass wines and beers. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chicken liver parfait Duck à l’orange Steak tartare PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 153
FRENCH Vivant G/F, 8-10 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2952 2766 twins-kitchen.com/vivant-restaurant vivantrestaurant.hk vivant.hk TATLER SAYS “Vivant” means “lively” in French, and this warm and intimate neighbourhood restaurant that seats just 20 has vivacity in spades. Channelling French bistronomy culture, head chef Jeston Chua (formerly of Belon and Bâtard) brings a casual, unfussy approach to top-quality ingredients, and pairs them with a carefully chosen list of natural wines. Dishes have a European heart but take inspiration from everywhere, ranging from the signature of potato mille-feuille with smoked eel rillette to spinatknödel (Tyrolese spinach dumpling) and Boston lobster with vin jaune beurre blanc. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Potato mille-feuille and smoked eel rillette Filipino beef skewer Tortellini with green pea and parmesan sauce PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 154 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH CHINESE Mora 40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9583 8590 mora.com.hk mora.hongkong mora_hongkong TATLER SAYS Tucked among the antique stalls of Cat Street Market, Mora is the latest opening from Tate Dining Room’s chef-founder Vicky Lau. Each dish here features soy in some form, be it in udon noodles in soy milk lobster bouillon or thousandlayer tofu with soybraised shiitake and black garlic. In a bid to promote awareness of soy in local culture, all the soy products at Mora come from a factory Lau set up herself in Chai Wan. The restaurant itself is a picture of serenity: charming scroll paintings at the entrance tell the history of soy and bring a pop of colour to the restaurant’s stylishly subtle, soy-inspired palette of olive green and cream. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2024 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Cold noodles with yellow chicken, soy milk bouillon and red bean paste Local threadfin cooked on the skin with whipped soy milk and fermented tofu Mapo tofu PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,600 155
FRENCH CHINESE Tate Dining Room 210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2555 2172 tate.com.hk tatediningroom tatediningroom TATLER SAYS Vicky Lau, crowned Tatler Dining’s Chef of the Year 2023, weaves French and Chinese culinary traditions and techniques together to create a dining experience that’s as unforgettable as it is unique. Over a decade on, Tate still reigns as one of Hong Kong’s premier finedining destinations, captivating diners with its whimsical artistry and execution of flavours. Step inside, and you’re enveloped in an ambience that’s as romantically poetic as the menu itself, each dish an ode to a singular ingredient, evolving with the seasons. While many earmark Tate for special occasions, this culinary gem beckons for myriad reasons, each visit promising a new chapter in Lau’s culinary wizardry. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Seasonal odes Mignardise trolley AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2014, 20182020, 2022-2024 • Chef Of The Year, 2023 • Best Interior Design, 2018 • 156 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH CHINESE VEA 30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2711 8639 vea.hk veahongkong vea_hk TATLER SAYS In the gastronomic theatre of VEA, chef Vicky Cheng is the master performer, seamlessly blending rich Asian flavours and traditions with the precision and finesse of French cuisine. These innovative creations challenge and honour Chinese cuisine. Consider the sea cucumber, which has been transformed for modern tastes, swathed in the dignified notes of aged Shaoxing wine, or the abalone “pithivier” that’s as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. Here, amid impeccable service, where every desire is anticipated, the wine journey finds its crescendo in a strong selection of Chinese wines, a harmonious counterpart to the adventurous and refined menu. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2024 • Chef Of The Year, 2024 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Sea cucumber Fish maw Abalone “pithivier” PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8 persons 157
FRENCH JAPANESE Dolos G/F, 60 Staunton Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3488 5770 twins-kitchen.com/dolos dolos.hk dolos.hk TATLER SAYS Dolos is named after the giant interlocking concrete tetrapods used on seafronts to break waves—a symbol, according to twin founders Joshua and Caleb Ng, of Hong Kong’s deep connection to the ocean and their ambitions of bringing together food, the city and its people. The name isn’t the only unconventional aspect of this 20-seater: head chef Sean Yuen, formerly of Caprice, who moonlights in a band that plays “instrumental math rock with a Canton twist”, steers the cuisine into unchartered territory—one dish pairs fresh oyster with chopped banana, while another combines grilled eel in sansho pepper sauce and carrot oil. In a boon for wine lovers, the restaurant doesn’t charge a corkage fee. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Three yellow chicken, clam and leek sauce Sawara, beef bone marrow, Buddha hand Grilled eel, shiokara, tomato parmigiano reggiano PRICE PER HEAD: HK1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 20 persons 158 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH JAPANESE Ta Vie 2/F, The Pottinger, 74 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2668 6488 tavie.com.hk tavie.hideakisato ta_vie_hk TATLER SAYS Since opening in 2015, Ta Vie has quietly but quickly grown in stature, a home for discerning diners seeking some of Hong Kong’s most refined and creative tasting menus. Chef Hideaki Sato’s mantra is simple but effective: to concentrate on ingredients and dishes which are “pure, simple and seasonal”, where the key denominator is always taste. On the menu, that translates into plates such as freerange quail which are stuffed with porcini risotto, served with a brown butter using the quail jus. Elsewhere, large hokkigai clams are grilled, then accompanied by a deep, umami-rich clam consommé. Despite being one of the finest restaurants in the city, the dining experience at Ta Vie somehow remains modest and unaffected. SIGNATURE DISHES • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2016-2019 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 rooms for 4-6 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • Charcoal-grilled Nozaki beef rib-eye smoked with hoba leaf Shiro ebi and green asparagus tartare topped with Oscietra caviar Golden peach compote with osmanthus sabayon sauce 159
FRENCH JAPANESE Whisk 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2315 5999 themirahotel.com themirahk themirahk TATLER SAYS Whisk chef de cuisine William Lau weaves an innovative touch with Japanese produce while celebrating French finesse, bringing about its latest era of evolution since the Mira Hong Kong’s modern European restaurant opened in 2009. Those who like a surprise can opt for a 12-course omakase menu, with each dish completely decided ad hoc by the chef, while those who prefer to know exactly what they’ll get can opt for longer or shorter tasting menus, which focus on a range of exquisite seafood. Plant-based alternatives are easily substituted upon request, while a decadent oyster brunch offers unlimited, freshly shucked bivalves to go with an eight-course feast. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Steamed escargots M7 Wagyu sirloin “Rossini” French Challans duck PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons 160 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
INDIAN Chaat 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/chaat chaathongkong chaathongkong TATLER SAYS Under the guidance of chefs Gaurav Kuthari and Dhiraj Kumar, Chaat continues to bring excellence to the table. Menu signatures such as the baked jackfruit samosa and prawn balchao as well as the tandoori section—a study of balance and finesse, and smoke and spice—keep diners coming back for more. The supporting cast of Indian grains—naan, roti and rice—that complement the aromatic curries magnificently are also essential characters in this play of Indian fare. Tasting menus, including premium and vegetarian options, make meals effortless while a comprehensive selection of wines and a grand vista over Victoria Harbour help to enhance the Chaat experience. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Chef Of The Year, 2022 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Baked samosa Lamb dum biryani Old Delhi butter chicken PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons 161
INDIAN New Punjab Club G/F, 34 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2368 1223 newpunjabclub.com newpunjabclub newpunjabclub TATLER SAYS Passionately spearheaded by Black Sheep Restaurants’ Syed Asim Hussain, this establishment is an ode to Punjab’s rich heritage. Chef Palash Mitra rules the kitchen, delivering dishes that are nothing short of royal feasts. The menu parades the likes of keema pau, an ensemble of spiced mutton and celeriac in buttered milk buns; Mughal room makhani, a chicken tikka dish with spiced tomato and butter sauce; and sarson jhinga with cardinal prawns, pistachio butter and oxtail broth. The vibe is all relaxed swagger and retro charm, with plush leather banquettes and a gin trolley that add to the allure. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Samosa chaat Masalewali hanp Keema pau AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2019-2020, 2023-2024 • Best Service, 2018 • Best New Restaurant Readers’ Choice, 2018 • 162 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
INDIAN Pondi 14 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6113 0195 pondi.hk pondi pondihk TATLER SAYS Nestled at the end of an unassuming lane in Sai Ying Pun, Pondi welcomes diners into a rustic, bistro-style dining room that at once feels comforting and familiar. The staff are warm and the vibe is suitably convivial— cosy and communal in the way only a wellknown neighbourhood go-to can. As for the cooking, refined French techniques meet spiceforward Indian flavours on a creative menu that’s elegant in both taste and design, which might feature prawn and leek samosas with blueberry relish and mango chutney; or grilled butter chicken with leek ash yoghurt and spring onion salsa. With an extensive wine selection to follow, no two visits will ever be the same. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Duck kanda bahji Stuffed calamari Lamb chaap PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 163
INTERNATIONAL Brut Shop C, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 11 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3460 5863 brut.com.hk bruthongkong brut_hk TATLER SAYS Brut calls itself a community restaurant first, so it’s no surprise when you find dishes like hanger steak marinated in a coffee rub made from the neighbouring cafe’s brew. These days, newer dishes honour the Filipino heritage of the head chef, CJ Jalandoni, and his French culinary training. Playfulness is part and parcel of the menu, which frequently changes with daily specials and accommodations for vegetarians and those with food intolerances. Part of a crew consisting of a wine shop and a handful of wine-loving neighbourhood bistros, Brut unsurprisingly offers stellar vino, too, focusing mostly on biodynamic and organic winemakers from around the globe. Choose from three- or five-glass wine pairings to go with a chef’s tasting menu. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Miso vegetables Local amadai Braised short ribs PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 164 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
INTERNATIONAL Cruise 23/F (West Tower), Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong, 1 North Point Estate Lane, North Point, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3896 9898 hyatt.com cruisehongkong cruisehk TATLER SAYS Crowning the top of Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour, Cruise is certainly one of the most stylish dining options in the North Point neighbourhood, thanks to an expansive terrace with unhindered harbour views and a cosy, light-filled dining room offering panAsian cuisine. Familyfriendly dishes are the focus here, found in shareable plates like the Cheeky Massaman with braised Sher Wagyu cheek, and pan-seared toothfish with green curry espuma and mussels. Cruise also pulls out the stops for its monthly Draglicious Brunch, as well as with costumed parties on festive occasions. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Seafood tower Hiramasa kingfish Cheeky Massaman PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 11 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 165
INTERNATIONAL Fireside 5/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6610 8689 fireside.hk fireside.hk fireside.hk TATLER SAYS It’s an interesting concept that fuels the open-kitchen dining space of Fireside, decorated with red brick accents, neon signage and wallto-wall dry-ageing fridges: namely, openfire cooking. While that’s nothing new, the restaurant does a stellar job fulfilling its ambitious task of exploring the versatility of the open flame to bring out the most natural flavours of the premium ingredients. Distinctive preparation methods are eagerly used, including grilling, searing, smoking and toasting, all in the name of locking in the distinct aroma of varying types of firewood into the dishes. The result is a series of unexpected smoky hits that manage to surprise, like the steak from nine-year-old Rubia Gallega cattle, local dry-aged threadfin and even dessert, where a burnt milk ice cream bookends a fulfilling meal. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 166 Grilled threadfin Duck confit rice with morel mushrooms 3-day-aged rustic bone-in Cachena steak PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 6-8 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
INTERNATIONAL Harbourside G/F, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2313 2313 hongkong.regenthotels.com harboursideregenthongkong hongkongregent TATLER SAYS Aromas and flavours from around the world congregate at Regent Hong Kong’s buffet restaurant, where the sheer breadth of options is only part of the draw. Harbourside’s buffet experience recreates the buzz of cooked food markets the world over but in a five-star environment with attentive service. Many favourites from the breadth of Asian and western cuisine are presented at buffet tables, counters and live cooking stations. Beginning at breakfast and continuing well into the night, the buffet becomes even more decadent on the weekends with the inclusion of dumpling soup with abalone, sea urchin nigiri in the sushi selection, and even a Peking duck station. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Best Buffet, 2013 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Freshly steamed lobster with grilled cheese Huadiao winepoached foie gras Hache Parmentier PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 167
INTERNATIONAL Ozone 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2263 2270 ozonebarhongkong.com Ozonehongkong118 ozonehongkong TATLER SAYS Set on the 118th floor of Hong Kong’s ICC building, Ozone holds the distinction of being the highest bar in the world, though the sweeping harbour views and well-crafted cocktails are equally superlative. Amid a futuristic, bluehued space, creative mixologists led by head bartender Arvy Bryan Benitez shake up original tipples representing fire, metal, water, earth and wood from the Five Elements menu— though they’ll happily whip up any cocktail on request. There’s also plenty of food to soak up the booze, from Asian-inflected tapas plates to opulent weekend brunches and—in collaboration with the London original—signature plates from Burger & Lobster. Dress to impress, grab a spot on the alfresco terrace and prepare to while away a few hours. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Five Elements cocktail menu Signature lobster roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 168 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
INTERNATIONAL The Lobby Lounge Lobby, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2313 2313 hongkong.regenthotels.com thelobbyloungeregenthongkong hongkongregent TATLER SAYS At lunchtime, the allday-dining section provides Asian and western comfort food. Select from the likes of wonton noodles, laksa, Hainan chicken and seafood paella, fish and chips with seaweed mayonnaise, and a cheese or Ibérico ham platter. Salads of the caesar variety, Thai prawn or heirloom tomato; sandwiches including paninis, bikinis, lobster hotdogs and burgers; and desserts including Japanese white peach melba, house-made cakes and ice cream provide alternatives. Seasonal set lunch menus are also available on request while additional à la carte dishes are added at dinnertime. Afternoon tea is also served, with supplements for caviar, Champagne or bellinis, alongside finger sandwiches, pastries and scones with jam and clotted cream. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Seafood tower Charcuterie platter Wagyu cheeseburger PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 169
ITALIAN 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2537 8859 ottoemezzobombana.com ottoemezzobombanahk ottoemezzobombana_hongkong TATLER SAYS 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana remains Hong Kong’s definitive destination for the highest-end Italian dining. Start with a drink in the compact but elegant bar, then the main dining room beckons for people watching and some of the best pasta in Asia. But there’s far more to the menu and experience, as the finest ingredients available are teased onto plates, like veal fillet paired with an emulsion of organic eggs and a mushroom salad; or Challans duck with a spiced honey sauce—again showing the deftest of touches with meat. Then, towards the end of the year, nowhere is more synonymous with white truffles, as the affable Bombana, a native of Lombardy, makes it rain over dishes like his signature veal and mushroom agnolotti. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Veal and mushroom agnolotti Roasted blue lobster and mushroom Marinated shima aji AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2014 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 12-18 persons 170 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Aria 24/F, California Tower, 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2804 1116 ariaitalian.com ariaitalianhk ariaitalian TATLER SAYS From a dining room perched high enough above Lan Kwai Fong to allow glimpses of the harbour through the Central skyline, Aria’s vibe brings a sense of occasion. Menuwise, expect modern versions of pan-Italian regional dishes, going beyond the traditional family-style recipes from which the kitchen takes its inspiration. Beautifully plated on minimalist chinaware, several dishes make use of seasonal ingredients, including fresh forest mushroom, black or white truffle come autumn-winter, and thinly sliced beef with tuna dressing in the summer. Wine-pairing menus are offered regularly, lasting for a few weeks each time. An indulgent weekend brunch has regulars returning for its premium chilled seafood buffet table, as do dishes such as its succulent grilled whole seabass, crisped at its edges. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 • • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Risotto “Riserva San Massimo”, smoked eel and Greek yogurt, anchovy dust Hokkaido scallops, apricot and coriander oil Tiramisu 171
ITALIAN Asaya Kitchen 6/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com asayakitchenhk TATLER SAYS Despite the wellness industrial complex, the words “healthy” and “sustainability” still, somehow, feel remarkably alien when tacked alongside “fine dining”. The tide might just be changing with Asaya Kitchen’s continued efforts at cooking up rather delicious menus composed, where possible, of sustainably sourced seafood like line-caught sea bass from Sai Kung, and local ingredients including Farmhouse Hong Kong-harvested baby corn, which are accredited by Rosewood Hong Kong’s Partners in Provenance programme. And it’s this plant-based mission that saw the restaurant’s remarkable collaboration with influential plant-based restaurant Eleven Madison Park in late 2023. Combined with its serene views of Victoria Harbour, this is one place to eat and feel at peace. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 172 Couscous Langoustine “club sandwich” Mediterranean octopus PRICE PER HEAD: HK$900 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Associazione Chianti Shop 2, 15 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3619 3360 associazionechianti.com AssociazioneChianti associazionechianti TATLER SAYS Black Sheep Restaurants’ answer to a Tuscan steakhouse honours the humble bovine and is a homage to Italy. Settle into the restaurant’s red banquettes by candlelit tables to take in the romantic ambience at dinner. Aiming to elevate humble cooking with careful execution, Associazione Chianti’s offerings celebrate all things steak, from Tuscan steak tartare to a variety of cuts worth salivating over, including the thickcut T-bone steak and bone-in rib-eye, both of which are wellmarbled and serve two. Diners can also get stuck into comforting classics such as the Tuscan bone broth with egg and Parmesan, and tagliatelle with porcini ragu. Save room for a wide range of wines to go with the steak and an impeccable meringue cake, in which discs of meringue are stacked high and sandwich sweet, fresh berries. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 • Bistecca alla Fiorentina Garganelli omaggio a Trattoria Cammillo Pollo al burro omaggio a Sostanza PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 35 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 173
ITALIAN Baci G/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2344 0005 lkfconcepts.com/pages/baci bacihk bacihk TATLER SAYS With a convenient location right in the heart of Central, it’s easy to see why Baci remains a firm favourite. Like a friendly neighbourhood trattoria, the openseating restaurant is casual, cool and relaxed, not to mention the authentic menu of classic Italian comforts that always hits the spot—especially the award-winning pizzas tossed and generously topped with gourmet ingredients of tantalising variety. There’s handmade pasta and indulgent antipasti of different kinds too, and an all-day snack menu of scrumptious cicchetti—small plates of Venetian-inspired bites—that go perfectly with classic cocktails or the popular happy hour, which runs every day from 3pm to 8pm. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Pizza Baci A’Sarciccia Calabrese PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 174 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN BluHouse G/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com bluhousehk bluhousehk TATLER SAYS Helmed by chef Giovanni Galeota, BluHouse brilliantly marries Italian vivacity with modern dining. Nestled in Victoria Dockside, the restaurant is a sunlit sanctuary offering spectacular harbour views and traditional Mediterranean-Italian dishes. Large plates such as the ragù pizza, lobster fettuccine, and crispy porchetta are given an innovative touch. The casual food hall is constantly buzzing with activity, reminiscent of a sundappled piazza—the ideal setting for relishing the convivial spirit and cuisine of Italy. Anticipate generous servings that are made for sharing. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Rigatoni alla Carbonara Ariccia-style roasted pork Stewed beef tripe, cannellini beans, parmesan cheese PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 175
ITALIAN Cantina Police Headquarters Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2848 3000 cantina.com.hk cantinahongkong cantinahongkong TATLER SAYS Housed in the former officer’s mess hall at Tai Kwun, hence the name, Cantina offers contemporary, trattoria-style dishes that give a taste of the length and breadth of the Italian peninsula. Cicchetti are a good place to start your culinary tour, before moving on to Emilian gnocco fritto or squid ink spaghetti with southern Tuscan seafood. End your journey in Treviso for tiramisu or Sicily for cannoli stuffed with ricotta and pistachio. Head chef Matteo Caripoli’s family recipe for lasagne is another must-try. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Breaded veal cutlet Spaghettoni with red prawn and burrata Cavatelli with braised pork ribs, beef and fennel sausage ragu PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 176 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Carbone 9/F, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2593 2593 carbone.com.hk carbonehk carbonehongkong TATLER SAYS Carbone harks back to mid-20th-century New York-Italian restaurants. As the only outpost outside the US, the Hong Kong location carries the legacy of iconic Italian-American establishments that offer a luxurious yet unassuming ambience. The restaurant has built its reputation on the bedrock of hearty dishes such as the cherished spicy vodka rigatoni and Mario’s meatballs. Attention to detail extends to the interior, which blends rustic charm with modern elegance. Leave space for a sweet indulgence at the end of the meal, as a cart brimming with desserts is wheeled out for diners to pick from. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2016 • Best Front Of House, 2015 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Spicy rigatoni vodka Veal parmesan Mario’s Meatballs PRICE PER HEAD: HK$900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 22-25 persons 177
