INTRODUCING GT DRINKS TOP DROPS, NEWS & EXPERT TIPS

LU N A R N E W Y E A R
NG

EVITY NO

SPECIAL

O
DL

104

ES

WITH L
O

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ER

p

B

FEB 2023 AU $9.99 NZ $10.99

Victor Liong’s
CELEBRATION
BANQUET

Exploring luxury Vietnam

A chef’s guide to Seoul

Food
86

The
Lunar New
Year
issue

FAMILY AFFAIR
Celebrate the Lunar New Year
with this riff on Malaysian
reunion dinner recipes.

96

106

Author and culinary stylist
Orathay Souksisavanh
shares her best bite-sized
delights in new cookbook,
Bao & Dim Sum.
Fried prawn dumplings ..... 109
Radish cake with Chinese
sausage ...............................109
Smashed cucumber .............110
Pork ginger dumplings with
XO sauce..............................111
XO sauce ..................................111

FEAST OF FORTUNE
Lee Ho Fook’s Victor Liong
shares his banquet secrets
and shortcuts to get your new
year off to an auspicious start.

Pacific oysters with sea
treasures ...............................98
Festive duck salad with sweet
plum and yuzu ...................100
Drunken spatchcock with
jellyfish, Shaoxing wine
and ginger ............................100
Steamed snapper with salted
chilli, black beans, and
preserved lemon .............. 103
Broccolini with onion oil and
shallot oyster sauce ......... 103
Southern rock lobster with
Cantonese garlic butter and
longevity noodles ............. 104
Rose tea and red fruit trifle with
vanilla cream
and osmanthus.................. 104

BUNDLES OF JOY

112

HOME DELIVERY
Chef Kwoklyn Wan serves up
your Friday night favourites in
new book, The Complete
Chinese Takeaway Cookbook.
Sichuan-style eggplant and
tofu ........................................115
Sweet soy pulled chicken ....115
Honey-glazed chilli wings ....116
Satay chicken udon
noodles .................................116
Spicy wontons........................119
Chinese egg custard
tarts .......................................119
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY.

Prosperity salad .......................88
Deep-fried coral trout with
sambal belacan ....................91
Mango and crab kerabu.........91
Malaysian-style spicy roast
chicken ..................................92
Malaysian rice salad ...............93
Duck sang choi bau................94
Burghul pudding with lime and
palm sugar syrup ................95

FEBRUARY 2023
ON THE COVER
Southern rock lobster with
Cantonese garlic butter and
longevity noodles (p104)
Recipe Victor Liong
Photography James Moffat
Styling Olivia Blackmore

Features
62
66

NOSTALGIA BITES
Three Australian writers reflect on the tastes of their
childhood Lunar New Year celebrations.

CHINA TOWN

Kevin Cheng takes a look at how Australia’s Chinatowns
are recovering from the effects of the global pandemic.

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132
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154

70
74

DOWN MEMORY LANE
Lee Tran Lam gathers cherished Lunar New Year memories
from local chefs, restaurateurs and personalities.

BACK OF HOUSE PARTY
A behind-the-scenes peek at how hospo staff celebrate
the Lunar New Year while plating up for the public.

UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.
FIVE OF A KIND Egg noodles.
A QUICK WORD Douglas Lim.
THE KITCHEN GARDENER Pineapples.
COMMUNITY X KYLIE Benjamin Law.
REVIEW Dining out.
DRINKS The latest drinks news.

Travel
124

SLOW AND STEADY
Step away from big city bustle and take a tranquil train
journey through scenic Vietnam with Hannah-Rose Yee.

WINE COUNTRY Yarra Valley.
COCKTAIL HOUR Lunar Eclipse.
EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals.
MASTERCLASS Kek lapis.
THE ART OF TRAVEL Sharing.
A CHEF’S GUIDE Seoul, South Korea.
CHECKING IN Hotel Vera, Ballarat.
STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE Ceramics.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

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Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
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134

CITY FLING
Some of the best places to eat, drink and stay
in Singapore – with an emphasis on eat.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Joanna Hunkin
Editor
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Words
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Food
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Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Digital
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Digital Editor Cordelia Williamson

Contributors
Kevin Cheng, Ned Goodwin, Michael Harden, Anna Hart,
Matty Hirsch, Kylie Kwong, Hetty Lui McKinnon, Samantha Payne,
Simon Rickard, Jessica Rigg, Ange Seen Yang, Katie Spain,
Diem Tran, Max Veenhuyzen, Harvard Wang, Hannah-Rose Yee.

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Details p82

I don’t so much remember my first Chinese New Year
celebration, as I can still feel it. The bass of the drums
rumbling up through my feet, taking over my whole
body as my four-year-old heart began to beat in time
with the rhythm; the electric jolt of cymbals clashing as
a fur-trimmed, yellow lion’s head bobbed its way through
our school playground, its huge eyes blinking playfully
before chomping on a lettuce (a symbol of wealth and
prosperity, I would later learn).
Growing up in Hong Kong, Chinese New Year was
always part of my life. But it was only as I grew older
that I learned just how far reaching and diverse Lunar
New Year traditions could be. From Tết in Vietnam
and Seollal in South Korea, to Malaysia, Singapore,
the Philippines and more, an estimated two billion
people will celebrate the Lunar New Year this month.
And at the heart of all those festivities will be food.
For this issue, we invited a number of contributors
to share their Lunar New Year memories, traditions,
and recipes, to help paint a fuller, brighter picture of
this special time and welcome the Year of the Rabbit
(or the Year of the Cat for those following the
Vietnamese zodiac). My special thanks to Lee Tran
Lam for guest editing our features section this month
and helping to share these stories. We wish you all
a prosperous – and delicious – year ahead.

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Capi Cocktail Mixers
The clever gang at Capi in
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sparkle with their latest release
of ready-to-pour cocktail mixers.
Their low-sugar Margarita mix
is especially welcome on a warm
summer’s afternoon. BYO tequila.
capi.com.au

Ironclad Knives
When we heard Ironclad had created
knife handles from engineered wool,
we were a little skeptical. But we
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Raised by Wolves by Jess Ho
Hospo veteran-turned-food writer
Jess Ho serves up deeply
compelling reading in their memoir
Raised by Wolves. Salty, spicy
and, at times, bitterly raw, it’s
essential reading for those who
love to dine out – and a sharp
reminder to be a decent diner.

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

9

Contributors

Gaea

10

80

ALVIN QUAH

HARVARD WANG

DIEM TRAN

chef and recipe developer

photographer

writer

Banquet table, p96
Funny, vibrant and known for his
inimitable collection of glasses,
Alvina Quah remains on a mission
to increase awareness of Malaysian
cuisine. Born in Kuala Lumpur with
Chinese-Malaysian heritage, his
ultimate food dream is to make
Malaysian cuisine as beloved as
Chinese or Thai. In this issue, he
calls upon his mother’s recipes and
his own for a feast fit to welcome in
a prosperous new year. Quah says,
“I’m biased but I believe Lunar New
Year is the epitome of celebrating
food in all its unadulterated glory.”

Back of house party, p74
Having always being intrigued by
the relationship between memories
and food, Wang explored how this
plays out in Melbourne restaurants
for this issue. “Imagine your children
or loved ones working on Christmas
Eve, away from family – that’s
exactly what most Asians in
hospitality are going through during
their own new year,” says Wang.
“I want to celebrate their sacrifices.
Some heroes don’t wear capes;
they wear aprons.” You will also find
his photography in our travel guide
to Singapore on p134.

Nostalgia bites, p62
Enthusiastic baker, digital strategist
and writer Diem Tran was first
published in Australian food book
New Voices on Food: Anthology 1,
and has since gone on to write for
SBS Food and ABC Everyday. In
this issue, Tran taps into fond food
memories of Lunar New Year, that
were both delicious and a little
destructive. “Bánh chu’ng is the
resulting treat and was worth the
patchy, burnt lawn,” says Tran.
“With any luck, the next generation
will continue to gather and make
this dish to welcome in the year.”

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY MARNYA ROTHE (QUAH) & HARVARD WANG (GAEA).

p

Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.

Rottnest Island, WA
The boat trip may be a little bumpy to this island
getaway but the crayfish, sequestered bays (like
this one called Geordie’s, which is home to chilled
stringrays and ever calm waters) make it a must-do
when visiting WA. The quokkas may have been
in hiding, but Rotto lived up to the fanfare.
Jordan Kretchmer, news editor

Château de Sacy, France
There’s something surreal and utterly
enchanting about a window seat in
a restaurant with 360-degree views
across the vineyards of Reims, glass
of Champagne in hand, naturally.
Katie Spain, SA state editor

Joshua Tree, California
Just a two-hour drive from LA will land you
in this impressive national park, renowned
for its incredible rock formations. The
park is stunning from dawn til dusk but
even better by night, when the lack of
light pollution makes for a world class
stargazing experience.
Holly Doran, designer

Redbird, Sydney
Delicate slivers of firm tofu, seasoned with five
spice and Sichuan pepper, make this a hot
contender for the city’s best salad this summer.
Subtle and aromatic, it’s the surprise standout
at Redfern’s excellent new local.
Joanna Hunkin, editor

12

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Cordeaux Social Club, Brisbane
A vinegary mussel escabeche is always
a good time. But pop this Spanish
flavour bomb atop a puffy disc of fried
Hungarian flatbread, add a fiery base of
’nduja, dill sprigs and cucamelon slices
and you’ve got a perfect bar snack.
Fiona Donnelly, Qld state editor

Crystalbrook Riley, Cairns

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H O L I D AY I N E V E R Y WAY
Take your tastebuds on a tantalising, gourmet getaway - first stop, the dreamy culinary creations at
Wonderland™. Take in panoramic views as you ascend 91 metres in the North Star observation capsule.
Head ashore and explore local markets, wine trails and hidden eateries. Back onboard, towel up for
a tranquil spa treatment and wrap up the night with jaw-dropping entertainment at Two70®.

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FEBRUARY

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

Pinky Ji

p

17

FUNKY AND FRESH
Hot summer pop-ups, new restaurant openings, food
festivals to book ahead, an Australian wine bar in
America and a Hobart café that gives back.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

15

e pair

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S

Clockwise
from left: chef
Dan Pepperell
leads the kitchen
at Clam Bar and
Grill; the dining
room at the Rover
and beef tartare
with sea urchin.
16

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clam Bar Restaurant and Grill is the
latest venture from the team behind
Bistrot 916 and Pellegrino 2000, set to
take over the former site of The Bridge
Room in the CBD. Taking cues from
lauded New York steakhouses but with
a sharper focus on seafood, the
restaurant’s kitchen will be led by Dan
Pepperell, joined by head chef Sam
Galloway. “Most of the menu is heavily
seafood-orientated, with a classic couple
of steaks. It’s influenced by that New
York-style grill and will have a slightly
American vibe, and classic style,” says
Pepperell. There will be choose-your-own
condiments (think housemade butters
and sauces, wasabi, mustards and twists
on the classics); oysters, crustaceans and
shellfish on ice; and a big raw bar
selection. Said oysters may come
Rockefeller style, while the namesake
mollusc will be done as a clam coconut
ceviche; and served with linguine. There
will also be steak tartare; sizzling garlic
prawns; crab cakes; baked scampi
casino style; and a spanner crab gratin.
These bold entrées will be matched
by mains including a cheeseburger;
New York strip and porterhouse steaks;
and whole fish grilled in the charcoal
oven. “It’s a beautiful old building and
we’re very excited we got that space,”
says Pepperell.
Over the bridge, Josh and Julie
Niland will bring their scale-to-tail
approach to dining to the North Shore
with Petermen, a 60-seat restaurant and
bar in St Leonards. The name nods to the
husband-and-wife duo’s flagship venue
(where fishers were once known as
Petermen after their patron, Saint Peter).

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (CLAM BAR) & DOMINIC LONERAGAN (THE ROVER).

SYDNEY

News

PHOTOGRAPHY HUGH DAVIDSON (TOTTI’S) & STEVE WOODBURN (BABYLON).

For their fifth venture expect more
championing of local growers and
producers and for denizens of the deep
to get another starring role. This time
around, however, vegetables will play
a bigger role on the menu.
Back in the CBD, chef Jessi Singh has
opened Pinky Ji. Nodding to Singh’s
Punjabi roots the menu – which is divided
into snacks, raw, street, grill, wok, tandoor
and curry sections – is overseen by both
Singh and former Chin Chin head chef,
Johann Jay. Order a whole flounder with
curry butter noisette; or half lobster with
Sri Lankan coconut curry leaf sambal
from the grill; or try lamb chops with
smoked horseradish yoghurt or prawns
with green chilli coriander butter from
the tandoor, joined by garlic naan, biryani
and roti.
Finally in Surry Hills, The Rover has
unveiled the final phase of its re-do, with
a seafood-heroing British bistro opening
upstairs. Here, a trio of crustaceans may
come poached and served whole with
Marie Rose, wakame mayo or hot butter
sauce; a whole flathead may be chargrilled with clams and garlic; or perhaps
you’ll want to go all out and order caviar
served with potato chips. All will be
joined by a biodynamic wine list and
a thoughtful cocktail list.

Clockwise from above: a spread at Totti’s;
chef Matt Germanchis; wood-fired pumpkin
at Babylon Brisbane; and its dining room.

VICTORIA
Sydney hospitality juggernaut Merivale
will open its first venture in Victoria this
month, with the arrival of Totti’s at the
Lorne Hotel. The Great Ocean Road
outpost will draw upon the Sydney
formula of puffed bread and snacks to
match, with founding chef Mike Eggert
joined by local chef Matt Germanchis
(ex-Captain Moonlite). The usual Totti’s
hits will be complemented with plenty
of local seafood including King George
whiting, Southern rock lobsters, calamari
and mussels; alongside housemade
pasta and wood-fired specialties.
In Richmond, Orlo a modern Greek
restaurant by former Press Club and
Hellenic Republic chef Alex Xinis will
open in a heritage-listed former cordial
factory. Dishes from the open kitchen will
include stuffed sardines, raisins, tomato
and herbs to start; leek pie with sheep
curd and smoked egg yolk for mains; and
a restaurant-ready take on an Iced Vovo
dubbed the Riced Vovo with rice cream,
burnt marshmallow and raspberry.

There will also be a tasting-menu-only
mezzanine level, an underground
cocktail bar and vine-shaded courtyard.
Drinks-wise the list will pay homage to
its factory origins with shrubs and
cordials utilising leftover produce; while
local winemakers and small producers
from Greece will be on the wine list.

BRISBANE
A sprawling three-level, 120-seat
restaurant will continue the rejuvenation
of Eagle Street, with the opening of
Babylon Brisbane. Like its Sydney
predecessor, Babylon will draw on the
traditions of Levantine cuisine, and its
southeast Mediterranean influences.
The kitchen is centred on a custom
three-metre-long mangal (Turkish grill)
and two rotisseries. Here you’ll find
wood-fired pumpkin kebab with
coriander, lime, Aleppo chilli and
muhammara (a spiced red pepper paste
with walnuts, pomegranate molasses and
breadcrumbs); wood-grilled Fraser Coast
squid with yoghurt dill and lime; and
wood-fired Angus beef with chilli butter
and radish. Dramatic interiors include
terracotta bricks, red marble tabletops,
a green marble bar, and mahogany
chairs; while two outdoor bars will make
the most of the Brisbane sunshine.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

17

News

THE GRAPE MIGRATION

Living in Australia, the thriving local wine scene is hard to
ignore. Restaurant lists are an ode to home-grown producers,
and bottle-shops overflow with drops from almost every region
under our harsh golden sun. And as they should – Australia
claims some of the most diverse and prized producers on the
planet. Yet, across the Pacific, it’s an entirely different story.
The United States is undeniably lacking in quality Australian
wine, with imbibers favouring French, Spanish and Italian, as
well as Napa Valley drops. No surprise, really, considering the
expense of importing goods from a country that’s more than
15,000 kilometres away. This has resulted in mammoth
large-scale producers, such as Mollydooker and Yellow Tail,
dominating Australia’s portion of the market, ultimately
perpetuating America’s view of our wines as “undrinkable”.
There are a small number of passionate and knowledgeable
expats, however, who are striving to change that perception.
Mel Hansche and Jason Hoy moved to the States in 2014.
Hansche is a Gourmet Traveller alum and currently deputy
editor of America’s Food & Wine magazine. Her partner, Hoy,
is a wine connoisseur and hospitality veteran; he’s been in the
business since he was 17, and previously managed Sydney’s
renowned Ultimo Wine Centre, along with leading the city’s
Summer of Riesling festival for six years. His true ambition,
though, has always been to open a wine bar.
After two years living in New York City, the couple decided
to relocate to the small town of Easton, Pennsylvania, where
18

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

they dug deeper into their passion for the industry. The pair
opened a quaint Aussie-style café called Tucker Silk Mill, luring
locals and visitors with a playful menu of focaccia BLATs,
sausage rolls and vibrant veggie-filled quiches, and of course,
quality coffee. Now, the couple are building upon the success
of the venture, and bringing Hoy’s dream of opening a wine
bar to life.
Kabinett, which opened its doors late last year, is an eclectic
and quirky Australian-leaning wine bar, simultaneously nodding
to Hansche’s Germanic heritage with a solid selection of riesling.
The couple are “blowing American’s minds” with a Clonakilla
Shiraz Viognier, “a red that truly puts us on the world stage,” says
Hansche; there’s also a S.C. Pannell’s Nebbiolo, Australia’s
answer to Barolo; and one of the couple’s favourites – a Best’s
2021 Foudre Ferment Riesling, a stunning bottle that straddles
old world and new world techniques. Through their carefully
curated list, the pair hopes to bring a taste of Oz to Easton,
and educate their guests about Australia’s dynamic and
overwhelmingly expansive wine scene. “There’s a lot of wine
education needed for Americans, I’m not going to lie,” says Hoy.
“They love their Italian wine, they love Napa wine, but they’re
also a massive cocktail and spirit drinking country. In Australia,
wine and beer are first, cocktails second.”
Hansche agrees, and believes the key to that education
process is to disarm. “You have to disarm people to try
something new,” she says. “And we’re going to have to do
that with a lot of humour, a lot of grace, and a lot of fun.”
kabinettwinebar.com

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM ATKINSON.

Clockwise from left: Mel
Hansche and Jason Hoy
at Kabinett in Easton,
Pennsylvania; the wine bar
offers mostly Australian drops.

News

MELBOURNE’S BACK
Melbourne is a year-round destination for food but
at the end of March it will transform into a culinary
epicentre when the Melbourne Food and Wine
Festival returns to take over restaurants, gardens,
Queen Victoria Markets and more. Culinary doyenne
Alla Wolf-Tasker AM (pictured) will headline the
festival’s tentpole event, the World’s Longest Lunch,
bringing her pioneering regional dining from
Daylesford’s Lake House to Treasury Gardens. The
lunch kicks off a 10-day program of events, many of
which will sell out quickly, so be sure to check out
the program when it’s released in early February.
March 24 to April 2, mfwf.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION & GETTY IMAGES (TASTING AUSTRALIA),
CLINT PELOSO & CARMEN ZAMMIT (MELBOURNE FOOD & WINE).

The Essential Ingredient has opened a huge new store in Sydney’s
Crows Nest. It’s packed with specialty ingredients, professional
cookware and culinary books. There’s also a professional test kitchen
where you’ll often find staff road-testing recipes and ingredients
for customers to try in situ. essentialingredient.com.au

THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BITE
South Australia is also riding the current food festival wave,
once again hosting Tasting Australia. This year's extravaganza
welcomes an all-star lineup of chefs including Norway’s Heidi
Bjerkan and the United Kingdom’s James Lowe and Gill Meller,
alongside local heroes Karen Martini, Darren Robertson (pictured)
and Justin James, the chef behind Adelaide’s Restaurant Botanic.
The event, which will run over 10 days and two weekends, will
see more than 150 events spread across all 12 regions of South
Australia; from Adelaide to Flinders Ranges and beyond.
April 28 to May 7, tastingaustralia.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

19

News

How did you get into cooking? I can honestly say the food
scene in Sydney got me into cooking. I remember coming here
from Hong Kong to study at university and falling in love with the
eclectic food culture here instead. Everything about the Australian
food scene was so exciting that I decided I wanted to become
a professional chef.
Following the closure of Hartsyard, you’ll be opening a new
venture in the Old Clare Hotel in Sydney this year. What can
you tell us about it? Our plan is to build the whole menu around
the coastline of Australia. The menu will be heavily seafood
focused with lots of ingredients you wouldn’t normally see in
restaurants, plus a minimal waste approach. There’s talk of the
Hartsyard fish burger making an appearance in the new space,
as well as our famous grilled marron with bisque sauce. So,
watch this space.
This is our Lunar New Year issue. Do you have any fond
memories of spending time with family over the Lunar New
Year? Absolutely! My family always celebrated together when
I was still living in Hong Kong. It’s the biggest celebration of the
year in our culture. I remember there are a few markets in Hong
Kong that I would visit with my family in preparation for the Lunar
New Year. They’re similar to Christmas markets all over the
world, and are decorated in such a fun and festive way. They
sell all sorts of things; from flowers and plants to food and
general goods. It’s always so much fun to explore and try
different things there.
Do you have any specific or cherished food memories of Lunar
New Year? There’s a staple dish called treasure pot or poon choy
in Chinese. It’s basically a traditional one-pot dish, composed of
premium ingredients including abalone, sea cucumber, prawns,
roasted duck, chicken, black moss, vegetables all in a rich broth.
It’s believed to bring abundance and prosperity to those who
consume it. All the ingredients are usually pre-organised and
placed nicely in the pot so all you need to do is cook it. Lunar
New Year is usually very cold where I come from so this steamy
dish is perfect to celebrate with a bigger family as it requires
minimal work and cooking time, so you get to really spend
time with your family.
The Old Clare Hotel, theoldclarehotel.com.au

20

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Local artisanal chocolatier Koko Black
will be joining in the Lunar New Year
celebrations this year. All chocolates
are handmade using natural
ingredients, with flavours inspired
by the bright traditions of Lunar
New Year fireworks. You can gift lush
praline boxes or individual chocolates
with flavours including mandarin
and yuzu; matcha, chilli and mango;
or caramelised coconut; all of
which include a complimentary red
envelope to mark the occasion.
From $24.90, kokoblack.com

Globally loved Japanese bakery Le Tao has
sold more than 20 million desserts, and now
Melbourne CBD is home to its first Australian
store. Line up to get the signature fromage
double cheesecake, which uses Hokkaido cream,
Italian mascarpone and Australian cream cheese
for a feather-light texture and memorable taste.
letaoaustralia.com

ADDITIONAL REPORTING CHARLOTTE WISHART (ON THE PASS).

O N T H E PA S S

with DOROTHY LEE, THE OLD CLARE

GOOD LUCK CHARM

News

Tokyo remains at the top of Australians’ culinary
bucket list. With thousands of restaurants and limited
time, a gourmet tour is a surefire way to make the most
of the city. Travel Associates’ Tokyo Luxury and Gourmet
Adventures takes in the best of the best across five
nights with a local guide, insider food experiences
and a lush hotel. You’ll dine at izakayas and yakitori
restaurants; say kanpai at the bars of Golden Gai; spend
a morning at Tsukiji Fish Market; learn the art of a tea
ceremony and much more. Select travel dates from
May to August, from $3059 per person for five nights.
travelassociates.com

THREE TO TRY

HELLO, JAPAN

L AT E S U M M E R P O P - U P S

1

Morgan’s Sorrento’s Fiesta en La Playa
Chef Paul Wilson will head to the Mornington
Peninsula for this Mexi-Cali pop-up, running until
mid-March. Nixtamal (fermented corn) tortillas will be
topped with LA-style fried fish with chipotle adobo and
lime crema; or lamb barbacoa with tamarind chilli mole.
There will also be a taco inspired by Wilson’s late
friend Anthony Bourdain, with bone marrow,
slow-cooked tongue and cheek and salsa verde.
morganssorrento.com.au

2

Rancho Seltzo
House Made Hospitality (the team behind Hinchcliff
House) has made its debut splash into Bondi with
this bright resort-inspired restaurant and bar. Kick back
with prawn rolls and kingfish ceviche; joined by seltzers
on tap and rum-driven cocktails. Depending on how the
concept fairs (we’re guessing well given its beachside
location) Rancho Seltzo may become a permanent fixture
of Campbell Parade. ranchobondibeach.com

3

Josie’s Country Residency at Essen
This restaurant takeover series curated by
Brisbane’s John Speranza (ex-Malt Dining) and
Amy Harker will take up residency in Stanthorpe until
March 5. Expect compelling ingredients infused into
Italian and Mexican staples, be it garden tostada,
sunflower queso and egg; or shoyu and miso tiramisu
with wattleseed and rhubarb. itsjosies.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE WOODBURN (RANCHO SELTZO).

2

1

Pack man
As everybody gets back into the travelling
groove, there’s sure to have been a time
where you’ve totally over-packed, or
underestimated what you’ll need. Antler’s
new online packing tool helps take some of
the guesswork out of loading up your
luggage: simply enter your destination, length
of stay and activities, and it will come up with
a weather advised packing guide for you.
Pack it up and bon voyage. antler.com.au

3
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

21

News

Clockwise from above: snacks at
Hamlet; Hamlet's alfresco dining;
barista at work.

