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Food
SEASONS GREETINGS
These seafood-centric
dishes will take centre
stage at Christmas lunch.
Barbecued prawns with
aji verde ............................... 101
Spanner crab, pink grapefruit
and coconut salad ............ .101
Grilled lobster with beurre blanc
and chives ..........................102
Ocean trout pastrami, pickled
apple and beetroot ......... .105
Seared scallops with whipped
green goddess butter......105
Prawn and scampi cocktail
platter with
avocado granita ................ 107

108

The
festive
issue

118

Bring a little bit of sugary joy
to the table with these festive
baked delights from Sydney’s
A.P Bakery.
Coconut and cherry
frangipane tart ................. 120
Stollen .......................................121
Paris-Brest with ricotta
Chantilly and Davidson’s
plum .....................................123
Buckwheat ginger spiced
biscuits ................................124
Christmas fruit mince pie....124
Mango macadamia
merveilleux with
Dulcey cream....................127

A TABLE TO SHARE
This festive collection of
fuss-free barbecued meats and
fresh salads is sure to impress.
Barbecued lamb in baharat
and yoghurt ......................... 110
Sumac onions, green tomatoes
and cucumber .................... 110
Citrus-cured poussin, pickled
plum and yuzu
kosho aïoli ........................... 110
Silverbeet ohitashi .................. 111
Bay leaf and lemon myrtle
roast turkey ......................... 113
Green wedge salad ................113
Pea, asparagus and charred
potato salad ........................ 113
Smoked coffee and spicerubbed tomahawk
steaks ...................................114
Makrut lime, lemongrass and
cider glazed ham...............114
Zucchini salad with lime and
coconut milk .......................114
Summer melon salad ...........115

JOY TO THE WORLD

128

SKILLS AND THRILLS
Food writer Alice Zaslavsky
shares her holiday spirit with
vibrant recipes from her new
cookbook, The Joy of Better
Cooking.
Pumpkin wedge
mujadara .............................131
Glacé beetroot, blackberry and
orange veringues ............. 133
Loaded potato latkes ..........133
Cheerio cherry yule log......134

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING AMBER DE FLORIO.

98

DECEMBER 2022
ON THE COVER
Makrut lime, lemongrass and
cider glazed ham (p114)
Recipe Dominic Smith

Features
74

SUMMER DRINKS GUIDE
From elegant sparkling wine to groovy canned
cocktails, Samantha Payne’s sips list has you sorted.

Photography Alicia Taylor
Styling Amber de Florio

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80

2022: YEAR IN REVIEW

87

GIFT GUIDE

magshop.com.au/GMT
Details p94

Regulars
15
35
36
38
41
50
53
138
148
156
162
170

UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.
FIVE OF A KIND Vanilla ice-cream.
THE KITCHEN GARDENER Sweet cherries.
A QUICK WORD Hugh Bonneville.
REVIEW Dining out.

A roundup of GT’s most popular recipes, our favourite
food trends and go-to cookbooks.

Whether it’s for the entertainer, the cook or an outdoor
adventurer, we’ve compiled the ultimate Christmas wish
list with this GT-approved gift guide.

Travel
140

MONSOON MAGIC
Take a luxe tour through India with Fiona Donnelly
– from royal palaces to curries fit for a Maharaja.

MASTERCLASS Semifreddo.
EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals.
THE ART OF TRAVEL Feeling festive.
A CHEF’S GUIDE Vienna, Austria.
CHECKING IN Ace Hotel, Sydney.
STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE Scented candles.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (INDIA).

Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
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150

A FINE BORDEAUX
Discover why there’s so much more to the city of
Bordeaux than just good wine.

D ED

I
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HARD TO

FIN

1

Joanna Hunkin
Editor
Deputy Editor
Art Director
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Creative Consultant

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Food
Group Food Director Sophia Young
Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Digital
Digital managing editor Jayde Malifa
Digital editor Cordelia Williamson

Contributors
Alexandra Carlton, Alix Davis, Fiona Donnelly, Paul Ewart, Michael Harden,
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12

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

entertain
without limits
The all-new Weber Genesis range
Feature-packed with everything you’d expect, plus more
To learn more about the all-new Weber Genesis range & accessories, scan the QR code or visit weber.com/au

Editor’s letter

Editor’s letter

The December issue is always a time to pause and
reflect but as I sit down to write this, my final missive
of the year, I am fizzing. This year, I don’t have to
scrounge around for the smallest scraps of joy and
force myself to sound brighter and jollier than I really
am. This year, the joy is real and I am fizzing with
both excitment and relief.
As I write this letter, I am on my way to Tokyo
to attend the most extraordinary evening of music
and craftsmanship, which will see Japanese composer
Ryuichi Sakamoto unveil a bespoke symphony
inspired by the 2008 vintage of Krug Champagne.
It’s an event that’s been three years in the making
and would have been unimaginable last year, or even
just a few weeks ago, as Japan remained closed to
international tourists. So when I was invited to share
this groundbreaking moment, I said yes.
And when I called my best friend, who lives in
Hong Kong, to suggest she join me in Tokyo for the
weekend and we eat our way across the city with
reckless abandon, she too said yes.
Because after three years of hard no, the relief and
excitement of being able to say yes is a gift, and the
real highlight of 2022.

SUBSCRIBE NOW

CH

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT (PORTRAIT) & GETTY IMAGES (TOKYO).

RI

R ME

AS

OU

T

G

magshop.com.au/gmt
Details p94

GIVE THE GIFT OF GOURMET TRAVELLER THIS CHRISTMAS

STM

Gourmet Traveller Everyday
Flavour and fresh produce are at
the heart of our new cookbook,
which shows how simple it is to
create everyday dishes from
scratch. Featuring more than
100 seasonal recipes that are
easy to prepare yet elegant.
aremediabooks.com.au

Maison Balzac x GT wine glasses
As featured on the cover of our
November issue, these limited
edition wine glasses bring a little
fun and flair to any occasion. Pair
with your favourite summer drink,
whether it’s red, white or pink.
maisonbalzac.com/gourmet
Gourmet Traveller Gift Card
For a shared experience and meal to
remember, the Gourmet Traveller gift
card is perfect for those who
appreciate the good things in life.
From Cutler and Co. in Melbourne to
Hentley Farm in South Australia, it
can be used across Australia at some
of the country’s best restaurants.
gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au

The Ultimate
Christmas Gift Guide
Need more inspiration? Scan
the QR code to access the
Hard to Find Christmas Gift
Guide, curated by the country’s
leading magazine editors. There’s
a special GT edit, along with
inspiration from Belle, Country
Style, marie claire and more.

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

15

Contributors

Mango macadamia
merveilleux
with Dulcey cream

16

127

PAUL EWART

DOUGAL MUFFET

TAMIKA O’NEILL

writer

chef and baker

chef

A fine Bordeaux, p150
Having lived and worked across
three continents – and notched up
passport stamps from more than 70
countries – British-born, Sydneybased travel journalist, Paul Ewart,
is always looking to break new
ground. For this issue, he visits
Bordeaux, a city he says should
be on the radar of every hungry
traveller. “The mere mention of
Bordeaux is enough to make you
reach for a wine glass and a cheese
platter,” says Ewart. “But there’s
so much more to this city than
a decent drop.”

Joy to the world, p118
After wrapping up at Ester, where
he worked as a chef, Muffet went
from go-to-dough, honing his
baking skills at Southern Highlands
bakery, Moonacre. This year Muffet
opened A.P Bakery, crafting some
of Sydney’s most sought-after
pastries. Naturally, he was our first
choice to call upon for our holiday
baking feature. “We have the
typical Christmas dessert table but
we wanted to do something a little
different,” says Muffet. “You’ve
probably seen a thousand pavs –
so here are few other things.”

Seasons greetings, p98
Growing up in Queensland,
seafood has always been
a Christmas day staple for chef and
recipe developer Tamika O’Neill.
For this issue, O’Neill pulled
together a spread of lobster,
prawn, trout, scallops and scampi,
that’s pitch perfect for a summer’s
day. “Seafood is so suited to our
climate in December and it is
a great way to indulge without
slaving away in a hot kitchen for
hours,” says O’Neill. “It’s just not
Christmas without an abundance
of seafood on the festive table.”

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVEN WALSH.

p

Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.

Time Rone, Melbourne, Vic
Three years in the making, artist Rone has created
a love letter to mid-century Melbourne. The
multisensory exhibition is set in the abandoned
third-floor wing of Flinders Street Station and is
a hauntingly beautiful step back in time.
Holly Doran, designer

Gucci Osteria, Tokyo, Japan
Those familiar with Gucci’s signature style
will recognise the playful quirks that appear
throughout Massimo Bottura and Antonio
Iacoviello’s menu. Nothing is ever quite as
it seems, whether it’s this so-called risotto
(which features no rice) or the brilliant,
“A Parmigiana that wants to be a Ramen”.
Joanna Hunkin, editor

Raes on Wategos, Byron Bay, NSW
The pool at this Byron stayer is
reason enough to visit. Then add to
the equation a very special dinner
with Tokyo sushi chef Koji Kimura and
Raes has proved it’s still one of the
most thrilling small hotels in Australia.
Jordan Kretchmer, news editor

Maeve Wine Bar, Brisbane, Qld
No visit to Brisbane is complete without
a leisurely stop at groovy Maeve Wine Bar.
With window seats overlooking the glittering
cityscape, it’s the perfect place for a glass of
funky wine and a couple of creative snacks.
Charlotte Wishart, editorial coordinator

18

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Rekōdo, Barangaroo, NSW
Dining at the kitchen bar, we were
treated to the best kind of dinner
theatre; precision hibachi and artful
plating. Bewitched, we handed
ourselves over to the large omakase
menu where the whiskey-cured trout
was an umami-fuelled highlight and we
were almost too full for dessert.
Anna McCooe, deputy editor

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T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

SYDNEY

Clockwise from above: Icebergs
Dining Room and Bar chef Alex
Prichard; prawn crudo risotto; and
Nomidokoro Indigo.
24

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Bondi will welcome back one of its
most famed restaurants when Icebergs
Dining Room and Bar reopens.
Head chef Alex Prichard tells GT, “The
reopening menu is a mixture of new and
old. The brief for Icebergs has always
been the same from Maurice [Terzini]:
flavours his mother would recognise but
the food she’d never cook. There’s a lot
of freedom in that brief,” says Prichard.
The centre of the restaurant will behold
a new iced seafood trough, from which
lobsters from Kiama, yabbies, and tins of
caviar will be displayed. The caviar
service has been changed up to include
pizzelle, which Prichard first tried at
Terzini’s house, made by his mother.
“I said ‘these are incredible. We need
to serve them with caviar!’ So it’s
a beautiful thin wafer that has a tiny bit
of sweetness. When you eat it with salty

caviar and sourness from the cultured
cream, it’s incredible.” Pasta-wise there
will be freshly extruded macaroni with
a hunter’s ragú of squab, quail and amaro.
Returning hits will include Prichard’s
scarlet prawn crudo risotto with XO.
“There’s not an Italian ingredient in it, but
it tastes like Italy. The koshihikari rice is
obviously not an Italian grain. But when
you have arborio rice in Australia, it’s sat
on a shipping container for 12 to 18
months. But this rice is milled to order for
us up in Griffith, so you get an incredible
flavour from it,” says Prichard. “The XO
we make is halfway between a Chinese
XO and a bagna cauda.” Along with
a refreshed menu, the kitchen and
service stations have been overhauled to
evolve with the restaurant’s new chapter.
In Darlinghurst Nomidokoro Indigo
is a new sake bar from the team behind
Haymarket’s Nakano Darling and Crows
Nest’s Yurippi. Like its other venues it
will celebrate Japanese drinking and
snacking culture. Sip on imported
sake joined by wasabi- marinated
octopus, agedashi tofu and school
prawn karaage.
In more Japanese openings, former
Surry Hills restaurant Toko, has settled
into its new home in the CBD. The
below-street-level spot will call upon the
restaurant’s long-held menu items
including smoked miso king salmon; and
yuzu meringue cheesecake; alongside
new menu items like tartare with caviar;
and crisp rice with tuna. The restaurant
also holds a 2am license, which means
late-night dining will be a big drawcard.
Mexican-born chef Manuel Diaz has
opened Nativo, a tiny 14-seat taqueria in

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (ICEBERGS).

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN (TOKO); JUN CHEN (MOON MART PORTRAIT) & NIKKI TO (MOON MART CONGEE).

News

Pyrmont. The name nods to Diaz’s
hometown of Oaxaca, but also the use
of native Australian ingredients,
exemplified in al pastor pork tacos with
saltbush morita salsa; while guacamole
gets jazzed up with lemon myrtle oil.
Finally, Arturo’s is the new
Mediterranean-inspired restaurant within
the Woolly Bay Hotel. Housed on level
one of the three-storey Woolloomooloo
redevelopment, Arturo’s is serving up
familiar but tasty coastal-inspired dishes
like kingfish crudo; burrata with citrus,
tangelo and fennel pollen; and steak
tartare with pecorino, horseradish and
thin-cut crisps.