ITALIAN Castellana 1/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3188 5028 castellanahongkong.com castellanahk castellanahk TATLER SAYS Piedmont means truffles: white, from the forests of Alba, when the season is right. Piedmont also happens to play host to a serious wine culture, with bottles upon bottles of Barbarescos and Barolos to show for it. At Castellana—the only Hong Kong restaurant to have a strictly Piedmontese theme— both are abundantly present, right alongside head chef Romeo Morelli’s modernised recipes in a lush, twostorey space conceived by interior designer JJ Acuña. Whether you’re seated by starchy white tablecloths or the marbled chef’s counter, you’ll undoubtedly be met by enormously indulgent courses like the button-shaped “Bottoni” ravioli filled generously with Norwegian king crab, tender bites of Fassona milk-fed veal, and chef Morelli’s crumbly bignola choux puffs filled to the brim with vanilla cream. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • River prawn tartare, lemon, morels Whole Brittany lobster, mushrooms, zabaione Oberto’s Fassona tenderloin PRICE PER HEAD: HK2,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 10-12 persons 178 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Ciak In The Kitchen Shop 327-333, 3/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2522 8869 ciakconcept.com ciakinthekitchen ciakinthekitchen TATLER SAYS Where to find the best pizza in Hong Kong is a hotly contested subject among every Italian expat and visitor, but all can agree that Ciak serves up a pretty respectable example: it’s no wonder it was honoured as the topranked pizzeria in Asia between 2020 and 2022 at the 50 Top Pizza Awards. Under the guidance of the venerable chef Umberto Bombana, Ciak’s executive chef Valentino Ugolini, the former sous chef at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, ensures the pizzas here are crisp and pillowy, the pasta is perfectly al dente, and each meal ticks all the boxes, always. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Sicilian red prawn fettuccine Tartufo nero pizza PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 4-6 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 179
ITALIAN Cucina 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, 3 Canton Road, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2113 0808 cucinahk.com cucinahk cucinahk TATLER SAYS At the Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Cucina walks a fine line to impress without trying too hard. The decor is polished yet unpretentious, the 13-page wine list suitably Italianheavy and chef Andrea Delzanno’s hearty Italian dishes are approachable yet innovative. Nab an in-demand window seat for stunning Victoria Harbour views. Time it right and you can enjoy the Symphony of Lights show before settling in for an Italian feast that includes classics and signatures like burrata, Parma ham and Kumato tomato salad, grilled Mediterranean octopus with seared scallops and mashed potatoes, and a perfectly al dente linguine with tiger prawns. If you ask ahead of time, you can request offmenu items. Complete the experience with a digestif or cigar on the atmospheric terrace. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 180 Smoked gold salmon loin, black truffle, Oscietra caviar Grilled Angus beef tenderloin, creamy spinach, morels Grilled Australian M5 Wagyu tomahawk PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN The Dining Room G/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com thediningroomhongkong TATLER SAYS A plush curtain separates the bustle of BluHouse from The Dining Room’s enclosed refinement, with seating perched in between a buzzy open kitchen and a handsome cocktail bar where 40-yearold spirits are stirred and poured. Where BluHouse champions accessibility, The Dining Room relishes in the exceptional, with Neapolitan chef de cuisine Giovanni Galeota leaning heavily on deeply indulgent courses like milk-fed veal tenderloin and homemade stuffed agnolotti, served alongside a sommelier’s choice of unbelievable vintages from a rich diversity of Italian appellations. If it’s an education on the ins and outs of Italian gastronomy you’re after, look no further. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Oven-baked Atlantic branzino Agnolotti pasta with farmyard Genovese ragù Roasted organic yellow chicken PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 14 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 181
ITALIAN Estro 2/F, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9380 0161 estro.hk estro.hk estro.hk TATLER SAYS With a whimsical, maximalist interior by André Fu and ex-8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Macau chef Antimo Maria Merone at the pass, it’s hard to go wrong with a fine Italian dining experience at Estro. Neapolitan cuisine is reimagined as never before by Merone’s hand—abstracted and concentrated until it becomes the picture of refinement on the plate. Seasonal dishes can range from cuttlefish with capers, almond milk and oregano, to the tenderest cut of lamb with zucchini “trombetta” and Swiss chard, but signatures like the bottoni and pistachio ice cream stay on the menu for good reason. A 1,000-strong list of Italian wines is perfect for complementing any occasion. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Cuttlefish, capers, almond milk, oregano Seasonal bottoni Pigeon, Savoy cabbage, hazelnut AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Best Pastry Chef, 2024 • Best Interior Design, 2022 • 182 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 6-10 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Falcone Shop 1082, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2631 1190 pizzeriafalcone.com falconehk TATLER SAYS Falcone has never proclaimed authenticity when it comes to their Napoletana inspirations. In fact, the opposite is true: they “don’t do” authentic Neapolitan pizza. They also don’t do iced lemon tea, hot water or cappuccinos. Their wine list is almost insouciantly compiled. The music might be dialled just a touch loud. But what they do do rather beautifully is capture a shade of Naples—the chaos, the beauty, the generosity—and bottle it up within a sumptuous, eclectically accentuated corner of IFC Mall. You must order the surprisingly delicate carpaccio di gamberi rossi and the signature red-sauced, black-olived Alici Fung pizza, perfectly pockmarked with pockets of char straight out of a handmade Pavesi brick oven. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Pacchianella Linguine alla Luciana Alici Fung PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 183
ITALIAN Fiata Pizza 2 Staunton Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6032 6626 fiatapizza.com fiatapizza fiatapizza TATLER SAYS Formerly at Kytaly, chef Salvatore Fiata might just make the best pizzas in all of Hong Kong. His menu offers a hearty collection of antipasti—burrata, cold cuts, tomato soup and montanara (fried pizza dough smeared with various soft cheeses and toppings), alongside 22 varieties of perfectly baked Neapolitan pizza. These range from a classic capricciosa (artichoke, pancetta, olives) to a summery porcini (mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella) and a decadent burrata cream margherita. The gelato is homemade and the cake of the day comes directly from Naples. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Classica Diavola by Giovanni Estate PRICE PER HEAD: HK$300 184 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Grissini 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2584 7722 hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com grissinihk TATLER SAYS Grissini gets its name from the freshly baked Piedmont breadsticks that the restaurant is justifiably famous for, but its focus is further south, in Italy’s flavourful Campania region. You will find giant Amalfi lemons, piennolo tomatoes and creamy Andria burrata, alongside classics such as candele alla Genovese, Tuscan wild boar pappardelle and a decadent, amarettosoaked tiramisu. Chef de cuisine Valerio Giuseppe Mandile leads the team, and has brought a contemporary simplicity to the dishes, letting the flavours of the premium ingredients shine. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Slow-cooked veal loin, tuna sauce, black pepper Spaghetti, raw purple prawn, puttanesca sauce, lime zest Roman clay pot baked chicken, morel mushroom, potatoes PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 16 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 185
ITALIAN Octavium 8/F, One Chinachem Central, 22 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2111 9395 octavium.com.hk Octavium octavium8 TATLER SAYS For an upscale Italian dining experience, this elegant yet easygoing restaurant is a perennial favourite, serving inspired Italian dishes such as beef tartare on brioche Braciola-style (an Italian roulade); red sea bream with wild mushrooms; and chestnut gelato floating in chantilly and chestnut cream. Everything is beautifully presented— and with a wine list as extensive as Octavium’s, it makes sense to go for a pairing. There are only a few widely spaced tables, which makes it the ideal spot for an intimate tête-à-tête. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Slow-cooked milk-fed veal cheek Red sea bream with morels Smoked Mayura beef tenderloin PRICE PER HEAD: HK1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 6-14 persons 186 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Perla Shop B1, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, West Kowloon, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3618 7880 perlarestauranthk.com perlarestauranthk TATLER SAYS While we’re many nautical miles and several seas away from his coastal Italian upbringing, when an unfettered vista of the ocean beckons, as the jaw-dropping view at Perla does, chef Fabiano Palombini’s fine seafood courses simply make sense. Highlights from the appropriately named “Above The Sea” degustation menu include cured striped jack accompanied by cucumber, green apple and caviar, and the chef’s signature Virtù, a precisely presented mix of short pasta and bites of sea urchin and lobster. And considering the provenance of the restaurant, only a glass of vino biancho (there are four pages of it) will do. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Alaskan king crab, zabaione, celeriac Virtù: mix of short pasta, selection of seafood Wild pink sea bream, pumpkin, vegetable jus PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 187
ITALIAN Posso G/F, 12 Kau U Fong, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9870 0898 possohk.com possohk posso_hk TATLER SAYS Born from an online handmade pasta shop during the pandemic, Posso seamlessly transitioned into a physical restaurant led by Hong Kong native Max Wong, and has done so with aplomb, winning over diners with precisely executed dishes that don’t break the bank. The menu, inspired by Venetian cicchetti sharing plates, encapsulates lively, Italianinfluenced flavours in approachable and moreish dishes like chickpea panisse, the decadent agnolotti and charcoal-grilled M9 Wagyu, but the culinary line-up often changes with the seasons thanks to the use of premium, locally sourced ingredients. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chickpea panisse Cavatelli with seaweed and smoked sardines Three-day-aged threadfin in potato mousse PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 188 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Testina 3/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2798 0668 testina.hk testinahk testinahk TATLER SAYS At Testina, the adventurous trattoria spirit is reimagined for Hong Kong, celebrating the unpretentious yet bold flavours of nose-to-tail dining, a philosophy that has become synonymous with its parent restaurant Trippa in Milan. Oftoverlooked cuts of meat are showcased on the menu, including deepfried tripe, veal tongue tonnata and pig’s head with salsa verde, while classics such as the homemade tagliatelle with duck ragù and hazelnut cake with a velvety Piedmont hazelnut zabaione are executed with a finesse that speaks to the restaurant’s commitment to quality. The dining experience is complemented by an array of predominantly Italian wines and refreshing cocktails that pair well with the dishes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2024 • Fried honeycomb beef tripe and rosemary Pig’s head terrine with salsa verde Tagliatelle with duck ragù PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 189
ITALIAN Tosca di Angelo 102/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, West Kowloon, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2263 2270 ritzcarlton.com toscadiangelo toscadiangelo TATLER SAYS Chef Angelo Aglianó trained under Joël Robuchon and it shows in elegant plates which celebrate his homeland of Sicily. From the off, it’s clear that the seriously high-rise restaurant that bears his name continues to raise the bar. The service and sommeliers are firstclass and touches like the olive oil selection are thoughtful. Mazara red prawns with fennel foam and Kaluga caviar sing of the Mediterranean, while tuna tartare with marinated eggplant and Hokkaido sea urchin shows that Aglianó is just as happy working with the finest Asian ingredients. Beautifully crafted desserts ensure perfectly sweet endings in this special spot high above the city. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Blue lobster with Lorenzini melon, confit cherry tomatoes and Kaluga caviar Mezzi Paccheri Mancini with Sicilian red shrimp and basil pesto sauce Red star garoupa in Matalotta fish soup PRICE PER HEAD: HK2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 16 persons 190 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Tuber Shop 113A, Level 1, K11 Musea, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2133 4743 octavo.com.hk tuberumbertobombana tuber_umberto_bombana TATLER SAYS Simply follow your nose to the right place: chef Umberto Bombana, also known as the “King of Truffles,” is the mastermind behind Tuber, where the prized fungus takes centre stage across the à la carte and degustation menus. Each dish is meticulously curated by resident chef Roland Schuller and executive chef Keith Yam Ka-Lok, featuring standout ingredients such as shima-aji sashimi, Brittany blue lobster, and carabineros red prawn. Oenophiles are well catered to, thanks to a wine list that offers prestigious vintages from various regions across Italy. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Linguine “Gentile” Half baby chicken alla Provenzale PRICE PER HEAD: HK2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 16 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 191
ITALIAN Vista 29/F & 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2778 3255 vistahk.com vistahongkong vistahongkong TATLER SAYS Taking up the highceilinged space where Aqua once held court for years, Vista’s jawdropping doublestorey venue presents a hearty Italian food and drink concept to match the decadent views. Think crispy veal Milanese, Fassona beef tartare, and saltbaked seabass—all served with a healthy dose of theatricality at your table. Part of the brunch crowd or simply craving some liquid courage? Head upstairs to enjoy even greater views and tunes alongside classic Italian cocktail bar vibes—the bar is inspired by the original Camparino Galleria in Milan, so expect plenty of Campari spritzes and Negronis while you’re there. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Saffron and Italian sausage risotto Fassona beef tartare BBQ pulled pork maritozzi sandwich PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 192 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE The Araki G/F, FWD House 1881, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3988 0000 fwdhouse1881.com/the-araki thearakihk TATLER SAYS Nestled within a heritage building, The Araki offers an exceptional omakase experience that is one of the most highly regarded in the city. Helmed by Mitsuhiro Araki, acclaimed in both Tokyo and London, The Araki is the embodiment of traditional Edomae sushi. Each piece is comprised of the freshest ingredients, sourced locally and from Japan, with Araki favouring local fish, killed using the ikejime technique to faithfully present it with its natural flavour. The careful calibration of the temperature and density of the rice according to the cut of fish reflects the chef’s understanding of the art of sushi and his dedication to the craft. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Mitsuhiro Araki’s tuna nigiri showcase Edomae sushi incorporating local Hong Kong ingredients Steamed abalone with bird’s nest and fish maw PRICE PER HEAD: HK$4,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 193
JAPANESE Birdie 9/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2789 2881 298hk.com/birdie yakitoribirdie yakitoribirdie TATLER SAYS It’s evident from its name: Birdie specialises in traditional yakitori, with additional options of beef, pork, and vegetables available on the reasonably priced menu of this vibrant Japanese izakaya. But it’s the bird (chicken, specifically) that’s done exceptionally well; lightly seasoned and charred over a charcoal grill anchored at the centre of the restaurant, diligently fanned by the skilled chefs throughout the evening. While more obvious orders are the wing or thigh, lesser-known parts of the bird—and they offer a full variety, including hatsumoto (muscle attached to the heart)—are also worth exploring, as are the flavoursome sides that serve as palate cleansers between toothsome bites. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Binchotan-grilled yakitori Chicken soup somen Potato salad PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 194 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Censu 28-30 Gough Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2997 7009 censu.net censuhk censu_hk TATLER SAYS At Censu, chef Shun Sato effortlessly weaves the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi into the fabric of his restaurant. The name “Censu” cleverly plays on the Japanese word sensu, meaning “folding fan” (a symbol which forms its logo), while embracing a broader “sense” of lifestyle—a fusion of culinary, fashion, music and design senses that form the core of the restaurant’s ethos. The interiors draw inspiration from the house of Sato’s grandmother in Sendai, encapsulating the principle of appreciating imperfect beauty and simplicity. The menu is a reflection of his culinary prowess, blending traditional izakaya-style cooking with a delicately refined touch. From sashimi delicacies like oysters with yuzu sanbaizu to show-stopping dishes like crab miso udon, each creation is crafted with precision and a deep appreciation for the art of Japanese cuisine. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • • Squid sashimi with fermented cabbage Zucchini flower tempura Unigiri 195
JAPANESE Decree by T 22-23/F, FOCO, 46-48 Cochrane Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9822 7957 decree-by-t.com decreebyt decreebyt TATLER SAYS With only a few seats at the bar, diners are privy to an exclusive interaction with the chef, who masterfully orchestrates the omakase menu while narrating the stories and inspirations behind each creation. Complementing the culinary experience is a curated selection of sake, each chosen to accentuate the diverse flavours of the dishes. True to its innovative spirit, the restaurant reimagines traditional Japanese delicacies, infusing them with multicultural intrigue. These unexpected couplings, drawn from a spectrum of global cuisine, with Japanese and local ingredients, bring a freshness to the honoured traditions of Japanese fare. SIGNATURE DISHES • Seasonal kaiseki PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,200 196 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Enishi G/F, The Strand, 49 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2626 9096 enishi-hk.net enishihongkong enishi_hk TATLER SAYS Following the success of Censu, Japanese chef Shun Sato opened Enishi with two other chefs, husband-andwife team Toru Takano and Ami Hamasaki. The 23-seat modern teppanyaki restaurant boasts an intimate interior with a focus on traditional wabisabi while retaining contemporary touches. The minimalistic design brings homely vibes devoid of contrived overdressing. But Enishi belies its simplicity with a theatrical display of Takano and Hamasaki’s teppanyaki skills as they prepare seasonal ingredients from Miyagi Prefecture, including sashimi, Wagyu beef and the season’s best seafood. Enishi delivers a fitting update to traditional Japanese teppanyaki. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Snow crab chawanmushi Whole Ezo abalone A5 Wagyu tenderloin PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,200 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 197
JAPANESE Fukuro 1-5 Elgin Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2333 8841 fukuro.com.hk fukurohk fukurohk TATLER SAYS The untrained eye could easily overlook Fukuro’s dark and mysterious storefront. A staple on Elgin Street since 2018, this somewhat hidden izakaya serves up polished Japanese bites until late. Inside, its buzzing energy will lift your spirits in time to devour their range of Japanese snacks, sashimi, tempura, robata meats and desserts. Try their famed sushi taco, crispy caramel butter corn and kimchi snow crab uni miso udon. To go with their food menu, they also offer a range of Japanese beverages including sake, shochu, highballs, awamori, Japanese whisky and cocktails. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Drunken clams in umeshu Saikyo miso black cod robata Unagi kamemeshi hotpot rice PRICE PER HEAD: HK$700 198 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Fumi 6/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2328 3302 lkfconcepts.com FumiHK fumilkf TATLER SAYS Most Japanese restaurants focus on perfecting one specific aspect of the country’s diverse styles of cuisine, but from its perch in Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower, Fumi bucks the trend by offering a little bit of everything. An extensive range of menus, all with a focus on seasonality, offers everything from omakase and kaiseki feasts to all-you-caneat dinners and limitedtime brunches on the weekend, themed around premium ingredients like hairy crab coral and snow crab. Of course, there are plenty of à la carte options too, and these plates—think sashimi, sushi, tempura and sukiyaki— are well-executed and beautifully put together. The food is backed by a tasteful, Zen-inspired interior that includes high ceilings, light wood and intriguing art. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 • Hokkaido snow crab, fresh soy milk skin and sea urchin Miyazaki beef sukiyaki Hokkaido sea urchin sushi PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 32 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 199
JAPANESE Godenya UG/F, 182 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6713 5917 godenya.com gossy_godenya TATLER SAYS Tucked away in a narrow alley, Godenya is chef Goshima Shinya’s temple of sake, where authenticity and charm blend seamlessly. The highly seasonal menu boasts Japanese dishes, occasionally infused with a Hong Kong twist, creating a culinary journey rarely experienced elsewhere. At Godenya, the food and drink inform each other in closer fashion than most other restaurants, thanks to Shinya being both the chef and sommelier. The dimly lit, six-seat establishment offers a single set menu with fixed sake pairings, revealing the incredible versatility of the brew. The eatery transcends mere dining; it’s an exploration of flavours and an immersion into Goshima’s world of passion and expertise. SIGNATURE DISHES • Seasonal kaiseki AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2018-2019, 2022 • 200 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE I M Teppanyaki 1/F, Golden Wheel Plaza, 68 Electric Road, Tin Hau, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2570 7088 imteppanyaki.com TATLER SAYS I M Teppanyaki has become a standardbearer for teppanyaki in Hong Kong. Chef Lawrence Mok worked at lauded establishments such as Inakaya before setting out on his own a decade ago. The main dining room is all dark stone and timber, with guests seated around a large, U-shaped counter. Set menus cater to different budgets and food preferences, with à la carte also available. Premium seafood and meat from Japan and France are cooked on the hotplate in front of you and can range from abalone in liver sauce to A5 Wagyu simply grilled and served with garlic chips. A glass-walled wine fridge indicates that oenophiles are well catered for here. SIGNATURE DISHES • • A5 Wagyu tenderloin Amadai with anglerfish liver sauce PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 201
JAPANESE Inakaya Shop A, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2972 2666 jcgroup.hk/restaurants/inakaya inakaya.hongkong inakaya_hk TATLER SAYS Perched atop the 101st floor of the International Commerce Centre, Inakaya is a culinary retreat in the clouds. The minimalist Japanese interior allows the views to take centre stage—a window table booking is recommended for the best seats in the house. The menu offers a rotating selection that keeps pace with the freshest catches and seasonal ingredients. Drawing upon 40 years of culinary history rooted in Tokyo, Inakaya takes pride in being a versatile dining destination and serves a medley of Japanese cuisines including robatayaki, teppanyaki, washoku (traditional Japanese) and kaiseki, along with sushi and sashimi, all under one roof, while maintaining the highest level of quality. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Supreme assorted sashimi platter Teppanyaki baked rice with black truffle and uni Japanese black hair Wagyu roll AWARDS: Best Front Of House, 2013 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 12-30 persons 202 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Kaen Teppanyaki Forty Five, 44/F, Gloucester Tower, Landmark, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2155 9191 kaenteppanyaki.com kaenteppanyaki TATLER SAYS The art of teppanyaki reaches a new level with the arrival of Kaen Teppanyaki, located atop Landmark’s dazzling multivenue dining destination Forty-Five. Its name means “flame” in Japanese, and just as billed, diners get to appreciate various flame-tinged teppan theatrics and intricate knifework in an open setting— all to spotlight head chef Yoshiyuki Sato’s selection of premium Wagyu cuts and farmto-table produce that’s bought at auction and flown in daily. A range of lunch and dinner menus are available, featuring both teppan and binchotan charcoal cooking, while executives on the go can enjoy elaborate bento boxes in the lounge section. A private teppan room seating 11 is available for more intimate bookings. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Best Interior Design, 2024 • Ichiban dashi soup with grilled seasonal fish Premium Wagyu cuts Mont Blanc PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,100 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 11 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 203