22

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Hobart-based hospitality outfit Hamlet is truly enterprising
in what they do: along with delivering an A-grade café
experience, Hamlet tackles two of Hobart’s biggest social
issues. “There’s been a skills shortage in Tasmania for the
tourism and hospitality industry going on for 10 or more
years,” says founder and CEO Emily Briffa. “We’re constantly
looking for ways to provide training to people who face
significant barriers to employment.” Those include people
who are long-term unemployed; people with low levels of
literacy or language, who might come from migrant or
refugee backgrounds; and those who identify as living
with a disability. “By training people in front of house, customer
service, kitchen skills, Hamlet helps to improve their chances
of finding work by building these industry-specific skills,”
says Briffa. And while the training is in hospitality – like any
one that’s worked in the industry can attest – the skills can
be applied to all facets of life.”
While the social impact element is important, the kitchen
ensures it maintains a high standard when it comes to putting
out excellent food. “We’ve got some incredible chefs that
work here like Cameron Perry who’s a former fine-dining chef
who worked at Garagistes and in London,” says Briffa. He’s
joined by Peter Cooksley who was the head chef at Embla
before working at the now shuttered Franklin in Hobart.
And like any other top kitchen in Tassie, there’s a strong
emphasis on Tasmanian produce and building good
relationships with farmers.
This year marks the outfit's seventh year and promises to
be one of growth. “In 2023 we’re going to expand – we’ve
secured some additional space in the building where we can
launch our commercial kitchen.” Currently the program is
so in-demand, there’s a six- to 12-month waiting list. This
expansion will mean even more people can come through
the program. “One of the things that is quite beautiful about
providing training in the hospitality industry is that it forces
people to engage,” says Briffa. “Hospitality by definition
creates that warmth and engagement. It builds confidence,
which is amazing to see.” hamlet.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY ROSIE HASTIE.

SOCIAL SKILLS

TASTING
AUSTRALIA
AIRLINES
JOURNEY TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA’S
MOST DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS.
MORNING GLORY
This neat little coffee machine expands your
at-home barista abilities one pod at a time.
Combining coffee and technology, Morning is
a new machine designed by Singapore-based
coffee connoisseurs Leon Foo and Bowen
Chiou. The Morning Machine allows you to
customise the temperature and water pressure
of your coffee as you brew, while still using a
pod system. And for those who prefer a simpler
approach? There’s a pre-programmed classic
setting that’s just the press of a button away.
drinkmorning.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY ROSIE HASTIE

JUST THE TONIC

KANGAROO ISLAND: 6 MAY 2023

Post-silly season, a fruit and herb-powered tincture
feels more necessary than ever. Jiva Tonic is the new
range of small but punch-packing juices that don’t
require you to go out and buy a hefty juicer. The
range includes a lemon and apple cider vinegar
number that will turn the keys in any engine; or
a coconut and black pepper one that will leave you
feeling reset and refreshed. $4.99, harrisfarm.com.au

BOARD NOW
TASTINGAUSTRALIA.COM.AU

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

23

The genius of Maurice O’Shea.
Captured by Max Dupain.
Continued by Mount Pleasant.

Mount Pleasant. Created by a legend.
OVER 100 YEARS OF WINEMAKING

visit www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

Five of a kind

Egg noodles
From simple stir-fries to lavish celebration dishes,
there’s no limit to what you can do with the humble
egg noodle. These five deliver both bounce and bite.

5
I

GT

VOUR

TE

TEAM

FA

1

5. MC YEE NOODLES
With a higher alkaline level
(thanks to bicarbonate of
soda) these golden
noodles have excellent
bite to them. The noodles
are aged and chilled, while
the corn starch prevents
them from sticking
together when cooked.
$2.80 for 375gm,
thaikee.com.au

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

3

4

1. DOUBLE MERINOS
Ready to be dressed
simply or served in
fragrant herbal broth,
these noodles are
versatile and hardy. If
par-boiling these noodles
before stir-frying, always
rinse with cold water to
prevent overcooking.
$3.89 for 375gm,
harrisfarm.com.au
2. GOURMET ALLEY
These egg noodles are
steamed then oven-dried
to make them a useful
pantry staple. The
dense noodle nests
cook quickly and have
a fine, stringy texture,
that makes them ideal
for Hong Kong-style
chow mein.
$5.40 for 454gm,
thaikee.com.au

2

3

4. JANG’S NOODLES
As one of the suppliers
for Lucky Kwong and
China Doll, this family-run
business ensures all their
noodles – which are
conveniently available in
up to 1 kg bags – are top
quality. The flatter-style
egg noodles are made in
Sydney’s Campsie, and
have a firm texture.
$2.65 for 375gm,
thaikee.com.au

3. KAM FU FOODS
Perfect to serve dry or
in soups, these
Australian-made noodles
are used by restaurants
across Australia, and
are also available in
most supermarkets.
Each strand has
good elasticity.
$3.69 for 500gm,
harrisfarm.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

25

A

C
QUI K W

D WIT
H

OR

DOUGLAS
L IM
Malaysia’s king of comedy
is destined for Melbourne
in March. But first he checks
in with GT to talk touring,
good food and Lunar New Year.

The new year has a lot to be excited about. I’m
really excited about performing at the Melbourne
International Comedy Festival again after a three
year break. I have a few TV series and film
projects to shoot in Malaysia. I’m also hoping
to do a Malaysian stand-up comedy tour – it’s
been a while since I’ve done that with the
pandemic and all.
In Malaysia we refer to Lunar New Year as the
Chinese New Year. It’s a really big festival that
literally overwhelms your senses. You see lots
of decorations in homes and malls, you hear
Chinese New Year songs and firecrackers, you
see the performances such as the lion and dragon
dance, you taste special dishes like yee sang and
poon choi and you feel the connection with family
when you go home for reunion dinner.

Memories

You see the performances such as the
lion and dragon dance, you taste
dishes like yee sang and poon choi and
feel the connection with family.

I think the fastest way to acclimatise to a new city
and new audience would be to reach out to the
locals. Most are friendly enough to show you
around if you are nice and respectful to them.
Then over a meal or drinks, I would just ask
questions about them and the city.

I can’t speak for all Malaysians but I can say that
we are very passionate about food. So we do our
research. Even before I arrived for the Melbourne
International Comedy Festival last time, I already
knew what I wanted to eat within a one-kilometre
radius. Saying that, I can not cook. I’ve tried and
failed so I'm definitely a dine out guy.
Life as a touring comedian can be extravagant at
times. Two instances come to mind. The first was
when I was in New York and the producer took
me to the steakhouse by Salt Bae – the annoying
chef [Nusret Gökçe] who crashed the recent 2022
FIFA World Cup celebrations. That was a really
expensive dinner but luckily I didn't pay for it.
The second was at Victoria Market in Melbourne.
I met up with some old school friends and we saw
a stall selling sugar cane juice. It cost $6! That is
an insane price for Malaysians. We get a giant
packet of sugar cane for less than a dollar.

When I’m on the road I always try to keep up
with the news that’s going on at home. Malaysia
has so much happening every day that we can
use for material.
The city I am most likely to be recognised in is
Kuala Lumpur. I started my entertainment career
in Kuala Lumpur in 1998 and so most people in KL
would have seen me either on stage, TV, film or
watched my online stuff.
I’m coming to Melbourne in March and already
have a must-do list. Roule Galette for crêpes,
I Love Pho for pho (obviously) and Gaylord Indian
Restaurant for possibly the best butter chicken
I’ve tasted. 
Melbourne International Comedy Festival is held from 29
March to 23 April 2023. Visit comedyfestival.com.au

The life of a touring comedian can also be very
humbling. My touring experiences have usually
been good. However, there was this one show
I did in Singapore where I didn't do well and the
emcee had to save me. The organiser then
expressed his dissatisfaction and I took all that
shame and rejection and boarded the midnight
bus heading back to Malaysia. It was the loneliest
and most depressing six-hour bus ride home.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

27

E
H
T

CH
KIT

EN GARD
EN
ER

Pineapples
This exotic tropical plant only yields a single fruit but its
sweetness is worth the effort, writes SIMON RICKARD.

ILLUSTRATION ADOBE STOCK IMAGES & GETTY IMAGES.

N

o fruit is more symbolic of tropical exoticism than the
pineapple. Composer Scott Joplin wrote his famous Pine Apple
Rag in 1908. In the 1940s, singer Carmen Miranda swung her
hips to a samba beat with a pineapple peeking out of her fruity
headpiece. Canned pineapple from Hawaii was fetishised in 1950s
America. It was added to every conceivable recipe including, most
contentiously, pizza. When this craze made its way to Australia not long
thereafter, Queensland’s pineapple industry thrived, embodied by the
iconic Big Pineapple erected in 1971.
Yet this bizarre fruit’s story begins much earlier than the 20th
century. The pineapple belongs to the South American bromeliad family.
Its fruits develop from a cluster of small violet flowers, each giving rise
to an individual fleshy berry, which grow tightly together to form what
botanists refer to as a “multiple fruit”. In the wild, the flowers are

Grow your own

What nicer way to invoke
the tropical sun and
swaying palm trees, than
to grow your own
pineapple at home.

Simon is a
professional
gardener,
author and
baroque
bassoonist.
@simon_rickard

pollinated by hummingbirds, giving rise to
pineapples filled with small brown seeds. In
places where there are no hummingbirds to
pollinate them, pineapple fruits are seed free.
At one stage there was a law banning the
importation of hummingbirds to Hawaii from
mainland USA, lest they mar the Hawaiian
pineapple crop.
Its English name derives from the old term for
a pine cone – a “pine apple”, due to the fruit’s pine
cone-like appearance. When the pineapple made its
debut in Europe at the end of the 15th century, it
caused a sensation. The Dutch were the first
Europeans to cultivate this tropical plant in the
16th century. This was difficult in the days before
the technology for construction glasshouses existed,
and enjoying pineapple remained the preserve of
the rich. In 1677, King Charles II had his portrait
painted being presented with a pineapple by the
royal gardener, John Rose.
In the 18th century, wealthy Britons began
to cultivate them in “pineapple stoves” – special
glasshouses designed for that purpose. Pineapple
stoves were sunk into the ground, with a masonry
trench around them. The trench was filled with

animal manure, to keep the pineapples warm as
it decomposed.
The pineapple became a symbol of wealth and
hospitality in Georgian Britain. Its image can be
seen carved in stone as finials on the gates of
stately homes, none more impressive than the
1761 Dunmore Pineapple in Scotland, an eight
metre-high stone pineapple folly.
Pineapples were taken by European colonisers
around the tropics. The Spanish introduced them
to Hawaii in the 18th century, and the Philippines,
one of the top pineapple producers today. Pineapple
is used to make vinegar in the Philippines, as well
as nata de piña, a gelatinous drink made from
fermented pineapple. A strong, light fibre is
obtained from pineapple’s long, sword shaped
leaves. This is woven into sheer piña cloth, to make
the Philippines’ cool, elegant national dress.
Growing pineapples is simple if you live in
a frost-free climate. Grow the plants in a big pot
filled with potting mix, or in well-drained soil in
the open garden. The plants require full sun and
ample moisture. Select one of the new, spineless
cultivars such as “F180”, as the older varieties are
brutally spiny. Ornamental cultivars are available,
with beautifully striped and coloured foliage, too.
You would probably only grow your own
pineapples for educational purposes, since the
plants take a year or two before they are big enough
to flower. Fruits take six months to ripen on the
plant, and each plant only produces a single fruit
before it dies. But what nicer way to invoke the
tropical sun and swaying palm trees, than to grow
your own pineapple at home. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

29

BENJAMIN
LAW
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals
helping to grow a stronger community.
This month, we meet writer and presenter,
Benjamin Law.

With his clear, courageous,
singular – and witty –
discourse, I believe
Benjamin Law is one of
the most important voices
of our generation. Benjamin’s
powerful advocacy for
minority groups, and generous and compelling
sharing of his Australian-Chinese heritage offers
immense support and comfort to many in our
society. He is also an excellent role model for
the queer community, and someone I have
long admired.

S

o many chapters of the Benjamin Law story
have already been told – in his own razor-sharp
words, no less. This one begins in an ABC
Radio National studio in 2019 when the
multidisciplinary writer and his Stop Everything! co-host
Beverley Wang recorded a chat with Australian Survivor
host Jonathan LaPaglia. Law and Wang were expecting
an insider’s scoop on a pop culture sensation.
Meanwhile, LaPaglia turned up to challenge the reality
show’s lack of diversity.

WORDS ANNA McCOOE (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG
(INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL FRANCISCO ROBLES.

Almost three years later Law is hitting
“When the biggest commercial employer of
airwaves as an Australian Survivor contestant. He
journalists in the country is throwing kids and
mostly stepped up as a fan of the show and as “a
teenagers under the bus, it was illustrative of
hilarious way to see out his 30s”. As a Cantonese
how toxic Australian media can be,” he adds.
Australian, a queer Australian and a self-described
“Optimistically though, not getting the outcome
scrawny Australian, he is also there to represent.
they lobbied for speaks to a sunsetting of the
But this is not the first time Law has expanded
Murdoch influence in this country.”
the culture by writing himself into it. Take for
This year we can expect Law’s platform to
example The Family Law, his 2010 memoir turned
grow. First with Survivor and then with Wellmania,
SBS comedy series about growing up “Bogan
the Netflix show he will release with Celeste
Asian” on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast in the
Barber in March. His expanding spotlight might
1990s. The memoir is heavy on hijinks but also
come with a harsher media glare and yet Law will
addresses racism, mortality and his parents’
continue to advocate for LGBTQIA+ youth. On
divorce. He says writing is his way of cleaning up
February 5, he is competing in the two-kilometre
messes. “It’s making sense of something, which
Cole Classic ocean swim, to raise money for the
might not make sense from the outset.”
Minus 18 charity, which has been targeted by
Then there were more books: Gaysia (2012)
neo-Nazis.
and Growing Up Queer in Australia (2019). Plus,
Viewers of The Family Law or the ABC’s
his first playwriting foray, Torch the Place for
Waltzing the Dragon, a “sweet and sour” look at
Melbourne Theatre Company
the current China-Australia
capturing Chinese Australian
Writing for me is the relationship, know Law gets his
family life. Each work serves up
openness from his mother,
act of cleaning up
an under-represented perspective
Jenny Phang.
a
mess.
It’s
making
with a spoonful of hilarious
“My mum’s boundaries, lie
sweetness. “If you’re writing
somewhere west of wrong town,”
sense of something,
or advocating for minorities,
which might not make he says. “She is not capable of
people don’t want to see an
shame or avoiding discussion.
sense
from
the
outset.
important story or important
I think I’ve carried that with
issue. But if you can make them
me as well. Why should it be
laugh, that’s usually a good way to get the message
a shameful thing to be Chinese Australian? Or
out,” he says. “And I just find a lot of things
why should you be ashamed to be gay and more
funny. Spotlighting the stuff that’s outrageously
broadly queer? If I haven’t done anything wrong,
absurd, or ridiculous or hilarious, in moments of
why should I feel shame?” The Family Law viewers
darkness, is an important part of moving forward.”
will also know the Cantonese restaurant Law’s
But Law can also play it straight. In 2017 the
father ran on the monocultural Sunshine Coast
writer penned his Quarterly Essay, Moral Panic 101:
back in the 1990s “I guess the moral of the story
Equality, Acceptance and the Safe Schools Scandal,
is, if you don’t get enough exposure to your
in defence of the Safe Schools program. The
heritage and culture, you can bring it to the
program, which was introduced to improve
community yourself,” says Law. So far, Law hasn’t
conditions for LGBTQIA+ young people at school,
written a Lunar New Year episode of The Family
was politicised during the last federal election.
Law. If he were to write it, the scene would be set
“The moral panic that adults could make children
with lion dancers, lucky red packets, and piles of
gay or trans was bizarre. Equipping schools to
food. “It’s family, reunion and just eating until
protect some of the most vulnerable students
you fall into a medically induced food coma.”
on campus should be a no brainer,” he explains.
He hints that he might have a Lunar New Year
The essay also addressed the conservative
project in the works. When it drops, we can
media, which, to Law’s point, used vulnerable kids
expect diversity and advocacy to be wrapped
and teens to lobby for a Coalition win – and failed.
in entertainment. And hilarity to ensue. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

31

Moonhouse

p

34

This month, we visit a South Australian
seafood diner, a Cantonese joint in
Melbourne, a Perth bar, and the revamped
Icebergs Dining Room and Bar.

32

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY JANA LANGHORST.

Dining out

UI

CK LOO
K

Q

Review

Shop 5/ 11 Mount Barker
Rd, Stirling SA
anglerstirling.com.au
CHEF
Sam Prance-Smith
OPENING HOURS
Lunch and dinner
Wed-Sun
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.

STINA

Stirling,
SA

AN G L E R
This upmarket fish and chip joint impresses with
top-notch sustainable seafood, writes KATIE SPAIN.

PHOTOGRAPHY MEAGHAN COLES.

A

Clockwise from left: Angler’s Port
Lincoln mussels; and wood-fired
scallops.

N

TH

T

IO

E

DE

VERDICT
Ethically sourced
seafood in a wholesome
community setting.

dry ageing cabinet strung with
snapper, salmon and kingfish is
the first sign that this is no
ordinary fish and chip haunt. It was
never meant to be. When chef and
co-founder Sam Prance-Smith and his
aunt Mandy Prance (chair of
community-supported fishery Fair Fish
SA) opened Angler in January 2020,
the focus was always going to be on
top-notch, sustainably sourced
seafood. Prance-Smith grew up in the
Adelaide Hills town of Stirling and hit
the tools at the likes of Heston
Blumenthal’s Fat Duck restaurant in
England, South Australia’s Star of
Greece, and Melbourne’s Cutler & Co,
before returning to his hometown to
open Angler (in what was a former
butcher shop) in 2020. After extensive
renovations, he upped the ante in July
2022 with a Trust the Chef menu
rivalling any fine dining experience
in the country.

Make no mistake, Angler is still an
upmarket fish and chip joint; 14 seats
cater for casual patrons while 16 are
devoted to a menu of up to eight
courses. The ethical fisher-to-consumer
Fair Fish approach means dishes
change regularly. “It is structured but
sporadic,” says Prance-Smith.
“Some nights, I might only have
four of one thing so two tables will get
different dishes.”
On the page it potentially sounds
confusing, but in full-swing it works
beautifully. Prance-Smith did most of
the laborious fit-out himself. He and his
apprentice work in full view; whether
deftly filleting fish or searing the
Polacco family’s hand-dived, Kangaroo
Island scallops over a large wood-fire
grill. It’s hyper-local (except for salmon
sourced from New Zealand due to the
producer’s exceptional sustainability
practices); from fisherman Mike Fooks’
King George whiting and yellow eye

sea mullet, to Kyri Toumazos-caught
Southern rock lobster.
Attention to detail, tone and flavour
is consistent. A delicate prawn cocktail
cracker kicks things off, followed by 100
per cent carbon neutral Leeuwin Coast
Akoya oysters and seaweed malt
vinegar and nori powder-topped Smoky
Bay Oysters. Kingfish wing with native
tamarind sauce pops with sweet and
sour flavours, while Coorong mullet in
earthy macadamia sauce sits alongside
a coffee roasted potato (dredged in
spent coffee grounds and baked at 156
degrees for 12 hours). Dessert comes in
the form of a classic pineapple fritter
embraced in Heston Blumenthal’s
iconic batter (a nod to Prance-Smith’s
past), smoked milk jam, white chocolate
and brown butter crumb with a gentle
sprinkling of icing sugar. In the glass,
the small-producer-focused wine, gin
and beer list changes fortnightly, or
BYO is welcome for a $25 corkage fee.
You can’t escape neighbourhood
vibes in an Adelaide Hills town like this.
Regulars are locals. After popping in for
sashimi every second day, local potter
Mandy Walker now makes Angler’s
delightful dishes, mussel-shaped bowls
and custom oyster plates. “She’s
become part of the family,” says Prance.
Pop in often enough and chances are,
you will too. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

33

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XO Pipi, crispy egg noodles and
garlic shoots at Moonhouse.
Right: the bar. Below right:
prawn toast.

282 Carlisle Street,
Balaclava, Vic
moonhouse.com.au
OPENING HOURS
Lunch Fri-Sun
Dinner Daily
CHEFS
Anthony Choi
and Scott Lord

E

VERDICT
A Cantonese-French
bistro mash-up as fun
as it sounds.

NEWCOM

ER

TH

BOOKINGS
Recommended.

Balaclava,
Vic

M OO N H O U S E
Commune’s newcomer delivers good times and plenty
of Aussie-Cantonese soul, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

M

elbourne’s Commune Group
has assembled quite the
stable of restaurants in the
last decade. Kicking off with good
time, big flavoured, raucous panAsian joints with names like Tokyo
Tina or Hanoi Hannah, where cocktails
were as important to the mix as the
food, Commune’s restaurants have
become increasingly confident and
ambitious. With its later restaurants
New Quarter and Firebird, culinary
authenticity was still not the point
and cocktails remain essential to the
mix but the ideas are more focused,
the cooking sharper, the wine lists
more adventurous.
This is certainly the case with
Moonhouse, its latest venture
installed in the gorgeous, curvaceous
art deco building in Balaclava
formerly home to Ilona Staller.
Billing itself a restaurant that
“honours traditional Cantonese soul”,
Moonhouse probably more accurately
honours Aussie-Cantonese soul and

34

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

adds a touch of French bistro fusion
in terms of décor and plating to
create a thoroughly charming hybrid
with a solid menu that occasionally
spikes into greatness.
Take the riff on steak tartare, for
example, that sees the hand-chopped
beef mixed with Cantonese vinegar,
Sichuan spice added to the more
traditional caper/egg yolk/chive mix.
Served with deep-fried wonton
crisps, it’s a flavour bomb of a dish,
perhaps (like a good portion of the
Moonhouse menu) a little too reliant
on salt, but a cracking way to start
a meal.
Another highlight is a superb
steamed baby snapper, butterflied
and then doused in a deft ginger and
soy broth populated with lazily
drifting glass noodles. Topped with
sesame oil-doused spring onions, it’s
a comforting and gorgeously
balanced dish.
Also worth considering are the
refreshing pickled vegetables teamed

with swiftly sautéed fungus, and
moreish “economy noodles”, wokked
flat rice noodles tossed with whatever
protein is extra in the kitchen that
night (the beef version sung). Diced
tiger prawn meat tossed with chilli
and served in its shell topped with
a crumb flavoured with fried anchovies
and garlic flakes hit the right notes
too, as did an almond sponge
drenched in ginger syrup and teamed
with lemon curd and whipped cream.
Efficient service leans witty
without being annoying and, not
surprisingly for Commune, foodfriendly, on-theme cocktails kicked
it, including a Black Spritz that,
astonishingly successfully, united
amaro, black vinegar, vermouth,
lemon and prosecco. A two-page
wine list ably navigates trends and
the menu’s punchy flavours.
Moonhouse may not be one for
the Cantonese purists but it pulls
together a good time from many
different elements. More please. 

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

PRICE $$

UI

CK LOO
K

Q

Review

399 Oxford St,
Mount Hawthorn, WA
casa-casa-casa.com
CHEF Paul Bentley
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Tue-Sat,
Fri-Sat Lunch
PRICE GUIDE: $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.

E

Clockwise from left:
the bar at Casa; vongole
spaghetti; and tiramasu with
espresso.

WINE B
AR

TH

VERDICT
House wins.

Mount
Hawthorn,
WA

CASA
This neighbourhood bar find its groove with great
classics and service, writes MAX VEENHUYZEN.

P

erth loves a wine bar. Perth
also loves a new opening. So it
makes sense that when a new
wine bar arrives in P-Town, locals get
excited. That was certainly the case
when Casa debuted in late 2021.
The combination of a timeless
mid-modern aesthetic, a deep
commitment to organically made wine
and a no-bookings policy made it the
talk of the town and guests flocked
here en masse. It didn’t hurt, of
course, that It-chef Paul Bentley was
on the pans.
Bentley, a kitchen veteran who’s
also behind the menus at Si Paradiso
and El Grotto, has no shortage of
good food ideas. He thinks spongy
focaccia and the Mayan pumpkin
seed dip sikil pak belong together.
(They do). He thinks, like the
Bordelaise do, that spicy pork
sausages go great guns with raw
oysters. And he thinks grilled octopus

draped with lardo is an excellent way
to dress up toast. Just one thing:
when Casa opened, it felt like Bentley
had crammed many of these ideas
(and dishes) on the carte. In the early
days, navigating Casa’s menu could
overwhelm a diner. I can only imagine
how hectic service might have been
for the kitchen during Casa’s hot-newthing era.
But a year and a half on – and
with Casa released from its duties as
the hyped new opening – the bar has
found its groove and feels more like
the neighbourhood spot its owners
envisaged. We can now book tables:
essential for Casa’s vigorous dinner
club program that hosts chefs from
around Australia. New menus are
another win and give Bentley ample
opportunities to realise the ideas
whizzing through his brain.
New Friday and Saturday lunches,
for instance, are a safe space for chef

to explore his deepest room service
food fantasies. While the club
sandwich feels the most Hotel Bel-Air,
the menu’s MVP is the burger: a puck
of juicy, rare-grilled chuck and
short-rib beef topped with Comté and
a beef fat remoulade, all cradled in
a milk bun. It’s crazy delicious and
a reminder that “gourmet burger”
doesn’t have to be a swear word.
The bucatini primavera feels like the
sort of glam lunch fashionistas might
pick at during the spring-summer
edition of Milan Fashion Week.
Themed monthly prix fixe menus
(a reasonable $68) have tended to
lean French and included good house
charcuterie and an elegant tartare
that showcases the steak rather than
the sauce. Passionfruit soufflés
whisked and baked à la minute speak
to a commitment to doing things the
right way, same goes for a floor team
delivering measured, engaged
service. At a time when the
newfangled is all the rage, isn’t it
nice to revisit the classics? 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

35

Q

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1 Notts Ave,
Bondi Beach, NSW
idrb.com
CHEF Alex Prichard
OPENING HOURS
Lunch and dinner
Wed-Sun
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS Essential.
VERDICT None of the
lustre has been lost.