CANBERRA
The team behind Pilot is set to launch
Such and Such, a day-to-night eatery
with an emphasis on wine. Hoping to
continue shining a light on creative
Canberrans and local producers, the
indoor-outdoor restaurant will have
a courtyard area across Constitution
Place. While Pilot is its destination diner,
the casual à la carte menu at Such and
Such will lend itself to locals who want to
drop in for a drink and a bite to eat, be
it oysters, pastas or whole fish; joined
by cool climate vinos, and low-to-no
alcohol options.

Clockwise from
left: Saikyo miso
black cod with
pickles at Toko;
the dining room
at Toko; Eun Hee
An and Mei
Onsamlee;
tarakjuk (crab and
milk congee) from
Moon Mart;
blackened
pumpkin with tofu,
ricotta, pork rind,
green curry oil
and peppercorns
at Kiin.

ADELAIDE
After recently moving to Adelaide,
former Same Same chef Ben Bertei
and front-of-house gun David Wickwar
have opened Kiin. Food will take
a modern Asian direction, while the wine
list will focus on European drops. Bertei
honed his skills under Martin Boetz at
Melbourne’s Longrain, so expect hot
takes on Thai classics.

MELBOURNE
Ex-Paper Bird chef and condiment
crafter Eun Hee An has moved to
Melbourne, and has turned her online
store Moon Mart into a bricks and
mortar store. “The real life Moon Mart
will be a small retail shop and also
a café,” says Hee An. “The whole thing
is inspired by convenience stores in Asia
and the way you can eat very tasty,
affordable food there.” To this end, you’ll
find sandwiches and toasties; alongside
more substantial teishoku-style set
meals. Moon Mart’s kimchi, XO sauce,
green chilli and anchovy condiment,
and chongqing popcorn will also be
available to shop. The store will be
opened alongside Mei Onsamlee,
who worked with Hee An at Sydney’s
Paper Bird.
Collingwood’s Tortas and Tacos’
Smith Street location has closed, with
a new location cropping up nearby on
Johnston Street in Fitzroy. Along with
hot sandwiches, the venue is now larger
and has a schmick new drinks menu, so
you can order a Margarita alongside
your al pastor torta.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

25

WOMEN IN THE ARTS

O N T H E PA S S

with SARAHJANE BROWN, CAFE SYDNEY

Food For Everyone is a not-for-profit project that
transforms delicious dishes into wall art. The new
edition unites an all-female creative line-up with
all-female cooks and chefs, including Nuñez Rojas’
minimalist take on Analiese Gregory’s crayfish
cocktail; and Allie Webb’s bold lino-cut depiction of
Rosheen Kaul’s black pepper mud crab. Profits from
each print purchased go directly to support people
experiencing food insecurity via charity partner
SecondBite, making for a visually impactful and
socially minded gift. $90, foodforeveryone.org.au

YULETIDE CHEERS

The team behind the Dolphin has taken
the admin out of making the perfect
Christmas tipple with a short run of
bottled cocktails. Calling upon festive
flavours such as pavlova (achieved
with a meringue-washed pisco) and
Christmas pudding (a toasty, buttery
take on an Old Fashioned) each drink
can be chilled and served straight up
for fuss-free entertaining.
$65 each, dolphinhotel.com.au

How have you approached the menu at Cafe Sydney? I’ve tried to highlight the
wonderful produce that exists in Australia. Keeping it very light and very fresh and
seasonal and really letting the quality speak for itself and just adding a little bit of
finesse to it.
How did you get into cooking? I actually did a film degree back in England and worked
straight after my degree in the film industry on commercials and TV shows. The recession
hit and I really had to re-evaluate what direction I was going to take because I couldn’t get
any jobs, so asked myself, “What’s something I’m really passionate about and can see
myself doing until I’m 60?” I went back to school and retrained as a chef, and eventually
came over to Australia on a working holiday visa to see what it’s like. I fell in love with
the place.
What’s your favourite dish to cook on the menu? I managed to partner with Hampshire
Down Lambs and it’s an incredible lamb product that I’ve never seen before. It’s almost like
a piece of beef with the marbling, so it’s not your classic lamb that’s really robust and in
your face – it’s very delicate because of the marbling. I braise the belly and then roast the
cutlets, and serve it with harissa eggplant, a creamed feta, broad beans and a lemon jus.
What is your number one tip in the lead-up to Christmas? Be organised. Get to the
fishmonger, your local grocer, and butcher as soon as you can to organise yourself and get
as many good quality ingredients as possible. Support local as much as you can afford for
the growers who have had a really hard couple of years.
Cafe Sydney, 5th floor, Customs House, 31 Alfred St, Circular Quay, NSW, cafesydney.com

News

Left: Ralph Fiennes in a scene
from The Menu.

HOT TAKES

PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC ZACHANOWICH (THE MENU).

While plenty of chefs and patrons alike have a horror story
from a restaurant, The Menu is a film taking the premise to
an unsettling and comical new level. Smashing together
a satirical, punchy horror-meets-comedy with a Chef’s
Table-like format (they enlisted the series’ creator David
Gelb to consult with the filmmakers), The Menu follows
Margot (Anya Taylor-Joy) and Tyler (Nicholas Hoult) as they
visit the haughty and exclusive restaurant of Hawthorn.
Ralph Fiennes (who you may recognise as Lord Voldemort,
or from The Grand Budapest Hotel) plays Julian Slowik,
a sinister and jaded chef. To achieve believable and
intricate dishes the filmmakers collaborated with

renowned chef Dominique Crenn of San Francisco
restaurant Atelier Crenn. Crafting courses that were edible
for the actors, Crenn brought her knowledge of food and
the true mechanics of running a world-class restaurant to
the table. “You can imagine, there was incredible energy
on set. We were cooking real food, and it was really like
being in a restaurant at times. That was my request so that
the authenticity of the emotions and flavours and tastes
were real,” says Crenn. The chef worked closely with all
the actors – particularly kitchen staff (actors were hired
who had previous kitchen experience) and Ralph Fiennes.
“He just wanted to study me inside and outside of the
kitchen, to see what it means to be a chef. Authenticity
was extremely important for him, the director and myself,”
says Crenn.
By balancing the seriousness of the craft of cooking – but
also knowing how painfully earnest fine dining can be
– the absurdist film is a fierce yet clever take on the
foodie, the critic and the role of restaurateurs. It’s a romp
that veers on insanity, but also questions class, gender
roles within the kitchen, and perfectionism. Food lovers
will be sure to devour it. The Menu is in cinemas now.

A CRACKER CHRISTMAS
Social enterprise Two Good Co has released
a new range of giftable goods, crackers and
dinner sets. For every cracker sold, a meal is
donated to someone staying in a women’s
refuge; while plates have been crafted in
collaboration with In the Roundhouse.
From $10, twogood.com.au/shop

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

27

News

Clockwise from above: meals to go;
Hope Hospitality Foundation founder
Neil Perry; volunteers serve meals at
Hope Hospitality HQ.

28

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Neil Perry is keeping the momentum of a good thing going,
relaunching the Hope Hospitality Foundation. “We’re refocusing what
we’re doing – coming out of the pandemic, we didn’t want to forget
about all the good work we had done,” says Perry. Formerly known as
Hope Delivery, the relaunched charity harnesses what the hospitality
industry does best – cooking, welcoming, serving and connecting – by
creating free meals for people in vulnerable situations. Along with
a kitchen preparing meals in Sydney’s Piccadilly Arcade, in 2023 the
team will open a public-facing shop, where city workers can pick up
convenient lunches. The profits from these on-the-go lunches will go
towards creating even more meals for vulnerable people. “That’s what
we do well in hospitality. We know we can make a more delicious,
really efficient, nutritious meal,” says Perry. “Often there will be
charities that will try and add a kitchen on; but we’re starting in the
kitchen, and really doing what’s core to our DNA.”
The meals are created by volunteers, which everyday people can get
involved with, regardless of their skills or experience. “It’s our amazing
brigade of volunteers that allows us to feed people,” says Perry. In the
kitchen you may find teams prepping braised zucchini and chilli
rigatoni pasta; a warming chilli con carne; or a lovely dhal. All hearty
nutritious, easy-to-transport options, which are created with rescued
produce with help from Qube Logistics and Woolworths.
“We’re rescuing food that would typically go to landfill, and that allows
us to extend our reach,” says Perry. Alongside volunteering, the charity
also runs off donations, which can be given directly, or added to the
bill when dining at Margaret, Baker Bleu, or at Perry’s new wine bar
Next Door. “They’re receiving beautiful hospitality, and they can then
pay that hospitality forward,” says Perry.
At the moment Hope Hospitality Foundation is partnering with other
charities like OzHarvest to get the meals to the people that need them
the most. “I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel and put vans on the
road. Ronni [Kahn] already has a great network of vans,” say Perry.
“It doesn’t matter how many meals we produce, there’s always going
to be a home for them.” Currently Hope is doing around 5000 meals
a week, and are hoping to increase to 10,000 meals a week in the
near future.
As Christmas rounds out the year, Perry encourages people to think
beyond their own table and pay it forward. “Go on the website and
give $10; that [will] feed five people,” says Perry. “It’s one thing to have
a beautiful spread for your own family, but to provide for others is
really something.” hopehospitalityfoundation.org.au

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN.

FINDING HOPE

PH0TOGRAPHY ANNA CRITCHLEY (AGRARIAN KITCHEN) & SEAN FENNESSY (THE CALILE). WORDS ALIX DAVIS (AGRARIAN KITCHEN).

Cooking classes
After an 18-month hiatus and a move down the road, the
Agrarian Kitchen Cooking School has reopened in its new
location at former mental health asylum Willow Court in New
Norfolk, just next door to its sister restaurant. Here you can
experience a day of picking fresh produce and, under the
tutelage of chef/owner Rodney Dunn, turn it into
a delicious three-course lunch. All the vegetables come
from the walled garden that used to be the exercise yard
adjacent to the ward. Now, it’s a fertile micro-climate that
serves as a haven for numerous herbs, vegetables and
even heritage wheat. Each student has their own cooking
station in the purpose-built kitchen and the menu could
include silverbeet dolma, cime di rapa with fresh fior di latte,
and rolled pork belly stuffed with fresh herbs. Expect to be
inspired to plant a kitchen garden of your own.
theagrariankitchen.com

THREE OF THE BEST

POOLSIDE DINING

News

1

The Calile, Fortitude Valley, Qld
One of the most aesthetic and recognisable
pools in the country boasts an easy, breezy
Greek-leaning menu, courtesy of Hellenika. Order
up fish wraps and Greek salad between dips in the
teal-blue 27-metre pool. thecalilehotel.com

2

Bannisters Pavilion, Mollymook, NSW
At this rooftop pool, bright Mediterranean eats
can be ordered straight to your deck chair.
Kick off with anchovies and prosciutto; before trying
a bowl of prawn linguine or perhaps a grilled haloumi
salad. bannisters.com.au

3

Oxford House, Paddington, NSW
This new secluded poolside oasis sits just off
Sydney’s Oxford Street. The pool bar menu has
fruit-spliced classics like Pomegranate Martinis and
Grapefruit Negronis, while kingfish sashimi, oysters
and fries can be eaten while basking in the sun.
oxfordhouse.com.au

2

3

Weber’s new Genesis gas barbecue
takes the heat out of the kitchen and
allows you to cook a restaurant
quality meal alfresco. Featuring
Weber’s largest and hottest sear
zone, an expandable top cooking
grill, a smokebox, night vision LED
lighting, and a side burner for
sautéing or boiling water, this
multi-tasking outdoor cooker is much
more than the humble barbecue you
grew up with. Rather, consider it your
one-stop outdoor cooking station.
$2499, weber.com/au

1
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

29

News

Clockwise from above:
a bedroom at qtQT Gold
Coast; the beach vibe of
the hotel; an alfresco
spread at QT.

30

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN GRAY.

SUITE ESCAPE
QT Gold Coast has undergone an extensive revamp and
also launched qtQT, its brand new hotel within a hotel. The
rooftop oasis sees standalone secluded luxury cabins, each
equipped with amenities from local luxe makers like robes
from I Love Linen, Noosa’s Saya Skincare amenities and
Harvest Clay ceramics from the Gold Coast. There’s also
a central alfresco dining space and outdoor kitchen, with
a wood-fired oven, smoker and Argentinian grill, from which
fiery eats will be the focus. The immersive new qtQT stay
is available to book for group stays or guests looking for
a night out with a difference. qthotels.com/gold-coast

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

S I G N AT U R E S TAY
From an Art Deco gem in Melbourne and an urban oasis in
Brisbane, to smart sustainability in New Zealand and historic
charm in Canberra, Collection by TFE Hotels offers unique
hotel stays with standout dining to match.

THE CALILE HOTEL
The Calile Hotel in the vibrant
James Street precinct is an oasis
of relaxed Palm Springs vibes.
Designed in warm pinks, custom
oak, marble, and brass finishes
by architects Richards & Spence,
the 175-room hotel offers a slice
of heaven in subtropical Brisbane.
Whether you linger by the pool
or indulge in a facial at KAILO
Medispa, The Calile offers a
sanctuary for body and mind. The
dining experiences at The Calile
are stellar; sip cocktails at Lobby
Bar, then choose from Simon
Gloftis’ standouts – Mediterranean
Hellenika, omakase-style Sushi
Room and classic SK Steak &
Oyster. Or wander down Ada Lane
for street-style Thai at Same Same
or Italian at Biànca. The Calile is
the place to be.
Clockwise from top
left: The Calile Hotel
Poolside Room and
Lobster Brioche
at Lobby Bar; The
Savoy Hotel on Little
Collins entrance and
Chef’s selection of
small plates at the
Alexander Bar.