JAPANESE Kanesaka Hong Kong 5/F, CCB Tower, 3 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2117 1175 laisundining.com kanesakahk TATLER SAYS Kanesaka Hong Kong brings the ultimate Edomae sushi experience to Hong Kong, where head chef Seiji Taniguchi, a protégé of Shinji Kanesaka, helms the kitchen and imports the best-quality seafood from Japan, with listed geographic region information readily available for its guests. Brightly lit, with a large single piece of hinoki wood spread across the main dining room, this 20-seat sushi restaurant also takes pride in its airy ambience while guests watch chefs steadily perform the art of sushi-making. Sushi aficionados should opt for the dinner omakase menu, where Taniguchi delivers sushi made from fresh ocean catches. Don’t miss the sizeable tuna maki at the end and the popular sake pairing for the complete Kanesaka experience. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Octopus Abalone Akami, chutoro and toro roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 4 persons 204 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Kappo Zuicho G/F, The Mercer, 29 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2156 1883 zuicho-kappo.com ZuichoHK zuicho TATLER SAYS Kappo means “to cut and cook” in Japanese. At Zuicho, that translates to a casual yet refined dining experience where guests get to watch and interact with the chef as he prepares hot, cold, raw and cooked dishes. Seasonality is key to kappo cuisine, and the omakase menu changes frequently depending on what’s available from Japan. One constant is the Satsuma Wagyu fillet, which might be grilled over binchotan coal, deep-fried or cooked shabu-shabu style. Every meal also ends with takikomi gohan, a claypot rice dish where the toppings change with the seasons. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Satsuma Wagyu fillet Takikomi gohan PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 6 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 205
JAPANESE Kyoto Joe 23/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2804 6800 lkfconcepts.com KyotoJoeLKF kyotojoelkf TATLER SAYS Kyoto Joe has been dishing up palatepleasing Japanese dishes and friendly service for over 20 years. Its most recent incarnation is in a high-flying position in California Tower and offers a welcoming, izakaya-style experience. Interiors are dressed in the striking crimson from the iconic torii gates of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine and infused with light thanks to floor-toceiling windows. Fresh ingredients permeate the creative Japanese dishes here, which include everything from elegantly plated sushi and sashimi to robatayaki skewers and hot dishes—the Miyazaki Wagyu sirloin shouldn’t be missed. Pull up a seat at the robatayaki and tempura bar to watch the chefs in action, and pair the food with a selection from the thoughtful drinks list that includes superior sakes and wines, and tailor-made cocktails. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Miyazaki Wagyu tataki Baked lobster tail Chicken thigh robatayaki PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8-12 persons 206 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Nagamoto 8/F, 18 On Lan Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5500 6063 nagamoto.hk Nagamoto nagamotohk TATLER SAYS In an ode to Japanese shun cuisine, which uses hyper-fresh ingredients, Kyotoborn chef Teruhiku Nagamoto changes the menu at his eponymous restaurant not just seasonally but every month. There are just 32 seats set around a counter for up-close views of the action, and just one omakase menu is ever available. Expect options like Seko crab with starchy crab roe sauce, steamed mochi rice with Anago eel, and elegant platters of sea bream and tuna donburi sashimi. If you want to push the boat out, premium ingredients, such as Japanese abalone and Ise lobster, can be added to the menu on request. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Katsuobushi nimonowan Shun kaiseki PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 10 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 207
JAPANESE Ronin G/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2547 5263 roninhk.com ROHongKong ronin_hk TATLER SAYS It’s hard to believe that Ronin is now a decade old, but it does mean that nabbing one of just 14 seats is slightly easier these days. When you do get in, kick off with one of their 100 Japanese whiskies before perusing the largely seafood-dominated menu that tempts you to order everything. Beer-battered amadai with maple Kewpie, clams with sake katsu and milk bread, or pork belly skewers with ginger are just some of the temptations, while their seasonal sashimi and hand rolls would easily make the grade in Tokyo. Be sure to chat to the knowledgeable and friendly servers, who are only too happy to impart advice. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Stuffed wings with cuttlefish and curry salt Dry-aged threadfin bream with mandarin miso Flagrant Hot Sauce clams with sake kasu and milk bread AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2018-2020 • Best Cocktails, 2014 • 208 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Ryota Kappou Modern 21/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2628 1899 ryota.hk Ryota18OnLan ryotakappoumodern TATLER SAYS Head chef Ryota Kanesawa’s unwavering dedication to maximising the flavours of each seasonal ingredient is infused into every dish at Ryota Kappou Modern—a result of his illustrious career to date, starting in the Ritz-Carlton Osaka Hanagatami and subsequently under the tutelage of several Michelin-starred chefs across London, Italy and Hong Kong. Diners will instantly notice the razor-sharp attention to detail and his joy for crafting feasts for the senses, all while respecting the innately Japanese awareness of the shifting seasons. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Foie gras monaka Seasonal sashimi Wagyu and sea urchin rice bowl PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 209
JAPANESE Sushi Fujimoto 6/F, 48 Cochrane Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6013 2900 sushi-fujimoto sushifujimoto TATLER SAYS A newcomer amid an ever-growing portfolio of traditional Edomae joints, Sushi Fujimoto opens on a steady footing with alreadyestablished fans and Kenichi Fujimoto at its helm—a master in his own right, having spent over a decade working with top sushi maestros like Shinji Kanesaka and Takashi Saito. His eponymous sushi bar keeps to classic conventions of omakase dining with an intimate sushi counter of only nine seats and a regularly changing seasonal menu executed with expert precision. That being said, Fujimoto also carves a space of his own with a warm and amiable demeanour and genuine hospitality, setting this spot well apart. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sushi and sashimi selection Sardine roll Tuna hand roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 6 persons 210 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Sushi Haré G/F, 29 Bridges Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3008 4606 sushi_hare TATLER SAYS It’s notoriously difficult to book, but once you step inside, you can expect an experience that’s a cut above most omakase meals in the city. In his eight-seat venue, chef Motoharu Inazuka orchestrates an Edomae-style menu, a dance of flavours accentuating the natural essence of each seasonal ingredient. The sushi rice, an unsung hero, is a testament to Inazuka’s precision, with every grain embodying the right balance of firmness, temperature, and vinegar acidity. From the delicate hotaru ika of spring to winter’s indulgent ankimo, Sushi Haré offers a culinary odyssey that makes the reservation wait truly worth it. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Sushi and sashimi selection Seasonal shirako and ankimo PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,200 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 211
JAPANESE Sushi Kumogaku 8/F, Lower Block, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6596 9170 sushikamogaku.com sushikumogaku sushikumogaku TATLER SAYS Hong Kong-born chef Chan Wing-Kin is the force behind one of the city’s most popular Japanese restaurants. His menus are rooted in the traditional Edomae sushi, using flavours and techniques dating back to the early 17th century, with a few modern innovations, of course. For lunch, there is a light nigiri omakase. Dinner is a more elaborate affair, featuring a near endless array of hot and cold delicacies—sweet hirame, glistening aoriika cuttlefish, buttery aji horse mackerel— served with friendly finesse. There’s also an enticing selection of wine and sake to accompany. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sushi and sashimi selection Ankimo puff Kegani crab paella PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,700 212 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Sushi Mamoru Shop 2, G/F, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2133 5700 sushimamoru.com SushiMamoruHongKong sushimamoru TATLER SAYS Exclusivity is guaranteed at this minimalist sanctuary panelled in Japanese hinoki and ginkgo wood, as there are only 12 seats: eight at the bar and four in a private room. Here, chef Hirofumi Chiba— a third-generation sushi master who grew up in his grandfather’s restaurant before training at renowned Tokyo institutions Tsukiji Sushi Iwa and Zorokuzushi Minami— offers an exquisite sushi omakase in the Edomae tradition. Along with his full menu of 20-plus dishes, there is also an abridged version for lunch. Across both menus, fish is line-caught, fresh ingredients are strictly seasonal and the dining experience is rarefied. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Oyster sushi Akagai Kanpyoˉ roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,700 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 4 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 213
JAPANESE Sushi Saito 45/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2527 0811 fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/sushi-saito Sushi-Saito TATLER SAYS On the 45th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, a corridor adorned with precious Japanese pottery leads to two sushi counters, where chef Takashi Saito’s award-winning brand of Edomae sushi holds court. Sushi Saito has been dubbed “the best sushi restaurant in the world”, and at its Hong Kong outpost, chef Masashi Kubota meticulously embodies the essence of authentic Edomae sushi: the finest seafood, flown in daily, meets the world’s best sushi rice, cooked in Kagoshima spring water and infused with Sushi Saito’s special vinegar. Here, every practised movement by the chefs is infused with precision in a nod to the pedigree that this institution operates at. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Abalone Sea urchin Futomaki PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8 persons 214 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Sushi Shikon 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2643 6800 sushi-shikon.com SushiShikonHongKong sushishikon TATLER SAYS As the first overseas opening by Masahiro Yoshitake, whose eponymous Tokyo restaurant represents the pinnacle of Edomae sushi, Sushi Shikon’s Hong Kong outpost is helmed by his trusted lieutenant Yoshiharu Kakinuma, who fashions exquisite sushi using the best seafood and other ingredients from Japan. The ancient hinoki wood counter seats a maximum of eight lucky guests per session, making this one of the city’s most exclusive, and expensive, dining experiences. Consider going for lunch, when the omakase menu is less pricey than at dinner. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Tender octopus Abalone with liver sauce Grilled freshwater eel PRICE PER HEAD: HK$4,400 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 215
JAPANESE Sushi Zo LG1/F, Block 01, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2884 0114 sushizohongkong.com sushizohongkong sushizohongkong TATLER SAYS Chef-patron Keizo Seki’s stars might have been earned in the City of Angels, but his ambitions extended much further. From New York to Bangkok and most recently Cambodia, Sushi Zo’s world tour has seemingly just begun—and with good reason. Much like others of its calibre, Sushi Zo offers a no-nonsense, constantly rotating omakase procession, with 12-course lunches and 18-course dinners composed of the freshest Japanese produce flown in daily. Unlike its counterparts, a warmer, softer, ittai-kan mouthfeel is favoured behind Sushi Zo’s counter, alongside executive chef Michikazu Yoshida’s surprisingly unconventional sequence, which oscillates between hot and cold; mild and strong; and rich and refreshingly light. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Kuruma ebi Grilled sea urchin Fatty tuna sushi PRICE PER HEAD: HK2,800 216 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Tempura Araki 5/F, 10 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5138 4298 Tempura Araki HK tempura_arakihk TATLER SAYS One of Hokkaido’s most celebrated tempura restaurants, Tempura Araki opened quietly in Central but still gained popularity and a growing waiting list. The intimate dining establishment is minimalist in design, with a sixseat kitchen bar where the battered items are prepared à la minute by head chef Takahito Sato in an omakase format. Predominantly featuring seafood and fresh vegetables, Tempura Araki’s tempura batter is light and ethereal, thinly coating the ingredients, which are deep-fried until the exterior turns a pale golden colour with a beautiful crunch. Don’t miss the selections from the add-on menu, with bigfin reed squid, kuruma prawn and conger eel among the top choices. The sea urchin on tempura seaweed is another bestselling signature. Tempura Araki also offers a lunch set with rotating varieties of tempura, complete with a humble selection of sake and umeshu, which are available by the bottle and the glass. PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 SIGNATURE DISHES • • • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Sea urchin tempura Shrimp head Shiba shrimp tempura rice bowl 217
JAPANESE Teppanroom Mezzanine Level, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2584 7722 hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com/restaurants-and-bars/teppanroom GrandHyattHongKong grandhyatthongkong TATLER SAYS Guests have to make their way through Kaetsu at the Grand Hyatt to find this hidden gem of a restaurant. Serving just 16 guests around a teppanyaki grill, Teppanroom is less Benihana and more intimate Japanese dining—though its application of French cooking techniques to jet-fresh Japanese ingredients is decidedly fusion in flavour. Performance is key and guests can enjoy watching chefs transform raw ingredients into delightful morsels like sustainable Patagonian toothfish papillote and live blue lobster with santouna, artichoke, samphire and lobster butter. Those looking to round out their meal can also order more traditional Japanese plates from sister restaurant Kaetsu and pair the food with a selection of sakes or wines from the respectable drinks list. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sustainable Patagonian toothfish papillote Live Brittany blue lobster Seasonal fruit flambé PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 16 persons 218 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Teppanyaki Mihara Goten 3/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5394 3689 goten.hk goten.hk TATLER SAYS Granted, teppan restaurants abound in Hong Kong but Teppanyaki Mihara Goten sets out to be different with the added element of kappo cuisine. Behind the 14-seater counter that curves inward to a single teppan grill, chef Terufumi Mihara creatively experiments and expands upon his “Wa Modern” vision, which blends tradition with innovation for dishes that break away from typical teppan staples. His clever creations often take on influences from his diverse background in French, Italian and Chinese cooking, like the budding favourite of grilled king crab crêpe, where succulent crab is folded into a light, crispy batter. Creative, Japanese-style cocktails are available from sister bar Takumi Mixology Salon next door— or just stop by after dinner. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Grilled Australian lobster with Hollandaise sauce Ezo abalone with abalone liver sauce Thick-cut A5 Kumamoto Wagyu tenderloin 219
JAPANESE Tokio Joe G/F, 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2525 1889 lkfconcepts.com/pages/tokio-joe tokiojoelkf tokiojoelkf TATLER SAYS It might be from the decades of experience—Tokio Joe has been around since 1995, after all—but somehow, this speakeasystyle izakaya, slipped between raucous bars along the busiest strip of Lan Kwai Fong, succeeds in maintaining a sense of comfort the instant you step between the wooden sliding doors. It’s no wonder they’ve built up a loyal following through the years. Here, it’s Japanese favourites done with a creative twist, including sushi and sashimi freshly prepared by experienced chefs behind the counter. Those craving familiar comforts will be satisfied with the extensive choice, from creative rolls to crunchy tempura and grilled plates that pair perfectly with the extensive menu of Japanese craft cocktails and sake selection. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Spicy toro tartare Dynamite roll LKF roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 220 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Toritama G/F, 2 Glenealy, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2388 7717 toritama.hk toritamahk toritamahk TATLER SAYS At Toritama, every part of the chicken is savoured. Hailing from Tokyo, this yakitori spot breaks down the chicken into 28 parts, then skewers and cooks each perfectly cut piece of chicken over charcoal embers. The result is succulent skewered chicken pieces, ranging from meatballs and thighs to soft bone and chicken crowns. Larger plates and other bites are also available to order, such as donburi rice bowls, onigiri and desserts. Order the omakase set to try the chef’s top selection of chicken and vegetable skewers. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chicken crown Chicken oyster Oyakodon PRICE PER HEAD: HK900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 7-9 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 221
JAPANESE Wagyumafia G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2608 0677 wagyumafia.hk wagyumafiahk wagyumafiahk TATLER SAYS Wagyumafia, the epitome of lavish, meat-heavy dining, redefines the gyukatsu sando in addition to its hyper-exclusive Wagyu tasting menu experience. Founded by self-taught chef Hisato Hamada and entrepreneur Takafumi Horie, Wagyumafia elevates the art of beef with its signature chateaubriand cut from the coveted Ozaki Wagyu breed in Miyazaki. The 18-seat, counterstyle establishment is perhaps most well known for its signature gyukatsu sando featuring Miyazaki beef that melts in your mouth, complemented by uni, truffle, caviar and lavish gold flakes. The restaurant follows an omakase format amped up with thumping hip-hop and Instagram-worthy presentation. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Wagyu katsu sando Wagyumafia sushi cask Wagyu and Hokkaido sea urchin PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 222 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Yakiniku Ushio G/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2328 2318 yakiniku-ushio.com.hk Yakiniku Ushio HK yakinikuushiohk TATLER SAYS Japanese grilled meats are the name of the game at Yakiniku Ushio. This reputed Fukuoka restaurant is best known for a huge open-grill kitchen where the chefs prepare numerous cuts of prized Shinmura Wagyu beef, Kurabata pork and vegetables in à la carte or omakase formats. During the day, however, the restaurant also offers plenty of set meals, including some reasonably priced lunches. Despite the beef-heavy focus, Yakiniku Ushio aims to be inclusive with a non-beef tasting menu that sees the likes of poultry and seafood grilled with the same care and attentiveness as the prized red meats. Top sakes, French wines and Japanese whisky and gin are poured here. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Wagyu and sea urchin hand roll Assorted Wagyu platter Wagyu curry rice PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 6-10 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 223
JAPANESE Yardbird G/F, Shops A and B, Winsome House, 154-158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2547 9273 yardbirdrestaurant.com yardbirdrestaurant yardbirdyakitori TATLER SAYS Since its establishment in 2011, Yardbird has garnered local and international acclaim, and for good reason— the contemporary izakaya, co-founded by chef Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang, offers a warm and convivial atmosphere, blending impeccable service with a diverse selection of high-quality food and drinks. You’ll have to arrive early to sample all of the 20-plus types of skewers featuring every part of the threeyellow local chicken, including rare cuts like thyroid and ventricle. Complement your meal with a tumbler or two from the extensive list of Japanese whiskies. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Sweetcorn tempura Korean fried cauliflower Chicken meatball PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 224 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Zest By Konishi 28 & 29/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2715 0878 zestbykonishihk.com zestbykonishi zestbykonishihk TATLER SAYS At Zest, contemporary French techniques meld seamlessly with Japanese flair, with a particular attention to seasonal Asian ingredients, such as roast three-yellow chicken with yellow wine espuma and pepper sauce, or cod shirako with sherry vinegar sauce. Here you get the luxury of distinct views and ambiences: on the 28th floor, you’ll be able to relish the tasting menu as you watch chefs at work—including the chef-proprietor Mitsuru Konishi, who has been a force to be reckoned with since his time at Tokyo’s L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and in Paris’ legendary Taillevent. Upstairs on the 29th floor, you’re at eye level with the clouds, and the views are best to be enjoyed with a craft cocktail or two at sunset. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Ping Yuen chicken Hida beef Wellington Deep-fried eel spring roll PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 225
JAPANESE Zoku 2/F, The Hari Hong Kong, 330 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2129 0388 thehari.com zokuhk zoku.hk TATLER SAYS Taking up residence in the chic quarters of The Hari Hong Kong in bustling Wan Chai, Zoku makes its mark as a modern restaurant and bar, skilfully blending the subtlety of Japanese cuisine with western flair. Here, find a harmonious meld of traditional rolls, nigiri, and sauced-up sashimi with a twist of contemporary flavours, as well as classic izakaya-style small bites. The dining experience is elevated by an urban oasis of lush foliage on the expansive, stretched balcony—an ideal spot for savouring delightful bites and sipping alfresco cocktails during the city’s cooler months. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Toro tartare Wagyu sando Various sushi and sashimi PRICE PER HEAD: HK$900 226 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
KOREAN Hansik Goo 1/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2798 8768 hansikgoo.hk hansikgoohk hansikgoo TATLER SAYS Hong Kong’s first Korean fine-dining restaurant goes from strength to strength in its fourth year under the guidance of chef-patron Mingoo Kang, as the culinary programme doubles down on fusing locally harvested ingredients with seasonal Korean produce and contemporary techniques. Juk (congee), mandu (dumplings) and bugak (vegetable or seaweed crisps) make regular appearances on the menu, which change with the seasons; while prized Hanwoo beef always signifies the apex of each meal. Don’t skip out on the drinks list, which features fine iterations of soju and lesserknown brews like chungju and takju. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Grilled Hanwoo with daily banchan Samgye risotto Korean fried chicken with yuza jang PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for up to 20 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 227
KOREAN Mosu 3/F, M+ Tower, 38 Museum Drive, West Kowloon Cultural District, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2398 0291 restaurantmosu.com facebook.com/mosuhongkong mosuhongkong TATLER SAYS Nowhere says design minimalism—in the best possible sense—like Mosu, a jewel in the impressive culinary crown of the M+ museum of visual culture. Hot on the heels of its Seoul location, which itself had moved from San Francisco, Mosu Hong Kong is led by chef Shim Jung-Taek. He serves seamlessly transplanted signature dishes from Mosu’s chef-founder Sung Anh, who worked at icons including The French Laundry and Benu. This pedigree shows in creations such as the rightly famous abalone from Korea’s Wando Island, served in tacos made with yuba and shiso leaf; and the classic Korean rice dish of sot bap with French lamb saddle. Astonishingly fragrant acorn noodles with truffle, roasted in embers for full-on smokiness, are also unmissable. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Abalone taco Tilefish and brassicas Gim cup AWARDS: Best New Restaurant, 2023 • Rising Star, 2023 • 228 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 6-14 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