Review

H

EFRE
E R
S
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T

The view from Icebergs
Dining Room and Bar.
Right: whole Kiama lobster
served with pasta, vin
jaune and chives.
Opposite: spaghetti,
Goolwa pipis, vongole
and bottarga.

Bondi
Beach,
NSW

ICEBERGS
A Sydney icon returns, not so much reinvented as
revitalised and primed for decades more to come,
writes MATTY HIRSCH.

PHOTOGRAPHY JASON LOUCAS.

W

hat may or may not shock
you is how similar it looks
and feels. The cerulean,
turquoise and teal tones that dominate
the long, narrow space. The waitstaff’s
white dinner jackets and billowy
dresses. The steep wine mark-ups. The
relentless pace and sizzle of the place.
Fresh from a seven-month facelift,
Icebergs Dining Room and Bar remains
unmistakably Icebergs.
You can still kick back in a wicker
chair overlooking the Pacific, call for
a plate of those marvellous flash-fried
gamberetti with aïoli and chase it with
a No. 8 – the signature bracer of vodka,
Campari and ruby red grapefruit juice
that’s been the linchpin of the cocktail
list. And it all still comes with a pinchme sense of privilege you’re unlikely to
feel at any other spot in town.

So, what’s new? An upsized
kitchen, for starters, along with
more discreet service stations and
a temperature-controlled cellar in
the restaurant. From the diner’s
perspective, the critical updates made
by owner Maurice Terzini and Romebased architects Lazzarini Pickering are
the new seafood counter in the centre
of the action, the conversion of the
terrace to an enclosed private dining
room with 50 seats and subtle light
sconces that cast enchanting shadows
across the perforated ceiling.
As for the food, the mandate – in
Terzini’s words – has always been
flavours his mamma would recognise,
but dishes she would never cook.
Head chef Alex Prichard colours more
outside the Italian-ish lines than many
of his predecessors. He accents

a winning coral trout crudo with wax
leaf and green ants, dresses his
Caprese salad in French savagnin
vinegar and complements his crema
meringata with strawberry gum granita.
There’s hardly anything “cucina
vera” about an entrée of koshihikari
rice risotto stirred through XO sauce
and finished with raw spot prawns, but
it is excellent. Grass-fed O’Connor beef
tartare, by contrast, could stand to be
more assertively seasoned and
propped up by crisper rye crackers, but
the quality of meat is unquestionable.
When it comes to mains, the surest
bet is often the most straightforward.
House-made pasta shells tossed in
a ragù of quail, guinea fowl and amaro
proves something of a head-scratcher,
surprisingly light on impact. A gently
charred coral trout fillet is more like it,
napped in a scene-stealing sweet and
grassy oregano butter. Be sure to
throw in the insalata Terzini, featuring
leaves from Moonacres farm painted in
a piercing lemon dressing; it continues
to be the side salad against which all
others in the city should be judged.
With real estate like this, success
is all but guaranteed. Yet, Icebergs’
20-year run owes as much to its tireless
endorsement of blockbuster Australian
produce and to Terzini’s inspired vision.
That vision – equal parts punk and high
fashion, Bondi and Abruzzo, house
music and opera – has evolved, but its
fundamental respect for the site and
magic of hospitality hasn’t wavered.
The more things change, they say,
the more they stay the same. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

37

Wine club
A new Byron Bay bar, tasting Tasmania,
a Barossa winemaker and top drops to try.

Moonlight,
NSW

p

42

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

39

ON TREND
Dive head first into the world
of biodynamics at Byron Bay’s
hibachi grill and wine bar,
Moonlight. Here, sommelier
Sean Duncan has created
a niche wine list to champion
biodynamic wine. Expect drops
by the likes of Hunter Valley’s
Krinklewood, South Australia’s
Yangarra, and Western
Australia’s Cullen Wines.
moonlightbar.com.au

Plan ahead
Tasmania’s Southern Open
Vineyards Weekend will take
place in March, combining warm
Tassie hospitality with a series
of one-off events, dinners and
tastings on private properties.
It’s a great chance to meet wine
producers from Derwent Valley,
Coal River Valley, Huon Valley and
D’Entrecasteaux Channel, many
of whom don’t have cellar doors.
3-5 March, openvineyards.wine

DRINKS NEWS
TOP DROPS, NEW OPENINGS, AND INSIDE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS

HIGH TEA
SPIRIT OF PLACE
While sipping from the Yarra isn’t
advised, this is as close as you’ll
want to get. Melbourne CBD gin
distillery Little Lon Distilling Co has
launched Yarra Strength Navy Gin,
a spirit that speaks of the Yarra/
Birrarung River. In 2019, owner
Brad Wilson was awarded City of
Melbourne’s small business and
social enterprise grants to help fund
his vision to make a gin of place. He
and distiller Taylor Spelt did so using
botanicals from the river’s edge and
proofed with water from the Yarra.
The release is limited to 500 bottles.
$175 for 500ml,
littlelondistillingco.com
40

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

There’s something special
happening at The Nest Creative
Space in Waterloo, Sydney.
In an intimate tea salon, Cara
Chen provides escapism in the
form of a traditional Chinese
gongfu tea ceremony. Under
her gentle guidance, a 21-step
process unfolds. Chen shares
Wu Wei wisdom as she prepares
three specialist high altitude
teas. In a nutshell, it’s all
about mindfulness and the
art of embracing flow.
altitudetea.com.au

Drinks news

NOLO MUST-TRY

The no and low alcohol landscape just keeps getting
better. The An-marabula (Native Peach) Bellini is the
result of a partnership between Indigenous bush foods
specialist Kakadu Kitchen and Sydney’s ALTD Spirits.
The canned twist on the Italian classic is made with
an-marabula (a rare cousin of the Kakadu plum), which
is ethically harvested by Kakadu Kitchen owner and
Bininj man Ben Tyler and his extended family on
Murumburr country in the heart of Kakadu National Park.
$25 for 4 x 250ml, altdspirits.com

I

ON

SPO
T

L

T
GH

COOL KIT

WORDS KATIE SPAIN. PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM BRUZZONE (YALUMBA) & WILL HORNER (ALTD).

As far as wine preservation gadgets go, Coravin
is essential arsenal for serious imbibers. The
latest release is the Coravin x Keith Haring
Timeless Six+ Artist Edition, an homage to the
late creative whose pop art exploded across
New York City’s graffiti scene in the 1980s.
$699.95, coravin.com.au

TURN BACK TIME
Raising the standard for cellar
door tastings, Barossa winery
Yalumba has launched a program
of immersive experiences. These
range from the two-hour Yalumba
Unlocked experience ($75) to
a four-hour Icons of Yalumba
experience ($300) that makes
its way through the winery
with flagship wines in hand.
yalumba.com

LACHLAN COLWILL
Chef-owner, Omotenashi, Hobart
We approach our beverage offering
with two rough concepts in mind. The
first is to only serve beverages we truly
enjoy drinking ourselves: Junmai sake,
minimal intervention wines and wild
ferment beers.
The second is to serve beverages from
producers we would happily drink with.
The people out there making the wild,
small-scale and “minimally messed with”
stuff are our people and their approach to
beverages suits our approach to cooking.
The producer that most excites us at the
moment is R D’Meure wines. The
approach in the vineyards and winery are
best described as holistic and the wines
as artisanal or handcrafted. They are
made without any additions or filtration.
omotenashihobart.com

Wine people

MEET THE MAKER

B E L I N D A VA N E Y S S E N
South African-born winemaker Belinda van Eyssen runs
sustainability-driven wine brand The Cutting in the Barossa
Valley with her viticulturist husband Daniel McDonald.
What were your formative years like? I grew up on the outskirts
of Cape Town – a melting pot of cultures with a rich history of wine
production. Neither of my parents finished school and their greatest
wish was that their children aspired to be more than they could.
What drew you to the industry? I was never exposed to wine growing
up. Alcohol had a negative connotation in our community and wine
was for the elite. So, a life in wine was never on my radar. The
chemical analysis I had to perform on wines as a newly qualified
food technologist drew me into the intriguing world of winemaking.
I found myself accepting a role as a vintage intern in California;
a role that would ultimately lead me to Australia.
When did The Cutting launch and how has it evolved? When we
made the first wine from The Cutting vineyard in 2014, it was one
barrel of shiraz in an uninsulated shed. The quality was so good
we kept going. After a few years of becoming known for our style
of shiraz, we started exploring with old vine grenache and cinsault.
What have been the biggest challenges in your winemaking journey?
Overcoming stereotypes in the world of wine for me proves to be an
ongoing challenge, which started during my time in the South African
wine industry. I felt like I was constantly fielding questions like “Yes,
I'm an Indigenous female South African and yes, I can make wine”.

Clockwise from left:
winemaker Belinda
van Eyssen; The
Cutting vineyard in
the Barossa Valley.
42

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Any hot tips for people visiting the Barossa?
Shawn and Briony Kalleske at Laughing Jack have a great new cellar
door and make fantastic wines. For dinner, one of our favourites is
FermentAsian for world-class Vietnamese cuisine and an amazing
wine list. A new addition to the Barossa is Otherness in Angaston.
For accommodation, the newly refurbished The Louise is superb
along with the onsite Appellation restaurant.
the-cutting.com.au

WORDS KATIE SPAIN.

What needs to be done better in the wine industry? When I entered
the Australian wine scene after working in South Africa during
a transformative period, I questioned why there were no Indigenous
Australian winemakers, people like me? Twelve years later, the
question remains. We cannot ignore that we farm and benefit from
Aboriginal land that was never ceded. In my experience, transformation
is complex and requires committed ongoing efforts to break down the
barriers that prevent us from even starting a conversation.

t

O
T RA LIA N H ER

2019 Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz, $135
A sumptuous Australian archetype,
confident of its place in the pecking order
while finding favour with drinkers interested
in textural persuasion over obvious power.
An outlier in the Penfolds stable, with no
new oak. Better to liberate folds of spice,
soy and liquorice strap.

buy

an

o

Sc

Ned Goodwin
is a former
sommelier, wine
communicator and
Master of Wine
at Langton’s.
@nedgoodwinmw

S
AU

T

his issue marks a time of festivities, as much
as one of remembrance, as we embark on another
year. It is a time to be thankful and to celebrate
a life worth living, without the weight of recent
years. Wine makes the celebration more fluid, as a means
of social lubrication, as much as a vessel of culture. It
can transport us to places in the mind’s eye, serving as
a conduit of cultures far and wide, while serving, too,
as a vestibule of local traditions.
Lunar New Year is a seminal moment in the calendar
and an opportunity to embrace the bounty of cultures
that make modern Australia what it is today.
It also marks a time of movement and change. As
summer gives way to autumn, we prepare to welcome
a procession of changing colours, ingredients, generations
and, of course, new wine styles.
Here, I have selected a troika of treats that speak of
both tradition and celebration. They bring together the
old world and the new. They can be enjoyed now or, in the
case of the reds, laid down for future nostalgic indulgence.
All three are timeless and steadfast. Yet, each year,
they are renewed by the changing world. In this way,
these wines are much like us.
For this is a moment to take a moment. To calm
down and reflect as the incendiary heat passes. It is
time to drink something good.

E TO C E L L A R

Toast new beginnings and invest in future
good times, with this trio of top drops,
as suggested by NED GOODWIN.

Delamotte Champagne NV, $75
Situated in the renowned Le Mesnil-surOger, a Grand Cru dedicated to Chardonnay,
Delamotte is marked by a discretion as
much as a latent power, hewn of chalk soils
and the pungent mineral forcefield they
impart. A wine of creamy depth and
ample toastiness.

ON

Good tidings

R E A DY T O P O

P

To p d r o p s

To purchase these wines,
or any of Langton’s collection
of premium wines, simply
scan the QR code.

2019 Chateau Latour à Pomerol, $185
This burr of merlot and cabernet franc
remains close to my heart given the
tear-inducing quality of the ’61, among
the finest wines ever tasted. The 2019
is set for a similar trajectory. Expect flecks
of plum and sage amid a framework of
sinuous tannins draped with graphite.

Yarra Valley
VI C TO RIA
SAMANTHA PAYNE discovers why the Yarra Valley’s community
and terrain make it such fertile ground for innovative drinks.

T
Samantha is
a sommelier,
writer and wine
consultant.
@sl_payne

he Yarra Valley is a tale of two
winemaking stories. The original is an
early settler costume drama set in 1838
and the years to follow. Then came the
softly anticipated 1970s sequel when a second wave
of pioneers re-founded the region after the
majority of the vines had been pulled out in 1921.
The thing that underpins both histories is the
Yarra’s sense of connection. With the centre of
Melbourne less than 50 kilometres away, the region
is scintillatingly close to a buzzing hospitality
culture. This access to big-city energy drives

innovation but it’s not outdone by the bond of
country community, which brings people together
across its 3130 square kilometre landscape.
“Sometimes we call the Yarra, ‘outer Melbourne’
because we’ve absorbed the hospo and food vibe of
the city in our region,” says Melanie Chester, head
of winemaking and viticulture for Giant Steps.
Chester found her way to the Yarra in 2021
after a prolific career across Victoria’s other, more
isolated, wine regions. “I knew about the pedigree
of the vineyards out here, but it was only once
I arrived that I fully understood the reputation.”

Wine country

YA

R

VA L
RA

LEY

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

The Wurundjeri people are the traditional custodians of
the land within Yarra Ranges, Melbourne and further
north. The Wurundjeri people’s name is based on the
name of the white gum (Eucalyptus viminalis). In the
Woiwurrung language, “wurun” means the Manna Gum,
and “djeri” is the grub which is found in or near the tree.

EY

For Cameron Mackenzie, head distiller and co-founder
of Four Pillars, the Yarra Valley town of Healesville was an
obvious home for his boutique gin brand. He says the
proximity to Melbourne’s bar scene just as the area’s
regional charm and great community play their parts.
“There’s an approachability here alongside incredible
produce and ingredients.”
It’s this spirit of approachability and a desire to draw on
hyper-local ingredients that paved the way for some of Four
Pillars’ most successful innovations. Among them is the
Underhill Shiraz collaboration, which they’ve produced for
three years now with prestigious Yarra winery Yarra Yering
and winemaker Sarah Crowe. “Gin didn’t innovate for 40
years; we had London Dry and that was it,” says Mackenzie,
who jokes that, like winemaking, the experiments don’t
always work but that’s part of the process. “There’s a reason
you’re not writing about our asparagus gin – things don’t
always work. Nine out of ten won’t see the light of day.”
Yarra Valley also has nature on its side. The region has
two main soil types for growing grapes and botanicals; the
valley floor, a former floodplain with pale grey soils dated
back about 450 million years while Upper Yarra has more
volcanic basalt soils dating back around 70 million years.
Both are amazing landscapes for growing pinot noir and
chardonnay, the two main varieties the Yarra hangs its hat
on, alongside cabernet and syrah (or shiraz).
With all this variety, Chester is a big believer in offering
single vineyard wines, to honour each vineyard’s distinct
personalities. She explains, “Soil types show expression.
One of the blessings in my role is experiencing different
pockets of the valley and their idiosyncrasies,” she says.
“We’re just the custodians who deliver the grapes’
message in the best possible way – but it always comes
back to place.” 

O F YA R R A V
E
A
ST

LL

Yarra Yering
Melbourne

AT
A

Healesville

2022 Mayer Bloody Hill Villages Chardonnay, $42
Pink grapefruit, green melon and nectarine meet
subtle flinty notes and oak in a show of elegance
and a refined minerality. This modern style of
chardonnay pairs wonderfully with lobster linguine.
timomayer.com.au
Four Pillars Bloody Bandwagon, $50
This punchy “faux pillars” non-alcoholic gin
uses Yarra Valley shiraz grapes to build colour
and burst out of the glass with red berries
and hints of spice. Perfect for a riff on
a highball, with a generous splash of soda.
fourpillarsgin.com
2021 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard
Pinot Noir, $70
The sun hits early at Applejack Vineyard,
causing full ripeness of both stems and fruit.
This creates ideal conditions for the generous
use of whole bunch in the blend. Thus making
this pinot a savoury bomb of mushroom and
truffle notes with incredible earthiness.
giantstepswine.com.au
2015 La Maison De Ong ‘The Hermit’
Museum Selection Syrah, $68
With pinot noir and chardonnay hogging the Yarra
Valley limelight, Jayden Ong’s museum-release
syrah is a benchmark example of why we shouldn’t
overlook other varieties in the Yarra. Perfumed
blue fruits elegantly weave through a mediumbodied palate with a lick of sweet spices.
jaydenong.com
2021 Mac Forbes EB76 ‘Taken for Granite’
Pinot Meunier, $40
Fermented and matured entirely in concrete
vessels for maximum purity of fruit expression.
Pinot meunier is for the lovers of light, chilled reds.
Vibrant strawberry and cherry expressions,
alongside tart plums, make this an excellent
charcuterie board wine. Just dunk in an ice
bucket as you graze away the afternoon.
macforbes.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

45

Cocktail hour

LUN AR E CLI PS E

B

For weekly cocktail
inspiration, follow
us on Instagram
@gourmettraveller

3

T
46

To make spice syrup, add 2 tbsp whole cloves and
2 tbsp whole star anise to a dry saucepan and
toast over low heat until lightly fragrant. Add 300ml
water, bring to a simmer and cover for 5 minutes.
Turn off heat. Strain the liquid, weigh it, then add
an equal weight of caster sugar and stir to dissolve.
In a cocktail shaker, combine 50ml bourbon,
20ml freshly squeezed mandarin juice, 15ml freshly
squeezed lemon juice and 10ml spice syrup. Fill the
shaker with ice, shake vigorously until well chilled
and double strain into a rocks glass full of ice.
Garnish with a mandarin wedge and pandan leaf.

Y

H

RE

EE TO

TR

PS40’s Lunar Eclipse

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Bulleit Frontier
Kentucky Straight
Bourbon
A high rye content gives
Bulleit a distinct warm,
peppery complexion
that’s sure to stand out
in mixed drinks.
$58 for 700ml
vintagecellars.com.au

Four Roses Kentucky
Straight Bourbon
Promising a more
delicate finish than
others in its category,
Four Roses delivers
smooth honey and
tropical fruit notes.
$59.99 for 700ml
kentstreetcellars.com.au

Wild Turkey Kentucky
Straight Bourbon
Cinnamon and other
spices poke through in
this whiskey by Jimmy
Russell, the longesttenured active master
distiller on Earth.
$54.99 for 700ml
danmurphys.com.au

WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.

ack in 2019, PS40 owner Michael
Chiem overhauled the entire
cocktail selection at his esteemed
Sydney CBD bar and introduced
a series of mixed drinks inspired by festivals
across the world. The list included the likes
of the Dark Mofo – a fizzy, chilled mulled
wine of sorts – as well as a clarified beetroot
juice number with dark rum and vermouth
honouring Hanami, Japan’s annual cherry
blossom viewing celebration.
Perhaps the most captivating of all these
was the Lunar New Year, an intricate blend
of red bean, pandan leaf, whisky and
Cognac with a kaleidoscopic nutty-sweet
complexity. “I based the drink around nian
gao, the traditional red bean dessert
commonly served around the New Year that
features the same spices, pandan leaf and
dried citrus peel,” says Chiem.
Here, Chiem welcomes the Year of
the Rabbit by taking a similar but more
refreshed approach, ditching the red bean
in favour of fragrant mandarin, and trading
the duo of brown spirits for bourbon.
“Bourbon is a very complementary choice,”
he says. “The tannins and natural vanilla
spices bring a lot to the drink.”

Provence Rosé
from Maison Saint Aix

The French term, Joie de vivre is often used to express a
feeling of happiness and enjoyment of life, literally translated
as a ‘Joy of life’ and few wines can encapsulate that sentiment
more than the pale, dry, and aromatic rosé wines of Provence.

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ith 300 days of sunshine a year,

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the smallest), where one winemaker

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into the hills, intertwined with the famous

has been building the reputation of the

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known for. It’s easy for the imagination

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town, is situated 25 kms out of Aix-en-

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lifestyle more than the historic town

Provence. The location and altitude, at

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of Aix-en-Provence, the capital of the

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the backbone of the wine, while Syrah

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rosé

and Cinsault grapes make up the rest of

the

soils, warm sunny days, and cool nights.

for long relaxed lunches, and evenings
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consul

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toy-like rows of houses, village squares

AIX Tasting Note

lined with bistros and cafés and the
springs

bubbling

up

throughout

the

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of the three wine appellations, (regions)
that make up the wines of Provence, the
home of rosé. Côteaux d'Aix-en-Provence

A bright, joyous, pale pink colour in the glass. A swirl lifts the intense
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meticulous about production methods

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one brand. That is AIX Rosé. The ethos

and the results speak for themselves; the

to more robust charcuterie and soft

that underpins the complex production

pale salmon-pink wine he helped bring to

cheeses, AIX Rosé is versatile at the

of the wine, is simply to make the very

life now has cult status in countries all

table. It also has the unusual ability to

best rosé each year. As Kurver points out,

over the world.

stand up to a touch of chilli, making it

“My goal was to produce a thoroughly
enjoyable wine, but also one that was
complex and exclusive enough to win
gold medals and be awarded excellent
reviews around the world.” To achieve
this the Domaine has a state-of-the-art
winery, dedicated solely to producing
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forthcoming 2022 vintage played a large
part in reducing the impact of a very dry
year with cover crops and a high organic
content in the soil retaining moisture.
Keeping oxygen at bay is also key in
the fresh, mineral style that AIX Rosé is
renowned for. Kurver elaborates, “In the
past they used a lot of Sulphur Dioxide,
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less than a quarter of the amount that

Australia has embraced the wines of
Provence and no more so than AIX Rosé,
our

sunny

outdoors

lifestyle

echoes

perfect with Asian spice, indeed all the
hallmarks of modern Australian cooking
and entertaining.

that of Provence. Family get togethers,

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are the perfect match for AIX. Kurver

New York, AIX is the ideal wine to be

notes, “Australia is such a key market

shared. A perfectly pink way to see out

for us, we love how the Australian wine

the Australian summer, a Joie de vivre

community continues to enjoy our wine,

in bottled form.

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for our large format bottles. AIX has the
advantage that it's both an everyday

Proudly Independent

luxury and the perfect celebration wine.
Conviviality and generosity are key to
our lifestyle and how we want AIX to be
thought of, and this really resonates with
our Australian friends”.

is allowed by the appellation regulations

AIX Rosé also has the enviable ability

by using the inert gas nitrogen along the

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winemaking journey.” Kurver is famously

dishes and cuisines. From fresh seafood

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It can also be found at independent
liquor retailers across Australia.

Photo credits: Studio BaALT

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SCAN TO SHOP

FEBRUARY

From easy-to-prepare dishes for entertaining to simple
suppers, these everyday recipes keep things fast and fresh.

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN FREE

DAIRY FREE

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling STEVE PEARCE
Recipes BEC DICKINSON

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

51

Summer clam chowder
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

30
100
1
4
2
2
1.5
125
60
2

SERVING SUGGESTION
For an added indulgence, try
this topped with a grating of
your favourite hard cheese.

gm unsalted butter
gm pancetta, cut into lardons
onion, finely chopped
garlic cloves, thinly sliced
tbsp finely chopped thyme
corn cobs, kernels removed
kg clams (vongole)
ml (½ cup) dry white wine
gm crème fraîche
tsp red wine vinegar or to taste
Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 tsp juice, or
to taste
Warm bread rolls and micro parsley,
to serve

1 Melt butter in a large heavy-based
saucepan over high heat. Add pancetta
and stir until lightly browned (3-4
minutes). Transfer to a small bowl with
a slotted spoon. Add onion to pan,
cook, stirring occasionally, until softened
(3-4 minutes).
2 Add garlic and thyme to pan; cook,
stirring occasionally, until fragrant
(1-2 minutes). Return pancetta to pan with
corn, clams, and wine. Cover with a lid
and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until
clams open (3-5 minutes). Remove pan
from heat. Stir in crème fraîche, vinegar,
lemon zest and juice; season to taste.
3 To serve, divide chowder between
bowls. Scatter with micro parsley. Serve
with warmed bread rolls on the side.