Clockwise from left: The Libraries at The
Hotel Britomart and Oritz anchovies, Hapuka
taramasalata, Wood-fired flatbread and
yellow belly flounder at kingi; Signature
cocktail and interior at Chifley's Bar and Grill.

THE SAVOY HOTEL ON
LITTLE COLLINS
In an ode to its Art Deco past,
the 163-room Savoy Hotel on Little
Collins, refurbished by globally
renown architects, Woods Bagot, is a
sophisticated sanctuary in the heart of
Melbourne’s CBD. The hotel's elegant
multi-million-dollar refurbishment is
a nod to the grand Hotel Alexander it
once was in 1928 with its spectacular
marble lobby in a soothing grey and blue
palette with brass and timber accents.
Channel former guests, Jazz-era greats,
Louis Armstrong and Nat King Cole,
and stop in for the signature cocktail,
Richardson’s Dream, at The Alexander
Bar on the ground floor. With a prime
location in Melbourne, The Savoy Hotel
on Little Collins is an Art Deco gem
with boutique stores, restaurants,
and bars to explore at its doorstep.

THE HOTEL BRITOMART
Centrally located along waterfront
Auckland, a bustling cultural hub of
local designers, restaurants and bars,
The Hotel Britomart is as luxuriously
appointed as it is sustainably built.
Rated New Zealand's first 5 Greenstar rated hotel, the 99-room retreat
offers a tranquil city escape. Designed
by Cheshire Architects, The Hotel
Britomart is an exercise in both
sustainable architecture and local
craftsmanship in a muted palette that
conveys its sense of place through its
brick façade, bluestone and kauri
timber. Standard guest rooms feature
bespoke ceramics and minibars
stocked with local treats. For a deluxe
stay, book the expansive Poraenui
Suite, a glass pavilion on the rooftop
with a private terrace and city views
over Takutai Square. Dine at in-house
kingi, a Two Hat restaurant serving a
premium produce menu with a focus
on sustainably caught local seafood.

HOTEL KURRAJONG
CANBERRA
Built in 1926 by Commonwealth
architect, John Smith Murdoch,
the heritage-listed Hotel Kurrajong
Canberra offers stately accommodation
with exquisite Art Deco details. A walk
through the hotel’s hallowed hallways
adorned with portraits of politicians
past offers a glimpse of the nation’s
political history. The 147-room hotel,
refurbished in 2014, features a mix of
contemporary design with Art Deco
décor. The hotel’s Chifley’s Bar & Grill
pays homage to prime minister Ben
Chifley who lived here until his death
in 1951. Here guests dine on a seasonal
menu focused on regional produce
with wines to match. Follow Chifley’s
footsteps with the Chifley Experience;
a night in the Chifley Room, breakfast
for two, a restaurant credit, welcome
whisky and guided Chifley’s Walk to
the Museum of Australian Democracy.

For more visit collectionbytfehotels.com
Follow on IG @collectionbytfehotels

513 Striata™

Caesarstone
Porcelain.
A new point
of view.

caesarstone.com.au

Since 1987, Caesarstone has
inspired design freedom in millions
of homes worldwide.
Now, we’re introducing new porcelain
surfaces that expand our portfolio
of premium colours, leveraging
our legacy of craftsmanship and

innovation to give you even greater
flexibility, indoors and outdoors.
Caesarstone Porcelain marks a leap
in technology, functionality, and
design with surfaces that deliver a
new degree of durability, strength,
and beauty in the heart of your home.

Five of a kind

Vanilla ice-cream

GT T
E
AM

ITE

ELATO
Made with whole Tongan
vanilla beans to create
a sweet and vibrant
marshmallow-like flavour
profile, this ice-cream
sings sweetly on its own,
or would work well
with summer berries
or stone fruit.
$10.30 for 475ml,
colab.com.au

LICK
Channelling nostalgic
vibes, this sweet scoop
offers a buttery flavour
reminiscent of a milk bar
or cinema choc top treat.
Made in Brisbane, the
ice-creamery is best
known for the Ekka’s
much-loved sundaes.
$13.99 for 1L,
harrisfarm.com.au

COYO
This thick coconut
milk-based tub offers
a rich dairy-free
alternative. The creamy
coconut undertones
meld well with vanilla,
making a summer
holiday treat that’s best
served straight up.
$10 for 500ml,
coles.com.au

UR

GELISTA
Technically a gelato,
which is churned at
a slower pace and
made with more milk,
Gelista’s vanilla bean
edition is ideal to have
on hand for a quick
and impressive
summer dessert star.
$8.99 for 570ml,
panettamercato.com.au

FAVO

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

It’s no wonder this flavour is a classic – it’s
perfect on its own or with pud. Scoop it up.

DUE SOUTH
Proving vanilla isn’t
boring, this bright
ice-cream showcases
premium Tasmanian dairy.
Its smooth, scoop-able
texture makes it the
perfect companion to
warm Christmas pudding,
panettone or mince pies.
$11.99 for 1L,
harrisfarm.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

35

E
H
T

CH
KIT

EN GARD
EN
ER

Sweet cherries
Hard to grow but worth the effort, these juicy fruits
define Christmas, writes SIMON RICKARD.

W

ILLUSTRATION ADOBE STOCK IMAGES.

hen I was a boy, my father brought home a box of
“Ron’s Seedling” cherries every year, in those exciting
weeks before the Christmas holidays. He probably
thought that this big box would last for weeks. But
my brother and I would sit on the floor in front of the fridge, with
the door open, feeding cherries into our mouths one after the other,
like monkeys. This delectable treat marked the beginning of school
holidays, and a summer full of adventures.
“Sweet cherries” are not to be confused with their cousins the “sour
cherries”. Sour cherries are smaller, harder, and brighter red. Their dense
flesh and tangy, almond-cherry flavour is not pleasant eaten fresh, but
they are the superior cooking cherry. I will deal with them another time.
Sweet cherries are native to Europe and North Africa, from Norway
in the north to Morocco in the south, and eastwards to Iran.

Grow your own

Simon is a
professional
gardener,
author and
baroque
bassoonist.
@simon_rickard

Archaeological studies show that wild cherries
have been eaten since the earliest times, although
Pliny asserts that cherries were unknown in Italy
until Lucullus brought them back from Pontus
– now in Turkey – in 74 BCE. Perhaps he was
referring to newly cultivated varieties of cherry,
with larger, juicier fruits. Cherries appear
frequently in European art. The Elizabethans
mention them in love sonnets and madrigals. The
Dutch masters painted them in still lifes. Itinerant
cherry vendors feature in paintings over several
centuries. Their cry “cherry ripe!” is still
recognisable to us today, although the profession
itself is long gone.
The 20th century saw an explosion of new
cherry cultivars, including “Ron’s Seedling”, bred
in Australia’s cherry capital, Young, New South
Wales, in 1928. America’s favourite cherries are
“Bing” and “Van”. Their progeny “Rainier”,
which appeared in 1952, is unusual for its yellow
fruits, flushed red, with pale, delicately flavoured
flesh. “Rainier” is sometimes available in Australia
during our winter, imported from the USA.
If you want to grow cherries at home, be
prepared for a challenge. There is a reason why
cherries are relatively expensive to buy. Even for
professional growers, there is no guarantee of
a saleable crop from year to year. Cherries are
among the most sickly of all fruit trees, prone to
many maladies, such as bacterial canker, silver

leaf fungus, pear and cherry slug, and black
cherry aphids. To remain healthy, cherry trees
require an annual spraying regime, even under
organic growing systems.
Have you ever wondered how “cherry pickers”
got their name? Cherry trees grown on their own
roots can be huge – up to 10 metres in height.
Even when they are grafted onto a dwarfing
rootstock, a “dwarf” cherry tree can be five
metres in height. Dwarf cherries can be tamed
further by pruning them in late summer rather
than in winter, and by training them into
restricted forms such as “bush trees” or “fans”.
Most cherries require pollination by
a different variety. However a few, such as the
Canadian cultivars “Stella”, “Simone” and
“Sunburst”, are self-fertile, so choose those
varieties for backyard gardens.
Cherries’ scientific name, Prunus avium, means
the “bird plum”. Birds love the fruits, so make sure
you net your trees as soon as they finish flowering,
or the birds will get them all, long before they are
fully ripe. Any rain at harvest time will cause the
fruits to crack, and develop brown rot.
With those pitfalls in mind, you might simply
choose to buy a box to enjoy during their short,
joyous season in the lead up to summer holidays,
sparing a thought for the dedicated orchardists
who grow this succulent delicacy on our behalf. 

If you want to grow
cherries at home, be
prepared for a challenge.
Cherries are among the
most sickly of fruit trees,
prone to many maladies.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

37

C
QUI K W

D WIT
H

OR

H U GH
B ON N E V I L L E
The Downton Abbey star on filming
dinner parties, oysters for Christmas,
and writing his new memoir.

Interview HANNAH-ROSE YEE

A

Memories

Shucking oysters. That’s historically been my
go-to Christmas activity, because I’m not a
natural cook. I insist on Christmas stockings and
the rituals of making sure that Santa is looked after.
My wife thinks it’s ridiculous, my 20-year-old son
thinks it’s ridiculous, but I insist on it. I’m a great
believer in those rituals because, let’s face it,
Christmas can be a time of great tension, so it does
lighten the mood a bit.

burning and it was just hot in there. Every time we
had fish on the menu – and the menus were all
beautifully calligraphed and laid out, and discussed
with the historical advisor who looked up recipes.
But from then on, if it was salmon on the menu, it
was always chicken, because it didn’t honk quite
so badly by the afternoon.

We were lucky if we could get away with half
a day [filming the dinner parties in Downton
A literary agent called me out of the blue six or
Abbey]. There was one scene that took three days.
seven years ago and said, “I think you should
They’re just technically complicated. Someone
write a comic novel,” and I said,
calculated that if you put them end
On Downton
“I don’t think I have a comic
to end we did something like three
novel, I can hardly write my own
Abbey ... there was and a half months, 24/7 in that room.
name.” And he said, “Will you at
It’s a very nice room to be in, and
a
particular
skill
in
least write some memories of
a nice problem to have, but there
knowing
when
to
working in the business over
was a celebratory feel when we did
30 years?” He’d ring every
eat or what to eat. the last one, put it that way.
three months and say, “How’s
it going?”
I was always a fan of the breakfast.
We had this great cook who did fantastic sausages,
Finally, my son shamed me into it. He locked
and I got fatter and fatter eating sausages take
himself away in an Airbnb hut in Switzerland and
after take. No little innocent bowl of grapefruit for
he sent me a screenshot of his word count and
Lord Grantham, he was straight into the sausages
said, “How many words have you written today
and scrambled eggs!
Dad?” The next day I called the literary agent and
said give me a deadline.
I remember I was picking up my then nine-yearold son from school and this lad in the
The writing was fuelled by good old English tea.
playground said to me, “I don’t like that Thomas,”
And sometimes there was the incentive of “If
and thinking, wow! The demographic for this thing
I keep going until six o’clock, then I can have
is so broad. The teenage girls particularly were
a vodka on the rocks”. That sort of thing. I’m
tuning in because they loved the sisters and they
a very humble eater at home. I love soup, so I’ll
wanted to get into their world. And it’s still growing,
drink soup till the cows come home.
it’s still being rewatched. During lockdown a lot of
people rewatched it and found solace in it.
The great secret [to eating on camera] is don’t, if
you can possibly help it, because the continuity is
Like any actor, I love being paid to go abroad,
a nightmare and you always end up eating way too
so that’s always been a treat. I’ve filmed in France
much of something. It might have been a nice idea
once or twice and there’s that civilised thing –
at the time but after the 13th experience you might
I think it’s in the union contract – you break for
not feel the same way about it. Notting Hill was
lunch. I enjoyed that touch of everyone sitting
a very formative experience for me eating the
down together. We did that when we filmed the
brownies.
second Downton movie in the south of France last
year, we did pause for lunch and eat all together.
On Downton Abbey, where we did an awful lot
Often you’re scurrying away to different corners of
of dining room scenes, there was a particular skill
a film set, but there was a sense of congregation,
in knowing when to eat or what to eat. Early on, it
which is what the best meals are always about. 
was learnt that having fish as the food was not
Hugh Bonneville’s memoir Playing Under the Piano:
a good idea, because it was fine at 8am but by
From Downton to Darkest Peru (Little Brown, $34.99)
3pm it was not smelling great, especially when
is on sale now.
you’ve got blacked out windows and candles
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

39

CK LOO

374 Murray St,
North Hobart, Tas
ogeehobart.com.au
CHEF Matt Breen
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Thur-Sun
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Walk-ins only.
VERDICT
Small but mighty.
Hobart,
Tas

OGEE
This Euro-style bistro is a welcome arrival to the
Hobart scene, writes ALIX DAVIS.