LATIN AMERICAN 11 Westside 1/F, The Hudson, 11 Davis Street, Kennedy Town, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9300 8068 11westside.com 11westside 11westside TATLER SAYS The name Esdras Ochoa might ring familiar—the Mexican chef made a brief but memorable feature on Netflix’s The Final Table. In Hong Kong, the best representation of the signature modern Mexican cuisine that earned him the title “Taco King” can be found at 11 Westside. Tucked away on the mezzanine level of a luxury residence, the taqueria buzzes with vibrant energy on any given night, with spacious, comfortable seating perfect for smaller groups or larger parties. While the menu is simple, it stands out with authentic classics: tacos, ceviche and GSC (guacamole, salsa and chips)— dishes wonderfully complemented by an extensive cocktail selection conceptualised by bartender and co-founder Daniel Eun. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • GSC (guacamole, salsa and chips) Pollo asado taco Carne asada fries PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 229
LATIN AMERICAN Mono 5/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9726 9301 mono.hk monohkg monohkg TATLER SAYS Hongkongers may have taken to revenge travel without hesitation, but Ricardo Chaneton’s artful cooking at Mono continues to stoke wanderlust for the faraway lands of Latin America. In a praiseworthy feat of logistics and imagination, Chaneton somehow manages to pull off a seasonal finedining menu featuring ingredients native to Latin America and found at only a handful of other restaurants in Asia, including mashua, jicama, heirloom corn varieties and cacao beans. Then there are regional foods like arepa, sofrito, tortillas and alfajor that make every meal here a delicious education. Make sure to book the bar seating to take in the action of the open kitchen while tunes from Chaneton’s personal collection of vinyls waft throughout the space. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 230 Challans duck, chimichurri, duck innards rice Seasonal taco Charcoal-grilled Brittany monkfish and Corrèze veal sweetbreads AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Restaurant Of The Year, 2023 • Best Service, 2023 • Best New Restaurant Readers’ Choice, 2020 • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-16 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MIDDLE EASTERN Francis G/F, 4 & 6 St Francis Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5216 8318 francis.com.hk francishkrestaurant francishongkong TATLER SAYS Since its debut in 2018, Francis has garnered a loyal following thanks to its casual restaurant format and impeccable selection of meze and value-for-money wine pairings. The semiopen-terrace design allows for a bright and airy space in the day, but the restaurant is also buzzing in the evenings, with a great à la carte menu featuring signature sharing bites like hummus, falafel, and burnt eggplant with yoghurt and pita for a taste of Tel Aviv. Francis’s smoked carrots with spiced honey, and lamb ribs with orange, yoghurt and coriander are crowd-pleasers. For larger dishes, the chicken schnitzel with za’atar is ideal for larger parties, but save room for a refreshing knafeh with mozzarella and orange blossom for dessert. The restaurant may be walk-in only but limited bookings are available for parties of more than five. SIGNATURE DISHES • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2019 • Restaurateurs Of The Year, 2019 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE PRICE PER HEAD: HK$450 • Spiced beef cigars with green tahini Smoked carrots with spiced honey and almond cream Chicken schnitzel 231
MIDDLE EASTERN Francis West G/F, 42-44 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong francis.com.hk francishkrestaurant francishongkong TATLER SAYS Despite the block party atmosphere on Peel Street most evenings and weekends, Francis West confidently holds its own with a discerning menu of North Africaninfluenced food—a counterpart to Francis, its Starstreet original serving Tel Aviv staples. Silky smooth hummus, grilled eggplant with tangy labneh, a luscious crab challah toast and smoky beef kabab are just some of the satisfying dishes that tickle the serotonin switches, and with the concise menu and a reliably enjoyable wine list, you can (and will want to) return and try everything in just two or three trips. Earlier in the day, Francis West throws open its full-length windows—a perfect spot for a sun-washed brunch. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Lamb ribs with orange and yoghurt Merguez lamb sausage with celeriac Knafeh with mozzarella and pistachio PRICE PER HEAD: HK$450 232 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN CHINESE Bo Innovation 1/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2850 8371 boinnovation.com boinnovation bo_innovation_central TATLER SAYS Over a decade ago, “Demon Chef” Alvin Leung dazzled the culinary scene with experimental molecular gastronomy fused with Chinese traditions. Now, following a relocation to Central’s H Code, the exuberant chef continues to impress with a wildly imaginative, Hong Kong-inspired menu bolstered by the cornucopia of contemporary art pieces that fill the colourful new space. Though the menu changes with the season, some things remain the same, including a penchant for theatrics— whether tableside or with playful custommade tableware— and Leung’s signature “X-treme Chinese” cuisine that riffs on classics and reconfigures all manner of culinary customs. It’s an exciting, immersive dining experience that you won’t forget. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Master Q Goldfish Last Ox PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 233
MODERN CHINESE Cafe Bau Shop 8, 1/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2126 7212 lubuds.com/cafe-bau-wan-chai cafebau.hk cafebau.hk TATLER SAYS In theory, farm-to-table is a worthy endeavour. It’s a task easier said than done, especially in a city like ours with an agricultural capacity that’s long dwindled in favour of produce flown in from pastures beyond. Yet it’s a challenge cheffounder Alvin Leung has set out for himself with Cafe Bau (“Bau” is derived from Hong Kong’s bauhinia emblem), holding court where his Michelinstarred Bo Innovation once stood before its Central relocation. Be it succulent bites of Ping Yuen yellow chicken raised in the New Territories or cheeses hand-churned from Kowloon Dairy milk, this fastidious insistence on 100 per cent local—they’re almost there—might just be the chef’s most “X-treme” endeavour yet. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Fried whitebait with preserved lemon mayo Jinga shrimp millefeuille Modern wife cake PRICE PER HEAD: HK$900 234 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN CHINESE Chinesology Shop 3101, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6809 2299 chinesology.com chinesologyhk chinesologyhk TATLER SAYS It’s all pure, plush opulence upon entering Chinesology. From à la carte dim sum lunches to fullthrottle degustations, comforting favourites are thus made anew: think fluffy egg tarts infused with Bailey’s or piping hot puff pastries (made with minced goose, chicken and mushroom instead of shredded turnip) dyed rosy with cherry sauce. A mouthful of A5 Kagoshima Wagyu is served atop crispy edible spoons; vineripe Japanese melon indulgently simmered in double-boiled fish maw soup; and a skewer of plum mousse playing pretend as candied hawthorn is presented tableside in a jewellery box. There’s course after course of extravagant fare, scrumptiously reimagined. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Osmanthus oolong crispy tea-smoked chicken Dim sum platter Baked stuffed crab shell PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 235
MODERN CHINESE Little Bao 1-3 Shin Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2818 1280 little-bao.com littlebaohk littlebaohk TATLER SAYS A decade ago, chef May Chow launched her original bao featuring braised pork belly, sesame mayo and hoisin ketchup, which went on to become a cult hit. Since then, she’s gone on to open other restaurants and win awards including Tatler Dining’s Local Champion award, but the bao remains the star. At the Soho location, set off the stone steps below Hollywood Road, diners perch on bar stools around a counter to tuck into an expanded menu of bao and other dishes. Among them are a signature fried chicken made with local three yellow chicken, as well as panfried brisket dumplings. Vegetarians are catered for with Impossible baos and ones stuffed with tempeh. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Pork belly bao Matcha ice cream bao Truffle fries with mushroom tempeh ragout AWARDS: Local Champion, 2017-2018 • 236 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$350 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN CHINESE Mott 32 Basement, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2885 8688 mott32.com mott32hk mott32hk TATLER SAYS What used to be a former bank basement has for years been the sophisticated dining room of Mott 32, where modern Cantonese flavours shine. The Joyce Wang Studiodesigned space still maintains a sense of extravagance with dim lighting and ornate details. The applewoodroasted Peking duck, barbecued Ibérico pork char siu and creative dim sum selection, including caviar-topped pork siu mai stuffed with a soft-boiled quail egg, remain mustorder favourites and sit beside a well-curated list of Old World wines and creative cocktails. Plantbased alternatives of signature dishes are also available. Just ask—the hospitable servers here are always happy to help. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2015-2016 • Best New Restaurant, 2015 • Best Interior Design, 2015 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Peking duck Pork siu mai with runny quail’s egg BBQ pluma Ibérico pork char siu PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 8-24 persons 237
MODERN CHINESE The Praya 3/F, One-Eight-One Hotel, 181 Connaught Road West, Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3181 1666 thepraya.hk theprayahk TATLER SAYS There are many eateries that call themselves Neo-Chinese, but none carry the title quite as masterfully as The Praya. Despite the confines of their named cuisine, executive chef Steve Ma is as game for delving beyond—their four-hands with the chefs of Bangkok’s Samrub Samrub Thai was a winning example. Signatures include plump pockets of clams resting atop a shallow pool of aged Shaoxing, spring onion pancakes fluffed up with sourdough, and cocktails garnished with a sliver of century egg. For while manmade boundaries between state lines sever us from our neighbours, food, as it always does, connects. And The Praya knows it. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Drunken clams with aged Shaoxing wine Master stock beef quintet with Grandma’s chilli oil Gold coin eel with sourdough pancakes PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 18 persons 238 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN 1111 Ones 11/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9835 8606 1111ones.com 1111ones 1111ones TATLER SAYS Taking its design cues from the curves and hues of Antelope Canyon in Arizona, 1111 Ones’ stunning interior offers a tranquil setting for patrons. Last year, the fine-dining restaurant embarked on a new journey under the helm of chef Chris Chan. The tasting menus— including a full eightcourse menu called The Expedition and a shorter, six-course The Outing menu—take inspiration from around the world. Chan’s refreshing approach to European cooking is enriched by his thoughtful use of Asian ingredients such as cordyceps, fish maw and blood bird’s nest. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Oscietre caviar with guanciale custard Sicilian red prawn spaghetti Binchotan-grilled fish maw with lobster bisque PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 10-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 239
MODERN EUROPEAN Alibi–Wine Dine Be Social 5/F, Cordis Hong Kong, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3552 3231 cordishotels.com Alibi-Wine-Dine-Be-Social cordishk TATLER SAYS This modern European restaurant and bar serves food and drinks that reflect a responsible approach towards the environment, with an emphasis on premium ingredients with traceable provenance. Seasonal menus feature sharing plates, fresh seafood and a wide selection of desserts, beginning with starters such as hand-dived scallop crudo and Le Polmard beef tartare. Don’t miss the clam Meunière, Toulouse sausages with roast garlic and mashed potato, or the Australian grass-fed aged beef striploin, replete with plenty of sides. Creative cakes, puddings and ice creams, as well as healthy opinions, offer a sweet finish. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Impossible tacos Local littleneck clam Meunière Hereford OBE beef tenderloin PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8 persons 240 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN Amber 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2132 0066 mandarinoriental.com/en/hong-kong/the-landmark/dine/amber TheLandmarkMandarinOriental mo_landmarkhk TATLER SAYS Since its inception in 2005, Amber has firmly established itself as a pillar of Hong Kong’s fine-dining landscape. Guided by chef Richard Ekkebus, the restaurant’s innovative French cuisine has not aged but evolved, continually refreshing its approach while maintaining flawless execution. The Amber Experience—available as vegetarian, extended or full—is a fluid menu of seasonal flavours driven by ethical sourcing, which makes for a more responsible dining experience. It also eschews dairy, minimises refined sugar and reduces salt, allowing diners to savour the food in its most unadulterated form. This is complemented by swift service, including an exclusive mini kitchen tour, and a thoughtful wine list. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2018, 2020, 2023-2024 • Chef Of The Year, 2020 • Best Pastry Chef, 2017 • Best Sommelier, 2016 • Best Chef, 2013 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,500 David Hervé Royal Oyster with potato and horseradish Blue lobster, fermented sea urchin miso and red sea urchin Duck “au sang”, maqaw mountain pepper and butternut squash PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms, for 4-16 persons 241
MODERN EUROPEAN Arcane 3/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2728 0178 arcane.hk ArcaneRestaurant arcanehk TATLER SAYS Step into Arcane, and you’re in Shane Osborn’s realm, where the quality of cuisine is a dependable constant, resulting in a steady stream of return diners. The menu, led by chef de cuisine Sebastian Lorenzi, is one of thoughtful minimalism, allowing the natural flavours of each ingredient to shine. The sweetness of Japanese fruit tomato is delightfully paired with seared langoustine and smoked stracciatella, while potato gnocchi is sautéed and enriched with shiitake, parmesan and black truffle. Set within a neat and stylish room, Arcane is a gathering place for the city’s elite, all seeking the reliable fare that Osborn and his team consistently deliver. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • King crab with creamy avocado crème fraîche and caviar Spinach, ricotta and egg yolk ravioli with sage and almond beurre noisette Sautéed porcini, parmesan crust and caramelised onion AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2016-2018, 2020, 2022-2024 • 242 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN Aulis UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2817 8383 roganic.com.hk aulishongkong aulishongkong TATLER SAYS British chef Simon Rogan has won every plaudit going for his locally focused cuisine which reflects micro-seasons—and nowhere is that better exemplified than in the stunning tasting menus at his restaurant Aulis Hong Kong. The experience is always interactive, with chefs prepping, cooking and explaining the dishes in front of you. They may include Rogan’s famed truffle pudding which is caramelised in birch sap and stout vinegar, and dusted in aged Berkswell cheese, or pork from the local Wah Kee farm, which is stuffed with Kyoto turnips and served with a lemon and thyme sauce. Sublime flavours combine with warm and knowledgeable service to make this one of the city’s finest and most underrated places to eat. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 Aberdeen red bream stuffed with Manila clams Mussel custard and Porlock Bay oyster in roasted bone broth Aulis fuseau artichoke with molasses, pear and jasmine PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 10 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 243
MODERN EUROPEAN Moxie Shop 203, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2718 8211 moxiehk.net moxiehongkong moxie_hk TATLER SAYS Fresh, ingredientcentric cooking is available for breakfast, lunch and dinner here in an elevated yet casual setting for Central’s busiest worker bees. It’s helmed by former Arcane chef de cuisine Michael Smith, and the dishes here make sustainable or locally sourced produce the centre of attention, celebrating peak seasonality to ensure dishes are bursting with flavour and aroma. The menu is mainly pescetarian, where items like beetroot and sweetcorn hold their own as protagonists alongside ingredients like Fremantle octopus, black tiger prawn and other fresh catches of the day. There’s a slight Aussie bent, so diners can expect excellent coffees here, alongside requisite desserts like lamingtons and pavlovas. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 244 Ruby beetroots with Taiwanese mango, feta and jalapeño dressing Three-grain mapo tofu with pickled yellow carrots and endive Yellow pavlova with peach and passionfruit PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN Neighborhood LG/F, 61-63 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2617 0891 neighborhoodhk TATLER SAYS Despite the long list of restaurant awards it’s accrued over the years, Neighborhood somehow manages to retain a certain mystique: the restaurant’s only online presence is a sparsely updated Facebook page, while proprietor David Lai, a self-proclaimed, Crocs-wearing introvert, shuns the media limelight. But gourmands keep coming back for signatures like saltbaked Ping Yuen chicken rice and Mayura Station Wagyu short ribs with salad. A healthy range of daily specials keeps regulars guessing: your visit could coincide with creations like smoked Hokkaido sanma with liver sauce, or fried porcini with sweetbreads and girolles. Be sure to preorder the classics to avoid disappointment. SIGNATURE DISHES • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2018-2020, 2022, 2024 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Salt-baked chicken rice with yellow wine and morels Poached pigeon eggs with tomato, horseradish and caviar PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12-18 persons 245
MODERN EUROPEAN Rex Wine & Grill B/F, One Chinachem Central, 22 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2857 7157 rexwineandgrill.com.hk rexwineandgrill rexwineandgrill TATLER SAYS Carnivores are in for a treat at Rex Wine & Grill, one of the city’s premier steakhouses. Descending into the low-lit and moody basement room, it’s easy to forget that you’re dining in the middle of busy Central district. The menu is rustic and comforting yet Nathan Green shows a skilled hand in starters like lobster croquette, and a ham and truffle toastie. You’re here for the beef, however, cooked over almond wood and Japanese charcoal. The Rubia Gallega from Spain dry-aged for 60 days or the Polish Holstein dry aged for 45 days come recommended. The steak frites set menu is good value, as long as you don’t order the supplementary items. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Rex steak tartare, bone marrow toast Bluefin tuna crudo, smoked eggplant, Hokkaido sea urchin 45-day dry-aged Italian scottona PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 6-16 persons 246 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN Roganic Shop 8, UG/F, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2817 8383 roganic.com.hk roganichongkong roganichongkong TATLER SAYS There’s little doubt that Roganic is worth its weight in gold for the affordability of its tasting menus. But Simon Rogan’s Hong Kong outpost goes above and beyond: first, in the considered flavours that marry seasonal produce sourced from the New Territories with his brand of cuisine derived from L’Enclume in England’s Lake District; and secondly, in a commitment to sustainability that sees hydroponic microgreens grown in-house and prodigious use of upcycling and fermentation that leaves little waste in the kitchen. Aside from a focus on British and low-intervention wine producers, the drinks list also boasts one of the best non-alcoholic offerings in town. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2020, 2022-2023 • Best Sommelier, 2023 • Sustainability Champion, 2023 • Best New Restaurant, 2020 • Best Service, 2020 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Birch sap-glazed truffle pudding Soda bread with brown cultured English butter Butter-poached grouper with Mr Lin’s white asparagus PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 4-30 persons 247
MODERN EUROPEAN Somm 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2132 0055 mandarinoriental.com TheLandmarkMandarinOriental mo_landmarkhk TATLER SAYS If you love wine, Somm is likely your happy place, featuring more than 1,600 champagnes, wines and a generous selection of sake rarely seen outside of Japan. Labels range from rare bottles to bold, contemporary varietals that can get any oenophile’s heart racing—with a remarkable portion of it all available by the glass or carafe. Somm is open for breakfast, lunch or supper, but it’s the killer brunch that needs to be ticked off any wine aficionado’s list: it features opulent plates for sharing and your own main and dessert, all to go with a sommelier’s selection of the finest wines, freeflowing for 90 minutes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Aka uni “French toast” Binchotan-grilled madai with Sichuan pepper Romanesco BBQ beef short rib “char siu” AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2020 • 248 PRICE PER HEAD: HK1,900 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
MODERN EUROPEAN The Baker & The Bottleman Shop G14 & G15, Lee Tung Avenue, 200 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2386 8933 thebakerandthebottleman.hk thebakerandthebottleman thebakerandthebottleman TATLER SAYS As the name suggests, The Baker & The Bottleman is a venue of two halves— a modern bakery by day, a neighbourhood restaurant by night. The downstairs bakery serves a tantalising array of breads, pastries, cakes and sandwiches, which can be enjoyed either to eat in or take away during the daylight hours. Come evening, the upstairs space transforms into a laidback, bistro-style eatery, complemented by a wine list that focuses on organic, natural and sustainable picks. The menu is relatively simple, characterised by classic European flavour combinations that let the quality of the ingredients shine— including a cult favourite fish burger, and a twist on the much-loved truffle pudding at its sister restaurant, Roganic. Uncomplicated but all the better for it. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 • • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Rhug Estate lamb, creamed ratte potatoes and charred broccoli Jerusalem artichoke, roasted shallots and fresh pears Almond croissants 249
SCANDINAVIAN Arbor 25/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3185 8388 arbor-hk.com arborhk arborhk TATLER SAYS Arbor doesn’t have much competition in the Nordic-Japanese corner of the finedining market, but it still stands tall in its chosen culinary field. Chef-founder Eric Raty continues his exploration of this quirky intersection of cuisines in dishes like rabbit skewer with hojicha ramen in mushroom broth, and scallop with Loire Valley white asparagus and yuzu hollandaise. There’s also a firm repertoire of signatures that uplift every tasting menu—we’re partial towards the Nordic Sushi, tuna taco and genmaicha caviar gunkan. The blushpink walls and elegant arches make this topfloor restaurant one of the most suited to date nights in the city. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Nordic sushi Pigeon Genmaicha caviar gunkan AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2019-2020, 2022, 2024 • 250 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 4-24 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
SCANDINAVIAN Embla 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2559 8508 emblahk.com emblahk emblahk TATLER SAYS Dinners at Embla are always memorable thanks to the engaging kitchen team, who proudly share the stories and inspirations behind their dishes. Inspired by new Nordic cuisine, they champion the farmers and producers of ingredients that are local, natural and seasonal. Ovenbaked pigeon with macerated lingonberry, a pine cone gastrique, charred pickled onion and allium flowers are not often found on tasting menus in Hong Kong, but they create a sublime symphony of flavours. It’s a theme repeated across any meal, while desserts also wow— such as a chocolate dome with pine nut and a tea fudge. Pairings, whether alcoholic or otherwise, are likewise perfectly on point. Be sure to ask for a seat at the counter for maximum interaction. SIGNATURE DISHES • • PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,700 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • Celeriac fondant, smoked tea aspic, fermented onion nage, Ossetra caviar Lamb neck “72H”, charred eggplant, semi-dried tomatoes Smoked eel, pickled herring Gubbröra, eggs 251