Everyday

Spiced ocean trout
with avocado and
pomelo salsa
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS MARINATING, STANDING)

1 tsp coriander seeds
1⁄2 tsp each fennel and cumin seeds,
black peppercorns
1⁄4 tsp each ground turmeric and
cardamom
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
6 skinless, boneless ocean trout fillets
(180gm each)
Pan-seared roti bread and natural
yoghurt, to serve
AVOCADO AND POMELO SALSA

1
2
60
2
1
1
1
1⁄4

lemon (160gm), segmented
garlic cloves, crushed
ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
pink pomelos, segmented
large avocado, sliced
mango, thinly sliced
small red onion, thinly sliced
cup each (loosely packed) mint
leaves and dill

1 Dry-roast whole spices in a small frying
pan over low heat until fragrant
(1 minute), then finely grind with a morar
and pestle. Stir through ground spices.
Transfer to a large bowl and combine
with 1 tsp salt flakes and oil. Add trout
and turn to coat in seasoning. Set aside
to marinate until ready to cook.
2 For salsa, place lemon, garlic and oil in
a large bowl, season to taste and stir to
combine. Stand for 10 minutes. Add
pomelo, avocado, mango, and onion to
lemon dressing; toss to combine.
3 Heat a large frying pan over medium
heat. Cook trout, in batches, turning
occasionally, until cooked to your liking
(4 minutes for medium).
4 To serve, add herbs to salsa, season
to taste and toss to combine. Divide trout
and salsa among plates and drizzle with
extra oil. Serve with roti and yoghurt. ➤

FLAVOUR TIP
Dial up the depth of flavour by
marinating trout in spices a day
ahead and refrigerate overnight.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

53

Everyday

Prosciutto-wrapped lamb
with peach and mozzarella
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

70 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
2 tsp finely chopped thyme
2 garlic cloves, crushed
6 lamb cutlets (200gm each)
3 prosciutto slices, halved lengthways
1 each white and yelllow peach,
cut into wedges
1 buffalo mozzarella (250gm), drained
1 golden shallot, thinly sliced
350 gm watercress, sprigs picked
30 ml balsamic vinegar
Juice of ½ lemon, or to taste
Basil, to serve

54

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Place 1 tbsp oil, thyme and garlic in a
bowl, season to taste and stir to
combine. Add cutlets and toss to coat.
Wrap each cutlet in a prosciutto slice.
2 Heat a large frying pan over medium
heat. Sear lamb, turning occasionally,
until browned all over (3-5 minutes); rest
for 5 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, tear mozzarella, and
combine with peaches, shallot and
watercress in a large bowl. Add
remaining oil, vinegar and lemon juice,
season to taste and toss to combine.
4 Divide lamb and peach salad between
plates. Scatter with basil and freshly
cracked black pepper; drizzle with oil.

PRODUCE TIP
Use the ripest stonefruit
available. Alternatively, this
works equally well with
watermelon or rockmelon.

Everyday

South Indian coconut
and chickpea stir-fry
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

20
2
1
3
1
400
2

gm shredded coconut
tbsp vegetable oil
tsp brown mustard seeds
dried red chillies (optional)
sprig curry leaves
gm can chickpeas, drained, rinsed
tbsp finely chopped coriander, plus
extra sprigs, to serve
1 long fresh red chilli, thinly sliced
Mango chuntey, lime pickle and
pappadums, to serve

1 Place coconut in a small heatproof
bowl with enough boiling water to cover;
set aside.
2 Heat oil in a large frying pan over
medium-high heat. Toast mustard seeds,
dried chillies and curry leaves, stirring
frequently, until fragrant (1 minute);
remove curry leaves and set aside.
3 Add chickpeas to pan and cook,
stirring, until warmed through and
beginning to turn golden (5-6 minutes);
season to taste.
4 Drain coconut, add to chickpeas with
coriander and fresh chilli; toss to
combine. Top chickpeas with extra
coriander and curry leaves. ➤

ON THE SIDE
Serve with
pappadums, rice, and
a selection of Indian
condiments, such as
mango chutney, lime
pickle and raita.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

55

Everyday

Greek pork with silverbeet and olives
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 25 MINS

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
to serve
500 gm minced pork
1 baby fennel bulb, trimmed,
thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp dried oregano
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
450 gm silverbeet, trimmed, coarsely
shredded
100 gm green olives, cheeks removed
Zest and juice of 2 lemons
100 gm feta, thinly sliced
Lemon wedges and fresh oregano
leaves, to serve

1 Heat oil in a large saucepan over
medium heat. Add minced pork and
fennel, stir occasionally until pork is
browned (5-7 minutes). Stir in garlic,
fennel seeds and dried oregano until
fragrant (1 minute).
2 Add wine to pork mixture, increase
heat to high and cook until wine is
reduced by half (5 minutes). Cover to
keep warm.
3 Meanwhile, blanch silverbeet until
wilted (30 seconds). Refresh then drain.
4 Add silverbeet to pork with olives,
lemon zest and juice, stir to combine and
season to taste.
5 Divide among bowls with feta. Serve
scattered with fresh oregano and lemon
wedges on the side. Drizzle with oil.

MAKE IT VEGETARIAN
Simply swap the pork for
diced zucchini, pumpkin
or eggplant.

Baharat cauliflower
and walnut-bread
sauce
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS PICKLING)

1.5 kg cauliflower, cut into 6 wedges,
keeping leaves intact
180 ml (¾ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
3 garlic cloves, crushed, plus 1 extra
clove, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp baharat (see note)
50 gm crustless white sourdough
bread, torn
200 gm walnuts, roasted
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1⁄4 cup flat-leaf parsley, torn
Micro purple basil, to serve
GRAPE SALSA

300 gm seedless red grapes, halved
2 golden shallots, thinly sliced
3 small preserved lemons, cut into thin
wedges
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Preheat oven to 240°C. Place
cauliflower on an oven tray; brush with
combined 125ml oil, crushed garlic and
baharat; season to taste. Roast until
golden and tender (25-30 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, place sourdough in a
bowl and pour over 250ml water; stand
for 5 minutes.
3 For grape salsa, place grapes,
shallots, preserved lemon, vinegar and
oil in a bowl, season and toss to
combine. Set aside to pickle (10 minutes).
4 Squeeze excess water from bread.
Place bread, 170gm walnuts, remaining
oil and chopped garlic in a food
processor. With motor running, gradually
add 250ml water in a steady stream,
process until very smooth. Add vinegar
and process to combine, season to taste.
5 To serve, spread walnut-bread sauce
over plates. Top with cauliflower and
grape salsa; scatter with parsley, basil,
remaining walnuts and drizzle with oil.
Note Baharat is a Middle Eastern spice
blend available at delicatessens or
online at herbies.com.au. ➤

SERVING
SUGGESTION
Pair with nutty
grain or legumes
such as farro,
bulghur wheat or
green lentils.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

57

Hokey pokey
banana split
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS
COOLING)

6 bananas, skin on, halved lengthways
Coconut oil, melted, for brushing
30 gm coconut sugar (see note)
6 white marshmallows
Coconut ice-cream and chopped
honeycomb (see note), to serve
SALTED PEANUT CARAMEL

200 gm caster sugar
60 gm salted butter, coarsely chopped
125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream
Roasted salted peanuts, coarsely
chopped, to serve

PREPARE AHEAD
The caramel can be
made in advance; simply
thin with a little hot
water before serving.

We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and seafood from Notaras Fish Markets
in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.

1 For caramel, stir sugar and 60ml water
in a small saucepan over medium-high
heat until sugar dissolves, then bring to
the boil and cook, swirling pan
occasionally, until light caramel in colour
(4-5 minutes). Add butter and whisk to
combine. Add cream (be careful, mixture
may spit) and 2 tsp sea salt flakes, whisk
to combine. Set aside and cool to room
temperature.
2 Heat a large non-stick frying pan over
high heat. Brush bananas with coconut
oil and scatter with coconut sugar. Cook,
in batches, cut-side down until just
starting to caramelise (2-3 minutes).
Transfer to a plate.
3 Thread marshmallows onto small
metal forks. Toast over a flame until just
charred (20-30 seconds).
4 To serve, place 2 banana halves on
each plate. Top with scoops of ice-cream
and toasted marshmallows. Drizzle with
caramel and sprinkle with honeycomb
and peanuts.
Note Honeycomb is available at select
supermarkets. Coconut sugar is available
from select supermarkets and healthfood shops. 

Celebrate Summer
Saké -style

EXPLORE JAPANESE CUISINE AT ITS FINEST
sakerestaurant.com.au

Kek lapis
This Indonesian layered cake symbolises
longevity and prosperity for the year
ahead, and is surprisingly easy to make.

Masterclass

A

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT. STYLING LUCY BUSUTTIL. RECIPE & FOOD PREPARATION DOMINIC SMITH.

lso known as spekkoek, a product of the Dutch colonisation in
Indonesia, this cake has persisted and taken on its own unique history
with Indonesians as a celebration cake. It often has more than 18
layers, so baking requires patience, but less layers can still prove
equally impressive. The layered cake is served at Imlek (Chinese New Year) as
well as weddings and birthdays, but can also be found year-round in bakeries and
supermarkets. Variations of the cake have travelled to Malaysia (sarawak layer
cake) where colourful detailed layered cakes are similarly enjoyed at celebrations.

3
SERVES 12-14 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 40 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)

300
1
24
400
400
2½
2
300
1
½

gm finely grated palm sugar
tbsp lime juice
egg yolks (from extra-large eggs)
gm honey
gm butter, chopped, melted, cooled
tbsp dark aged rum or brandy
tsp vanilla bean paste
gm (2 cups) plain flour
tsp ground cinnamon and cardamom
tsp ground clove and ground
star anise
16 egg whites
220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar
Mango wedges, roasted and coarsely
chopped macadamias, to serve

5

1

For palm sugar caramel, place palm
sugar in a heavy-based saucepan
with 100ml water over high heat and
cook, stirring occasionally with a metal
spoon, until sugar dissolves, then simmer
to a dark caramel (8-10 minutes). Taking
care as mixture will spit, stir in lime juice
and 2 tbsp water until combined; cool to
room temperature.

6

4

Using an electric mixer, whisk
whites until just starting to foam,
then gradually whisk in sugar until stiff
and glossy (4-5 minute).

5

For layer cake, preheat oven grill
to 220˚C. Grease a 7.5cm-deep,
20cm square cake tin and line the base
with baking paper.

Spoon 1 cup batter into tin; spread
evenly with an offset spatula to
cover base. Cook on top shelf in oven,
under grill, checking occasionally, or
until top is dark brown (3-4 minutes).
Repeat process, spreading another cup
of batter over each cooked layer until all
batter is used, watching cake constantly;
cool cake in the tin.

3

6

2

Using an electric mixer, whisk yolks
and honey on high speed until
very thick and pale (6-8 minutes). Reduce
speed to low-medium; pour in combined
melted butter, rum, and vanilla, until
incorporated. Sift over flour and spices,
then gently fold in to combine.

To serve, run a knife around edge
of cake and turn onto a board.
Using a ruler, trim edges square, then
halve cake and cut into portions. Serve
cake drizzled with palm sugar caramel
and scatter with roasted macadamias
and mango wedges. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

61

Nostalgia bites
Food and memory is inextricably linked
especially during Lunar New Year. Here
three Australian writers reflect on the
tastes that take them back to childhood.
Photography WILL HORNER

Styling HOLLY DORAN

TRAY OF TOGETHERNESS
The Lunar New Year snack box, or tray of togetherness, is a concoction of
confections traditionally offered to visitors to bring them luck, happiness and good
fortune for the year ahead. ANGE SEEN YANG cracks open her lacquered candy box
of childhood memories to recall the treats that left the sweetest aftertaste.

I

t began in the sweltering backseat of a Toyota Camry.
The annual meeting of the New Year Snack Syndicate,
which is an exclusive club with just two members – my
sister and I – and it was formed with one very specific
goal: to stocktake the sweets we’d manage to raid from
Lunar New Year snack boxes.
You’d find these vibrantly decorated boxes – and their
compartments filled with flaky coconut biscuits, dried
candied fruits and more – on the dining room tables of
relatives we visited. These snacks were historically chosen
to signify prosperity and health: hallmark themes for a great
Lunar New Year. And after raiding them, our stash was
almost as valuable as the cash-filled red packets we’d receive
during Lunar New Year.
But we didn’t really care about tradition or eating our
way to good fortune or health.
Our rankings were ruled by one thing: sugar.
Top-tier on our most-wanted list were the White Rabbit
lollies with their magical rice paper wrappers that dissolved
on our tongues to give way to a chewy, creamy milky inside.
Coconut biscuits were next, inexplicably melty but crunchy
at the same time. Then jellies and chocolates scored
honourable mentions at those early Snack Syndicate
meetings. Car rides that left us in sugar comas, drowsily
gleeful at pulling off another raid.
As we got older, crispy little cookies known as love letters
moved up our ratings ladder, their wafer-like layers folded
into quarters or rolled into neat cylinders. Apparently,
lovers used them to send covert messages when they were
unable to meet without chaperones. If this romantic myth
is true, I hope they found the same joy I felt from stuffing
a box of love letters into my mouth and wiping the crumbs
off my ill-fitting, cheongsam-inspired top afterwards.
Back then, the snacks that reigned supreme were
pineapple tarts: buttery biscuits filled with tart pineapple
jam. Their outsides are pale yellow, similar to shortbread,
with a bright orange centre that glistens in the afternoon

sunlight. Pineapple tarts look deceptively simple – they
don’t have the intricate patterns of a love letter, or the
indescribable texture of coconut biscuits. But I never
appreciated how they were made until I visited my granduncle’s pastry store in Penang, Malaysia. It was a Willy
Wonka-esque moment as I gazed upon rows and rows
of pineapple tarts, next to almond cookies and whispery
dragon’s beard candies, similar to fairy floss.
My enthusiasm and appetite for them followed me home
to Perth where I attempted to bake my own batch in the
confines of my suburban one-oven kitchen. The logic went
like this: I’d seen the process, I’d tasted the result, and
I was armed with an online recipe and a sensory memory,
rich with a lifetime’s worth of pineapple tarts. Surely it
would be fine. Success would guarantee an endless supply
that didn’t rely on Lunar New Year, or AirAsia’s next round
of discount flights.
It only took four hours, an overly crumbly biscuit dough,
and a centre which melted into a sad excuse of a biscuit for
me to concede defeat.
These days I prefer to raid grocery aisles for my sweets,
keeping my hands flour-free and my oven safely off. I love
loading my hatchback with clear containers of love letters,
biscuits and sweets, which lightly bump along in the
passenger seat as I head to the office, friends’ homes and
morning teas. They inevitably spark curiosity (“I’ve never
had these!” some people say), while others exclaim and share
nostalgic memories (“I remember these!”).
And sure enough, I’ll swing by my sister’s place to share
my haul. It’s been two decades since our early meetings but
we’re likely to gorge ourselves – encapsulating the new year
spirit of joy, prosperity and gluttonous excess. Because, the
New Year Snack Syndicate never stops convening.
Ange Seen Yang is a Perth-based Asian-Australian writer and
founder of newsletter Vegemite In My Congee.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

63

GOK JAI
Named for their half-moon shape, gok jai are found across
Guangdong Province in various guises. HETTY LUI MCKINNON
reflects on the dish that signifies her family and their heritage.

M

y favourite Lunar New Year dishes are indeed
“dumplings”. But they are not the dumplings
that most people know. They are called gok jai
and they are a translucent-skinned steamed
dumpling filled with a savoury filling of meat and veggies
or just veggies. They are the first dumplings I learnt to make
and it was such a rite of passage when my mother taught me
the recipe. In recent years, I have found out that gok jai are
made and eaten across Guangdong Province during the
Lunar New Year, but our savoury steamed gok jai are unique
to Zhongshan, where my family is from. I worked this out
after talking to my friend in Sacramento – her family hail
from Toisan (“a few provinces away”) and they make gok jai
for the Lunar New Year too but theirs are deep-fried and
sweet. I loved learning about the regional incarnations of
food, and it made me treasure my own family celebrations
and recipes even more. It is also a reminder that there is no
such thing as one interpretation of “Chinese” food – it is so
diverse and sprawling and is unique to every region and
every family. For me, preserving these stories and customs
of my own family is absolutely paramount.
This and so many of my favourite childhood memories
are around Lunar New Year. We always celebrated Lunar
New Year Day at home and in the following days, there
would be a meal at my uncle’s restaurant, Lees Fortuna
Court in Crows Nest (it’s still there, and must more than
40 years old) where our cousins, aunts and uncles would
gather for a banquet feast, followed by the Lion Dance. The
pulsating beat of the drums, and the clang of the cymbals all
inside a restaurant was something else – I was partly afraid
of it, especially as the lion’s head burst forward to collect the
lei see, and partly thrilled by the noise, the colour, the
excitement. Afterwards, we would roll into the car (roll,
because we would be so full from all the food) for the long
car ride back over the bridge, and my siblings and I would
all count our money to make sure we collected the same
amount. As a kid, Lunar New Year was one of the only
times of the year when I felt proud of my Chinese heritage.
I loved, and still love, everything about it.
Food writer and cookbook author Hetty Lui McKinnon was raised
in Sydney and is now based in New York.

64

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

B Á N H C H U’ N G
This traditional sticky rice cake is made of glutinous rice, pork and
mung beans and then wrapped in banana leaves. It’s also loaded with
the trials and tribulations of family rituals, writes DIEM TRAN.

L

unar New Year is a time for family reunions and
feasting, but the first thing that comes to my mind
is my grandmother’s scorched lawn, accidentally
destroyed by her church friends and their makeshift
bánh chu’ng production line. They were assembling the
parcels of steamed banana leaf and glutinous rice for Tết
Nguyên Ðán, the celebration of Vietnamese Lunar New Year.
Also known as Tết, it coincides with Chinese New Year.
For me, 2023 is especially fortuitous: it’s the year of the
cat if you follow the Vietnamese zodiac. The animal is
missing from the Chinese version because it failed to attend
a feast and consequently was left off the table (literally and
metaphorically). The year of the cat is my year and my
mum’s, too. The creature is known for its speed and
intelligence and many people under this zodiac are
apparently successful in areas like maths and accounting.
Leading up to Lunar New Year, I look forward to the
ubiquitous stacks of square-shaped bánh chu’ng. Their tightly
folded banana leaves encase more than glutinous rice: there
are layers of mung bean and pork, too, seasoned with black
pepper, green onion and fish sauce. The rice has the
tendency to stick to everything but the banana leaf, so
fingers, forks and crockery are all left to soak afterwards,
lest you enjoy rewashing dishes.
The aroma is savoury and grassy, which lends itself to its
humble folklore-ish origins. Thousands of years ago, the king
of the sixth Hùng dynasty challenged his 18 sons to bring
him a dish that showed they were capable of ruling, as well
as respecting their ancestors. Lang Liêu, his poorest and
youngest, offered up bánh chu’ng (square to represent the
earth) and bánh tét (its cylindrical sibling, to symbolise the
moon). Lang Liêu ascended the throne as ruler of the

seventh Hùng dynasty (1631-1432 BC) and his legacy lives
on in the bánh chu’ng stacked on modern-day home altars
and via exchanges during Tết.
Preparing bánh chu’ng is strenuous and labour-intensive.
Yet for as long as I can remember, the bánh chu’ng in South
Australia has been prepared by volunteers from the
Vietnamese Catholic community, including my
90-something grandmother and her friends. One of my
most vivid childhood memories involves my grandmother
offering up her house for this annual production.
Volunteers took over her living room and garden, each
component of the cake being prepared in organised chaos.
For weeks, they worked in overlapping shifts, soaking rice,
marinating the pork, wiping banana leaves, assembling,
wrapping, tying and finally loading the cakes in giant
home-made steamers for their 12-hour sojourn. After orders
were fulfilled and tray tables packed down, it turned out
bánh chu’ng wasn’t the only thing they cooked. If you
looked at her yard, and its impromptu use as a rice-cake
factory, you saw the aftermath: rings of scorched and singed
lawn, her tiny outdoor kitchen in disarray.
The pandemic has seen many elderly volunteers pass the
baton to a younger generation. Across the sea, VietnameseAmerican chef Diep Tran runs annual bánh chu’ng-making
workshops under the Bánh Chu’ng Collective banner. These
lessons moved online in 2020, with hundreds of Vietnamese
diaspora signing up to carry on the tradition.
Closer to home, my parents will stretch out our
allocation by freezing bánh chu’ng and prising them out
many weeks after new year has ended. We cut off thick slices
to enjoy and pan-fry them until the edges crisp and the rice
becomes stickier. It’s the perfect way to prolong the season
– without damaging anyone’s lawn.
Diem Tran is a Melbourne-based freelance writer. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

65

Photography STEVEN WOODBURN

Australia’s Chinatowns were the first areas to feel the
devastating effects of Covid. Three years on, things
are finally looking brighter, writes KEVIN CHENG.

I

t’s a warm Tuesday night in Sydney’s Chinatown, and judging
by the crowd of diners happily chugging back bottles of Tsingtao
beer as they feast on handmade dumplings and noodles from
Chinese Noodle Restaurant on Thomas Street, you might think
the headlines of Chinatown being dead were somewhat overcooked.
Traditionally bustling with activity, Chinatown in both Sydney
and Melbourne fell silent in early 2020, as a wave of Covid-fuelled
xenophobia swept the narrow alleyways, leaving restaurants empty
and the streets deserted. In March, the closure of international
borders saw tourists and international students disappear overnight.
As revenue dried up, a string of high-profile closures stabbed at the
hearts of Australian foodies. In Sydney, famed Cantonese restaurant
BBQ King was one of the first casualties, closing its doors in August
2020. That same month, Golden Century – whose pipis in XO sauce
had found global fandom, including the celebrity endorsement of
chef David Chang – went into administration. In late 2021, yum cha
institution Marigold closed after 39 years of feeding Sydneysiders.
But it wasn’t just upmarket Chinese seafood restaurants that
didn’t survive. The popular Dixon House Food Court closed in early
2021 and Eating World Food Court has now halved in size. Popular
late night Hong Kong diner Super Bowl narrowly escaped closure
after it was saved at the eleventh hour by a new owner.
Melbourne’s Chinatown – the oldest in Australia – saw the
closure of much-loved restaurants Shark Fin House and Ling Nan,
while dozens of other businesses have never recovered from the
city’s series of intense lockdowns.
Jing Jun Heng, president of the newly formed Melbourne
Chinatown Association, said the pandemic wiped out a host
of businesses that struggled to adapt. “They didn’t know whether
to staff or not to staff [their businesses]. They weren’t able to retain
staff, they weren’t able to continue with normal business,” he said.
It’s only now, as we welcome Lunar New Year 2023, that
Australia’s Chinatowns are beginning to recover. Crowds are back ➤

The hustle amd bustle
of crowds gathering
at Sydney’s Chinatown
returns post-Covid.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

67

Clockwise from right:
in the kitchen;
Haymarket’s Steam
King; dining at Super
Bowl Chinese
Restaurant
in Haymarket;
Emperor’s Garden
Cakes & Bakery in
Haymarket; Peking
ducks hang in the
window.

at restaurants and people are once again clamouring for the
best Asian food Sydney and Melbourne has to offer.
On Dixon Street in Sydney’s Chinatown, the queues are
back outside the Emperor’s Garden Cakes & Bakery, where
“Emperor’s puffs” – soft pastry filled with piping hot custard
– are flying off the production line. The recent Neon
Playground by Chinatown festival – a precinct activation
funded by the City of Sydney – saw thousands of visitors
flood the area to see the vibrant, neon-lit artworks and
complementing retail offers between October to November.
While earlier in the year, the City of Sydney’s annual Lunar
Festival returned, drawing hundreds of thousands of people
back to Chinatown and the CBD.
Jin Jung Heng says Melbourne’s Chinatown is
experiencing a similar revival, with new restaurants taking
over the prominent sites of past institutions. In Southgate,
Red Emperor signed a 10-year lease on the space that was
previously home to Shark Fin House and is trading well,
according to Heng.
“We are seeing a very strong resurgence. Everyone’s very,
very sick of being at home at this moment. There is a fair bit
of ‘revenge spending’. A lot more people are coming back
out...foot traffic has returned to 2019 levels,” he said.
In Sydney, the closure of Golden Century – one of
Australia’s most revered Cantonese restaurants that
welcomed chefs, dignitaries and pop stars alike – sent shock
waves through the community. This was soon followed by the
closure of Marigold, as the legendary yum cha eatery was
unable to withstand the ongoing pressures of the pandemic.
Chillie Poon is the managing director for Zilver Group,
which includes long-standing Cantonese diners The Eight
and Zilver located in the heart of Chinatown. Zilver, the
group’s flagship Cantonese restaurant, has been open since
1993 while The Eight has been in Market City Shopping
Centre for more than 12 years. Both are sprawling, upmarket
diners that feature live seafood tanks brimming with lobster,
crab, abalone and live fish – similar to Golden Century.
Poon says her restaurants have seen an uptick in “Aussie”
customers searching for live seafood, with an appetite for
lobster two ways (sashimi, and stir-fried with ginger and
68

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Many believe the survival of
Chinatowns globally will
depend on encouraging more
on-trend businesses to open.

shallots) and deep-fried king crab with salt and pepper.
“There have been quite a lot of seafood lovers coming
to The Eight and Zilver, mainly because they want to have
live seafood that they used to consume in those restaurants
[Golden Century and Marigold],” she said.
But despite the increased patronage from seafood-loving
locals, Poon says trade still hasn’t returned to pre-pandemic
levels. “Tourism hasn’t picked up yet due to restrictions in
China and border issues there,” she explains.
“At the beginning of Covid, we were quite shocked.
Nobody expected this to happen and especially in February
2020. Chinese New Year is the most profitable month for the
whole year so unfortunately it was quite a disaster,” she said.
While delivery was able to offset some of the loss of
business, Poon says the past two years have been “up and
down” for Zilver Group and Chinatown as a whole, as
government restrictions and lockdowns were implemented
and removed. Today, staff shortages and inflation continue
to challenge business.
Across Australia and the world, many believe the survival
of Chinatowns globally will depend on encouraging more
on-trend businesses to open, catering to a new generation
of consumers.
In Melbourne, several new operators have brought a fresh
demographic of customers to Chinatown that’s challenging
the “old school” vibe of the area. At Korean dessert cafe
Sulbing, queues of dessert-loving diners wait for their
signature bingsu (shaved ice) treats, while Filipino-inspired
gelato artisans Kariton Sorbetes have recently opened on
Russell Street. Other new restaurants shaking up Chinatown’s
eating scene include Jiyu Thai Hot Pot and Pearl Diver
Cocktails and Oysters.
Heng says their modern approach is only adding to
Chinatown’s charm, growing its appeal beyond yum cha.
“You don’t want a precinct just to have one type of
offering,” he says. “It’s that balance between paying respect to
the old and then embracing the new. We have some very, very
well established great yum cha places, such as West Lake,
Crystal Jade and also of course the famous Flower Drum,”
says Heng.
“Most of the Chinatown ‘institutions’ encourage more
diversity within the precinct because it adds value to
everyone’s offering...they view it as not more competition,
but more vibrancy that brings more people to the area.” 