Q

ueuing for a table at
a restaurant isn’t usually my
idea of a good time, but
when it’s the first afternoon of
daylight savings and Hobart has
turned on a balmy spring evening,
loitering on an inner-city corner
chatting with other soon-to-be-diners
is not a bad way to spend 20 minutes.
When our turn comes, we’re
welcomed into the darkly chic interior
of Ogee (award-winning wine bar
Sonny’s new sibling) and have an
Americano with house-made chinotto
in our hands before you know it.
With 26 seats, Ogee is designed
for couples, or perhaps four very
close friends, with tables that
encourage intimacy and conversation
over a Gatsby-esque playlist, that
switches to ’70s disco as the night
rolls on. Drop in for a glass of wine
and a small plate or settle in for the
evening and work your way through
the perfectly curated menu and
wine list.

42

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

We plan on the latter and prepare our
palates with generous slices of
sourdough served with a swipe of sea
urchin butter. The menu writing is
understated and “raw beef, pommes
dauphine” is a bowl of hand-cut beef
topped with a glistening egg yolk and
served with piping hot bites of fried
mashed potato, lightened with choux
pastry. The beef is meltingly tender
and, combined with the potato,
makes a perfect mouthful. The
menu changes weekly (ours is date
stamped) and this week features
tender stalks of sweet white asparagus
in a velvety mussel velouté and
buttery braised leeks topped with
a sauce gribiche and sitting on a bed
of freshly made, still warm ricotta.
Chef Matt Breen is known for
conjuring up delicious plates from two
hotplates and a toaster at Sonny and
it’s a pleasure to see him in action in
a full kitchen here. Main courses
tonight include two house-made
pastas, pan-fried Spanish mackerel

and a golden-crusted veal schnitzel.
Plump nubs of sautéed gnocchi are
a standout – enveloped in a cream
sauce and scattered with assorted
mushrooms purchased that morning
from the Farmgate Market just a few
streets away.
The knowledgeable front-ofhouse team, helmed by Rachelle
Guastella, is on hand for drinks
recommendations. The list is a mix of
Tasmanian, Australian and European
offerings, with plenty available by the
glass, as well as some classic
cocktails. And the name? It comes
from an architectural term meaning
an S-shaped line or moulding and is
the brainchild of Guastella.
The dessert menu is brief and
to the point. A wedge of aged
Tasmanian cheddar, a scoop of
brioche ice-cream or, our choice,
a slice of dense, almost pudding-like
orange cake topped with chinotto
fruit and swathed in a duck egg
bavarois. The citrus flavours are
reminiscent of the Americano that
started the evening and, as darkness
falls we reluctantly leave this glowing
suburban gem. 

Ogee’s Rachelle
Guastella and
chef Matt Breen.

PHOTOGRAPHY REMI CHAUVIN.

UI

K

Q

Review

Q

CK LOO
K

UI

Basement, 109 Edward
St, Brisbane, Qld
CHEFS Tim Scott and
Mitchell Chambers
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Tue-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS Essential.
VERDICT
Kaiseki-inspired
tastiness at its bold
best.
Brisbane,
Qld

E X H IB I T I ON
R E STAU R A NT
This creative omakase-inspired venue is a tribute
to everything that makes fine dining special,
writes FIONA DONNELLY.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHUNG.

E

ver wonder who that is on the
roof fixing hail damage? During
Covid in Queensland, it might
have been Exhibition Restaurant’s
co-owner Tim Scott. Tradie-turnedchef Scott returned to roof climbing to
fund Exhibition, his restaurant dream
(which he was building at the same
time). This is a chef-owner unafraid to
put it all on the line and work to see it
through.
The venue partly fills the basement
of a heritage building in Brisbane’s CBD.
As soon as you descend the street
art-adorned stairway, you’re welcomed
by Scott. Then, whether you choose
the premium or regular set menu,
a delightful volley of snacks arrives.
Opening morsels might include raw
Western Australian ama ebi shrimp,

slicked with a mellow dressing rich with
calamansi kosho and shiro shoyu,
plus a pâté-style spread, crafted from
abalone cooked in clarified butter,
then smoothed on Japanese shokupan
bread. An earthenware cup holds
a flavoursome duck dashi master
stock, to sip and savour between bites.
Petite tarts come out heaped with
local spanner crab, the delicate pastry
layered with an organic brown miso
studded with crisp buckwheat puffs to
add crunch. Baby cucumber boats are
decked with tiny sails of vegetables
and blooms, recalling a mini version of
French chef Michel Bras gargouillou,
an ode to whatever’s in season locally.
A buttery cashew toum is topped with
curls of dried scallop floss, creating an
innovative chip and dip combination,

The dining room
at Exhibition.
Left: aged wagyu
yakiniku, hispi
cabbage with soft
herb verde.

with snow peas for dunking.
Just when you reach sensory
overload, larger courses start to land.
Sashimi southern rock lobster –
beautifully poised and paired with blue
fin akami, a leaner cut from the tuna’s
shoulder, the dish zinged up with ruby
grapefruit, Cape gooseberry and oxalis,
the acid tamed by a vibrant dill oil.
A roasted crown of dry-aged duck is
just as notable. Its paper-thin skin is
bronzed, a crimson puddle of juniper
and beetroot-imbued gastrique, pooling
beneath. Grilled wagyu plays well with
a pungent sugarloaf slaw and an
anise-forward salsa verde sauce.
Everything at this 24-seater, from
flatware to ceramics, is bespoke. The
venue’s aim is to showcase artisans
and spotlight produce harvested in its
prime. Co-owner Michael Nguyen is the
owner of Thai Hoa Grocer, a providore
supplying the city’s top restaurants – so
Exhibition is well connected.
Jemima Phillips is a warm presence
on the floor and her wine list favours
distinctive expressions of the varieties
featured – a surprising 2013 New
Zealand Grüner Veltliner, for example,
or an aged Spanish sparkling by
Raventós, or a Jura savagnin.
A knockout pre-dessert yoghurt
gelato arrives in a mandarin syrup and
shiso oil, and then dessert comes out.
It’s a comforting pairing of hazelnut
ganache and gelato with frilly bronzed
artichoke chips. Petits fours in a custom
timber chest deliver a fine finish.
Maintaining balance is a crucial skill
for anyone who climbs roofs. It’s also
essential when you helm Exhibition. As
diners, we’re fortunate Scott negotiates
both roles with spirit and style. 

Review

Sydney,
NSW

K IL N
A rooftop party palace atop Sydney’s Ace Hotel
blends nostalgia with hope for better times ahead,
writes ALEXANDRA CARLTON.

I

miss 2019. Life was simpler.
Gentler. And Mitch Orr’s Jatz
cracker, even with its very 2022
update of an anchovy curl and a blob
of smoked butter, tastes like 2019 and
it made me very happy, very nostalgic
and very glad to have him back.
Orr is serving his signature Jatz
snack – made famous at his muchmissed wild ride Acme until its prepandemic closure – at his new home at
Kiln, the rooftop restaurant of the Ace
Hotel in Sydney’s Surry Hills. When you
know you’re making a bite everyone
will talk about, and will become the
Instagram emblem for your entire
establishment, you spend time getting
it right. And Orr gets it right. It’s a salty,
comforting crunch of good memories

44

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

– he smokes the butter in the ash of
the wood-fire grill – and I’m grateful
that my coeliac friend has to surrender
the second one to me.
There are plenty of hits here
beyond the Jatz. Orr’s LinkedIn profile
describes him as a chef who likes
cooking “dishes that divide people”
but you’d have rocks in your head if
you had any issues with his alfonsino
crudo – a fish that you don’t see raw
often, that he folds into a blush-pink
rosette with petals of peach on bright
yellow tomato jelly. Looks-wise it has
kids’ birthday party vibes and tastewise, it’s a triple threat of brine and
juice and savoury brilliance. A great
nugget of oyster mushroom isn’t as
pretty, but its heavenly fermented

onion glaze made my eyes glaze with
bliss. And fillets of coral trout get
a good kiss of char, and a dreamy
goddess-green pistachio dressing.
The menu – split into what I was
told was four small-to-large sections –
has some progression issues; the bit
where I sourced the crudo was also
home to a tartare, a carpaccio, and
stracciatella and we were encouraged
to order “at least two”, which felt like
overkill from the “cold/wet” food group.
I’m also not sure what a bowl of plain
koshihikari rice is doing plonked in the
middle of the veg area. But whatever
you get is exceptional so just choose
what looks tasty, keep the wine coming
from Mike Bennie’s boisterously
good-time list and you’ll do fine.
The fun’s happening off the table
here as well. There’s an energy to Kiln
that feels very global with its blingy
cityscape views, ’70s décor and
’90s hip-hop soundtrack – Monty
Koludrovic’s LA hotspot Grandmaster
Recorders comes to mind. When the
weather calls for it, the retractable roof
will crank open on the terraces and
the party will almost certainly ratchet
up several more notches. That feels
like exactly what Sydney needs right
now. Perhaps the 2020s are going to
be okay after all. 

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO.

Snack time at Kiln.
Right: city views
from Kiln. Below:
alfonsino crudo,
peach and tomato
jelly. Opposite: the
dining room.

Q

CK LOO

K

UI

47-53 Wentworth Ave,
Sydney, NSW
kilnsydney.com
CHEF Mitch Orr
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Tue-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.
VERDICT Tonight
you’re gonna party
like it’s 2019.

Review

Left: March chef Peter
Gunn and sommelier
Hayley McCarthy.
Below: cocktail hour
at March.

A clever new wine bar in Collingwood offers exciting
pours and applause-worthy snacks to match,
writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

A

46

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

socks off. The approach is how the
best of these type of establishments
do it; taking the wine part of the
equation seriously while paying equal
attention to the enjoyment factor.
But March is also a wine bar by
chef Peter Gunn, the creative palate
behind next door’s always inventive
restaurant Ides, and so that means
both highly inventive and applauseworthy snacks – superb mussels
pickled with green chillies and
vinegar and served with crisp garlic
chips, potato simmered in kelp stock
and teamed with a garlic-infused
cream, fat Goolwa pipis steamed with
garlic, leek and butter and then
deglazed with sake – and focused
attention on the interior design.
Here that means a thoughtfully
dark, handsome and intimate

UI

CK LOO
K

word of advice: by all means,
check out sommelier Hayley
McCarthy’s drinks list at new
Collingwood wine bar March. It’s
among the cleverest, most interesting
short lists in town with small producer
Loire Valley chenin blanc and primitivo
from Puglia rubbing shoulders with
perfectly chilled and diluted prebatched Martinis, almost spiritual sake
from places like Kyoto and Hiroshima
and excellent vintage Armagnac.
The list is a great entry point but
do not miss out on the opportunity to
converse with McCarthy herself. Not
only is she one of those rare wine
unicorns who can chat about the
stuff without being insufferably
boring, but she’ll always have
something delicious on pour that’s
not listed and might just knock your

90 Smith St,
Collingwood, Vic
marchmelbourne.
com.au
CHEF Peter Gunn
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Wed-Sat;
Lunch and dinner Sun
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended.
VERDICT
Sophisticated,
delicious and clever.

PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA NEWMAN.

MARCH

Q

Collingwood,
Vic

carpeted space, a compact 26 seats
and a central bar, low with a wide
marble top, comfortable timber stools,
slate-coloured walls and a glasswalled wine cellar at the rear of the
room. The striped carpet runs from
the floor up the front of the bar,
adding both visual and acoustic
value to the room.
The Japanese bar model is
obviously at play at March but dishes
like the superb, tender-sticky sweet
and sour quail dusted with prickly ash
(a Sichuan pepper and salt mix) and
a Cape Grim bavette marinated for
24 hours in a marinade of black
pepper, honey and soy before being
grilled and served with puffed wild
rice also underline its modern
Melbourne wine bar roots too.
Every dish on the menu is
snack-sized but can be easily
combined into a dinner-sized amount
of food, which is something worth
paying attention to because March is
one of those places where a quick
drink can easily morph into making
a night of it, an inevitable by-product
of a place offering truly interesting
food and booze alongside great
service and atmosphere. 

@luigibormioliau
Luigi Bormioli Australia
Luigi Bormioli Australia

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Grilled Akoya with koji butter,
finger lime and wakame

SEA CHANGE
Summer heralds a new hero ingredient on three restaurant
menus across Australia with the Leeuwin Coast Akoya front
and centre with its unique flavour profile and versatility.

Aiden Stevens, Bentley
Restaurant and Bar
“It’s a unique product that is still
quite new in the market and it’s
exciting to explore all its possible
applications on our menus.”