SOUTH AMERICAN Buenos Aires Polo Club 7/F, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2321 8681 bapoloclub.com buenosairespoloclubhk buenosairespoloclub TATLER SAYS Evoking the aura of an early 1900s Argentinian members’ club, Buenos Aires Polo Club is an elegant tribute to Argentina’s deep-rooted grilling culture, fervent passion for sport and the distinguished allure of exclusive clubs. The restaurant showcases premium cuts of beef, expertly grilled in the traditional asado style, and cooked to each guest’s preference. Like any great steakhouse, Buenos Aires Polo Club offers a generous selection of appetisers and side dishes. To complement the Argentinian mains, however, traditional items like provoleta cheese and various empanadas are recommended. Brunch here is a great way to experience the restaurant in its most lively state and is complemented by free-flow beverage programmes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Provoleta Chateaubriand Empanadas PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,300 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 15-40 persons 252 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
SOUTH AMERICAN Uma Nota 1/F, 38 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2889 7576 uma-nota.com umanotahk uma.nota TATLER SAYS Standing out on Soho’s Peel Street strip is Uma Nota, an inviting entry point into the unique realm of BrazilianJapanese Nikkei cuisine. The thrum of South American life is translated into a menu of vibrant flavours, featuring everything from ceviche and sushi rolls with multiple textures to glazed, fried chicken, US prime flank steak with tare sauce and steamed white fish in Ibérico chorizo dashi. The restaurant also offers an ample selection of fruity cocktails made with Brazil’s cachaça spirit. Uma Nota brings elation to its vibrant boteco setting, where food and drinks are as exciting and highspirited as the vibes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Amazonian nigiri Grilled beef tenderloin, uni foam and truffle Brazilian cassava croquettes, prawn and yuzu mayonnaise PRICE PER HEAD: HK$450 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 253
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Auor 4/F, 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2866 4888 auor.com.hk Auor auor.hkg TATLER SAYS Known for his tenure at Le Pan and Singapore’s first molecular gastronomy restaurant, Aurum, chef Edward Voon’s contemporary fine-dining restaurant revolves around a six-course signature tasting menu inspired by the 24 solar terms of the Chinese lunisolar calendar, blending French techniques with vibrant Asian flavours. The menu explores transitions between past, present and future; a celebration of defining moments unfolds in courses named Awakening, Rain, Colours, Diversity, Soul and concluding with lasting emotions of Memory, each of which explores the intersection of punchy Singaporean and Malaysian flavours with aplomb. For those looking for a more relaxed occasion to visit, the five-course champagne brunch every Saturday mirrors the popular seasonal weekday lunch presentation, with the luxurious upgrade of caviar. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 254 Ezo abalone “Xiang Zao Lu” somen Tandoori crab au gratin, lobster stock and Comté cheese Kiwami Wagyu, Sarawak black pepper, tamarind purée PRICE PER HEAD: HK2,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 6-10 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Cafe Malacca 2/F, Hotel Jen Hong Kong, 508 Queen’s Road West, Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2213 6613 cafemalacca.hk cafemalacca cafe_malacca_hk TATLER SAYS Cafe Malacca delivers the essence of Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine, from its rich spices and flavours to its unpretentious, casual setting. The culinary team sources ingredients such as lemongrass, galangal and ginger flower from Southeast Asia to accurately follow ageold recipes for classics like bak kut teh, Hainan chicken rice and aromatic laksa. Service is friendly, with the team happily offering food and drink recommendations. When making reservations, check for off-menu specials that can only be ordered through advance bookings. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Penang char kuey teow Penang Assam laksa Satay PRICE PER HEAD: HK$150 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 50 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 255
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Whey UG/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2693 3198 whey.hk wheyhk wheyhk TATLER SAYS In Whey’s relaxed and comfortable embrace, Singaporean chef Barry Quek has managed to merge punchy Southeast Asian flavours with European techniques in a way that enhances rather than masks. The tasting menu is a cavalcade of innovation, introducing rare ingredients while artfully combining the familiar with the unexpected. Whey’s brioche, for instance, is served with a flavourful buah keluak emulsion, while the Maoshan Wang durian ice cream is topped with pops of luxury in the form of Kristal caviar. The drinks programme mirrors Quek’s locavore tendencies, using botanicals sourced from farms within Hong Kong, and the wine list is an eclectic mix of boutique producers from around the world. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Yellowtail, finger lime and caviar Hainan chicken rice Buah keluak brioche AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Best New Restaurant, 2022 • 256 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 8-10 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
SPANISH 22 Ships 22 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2555 0722 22ships.hk 22shipshkg 22shipshkg TATLER SAYS When this casual tapas restaurant opened more than a decade ago on what was then an under-appreciated street, it set the town abuzz. Now in the talented hands of Madrileño Antonio Oviedo, this convivial Spanish kitchen is once again a Hong Kong tapas favourite after a substantial renovation. The rustic yet refined menu of gilda skewers, uni and rusa salad on crisp toast, carabineros paella and a drinks list of Spanish wines, sangrias and sherries lend a relaxed and peppy atmosphere to the intimate space. The best seats in the house are at the wraparound bar overlooking the open kitchen; alternatively, opt for the streetfacing window seats on breezy evenings. The restaurant takes no reservations and applies no service charge. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Best No-Reservation Restaurant, 2014 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Suckling pig Carabinero paella Sea urchin and rusa toast PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 257
SPANISH Bayfare Social 5/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3981 8732 bayfaresocial.hk bayfaresocial bayfaresocial TATLER SAYS Described as a gastromarket, don’t let the casual ambience at Bayfare Social fool you: this lively social eatery is no slouch when it comes to quality Spanish cuisine. Chef de cuisine Jorge Vera Gutierrez, hailing from Tenerife, leads the kitchen, infusing his innovative touch into a refreshed à la carte menu. The menu traverses Spain’s regional cuisines, featuring seasonal and signature tapas with a twist while paying homage to classics like chicken paella and bacalao con samfaina. New additions include hand-sliced Ibérico ham, anchovies with tomato bread, and the traditional Spanish delight of brandada de bacalao. We recommend dining in a bigger group to better sample the breadth that this menu has to offer. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Paella Scallop ceviche Nervos rotos PRICE PER HEAD: HK$800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 12 persons 258 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
SPANISH JAPANESE Andō 1/F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9161 8697 andohk.com andohongkong ando.hkg TATLER SAYS Argentinian chefpatron Agustin Balbi likes to categorise his cooking at the intersection of Spain, where his ancestors hailed from, and Japan, where he trained for six years—though we think, above all, that it is an exploration of his personal journey. Such is clear in explorations of the food his family cooked for him as a child, reinterpreted in the Sin Lola, an arroz caldoso congee that changes with the seasons; while the Departure medley pays homage to the fishing trips his father took him on, as well as showcasing his experiences working in the sushi bars of Tokyo. The wine programme, designed by Carlito Chiu, masterfully selects from lesserknown producers, as well as those with cult followings from around the world. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Restaurant of the Year, 2024 • Best Sommelier, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2022-2024 • Best Pastry Chef, 2022 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Sin Lola/Without Lola Partir/Departure Argentinian Cabañas Monvale beef course PRICE PER HEAD: HK$3,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 10 people 259
STEAKHOUSE Beefbar 2/F, Club Lusitano Building, 16 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2110 8853 beefbar.com/hong-kong beefbarhk beefbar_official TATLER SAYS Beefbar is a global steak phenomenon with outposts in almost every major city, from its home in Monte Carlo to Paris, Dubai, Hong Kong (its only venue in Asia) and more. It’s all about exceptional steaks here, seemingly in every cut and iteration. Think Wagyu bolognese with pasta or Kobe beef burger alongside your chateaubriand and bone-in porterhouse, and all the luxurious accoutrements like uni, scallops and a beautiful tuna tartare, not to mention plenty of sinful sides to go with (mashed potatoes in six ways, anyone?). The dining room exudes executive glimmer, making it an ideal setting for a power lunch or an important date alike. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Homemade Kobe ravioli Black Angus beef mini burger with mild jalapeño sauce Amberjack and sea urchin carpaccio PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 2-10 persons 260 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
STEAKHOUSE Bostonian Seafood & Grill Lower Lobby Level, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2132 7898 hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com BostonianHK langhamhk TATLER SAYS Bostonian Seafood & Grill continues to attract lovers of premium meat and seafood with a wide range of produce, such as artisanal, dry-aged beef, humane lamb and pork, and seafood from clean waters, on the newly revamped menu. Although the grilling here has long been honed to perfection, specialities can also be found in magnificent chilled platters, such as the seafood tower that includes Boston lobster, Alaskan king crab, scallop, abalone and house-cured salmon. Another signature, the New England seafood stew, is packed with crustaceans, molluscs, ling fillet, squid, sweetcorn, chestnut and sundried tomato, then served with a pike and crab quenelle, Rouille sauce and garlic bread. Several star dishes are portioned tableside, as is the dessert of Grand Marnier-flamed baked Alaska. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Seafood tower Hot oysters Dry-aged tomahawk steak PRICE PER HEAD: HK$900 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 261
STEAKHOUSE Grand Hyatt Steakhouse Lobby Level, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2584 7722 grandhyatthongkong TATLER SAYS If you’re looking for an unimpeachable steakhouse experience, this Hong Kong institution always delivers. The menu is stuffed with exemplary renditions of steakhouse classics: crab cakes, Caesar salad, chocolate fondant, ice cream sundaes and, of course, expertly cooked, topquality cuts of beef, with just about every side to choose from that you can think of (the aioli-smothered “dirty fried potatoes” are our top pick). Factor in a relaxed atmosphere, generous portions, friendly service, an extensive wine list (we’re talking over 600 bottles), a fabulously retro soundtrack and unlimited refills of their incredible garlic bread, and you’ve got everything you need for a guaranteed great meal out, whatever the occasion. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Maryland crab cakes Rangers Valley M5 Australian Wagyu tomahawk Washington apple crumble AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2013 • 262 PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,000 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
STEAKHOUSE La Vache Shop 007, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2801 6122 lavache.com.hk lavachehk lavachehk TATLER SAYS In life, there aren’t many things that can be classified as a sure bet—but in dining terms, a meal at La Vache comes pretty close. With its Parisian brasserie vibes and stripped-back menu, this is a restaurant that is completely confident about what it has to offer—namely, superb steak frites, all day, every day. Consistency and quality are key; there’s only one starter (an appetite-whetting walnut salad) and only one main, juicy entrecôte steak, cooked to your preference and served with an insanely addictive sauce and endless piles of golden fries, freshly cooked in beef fat to make them even more delicious. For those with enough willpower to resist the offer of unlimited fries, check out the seriously tempting dessert trolley. Magnifique! SIGNATURE DISHES • • Trimmed entrecôte steak “La Vache!” Dessert trolley PRICE PER HEAD: HK$500 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 263
STEAKHOUSE Porterhouse Seafood and Steak 7/F California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2522 6366 lkfconcepts.com PorterhouseLKF porterhouse_lkf TATLER SAYS Occupying a prime position in Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower—complete with urban views and a modern interior— Porterhouse is a mecca for meat lovers. Naturally, porterhouse steaks are the signature here, with cuts from Australia, Spain and the US on offer. The vintage steakhouse-inspired à la carte menu has numerous beef cuts, classically indulgent starters including oysters, king prawn cocktail, a seafood tower and soups such as lobster bisque and clam chowder, while pescatarians will appreciate the “Other Than Beef” section. This is a great date night spot, sure, but it’s the showstopping brunch—stacked with seafood, pasta, salads, a carving station and free-flow champagne— that has diners coming back for more. Kick things off with one of the solid classic and seasonal cocktails, then match the meal with a selection from the global wine list that boasts some surprising options. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 264 Signature porterhouse steaks The Grand Ocean Platter Alaskan king crab legs PRICE PER HEAD: HK$600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 26 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
STEAKHOUSE The Steak House G/F, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2313 2313 hongkong.regenthotels.com thesteakhousehk thesteakhousehk TATLER SAYS The Steak House has rightly earned a reputation for plating first-rate steaks, other grilled meats, poultry and seafood sourced from reputed traceable farms. Its charcoal grill adds a smoky dimension to anything it touches. For grilledcourse enhancers, the restaurant has an enviable selection of mustards, horseradish, rare salts and an outstanding wine list. Service is impeccable and the dining area feels as though the restaurant is sitting on the harbour with a full view of the skyline. There are also modern takes on classic starters, a lavish salad bar— featuring fresh salads, premium cheeses and charcuterie—and indulgent desserts that complete the experience. For Sunday brunch, a dedicated Caesar salad station is on hand, as is another one solely for variations on eggs Benedict. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Salad bar Hanwoo sirloin Upside-down apple tarte tatin PRICE PER HEAD: HK$2,000 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 265
SWISS Chesa 1/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2696 6769 peninsula.com/chesa thepeninsulahongkong peninsulahongkong TATLER SAYS When a restaurant has been around for over 50 years in Hong Kong, you know they must be doing something right. While it might now be approaching pensioner status, Chesa’s charms continue to burn as brightly as ever—from its cosy chocolatebox Alpine chalet decor to its hearty menu of comforting Swiss classics. Leave your diet at the door; its gloriously rich cheese fondues and oh-so-moreish molten raclette are well worth the ensuing food coma, while dessert offers even greater indulgences—think retro delights in the shape of chocolate fondue, baked Alaska and crêpes Suzette. The wine list is weighted towards western European choices, with some intriguing Swiss varieties making the cut. Here’s to another 50 years! SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 266 Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeoise cheese fondue served with baguette Traditional barley cream soup from Grisons with vegetables and airdried beef Raclette with new potatoes and pickled onions PRICE PER HEAD: HK$850 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
THAI Chachawan G/F, 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2549 0020 chachawan.hkm chachawan.hongkong chachawanhkg TATLER SAYS Thailand’s northeastern Isaan region is home to many of the nation’s most iconic dishes, which are all served with down-to-earth deliciousness at this compact and friendly Sheung Wan spot. Interiors decked with quirky artefacts set the tone for a riot of spice and heat, sour and sweet, which work together in glorious union across the menu. Don’t miss the gai yang, a 24-hour marinated chicken which is grilled over a charcoal pit; or their fantastically vibrant Thai salads—a feast for all the senses. Carefully crafted Asianinspired cocktails are the perfect pairing to take the edge off the occasionally fiery cuisine. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Best New Chef, 2014 • 24-hour marinated grilled chicken Salt-crusted whole seabass Spicy pork with lime salad PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 24 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 267
THAI Plaa 2/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2389 3288 plaa.hk plaahongkong plaahongkong TATLER SAYS The name is a giveaway as to what to expect at Plaa. Meaning “fish” in Thai, the restaurant is a collaboration with Bangkok-based chef Ian Kittichai and Hong Kong-born Richie Lin, who consult on the menu. Heading up the kitchen is Santipap “Tor” Tonkanya, who cut his teeth at finedining establishments such as L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. That means impeccably plated and modernised versions of dishes such as larb salad, here made with scallop, and tom yum goong prawn soup. Those afraid of spice needn’t worry— most dishes are on the milder side—and chilli levels can be adjusted if required. If eight courses aren’t enough, supplementary items such as satay are available. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Nam jim seafood Larb with scallop Tom yum goong with botan ebi PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 10 persons 268 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
THAI Samsen 68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2234 0001 samsen-hk.com samsenhk TATLER SAYS The queues outside this Thai favourite that opened in Wan Chai in 2016 never seem to get any shorter, even after a second, bigger branch opened in Sheung Wan in 2019. Chef-owner Adam Cliff, who trained at Bangkok’s Nahm under legendary chef David Thompson, made the bold decision to replace his famed beef boat noodles with khao soi at his newer Jervois Street branch; the decor does, however, remain faithful to the flagship, with distressed concrete walls and weathered posters lending it a Thai noodle shop ambience. In both branches, ingredients are clearly of top quality and the attention to detail is impressive. Cocktails with Thai ingredients make a cooling accompaniment to the punchy flavours in the dishes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Tatler Dining 20, 2018 • Best New Restaurant, 2018 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Khao soi Grilled Wagyu skewers Banana roti PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 269
VEGETARIAN Veda G/F, Ovolo Central, 2 Arbuthnot Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3755 3000 ovolohotels.com vedahongkong vedahk TATLER SAYS With a heartfelt commitment to sustainability, Veda is a celebration of the natural, simple nuances of the Earth’s bounty. In a nod to its roots, the fully plant-based menu here carries overtones of Indian gastronomy, with a deft understanding of spices and sauces. To complement the food, Veda’s cocktail menu similarly carries an Indian twist, while the use of sustainable ingredients in the glass is aligned with its ecoconscious mission. Here, both familiar and original flavours come together, creating a unique experience with the emphasis on sustainability. Visit during its “social hour” for great deals on the cocktails paired with small snacks. On the wine list, organic and sustainable bottles hold court. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Aloo gobi Pani puri Momos PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 270 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
VIETNAMESE Le Garçon Saigon 12-18 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2455 2499 legarconsaigon.com legarconsaigon legarconsaigon TATLER SAYS Marrying chic French design with the freshness and salt-ofthe-earth goodness of Ho Chi Minh City’s food scene, Le Garçon Saigon offers plenty of mouthwatering standouts. On the grill side, discover juicy Saigon beer can chicken, where a bird is baked while propped over a can of 333 beer. Ca phe sua pork ribs, made with a coffee-based marinade and condensed milk glaze, and a moreish chargrilled tamarind octopus are just some of the other innovative dishes on offer. Street classics like banh mi and banh xeo are also not to be missed. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Banh xeo Stuffed calamari 333 Saigon beer can chicken PRICE PER HEAD: HK$400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for up to 28 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 271
VIETNAMESE Sep 19/F, H Code, Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2116 5433 sep-hk.com sephongkong sephongkong TATLER SAYS Wood-fired Vietnamese flavours are the name of the game at this sleek bamboo and polished brass restaurant in Central. Set course lunches are available (and popular) but executive chef DoBee Lam really puts his American Culinary Institute skills to the test in the evening, with eight-course tasting menus that include banh mi with fois gras paté and aioli; Ibérico pork barbecued in lemongrass and molasses; and dry-aged tangy yellow chicken with galangal. Visitors are encouraged to “eat like a boss”, a play on the restaurant’s Vietnamese name. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Petit banh mi Mekong spring roll Hoi An old town poulet PRICE PER HEAD: HK$1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 8 to 24 persons 272 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
VIETNAMESE Xuân G/F, 24 Lun Fat Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2891 1177 xuan.com.hk xuanmodernvietnamese xuan_hk TATLER SAYS With two locations— an original outpost in Wan Chai and a second in Tsim Sha Tsui’s Harbour City—Xuân’s refreshing take on north Vietnamese cuisine is an obvious triumph among the city’s gourmands. While the homemade 12 and 24-hour chicken and beef broths are a comforting delight, guests are advised to flip further down the modern menu for an aromatic selection of wok-tossed larger plates, with the likes of crispy suckling pig, bo luc lac shaking beef, and banh xeo sizzling crêpes—each and every one an indulgent forkful of flavourbursting goodness. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Xuân signature beef pho Sea urchin banh khot pancakes Com ga Hoi An chicken rice PRICE PER HEAD: HK$250 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 273
TATLERASIA Best Macau Restaurants

BRITISH Churchill’s Table Level 1, The Londoner, Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/churchills-table.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS Housed within the Crystal Palace area of The Londoner Macao, this restaurant is inspired by the late British prime minister and gourmand Sir Winston Churchill. International breakfast, dinner, English afternoon tea and a theatrical dessert tasting journey are all served here. Dinner signatures include lobster and seafood risotto; baked bone marrow topped with mushrooms; and rotisserie roasted duck. Afternoon tea, beautifully presented, sometimes adopts seasonal or festive themes, or less expected ones, such as Mad Hatter, for which characters from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland inspired its savoury and sweet inclusions. A coffee lounge by day offers light meals, and transforms into an English pub in the evenings, serving Churchill’s favourite drinks and cocktails. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 276 Lobster seafood risotto Roasted duck Baked bone marrow PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
BRITISH Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill Level 1, The Londoner, Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai Strip, Taipa, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/gordon-ramsay-pub-n-grill.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS The ambience at this venue from internationally renowned UK chef, and TV personality Gordon Ramsay is that of a modernday British gastropub and steakhouse. The upscale, wood-detailed interior with plush leather booths is home to well-known Ramsay signatures including beef Wellington; fish and chips in the form of line-caught, alebattered cod with triple-cooked chips and homemade tartar sauce; and sticky toffee pudding with crème fraîche and vanilla ice cream. An impressive selection of charcoalfired grilled steaks are sourced from quality farms that focus on particular breeds known for complexity of flavours. A quintessential British Sunday roast beef is rubbed with porcini mushroom, and served with Yorkshire pudding and duck fat-roasted potatoes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Beef Wellington Fish and chips Charcoal-grilled tomahawk PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 277