D
O M
W E
N M
O
R
Y

Lunar New Year is a time to gather, celebrate
and feast – sometimes to (very memorable)
excess. LEE TRAN LAM calls on local chefs,
restaurateurs and other food personalities
to share their recollections of the holiday.

L
A
N
E

Giselle Sim with her family

Making pineapple tarts for Chinese New
Year’s arrival – that’s a tradition my mum
put in place. Four weeks in advance, Mum
would buy ingredients and show us recipes.
She’d have “measurements” that aren’t how
we’d measure things – like a Chinese soup
spoon or old soup bowl. It was confusing.
She’d show us how to beat the dough and
do flower shapes on the tarts. We’d work
through weekends and evenings to get
them already. It took so long! There was
only one oven and one mixer and we’d
make up to 500 tarts. My mum would need
me, all my sisters and my aunt. We’d fill
10 boxes, ready for gifting. And then I didn’t
even get to eat them, they were all given
away to relatives!

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (BACKGROUND), STLYING HOLLY DORAN.

Giselle Sim, Croff Bakehouse, Perth

Every Lunar New Year, I cook for my business partner
Adi Halim’s family. It’s a very premium menu: handpicked mud crabs, abalone, lobster, it’s a chance to go
all out. One year, we figured out what it’d cost if we
charged for it and it turned out to be almost $1000
a head! It’s jamón, caviar, foie gras – everything. I did
a massive yee sang (prosperity toss salad) for them: yee
sang is usually trout or salmon, but I put in raw scallop,
lobster, sturgeon caviar, salmon caviar, Yarra Valley
shiraz gin caviar. That’s probably the most lavish one
of all. They did toss it, like you’re meant to, but didn’t
go hard. Some people do get overexcited and it goes
everywhere. That brings you luck, right?
Khanh Nguyen, Sunda and Aru, Melbourne

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

71

Winter in Korea is cold and bitter, so your hands
freeze when you go out. When I was young,
I would carry a hand warmer with me, and my
mother would hold my frozen hand when I forgot
it. To me, Seollal (Korean New Year) is like a hand
warmer. At my grandparents’ house, my relatives
would prepare for Seollal – difficult with 30 people
gathered, but everyone helped and laughed
without complaints. On the morning of Seollal,
everyone would wake early, open the windows
and clean, in the cold air. They’d pray to ancestors
and eat tteokguk (rice cake soup). In Australia,
Seollal is in summer and a lot smaller, because my
relatives are in Korea. After Seollal breakfast, we
exchange New Year’s greetings and take a walk
together. Now, wrinkled and warm hands hold my
hands instead of the hand-warmer of winter.
Aileen Seo, Baguette Studios, Melbourne

Like many Chinese families, we have “the tray
of togetherness”. It holds roasted watermelon
seeds from Northern China. As kids, one of the
challenges my brother and I set for ourselves
was cracking open these seeds and extracting
them as a whole – like how people eat
crustraceans. With watermelon seeds, you put
them in your teeth vertically and bite down
with the right amount of force, gently pull the
seed, and eat them that way. The homonym
for watermelon seed is the same word for
offspring or son. You have them for New Year,
because it’s a symbol of fertility and wealth.
Arthur Tong, Tea Craft, Sydney

Filling the special Lunar New Year lacquer box
was a great joy: I remember the sound of the
pumpkin seeds hitting the plastic tray, they’d be
preserved in sugar. There was sweet winter
melon, cut into strips – essentially rectangular
blocks of sugar, masquerading as something
covering a melon. There’d be dried longan nuts,
also encrusted with sugar. There’d be dried curls
of coconut; everything was sugared. The idea of
sweetness is a common theme for new year: the
idea of starting new year on a sweet note. The
other sweet thing we’d have is year cake –
straight-up sugar in jelly form – before going
to school. I would have these celebratory
mornings, a whole thing that happened
before I even went to school that day.

Clockwise from below:
television host Jennifer
Wong; chef Junda Khoo with
his family. Opposite,
clockwise from top: Aileen
Seo celebrates Seollal; Tea
Craft’s Arthur Tong.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERESA TAN (JENNIFER WONG).

Jennifer Wong, host of Chopsticks Or Fork?
on ABC iView

For the first 15 years of my life, we celebrated Lunar
New Year in Malaysia. It was my favourite time of the
year, because it’s a long holiday. As a kid who didn’t enjoy
studying, that was fantastic. Grandmother would cook for
everyone, we’d all get together – uncles from Hong Kong,
the UK, they’d all fly back. We’d have firecrackers, and
Dad would sneak into our rooms and put red packets of
lucky money under our pillow, like the tooth fairy. Then
I came to Sydney when I was 16 – just me and my brother.
That was my first Chinese New Year not in Malaysia. We
still had to go to school, there were no celebrations, no
public holidays. I felt sad, this was my first Chinese New
Year without my family, red packets, fireworks, everything.
Because of that tormenting experience, ever since I started
Ho Jiak, I wanted to provide a space for diners who are not
with their families, for people to come to our restaurants,
to get a feast, that’s why we have lion dance shows every
year. It’s noisy, it’s festive, it’s a time to celebrate.
Junda Khoo, Ho Jiak, Sydney

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

73

Photography and words HARVARD WANG

PA RT Y

BACK OF

HOUSE

Across the country, restaurants will spend Lunar New Year creating
special meals and memories for diners. But what about their staff?
We head behind the scenes to capture some of the feasts that will sustain
them – and share a sense of celebration – at this special time of year.

Clockwise from above: Bia Hoi’s reunion dinner; chef
Jerry Mai; Bia Hoi’s signage; poached whole chicken
with head and feet still attached; the reunion dinner
table laid with bánh tét, whole chicken, thi.t kho trú,ng,
variety of pickles and canh khố qua. Opposite: at Etta,
chef Rosheen Kaul and staff mix yusheng (or yee sang),
the colourful shredded prosperity salad together.

BIA HOI
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

75

ETTA
Clockwise from right: Wensi tofu soup with rooster
consommé; Etta’s signage; and Etta’s chefs at work.
Opposite: Etta’s staff meal; the table laid with yusheng
with salmon sashimi, steamed glutinous rice in lotus
leaf, steamed salmon belly, and Wensi tofu soup;
staff in the Etta courtyard.

Yusheng translates to “an
increase in abundance”. It’s
important to not finish the
dish, to save some luck for
the rest of the year.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

77

YUGEN
For many staff,
family is thousands
of miles away so
the meal before
service on Lunar
New Year is their
reunion dinner.

Clockwise from below: wok-fried
tteobokki at Yugen; making the dish
for staff; executive pastry chef John
Demetrio prepares cookies dusted with
gold powder for dessert. Opposite:
Yugen’s open kitchen and staff meal.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

79

GAEA
Clockwise from below: chef Mo Zhou
makes sourdough dumpling skin;
staff prepare dumplings; beggar’s
chicken; and chef Mo Zhou.
Opposite: Gaea’s reunion dinner of
cured pork belly, beggar’s chicken,
sourdough dumplings and tofu skin
salad; Gaea’s staff and dining room.

80

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Auspicious reasons
aside, dumpling
making is essential
during Lunar New
Year because
it brings family
members together.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

81

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Duck sang
choi bau

94

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY.

p

New Year goodness
Wishing you a year of abundance with a Victor
Liong feast, Malaysian banquet recipes, Chinese
restaurant classics, and dumplings for days.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

85

Deep-fried coral
trout with sambal
belacan

p

91

Fa m i ly
affair

Styling AMBER DE FLORIO

Food preparation TAMIKA O’NEILL

Photography BEN DEARNLEY
Recipes ALVIN QUAH

Malaysian
rice salad

p
86

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

93

In Malaysia, families usher
in the new year over reunion
dinner. This vibrant menu
riffs on that tradition with
fortune and flavour for all.

Malaysian-style
spicy roast
chicken

p

Prosperity
salad

p

88

92

Add YEE SANG
above title

YEE SANG / YUSHENG

Prosperity salad
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2 MINS (PLUS PICKLING, COOLING)

Signifying abundance, this dish is the hallmark of any Lunar New Year feast. Guests
surround it, chopsticks poised and ready to toss the salad while exchanging good
wishes. The higher the toss, the more prosperous the year ahead.

10
10
500
200
1
50
1
½
2

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
wonton wrappers (60gm)
green beans, trimmed, split
gm sashimi-grade salmon, cut into
5mm-thick slices
gm rice vermicelli noodles, soaked
according to packet directions
ruby grapefruit or 1⁄4 pomelo,
segmented
gm daikon, cut into julienne
small carrot, cut into julienne
cup shredded Chinese cabbage,
leaves only
baby red radishes, thinly sliced
Micro coriander and roasted, crushed
peanuts, to serve
PICKLED VEGETABLES

½ cup shredded red cabbage
1 celery stalk, cut into 3cm batons
2 tsp caster sugar
DRESSING

60 ml (¼ cup) plum sauce
1 tbsp rice vinegar
2 tsp maple syrup
Juice of 1 lemon

88

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Fill a wok a third full with oil and place
over medium-high heat until 180˚C. Fry
wonton wrappers in batches, turning
occasionally, until golden and crisp (30
seconds). Drain on paper towel; season
with salt and break into 3cm shards.
2 For pickled vegetables, place red
cabbage and celery in separate bowls,
scatter each vegetable with 1 tsp sugar
and 2 tsp sea salt flakes; toss both to
combine. Stand for 20 minutes to pickle.
Squeeze moisture from red cabbage
and celery and reserve separately.
3 For dressing, whisk ingredients in a
small bowl, season to taste and set aside.
4 Blanch beans in a saucepan of boiling
water until just tender (2-3 minutes);
drain and refresh in iced water.
5 To assemble, arrange beans, salmon,
vermicelli, grapefruit, daikon, carrot,
Chinese cabbage, radish and pickled
red cabbage and celery on a large
platter. Drizzle over half of the dressing
and scatter with coriander and peanuts.
Serve with crisp wonton wrappers and
remaining dressing. ➤

Deep-fried coral trout with sambal belacan
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS

Serving a whole fish is symbolic of good fortune. When placed on the table as a part of a banquet, the head should
face the eldest member of the family unit as a sign of respect.

50
2
1
1
1
2

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying, plus
extra for drizzling
gm rice flour
tsp each ground coriander and cumin
coral trout (1.5kg), cleaned, scored
tbsp fish sauce
tsp caster sugar
Juice of 2 limes
tbsp sesame oil
Thinly sliced spring onions and mIxed
Asian micro herbs (see note), to serve
SAMBAL BELACAN

20
5
3
5
2

gm (4cm piece) belacan (see note)
long red chillies
red shallots, coarsely chopped
garlic cloves
lemongrass stalks

1 For sambal, heat a non-stick frying pan
over medium heat and drizzle with a little
oil. Add belacan; pan-roast, turning until
fragrant (3 minutes each side). Transfer
to a food processor with remaining
ingredients and process to a rough paste;
set aside.
2 For coral trout, place flour and spices
in a large bowl, season to taste and toss
to combine. Add coral trout and dust to
coat, shaking off excess. Fill a large wok
(large enough to fit trout) half full with oil
and heat to 170˚C. Fry trout, carefully
turning occasionally, or until lightly
golden and cooked through (10-12
minutes). Remove from oil and drain
on paper towel; reserve 2½ tbsp oil.

3 Heat reserved oil in a large clean wok
over medium heat; cook sambal, stirring
frequently, until fragrant (8-10 minutes).
Stir in 250ml water with fish sauce, sugar
and lime juice; season to taste. It should
be equally salty, sweet, sour and spicy.
Adjust balance of flavours if necessary.
4 To serve, heat sesame oil in a small
pan over medium-high heat until almost
smoking. Spoon three-quarters of
sambal on a large plate and top with
coral trout. Scatter with spring onion
and herbs; drizzle fish with hot sesame
oil and serve with remaining sambal.
Note Belacan is a shrimp paste available
from Asian grocers. MIxed Asian micro
herbs are available from select
supermarkets and grocers. If unavailable,
substitute full-sized herbs.

Mango and crab kerabu
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 25 MINS

Kerabu is an umbrella term used in the Malay community for a refreshing salad with
a spicy and funky dressing, often made with chicken feet. This version uses crab
meat for a fresh, summery touch.

350 gm freshly cooked crab meat
(see note)
5 spring onions, thinly sliced
2 green mangoes, shredded on
a mandolin
2 birdseye chillies, thinly sliced
1 small Lebanese cucumber, seeds
removed, shredded on a mandolin
1 small carrot, shredded on a mandolin
¼ cup each (firmly packed) coriander
and mint leaves, coarsely chopped
Sliced long red chillies, to serve
DRESSING

2 tbsp each lime juice and fish sauce
2 tbsp Malaysian palm sugar
(gula melaka)
1 tbsp sesame oil

1 For dressing, place ingredients in
a bowl, season to taste and stir to
combine; set aside.
2 For kerabu, place ingredients in
a large bowl with half dressing, season
to taste and toss gently to combine.
3 To serve, transfer salad to a large
serving bowl or plate, drizzle with
remaining dressing and scatter with
chilli; serve immediately.
Note Cooked crab meat is available from
select supermarkets and fishmongers.
If unavailable, substitute cooked prawns
or lobster. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

91

Ayam Percik

Malaysian-style spicy
roast chicken
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME
20 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS MARINATING)

Originating from Kelantan on the east
coast of the Malay Peninsula, this is
a traditional chicken dish that is cooked
over low heat. It has an aromatic
charred flavour and a spicy gravy.

8 chicken thigh cutlets (190gm each)
1½ tsp each caster sugar, ground chilli,
turmeric and coriander
125 ml (½ cup) vegetable oil
4 reserved lemongrass tops, bruised
2 tbsp tamarind purée
250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk
2 tbsp brown sugar
Micro coriander, to serve
LEMONGRASS AND CHILLI PASTE

4 lemongrass stalks, white part only,
coarsely chopped, tops reserved
5 each garlic cloves and golden
shallots, coarsely chopped
3 long red chillies, coarsely chopped
30 gm ginger, coarsely chopped
5 candlenuts or macadamias,
coarsely chopped
1 Place chicken in a large bowl. Sprinkle
over combined sugar and spices. Drizzle
with 2 tbsp oil, season to taste and toss
to combine. Cover; refrigerate for at least
30 minutes, or overnight.
2 For lemongrass and chilli paste, place
ingredients in a food processor and
process to a rough paste.
3 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large, ovenproof
frying pan over medium heat. Sear
chicken, turning occasionally, until
browned (4-6 minutes); transfer to
a large plate. Add remaining oil, paste,
lemongrass tops and tamarind to pan;
cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant
(3-4 minutes); stir in 200ml water and
coconut milk and brown sugar; bring
to the boil.
4 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180˚C.
Add chicken to tamarind mixture; bake,
uncovered, until chicken is cooked (30
minutes). To serve, transfer to a serving
bowl and scatter with micro coriander.
92

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Nasi ulam

Malaysian rice salad
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET //
PREP TIME 20 MINS

Originally from North Malaysia (though
some argue it’s from Indonesia), nasi
ulam is a herbaceous rice salad loaded
with wild herbs, dried shrimp, toasted
grated coconut (kerisik), shallots and
spices. This zingy retake dials up the
freshness. Enjoy it on its own or as
a side dish with fried fish or chicken.

225 gm (1½ cups) cooked basmati rice,
cooled (see note)
1 cup each (loosely packed) Thai basil,
coriander and mint leaves, shredded
3 makrut lime leaves, cut into julienne
1 lemongrass stalk, white part only,
finely chopped
2½ tbsp finely chopped chives
2½ tbsp each roasted chopped peanuts
and toasted shredded coconut
Micro red vein sorrel and spicy radish
DRESSING

1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp finely grated ginger
1 tbsp fish sauce
Juice of 2 limes
½ tsp chilli flakes
1 For dressing, combine ingredients
in a bowl and season to taste.
2 Place rice, shredded herbs, makrut
lime, lemongrass, chives, peanuts and
coconut in a large bowl with half of the
dressing, season and toss to combine.
3 To serve, transfer to a large seving
bowl and drizzle with remaining
dressing. Scatter with micro red vein
sorrel and spicy radish.
Note You will need 130gm uncooked
rice to yield 225gm cooked. ➤

Duck sang choi bau
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)

Cupped by a crisp lettuce leaf, a good sang choi bau needs to be sweet, salty and crunchy. The addition of cranberries
here works well with duck while adding a touch of auspicious red for the Lunar New Year.

4 duck breasts (200gm each)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
15 gm (½ cup) dried shiitake mushrooms,
soaked in boiling water for 20
minutes, drained, finely chopped
6 water chestnuts, finely chopped
2 tbsp dried cranberries, coarsely
chopped
3 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus
extra, to serve
½ birdseye chilli, finely chopped
Toasted sesame seeds and witlof
leaves, to serve
SAUCE

2
1½
1
2
1

tbsp beef stock
tbsp oyster sauce
tbsp each soy sauce and hoisin sauce
tsp caster sugar
tsp finely grated ginger

1 For sauce, place ingredients in a
small bowl, season to taste and stir
to combine; set aside.
2 For duck fat, remove skin from duck
and reserve, then finely chop duck
breast. Place skin in a heavy-based
saucepan over low-medium heat. Cook
until skin is golden and fat is rendered
(10-12 minutes). Strain through a fine
sieve into a heatproof bowl.
3 Heat 2½ tbsp duck fat in a large frying
pan over high heat. Add minced duck,
garlic, mushrooms and water chestnuts;
cook, stirring until duck is lightly
browned (5-6 minutes). Add cranberries,
spring onion and chilli; cook, stirring
occasionally, until onion is softened (3
minutes). Stir in sauce; cook until heated

through and combined (4 minutes);
season to taste.
4 To serve, transfer duck mixture to
a serving bowl and scatter with sesame
seeds and extra spring onion. Serve with
witlof on the side.
Note Any leftover duck fat can be stored
in the refrigerator in an airtight container
for up to 3 months.

Burghul pudding
with lime and palm
sugar syrup
SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A BANQUET //
PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS

370 gm (2 cups) coarse burghul, rinsed
(see note)
400 ml coconut milk
200 ml coconut cream, plus extra to serve
2 pandan leaves, tied in a knot
(see note)
100 gm finely grated Malaysian palm
sugar (gula melaka; see note)
Sliced mango and toasted shredded
coconut, to serve
LIME PALM SUGAR SYRUP

300 gm Malaysian palm sugar
(gula melaka)
2 pandan leaves, tied in a knot
Juice of 3 limes
1 For sugar syrup, place ingredients
with 125ml water in a saucepan over
high heat. Bring to the boil, reduce heat
to medium and simmer until syrupy
(8-10 minutes). Stir in ½ tsp sea salt
flakes and cool to room temperature;
stand until ready to serve.
2 Combine burghul, coconut milk and
cream, pandan leaves, 250ml water and
palm sugar in a saucepan. Bring to the
boil over high heat, then reduce heat
to low; simmer, stirring frequently, until
bulghur is tender (20 minutes); adding
more coconut milk if required.
3 To serve, divide pudding among
bowls, drizzle with extra coconut cream
and lime palm sugar syrup. Top with
mango and toasted coconut.
Note Coarse burghul, or bulgur,
is produced from wheat berries and is
available from specialty food shops and
select supermarkets. Pandan leaves and
gula melaka are available from Asian
grocers; if gula melaka is unavailable,
substitute another palm sugar. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

95

Southern rock
lobster with
Cantonese garlic
butter and
longevity noodles

104

UN

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res some o

Photography MARK ROPER

Styling LEE BLAYLOCK

Words MICHAEL HARDEN

96

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Pacific oysters with
sea treasures

p

98

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

97

V

ictor Liong loves celebrating Lunar New Year, but he rarely gets the
chance to go all out. It’s his own fault really because, by running one of
Melbourne’s most popular and lauded Chinese restaurants Lee Ho Fook,
it means he’s busy helping other people have a good time. Still, he gets to
celebrate by osmosis as “people get together to recap the year that’s just passed, see
in the new year and do that with a lot of convivial drinking and feasting”.
“Lunar New Year is a little more significant for Chinese people outside of
China,” he says. “They hold onto the traditions tighter because it’s a tie to the
culture they’ve left behind. When I do celebrate in Australia, it’s all about what
would Mum cook. It’s special because any other day I don’t feel I need to be more
Chinese but Lunar New Year makes me connect with the heritage and culture.”
For Liong, there are some non-negotiables for any Lunar New Year feast worthy
of the name. In these recipes, all of those ingredients are accounted for.
“There has to be a whole fish,” he says. “There also must be prawns or lobster
because eating prawns is a happiness thing (a lobster is known as a dragon prawn).
There must also be noodles, because they symbolise longevity and then something
red for luck. Each family has their own thing and ours is a whole roast chicken,
which is why I’ve added the spatchcock recipe, as a nod to my dad.”
The recipes have been designed as a banquet and while Liong isn’t expecting
everyone to attempt all of them, he’s included shortcuts – like buying a roast duck
from Chinatown – to make banquet life easier. Even if you just select a few recipes
“you’ll still have a very nice lunch and get the new year off to an auspicious start”.

Pacific oysters with sea treasures
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS INFUSING, MARINATING)

“An opulent, easy starter that showcases the bounty of local seafood in the summer
when Lunar New Year is celebrated here,” says Victor Liong. “I use Pacific oysters
because the shells are cup-shaped and hold ingredients easily. This goes perfectly
with Champagne and good tidings.” Begin this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p97

Rock salt, to serve
16 Pacific oysters, freshly shucked
12 scallops, roe removed, quartered
Ocean trout roe, shiso fumi furikake
(see note), finely chopped chives,
and julienned ginger, to serve
GINGER VINAIGRETTE

125
100
4
2

ml (½ cup) rice vinegar
gm sugar syrup (see note)
cm piece dried kombu (optional)
tsp finely grated ginger
WHITE SOY MARINADE

60 ml (¼ cup) white soy sauce
2 tsp caster sugar
¾ tsp rice vinega r
1 For ginger vinaigrette, place
ingredients in a bowl with 60ml water
and stir to combine; refrigerate
98

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

overnight. Strain through a fine sieve,
discard solids and reserve vinaigrette.
2 For white soy marinade, place
ingredients in a bowl with 100ml water,
and whisk until sugar dissolves. Add
scallops, toss to coat and stand
to marinate for 10 minutes; drain.
3 Cover a large serving plate with rock
salt and arrange oysters. Divide scallops
among oysters and drizzle each oyster
with ginger vinaigrette. Spoon over trout
roe and scatter with shiso seasoning and
chives. Serve with ginger to the side.
Note For sugar syrup, bring equal parts
sugar and water to the boil to dissolve
sugar; cool. Keep refrigerated in an
airtight container for 3 months. Shiso
fumi furikake is available from Asian and
Japanese grocers.