BENTLEY RESTAURANT AND BAR
Innovative chef Aiden Stevens of Sydney’s culinary landmark Bentley
Restaurant and Bar has introduced the Leeuwin Coast Akoya to his menu
with a fantastic response from diners. Stevens, who is renowned for using
quality local ingredients in an inventive way, believes the Western Australian
delicacy, sustainably grown in the pristine waters off Albany, ticks a number
of boxes. “First and foremost, they’re delicious, which is always a great start!
They're also sustainably grown, locally produced and a versatile ingredient,”
explains Stevens. The unique flavour profile of the Akoya, which Stevens
describes as having “a flavour reminiscent of clams, with the brininess and
minerality of an oyster, and an underlying sweetness of a scallop” features in
two of his most recent dishes. Stevens serves raw Akoya in its shell with charred
pickled grapes coated in macadamia milk and covered in shaved macadamia
and phlox flowers. Another iteration showcases the Akoya’s versatility: “We
cover the Akoya in koji butter then roast it over binchotan coals. It is then
seasoned with a nori and lime leaf oil, wakame and pearls of finger lime.”

MONTALTO
Set on its own winery estate in Victoria,
the family-owned Montalto celebrates
heirloom produce from its own kitchen
gardens as well as seasonally driven, locally
sourced Mornington Peninsula produce
on its set menu. The opportunity to add
the Leeuwin Coast Akoya to the local
oysters on the menu was twofold: to have
a completely new variety of shellfish on
the menu and to be able to serve it heated,
rather than raw. In addition to its versatility
and unique flavour, the allure of the Akoya
for Montalto’s kitchen team also lies in its
beauty: “With its delicate mouthfeel and
Matt Wilkinson,
burst of seawater flavour, the Akoya is a
Montalto
great addition to the collection of oysters
“I think it’s wonderful
we already have. Not to mention how
that we can incorporate
stunning the shell is.” Montalto’s chef
incredible Leeuwin
prepares the Akoya in two ways that
Coast Akoya alongside
produce sourced
highlight the opportunity to serve it cooked
right here on the
as an alternative to raw. In its version of
Mornington Peninsula.”
kilpatrick, the kitchen showcases Montalto’s
wines with wood-fired Akoya served with
prosciutto and Montalto Estate chardonnay vinaigrette.
The second dish sees Akoya delicately fried in tapioca
starch, served with celery aïoli and fried celery leaf.
Fried Akoya with celery aioli
BIB & TUCKER
In keeping with its “love your locals” ethos, Perth
favourite Bib & Tucker has introduced the Leeuwin
Coast Akoya to its modern Australian menu that
showcases the best of the west coast’s seasonal produce.
Executive chef Scott Bridger draws inspiration for his
coastal diner from locally and sustainably sourced
produce, such as the Akoya. “WA is spoilt for choice
when it comes to sustainable seafood, but the Akoya is
a product that is consistently great. I think we have a
special relationship with food if we can understand its
provenance,” says Bridger. With its winning qualities
of flavour and versatility, adding it to the menu was a
no-brainer. “The flavour of the Akoya is truly unique.
A mix of clams, abalone and scallops, it holds up to
big flavours or can sit delicately prepared with simple
ingredients,” he says. Bib & Tucker’s Akoya dish is
“coastal and local”. “The Akoya is blanched in dashi to
firm up, then placed back in its shell. It is then quickly
roasted in our wood-fire oven with a seaweed XO and
finished with a sesame and smoked Akoya emulsion.”

Baked Akoya with seaweed XO,
sesame and finger lime

Scott Bridger,
Bib & Tucker
“The Akoya is a unique
and fabulous product
from the pristine
waters we have
here in WA.”

Semifreddo
The lesser known sibling of gelato makes for
a cool and colourful Christmas centrepiece.
Plus, it’s easy to prepare ahead.

50

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Masterclass

S

emifreddo is little more than three core ingredients: whipped sweetened egg
whites, cream for richness and chocolate for flavour. Our preferred method, and
the one used here, starts with whole eggs, whipped to a rich aerated zabaglione.
The need for an ice-cream machine is replaced by whipping ingredients to envelop
air, which along with sugar prevents ice crystals forming, creating a pleasant semi-frozen
mouthfeel for which the dessert gets its name. Our flavourings, while decidedly nontraditional are delicious and perfectly in tune with Australian summer entertaining.

RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS. STYLING AMBER DE FLORIO. WAVE COUPE GLASSES FROM FAZEEK.

2

Step by step

1

Place 300gm finely chopped white
couverture chocolate in a heatproof
bowl. Using a 600ml carton of thickened
cream, bring 125ml (½ cup) cream and
1 tsp vanilla bean paste to the boil in
a small saucepan; pour over chocolate;
stir until smooth. Stir in 2 tbsp lemon juice,
2 tsp finely grated lemon zest and ¼ tsp
ground cloves. Beat remaining cream and
200ml crème fraîche with an electric
mixer until soft peaks form; refrigerate
until required.

2

Place 4 eggs, 110gm (½ cup) caster
sugar in a heatproof bowl over
a saucepan of simmering water. Using
hand-held beaters, whisk continuously
until mixture is thick and pale and has
tripled in volume (8 minutes). To test that
mixture is sufficiently beaten, drop a little
in a figure of eight, it should hold its
shape for a few seconds.

4

5

3

6

Grease a 2.75-litre bundt tin or other
mould. Using a large metal spoon,
fold egg mixture into chocolate mixture,
followed by whipped cream.

4

Using a 250gm jar wild hibiscus
flowers in syrup, remove 6 flowers
and slice thinly. Take 300gm raspberries
and 100gm pistachios and divide into
three. Spoon one-third of semifreddo
mixture into prepared mould and layer
with sliced hibiscus, raspberries and
pistachios. Repeat twice more with
remaining semifreddo, raspberries and
pistachios. Cover and freeze overnight.

5

Meanwhile for base, finely chop
100gm Scotch Finger biscuits.
Process 125gm pistachios until finely
chopped. Combine nuts, biscuits and
100gm browned melted butter in a bowl.
Press firmly over top of semifreddo.
Return to the freezer until set (2-3 hours).

To serve, dip the base of the mould
into warm water briefly then invert
onto a chilled serving plate. Top with
sauce, if using (see tip), remaining
hibiscus flowers, and extra raspberries. 
Note Wild hibiscus flowers in syrup are
available at select delicatessens and
liquor stores. Alternatively, top the
semifreddo with amarena cherries
in syrup.

FOR THE SAUCE

To make sauce, process 200gm
raspberries with drained hibiscus
syrup (reserved from candied
flowers, about 80-100ml) until
smooth, strain through a fine sieve
into a saucepan. Add 150ml water
and 150gm sugar over high heat,
bring to the boil and simmer
rapidly until syrupy (8-10 minutes).

Taste The Wild
Just like wine has terroir, the taste of the environment in the grape,
so too every Australian Wild Prawn has merroir, the taste of the
wild ocean and rugged, remote place of origin. Meet the hardworking
people who catch your Australian Wild Prawns and discover
the region and species right for your style of cooking.

Scan to discover
your species

australianwildprawns.com.au

You get more with

Australian
Wild
Prawns

DECEMBER

From easy-to-prepare dishes for entertaining to simple
suppers, these everyday recipes keep things fast and fresh.

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN FREE

DAIRY FREE

Photography JAMES MOFFATT Styling LUCY BUSUTTIL
Recipes JESSICA BROOK Food preparation KATHY KNUDSEN

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

53

Everyday

Beef carpaccio, fig and fennel salad
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS FREEZING)

PREPARE AHEAD
For a fuss-free starter,
sear and chill beef
beforehand, ready to
slice and serve when
guests arrive.

54

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

600 gm piece beef fillet, trimmed
1 baby fennel, trimmed, sliced on
a mandolin
3 figs, cut into thin wedges
1 cup (loosely packed) picked
watercress sprigs
2 tsp pink peppercorns, crushed
DRESSING

60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
1 tbsp finely grated ginger
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
2 tbsp Sherry vinegar

1 Heat a large non-stick frying pan
over high heat. Drizzle beef with oil
and season to taste. Cook beef,
turning occasionally, until just seared
(5-6 minutes).
2 Transfer beef to a tray and cool
slightly. Roll beef tightly in plastic wrap
and freeze until firm (2-3 hours).
3 Meanwhile, for dressing, heat oil in
a small saucepan over low heat until just
warmed through (30 seconds). Place
ginger and shallot in a small heatproof
bowl; pour hot oil over. Add vinegar and
stir to combine. Season to taste.
4 Thinly slice beef across the grain and
arrange on a platter. Top with fennel,
figs and watercress. Serve drizzled with
dressing. Scatter with peppercorns.

FLAVOUR TIP

Stracchino and crushed pea bruschetta
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 6 MINS

200 gm frozen peas, thawed
1 tbsp lemon-infused extra-virgin
olive oil
3 tsp Sherry vinegar
1 oxheart tomato (400gm), chopped
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
1 green tomato, chopped
¼ cup (loosely packed) mint leaves
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
1 small sourdough baguette, sliced
150 gm stracchino, sliced
2 tbsp lemon juice
Baby rocket and red vein sorrel,
to serve
1 For crushed peas, place peas in
a small food processor with lemoninfused oil and vinegar; pulse until
coarsely crushed. Season to taste.

2 Combine oxheart tomato and shallot
in a small bowl. Season to taste and
set aside to marinate (5 minutes).
3 For green tomato-mint oil, combine
green tomato, mint and oil in a small
blender. Blend until smooth and season
to taste.
4 Preheat oven grill to high. Grill bread
until one side is golden (1-2 minutes).
Turn bread over, brush with tomato-mint
oil and grill until golden (1-2 minutes).
Top bread with stracchino and grill until
just melted (1-2 minutes).
5 Drizzle toasts with combined lemon
juice and remaining tomato-mint oil.
Top with crushed peas, oxheart tomatoes
and cracked pepper. Scatter with rocket
and sorrel, to serve. ➤

For an extra hit of umami,
add a tin of chopped
white anchovies to
the tomatoes.

Heirloom carrots and feta with
carrot-top dressing
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

1
2
60
60
¼
1
2
1
1
½
55

USE IT ALL
This recipe uses carrots
from top to tail, but if
you’re not using heirloom
carrots with greenery, you
can add parsley, basil or
any other leftover herbs.

56

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

bunch heirloom carrots (370gm)
tbsp honey
ml (¼ cup) Sherry vinegar
ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for brushing
cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley
tbsp baby capers, finely chopped
tsp finely chopped preserved
lemon rind
block firm feta (200gm)
cup (loosely packed) baby
rocket leaves
cup (loosely packed) mint leaves
gm (⅓ cup) smoked almonds,
coarsely chopped

1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. Trim green
tops off carrots, wash and reserve
leaves. Scrub carrots and halve large
carrots lengthways.
2 Place carrots on an oven tray lined
with baking paper. Drizzle with honey
and 1 tbsp each vinegar and oil. Season
to taste and roast until golden and
tender (15 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, for dressing, finely chop
1 (loosely packed) cup of carrot leaves
and place in a bowl with parsley, capers,
preserved lemon and remaining vinegar
and oil. Stir to combine and season
to taste.
4 Heat a char-grill pan over mediumhigh heat. Brush feta with extra oil and
char-grill, turning once, until golden
(4-6 minutes). Cut feta in half diagonally.
5 To serve, place rocket and mint
on serving plates. Top with feta and
carrots, spoon over dressing and
scatter with almonds.

MIX IT UP
Blue cheese and walnut
would work well here,
in place of the Manchego
and pistachios.

Tomato and ricotta
tart with crisp garlic
and pistachios
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS

375 gm butter puff pastry (we prefer
Carême all-butter puff pastry)
300 gm firm ricotta, drained
60 gm Manchego, finely grated
1 tbsp finely grated lemon rind
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 egg, separated
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced on
a mandolin
35 gm (¼ cup) pistachios, chopped
2 tsp Sherry vinegar
500 gm mixed heirloom tomatoes, sliced
and quartered
1 cup baby rocket
¼ cup tarragon sprigs
1 Preheat oven to 200˚C fan-forced.
Place pastry on a oven tray lined with
baking paper. Using a small sharp knife,
score a 2cm border on the pastry and
prick inside the border with a fork.
2 Combine ricotta, Manchego, lemon
rind, mustard and egg white in a bowl.
Season to taste. Brush pastry border
with egg yolk. Add remaining egg yolk
to the ricotta mixture; stir to combine
and spread inside the border. Bake until
golden and pastry is cooked through
(20-25 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp oil in a small
frying pan over medium heat. Add garlic,
cook until just turning golden (1 minute).
Add pistachios; remove from heat,
season and set aside to cool.
4 Whisk together remaining oil and
vinegar in a bowl. Add tomatoes and
rocket; toss to combine and season.
Top tart with tomato salad and pistachio
mixture. Scatter with tarragon. ➤

Everyday

MIX IT UP

Grain salad with
dukkah and pickled
pomegranate
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 25 MINS
(PLUS PICKLING, COOLING)

60
1
2
60
500
¼
6
100
1

ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
golden shallot, finely chopped
tbsp golden raisins, chopped
gm each barley, tri-colour quinoa and
freekeh, rinsed
ml vegetable stock, heated
cup each finely chopped dill, flat-leaf
parsley and mint
baby radishes, thinly sliced
gm sheep’s milk feta, crumbled
tbsp dukkah
Dill sprigs and mint leaves, to serve
PICKLED POMEGRANATE

2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 small pomegranate, arils removed
1 Heat oil in a deep frying pan over
medium-high heat. Add shallot and
raisins, cook until softened (3-4 minutes).
Add grains and stir to coat well in oil
mixture, add stock and 100ml boiling
water, season to taste and bring to the
boil. Reduce heat to low, cover with a
tight-fitting lid or foil and cook, without
uncovering, until grains are tender (25
minutes). Remove from heat and stand
for 5 minutes without uncovering.
2 Meanwhile, for pickled pomegranate,
combine vinegar, sugar and 2 tsp salt in
a small bowl. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add
pomegranate arils and set aside.
3 Transfer grains to a large bowl, set
aside to cool. Add herbs and toss
to combine.
4 Transfer grain salad to a serving
platter; top with radishes and feta.
Spoon over dressing, sprinkle with
dukkah and scatter with dill and mint,
to serve.