CANTONESE Chef Tam’s Seasons G/F, Wynn Palace Cotai, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8889 3663 wynnresortsmacau.com/en/wynn-palace/dining/chef-tams-seasons Chef Tam’s Seasons wynn.palace TATLER SAYS Multi-award-winning chef Tam Kwokfung heads up the conceptual restaurant Chef Tam’s Seasons, which launched in October 2023. Inspired in part by the 24 solar periods believed to govern the traditional Chinese lunar calendar, affecting micro changes in climate, he selects and prepares the best seasonal produce that he can source for his menu. Finely balanced flavour profiles are to be expected from this Cantonese kitchen that has the occasional western flourish, be it the ingredients used, culinary technique or artful presentation. The launch menu included the likes of shredded duck soup with fish maw and yellow chives, and braised Wagyu beef cheek served as a curry, or with port wine or chu hou sauce. Seasonal tasting menus are options for both lunch and dinner. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Baked stuffed crab shell Crispy beancurd with bird’s nest Roasted goose and celery spring rolls AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 8-10 persons 278 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Golden Court Level 3, Sands Macao, Largo de Monte Carlo, Macau TEL: +853 8983 8222 sandsmacao.com/dining/fine-dining/golden-court SandsMacao TATLER SAYS Sands Macao’s signature Chinese restaurant pays tribute to the heyday of traditional Cantonese dining. The design is quintessentially Chinese, with red, black and gold tones dominating the interiors, while the culinary focus is on Cantonese classics elevated by high-end ingredients—abalone, bird’s nest, lobster and geoduck—and culinary craftsmanship. Seafood is the highlight here, a fact emphasised by the 18 live fish tanks in the restaurant, but the pièce de résistance is the Macau sole, a signature that’s served both sautéed and deepfried. Modern takes on beloved Cantonese dishes are de rigueur here—think braised e-fu noodles with crab meat and crab roe— but come for lunch to indulge in the creative dim sum offering. The food is seconded by attentive—not intrusive—service, exquisite Chinese teas and a solid wine list. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 room for 10-24 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • • Macau sole served two ways Baked chicken in rock salt Crispy Shiqi baby pigeon 279
CANTONESE Jade Dragon 3/F, The Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8868 2822 cityofdreamsmacau.com JadeDragonMacau cityofdreams TATLER SAYS Cantonese cuisine simply doesn’t get more memorable than at Jade Dragon. Exemplary service comes as standard, starting with a warm welcome as you are led to your table across the stunningly designed restaurant—featuring ebony, crystal, jade and gold—before you are presented with stellar tea or wine lists. Every dish shows laserfocused attention to detail and flawless execution from a team led by executive chef Kelvin Au Yeung. He isn’t afraid to combine western ingredients or techniques, but plates never stray into confusion. Few places can match its seafood, such as sublimely poached garoupa with Huadiao wine. Roast meats are flawless, notably the char siu pork lacquered in a mahogany glaze that had us asking the secret behind it. Unsurprisingly, no dice. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Fish maw and caviar in rabbitfish soup Signature deep-fried Gillardeau oyster Prime-cut barbecued Ibérico pork collar AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2014-2018 • Best Dim Sum, 2015 • Best New Restaurant, 2013 • 280 PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 11 rooms for 6-20 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Lai Heen 51/F, The Ritz-Carlton Macau, Galaxy Macau Integrated Resort, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8886 6868 galaxymacau.com/dining/restaurants/lai-heen galaxymacau galaxymacau TATLER SAYS When Lai Heen claims to take Cantonese cuisine to new heights in Macau, it doesn’t just mean it figuratively. Perched on the 51st floor of The RitzCarlton Macau, Lai Heen is the highest Chinese restaurant in town. Its tasteful and serene interiors set the tone for a meal that radiates finesse—from the attentive service to the well-executed cooking. Lai Heen’s elevated take on the quintessential Cantonese staple of braised pork belly with preserved vegetables exemplifies chef Ho Hon-Sing’s talent for injecting new energy into traditional dishes. Don’t leave without trying the honey-glazed Ibérico char siu. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Stewed prawns with port wine in casserole Deep-fried codfish fillet with crispy garlic Chef’s special braised pork belly with preserved vegetables PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 8-22 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 281
CANTONESE Palace Garden Shop 306, 3/F, Grand Lisboa Palace Macau, Rua do Tiro, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8881 1380 grandlisboapalace.com/en/restaurants-n-bars/palace-garden grandlisboapalace palacegarden.macau TATLER SAYS To describe the Palace Garden as opulent is an understatement. The contemporary Cantonese restaurant is a tribute to the enchanting Chinoiserie period of China’s 18th-century trade history. The maximalist interior design includes a 35-metre-long embroidered silk mural and an immersive digital art experience at the restaurant’s Li Bai Bar. The whimsical designs and details continue in the five private rooms. Palace Garden is more than just a feast for the eyes—it’s where head chef Ken Chong brings labour-intensive traditional recipes of the famed Taishi cuisine—a school of refined Cantonese cooking inspired by the legendary food connoisseur Jiang Taishi from the Qing Dynasty—back to life with aplomb. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Premium partridge bisque Crystal king tiger prawns A whole fresh crab claw AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 5 rooms for 6-12 persons 282 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CANTONESE Pin Yue Xuan Shop 1078, Level 1, The Venetian Macao, Estrada da Baía de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 venetianmacao.com/restaurants/pin-yue-xuan VenetianMacao thevenetianmacao TATLER SAYS Guests stepping into Venetian Macao’s Pin Yue Xuan are immediately hit with the realisation that a highly personal encounter with Cantonese cuisine awaits. First, you will be asked to choose from a selection of bespoke teapots and premium Chinese teas before being seated. Then, two settings await, a main dining room modelled as a lavish Chinese courtyard house and three private dining rooms adorned with contemporary paintings by Ryo Shinagawa and Jackie Battenfield. At the hands of chef Darren Cheung, traditional Cantonese fare is given an upgrade, resulting in decadent signature dishes infused with premium ingredients like crispy Shiqi baby pigeon and steamed Brittany lobster with egg white in seafood broth. Don’t miss the weekend brunch that offers delicately made dim sum. SIGNATURE DISHES • • AWARDS: • Macau Top 20, 2024 PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 • Steamed lobster with egg whites Golden fish dumpling Braised pork with fish maw PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 283
CANTONESE Lakeview Palace G/F, West Esplanade, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8889 3638 wynnresortsmacau.com/en/wynn-palace/dining/lakeview-palace wynnpalace wynn.palace TATLER SAYS One of the latest additions to Macau’s cut-throat Chinese restaurant scene, Lakeview Palace does Chinese food differently—with French culinary techniques and inspiration sourced from regional cuisines across China. Wilson Fam, the former executive chef of Sichuan Moon, brings his vision and ingenuity to the new kitchen. Traditional regional dishes take a surprising turn: beggar’s chicken comes with a Wellington pastry crust instead of being encased by clay; while Sichuan-style yellow croaker soup with pickled mustard greens is served by grilling the fish on blazing hot stones. Those who prefer their Jiangsu and Zhejiang dishes (the main themes of the new restaurant) in a time-honoured way won’t leave unsated, with options such as braised Shanghainese pork dumpling and Shanghai-style soymarinated pomfret. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 284 Soy-marinated pomfret Roasted strangeflavour chicken Stewed pork belly PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms seat 8-14 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE The Eight 2/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau TEL: +853 8803 7788 grandlisboahotels.com/en/grandlisboa/dining/the-8 grandlisboahotel grandlisboahotel TATLER SAYS A colossal dining establishment in Macau, The Eight has sat at the top of the casino city’s restaurant scene ever since opening in 2007. Named after the number symbolising fortune in Chinese culture, The Eight’s sheer opulence— a giant crystal ball hangs in the main dining hall, among a plethora of other auspicious motifs— is still a spectacle after nearly two decades in the business. More importantly, the restaurant continues to wow diners with consistently solid flavours, whether it’s the signature dishes such as the traditional gold coin chicken, a rich array of dim sum or uber-fresh seafood creations. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2015 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Crispy beef with homemade cream sauce Steamed garoupa fillet with crispy black bean and garlic Honey-glazed barbecued pork PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 3,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 6-24 persons 285
CHINESE Feng Wei Ju 5/F, StarWorld Hotel, Avenida de Amizade Macau, Macau TEL: +853 8290 8668 starworldmacau.com/restaurant/feng-wei-ju starworldmacau TATLER SAYS Headed by chef Chan Chek Keong, this renowned Chinese restaurant serves iconic dishes from Hunan and Sichuan, enticing even the spice-avoidant to fall in love with the familiar fiery sensation of mala. From Sichuan’s sliced pork with garlic purée to Hunan’s steamed carp head with pickled chilli, regional classics are reinvented with a modern touch. Those who want to test their spice tolerance should try the restaurant’s signature boiled mandarin fish fillets in chilli oil. Noodles are handmade in-house— diners can admire masters of their craft pulling and slicing them in the kitchen behind large glass windowpanes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Boiled mandarin fish fillets in chilli oil Crispy chicken fillets Beef loin with homemade chilli sauce AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-12 persons 286 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Five Foot Road MGM Cotai, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8806 2358 mgm.mo/en/cotai/dining/five-foot-road mgmmacau mgmartandentertainment TATLER SAYS While Sichuan food has become familiar fare around the world, chef Yang Dengquan strives to celebrate the regional cuisine even further with one of the most sophisticated Sichuan menus in town. Inspired by the glamorous banquets and soirées held by Chengdu’s high society in the 1930s, Five Foot Road’s thrilling range of Sichuan dishes and flavours flaunt the complexity of the region’s distinct cuisine aside from its more famed fiery qualities. The marinated abalone with homemade chilli sauce, wok-fried glutinous rice with pork belly, and dan dan noodles are some of the highlights. The restaurant’s wine list boasts a fine selection of Sichuan liquors and wines from China’s top vineyards. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Crispy mullet carpaccio with Sichuan peppercorn sauce Stewed duck with mushroom, bamboo, ham and hua diao Dan dan noodles PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 10-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 287
CHINESE Golden Flower G/F, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau TEL: +853 8986 3663 wynnresortsmacau.com/en/wynn-macau/dining/golden-flower wynnmacauresort wynn.macau TATLER SAYS At Wynn Macau’s Golden Flower, executive chef Henry Zhang Zhi-cheng transforms traditional Sichuan and Shandong dishes into a menu of sophisticated flavours. Set in an elegantly appointed dining room, where the grandeur of Venice meets the allure of a sumptuous flower garden, each meal is an event in itself. A degustation menu begins with welcome tea and caviar, and signature dishes, such as the rich, braised fish maw in superior chicken broth, echo the yellow petals of the restaurant’s namesake, while crispy codfish with balsamic vinegar, and scampi with fresh Sichuan pepper and angel hair are reimagined with a modern flair. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Fresh clam and jasmine in chicken soup Stir-fried prawns with Sichuan pepper, chilli and macadamia nuts Stewed fish maw with crab claw in supreme chicken soup AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2018 • 288 PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-10 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Imperial Court G/F, MGM Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Macau TEL: +853 8802 2361 mgm.mo/en/macau/dining/imperial-court mgmmacau mgmartandentertainment TATLER SAYS Exuberant floral arrangements, a grandiose dragon column and the opulent red, gold and blue carpeted floor all prelude an extravagant experience at Imperial Court. For years now, Imperial Court has impressed Macau’s glitterati with its masterfully reinterpreted Cantonese dishes. You’ll find traditionally arduous recipes like braised partridge porridge with bird’s nest and Yunnan ham on the menu, alongside reimaginings of familiar flavours such as crispy fried chicken skin with shrimp mousse and salted fish flakes. The dim sum offerings are also a favourite among visitors and locals alike. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Eight treasures suckling pig Lobster with vermicelli and XO claypot Crispy fried chicken skin with shrimp mousse and salted fish flakes PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 6-24 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 289
CHINESE Jiang Nan by Jereme Leung Shop 1078, Level 1, The Venetian Macao, Estrada da Baía de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 venetianmacao.com/restaurants/jiang-nan VenetianMacao thevenetianmacao TATLER SAYS Expect a world of stylised elegance on the plate and interiors at this refined Chinese restaurant hidden in a corner of the first floor of the behemoth Venetian Macao. In the kitchen, celebrated masterchef Jereme Leung puts an innovative spin on classic Jiangnan cuisine, which is native to Shanghai and the provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang, while art deco aesthetics— complemented by impeccable service— revive the glamour of 1930s Shanghai with Shikumen brickwork, playful birdcage motifs, and bespoke lighting and artwork. Signature dishes such as lotusshaped fish dumplings in supreme consommé and drunken crab in Shaoxing wine, served on custom chinaware adorned with bird motifs and crafted by Hong Kong designer Monica Tsang, keep regulars coming back for more. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Drunken crab in shao xing hua diao Eight treasures duck with glutinous rice Lotus-shaped fish dumplings in supreme consommé PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 8-10 persons 290 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE La Chine Level 6, Eiffel Tower, The Parisian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8111 9210 parisianmacao.com/restaurants/la-chine TheParisianMacao Parisian_macao TATLER SAYS Dining in the Eiffel Tower is no longer an experience only available in Paris. Tucked inside a replica of the French icon at The Parisian Macao, La Chine deftly infuses authentic Cantonese flavours with dashes of French flair and premium ingredients in delicious plates—think salt-baked chicken and a Cantonesestyle roasted duck à l’orange dressed in a marinade of mandarin peel and piquant black pepper, glazed in sweet orange. The setting is luxe-industrial, with concrete and metal beams punctuating the otherwise elegant dining room, and it’s hard to beat the sunset panoramas over the Cotai Strip. All of this comes with professional service—staff offer detailed explanations of the food and happily make substitutions for dietary restrictions— and a respectable drinks list that offers wines by the glass in abundance and fine spirits for aperitifs or digestifs. SIGNATURE DISHES • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE • • Roasted suckling pig “éclair” Poached Boston lobster and assorted seafood in superior prawn bisque “Canard à l’orange” crispy roasted duck 291
CHINESE Lotus Palace Shop 3316, Level 3, The Parisian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8111 9260 parisianmacao.com/restaurants/lotus-palace TheParisianMacao Parisian_macao TATLER SAYS Many restaurants in Macau draw inspiration from the Cantonese cuisine of neighbouring Hong Kong, but Lotus Palace achieves this with finesse. Tucked into a quiet corner of the sprawling Parisian complex—in which diners have to navigate through designer shops to find the restaurant’s entrance—this finedining venue impresses with contemporary spins on classic Cantonese plates, especially when it comes to its dim sum menu, which is packed with decadent highlights like the creamy, well-seasoned deep-fried black pepper Wagyu puff and the moreish fried prawns with creamy pumpkin sauce. Somewhat surprisingly, this “palatial Chinese dining experience” extends to hotpot. The premium seafood hotpot set menu, featuring Canadian lobster, New Zealand abalone and Australian Wagyu, is particularly popular. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 292 Suckling pig with foie gras, pork floss and caviar Stir-fried crab with garlic and red chilli Shredded crispy chicken with pomelo PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 4 rooms for 8-16 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE North Palace Level 1, The Londoner, Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/north-palace.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS Designed to engage guests on arrival, North Palace sets the stage for showcasing the best of robust, accessible northern Chinese cuisine. The sights and sounds of chefs preparing dishes with flair at open kitchens include roast duck from Beijing being cooked in an oven and over an open flame; lamb from Inner Mongolia being grilled; and the process of flat breadmaking from Xinjiang. All combine to create culinary theatre that ignites the senses. Other signatures include braised sea cucumber with abalone and yam in leek sauce; and stir-fried beef with chilli, cumin and potato noodles. Taking cues from aristocratic residences in northern China, the elegant North Palace features rich interiors of red and gold, with auspicious symbols of good fortune throughout. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Roast lamb cutlets with Aksu apple Shandong-style crispy chicken Traditional Lanzhou-style noodles with sliced beef and turnips 293
CHINESE North Shop 1015, Level 1, The Venetian Macao, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperanca, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 9980 venetianmacao.com/restaurants/north VenetianMacao thevenetianmacao TATLER SAYS Few restaurants at The Venetian dazzle like North—perhaps this is the reason why it’s popular with locals and visitors alike. Its rendering of Sichuan food is faithful, with nuanced spice profiles infusing Chinese comfort food like Chongqing fried chicken, Shanxi braised beef brisket noodles, and crispy Beijingstyle sweet and sour prawns, but dishes draw from much of China’s northeast. The showstopper is the pull-and-cut flying dagger noodles that are whipped up at mesmerising speed at the rectangular chef’s station that takes centre stage in the dining room, which is otherwise rendered in clean, Chinese-inspired decor in shades of red and black. The menu is extensive, with many options for vegans and vegetarians, and portions are generous. Service is polite and non-intrusive. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Chongqing fried chicken Shanxi braised beef brisket la mian Crispy Beijing-style sweet and sour prawns PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 6-60 persons 294 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Pearl Dragon Shop 2111, 2/F, Star Tower, Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8865 6560 studiocity-macau.com/en/dining/pearl-dragon studiocitymacau studiocitymacau TATLER SAYS In a land of Cantonese restaurants galore, it isn’t an easy feat to stand out—but Pearl Dragon thrives with exemplary and consistent Cantonese cooking, as well as innovative creations. Once you’ve arrived at the restaurant, the calm taupe and green surroundings as well as a cup of fragrant floral welcome tea instantly make you feel a world away from the bustling gaming floor next door. Pearl Dragon’s barbecued honeyglazed Ibérico pork and lychee wood-roasted goose are some of the most popular items on the menu, while the dim sum lunches and the artisanal tea menu both come highly recommended. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2017 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Smoked crispy chicken with Longjing tea leaves Wok-fried Kagoshima A4 Wagyu with maitake Fried organic multigrain rice with scallops and pumpkin PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 900 PRIVATE ROOMS: 6 rooms for 6-12 persons 295
CHINESE The Huaiyang Garden Level 1, The Londoner, Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/huaiyang-garden.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS Serving premium Huaiyang cuisine, a revered ingredientsfirst style from Jiangsu province, The Huaiyang Garden, in both menu and interior decor, is the creation of master chef Zhou Xiaoyan. Dining areas are modelled after Ming-dynasty Jiangnan landscaped gardens in the ancient city of Wuxi. Renowned for his elevated repertoire, Zhou—who is no stranger to TV screens in mainland China— brings contemporary artistic touches to traditional recipes. River fish such as steamed hilsa herring with 20-year-old huadiao wine, wok-fried shrimp with ginger and green onion, and Liangxi-style crispy eel all offer the opportunity to taste fresh produce from the region. There are also tenand 12-course tasting menus, featuring signature dishes. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Steamed hilsa herring with 20-yearold huadiao wine Wok-fried shrimp with ginger and green onion Jinling-style salted duck AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-10 persons 296 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
CHINESE Yí 21/F, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8868 3446 cityofdreamsmacau.com/en/dine/chinese/yi cityofdreamsmacau cityofdreamsmacau TATLER SAYS Located on the Skybridge of the otherworldly Morpheus Macau, Yí is undoubtedly one of the most interesting ensembles of seasonal ingredients, meticulous techniques and rich Chinese culinary concepts to be found in Macau right now. The restaurant serves an ever-changing tasting menu inspired by the 24 solar terms of the Chinese calendar. The meticulously oven-roasted 23-day pigeon with a hint of lemongrass is a stunner. Meanwhile, the nourishing doubleboiled fish maw and sea conch soup brims with umami and sweetness. Don’t forget to spend a moment taking in the unique firewood porcelain plates used throughout the meal. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2019 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Steamed bird’s nest dumpling with superior glaze and guanciale Hot and sour fish maw soup Yí’s oven-roasted lemongrass pigeon PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,200 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-12 persons 297
FRENCH Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 3/F, Morpheus at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8868 3432 cityofdreamsmacau.com/en/dine/international/alain-ducasse-atcityofdreamsmacau alainducasseatmorpheusmacau morpheus TATLER SAYS Alain Ducasse, a titan of the culinary world, captivates diners in Macau with a space that will stun as you enter. The journey to your table winds through a luminous corridor, a prelude to the dining spectacle that awaits. The interior is a harmonious blend of modern design and classic French elegance, creating an environment that’s both intimate and grand. Ducasse’s signature dishes are masterpieces of flavour and balance, aptly reflecting his storied career and global acclaim, with highlights such as the Mediterranean gamberoni and the famed rum baba. The experience is complemented by an exceptional selection of wines, semi-private nooks, and meticulous details. SIGNATURE DISHES • • Mediterranean gamberoni with delicate gelée and gold caviar Rum baba AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 3,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 8 persons 298 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
FRENCH Brasserie Shop 3312, Level 3, The Parisian Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8111 9200 parisianmacao.com/restaurants/brasserie TheParisianMacao Parisian_macao TATLER SAYS It would be sacrilegious for a hotel called The Parisian Macao to not serve French food in some form. Thankfully, it hasn't tried to reinvent the wheel, landing on the simply named but much-lauded Brasserie to bring a touch of quintessential Parisian dining to the region. Much like its French counterparts, Brasserie offers a smorgasbord of classic fare, including foie gras with toasted brioche, coq au vin, duck confit, and steak tartare—all perfectly prepared—along with simple but chic interiors with blackand-white tile flooring, dark wood furnishings and plenty of mirrors. Book ahead for the popular Eiffel Tower afternoon tea, which features a collection of meticulously crafted sweets and savouries. The dining experience is relaxed and welcoming, with attentive staff willing to go above and beyond. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 Steak tartare Escargots de Bourgogne The Eiffel seafood tower PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 10 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 299