Festive duck salad
with sweet plum
and yuzu

p

100

Festive duck salad with sweet plum and yuzu
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

“This is a perfect celebration dish, full of vibrant colour, texture and flavour,” says Liong. “In some ways it’s like a coleslaw with
duck tossed through it. Do yourself a favour and buy a duck from Chinatown – the result will be better and you’ll have more time
and energy to celebrate.” Pictured p99

200
1
1
30
1
1

gm daikon
each small carrot and cucumber
spring onion
gm pickled red cabbage
cup (loosely packed) coriander leaves
Chinese roast duck, meat removed
from frame, sliced

FRIED GARNISH

½ small taro (100gm), peeled, cut into
julienne, rinsed and drained
50 gm wonton wrapper, cut into
1cm squares
20 gm dried rice vermicelli
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

ASIAN CRUNCHY CRUMBLE

2 tbsp roasted peanuts,
coarsely chopped
1 tbsp each crisp fried shallots
and crisp fried garlic
2 tsp sesame seeds, toasted
¼ tsp caster sugar
SWEET PLUM AND YUZU DRESSING

90 gm plum sauce
1 tsp yuzu or lemon juice (see note)
1 tsp each light soy sauce
and sesame oil

1 For Asian crunchy crumble, place all
ingredients in a small bowl, season to
taste and toss to combine.
2 For dressing, place all ingredients in
a small bowl with 1 tbsp water, whisk to
combine and season to taste; set aside.
3 For fried garnish, fill a large wok
one-third full with oil and heat over high
heat to 160˚C. Dry taro well and deep-fry
until golden and crisp (6-8 minutes);
remove with a slotted spoon, drain on

paper towel and season. Increase
temperature to 180˚C and deep-fry in
separate batches, wonton (2 minutes)
and vermicelli (10 seconds) until wontons
are gold and crisp and vermicelli is crisp
and puffed. Remove with a slotted spoon
and drain on paper towel; season.
4 Cut daikon, carrot, cucumber and
spring onion into julienne. Place with
cabbage and coriander in a large bowl
with Asian crunchy crumble and half
dressing; toss to combine.
5 To serve, transfer salad to a large
serving plate and scatter with fried
garnish. Serve with sliced duck and
remaining dressing on the side.
Note Yuzu juice is available from
Japanese and Asian grocers.

Drunken spatchcock with jellyfish, Shaoxing wine and ginger
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, STANDING)

“Drunken dishes are a hallmark of Shanghainese and Cantonese cooking,” says Liong. “The jellyfish adds an interesting textural
contrast to the silken poultry. Jellyfish is easy to find and comes ready-dressed in a packet. It’s a recipe that can be prepared ahead
of time and served cold, preferably with a textural Italian white like vermentino.”

160
25
2
2

ml (2⁄3 cup) Shaoxing rice wine
gm ginger, thinly sliced
spring onions, cut into 5cm lengths
spatchcock (500gm each)
Sesame oil, for drizzling
DRUNKEN MARINADE

400
100
50
2
20

gm Shaoxing rice wine
gm white soy sauce (see note)
gm caster sugar
tbsp dried goji berries
gm ginger, plus extra to serve
JELLYFISH

150 gm (1 packet) rehydrated jellyfish,
drained, cut into rough 2cm pieces
(see note)
3 tsp caster sugar
2 tsp each sesame oil and chilli oil
1 long red chilli, seeds removed
and finely diced
1 tsp chicken bouillon powder
½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder

100

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 To poach spatchcocks, place 2 litres
water with 25gm sea salt, wine, ginger
and spring onions in a saucepan and
bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce
heat to low and simmer gently to infuse
(15 minutes). Return to the boil and
using tongs and taking care, dunk
spatchcocks, three times (this allows the
cavity to fill completely with water and
disperse of any air). Submerge
spatchcocks in broth and return to
a simmer. Remove from heat and cover
with a tight-fitting lid; stand until cooked
through (20-25 minutes). Remove
spatchcocks from broth and submerge
in an ice bath for 2 minutes; drain and
pat dry.
2 To marinate spatchcock, place
ingredients for marinade in a bowl,
season and stir to combine. Cut
spatchcock in half lengthways through

the breastplate and backbone; remove
backbone and discard, then place in
marinade, turning to coat. Cover and
refrigerate (4-6 hours).
3 For jellyfish, place ingredients
in a bowl, season and toss to combine.
4 To serve, cut chicken thigh and wings
into smaller pieces, thinly slice breast
and place around the edge of a large
platter. Spoon jellyfish into the middle
of the spatchcocks and spoon over
marinade; scatter with extra ginger and
drizzle with sesame oil.
Note White soy sauce is available from
Asian, Chinese and Japanese grocers. ➤

Steamed snapper with salted chilli, black beans, and preserved lemon
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS

“A whole fish is a must on the Lunar New Year banquet table because it symbolises bringing excess from the old year into the new,”
says Liong. “I love this recipe because the fish is covered with this delicious red condiment and red is auspicious and lucky. Drink
a bright, fresh gewürztraminer with this one.”

100 ml vegetable oil
2 large long red chillies, seeds
removed, finely chopped
2½ tbsp salted black beans, rinsed,
drained, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp finely grated ginger
100 ml Shaoxing rice wine
60 gm mild salted pickled chillies
(see note)
1 preserved lemon, finely chopped
1 kg snapper, cleaned, head removed,
butterflied, deboned (see note)
Coriander leaves and julienned
spring onions, to serve
CRISP GARLIC OIL

12 garlic cloves (50gm), coarsely
chopped
100 ml vegetable oil
SOY DRESSING

125 ml (½ cup) light soy sauce
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tsp rice vinegar

1 For salted chilli, black beans, and
preserved lemon condiment, heat oil,
red chilli, beans, garlic and ginger in
a large wok over medium heat. Cook,
stirring frequently, until mixture begins
to catch on the base of wok (4-6 minutes).
Deglaze wok with wine, scraping base
of wok with wooden spoon until mixed
through. Remove from heat and stir
through pickled chillies and lemon.
2 For crisp garlic oil, rinse garlic under
cold water, drain well in a fine sieve and
pat dry with paper towel. Heat oil in a
saucepan until 120˚C; add garlic and
cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is
crisp and light golden (15 minutes). Strain
through a fine sieve into a heatproof
bowl, reserving garlic and oil separately.
Allow oil to cool to room temperature
then stir garlic back into oil; set aside
at room temperature.
3 For soy dressing, place ingredients in
a bowl, season and whisk to combine.

4 To cook snapper, set a large steamer
over a wok filled one-third full with water
over high heat and bring to a rapid boil.
Place snapper on a large heatproof plate
skin-side up and spread over two-thirds
condiment. Place in steamer and cover
with lid, steam until the fish is cooked
(20-25 minutes). Drain off excess
moisture that has pooled on plate. Spoon
over soy dressing and drizzle with crisp
garlic oil. Scatter with coriander and
spring onions. Serve with remaining
condiment and broccolini with onion oil
and shallot oyster sauce (see below) on
the side.
Note Salted pickled chillies are available
from Asian grocers. Ask your fishmonger
to butterfly and debone snapper.

Broccolini with onion oil and shallot oyster sauce
SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

“The condiments served with this simple side dish can be best friends with most things when it comes time for a midweek
meal,” says Liong. “The onion oil makes for amazing flavour in rice dishes and the shallot oyster sauce is a less intense pantry
staple than straight oyster sauce. Blanch or barbecue the broccolini for best results. Asparagus, when in season, makes a great
substitute for the broccolini.”

3 bunches broccolini, trimmed
SHALLOT OYSTER SAUCE

1½ tbsp vegetable oil
2 golden shallots, thinly sliced
100 gm oyster sauce
SOY DRESSING

20 gm caster sugar
2 tsp light soy sauce
¾ tsp dark soy sauce
ONION OIL

160 ml (2⁄3 cup) vegetable oil
3 golden shallots, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp light soy sauce

1 For shallot oyster sauce, heat oil in
a small non-stick frying pan over
low-medium heat. Add shallots and
cook, stirring frequently, until lightly
caramelised (8 minutes). Stir in oyster
sauce and bring to a simmer (1 minute);
remove from heat, cool completely then
blend until smooth.
2 For soy dressing, place ingredients in
a small bowl with 100ml water and whisk
to combine.
3 For onion oil, place oil and shallots
in a small heavy-based frying pan over
medium heat; cook, stirring frequently,

until shallots are lightly golden (4-5
minutes). Transfer to
a heatproof bowl and allow to cool;
residual heat will continue to cook
shallots; stir in soy sauce.
4 Blanch broccolini in boiling water
for 3 minutes then drain. Place in a large
bowl with shallot oyster sauce and toss
to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl,
drizzle with dressing and onion oil and
serve immediately.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

103

Southern rock lobster with Cantonese garlic butter and longevity noodles
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS REFRESHING)

“The rock lobster is a Cantonese banquet staple,” says Liong. “The ‘dragon prawn’ is said to bring strength, fortitude and good luck
in the new year. It’s a great showpiece. The garlic butter is my version of my favourite sauce at Golden Century.” Pictured p96

1.5 kg green southern rock lobster,
dispatched humanely (see note)
400 gm e-fu noodles (see note)
Cornflour, for dusting
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Finely chopped chives and crisp
chilli, to serve
GARLIC BUTTER SAUCE

400 gm cold unsalted butter, cut into
2cm pieces
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp finely grated ginger
100 ml chicken stock
75 ml Shaoxing rice wine
2 tbsp each oyster and white soy sauce
1 tsp caster sugar
60 gm cornflour, mixed with 60ml cold
water (see note)
1 For lobster, three-quarter fill a large
stock pot (to fit lobster) with water and
bring to the boil. Add lobster, return to the
boil and blanch (5 minutes). Remove from

heat and refresh in iced water to cool
(15 minutes); drain. Halve lengthways,
remove tomalley; reserve. Remove tail
meat, cut into 2cm pieces; set aside.
Wash shells and drain; reserve.
2 For noodles, cook noodles in a large
saucepan of boiling water until just soft
(1-2 minutes); drain and rinse.
3 For garlic butter sauce, heat a large
wok over high heat. Add 225 gm butter
and cook until butter foams (1 minute).
Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring
continuously, until fragrant (30 seconds).
Add stock, wine, sauces, and sugar;
season and bring mixture to the boil. Stir
in kuzu mixture and cook, stirring until
thickened (1-2 minutes). Reduce heat
to medium and whisk in remaining cold
butter; season and keep warm.
4 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Place empty
lobster shells on a large oven tray and
bake until warmed through (15 minutes).
5 Fill a wok one-third full of vegetable oil.

Place over high heat and heat to 180˚C.
Dust lobster pieces in cornflour and shake
off excess. Deep-fry lobster, in batches, if
necessary, until just cooked and fine crust
forms (2 minutes); drain on paper towel.
6 Place two-thirds garlic butter sauce in
a saucepan over medium heat; add
noodles and bring to a simmer. Cook,
stirring occasionally until warmed through
(2 minutes).
7 Transfer noodles to a platter and top
with lobster shells. Place lobster meat in
remaining sauce; stir to coat then spoon
into shells; drizzle with remaining sauce
from pan; scatter with chives and serve
with chilli.
Note RSPCA Australia’s advice for killing
lobster humanely is to render it insensible
by chilling it in freezer for half an hour. Kill
it quickly by cutting through the centreline
of the head, thorax and abdomen with
a large sharp knife. E-fu noodles (or yi-fu
noodles) are available from Asian grocers.

Rose tea and red fruit trifle with vanilla cream and osmanthus
SERVES 8 AS A BANQUET // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS MACERATING, SETTING, COOLING)

“This trifle is on our menu at Lee Ho Fook at the moment and the colour makes it a must for your new year banquet,” says Liong.
“I like this one because it’s a lovely Chinese-Australian hybrid that combines traditional Chinese flavours of tea and almonds with
a summer Aussie dessert classic.”

110
2
1
10

gm (½ cup) caster sugar
tbsp hibiscus tea
tbsp each rosehip and jasmine tea
gold-strength gelatine leaves,
softened in cold water for 10 minutes
Raspberry sorbet, rose petals,
osmanthus (see note), gold leaf, to serve
RED FRUITS

125 gm strawberries, cut into 1cm pieces
125 gm raspberries
2 tsp pomegranate vinegar (see note)
CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES

200
2
4
225

gm caster sugar
tbsp Chinese almonds (see note)
egg whites (about 120gm)
gm almond meal
VANILLA CREAM

500 gm thickened cream
165 gm caster sugar
2 tsp vanilla bean paste
104

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Place 1 litre water in a saucepan with
sugar and teas over high heat. Bring to
the boil; remove from heat. Squeeze
excess water from gelatine; stir into tea
mixture. Strain mixture through fine sieve
into a 1.5 litre container with lid;
refrigerate until set (6-8 hours). When
ready to serve, break up jelly with fork.
2 For red fruits, place ingredients in
a non-reactive container with lid; stir
to combine; macerate in fridge (4 hours).
3 For cookies, preheat oven to 160˚C
fan-forced. Grease and line oven tray with
baking paper. Place sugar and Chinese
almonds in a high-speed blender and
blend to a fine powder. Place egg whites
in a large bowl and whisk until foamy; stir
in sugar and almond mixture with almond
meal until a smooth paste forms.
Spread mixture out over lined tray until it

is about 1.5cm thick. Bake until lightly
golden and just set (15-18 minutes). Cool
completely on a wire rack and tear into
bite-sized pieces. Store in an airtight
container until ready to serve.
4 For vanilla cream, place cream, sugar
and vanilla paste in a bowl; whisk until firm
peaks form. Place in a piping bag with star
nozzle; refrigerate until ready to serve.
5 To assemble, place jelly in a bowl with
fruits and stir to combine; divide among
chilled glasses and pipe over vanilla
cream; top with a scoop of raspberry
sorbet. Scatter with Chinese cookies, rose
petals, osmanthus and gold leaf.
Note Chinese almonds and osmanthus
are available from Asian grocers.
Pomegranate vinegar is available from
specialty food shops; if unavailable,
substitute raspberry vinegar. 

“I like this because it’s a lovely
Chinese-Australian hybrid that
combines Chinese flavours of tea
and almonds with an Aussie classic.”

Radish cake with
Chinese sausage

p

109

Bundles of JOY
In her new cookbook, Bao & Dim Sum, author
and culinary stylist ORATHAY SOUKSISAVANH
shares her best bite-sized recipes.

Photography CHARLOTTE LASCÈVE

Pork ginger
dumplings with
XO sauce

p

111
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

107

W

e cooked a lot in our
house, from morning until
night, but we never used
to make dumplings. They
were a treat reserved for family meals out.
That was our Sunday lunchtime outing,
instead of church.We would reel off the
numbers of the dishes we wanted to order.
Har gao, xiu mai, char siu bao… these
names punctuated my childhood years.
It wasn’t much later, when I began
writing cookery books, that I started
badgering my mother to test out all sorts
of recipes. Recipes we loved eating but
never made ourselves. These are the
recipes I wanted to put down in writing as
part of our family’s culinary heritage, and
which I am sharing with you now.

108

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Fried prawn dumplings
MAKES 24 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2 MINS

FILLING

½ onion
50 gm water chestnuts or ½ carrot
300 gm raw prawns, defrosted and
shelled
1 egg white
1 tbsp Maïzena
1 tsp sugar
1 large tbsp oyster sauce
PASTRY

1 packet of wonton pastry wrappers
SPICY MAYONNAISE

1
1
1
1
150
50
1

egg white
heaped tsp mustard
garlic clove
tbsp lemon juice
ml neutral oil
ml (3 tbsp) chilli oil
litre cooking oil, for cooking

1 For filling, chop onion and finely dice
water chestnuts or carrot. Chop half the
prawns into small pieces. Mix the rest of
the prawns with the egg white, Maïzena,
sugar, oyster sauce and a pinch of salt.
The mixture should turn slightly sticky.
Pour the filling into a bowl and add
the onion, remaining prawns and water
chestnuts or carrot. Season with pepper
and stir. You can heat up a little of the
filling in the microwave for 15 seconds to
check the seasoning; adjust if necessary.
2 To fold dumplings, fill a bowl with
water. Separate the wonton pastry
wrappers. Dollop 1 tbsp of filling onto
the centre of each wrapper. Moisten
the edges, join together two opposite
corners (diagonally) and close like a bag
(pulling the sides of the dough towards
the centre and pressing down on the

dough with your thumb to seal). Set
aside on a dish lined with baking paper.
3 For spicy mayonnaise, in a bowl,
combine egg white, mustard, pressed
garlic clove, lemon juice and a pinch
of salt. Begin whisking using an electric
whisk. When the mixture starts to
thicken, pour in the neutral oil a little
at a time, whisking constantly. Wait until
the oil has been absorbed before adding
more. Once the mayonnaise has set, add
the chilli oil, continuing to whisk. Taste
and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Set aside in the refrigerator.
4 For cooking, heat oil in a deep frying
pan until it reaches 180°C. Drop a few
dumplings in and brown for 2 minutes.
Pat dry on paper towels. Repeat with
several batches. Serve straight away
with the spicy mayonnaise.

Radish cake with Chinese sausage
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS SOAKING, CHILLING)

“In Cantonese, dim sum literally means ‘touch your heart’,” says Souksisavanh. These golden bites do just that. Pictured p106

800
100
20
2
2
4
1

gm white radish
gm rice flour
gm dried shiitake mushrooms
tbsp Maïzena
Chinese sausages
spring onions, chopped
level tsp sugar
Black pepper
Vegetable oil, for cooking

1 Rehydrate shiitake mushrooms in a
bowl of hot water, ideally the day before.
2 Peel and grate the daikon, then brown
in a large dry frying pan, stirring
occasionally. This will allow some of the
water to evaporate. Transfer to a bowl
and leave to cool.
3 Blanch sausages in boiling water for
3 minutes then strain.

4 When the shiitake mushrooms are
soft, remove the hard parts and chop
finely. Dice the sausages. In the same
frying pan, heat up 3 tbsp oil. Brown
mushrooms and sausages for 5 minutes.
Set aside.
5 Season the radish with 1 level tsp salt
and sugar. Add generous amounts of
pepper. Add the rice flour and Maïzena
and mix well. Add the garnish
(mushrooms, sausages and spring
onions) and stir. The mixture should
be soft but not runny or hard. If it is too
runny, add a little rice flour. If it is hard,
this will mean the daikon is old, in which
case add a little water.
6 Moisten a clean, thin tea towel and
use to line a 19cm bamboo basket, or
a baking tin If you don’t have one. Steam
for 40 minutes (from the point at which
the water comes to the boil).

7 Check to see if the cake is cooked by
pricking it with a cocktail stick: the centre
should be firm. Leave to cool slightly
before turning it over to remove from the
tin. Leave to cool completely before
cutting into slices. Ideally, cover with
plastic wrap and chill overnight.
8 The next day, heat up some oil in
a frying pan. Cut the cake into 1 cm-thick
slices and brown for 3-4 minutes on each
side. Serve with some sriracha sauce.
Note You can eat the cake as soon as it
is cooked if you prefer, but traditionally it
is fried until golden brown first. ➤

Smashed cucumber
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS

This refreshing salad is a foil for a hot day. The bashing process breaks the cucumber
flesh so flavour can infiltrate.

2
6
2
1
1
25
1
30
4
3
2
2

cucumbers
coriander sprigs
spring onions (optional)
tbsp toasted sesame seeds
SAUCE
garlic clove
g fresh ginger root
small tsp Sichuan pepper and/or
1 dried chilli
gm (2½ tbsp) sugar
tbsp soy sauce
tbsp Chinkiang black rice vinegar
tbsp white rice vinegar
tbsp toasted sesame oil

1 Wash the cucumbers. Bash them with
a rolling pin, turning by 90 degrees
(quarter of a turn) each time. Cut into
pieces. Remove any seeds that come

away. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt. Stir
and leave to drain in a colander while
you make the sauce.
2 Press the garlic and finely slice the
ginger. Crush the Sichuan pepper using
a mortar and pestle or a rolling pin. If
you are adding a dried chilli pepper,
remove the seeds. In a bowl, combine
everything with the sugar, soy sauce,
vinegars and sesame oil.
3 Chop the coriander and spring
onions (if using).
4 Quickly pat cucumbers dry with
a paper towel. Transfer to a bowl.
Add the herbs and mix together.
Sprinkle with sesame seeds when
it is time to serve.

This extract from Bao &
Dim Sum by Orathay
Souksisavanh (Hardie Grant
London, $34.99) has been
reproduced with minor
GT style edits.

Pork ginger dumplings with XO sauce
MAKES 20 // PREP TIME 45 MINS //
COOK 10-12 MINS (PLUS CHILLING)

“Prepare your filling and XO sauce a day or two in advance.” says Souksisavanh. “It will taste all the better for it.” Pictured p107
FILLING

½ onion
1 garlic clove
20 gm fresh ginger root
250 gm minced pork belly or shoulder
1 level tsp sugar
2 tbsp soy sauce
PASTRY

250 gm strong white bread flour
150 ml boiling water
XO sauce, to serve (see recipe below)
1 For filling, chop the onion, press the
garlic and grate the ginger. Combine
with the minced pork and all remaining
ingredients. Season generously with

XO sauce
MAKES 1 JAR // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 1 HR
40 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)

25
60
4
5
15
3
200
15
2
3
1
100

gm dried shiitake mushrooms
gm each dried prawns and ham
shallots
large garlic cloves
gm fresh ginger root
long red chillies
ml peanut oil
gm (1 tbsp) brown sugar
tbsp oyster sauce
tbsp soy sauce
tbsp Korean chilli powder (optional)
ml Shaoxing

pepper and a pinch of salt. Set aside
in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
2 To make pastry, combine flour and
a pinch of salt in a large bowl, then make
a well in the centre. Pour in the boiling
water, stirring with a spatula or chopsticks.
When the dough starts to combine, pour
it out onto a work surface and knead for
5 minutes until it is smooth and stretchy.
3 Roll dough out into three balls. Cut
into 15gm pieces and wrap in plastic
wrap or cover with a clean tea towel.
Dust the work surface with flour and roll
out the pieces into 12cm discs. For
perfect discs use a pastry cutter. Dollop
one spoonful of filling onto the centre
of each disc. Fold into the shape of

a leaf (pinching the dough at the bottom
to create a 2cm tip then pushing the tip
inside the disc and pinching and sealing
the two side edges to form a new tip.
Continue until the final tip is sealed).
4 Arrange the dumplings in a steamer
basket lined with baking paper. When
the water comes to the boil, add the
basket and cook for 10-12 minutes.
Serve the dumplings with the XO sauce.
You can add some coriander leaves,
chopped spring onions and chopped
peanuts, if preferred.

1 The day before, soak the shiitake
mushrooms and prawns in a bowl filled
with cold water. The next day, drain and
reserve 100 ml of soaking water. Chop
shiitake and roughly chop the prawns
using a knife.
2 Slice the ham into julienne strips.
Chop the shallots, garlic and ginger.
Remove the seeds from the chillies.
Cut into big chunks.
3 Heat oil in a frying pan over a medium
heat. Add shallots, garlic and ginger.
Brown for 5 minutes, stirring, add the
prawns, mushrooms, ham and chillies.

4 Leave to simmer over a low heat for
10 minutes then add the seasonings,
wine, and the reserved soaking water.
5 Cook over a low heat for 1 hour and
30 minutes. The liquid should have
evaporated and oil should have gently
infused with the different flavours. Leave
to cool before transferring to a jar.
Note The sauce can be kept in the
refrigerator for up to 1 month. This sauce
goes wonderfully with dumplings,
noodles and white rice. Use the oil to
sauté wok dishes, such as vegetables,
prawns, meat, rice, noodles. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

111

Spicy wontons

119

Hom
e

p

r
y
e
v
i
l
e
d

Ph

oto

g ra

p hy

SA M

M
F O L A N & G I Z E M KU

A
BA R

CI

Chef KWOKLYN WAN is dishing up all your Friday night
favourites in The Complete Chinese Takeaway Cookbook.

Sweet soy
pulled chicken

p

115

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

113

I

could never have predicted as a five-year-old
running up and down the stairs in my
grandfather’s restaurant that one day I’d be
sharing so many of his recipes. It’s seriously
humbling to think that thanks to some higher
force, it was little old me who was chosen to share
my father’s and grandfather’s legacy.
If I’m honest there were times I hated working
in the restaurant. I mean, how many 14-, 15- or
16-year-old kids want to work on a Saturday night
when their mates are out gadding around town? But
this was my life, my reality, and look at me now (all
smiles). So, what once drove me crazy I now thank,
and with an open and loving heart I can honestly say
I would not change a thing. When you think of
comfort food and the dishes you ate growing up
as a Friday or Saturday night treat, these recipes are
the key to creating those dishes in your own kitchen.
For many, cooking these recipes will spark
memories of simpler times; flashbacks will flood
their minds of family evenings sat around the coffee
table and then, in walk Mum and Dad with the
takeaway. Now I’ve made you all hungry, the next
step is to get cooking. Nothing gets the old grey
matter pumping like the sights and smells of
childhood unfolding in front of your very eyes.

Sichuan-style eggplant and tofu
“Crispy coated bites of tender eggplant and springy tofu in a spicy, slightly malty
flavoured sauce,” says Kwoklyn Wan. “A perfect vegan topping to ladle over
steamed rice or toss through wide rice stick noodles.”