58

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Instead of baby radishes,
substitute summer
veggies such as zucchini,
asparagus or patty
pan squash.

MAKE IT A MEAL
For a more substantial dish,
stir-fry prawns in sesame oil
and garlic and toss through
the noodles.

Asparagus and soba noodle salad
with furikake pine nuts
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS

200 gm soba noodles
1 bunch thick asparagus spears,
trimmed, thinly sliced on a mandolin
2 zucchini, thinly sliced on a mandolin
2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted
1 tbsp furikake
1 long green chilli, finely chopped
DRESSING

1
1
2
1

tbsp each shiro (white) miso paste
tbsp maple syrup
tbsp lemon juice
tbsp sesame oil

1 Cook noodles in a large saucepan of
simmering salted water until just tender
(4 minutes). Place asparagus and
zucchini in a colander. Drain noodles
over asparagus and zucchini. Rinse
and toss under cold running water to
cool and separate noodles; transfer to
a large bowl.
2 Meanwhile, for dressing, whisk miso,
maple syrup, lemon juice and sesame oil
in a small bowl; season to taste. Pour
dressing over noodle mixture; gently
toss to coat.
3 Combine pine nuts, furikake and chilli
in a small bowl. To serve, divide noodles
between bowls and sprinkle with
furikake pine nuts. ➤

Everyday

Vincotto berry and amaretto cream trifles
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS SETTING)

100
110
1
500
400
3
250
300
1
40
225
6

ml vincotto
gm (½ cup) caster sugar
vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
gm raspberries and blackberries
ml clear apple juice
titanium-strength gelatine leaves,
softened in cold water for 5 minutes
gm crème fraîche
ml thickened cream
tbsp amaretto
gm (¼ cup) icing sugar, sifted
gm store-bought Madeira cake, cut
into 2cm cubes
amaretti biscuits, crushed

1 Combine vincotto, caster sugar, vanilla
bean pod and berries in a small saucepan
over medium heat. Cook until syrupy
(5 minutes). Transfer ½ cup vincotto
berry mixture to a bowl; refrigerate.
2 Add apple juice to remaining vincotto
berry mixture in the saucepan. Using
a hand-held blender, blend until smooth.
Return to medium heat and bring to
a simmer. Strain through a fine sieve into
a clean saucepan. Add gelatine; stir to
dissolve and set aside to cool. Divide
between six, 330ml-capacity glasses.
Refrigerate for 2 hours or until set.

We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and seafood from Notaras Fish Markets
in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.

3 Whisk crème fraîche, cream, amaretto,
icing sugar and vanilla bean seeds in an
electric mixer until soft peaks form.
4 Top jelly glasses with cake and
amaretto cream. Spoon over vincotto
berries in syrup. To serve, sprinkle with
amaretti biscuits. 

SUPERSIZE ME
For an impressive festive
dessert, simply assemble
in a large trifle dish and dress
with extra summer berries.

HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS

The more the

MERRIER
Pop the bubbles and set plenty of
places for a Christmas feast designed
to share with everyone you love

MAKE IT
S PA R K L E

’Tis the season to
make it special,
so feast your eyes
on our festive menu
with top drops
to match

KitchenAid® Blossom
Design Series Stand Mixer,
KSM180LEALB, $999

Raspberry and Pistachio Bombe
Alaska; Summer Berry Spritz

Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes
HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

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B U B B LY
AND BRIGHT

Seafood and champagne
or sparkling wine pair
beautifully on the
palate, making them
a perfect match
for an entrée

Cellar

MASTER
Ideal for entertaining,
the Vintec Single Zone Wine
Cabinet with 35-bottle capacity
keeps wine at the optimal
temperature for storage or
drinking. An externally housed
compressor, rubber shock
absorbers and vibrationabsorbing shelving help to
ensure your precious drops
stay safe and sound.

Grilled Seafood, Potato and
Watercress Salad with Fines Herbes

Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes

Stored

TO PERFECTION
Whether laying down a bottle for cellaring or
stocking up for festive celebrations, correct storage
is vital to ensure your wine’s quality and longevity.
The Vintec Single Zone Wine Cabinet is designed
to keep every bottle in optimal conditions with
the assistance of dimmed internal lighting, a
triple-glazed door, insulated side panels and UVprotected tinted glass. The sleek, compact design
offers efficient storage and quickly adjustable
temperature control to adapt from cellaring to
drinking temperature as needed.

Smoked Trout and Potato Rosti with Avocado
Cream and Baby Shiso; Champagne Royale
Cocktail Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes

These single-zone wine cabinets are ideal for
storing and cellaring for the short or long term

Vintec Underbench
Wine Cabinets,
VWS035SBB-X, $899ea

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online / mobile / instore

Take your
Christmas prep to
a new level with
the peeling and
dicing attachment
for speedy and
even results

Breville® Kitchen Wizz® Peel
& Dice, BFP820BAL, $749

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online / mobile / instore

F R E S H S TA R T

The crisp minerality
of riesling is a vibrant
match for the richness
of potato-based sides
and zesty salads

Prep

LIKE A PRO
Can you peel seven potatoes
in 15 seconds? The Breville®
Kitchen Wizz® Peel & Dice can.
The new peeling and dual
blade functions make short
work of tedious tasks while
the 12mm dicing attachment
chops with precision for
improved texture and more
even cooking.

Summer Potato, Baby
Bean and Snap Pea
Salad with Pistachio
Pesto; Orange and
Radish Salad with
Pomegranate, Herbs
and Lemon Labne

Find the recipes at
hn.com.au/recipes

Entertaining
WIZZ

Featuring powerful full performance, the Breville®
Kitchen Wizz® Peel & Dice easily takes on the
toughest jobs, from slicing and dicing to chopping
and grating, so you can prep your culinary
creations in a fraction of the time. Three chute
sizes allow for safe, precise delivery to the serrated
S-blade and variable slicing disc system, while the
generous 3.6L bowl has your big batches covered.
When you’re done, a handy storage box keeps the
Kitchen Wizz®, accessories and cleaning utensils
neatly packed away.

Air-fryer Spatchcocks with Prosciutto,
Pear and Pumpkin; Radicchio and Baby
Herb Salad with Vincotto Dressing;
Cucumber and Coriander Salad with
Sesame-Ginger Dressing and Spring Onion

Find the recipe at hn.com.au/recipes

CHRISTMAS
CHEERS

Match the main course’s
roast chicken with
chardonnay; full of
flavour yet elegant
enough to let the
salads shine

Fast

FRYING
When it comes to versatility,
the Ninja® Foodi™ XL Air Fry Oven
lives up to its name. It heats up in
just 90 seconds and offers a large
29L capacity to prepare multiple
servings and large dishes at
the same time. Ninja® True
Surround Convection technology
delivers quick and deliciously
crispy results.

Oven, bake
OR AIR FRY

Having every dish ready at once can be tricky when
it’s time for the main event but the Ninja® Foodi™
XL Air Fry Oven is like an extra pair of hands in the
kitchen. With a variable temperature range from
40 to 230°C and 10 different functions, it can air fry,
air roast, bake, toast, grill and cook a whole roast
quickly and easily. The high velocity fan, rear heat
source and Surround Air Flow deliver heat evenly for
crispy perfection.

A benchtop oven gives you the freedom to add
additional dishes to your entertaining repertoire

Ninja® Foodi™
XL Air Fry Oven,
DT200, $449

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online / mobile / instore

Cooks will love this gas cooktop
teamed with electric oven cavity
in a sleek, all-in-one design

Electrolux Multifunction
Pyrolytic Oven,
EFEP916DSE, $5199
HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

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P E R F E C T LY
PA I R E D

Raise a glass to a
glorious sweet-glazed
ham with the bright
berry notes of a
chilled pinot noir
or gamay

The ultimate
M U LT I TA S K E R
With spacious capacity and a
host of functions including a
smart food probe, steam bake
and pyrolytic self-cleaning,
the Electrolux Ultimate
Multifunction Oven is a true
multitasker. It even has an
Air Fry Plus feature that crisps
the surface of food for a fried
taste and texture using
superheated air.

Bourbon, Mustard and Maple-glazed
Ham; Roast Hasselback Potatoes with
Thyme and Vinegar Salt; Apple, Fennel
and Frisée Salad with Smoky Candied
Pecans and Buttermilk Dressing

Find the recipe at hn.com.au/recipes

Form and
FUNCTION

A practical pairing of gas cooktop and electric oven,
the Electrolux Ultimate Multifunction Pyrolytic Oven is
ideal for your main course masterpieces. Choose from
16 functions including fan cook, grill, dough proving
and steam bake for bakery-style cakes and homemade
bread. Precise temperature control and monitoring
ensure optimal cooking for all your dishes while the
sleek digital interface gives you control at the touch of a
finger. Clean-up is also a breeze with high-temperature
pyrolytic self-cleaning – no chemicals required.

Whisky Ginger Christmas Pudding with
Salted Maple Butter and Ginger Custard

Find the recipe at hn.com.au/recipes

RICH AND
ROBUST

Pair the sweet, aromatic
spice of a Pedro Ximénez
sherry with rich
puddings and fruit
cakes for an
indulgent finish

Stay

CONNECTED
With the Tefal® Cook4me touch
multicooker you can monitor the
progress of your pudding remotely
via the Tefal app* while you’re
doing other things. Prepare healthy,
filling midweek family meals
from 250 easy built-in recipes and
activate express mode for dishes in
under 10 minutes.
*Download required on a compatible device.

Speed up

R E S U LT S

The Tefal® Cook4me touch multicooker takes
convenience and versatility to the next level with
an easy touchscreen interface, recipe inspiration
and multi-function settings from baking to
braising in minutes with step-by-step instructions,
images and video tips. In-built wi-fi connectivity
allows automatic downloading and updating of
recipes from Tefal® and the Cook4me community,
and you can connect with the app to monitor
cooking remotely. Even cleaning up is easy with a
dishwasher-safe cooking bowl.

When there’s
pressure to
perform, this
multicooker
has a range
of solutions
at your
fingertips
with amazing
results in
mere minutes

Tefal® Cook4me
touch, CY9128, $699

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

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Finishing off the meal is made simple with
De’Longhi’s automated coffee selections – whether
it’s a latte, espresso or an elegant dessert

De’Longhi Eletta
Explore Automatic
Coffee Machine,
ECAM45055G, $2099

Almond and Lemon
Shortbread Stars

Find the recipe at
hn.com.au/recipes

A LIGHTER
NOTE

Desserts pair perfectly
with dessert wines
or mistelles with
notes of jasmine,
orange marmalade
and honeycomb

Espresso
PRONTO

The stylish De’Longhi Eletta
Explore’s intuitive colour
touchscreen features up to
42 customisable recipes,
and the LatteCrema Cool Milk
Carafe is perfect for iced
coffees. Time for tea? Simply
tap for hot water on demand,
with the Eletta Explore’s hot
water spout attachment.

Amaretto and Ricotta Affogato with
Almond Praline and Orange

Find the recipe at hn.com.au/recipes

Perfect
FINISH

Wrap up your festive feast with dessert and baristaquality coffee. From lattes to macchiatos, De’Longhi
has you covered with the Eletta Explore Automatic
Coffee Machine, featuring advanced thermoblock
technology that allows for customisable water
temperature. Choose from 13 adjustable grinding
settings and the clever LatteCrema micro-foam
technology to create velvety smooth crema for
perfect cappuccinos, whipping up everybody’s favourite
at the tap of a finger like the superstar host you are.

SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE
HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278
HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU

online | mobile | in store

Harvey Norman® stores are operated by independent franchisees.
Promotion ends 25/12/2022.

K
DRI N
PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE -JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

R

Y

N
A

E
M
B
ER
D

Stock up the bar for a wet, hot, Australian summer.
SAMANTHA PAYNE shares her sips of the season.