FRENCH Robuchon au Dôme 43/F, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau TEL: +853 8803 7878 grandlisboahotel.com grandlisboahotel grandlisboahotel TATLER SAYS From the moment you set foot into the private elevator to reach Robuchon au Dôme, this jewel of fine dining merits every plaudit. High rollers and gourmands alike are wowed by the crystal dome atop the Grand Lisboa Hotel, while the selection of wines on show takes the breath away. Legendary chef Joël Robuchon has instilled a famously demanding approach in his staff, shown by the mind-bending precision of a signature dish of crustacean jelly topped with Imperial caviar and king crab. Asian ingredients— especially Japanese— feature throughout, but this is resolutely and proudly seasonal and French, terroir-driven cooking. The dessert trolley is a magnificent demonstration of patisserie and confectionery arts, one which lives long in the memory—and quite possibly also on the diner’s Instagram. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Le Caviar de Sologne Le Boeuf Wagyu Le Black Cod AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2013-2016 • Best Sommelier, 2015 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 3,400 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 4-8 persons 300 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Shop 1031, 1/F, Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baía de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, Macau TEL: +853 8886 2169 galaxymacau.com/dining/restaurants/8-1-2-otto-e-mezzo-bombana galaxymacau ottoemezzobombana_macau TATLER SAYS Executive chef Riccardo La Perna, a Sicilian talent under the tutelage of the famed Umberto Bombana, is at the helm of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Macau. Nestled in the luxury of Galaxy Macau, the restaurant offers a menu that honours the rich flavours of Sicily and the Mediterranean infused with layers of sophistication and skill, courtesy of La Perna. The focus is on authenticity and the sheer joy of Italian cooking. From the hand-rolled pasta, which becomes a truffle-laden dream during white truffle season, to the classic tiramisu that rounds off the meal, every dish is a celebration of Italy. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Red tuna Mayura beef duo Tiramisu PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-10 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 301
ITALIAN Casa Don Alfonso 3/F, Grand Lisboa Hotel, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau TEL: +853 8803 7722 https://www.grandlisboapalace.com/en/restaurants-n-bars/dongrandlisboahotel grandlisboahotel alfonso-1890 TATLER SAYS At Casa Don Alfonso in Macau, the spirit of southern Italy is alive and thriving. This family-style, casual dining gem is considered an extension of Don Alfonso’s home, with each dish crafted with respect for tradition and a touch of originality. This includes its signature style of Neapolitan pizza topped with quality Italian ingredients, and Italian classics such as pan-fried branzino and angel hair pasta with shrimp. Stepping into Casa Don Alfonso is like being whisked away to a warm, Italian family gathering, where food is an expression of love and the dining experience is always comforting. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Spaghetti Don Alfonso Pizza Ricca Italian wild sea bass PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-12 persons 302 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
ITALIAN Don Alfonso 1890 Level 3, Palazzo Versace Macau, Grand Lisboa Palace, Rua do Tiro, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8881 1390 grandlisboapalace.com/en/restaurants-n-bars/don-alfonso-1890 grandlisboapalace grandlisboapalace TATLER SAYS Found in the glammed-up environs of the Palazzo Versace Macau, this outpost of the original familyowned restaurant in the Italian village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi is a cornucopia for the eyes, taking cues from the Versace Villa on Lake Como in everything from the terrazzo floor to the custom wallpaper and plateware rendered in the fashion house’s signature Barocco pattern. The menu is equally maximalist, with head chef Federico Pucci teasing the flavours of southern Italy into modern iterations of classic recipes. Cue the use of San Marzano tomatoes, Nocellara del Belice olives and Namonte lemons from Ristorante Don Alfonso’s own farm, Le Peracciole, in Punta Campanella on the Amalfi coast. An authentic pizza oven ensures that the pizzas here hew closely to the Neapolitan style, while the huge wine list is something to be marvelled at. SIGNATURE DISHES • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,000 • PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8-12 persons • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE “Oberto” Fassona beef tenderloin and guanciale Handmade tagliolini pasta with black truffle Il nostro tiramisu 303
JAPANESE Hiro by Hiroshi Kagata Shop 1048, 1/F, The Venetian Macao, Estrada da Baía de N Senhora da Esperança, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 venetianmacao.com/restaurants/hiro.html VenetianMacao thevenetianmacao TATLER SAYS Drawing on the traditions of kaiseki, multicourse Japanese cuisine, from Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo), the best meals here are to be savoured over a few hours. Executive chef, Hiroshi Kagata has enjoyed a culinary career of more than 35 years, receiving accolades for his menus across Australia, Thailand, Singapore, India and Macau. Here, the omakase uses the finest ingredients and techniques, providing the chance to taste the likes of Japanese Wagyu, sea urchin, geoduck and Hokkaido king crab. Upscale variations on ramen noodle soup are one of the many signatures here. Seating options include at the sushi and sashimi counters, or tempura and teppanyaki areas. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Spiny lobster tempura Assorted sashimi Japanese Wagyu teppanyaki PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,000 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 8 persons 304 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
JAPANESE Mizumi G/F, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Macau TEL: +853 8986 3663 wynnresortsmacau.com/en/wynn-macau/dining/mizumi wynnmacauresort wynn.macau TATLER SAYS Wynn’s flagship Japanese restaurant boasts two locations in the casino city, at the Macau-side resort as well as at Wynn Palace. Both are expansive and blowsy in the usual Macanese style, with a lightspangled tree forming the centrepiece at the latter. The menu covers the breadth of Japanese cuisine, from sushi and tempura to teppanyaki—often with dedicated counters for each discipline where you can watch the cooking up close—but the cooking oftentimes takes liberties, contemporising classics for a modern palate. Naturally, sake is the preferred choice for food pairings here, and the staff are more than happy to offer informed recommendations. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Omakase sashimi Yaeyama premium A5 Wagyu teppanyaki Smoked salmon marinated in soy sauce PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 8 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE 305
PORTUGESE Chiado Shop 2206, Level 2, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8113 8988 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/chiado LondonerMacao The_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS This casual but chic spot at The Londoner Macao is set to be a go-to in the region. Helmed by renowned Portuguese chef Henrique Sá Pessoa— and named after the Lisbon neighbourhood where his twoMichelin-starred restaurant, Alma, is located—Chiado brings guests simple, flavourful dishes that showcase Portugal’s best modern culinary traditions in a setting that hints at modern Portuguese design. The ubiquitous salted cod is on the menu, yes, but in an elevated preparation that roasts the fish and pairs it with a chickpea purée and vinaigrette. The showstopper, though, is Pessoa’s famous slow-cooked suckling pig, simmered for 24 hours for melt-inyour-mouth tenderness and served with sweet potato purée, bak choy and orange, best complemented with a rich port from the Portugual-focused wine list. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • 306 Foie gras, apple, granola, beetroot and coffee Suckling pig confit with turnip top purée, pickled onion and pepper jus Chocolate bomb with salted caramel and hazelnut sorbet PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 24 persons WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
PORTUGESE Guincho a Galera 3/F, Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa, Macau TEL: +853 8803 7676 hotelisboa.com/dining/guincho-a-galera hotelisboamacau hotelisboamacau TATLER SAYS This sister restaurant of the decorated Fortaleza do Guincho in Lisbon feels a world apart from the glitz and glamour of the rest of the Hotel Lisboa resort, with classic supper club interiors setting the tone for a meal laced with gravitas. Featuring many ingredients that are flown directly from Portugal, the menu is a showcase of generations-old recipes like the deep-fried salt cod with scrambled egg and asparagus prepared tableside, roasted suckling pig and the royal duck rice, which are arguably the best examples found in Macau. The wine list also makes for good reading, given the 17,000 labels it assembles from the resort’s immaculate cellar. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • Tatler Dining 20, 2014 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Seafood rice with Boston lobster, shrimps and clams Alentejo-style black pork with clams Royal duck rice PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 10 persons 307
STEAKHOUSE Copa Steakhouse Level 3, Sands Macao, No. 203 Largo de Monte Carlo, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 sandsmacao.com/dining/fine-dining/copa-steakhouse Sandsmacao TATLER SAYS With quality meats, vintage steakhouse vibes, warm service and a wine list full of perfect pairings, Copa Steakhouse checks all the boxes. This Sands Macao restaurant has turned prime cuts into an art form, with a great choice of steaks—bone-in, ribeye, tenderloin and New York strip from the US, Australia and Japan— grilled and elevated with a choice of luxe toppings including half a grilled lobster and opulent sauces. For those not into turf, the menu also boasts plenty of surf options, such as live Boston lobster. The earthtoned decor is straight out of the ’80s—think patterned carpets, polished wood cabinets and a crackling fireplace—adding to the restaurant’s charm. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Copa chilled seafood extravaganza USDA prime tomahawk steak Maine lobster bisque with brandy PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 800 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for up to 10 persons 308 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
STEAKHOUSE SW Steakhouse G/F, North Esplanade, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8889 3663 wynnresortsmacau.com/en/wynn-palace/dining/sw-steakhouse wynnpalace wynn.palace TATLER SAYS Ensconced in Wynn Palace is a haven for meat lovers in the form of SW Steakhouse, so named after the initials of the casino empire’s founder, Steve Wynn. A spacious foyer leads into a large main dining area with high ceilings and ivory-toned interiors; a stage commands one entire wall, from which vignettes of film classics are acted out at regular intervals to spice up the dining experience. On the menu, you’ll find a selection of the best cuts of protein sourced from around the world. There’s olive-fed A5 Wagyu from Shodoshima in Japan, applewoodsmoked Margaret River Chateaubriand, and Rubia Gallega from Spain. These are complemented by Bresse chicken, Arctic toothfish and Alaskan king crab—the best of land and sea. While the restaurant boasts a cocktail bar, we’d recommend skipping it for the formidable list of red wines to pair with your steak. SIGNATURE DISHES AWARDS: • Macau Top 20, 2024 PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 2,000 • • PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-8 persons • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE SW Seafood Spectacula Rangers Valley black market dry-aged bone-in rib-eye Maryland-style crab cake 309
THAI The Mews Level 1, The Londoner Macau, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai Strip, Macau TEL: +853 8118 8822 londonermacao.com/macau-restaurants/the-mews.html LondonerMacao the_londoner_macao TATLER SAYS Within The Londoner Macao hotel, the interiors of this restaurant reflect the historical life of a wellheeled London stable in a mews, or a small cul de sac, in the British capital’s most desirable neighbourhoods. A door then opens into dining areas where Thai cultural accents abound. À la carte and tasting menus with dishes from across Thailand are devised by chef Nongnuch “Nuch” Sae-eiw who brings over 20 years of experience including at awardwinning and Michelinrated restaurants in Thailand. A ninecourse tasting set can be paired with wine, and features the likes of steamed spotted garoupa with chilli and lime; and French duck breast in green curry sauce with grapes and lychees. Thai-inspired cocktails also await. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • Langoustine and tiger prawn salad Sunflower chicken tom kha soup French duck breast in green curry sauce with grapes and lychees PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 1,500 PRIVATE ROOMS: 3 rooms for 6-10 persons 310 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
THAI Saffron 31/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau TEL: +853 8883 6061 galaxymacau.com/dining/restaurants/saffron galaxymacau galaxymacau TATLER SAYS First opened in 2011, Galaxy Macau’s flagship Thai restaurant is helmed today by Nahm alum Jan Ruangnukulkit, who cooks up an extensive menu of Thai dishes that walk the line between tradition and modernity. Street food and home-style dishes are elevated with a vast array of herbs and spices, as seen in plates plucked from the breadth of Thailand like aromatic tom yum tiger prawn soup, southern-style Alaskan king crab curry, and wok-fried assorted mushrooms with Thai acacia. But beyond the à la carte offerings, guests can also indulge in everything from happy hour to tasting menus against the backdrop of the 31st-floor views overlooking the rest of Cotai. SIGNATURE DISHES • • • AWARDS: Macau Top 20, 2024 • THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Tom yum goong Alaska king crab in spicy yellow curry Stir-fried tender beef in southern spicy curry PRICE PER HEAD: MOP 600 311
Best Bars
001 Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3559 2600 001bar 001.hk TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2023 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$160 Hong Kong’s first speakeasy, 001 vacated its underground sanctuary in 2022, but after a short hiatus it’s causing drinkers to get completely lost once again—this time in the alleys of Tai Kwun—in search of a good cocktail. Still found behind an unmarked black door, its mixologists craft a tightly edited shortlist of signatures—most of which tread in the footsteps of influential recipes from the canon of American cocktails. Lighter libations of note include the Earl Grey Marteani, while classics such as the Rob Roy attest to 001’s reputation for working with underrated spirits. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Earl Grey Marteani Piñacillin Yuzutini Apothecary Unit 3A, Carfield Commercial Building, 75-77 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2893 8633 apothecaryhk apothecary_hk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Nestled in the heart of Wyndham Street, Apothecary oozes oldworld charm with its vintage decor, botanicalinspired cocktails and a view of Tai Kwun’s colonial architecture. On the current menu, called Calm Before The Storm, the mixologist team has experimented with spices, herbs and even bone marrow to create cocktails that are a heady mix of interesting textures, flavours, aromas and visuals. Each cocktail is inspired by unexpected flavour combinations, making these libations truly one of a kind. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Wolf Peach Highball Quintessential Negroni Benevolent Singularity 313
Argo Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3196 8882 fourseasons.com argobarhk TATLER SAYS There’s something almost magical about the atmosphere at Argo, with the mellow green tones, floating terrariums and floor-to-ceiling windows with expansive views over the harbour. It’s a great spot if you need a reminder that this city knows how to show people a good time— particularly visitors. The dreamlike aura and comfortably squashy banquette seating make it an ideal date-night hangout or girls’-nightout destination. Cocktails are creative and almost always conversationstarters, celebrating local flavours and culture without being obvious. Remember that its forte is cocktails, and grab dinner first— bar eats are on the scanty side. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Argo Martini To the Valley Below Igneous Gibson AWARDS: • Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 • Best Service, 2023 • Best New Bar, 2022 AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$170 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 20 persons Artifact Shop 5 & 7, LG/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 6468 8762 artifactbar.com artifacthk TATLER SAYS Hidden at the back of the Basehall 02 food hall lies the most unexpected bar. Artifact will have you thinking you’re drinking a cocktail in space, with its futuristic architecture and design by Nelson Chow that resembles an underground cistern. Its Dry Cuban cocktail is one for the books, but be sure to order the tsukune wings and Wagyu korokke to round out a good time. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Martinez Gin Rickey Gimlet AWARDS: Best Interior Design, 2023 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$170 314 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
The Aubrey Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2825 4001 mandarinoriental.com/en/hong-kong/victoria-harbour/dine/the-aubrey theaubreyhk TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$160 PRIVATE ROOMS: 2 rooms for 14-25 persons Hidden away on the 25th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, The Aubrey’s location is definitely exclusive. With clear nods to the eccentric Japanese izakaya experience, the bar and restaurant is made up of the dimly lit and beautifully designed bar area, a drawing room and intimate lounge. It’s a place where Japanese spirits are celebrated, drinks appear elegant and simple, yet a unique balance of flavours lies within each expertly crafted cocktail. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Rokku Torii Mori Bar Buonasera 7/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2111 4444 barbuonasera.com buonaserahk barbuonaserahk TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$170 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE This outpost of an Osaka-based bar attracts a loyal following for delicately crafted cocktails by head bartender Nick Tse and wife Ayako Miyake. The bar provides an intimate space for anyone to experience the magic of Japanese mixology, while serving as a training ground for bartenders looking to learn the ritualistic ways of the Japanese cocktail bar. The whisky collection is not one to be sniffed at, and bottles can be bought in their entirety and taken home. Nick-san, as he’s fondly referred to by peers and regulars alike, regularly hosts cocktail-making classes for budding enthusiasts. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Doraemon Don Don Donki Tea Corner 315
Bar De Luxe 7/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3706 5716 bardeluxehk.com bardeluxehk bar_de_luxe TATLER SAYS From Tokyo’s Ginza to Hong Kong, Bar De Luxe was brought over by renowned bartender Hidetsugu Ueno of High Five bar fame in 2017. Located in H Code, the bar melds Japanese aesthetics with contemporary design and offers cocktails that reflect this, always with a touch of Asian flavour and creativity. Food options are very limited and you may want to skip bar snacks altogether, but there is a comprehensive list of whiskies and spirits to try. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Cigarette Huntsman Black Negroni AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 Bar Leone 15 Bridges Street, Central, Hong Kong barleonehk.com barleonehk TATLER SAYS Opened this year by ex-Argo mixologist Lorenzo Antinori, this watering hole has that magic touch that immediately whisks drinkers away to Rome, with no shortage of frozen cappuccinos, Negronis and photos of the Pope along the way. Inspired by local watering holes in Antinori’s old neighbourhood of Trastevere in Rome, with a mahogany bar, burnt orange banquettes and vintage memorabilia, the bar is inviting and unpretentious, and the 316 food and drinks are delicious. Don’t skip the mortadella sandwich. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Olive Oil Sour Negroni Classico Filthy Martini AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2023 Best New Bar, 2023 Best Food Programme, 2023 • • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Bianco & Rosso 29 Gough Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2813 1669 biancoandrosso.com biancoandrosso.hk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 PRIVATE ROOMS: 1 room for 20 persons As the first vermouth bar in Hong Kong, Bianco & Rosso dives deep into the world of fortified wines. This ingredient is most frequently found in martinis and Negronis, but there’s much more to it—and that’s what the bar team here are interested in educating guests about. They do this through an extensive menu of Italian, Spanish and French vermouths ranging from bone dry to very sweet, as well as vermouth-forward cocktails. The food menu is comprehensive too, with bar snacks and sharing plates that boast Mediterranean flavours. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Gemini Martini Nestretto Adonis Blue Supreme 21 Tung Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5998 3088 bluesupremehk bluesupremehk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Tucked away in Upper Lascar Row is Blue Supreme, a neighbourhood gastropub whose allure extends far beyond its immediate surroundings. The staff here are extremely competent and helpful. From the day’s special to the beers, they’ll advise you with expertise. The food is moreish and the beer selection is extensive, encompassing Belgian sours and lambic brews rarely found elsewhere in the city. All in all, a welcoming place in the heart of Sheung Wan to indulge in the joys of craft beer. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • Seasonal craft beers Natural wine 317
Caprice Bar Podium 6, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3196 8882 fourseasons.com capricehongkong capricehongkong TATLER SAYS For the epitome of luxury in the world of mixology, Caprice Bar is the last word. The luxuriant space carries forward the spirit of its famed sister restaurant on a cocktail menu that pays homage to the different regions of France and their associated produce, while Caprice’s famously extensive wine list is also available. The food menu features a selection of à la carte dishes from Caprice’s repertoire, as well as the option to pick from the decadent cheeseboard. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Du Beurre et du Rhum Espresso Martini Calvados Fizz AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$220 Carbon Brews Shop 01, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5409 4840 carbonbrews.com carbonbrews carbonbrews TATLER SAYS A sleek yet laidback space, Carbon Brews makes you feel welcome whether you’re coming straight from playing a tennis match or from your anniversary dinner. This may be a taphouse with a complete range of the brand’s own-label pours and a smattering of offerings from betterknown names, but it’s not just for the beer nerds. Check out the cocktails, which range from classics to the highly imaginative, and do ask for recommendations: the staff know their stuff. 318 SIGNATURE DRINKS • Seasonal craft beers AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$100 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Cardinal Point Forty-Five, 43-45/F, Gloucester Tower, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3501 8560 cardinalpoint.com.hk cardinalpointhk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$160 As Hong Kong’s latest rooftop bar and restaurant boasting exceptional city vistas, the setting at Cardinal Point is effortlessly chic yet comfortable to lounge in. The cocktails by mixologist John Nugent offer a tropical twang, complementing the indoor bar and outdoor terrace experience superbly, as well as delivering unexpected flavour profiles that will likely surprise and delight. The bar provides plenty of food and snack options. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Coconut Old Fashioned Apple Bottom Pandan Highball Coa Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2813 5787 coa.com.hk coahongkong @coahongkong TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Bartender of the Year, 2023 Impact Award, 2023 Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 Best Drinks Programme, 2022 • • • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE A Mexican-inspired bar where agave-based cocktails confidently claim the spotlight. It may require multiple attempts to gain entry but Coa is worth the wait. A select number of guests are admitted at a time, ensuring an ambience with just the right hum and cadence. Cocktails span a range of flavours, from piquant and savoury to rich and complex, with some showcasing distinct Asian notes. Above all, the sagacious staff are genuinely warm and impart knowledge that enhances an already outstanding bar experience. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Ancho Highball Coconut Milk Punch Bitter Melon Collins 319