500
450
250
4
2
1
1
3
1
1
2½
1
175

ml (2 cups) vegetable oil, plus 1 tbsp
gm eggplants, cut into 2-3cm cubes
gm firm tofu, cut into 2cm cubes
tbsp cornflour
garlic cloves, minced
tbsp ginger, minced
chilli, finely chopped
spring onions, cut into 3cm lengths,
green and white parts separated
tsp sugar
tsp dark soy sauce
tbsp oyster sauce
tsp Chinese black vinegar
ml (¾ cup) vegetable stock (you
might need more if sauce is too thick)

1 Place the oil in a saucepan or wok and
heat to around 180°C.
2 Coat the eggplant and tofu in the

cornflour, bang off any excess and fry
them separately in batches until golden
brown. Transfer to a wire rack or plate
lined with paper towel to drain.
3 In a clean wok, add 1 tbsp oil and fry
the garlic, ginger, chilli and spring onion
whites for 20 seconds until fragrant.
Then add cooked eggplant, spring onion
greens, sugar, dark soy sauce, oyster
sauce, black vinegar and stock. Bring to
the boil and add cooked tofu. The sauce
should thicken from the cornflour on the
eggplant and tofu, but if the sauce is too
thin to begin with, continue to reduce
slightly until it thickens; if the sauce is
too thick, add a little more stock. Once
you have reached your desired
consistency, remove from the heat
and serve.

Sweet soy pulled chicken
“Perfect served in a freshly steamed bao or even a freshly baked baguette, with
soy-pickled cucumber and shredded lettuce; close your eyes and with a mouthful of
this sweet, succulent chicken, let the flavours transport you to the bustling street
markets of Hong Kong,” says Wan. Pictured p113

2 skinless and boneless chicken
breasts
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) rice vinegar
160 gm (½ cup) blackberry jam
1 tsp celery salt
1 tbsp chilli flakes
120 ml (½ cup) light soy sauce
50 gm (¼ cup) sugar
375 ml (1½ cups) water

1 Put all ingredients into a saucepan
that has a tight-fitting lid. Bring to the
boil and then turn down to a low simmer
and place lid firmly on. After 45 minutes
remove lid and bring back to the boil.
Once liquid has reduced by two-thirds,
remove from heat and allow to cool for
15 minutes.
2 Carefully shred chicken, then mix with
remaining cooking liquid and serve. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

115

Honey-glazed chilli wings
“Sweet and spicy, sticky and juicy – it is going to get messy but what’s not to love
about these wings,” says Wan. “These are the perfect ‘movie night in’ nibbles!”

500
8
4
1
2
2
¼

gm chicken wings
tbsp sweet chilli sauce
tbsp runny honey
tbsp dark soy sauce
tbsp light soy sauce
tbsp vegetable oil
cup toasted sesame seeds

1 Put all the ingredients, except toasted
sesame seeds, into a large bowl. Use
your hands to massage the marinade
into the chicken, making sure everything
is well coated. Cover and place in the
refrigerator for 2 hours.

116

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

2 Preheat oven to 170°C.
3 Toss the chicken again in the
marinade before tipping the wings and
sauce on to a baking tray. Bake in the
oven for 20 minutes, then flip the wings
over and baste in the marinade. Cook
for a further 20 minutes, flip again and
baste one last time. Increase the oven
temperature to 200°C, then return the
tray to the oven for a final 10 minutes.
4 Once the marinade has achieved its
sticky caramelisation, remove wings
from the oven, transfer to a serving
plate, sprinkle with toasted sesame
seeds and serve piping hot.

Satay chicken
udon noodles
“Even I was surprised at just how quick
this dish was to cook; no sooner had
I started the dish, than it was on my
plate and being scoffed,” says Wan.
“Washing up consisted of just my wok
and the wooden spoon I used. Chewy
noodles, juicy chicken, crunchy onions
and peppers smothered in a rich spicy
satay sauce. Lovely!”

2 tbsp oil (vegetable or coconut)
2 chicken breasts, cut into
bite-sized pieces
1 white onion, cut into strips
1 green (bell) pepper, deseeded
and cut into strips
1 tsp salt
Pinch of white pepper
4 tbsp satay dipping sauce (or use
2-3 tbsp satay paste, to taste)
300 gm straight-to-wok udon noodles
1 Heat a large non-stick wok over
a medium-high heat and add the oil.
Add the chicken and allow to brown
on one side, then stir in the onion and
green pepper for 1-2 minutes to soften.
2 Season with the salt and pepper,
then stir in the satay dipping sauce,
along with 250ml (1 cup) water. Once all
the ingredients are well combined in the
sauce, add the noodles and cook for
2 minutes, stirring frequently to separate
the noodles. Serve immediately.
Note Add a sprinkle of crushed salted
peanuts just before serving to add
a lovely crunch. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

117

This extract from The
Complete Chinese Takeaway
Cookbook by Kwoklyn Wan
(Quadrille, $49.99) has been
reproduced with minor
GT style edits.

Spicy wontons
MAKES 20

“Taking inspiration from the Sichuan province, my sweet, savoury, spicy and garlicky sauce is a deliciously rich and tingly dressing
for these juicy and delicately flavoured dumplings,” says Wan. Pictured p112
FOR THE WONTONS

170
3
1
1
1
2
1
20
1

gm minced pork
spring onions, finely chopped
tsp sesame oil
tbsp Shaoxing wine
tsp dark soy sauce
tsp light soy sauce
tsp cornflour
wonton wrappers
egg, beaten
FOR THE SPICY SAUCE

1
4
3
3
1
1

tsp black rice vinegar
tbsp Chinese chilli oil
tbsp light soy sauce
garlic cloves, minced
tbsp honey
tsp sesame oil

1 Place all of the wonton ingredients
(except the wonton wrappers and beaten
egg) plus a pinch of salt and pinch of
white pepper into a food processor and
whizz for 30-45 seconds until everything
is chopped finely and well mixed.
2 In another bowl, mix the sauce
ingredients together and set to one side.
3 To assemble the dumplings, angle
a wonton wrapper on your hand so that
it faces you like a diamond. With your
fingertips or a spoon, spread a thin layer
of beaten egg along the top two edges
of the wrapper. Place 1 tsp filling into the
centre of the wrapper. Fold the bottom
tip to the top tip to form a triangle and
pinch along the edges, sealing the

wonton and squeezing out the air to
securely enclose the filling. Then fold
the two corners together to create an
ingot shape, brushing with a little more
egg to help them stick together. Repeat
until all of the filling has been used.
4 Bring a large saucepan of water to
the boil, then drop your wontons into
the water in batches of 6-8 and cook
for 2-3 minutes. Drain and arrange on
a serving plate. Pour over your spicy
sauce and serve immediately.

Chinese egg custard tarts
“These egg tarts are usually served at the beginning of the meal with Chinese tea as you are ordering the food,” says Wan. “Twice
as sweet as other custard tarts but so moreish you’ll be diving in for seconds and thirds.”
FOR THE PASTRY

225 gm (1¾ cups) plain) flour, plus
extra for dusting
30 gm icing sugar
60 gm salted butter, chilled and grated
65 gm lard, chilled and grated
1 egg, beaten
½ tsp vanilla extract
FOR THE FILLING

50
150
2
5
½

gm (¼ cup) caster sugar
ml (2⁄3 cup) hot water
eggs
tbsp evaporated milk
tsp vanilla extract

1 Sift flour and icing sugar into a large
mixing bowl. Add butter and lard and
gently rub into the dry ingredients with
your fingertips until the mixture
resembles fine breadcrumbs.
2 Add egg and vanilla extract and mix
with a table knife, drawing the mixture
together to form a ball. Cover in plastic
wrap and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
3 Preheat oven to 200°C.
4 To make the custard filling, mix the
sugar into the hot water in a bowl until
completely dissolved. In a large bowl,
whisk eggs with evaporated milk, then
add the sugar water and vanilla extract
and mix together well. Strain the mixture
through a fine sieve into a jug – this
should remove any foam that has
formed. Set aside.

5 Roll out the dough on a lightly floured
worktop to 5mm thick (try not to handle
too much), then cut out 12 discs with
a cookie cutter slightly wider than your
muffin tray holes. Lightly press the pastry
discs into each hole using your thumbs,
starting from the bottom then up to the
sides to make even tart shells.
6 Carefully pour egg mixture into
each tart shell but don’t overfill.
7 Transfer the tarts to the middle shelf
of the preheated oven and bake for
10-15 minutes until the edges are lightly
coloured. Reduce the oven temperature
to 150°C and bake for another 10-15
minutes until custard is cooked through.
Note Delicious eaten warm but will keep
in the refrigerator for a day or two. (If you
can resist that long!) 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

119

FEBRUARY

To Asia, with love

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

The art of sharing, a five-star journey through
Vietnam, a chef ’s guide to Seoul, your Singapore
hot list, and a new designer hotel in Victoria.

Quy Nho’n,
Vietnam

p

124
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

121

The art of... sharing

Multiculturalism means more celebrations,
and ANNA HART will forever be grateful to
Singapore for sharing Lunar New Year with her.

The art of travel

ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

O

Anna is a travel
and lifestyle
journalist, and
author of the
travel memoir
Departures.
@annadothart

ne of the best gifts my mum and dad
the Northern European calendar. In Ireland, there
gave me as a child was seven years in
wasn’t much to look forward to after Christmas
Singapore. We moved to Joo Chiat
until Easter. (With all due respect to the saint,
from Belfast when I was five, my father
St Patrick’s Day is crap until you can drink.)
accepting a job as an interim pastor at Katong
Now, instead of grey rainy February days,
Presbyterian Church, and my mum working as an
we had Lunar New Year, a month-long riot of red
ophthalmologist at National University Hospital.
lanterns, pomelos, lion dances, kuih kapit (love
I love my homeland, but Belfast in the 1990s was
letter biscuits), fireworks, bak kwa (sweet pork
still a conflict zone and life could feel pretty grim,
jerky), jammy ong lai pineapple tarts and ang pau
so I’m grateful that my parents inserted an
(red packets) stuffed with dollars to spend on Lego
alternative environment and culture into my
Technic sets in Toys “R” Us. My mum, very Irishly,
childhood. And what a destination they chose! It
worried that red packets would spoil us, and turn
took me time to adjust, but I loved growing up in
us into mercenary little expat brats doomed to
Singapore. I was dazzled by the shimmering glass
work in finance. She also wasn’t sure that we
and steel skyscrapers, which I thought looked like
needed glucose-laden pineapple tarts and love
something from The Jetsons, and my eyes were
letters quite so soon after the Cadbury’s selection
equally transfixed by the crumbling pastel-hued
boxes and Terry’s chocolate oranges of Christmas.
Peranakan shophouses in Joo Chiat, which
She needn’t have worried, because Lunar New
I thought looked like wedding cakes. I was soon
Year has been a decidedly positive influence on
seduced by the smells of Singapore, from potent
me. It turns out I had it right, aged five, when
frangipani lingering in the air
I decided that Lunar New Year
at night to tropical rain hitting
was an upgrade to my calendar.
Lunar
New
Year,
of
hot tarmac. But the way
Lunar New Year transforms
course, is about sharing the start to my year, boldly
Singapore really made me
feel at home, in my new
obliterating any greyness with
food. And, because
home? It was by feeding
vibrant red hues. If I failed to
Singapore
taught
me
me, exceptionally well.
make any resolutions at the
well,
I
take
the
food
Our Singaporean friends
start of January, or failed to
viewed introducing us to new
keep them, I get a second
I serve very seriously.
flavours as an urgent, crucial
chance. If I’m starting to
mission, and I’ve plainly been infected by the
succumb to intense “new year, new you” marketing
fervour with which Singaporeans seek out new
campaigns, Lunar New Year boldly obliterates any
flavours, and the gusto with which they share any
notions of self-deprivation. But most of all, Lunar
valuable culinary discoveries. Singapore’s hawker
New Year is an opportunity for me to share with
centres and coffee shops swiftly imbued me with
other people the lessons that Singapore taught me.
adventurous yet unbiased tastebuds. In Singapore,
Singaporeans shared Lunar New Year with us,
eating well is a gloriously democratic pleasure,
teaching a pale family of Irish expats a whole new
and an amazing meal could cost $5 or $500. But
way to celebrate. So to me, this celebration has
beyond the fabulous flavours, living in Singapore
always been about the art of sharing. Lunar New
taught me what food could really mean. Food
Year is about sharing hopes for the future, tossing
is every Singaporean’s love language, and as
a salad in the name of future prosperity, telling
a nervous new migrant, I feasted on the generosity,
the universe and our friends and ourselves what
openness, kindness, playfulness and curiosity
we really want. Lunar New Year is about sharing
around every table.
our good fortune, gloriously literally, by dishing
In Singapore, every mealtime is a celebration…
out cash to each other in red envelopes.
which means that actual celebrations have to really
Lunar New Year, of course, is about sharing
pull out all the stops. I was delighted to realise that
food. And, because Singapore taught me well,
growing up across two different countries meant
I take the food I serve very seriously. But Singapore
double the celebrations. This is a major win when
also taught me that food is never, ever, just about
you’re five. From the outset, Lunar New Year
the food. Lunar New Year is when I celebrate this,
immediately struck me as a major, vital upgrade to
and try to share it. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

123

Poolside at Anantara
Quy Nho’n Villas.
Opposite: the luxe
interiors of The Vietage.

Slow &

Away from the hustle of big cities, a train journey through Vietnam

ST E A DY
is a reminder of the beauty in stillness, writes HANNAH-ROSE YEE.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

125

The Vietage en route.
Below: the sit-up bar with
a view on The Vietage.

W

atching rice paddies blur into a single, blowsy swatch
of green at 78 kilometres per hour is about as effective
a meditative tool as any. I’ve tried apps, podcasts, special
tea – basically anything Gwyneth Paltrow swears by – but
nothing has worked quite as well as the six hours I spent gazing out the
window of The Vietage, a luxury train carriage from the Anantara hotel
group connecting its properties in Hô.i An and Quy Nho’n. Trees blur
into trees, reeds into reeds, water buffalo into water buffalo, as the train
ambles peacefully along. I have grand plans to do some work while
transiting but although the lights of my laptop are on, there’s nobody
home. I turn my head to the outside world and lose myself in the view.
Seventy-eight kilometres isn’t even that fast; for comparison, the bullet
trains that zip across Japan can reach a top speed of 320 kilometres per
hour. The Vietage, by contrast, is practically leisurely, like a slow walk
through the park on a Sunday morning. There’s even time for a massage,
a three-course meal and any drink your heart desires. Since I board the
train in the morning, I start with a Vietnamese coffee: filter brew shot
through with a teaspoon of condensed milk until the whole thing
is creamy and deadly sweet. I am addicted from my first mouthful.
The benefits of travelling by train are myriad and much-celebrated:
train travel emits significantly less carbon than planes, and you get to
bypass the rigmarole of airports and move from city centre to city centre
with ease. And style! There is an elegance to travelling on tracks. I am
whisked through Da Nang station and onto The Vietage by a staff member
called Binh, looking dapper in his ivory silk jacket despite the humidity
of Vietnam’s rainy season. On board, the carriage is fitted with six
spacious booths to accommodate 12 guests, all leading to a wrap-around
bar with surround views of the countryside. Those windows are the spot,
especially when the train rounds a curve on the approach into Quy
Nho’n, a coastal enclave that is one of the country’s burgeoning tourism
hotspots. Out of nowhere, amid all the endless, verdant greenery, is
a splice of white sand and the embrace of the South China Sea. It’s
better than Netflix. “You’re like me,” notes a fellow guest, as she spots my
dormant computer. “You can’t take your eyes away from the windows.” ➤

126

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from
above: the
spectacular view
from Anantara
Quy Nho’n Villas
spa; the exterior
of Anantara Quy
Nho’n beach villa.

HÔ.I AN
Hô.i An is a city of early risers. I walk out of my room at
Anantara just after dawn, in pursuit of one of those fudgy
coffees. The 93-room hotel is situated on the banks of the
Thu Bô
òn river, in plain view of the barges that chug up
and down en route to the nearby coconut groves. The
location of the palm-shrouded property couldn’t be better:
only five minutes on foot from the old town, lanternstrewn and alive at all hours of the day and night. Hô.i An
received a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 1999
and tourism in the region has exploded, even weathering
the pandemic. Today, visitor numbers are almost back to
where they were in 2019, and sure to balloon this month,
when Hô.i An celebrates Tết, Vietnam’s annual Lunar
New Year celebrations, which will see the streets lined
in cumquat trees.

128

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (QUYNH ANH NGUYEN, MARISA VEGA & FLASH PARKER).

In the morning, Hô.i An is a market city, crowded with
stalls. I weave in and out of the jumble of scooters, their
owners loading up handlebars with bags of bean sprouts,
mint and papaya. In the afternoon though, these streets are
made for eating. At dusk I meet Phuoc, a local guide who
runs Hô.i An Street Food Tours, for bún bò, a beef noodle
soup. It’s the first of 14 stops we will make over the course
of five blissful hours, a journey that snakes through the old
town with a different dish on every corner. Papaya salad
dressed with crispy dried fish, perfect orbs of steamed rice
Bánh bèo swimming in gravy, snails sucked from their shell
and garnished with cumquat juice, cao lâ
òu fermented rice
noodles with thick slices of roast pork, tapioca dumplings
shaped like a just-blossomed rose, a Hô.i An specialty.
Bún bò is Phuoc’s favourite; actually, it’s his six-year-old
son’s favourite. “We come here every morning,” Phuoc
says, dreamy-eyed as we approach the soup bubbling away
on an open fire. The broth is clear with a layer of bright
red spice swimming on top and then in charge the fresh
herbs and a squeeze of lime. Like all Vietnamese cooking,
it’s a study in balance and delicacy: slippery noodles and
big chunks of softened beef, fire and respite. Chilli fizzes
on my lips.
It’s nighttime when we reach our final destination – after
pausing for bottles of Huda beer and crème caramel doused
in iced coffee by the side of the road – and Phuoc has saved
the best for last. Bánh Mi Phuong is a Hô.i An institution.
Madam Phuong, as Phuoc reverently calls her, was a teacher
by day and sandwich maker by afternoon and well into the ➤

Clockwise from top: the pool at Anantara Hô.i An; market produce in
Hô.i An; cao lầu, a noodle dish popular in Hô.i An. Opposite, clockwise
from top: Anantara Hô.i An’s Lantern restaurant serves Vietnamese
coffee; view of Hô.i An old town from a boat on Thu Bồn river.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

129

Clockwise from above:
bún bò, a beef noodle
soup; locals at a bún bò
stand in Hoi An; Anantara
Quy Nho’n Villas spa;
fishing nets at Quy Nho’n .

night until 2002, when the late Anthony Bourdain visited her
market stall for his television series No Reservations. The springy
baguette, the lemongrass roasted pork, the slick of pâté… It was,
Bourdain said, “a symphony in a sandwich.” Phuong’s business
took off and she moved to her current digs, a bustling shopfront
on one of the old town’s turmeric-coloured streets, where her
team of 22 nimble-fingered chefs make some seven thousand
sandwiches a day.
There she is, Madam Phuong herself, resplendent in
full glam and matching jewellery, come to greet us from the
kitchen. Phuoc remembers coming to her as a boy, pockets
jangling with coins after saving up all week and cycling home
with his prize tucked into his shorts. Madam Phuong has been
retired for three years but she wants to get back on the tools
to personally make me a bánh mi, Phuoc explains, as we take
a seat inside the buzzing eatery. Well, she’s still got it. Justwarmed bread, three types of juicy pork, the kick of chilli
sauce and oil and herbs coming together with a crunch of
cucumber in perfect harmony. I’ve been eating for five hours
but I can’t stop. Perhaps all that meditating that I do on
The Vietage the following day is simply digesting.
130

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Getting
there
Multiple airlines fly to
Danang, near Hô.i An, via
Singapore, Hanoi or Ho Chi
Minh. From Danang, Quy
Nhon is a 6-hour train
journey. The Vietage starts
at $585 per person each
way. Anantara’s Hô.i An and
Quy Nho’n properties start
from $395 and $804 per
night respectively.
anantara.com

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (SUNNY VMD, VU PHAM VAN & MARIE CRISTABERN, JOYCE VILLAMOR/EYEEM) & HANNAH-ROSE YEE.

Ky Co beach in Quy Nho’n.
Right: Banh It Cham temple.

QUY NHO’N
Arriving in Quy Nho’n lands me in a coastal city almost
three times the size of Hô.i An some six hours south by
train. The region is up-and-coming, without the tourism
numbers of nearby Nha Trang, for example, but that’s
a good thing. A visit to Quy Nho’n guarantees that you can
find your own pristine beachfront to call your own or spend
a morning wandering the ancient Banh It Cham temples
without seeing another soul. It’s peaceful at Anantara Quy
Nho’n too, a 26-villa resort built into a private corner of the
coastline. At one of the highest points of the resort you’ll
find a stunning spa, perched on the clifftop and overlooking
the ocean, where waves are the soundtrack to every
treatment. Each of the villas comes with a private pool
and mine even fronts the sea. I can spot fishermen
unloading traps for crabs from my verandah.
Seafood is the specialty in the region, as to be expected,
and the best way to eat it is in a bánh xèo. Rice flour and
turmeric are mixed together to form a pancake-style base,
which is crisped up in a fry pan and topped with onions,
bean sprouts and prawns. Served sizzling at the table and
cut into small triangles, you then take a small slice and
wrap it in rice paper – local to the region – and stuff it with
herbs, lettuce and plenty of tangy nu’ó’c châ
ñm dipping sauce.
I am eating at Bánh Xèo Tôm Nhay Gia Vy
ô in downtown
Quy Nho’n with my guide Thich, who has spent the morning
taking me around the historic sites of the region. Thich is
Quy Nho’n born and raised; when we climb to the top of a
mountain to see one of the famous Banh It Cham temples,
he points out his family home on the banks of the river.

“Food in the north is too light. I can’t eat it. I always have
to ask: ‘Can I have some chilli?’” laments Thich, as he
orders us bánh xèo, vermicelli net spring rolls, and fish
cakes, to be washed down with an ice cold passionfruit
juice. This is what I came for. The best kind of fast food:
served quick and hot and gone in sixty seconds.
My last day in Vietnam begins with a storm. I had
been promised picture perfect sunrises, a peach-coloured
explosion from the horizon, but instead I have rain. I’m
not too fussed; it’s an opportunity to soak in my villa’s
enormous bathtub with a book. Later that afternoon,
though, the sky clears, which is perfect timing for the
wedding being set up on Anantara’s beachfront lawn.
I sit and watch the preparations with the hotel’s signature
cocktail, a potent mixture of lemongrass-infused vodka
and fresh orange juice that the bartender has dubbed
Vietnamese Truth Serum. And here’s the truth: I don’t
want to go home. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

131

Born & Bred

Joo-ok

SE OU L

HAN
RIVER

MOSU Seoul

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Sushi
Sunsoo

Toc Toc

Hyodo Chicken
Chicken

KO R EA N FR I E D CH I CK E N

Seoul, South Korea
From the tastiest Korean barbecue to fine dining,
chef MINGOO KANG proves the best way
into the heart of Seoul is via the belly.

K

orean temple food and fried chicken might seem like an odd
couple, but they’re both integral parts of Mingoo Kang’s world.
The celebrated chef behind Seoul tasting menu restaurant
Mingles is remixing Eastern and Western cuisines and techniques.
The result is a winning combination that saw the restaurant voted as
the best restaurant in South Korea for seven years in a row by the World’s 50
Best Restaurants awards and claim two Michelin stars. But where does he eat
when he is off duty? The answers pivot between the city's most innovative
restaurants and its most highly-prized local secrets.

W H E R E I GO TO B E I NS PI R ED
Sometimes I feel like I want to have
a moment with a chef from a different
part of Korean cuisine. Sushi Sunsoo
is representing the Korean sushi scene,
and eating at chef Choi Ji-hoon’s sushi
restaurant, seated at his counter, is an
opportunity to be inspired.

BE ST KO R E AN BA R BE CU E
If you have something to celebrate,
it should be done at Born & Bred,
the best barbecue restaurant in
Korea! This is where you can really
experience the best of Korean beef
and barbecue culture.

GUTTER CREDIT

A CHEF’S GUIDE TO...

When friends of chefs come to visit
Seoul, I take them to Hyodo Chicken.
Chef Shin Changho from Joo Ok
(another of Seoul’s two-Michelin starred
establishments) and I were involved in
the menu development and we had
a lot of fun with the recipes. And still this
place is where you can enjoy authentic
Korean chicken culture.

A chef ’s guide

Clockwise from below: the
dining room at Mingles;
a dessert at fine-diner
Mosu; its dining room; foie
gras torchon with black
garlic at Mingles. Opposite:
the neon-lit streets of Seoul.

CO NT E MPO R ARY F R EN CH
Toc Toc is the best casual restaurant in
Korea. It is a place where everyone can
enjoy amazing food and do so happily
and comfortably.

T HE R ESTAU R AN T YO U
S H OU LD K NOW ABO U T
Joo-ok is a modern Korean restaurant
and is really a gem of the Korean
fine-dining scene. With the food chef
Shin Changho is creating, it’s really
a surprise that his restaurant is not well
known overseas. For people who want
to experience the local Korean scene
and culture, look no further. This is
definitely where they should eat.

GUTTER
PHOTOGRAPHY
CREDIT GETTY IMAGES (SEOUL CITY), CHOI JOON HO (KANG).

FI NE-D I NI NG I N SE O U L
Mosu is one of the rare restaurants in
Korea that can really be described as
fine-dining. South-Korean born and
Californian-raised chef Sung Anh first
opened Mosu in San Francisco earning
a Michelin star in its first year. In 2017
Anh relocated Mosu to Seoul. 

As told to Jessica Rigg for
The Local Tongue. For more
chef’s guides from around the
world, see thelocaltongue.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

133

NG

PHOTOGRAHY GETTY IMAGES.