W

hen it comes to the ultimate December drinks list, the default is
usually to start with the classic thirst quenchers – a bright,
summery Provence rosé perhaps, or a G&T to loll around with
poolside. This December, though, La Niña threatens to throw
the eastern states a few soggy curve balls. On the bright side, that means
everything in the libation world is back on the table; textural and aromatic
whites with complexity and depth, light- to medium-bodied chilled reds that
will combat the humidity, and of course, bubbles – always. This is also the time
to stock the bar with the necessities (aka “the fun stuff”) should you have to
batten down the hatches and avoid the rain – think modern styles of Australian
whisky, mezcal and killer cocktails in cans. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

75

WHIT E S AND L IG H TS

2012 Moorilla Cloth Label Riesling,
Berriedale, Tas, $85
With all the bright lights and incredible artwork capturing
your attention, you’d be forgiven for forgetting Mona
has a winery on site, Moorilla. To celebrate its 50th
anniversary of winemaking the winery has produced
a limited release aged riesling, which shows the ageing
potential of the wine, as well as winemaker Conor van
der Reest’s exceptional skill. moorilla.com.au
2021 MMAD Chenin Blanc, Blewitt Springs, SA, $48
The medley of citrus notes combined with sea spray
minerality makes this wine your next go-to pairing for
chargrilled fish and octopus. The vines for this chenin
blance were planted back in 1964, resulting in huge
amounts of complexity and drive (especially for a first
release). mmadvineyard.com
2021 The Pawn Wine Co. Grüner Veltliner,
Adelaide Hills, SA, $30
There’s incredible potential for this
variety in Australia (originally hailing from
Austria), and the newest 2021 vintage
from producer Tom Keelan is as
impressive as always – the wine ticks all
the boxes, textural with a voluptuous
weight and mouthfeel, the MVP of any
soirée. An all-rounder that will suit casual
alfresco lunches in the sunshine or
a Sunday roast chicken dinner.
thepawn.com.au

2021 Cos Ramí Inzolia and Grecanico, Sicily, $55
This 50/50 blend of native Sicilian grapes Grecanico
and Inzolia is a white wine for robust red drinkers and
its white peach and jasmine notes will also keep
riesling lovers happy. sometimesalways.com.au
2021 Felton Road Bannockburn Chardonnay,
Central Otago, $90
The 2021 vintage marks the 25th anniversary of one of
Central Otago’s most beloved wineries. The current
release chardonnay has hints of mandarin, almond and
vanilla with a subtle saline note. It uses no more than 10
per cent new oak to maximise flavours and highlight
the mineral-driven texture. feltonroad.com

PI N KS AN D R E DS

2021 Gembrook Hill Estate Pinot Noir,
Yarra Valley, Vic, $58
Gembrook Hills boasts one of the oldest plantings of
pinot in the upper Yarra. The Estate pinot noir is made
from these vineyards. Elegance and finesse are always
at the forefront of the Gembrook Hill wines, with that
quintessential red-fruited character often seen in upper
Yarra pinot noir. gembrookhill.com.au
2022 De Iuliis Guardian Sparkling Rosé,
Hunter Valley, NSW, $30
Born from the desire to make something “fun and
dangerously drinkable”, Mike De Iuliis’ shiraz-based
sparkling rosé is precisely that. The wine is surprisingly
complex with myriad red fruits weaving through the
palate towards a bright and fresh finish. dewine.com.au
2021 Visner di Pergola Selezione Vino e Visciole
Montepulciano, Marche, $49
Sour cherries are harvested by hand from the wild

variety of Prunus Cerasus, native to the hilly
countryside of Pesaro. In accordance with strict ratios,
only three ingredients are used: sour cherries, local
wine (in this case, 100 per cent Montepulciano) and
sugar. After about four months of fermentation and
subsequent ageing, the cherries are removed and
the liqueur is ready, resulting in an aromatic red
and an unexpected match for tiramisù. visner.it
2020 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé, Provence, $65
No summertime drinks round-up is complete without
a rosé, especially when afternoon barbecues are on
the agenda. This one is lip-smackingly good (and
certified organic), with its blend of mourvedre, cinsault,
grenache and a small portion of clairette and ugni
blanc grapes. lepontwinestore.com
2020 Domaine Villet Arbois Poulsard, Jura, $50
We can’t talk chilled reds without including something
from Jura, the spiritual home of chilled reds and
textural whites. The rouge is a crunchy red-fruited
medium-bodied red that works superbly with
a cheeseburger. domaine-villet.com ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

77

SPA RK L IN G
NV Champagne Fleury Blanc de Noirs Brut, Côte
des Bar, $113
A 100 per cent pinot noir style of Champagne that is a
cult favourite among sommeliers and easily one of the
best value, most consistently enjoyable Champagnes.
The Fleury estate is widely recognised for pioneering
the Champagne region in biodynamic farming. If you
enjoy a more complex and robust style of
Champagne, this is for you. champagne-fleury..fr
NV Mumm Tasmania Brut Prestige, Tas, $40
Champagne house GH Mumm has been exploring
crafting sparkling wines in regions worldwide. Its first
Australian incarnation is a celebration of pinot noir
from Tasmania. The wine exhibits red currant and red
apple skin notes with a hint of dark spices like clove
and cassia bark, making it a match for Christmas
puddings and black forest cakes.
vintagecellars.com.au

2014 Bollinger La Grande Année, Reims, $260
The 2014 vintage was an excellent one for
Bollinger Champagne’s crown jewel. Crafted
with pinot noir and chardonnay from 19
different crus, La Grande Année captures
a saline essence before evolving into lemon
balm, quince and bergamot notes.
champagne-bollinger.com
2021 Voyager Estate Sparkling Chenin
Blanc, Margaret River, WA, $32
Fermented using organically farmed chenin
blanc grapes from the original 1978 plantings
and made using méthode traditionnelle (like
Champagne). The sparkling exhibits power
and presence with green apple and pink
grapefruit notes before softening out with
lemon myrtle and meringue flavours that
would make an excellent addition to a table
filled with crustaceans. voyagerestate.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHYALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

2018 Dal Zotto Tabelo Col Fondo Prosecco,
King Valley, Vic, $49
From the family that planted the first
prosecco grapes in Australia comes their
most expressive sparkling to date. Made in
a traditional Col Fondo style the Tabelo
includes concentrated juice from dried and
pressed prosecco grapes, adding a layer of
complexity to the sparkling. Cloudy in the
bottle with a heady pear blossom perfume and
a lemon pith character that would be excellent
with a grazing board. dalzotto.com.au

Morris Australian Single Malt Whisky
Smoked Muscat Barrel, $189
When a fifth-generation winemaking family with more
than 160 years of fortified experience releases a whisky
using smoked muscat barrels, you know it will be good.
Baked biscuit maltiness meets rich raisin and date notes,
and a lingering smokiness not often seen outside of
peated Scottish whiskies. morriswhisky.com
The Lost Explorer Tobalá Mezcal, $250 for 700ml
This extremely floral and herbaceous mezcal is
a sustainable labour of love from award-winning maestro
Mezcalero Don Fortino Ramos and his daughter Xitlali.
One of three unique cuvees from this newcomer to the
agave-based spirits scene. thelostexplorermezcal.com

TH E FU N STU FF

Heaps Normal Another Lager Non-Alcoholic Beer,
$15 for 4 x 375ml
After its XPA set the benchmark for sans-alcohol beers,
it’s no surprise that its lager is gaining the same traction.
Bright, citrus notes you’d expect from the hops, as well
as that clean, refreshing taste you want from a lager
– perfect with fish and chips. heapsnormal.com

Curatif x Bar Bambi Amaretto Sour,
$45 for 4 x 130ml
From the brand that brought us Tequila Tromba Tommy’s
Margaritas and the Archie Rose Espresso Martini comes
its most recent collab with Melbourne’s Bar Bambi, an
Amaretto Sour in a can (of course). Curatif has perfected
the art of crafting incredibly high-quality cocktails in its
patented special-lined cans so you can savour every sip.
The Amaretto Sour is no exception, with its almond
flavours chased by zesty lemon freshness, it’s ideal
for the Boxing Day wind down. curatif.com
Heiwa Shuzo Yuzushu, $67 for 720ml
Level up any summer spritz with this vibrant yuzushu,
made with a one-year-old Junmai sake and juice from
the whole citrus fruit (peel and all) at an exceptionally
high one to one ratio. The result is concentrated floral
citrus notes perfect for summer. blackmarketsake.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

79

YEAR

REVIEW

IN

M O ST-LI

D P O ST
E
K

S
Nik Hill’s
cauliflower
cheese tart
Curtis Stone’s
Dutch baby with
lemon butter
Fig, pomegranate
and burrata
Christmas salad
Roasted
cauliflower,
Brussels sprout
and chickpea
salad

815,512

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1. APRIL
THE ITALIAN ISSUE
2. JUNE
THE BISTRO ISSUE
3. JANUARY
MEDITERRANEAN SUMMER

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OTO S H O OTS

THANK YOU TO OUR

H

T

PHOTOGRAPHY JASON LOUCAS (EGGPLANT), CHRIS COURT (OCTOPUS), WILLIAM MEPPEM (SOUP).

Dan Hong’s crispy eggplant
with fish-fragrant sauce

PH

THE 2022 ROUNDUP

Ye a r i n r e v i e w

E

YE

AR

60

TOP RECIPES
1. Pea and ham soup
2. Eggplant parmigiana
3. Eton Mess
4. Curtis Stone’s Dutch baby

1

with lemon butter
5. Bethany Finn’s lemon
delicious pudding

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

81

ONE-STOP SHOP

THE NEW MENU PAIRING
Forget steak and Shiraz, this year’s hottest trend has
been pairing music with your menu. Japan’s famed
listening bars inspired a raft of new openings – from
Ante and Rekodo in Sydney, to Melbourne’s Waxflower,
and Astral Weeks in Perth. But Krug Champagne took
the movement to another stratosphere when it
partnered with acclaimed Japanese composer Ryuichi
Sakamoto to create an unprecedented music pairing
experience, titled Seeing Sound, Hearing Krug. Inspired
by three Champagne creations from the year 2008,
Sakamoto composed a three-movement symphony
called Suite for Krug in 2008.

Consider it the hospitality equivalent of
Choose Your Own Adventure; one venue
offering myriad experiences. In Sydney,
Hinchcliff House kick-started the trend,
quickly followed by Shell House, and
most recently The Charles. While in
Melbourne, Her offers everything from
a Tokyo-inspired listening room to
a rooftop bar and Thai eatery.

CAVIAR STARS
Move over caviar bumps, this year saw decadent
dots of sturgeon roe make their way into drinks,
desserts and everything in between. From Society’s
signature Caviar Martini in Melbourne, to ice-cream
at SK Steak & Oyster in Brisbane. In Adelaide, Arkhé
served it atop hash browns, while Good Gilbert
paired it with French fries.

SISTER ACT
This year marked a baby boom for hospitality, as
restaurants across the country welcomed little
sister venues. Whether it was a complementary
wine bar for established eateries (Amaru and
Auterra); a testing ground for formal venues (Peter
Gunn’s March); or simply a creative outlet to do
something different (like Lune team opening Butler
Wine Bar in Brisbane), many much-loved venues
expanded their families with fun new additions.
Want more? Nomad and Beau (Sydney), Margaret
and Next Door (Sydney), Maha and Jayda
(Melbourne), Labart and Paloma (Gold Coast), Bar
Lune and Dolly (Adelaide).

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY HART (SISTER ACT), PARKER BLAIN (HER).

TA S T Y T R E N D S & H I G H L I G H T S

A smorgasbord of things
we loved from 2022

Ye a r i n r e v i e w
PIPING HOT
Traditionally the preserve of pastry
chefs, piping bags became the new
must-have accessory this year, as chefs
finessed all manner of butters, creams
and pastes to add a decadent flourish
to savoury snacks. Sweet treats also
enjoyed the squiggle treatment, as
a retro revival swept Australian kitchens.

SIGNATURE DRINK
When it comes to drinks, less was
more this year as a raft of new
openings decided to ditch the
standard drinks list and focus on
a single signature. At Bar Planet in
Sydney, Martinis are both the star
and support acts; while Bar Conte
made Negronis its hero. In
Brisbane, Before + After celebrates
amaro, while Pearl Chablis and
Oyster Bar in Melbourne devotes
more than half its wine list to the
white Burgundy.

PHOTOGRAPHY GARETH SOBEY (OMAKASE), NIKKI TO (BAR PLANET) & TRENT VAN DER JAGT (PIPING HOT).

SPANISH FIESTA
Vermouth, pinxtos, pimiento, and
wines from the Iberian Peninsula
have ruled this year, with more
Spanish-inspired openings slated
for 2023.
Want more? Cantina (Gold Coast),
Una Mes (Perth), Gildas (Sydney),
Bar Louise (Sydney), Parlar (Sydney),
La Salut (Sydney) and La Pinta
(Melbourne).

POWER PRECINCTS
OMAKASE GOES NATIONAL
Once an underground trend among
Japanophiles and big spending food
lovers, omakase has now firmly entered
Australia’s wider dining lexicon, with
intricate multi-course chef’s table
experiences opening across the country.
Yūgen lured original omakase master
Alex Yu (ex-Sokyo) to Melbourne, while
Sokyo’s Chase Kojima has opened his
own ramen-devoted omakase, Senpai
Ramen in Chatswood. Brisbane also
entered the flashy omakase fold with
the arrival of Sushi Room at The Calile.

Once a by-word for drab industrial
estates, precincts have become the
new must-visit dining destinations
thanks to carefully curated line-ups
of leading restaurateurs. In
Brisbane, Fish Lane is home to
Southside, Maeve Wine Bar and
Julius; while at Sydney’s Hollywood
Quarter you’ll find Kiln, Pellegrino
2000 and The Rover, among others.
Want more? 25 Martin Place
(Sydney), the Leederville Precinct
(Perth), Capitol Grand (Melbourne),
James Street (Brisbane) and South
City Square (Brisbane).