The Daily Tot Shop E, LG/F, Felicity Building, 58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2366 6836 thedailytot.com dailytot.hk dailytot.hk TATLER SAYS This bar at the lower end of Peel Street continues its mission to promote rum in Asia, pulling all the strings it can to change the perception of the spirit into an artisanal product that can hold its own in craft cocktails or be sipped neat. Its current menu traces the history of sugarcane and how it came to be used in the production of rum, offering insights into the spirit while making for delicious drinks. But the bar doesn’t take itself too seriously— on Fridays and at weekends, it is loud, vibrant and diverse, mirroring the culture of rum’s birthplace in the Caribbean. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Call Me Rico Suave PB&G Rum Runner Spritz AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 Darkside Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3891 8732 rosewoodhotels.com/en/hong-kong/dining/darkside darksidebarhk darksidebar TATLER SAYS Darkside offers stunning panoramic views of Victoria Harbour from its perch in Rosewood Hong Kong. Beyond the breathtaking ambience, rich decor and live jazz, the polished yet warm service elevates the experience. The latest cocktail menu, themed along the concept of yin and yang, explores the duality of light and dark, featuring prodigious use of Chinese botanicals and presented in stunning, custom-made glassware. The spectacular setting, creative cocktails and 320 refined yet inviting atmosphere make The Darkside a memorable place to while away an evening in the sky above Victoria Harbour. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Martini Vs Vesper Cable Car Rosita AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 Best Service, 2022 Best New Bar, 2020 • • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$170 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour Shop B31A, B1/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2111 9449 mingfathouse.com/dr-ferns drfernshk drfernshk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$140 Finding Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour is easy—it’s located at the Landmark Atrium basement—but figuring out which of the two doors opens into the bar is trickier. Once you’ve worked that out, you’ll find yourself in a gin lovers’ paradise. The menu has hundreds of gins categorised by four flavour profiles: juniper and citrus; fruity and floral; spicy and savoury; and sweet. The “simple” gin and tonic gets a refined twist with the addition of cinnamon, yuzu peel and more. There’s a cocktail menu too, as well as bar snacks such as a ham and sausage platter. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Doctor’s Ramble Fig Fever Heart Rhythm Ticker The Envoy 3/F, The Pottinger, 74 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2169 3311 theenvoy.hk theenvoyhk theenvoyhk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$140 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE The Envoy is a sweltering hotspot in Hong Kong’s balmy summers, yet it still offers consistently refreshing cocktails that help patrons beat the heat. Standout drinks include its signature cocktail “pepper pots”— a delicious blend of pink peppercorn redistilled gin, Hendrick’s Gin, lemon juice, rose, pomegranate and champagne. However, what stands out most about The Envoy is the wide variety of small plates that accompany the drinks. They include western snacks alongside Hong Kong favourites and Indian-inspired cuisine, creating an eclectic but sophisticated atmosphere that is casual yet stylish. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Early Bird Dewdrops of the Heart Crimson Sunbird 321
The Green Door G/F, 97 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong thegreendoor.bar TATLER SAYS Hidden downstairs in an “art gallery” behind a green velvet curtain is The Green Door, Central’s latest speakeasy-style bar. The space has a subterranean, futuristic yet retro feel which works to showcase the minimalist yet polished food and drinks it offers. From the selection of tasty, fruit-laden highballs and twists on classic beverages such as the Bloody Mary to elevated takes on simple dishes including clams on the half shell and fried prawns, this is a great spot for a date or a group of friends. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Maya Elizabeth Diane AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 Honky Tonks Tavern Man Hing Lane, Central, Hong Kong honkytonkstavern.com honkytonkstavern honkytonkstavern TATLER SAYS No-frills cocktails and a crowd-pleasing menu of fried chicken and pizza are the name of the game at Honky Tonks Tavern, a dimly lit watering hole that has all the hallmarks of an episode of Cheers. There’s no pretence around the drinkslinging here, though the cocktails still deliver on a nuanced profile despite the seemingly simple recipes. Service is friendly in a jocular way, and it’s easy to see why the crowds routinely spill out the door here. 322 SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Mucho Danger Stampede Honkstar Martini AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$100 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
La Cabane G/F, 62 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2776 6070 lacabane.hk lacabanehk TATLER SAYS An institution and a magnet for Francophiles (and actual French), La Cabane is the kind of slightly dishevelled, heartwarming wine bar that you know you can rely on for a great glass or two while pecking at charcuterie and bumping into people you know. A great place to discover lesser-known artisanal growers and natural or biodynamic wines. SIGNATURE DRINKS • Natural wine with over 15 choices by the glass AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$110 Mizunara: The Library 4/F, Kiu Yin Commercial Building, 361-363 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3571 9797 mizunarathelibrary.com Mizunara.The.Library mizunarathelibrary TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$170 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Japanese aesthetics meet premium whiskies at this speakeasy that’s hidden in plain sight inside a Wan Chai commercial building. Their whisky library is comprehensive, featuring not only wellknown whisky regions such as Scotland and Japan, but also upcoming ones like India. The signature cocktails use mainly Japanese botanicals such as shiso leaf and Kyoho grape. Add to that a Japanese garden, comfortable wood-and- leather seating, and bar bites such as a cheese platter and chocolate, and you’ve got a bar that is worth going back to. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Nagomi Kohbai Yuzu Shiso Smash 323
Mostly Harmless 2/F, 110 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong mostlyharmlessbar TATLER SAYS Mostly Harmless is the spot for bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts alike. It keeps the “menu” simple: four star ingredients—rotated regularly—are written on the tile walls for guests to order from, and are transformed into drinks that highlight their different flavour profiles, which vary from refreshing to rich. With its cosy ambience, the recently expanded ground floor still retains the feeling of drinking in someone’s kitchen, so expect to chat with the team while you’re there. SIGNATURE DRINKS • Hyper-seasonal cocktails AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2023 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 The Old Man 37 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong theoldmanhongkong.com theoldmanhk theoldman_hk TATLER SAYS The Old Man is where the art of mixology and appreciation for Ernest Hemingway meet—and flourish. The menu can read like another language, with a plethora of uncommon ingredients and alcohols combined in unique ways, but it results in delicious cocktails, aptly named after elements of Hemingway’s work and life. Art decostyle finishings adorn the intimate yet highceilinged space, which maintains a steady ebb and flow of customers 324 throughout the evening who are curious to expand their palate. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Doomsday Big Catch Story of Victory AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022 Best Cocktails, 2018 • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
PDT The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2132 0110 mandarinoriental.com/en/hong-kong/the-landmark/dine/pdt pdthongkong pdthongkong TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Best New Bar, 2019 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$180 This Hong Kong outpost of the iconic New York speakeasy has really come into its own. Concealed behind a phone booth, it’s an intimate space consisting of just 25 seats. Quirky taxidermy and a copper bar give a nod to the original, while the drinks and bar snacks on offer tell a quintessentially Hong Kong story. The regular Sunday School series also turns the bar into an educational space, with masterclasses from experts on all manner of spirits. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Benton’s Old Fashioned Pina Colada Caprese Penicillin L/G, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9880 7995 penicillinbar.com penicillinbar penicillin_bar TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Rising Star, 2023 Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 Bar Initiative of the Year, 2022 • • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Found on Hollywood Road is Penicillin, a cloistered cocktail den lined with brown glass bottles and white laboratorystyle tiled walls that create an atmosphere of experimentation. The drinks are complex, flavoursome and delightfully presented, with unique combinations that draw from Asian ingredients. Don’t skip the bar bites either, which have bold and punchy flavours, and come in portions that qualify as meals. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Our Final Warming When The River Run Dry The Original 325
Ping Pong 129 L/G, Nam Cheong House, 129 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9835 5061 pingpong129.com pingpong129 pingpong129 TATLER SAYS A Sai Ying Pun staple, Ping Pong 129 is the place for a solid gin and tonic and delightful tapas. The large space can host all manner of parties—first dates, family gatherings and friend groups alike— although you notice the absence of people when the bar is quiet. Gins from small-scale producers are enhanced with artisanal tonics, mixers and garnishes to elevate the triedand-true format of the gin and tonic. There are other cocktails available too, while the food menu celebrates quality ingredients and fuses western and Asian dishes. SIGNATURE DRINKS • Artisanal G&Ts AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 Quinary 56-58 Hollywood Road Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2851 3223 quinary.hk quinaryhk quinaryhk TATLER SAYS Reaching the milestone of a decade in Hong Kong’s ruthless F&B business is no easy feat, yet Quinary has done it with aplomb. Founder-mixologist Antonio Lai is still very much involved in creating new and wacky libations that push the envelope of molecular mixology, making this stalwart a must-visit on the local bar circuit. At Quinary, guests are treated to an experience where each creation, including the highly popular Earl Grey Caviar Martini, is an alchemy of flavour, scent and texture. 326 SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Earl Grey Caviar Martini Lavender Meringue Pie Gents O’Clock AWARDS: Top 10 Bars, 2022-2023 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Room 309 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong room309.hk room309hk room309hk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 If you want to feel like you’re in an elegant 1930s speakeasy, “check in” to Room 309 at The Pottinger. Requesting entrance to this private bar adds an element of theatre to the experience—once inside, the dark furnishings, art deco details and jazz tunes transport you. The extensive menu demonstrates a high level of mixology that caters to all palates, emphasising clarified cocktails that pack a punch and creative twists on classic flavour combinations. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Crystal Old Fashioned Gone Gimlet Insam Tang The Savory Project 4 Staunton Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2318 1588 thesavoryproject.com thesavoryproject_ TATLER SAYS AWARDS: • Best Drinks Programme, 2023 • Top 10 Bars, 2023 AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Helmed by one of the youngest founders in the business, Ajit Gurung, alongside Jay Khan of Coa, this intimate bar is defining the category of savoury cocktails in an innovative fashion, along with non-alcoholic cocktails that match their spirited counterparts in concept and execution. Predominantly featuring cocktails based on notes of earthy or umami character, with the use of ingredients such as meat, fungi, brine and more, the concept came from Khan and Gurung’s observation of an increase in customer requests over the years for less sugar or sweetness in their drinks. Foremost on the menu are house riffs on savoury classics like the Gibson, alongside originals like the Thai Beef Salad—a close cousin to Coa’s own deliciously umami Bloody Beef Maria. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Gari Gari Thai Beef Salad Michelada 327
Second Draft Shop H01, G/F, Fashion Walk, 9 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong TEL: +852 5648 0770 seconddraft.hk SecondDraftHK seconddrafthk TATLER SAYS Expect good food, interesting beers and surprisingly great cocktails at Second Draft in Causeway Bay. Sharing a space with Little Bao Diner, the ambience at Second Draft is intimate and spirited, featuring hightop chairs encircling the main bar and additional countertops. Service is informed and amiable, while food, expressly tailored for drinking, excels in execution, raising the experience with dishes such as “Jer Jer” buffalo wings and fuyu carbonara. The bar boasts a diverse selection of beers, while its unexpectedly impressive cocktails round off the offerings here. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • By the Seashore The Grape Gatsby Let’s Go Nuts! 2.0 AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 The Shady Acres 46 Peel Street, Central, Hong Kong theshadyacres.com theshadyacres theshadyacres TATLER SAYS Shady, as this Peel Street haunt is widely known, isn’t your average wine bar. Offering a concise yet approachable list of vino, along with some of the most satisfying bites anywhere in Soho, The Shady Acres has built up a loyal following for its raucous atmosphere, friendly service, and dishes like the Impossible Cheeseburger and Wagyu flank steak that consistently satisfy our midnight cravings. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Retrograde Lemonade Italian Job Daily Boozy Slushie AWARDS: Best Food Programme, 2022 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$110 328 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
The St Regis Bar 2/F, The St Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2138 6800 marriottbonvoyasia.com/restaurants-bars/The-St-Registhestregisbarhk stregisbarhk Hong-Kong-The-St-Regis-Bar TATLER SAYS AWARDS: Rising Star, 2022 Top 10 Bars, 2022 • • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$180 This hotel bar is a perfect escape from the city, thanks to an art decoinspired design that blends the St Regis’s New York charm with Hong Kong iconography. Similarly, the cocktail list is extensive, creative and delicious, paying homage to the history of Hong Kong’s tramlines and New York’s Subway. The Violet Hour here is a sophisticated way to begin the evening, comprising a martini cart that is wheeled table to table and poured tableside. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Canto Mary Violet Hour Martini Corn ’n’ Oil Stockton 32 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2565 5268 stockton.com.hk stocktonhk stocktonhk TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$140 PRIVATE ROOMS: 8 rooms for 6-12 persons THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Though it’s located in bustling Central, Stockton is hard to find. But once inside, you’ll find yourself in a cosy bar that looks straight out of Victorian London. The mellow lighting and leather sofas provide a comfortable setting in which to enjoy cocktails inspired by the colourful life of American journalist Hunter S. Thompson. The menu, titled “Creativity of Sins”, features drinks inspired by his adventures; each one offers an escape from reality through a clever mix of ingredients— and the ingenious back stories on the menu. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Curse of Lono The War Room Mad Society 329
Sugar 32/F, East Hong Kong, 29 Taikoo Shing Road, Tai Koo, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3968 3738 easthotels.com sugar.hongkong sugarhongkong TATLER SAYS East Hotel’s rooftop bar on the 32nd floor promises a stunning view of the eastern part of the Victoria Harbour. As well as classic cocktails, Sugar also offers shisha and a series of unconventional cocktails. The SS Journal cocktail menu is inspired by the colours and science of the solar system—adding to that is a fictional Planet X, a drink made with local ingredients such as Vitasoy milk for a nostalgic note. Sugar is a stellar choice to enjoy the sunset on a weekend or wind down your evening over a glass. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Earth Jupiter Planet X AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 Tell Camellia LG/F, The Steps, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 9821 5501 tellcamellia.hk tellcamellia tellcamellia TATLER SAYS The team at this hidden cocktail bar has been busy creating a menu of “teatails”, or teabased cocktails that showcase botanicalheavy recipes. But it’s the buzzing atmosphere that keeps a loyal band of drinkers coming back, helped in part by airy windows that open up on cooler days, and a sleek wooden interior that lightens up the room. The welcoming floor staff also do their best to make you feel right at home. 330 SIGNATURE DRINKS • • Darjeeling Negroni Tea Sea AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Terrible Baby 4/F, Eaton HK, 380 Nathan Road, Jordan, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2710 1866 terriblebaby.com terriblebabyhk terriblebaby TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$120 Terrible Baby is a perfect place for anyone who enjoys good music, a lush outdoor space, moody mid-century design and atmospheric views from the heart of Kowloon. The cocktails are eclectic and never take themeselves too seriously, with exceptionally walletfriendly pricing. Meanwhile, the bar snacks go down easily, though if you’re feeling particularly peckish, a food court in the basement of the Eaton hotel awaits. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Crybaby Kyoho Rusty Plum Tiffany’s New York Bar G/F, InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2585 2545 TiffanysNewYorkBar tiffanysnewyorkbar TATLER SAYS AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Nestled in the InterContinental Grand Stanford, this New York-inspired bar—replete with wooden furnishings, leather sofas, a grand piano and Old World glamour—takes diners back in time. While the place no longer runs live music performances after the pandemic, it now offers other forms of delight: a good selection of whiskies and a cigar menu. There is also a variety of cocktails to choose from—light, strong, creamy, fruity, bitter and even funky options are available. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Heart Breaker Earl Grey Milk Punch Angry Aunty 331
The Wise King Basement, Tsung Wing Lane, 25 Staunton Street, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2585 2545 thewisekinghk.com Thewisekinghk Thewisekinghk TATLER SAYS Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to this holein-the-wall cocktail bar. Despite its diminutive size, The Wise King has had an outsized impact on the local mixology scene. With just ten cocktails on the menu— in a nod to Spanish king Alfonso X, who inspired the concept behind the bar—there’s not much room for error, though co-founder Sandeep Kumar knocks it out of the park with cocktails like the Pickled Margarita and the Perfect Adonis. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Pistachio Sour Kiss the Queen Pickled Margarita AWARDS: Best New Bar Readers’ Choice, 2018 • AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$130 Zuma Level 5 & 6 Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 3657 6388 zumarestaurant.com/locations/hong-kong ZumaHongKong zumahk TATLER SAYS They say consistency is key, and Zuma has this on lock. Whether you’re in Dubai, London or Istanbul, you know you can always count on Zuma for a decadent meal, deeply flavourful cocktails and sophisticated ambience. Once you try its chilli passionfruit margarita, it’ll be hard to ever go back to a classic marg. SIGNATURE DRINKS • • • Zuma Negroni Raspberry & Passion Fruit Martini Glitter Globe Gimlet AVERAGE DRINK PRICE: HK$150 332 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
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INDEX HONG KONG RESTAURANTS British The Chinnery Lobster Bar & Grill Magistracy Dining Room Filipino 84 85 86 Cantonese The Chairman Demon Celebrity Duddell’s Dynasty Flower Drum Forum Golden Leaf Ho Lee Fook Hoi King Heen Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 Kam Tung Kitchen Kamcentre Roast Goose Kin’s Kitchen Lai Ching Heen The Legacy House Lung King Heen Man Ho Chinese Restaurant Man Wah Megan’s Kitchen Ming Court Moon Bay Nuva One Harbour Road Peony Chinese Restaurant Rú Seventh Son Ship Kee Sing Yin Cantonese Dining Spring Moon T’ang Court Tin Lung Heen Wing Yat Tung Heen Yue Yung Kee 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 Chinese Celestial Court China Tang Deng G Gold Garden Shanghai Cuisine Grand Majestic Sichuan Hop Sze Jiangsu Club Liu Yuan Pavilion The Merchants Mian Rùn Sha Tin 18 Sun Hon Kee Xin Rong Ji Yong Fu 334 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 Barkada French Ami Bâtard Belon Caprice Clarence Épure Feuille Gaddi’s L’Atelier De Joël Robuchon L’Envol Louise LPM Maison ES Petrus Racines Jean May Vivant 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 French-Chinese 155 156 157 Mora Tate Dining Room VEA French-Japanese 158 159 160 Dolos Ta Vie Whisk Indian 161 162 163 Chaat New Punjab Club Pondi International 164 165 166 167 168 169 Brut Cruise Fireside Harbourside Ozone The Lobby Lounge Italian 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Aria Asaya Kitchen Associazione Chianti Baci BluHouse Cantina Carbone Castellana Ciak In The Kitchen Cucina The Dining Room 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM
Estro Falcone Fiata Pizza Grissini Octavium Perla Posso Testina Tosca di Angelo Tuber Vista 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 Japanese The Araki Birdie Censu Decree by T Enishi Fukuro Fumi Godenya I M Teppanyaki Inakaya Kaen Teppanyaki Kanesaka Hong Kong Kappo Zuicho Kyoto Joe Nagamoto Ronin Ryota Kappou Modern Sushi Fujimoto Sushi Haré Sushi Kumogaku Sushi Mamoru Sushi Saito Sushi Shikon Sushi Zo Tempura Araki Teppanroom Teppanyaki Mihara Goten Tokio Joe Toritama Wagyumafia Yakiniku Ushio Yardbird Zest by Konishi Zoku 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 Modern Chinese Bo Innovation Cafe Bau Chinesology Little Bao Mott 32 The Praya 233 234 235 236 237 238 Modern European 1111 Ones Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social Amber Arcane Aulis Moxie Neighborhood Rex Wine & Grill Roganic Somm The Baker & The Bottleman 239 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 Scandinavian Arbor Embla 250 251 South American Buenos Aires Polo Club Uma Nota 252 253 Southeast Asian Auor Cafe Malacca Whey 254 255 256 Spanish 22 Ships Bayfare Social 257 258 Spanish-Japanese Andō 259 Steakhouse Beefbar Bostonian Seafood & Grill Grand Hyatt Steakhouse La Vache Porterhouse Seafood & Steak The Steak House 260 261 262 263 264 265 Korean Hansik Goo Mosu 227 228 Chesa 266 Thai Latin American 11 Westside Mono Swiss 229 230 Chachawan Plaa Samsen 231 232 Vegetarian 267 268 269 Middle Eastern Francis Francis West THE TATLER DINING GUIDE Veda 270 335
Vietnamese Le Garçon Saigon Sep Xuân HONG KONG BARS 271 272 273 MACAU RESTAURANTS British Churchill’s Table Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill 276 277 Cantonese Chef Tam’s Seasons Golden Court Jade Dragon Lai Heen Palace Garden Pin Yue Xuan Lakeview Palace 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 Chinese The Eight Feng Wei Ju Five Foot Road Golden Flower Imperial Court Jiang Nan by Jereme Leung La Chine Lotus Palace North Palace North Pearl Dragon The Huaiyang Garden Yí 285 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 French Alain Ducasse at Morpheus Brasserie Robuchon au Dôme 298 299 300 Italian 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Casa Don Alfonso Don Alfonso 1890 301 302 303 001 Apothecary Argo Artifact The Aubrey Bar Buonasera Bar De Luxe Bar Leone Bianco & Rosso Blue Supreme Caprice Bar Carbon Brews Cardinal Point Coa The Daily Tot Darkside Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour The Envoy The Green Door Honky Tonks Tavern La Cabane Mizunara: The Library Mostly Harmless The Old Man PDT Penicillin Ping Pong 129 Quinary Room 309 The Savory Project Second Draft The Shady Acres The St Regis Bar Stockton Sugar Tell Camellia Terrible Baby Tiffany’s New York Bar The Wise King Zuma 313 313 314 314 315 315 316 316 317 317 318 318 319 319 320 320 321 321 322 322 323 323 324 324 325 325 326 326 327 327 328 328 329 329 330 330 331 331 332 332 Japanese Hiro by Hiroshi Kagata Mizumi 304 305 Portuguese Chiado Guincho a Galera 306 307 Steakhouse Copa Steakhouse SW Steakhouse 308 309 Thai The Mews Saffron 336 310 311 WWW.TATLERASIA.COM