C
Y
F
L
T
I
I

The only thing
you need to bring
to Singapore is
your appetite.
HANNAH-ROSE
YEE packs hers
for a long
weekend in
the Lion City.

T

ell anyone you are going to Singapore and the first
question they will ask is this: ‘What are you going
to eat?’ Dining out is a way of life in the Lion City,
treated with near religious levels of devotion.
Everyone has an opinion on where to go: where to get the
best chicken rice, the best Peranakan sweets, the best char
kway teow, the best chilli crab, the best kaya toast, the best
satay, even the best coffee (Tolido’s Espresso Nook). You
won’t ever go hungry in Singapore.
It’s been three years since I was last there and returning
to the island brought a cascade of emotion. Weaving
through the Maxwell Food Centre hawker market on my
first day, loading up a plastic tray with sticky sweet char siu
and sheaths of flaky roti and an Iced Milo, just because, felt
like coming home.

PHOTOGRAPHY ADISORNR.

Dining out is a way of life in the Lion City, treated
with near religious levels of devotion.

Clockwise from left: the dining room at
La Dame de Pic; berlingots at La Dame
de Pic. The open kitchen at Cloudstreet;
a porcini course at Cloudstreet.
PREVIOUS PAGES: Left: lasers over
Marina Bay Sands. Right: Singapore’s
Chinatown and its lanterns; Satay
skewers cooked over coals at Lau Pa Sat
hawker center.

E AT

When it comes to dining out, Singapore offers a buffet
of both high and humble dining, the high reaching the
loftiest heights of fine dining. Forget Michelin stars,
Singapore has a Michelin constellation, with some 42
establishments boasting the coveted designation. This
includes two for storied Sri Lankan-born, Australiantrained chef Rishi Naleendra’s Cloudstreet, one for Burnt
Ends, the Australian barbecue restaurant helmed by Dave
Pynt and one for Candlenut, where you can eat tiger
prawns in lemak sauce with Sarawak pineapple. Candlenut
also happens to be the only traditional Peranakan
restaurant – based on the cuisine of Chinese immigrants
to Singapore – to receive a Michelin star.
La Dame de Pic, the first Asian outpost for decorated
chef Anne-Sophie Pic housed in a corner of Raffles hotel
lobby, also boasts a star, and it’s well deserved. Pic was here
just last week, manager Leila Bernardino tells me, and she
dined on the same delicately balanced caviar and pumpkin
entrée that I am eating. “I’m glad you had the chance to try
it,” she smiles. A procession of dishes follows: berlingot
pasta parcels, like puffed up ravioli, a langoustine tail

swimming in Madras curry bisque, a dessert of inverted
millefeuille, the finest pastry layers covered in a glossy shell
of earl grey cream. The meal is exquisite, course after course
arriving with just the right amount of theatre. “This is the
last, we promise,” jokes Clovis, a waiter brandishing a plate
of petit fours: mango tart, matcha roulade and a chocolate
and bergamot truffle.
The other end of the dining spectrum is cheap and
cheerful: Singapore’s hawker centres. These open-air food
courts form the backbone of the island’s street food culture,
many of them dating back to the mid ’70s. Which centre
you frequent is a matter of fierce pride and interrogation.
Maxwell Food Centre is known as one of the best and for
good reason, home to two of the city’s most popular
chicken rice stalls: Tian Tian and Ah Tai, side by side
and locked in a longstanding feud. For my money, Ah Tai
nudges the win, courtesy of their tenderly poached chicken,
sweet rice and the lightly fermented ginger chilli sauce, just
the right side of bitter. Neither will set you back more than
a few dollars. Down at Lau Pa Sat, another historic centre
that has recently undergone a glossy renovation, the
drawcard is satay. The smoke hits you first, a cloud of char
congregating over an alley of grills, all lined up in a row.
The suggestively named Best Satay 7&8 has the longest
line, so that’s where I stake my claim, grabbing a plate of
chicken, beef and prawn skewers and a bowl of that rich,
spicy peanut sauce. It’s so good I could eat another tray. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

137

DRINK

Singapore is a great spot for cocktails. At Analogue,
nestled inside the CHIJMES complex – you might recognise
the building as the location for the wedding in Crazy Rich
Asians – innovative cocktails pair well with the plant-based
menu, while Nutmeg & Clove spins local flavours into
unique drinks, such as its Claypot Negroni. There’s even
a natural wine bar: the buzzing RVLT with its ever-present
disco ball, which serves chicken nuggets with a home-made
sriracha and has a wine list that would make P&V envious.
Then there’s Atlas, a sprawling throwback to the heyday
of the roaring ’20s, housed in one of Singapore’s only art
deco buildings. Is it a bar? Is it a restaurant? Is it a decadent
den of iniquity? Perhaps a combination of all three. “It’s
very grand and opulent,” remarks head bartender Yana K
with a grin. She comes bearing Atlas’ signature Martini
flight – three mini tipples of varying degrees of lethalness,
an elegant deluge of gin, of which Atlas boasts an
encyclopedic menu some 1700 bottles strong. “If I’m having
a bad day, I come to Atlas. Friends’ dinner, I come to Atlas.
Mum’s birthday, I come to Atlas,” she jokes. “I don’t think
about going anywhere else.”

Clockwise from left: Atlas Bar’s interior;
a highball at Jigger & Pony; and inside
the bar. Opposite, from top: the verandah
and Palm Court wing of Raffles.

138

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY HARVARD WANG (ATLAS).

It’s 10 o’clock on a Sunday night when I walk into
Jigger & Pony, but it feels more like midnight on
a Friday. Singaporeans are not one for a sleepy end to
the week. Instead, they’re packed into this award-winning
spot – currently 12 on the World’s 50 Best Bars – ordering
cocktail after cocktail. I note how busy it is, but Emily,
my drinking partner and the company’s marketing manager,
simply laughs. “This is quiet for Jigger!” she exclaims.
We order all the greatest hits: a zingy yuzu whiskey sour,
the pretty – but potent – Sakura Martini, and an Espresso
Martini with a cocoa bean crisp surface which you smash
with a little spoon, like a boozy crème brûlée. Each are
served up ice cold within six minutes; no matter how
busy the bar is, Jigger & Pony prides itself on getting
drink orders to you faster than a Frank Ocean song.
And they go down just as easy.

STAY

PHOTOGRAPHY TOOTEN.

There is so much history at Raffles, they employ a full-time
historian. Leslie Danker has just celebrated his 50th year of
employment at the hotel they call the Grand Dame of
Singapore, and meets me in the lobby on my first morning
in residence in a suite overlooking the lush, palm-shrouded
internal courtyard, a private space cordoned off for guests.
The stories you’ve heard about Raffles are all true: yes, a tiger
once escaped from the zoo and sheltered underneath the bar
and billiard room. Yes, the Singapore Sling was invented
here in 1915. Yes, the queue to get into Long Bar, where they
are served up by the trayful, is as dense as everybody says.
And yes, Raffles is every bit as majestic and completely
luxurious as you imagined it would be.
Raffles is a very special hotel. After an extensive
two-and-a-half year restoration spearheaded by interior
designer Alexandra Champalimaud – only the second in its
136-year history – the property re-opened in 2019 sparkling
like a jewel. The main building is all white marble and
soaring columns with a large interior verandah encircling
the secret courtyard. I am staying in the second oldest wing
of the hotel, Danker tells me, which was added in 1814 and
even features some of the original ceiling work. The
restoration is as elegant as the service, which is faultless. The
second my handbag is placed on the floor of the Writers
Bar a stool materialises to rest it on; my coffee comes just
how I like it every morning without me uttering a word.
One afternoon, a pot of tea is quietly deposited in my
suite with a note from my butler. (Each room at Raffles is
called a suite, and each comes with personal staff to help
facilitate your every need.) “If there is anything at all that
we can do to make you more comfortable, please do not
hesitate to let us know,” it reads. I take my tea and sit on
the balcony at dusk. An hour to slow down in a city that
never stops, a pause in between a busy itinerary of eating
and eating and eating some more. Raffles knew what
I needed even before I knew it myself. 

Getting
there
Multiple airlines fly direct
to Singapore from main
centres across Australia.
Suites at Raffles Singapore
are priced from $1150 per
night. raffles.com

CHECKING IN

Hotel Vera, Ballarat
We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where to stay, eat,
drink and play. This month, GT heads to regional Victoria.

Ballarat,
Vic

S T A Y

Quick
look

Ballarat has no shortage of beautiful gold rush-era buildings to repurpose but few are lavished with
the level of care and attention to detail as the 19th century mansion housing Hotel Vera. Owners Martin
Shew and David Cook-Doulton (the hotel is named for Cook-Doulton’s grandmother) have imbued each
of the boutique hotel’s seven high-ceilinged rooms with a distinct personality via colour and art (Vera’s
impressive art collection is all by Australian women). All that character is pulled together by a throughtheme of elegant indulgence, courtesy of gorgeous free-standing bathtubs in spacious bathrooms,
tactile textures from marble and brass through to linen and wool, minibars stocked with local wines
and bottled cocktails from Melbourne maestros Byrdi, and interactive lighting and period features
that are highlighted not fetishised. It feels fresh and modern, a vibe bolstered by the fact that it’s
also the new home to excellent dégustation restaurant Underbar, doubling the reasons to make Hotel
Vera a luxe basecamp for your next Ballarat adventure. hotelballarat.com.au

Where
710 Sturt Street,
Ballarat, Vic
Facilities
Prices start from
$495 per night for
one bedroom.
Gym No
Restaurant Yes
Bar No
Free WiFi Yes

M U S T

D O

Checking in

Underbar is the non-negotiable element in any Hotel Vera
stay. The 14-seat dégustation restaurant, owned and operated
by Derek Boath (ex-New York’s Per Se), recently moved from
more humble digs to this gorgeous light-filled “pavilion” at Vera,
centred around a floating kitchen island where Boath works his
single-handed magic. A sublime 10-plus succession of dishes
might include thrillingly good chawanmushi spiked with spanner
crab, an ethereal clear vegetable consommé or sculptural
house-made croissant teamed with milk and dark chocolate.

Clockwise from above: lamb rump with black and
white garlic and cavolo nero at Underbar; gin and
cheese at Kilderkin Distillery; Art Gallery of Ballarat;
the dining room at Mitchell Harris. Opposite: Hotel
Vera’s Kingston suite with art by Ember Fairbairn.

T R I P

There are a couple of excellent options here. Firstly, embrace Ballarat’s
artistic side by spending time at the superb Art Gallery of Ballarat (and
its exceptional gift shop) and then signing yourself up for a single-day
course in traditional Wadawarrung weaving or chair making (among
many others) at the newly opened Australian Centre for Rare Arts &
Forgotten Trades, the only centre of its kind in the world. Then there’s
the craft alcohol option, where you can explore Ballarat’s increasingly
impressive distilling and brewing culture at places like Kilderkin Distillery
with their impressive range of gin, or breweries like Aunty Jacks or Red
Duck, where classic styles rub shoulders with interesting experimentation.

E A T

WORDS MICHAEL HARDEN. PHOTOGRAPHY KIM LANDY (MITCHELL HARRIS)

D A Y

Lunch

Breakfast

Dinner

There are several Ballarat lunch
options including reliable stalwart
L’Espresso and the lovely Lola at
the Provincial Hotel but Pancho,
a superb South American bar/diner
on Armstrong Street North, should
be at the top of your list. Tacos filled
with fried crumbed fish are worth
the price of admission alone but the
daily-changing arepa, addictive
tostada de carnitas and Margaritas
are also worthy of consideration.

Breakfast at Hotel Vera is served in
light-filled Underbar and is a chic,
Euro-style continental affair – juice
and pour-over coffee, granola and
yoghurt, cheese, ham and bread,
a boiled egg. For those after
something a little more robust,
Johnny Alloo is a five-minute stroll
away and offers hearty breakfast
dishes of the eggs Benedict ilk,
some of the Ballarat’s best coffee,
a beautiful room and great service.

There’s no shortage of dining
options to tempt you in Ballarat
once you’ve ticked Underbar from
your list (essential). Thai fans
should check out the dégustation
at Mr Jones that offers fresh,
expertly balanced flavours over
multiple courses (lime-cured sea
bream is a highlight) while more
casual good times can be had
at the OG Ballarat wine bar and
cellar door Mitchell Harris.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

141

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1

Seabourn Begin planning your 2024
cruise of Northern Europe today with one
of Seabourn’s ultra-luxurious offerings.
Take a journey of Iceland in its splendour
or discover the fjords of Norway. From
$5499pp twin share. Visit seabourn.com

4

The Wanderers Travel Co Copenhagen
Belt Bag features handstitched quilted
leather with a wide “belt” strap, plus longer
adjustable crossbody strap and removable
wristlet. RRP $169, wandererstravelco.com

7

RSL Art Union Your 24/7 resort lifestyle
begins with a $5 ticket! Get in now for
your chance to win two stunning lakeside
villas in Noosa’s Sunshine Coast, valued at
$6.3 million and each with a private pool.
Visit rslartunion.com.au/prizes/draw403

2

The Glenlivet Caribbean Reserve is
the perfect addition to your summer
celebrations. Finished in ex-Caribbean
rum barrels, this single malt scotch whisky
is fruity, sweet and delicious in cocktails.
RRP $70, liquorland.com.au

5

Payot Renew and immediately plump
skin with Payot’s must-have ingredients
Pure Retinol and Pure Hyaluronic Acid
Duo, while AHAs regenerate skin
overnight. RRP from $125, payot.com

8

The Langham Hotel Gold Coast A unique
and tantalising Cantonese fine-dining
affair, Gold Coast restaurant T’ang Court
embraces the essence of the Southern
Chinese region and adorns your plate with
the finest produce. Visit langhamhotels.com

3

La Marzocco Home Handcrafted with the
same components as their commercial
machines, the Linea Micra allows any
owner to embrace their inner barista
and serve café-quality coffee at home.
RRP $5999, lamarzoccohome.com.au

6

Weber The all new Weber Genesis range,
also available in stainless steel, features
Weber Connect smart technology, so
every meal will turn out perfectly every
time. RRP from $3099, weber.com/AU

9

Royal Caribbean This summer, treat your
senses to unlimited holidays with a single
ticket onboard Royal Caribbean, traversing
destinations across Australia, New Zealand
and the sun-drenched South Pacific. Visit
royalcaribbean.com.au

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL, ACCOMMODATION & FOOD

Home to Poltergeist Gin
and Callington
Mill Whisky
Open 7 days 10am - 4pm

Tours and Experiences
Whisky and Gin Tasting
Fine Dining

6 Mill Lane, Oatlands,
Tasmania, 7120
callingtonmilldistillery.com

The Hidden Italy 2023 guided and fully supported self-guided walks
are open for bookings. Our two-week guided tours visit well known
destinations such as Sicily and the Dolomites and less well-known places
such as the Valle d’Aosta and Friuli Venezia Giulia while our twenty selfguided, pack free, self-guided walks visit well-known places such as the
Amalfi Coast and Lake Como and less well-known places such as Alba and
Le Langhe and the Gargano Peninsula. Please join us on our adventures!

Stay

IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT
AND UNIQUE STYLE

02 5317 8200 • info@byngstreethotel.com.au
62 Byng Street Orange NSW

W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U

www.hiddenitaly.com.au
TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL, ACCOMMODATION & ART

Discover the stunning Italian Lakes
ON A SMALL GROUP TOUR.
May and September 2023

Book now! | 02 9358 4923 | ciao@italiantours.com.au | italiantours.com.au

Luxury Holiday Homes, Apartments and Villas
Creating exceptional holidays for more than 25 years
RING AND ASK ABOUT DISCOUNTS JAN 14 - MAR 31, 2023 FOR SOME HOMES
BOOK DIRECT I SUPPORT AUSTRALIA I 0740 981 418
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Athena Nangala Granites
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(Seven Sisters Dreaming) 2022
Acrylic on Belgian linen
152 x 107cm

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL, ACCOMMODATION & FOOD
RS –
U 0 23 4
O
T t 2 2 02
p r
Se Ap

Give Fake-ness the Flick.
Herbs of Life Real
Cultured Kombucha.
herbsof life.com.au
Made in the Blue Mountains Australia
info@herbsoflife.com.au • 02 4759 3852

Sicily
with
Rosa
Tour

Australia’s Purveyor of finest Greek foods and wine.

Sicilian born chef Rosa Mitchell, from
Rosa's Canteen Melbourne, will take
you on an unique opportunity combining
your love of good food and wine with
your passion for travel: an exclusive
fully-escorted 15-day holiday-with-adifference, in beautiful Sicily.
For info email rosasiciliankitchen@gmail.com

bringing greece home

Special gift code for GT readers:
#GT10 for orders over $150 for
10% off AND free shipping!

visit us online @
thegreekprovidore.com.au
We ship Australia wide

Elevate your home cooking and wellbeing with the
best Mediterranean olive oils. From home cooking to
fine dining with just a few drops of liquid gold!

Full range of extra virgin olive oils at
www.GrecianPurveyor.com
Call us: (02) 8916 6206 Email us: info@GrecianPurveyor.com

ESCAPE TO THE TROPICS
Book direct & save up to 25% off your tropical
getaway*
Family owned and operated, Port Douglas Getaways has exclusively
serviced the beachside region for over 25 years. We offer the
premier choice of holiday accommodation, with 55+ luxury
properties ranging from absolute beachfront abodes
to private hideaways - all in the heart of Port
Douglas. Book with us today. Paradise awaits.

07 4099 4789
www.portdouglasgetaways.com.au

*see website or enquire for applicable dates

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

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New start
Chic finds for the home, luxe sunglasses,
GT-approved mascaras and skincare
and banquet-worthy ceramics.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

Home

ORIENT EXPRESS
Lanterns, velvet and brass set a luxurious
scene for celebrating at home.
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3

5
4

8
6
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1 Doris for HK Living traditional lantern, $1495, House of Orange. 2 Ventura dining chair, from $1975, Poliform. 3 Gucci Esotericum Murano glass candle,
$660, Matches Fashion. 4 Seine floor lamp, $5695, Coco Republic. 5 Seletti Hybrid Aglaura glasses, $116 for three, Peter’s of Kensington. 6 Bon coffee
table, $799, James Lane. 7 Bordallo Pinheiro Cosmos earthenware bowls, $105 for four, Matches Fashion. 8 Doris for HK Living stitched cushion in Blue
Brush, $149, House of Orange. ABOVE Dining room with HK Living pieces from House of Orange.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

147

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3

5
6

4

8

7

9

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1 Flow resin cake stand, $209, Saardé. 2 Mrs Alice raffia cutlery, $170 for 10-piece set, Matches Fashion. 3 Ferm Living Path hammock, $489.90, Design Stuff.
4 Traeger Pro 575 pellet smoker, $1599, Traeger Grills. 5 Anwar rattan lantern, from $119, Domayne. 6 Asha outdoor rug in Moss, $319, Domayne. 7 Dinosaur
Designs Stone marbled-resin salad servers, $125, Matches Fashion. 8 Sicily Frame three-seater sofa, $5995, Globe West. 9 Livorno Luna side table, $910,
Globe West. 10 Kun Design Pipe trolley, from $1575, Domo Furniture. 11 Gio fire pit, $1195, Coco Republic. OPPOSITE PAGE Outdoor space featuring furniture
from Globe West.

148

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Home

TAKE IT OUTSIDE
Enjoy the last days of summer in an outdoor
room designed for both comfort and calm.

HOM
E

INSPI
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

149

RA

TION

15

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Inspired
by
4

Four Seasons
Resort Langkawi,
Malaysia

Fit bits

5

11

Get physical in sleek activewear
and hi-tech accessories.

1 Belted windbreak pant 502, $195, Aje
Athletica. 2 Ted Baker Botlet stainless
steel water bottle in Gold, $49.95, David
Jones. 3 Versace Greca-print cropped
top, $205, Farfetch. 4 Track That
Mid-Rise Lined Short 5” in Dark Red,
$69, Lululemon. 5 Plein Sport logo
lace-up sneakers, $475, Farfetch. 6 Logo
mesh jacket 757, $295, Aje Athletica.
7 Beats by Dr Dre studio buds in Blue,
$229, David Jones. 8 Cordova Soelden
striped ribbed merino wool-blend
bodysuit, $492, Net-A-Porter.
9 Jil Sander textured logo-print yoga
mat, $490, Farfetch. 10 Iphone 13 Pro
case on strap in Sunburst, $390, Bottega
Veneta. 11 Padded oversized tote bag
919 in black, $195, Aje Athletica. 12 & 13
Motley jersey in Lapis, $450 and Motley
track pant, $420, Nagnata. 14 Samsung
Galaxy Watch5 Pro in Black Titanium,
$698, Harvey Norman. 15 Cream/
Sandstone all-in suit, $345, Nagnata.

8

10

7

9
150

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

6

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA. MERCHANDISING CHARLOTTE WISHART.

Style

Golden eyes
Bring a touch of glamour to the new
year with these chic shades.

Clockwise from top left: Chianti sunglasses in Light Gold, $349, Michael Kors. 90s vintage logo cat-eye sunglasses, $404,
Versace. Panthère de Cartier sunglasses, $1420, Cartier. Prada PR 50ZS sunglasses, $607, Sunglass Hut. Dolce & Gabbana
DG4422F sunglasses in Black, $340, Sunglass Hut.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

151

Beauty

LUXE LASHES
Lifting, defining, lengthening or volumising, a swipe (or two)
of these mascaras takes lashes to fluttery new lengths.

.
152

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

SISLEY PARIS
SO STRETCH MASCARA
The precise brush helps
to create definition and
length without leaving
lashes looking overly
“done up”. Plus, the
formula includes damask
rose extract and castor oil
to condition lashes with
every coat.
$85, sisley-paris.com

THE I

ROSE INC
ULTRA-BLACK LASH
LIFT SERUM MASCARA
Instead of sweeping
mascara through the lash,
experts wiggle it back and
forth at the root and
mid-length for added
oomph. Use the short side
of this mascara’s wand at
the base and longer side
through to the tip.
$42, mecca.com.au

BURBERRY BEAUTY
ULTIMATE LIFT
MASCARA
Makeup artists love to
use a volumising mascara
on the outer corners of
the eye for a dramatic
winged effect. This
formula takes that look
one step further with
a curling effect, givng
lashes even more flick.
$56, sephora.com.au

WORDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

CHANEL NOIR ALLURE
ALL-IN-ONE MASCARA
This option does all the
lifting, defining and
conditioning you’d expect
in a luxury mascara. What
you might not expect,
though, is a hint of red in
the black formula to
intensify eye colours.
The narrow, flexible brush
reaches every last lash.
$71, chanel.com

5

4

2
CHARLOTTE TILBURY
PILLOW TALK PUSH UP
LASHES MASCARA
The be all and end all of
big-impact lashes, this
mascara is an express
pass to the false lash
effect. The point of
difference is a polymer,
which lifts and holds the
lash upwards to make
eyes look more awake.
$46, mecca.com.au

EDIT

3

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8

GT team
favourite

7

Holy grail

6

Injectables are not the only way to target
wrinkles. These non-invasive skincare
heroes aim to put “tweakments” on hold.

1 Like an anti-wrinkle injection in a bottle this peptide-packed serum helps to minimise muscle contractions. Medik8 Liquid Peptides, $108, Medik8.
2 The glycolic acid in this lotion keeps skin looking refreshed. Wiqo Smoothing Face Fluid, $138, Wiqo. 3 For high-powered plumping. SkinMTX Ultimate
Fine Line Eraser, $119, SkinMTX 4 Hyaluronic acid fans out the skin from within. NIP + FAB Hydrate Hyaluronic Fix Extreme4 Hydrating Serum, $40, Priceline.
5 This at-home device uses microcurrents for a contoured look. NuFace Trinity Device, $511, Mecca. 6 Massage three or four drops of this elixir into the skin
for a lifted effect. Mesoestetic Age Element Firming Concrentrate, $179, Advanced Cosmeceuticals. 7 An Instagram under-eye filter for the real world. Dr Naomi
Catfish Blurring Eye Cream, $119, Dr Naomi. 8 A hydration hero. Dr. Barbara Sturm Super Anti-Aging Face Cream, $414, Mecca.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

153

Objects of desire

7

6
8

5
12

11

10

Quite a dish
4

1 Taisen plate, $35, Provider Store. 2 Mino plate in Navy,
$14.20, Minimaru. 3 Ryoka Usukiyaki handmade small bowl,
$66, Osara. 4 Tako hand-painted oval bowl, $32, Osara.
5 Sthål pasta bowl in Thunder, $71, Casa e Cucina. 6 Touga
leaf plate in Sky Blue, $39.50, Minimaru. 7 Sometsuke ramen
bowl, $28, Osara. 8 Sthål large round serving platter in
Ocean, $199, Casa e Cucina. 9 Mitake plate, $35, Provider
Store. 10 Indigo Tokusa high rim plate, $19.50, Minimaru.
11 Kaneko Pottery Giyaman Series plate in Navy Blue, $34,
Osara. 12 Khai udon bowl, $45, Provider Store.

3

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154

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Bring a touch of elegance to any
table with these unique ceramics.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING LAUREN DE SOUSA. MERCHANDISING CHARLOTTE WISHART.

9

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