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

83

MABU MABU, NORNIE BERO

THE NUTMEG TRAIL, ELEANOR FORD

Consider this your Indigenous flavour playbook. For the
uninitiated, Bero is a First Nations chef and owner of
two Melbourne venues under the Mabu Mabu umbrella.
In these bold and beautiful pages, she takes the
hallowed local ingredients gracing the dégustation
menus of Australia’s top fine-diners and introduces
them into everyday cooking. (Hardie Grant, $45)

In this encyclopaedic exploration of the world of
spice, Ford demystifies spices and the art of balancing
flavour. There are more than 80 recipes as guidance
but by the time you have consumed the detailed
back stories on each aromatic ingredient, you feel
empowered to go rogue. (Murdoch Books, $49.99)

LANKA FOOD, O TAMA CAREY
A HOUSE PARTY IN TUSCANY, AMBER GUINNESS
Not to be read in moments of weakness, this fever
dream of a book is a direct line to Tuscany’s bucolic
Arniano Painting School. Here Guinness, the ultimate
hostess, plucks produce straight from the garden to
create satisfying feasts. Sigh. (Thames & Hudson, $65)

It’s the book Lankan Filling Station fans had been
longing for, and Carey’s Sri Lankan love letter
delivers generously. Keep on standby for hoppers,
sambal, curries and to turn your next dinner party
into a spice-fuelled Sri Lankan banquet.
(Hardie Grant, $55)

WORDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR

We round up our favourite cookbooks of 2022.

Ye a r i n r e v i e w

FIRST, CREAM THE BUTTER AND
SUGAR, EMELIA JACKSON
“Perforated tins stop pastry shrinkage”:
this is the baking bible according to
Jackson. In these pages the MasterChef
winner and cake designer serves up
fail-safe cookies, cakes, choux pastry
and tarts. (Murdoch Books, $59.99)

AROUND THE TABLE, JULIA
BUSUTTIL NISHIMURA
Her elevated home cookery has
inspired legions and with Busuttil
Nishimura’s third book her cult
following continues to grow. Recipes
are organised into spontaneous
occasions from slow Sundays to
summer feasts. Keep handy for when
the moment strikes. (Plum, $44.99)

CHINESE-ISH, ROSHEEN KAUL
AND JOANNA HU
The tag line “Not quite authentic, 100
per cent delicious,” rings true in this
autobiographical Chinese/Australian
mash up. Kaul, head chef at Etta, and
Hu, an illustrator and ex front-of-house,
both grew up in Australia as immigrants
with Chinese heritage. Chinese-Ish
consolidates their lives on a plate (or
slice of white bread in the case of the
Sichuan sausage sanga) to delicious
effect. (Murdoch Books, $39.99)

COOK, KAREN MARTINI
This comprehensive collection of more
than 1000 recipes should be bought
with a stockpile of post-it notes. You’re
going to want to mark every page. Buy
it for an emerging cook when they
leave home for the first time or for
experienced home cooks who will
devour the lot. (Hardie Grant, $100)

SALAMATI, HAMED ALLAHYARI WITH
DANI VALENT
Allahyari’s food is an express route to
Persia as the refugee chef adapts his
family’s vibrant recipes to Australian
ingredients. (Murdoch Books, $45) 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

85

EAT, DRINK, BE MERRY

with a Gourmet Traveller Gift Card
Buy online at
gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au
and at leading retailers

G

E

G
U
I
T
D
F
I

Naughty or nice? Our GT-curated wish list has just the thing
for the discerning cook, entertainer and adventurer.
Styling LAUREN DE SOUSA & HANNAH BLACKMORE
Photography ALICIA TAYLOR

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

87

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Splash ceramic oval platter, $280, Alex and Trahanas. Bamboo salad servers, $70, Bonnie and Neil. Compagnie de Provence
white tea liquid soap, $43, Libertine Parfumerie. Signature dry gin, $79, Archie Rose. Nespresso Vertuo Next Capsule coffee machine with Milk Frother
by Breville in Cherry Red, $299, Harvey Norman. Stoneware mug, $30, Le Creuset. Lulu’s Remedy chilli oil, $15, Lulu’s Sydney. Three orange marmalade,
$13.95, The Essential Ingredient. Flow resin fruit bowl in Earth, $189, Saardé. Restore Hand and Body Ritual gift set, $120, Jurlique. Pistachio cantucci,
$9.96, Simon Johnson. Chocolate orange dotties, $8, and a bon bon of stars, $24.90, Koko Black. Pearl platter, in Amber and Lilac $159, Fazeek. Falling
star pop in dark chocolate, $3.90, Koko Black.

THE COOK
Cult accoutrements for the kitchen and
table to make gourmands feel seen.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Gingham napkins in Nutmeg, $125 for six, Bonnie and Neil. Olsson’s red gum smoked salt, $18.95, The Essential Ingredient.
Dillan dill pickle hot sauce, $15, Mat’s Hot Shop. Medium resin moon cheese platters in Flamingo, Leaf and Sky, $180 each, Dinosaur Designs.
Panettone, $55, Simon Johnson. Chocolate buttery salted caramels, $24.95, Pepe Saya. Stoneware Elements petite casseroles, $160 for four,
Le Creuset. Stone knife block 6 piece set in Snow Terrazzo, $549, Füri. Kugelhopf, $12, Sonoma. Small resin moon cheese platter in Raspberry, $95,
Dinosaur Designs. Lune cookbook by Kate Reid, $55, Hardie Grant. Gourmet Traveller Everyday cookbook, $49.99, Hard to Find. Wave plate in Pink, $79,
Fazeek. Kit Body Nutrition lotion, $36, Mecca. Tumami everything spread, $15, St. Ali. Gingerbread cookie butter, $17, Sonoma. PREVIOUS PAGE Geo
bowl in Teal, $199, Fazeek.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

89

THE ENTERTAINER
Luxe finds for the gracious host so you
don’t show up empty handed.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Black and White Plexiglass bag, $24,140, Chanel. Fiore Champagne cooler, $795, Corey Ashford. Bollinger Rosé NV, $155,
David Jones. Large resin rock bangle in Sky, $105, Dinosaur Designs. Diane Jurassic large tray, $2250, Greg Natale. Face Hero Extra, $75, Go-to Skincare.
Medium Voyage bangle in brass, $420, and Narrow Voyage bangle in brass, $300, Louise Olsen x Alex and Trahanas. Paola C Parure II in Light Blue,
$720, Space Furniture. Baci x Dolce & Gabbana classic box, $20, select independent grocers. Beosound Emerge Compact WiFi home speaker, $1450,
Bang & Olufsen. Fenty Beauty Double Cheek’d Up Freestyle Cream Blush Duo, $52, Sephora. Rouge Dior Couture Colour lipstick in Rouge Fortune
$67, Dior. Eau Rose Eau de Parfum, $319, Diptyque. Hydroconquest watch, $2575, Longines. Lune coaster set, $165 for four, Greg Natale. Maison
Francis Kurkdjian 724 Eau de Parfum, $298, Mecca. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Wild Child bar cart, $890, Fenton & Fenton. Mixology Elixir
decanter and four glasses set, $119, Luigi Bormioli. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV, $179, Kent Street Cellars. Optica Champagne flutes, $89.95 for six, Luigi
Bormioli. The Ultimate Book of Cocktails book by Dan Jones, $34.99, Hardie Grant, Ariel Booksellers. 100% Beeswax taper candles from Kalamata,
Greece, $29 for two, Alex and Trahanas. Corda candle holder, $195, Alex and Trahanas. L’Objet black crocodile 24 carat plated porcelain box with two
decks playing cards, $410, Becker Minty. Copper two piece shaker, $39, Archie Rose. Manhattan glass in Smoke and Red, $69, Maison Balzac. The
Glenlivet Caribbean Reserve Scotch Whisky, $74, Liquorland. Mayfair DOF tumblers, $150 for two, Mon Verre.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

91

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Bose SoundLink Revolve+ II Bluetooth speaker in Luxe Silver, $495, Harvey Norman. Terry Travel lounger chair in Skinny
Dipper, $140, Sunnylife. Artichoke velvet toiletry bag, $49, Kip & Co. SPF 50+ sunscreen, $28, Standard Procedure. Seabay beach towel, $75,
Sheridan. Santa Maria Novella men’s travel kit, $116, Libertine Parfumerie. Candy cane hot cocoa, $19.90, Koko Black. Metal and resin visor in Black
and White, $5330, Chanel. Veuve Clicquot NV Magnum, $230, Vintage Cellars. Creed Aventus Eau de Parfum, $499. Burberry Hero Eau de Parfum,
$184, Sephora.

THE ADVENTURER
Treat the explorer or picnicker to a little
luxury with these portable outdoor picks.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Cucumber Gimlet, $20, Twisted Shaker. Beach cooler box sounds in Mint, $200, Sunnylife. Cantara sardines in olive oil,
$9.75, Cantara mussels in pickled sauce, $11.50, and Small sardines in olive oil, $11.50, The Essential Ingredient. Finish That Song trivia box, $29.95, Hard
to Find. Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine Eau de Parfum, $169, Gucci. Luxe picnic backpack in Terracotta, $200, Sunnylife. The Christmas Cask Whisky,
$250, Lark Distillery. Cast iron round skillet in Cayenne, $260, Le Creuset. Printworks Classic Games four in a row, $69, Becker Minty. Gourmet Traveller
New Zealand cookbook, $59.99, Magshop. Paris Chic book by Alexandra Senes and Oliver Pilcher, $195, Assouline, Ariel Booksellers.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

93

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR.

Seasons
greetings
Barbecued prawns
with aji verde

p

Make seafood the star of the relaxed holiday table with
centrepiece-worthy dishes to gather around and share.

101

Ocean trout
pastrami, pickled
apple and beetroot

p

105
Photography BEN DEARNLEY

Styling VIVIEN WALSH

Ocean trout Idra Murano
water glass from Fairfax &
Roberts. Prawns Murano
Champagne coupes from
Fairfax & Roberts. All other
props stylist’s own.

Recipes and food preparation
TAMIKA O’NEILL

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

99

Spanner crab
Abracadabra plates in
Green from House of
Nunu. Gin & Tonic glass
from Maison Balzac. All
other props stylist’s own.

100

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Barbecued prawns with aji verde
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

For these spiced-fuelled barbecued prawns we’ve paired extra-large, sustainably
wild-caught prawns with aji verde, a spicy Peruvian green sauce. Pictured p98

2
½
1
12

tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
tsp sweet paprika
tbsp lemon juice
extra-large green prawns (110gm
each; we use U6), heads removed,
halved lengthways, cleaned
Micro coriander and finger lime
pearls, to serve
AJI VERDE

1 cup each (firmly packed) coriander
and flat-leaf parsley leaves,
coarsely chopped
1 jalapeño chilli, finely chopped
3 spring onions, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp lime juice
1 tsp finely grated lime zest
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil

1 Place oil, paprika and lemon juice in
a large bowl, add prawns, season to
taste and toss to coat.
2 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or
char-grill pan to high heat. Barbecue
prawns, cut-side down, until charred
(2 minutes), turn and cook until shells
are charred and crisp (2-3 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, for aji verde, place
ingredients in a large bowl, season
to taste and stir to combine.
4 To serve, place prawns on a large
platter and spoon over aji verde. Serve
scattered with micro coriander and finger
lime pearls.

Spanner crab, pink grapefruit and coconut salad
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

This simple crab salad is sure to impress with its fragrant Thai dressing and herbs.

2
2
300
1
20
20
1
1

pink grapefruits, peeled, segmented
red shallots, thinly sliced
gm cooked spanner crab meat
cup each (loosely packed) mint,
coriander and Thai basil leaves, torn
gm mixed baby herbs (optional;
see note)
gm (½ cup) flaked coconut, toasted
lemongrass stalk, white part only,
thinly sliced
tbsp roasted peanuts, coarsely
chopped
Spanner crab shells (optional),
cleaned, dried, to serve
NAM PLA PRIK DRESSING

2 tbsp each rice wine vinegar and
fish sauce
2 tbsp brown sugar
60 ml (¼ cup) lime juice
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 long red chilli, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander

1 For dressing, place vinegar, fish sauce,
brown sugar and 2 tbsp of water in
a small saucepan over low heat, stirring
occasionally, until sugar dissolves
(5 minutes). Turn off heat and add juice,
garlic, chilli, and coriander. Transfer to
a large bowl and cool for 10 minutes.
2 Add grapefruit to dressing with
shallots, half of the crab, herbs, coconut,
lemongrass and peanuts. Season to
taste and toss to combine; marinate for
10 minutes before serving.
3 To serve, divide salad among crab
shells (if using), scatter with remaining
crab and serve on ice immediately.
Note Mixed baby herbs are available
from select greengrocers. If unavailable,
substitute extra soft herbs. ➤

Grilled lobster with beurre blanc and chives
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

Lobster is the ultimate show-stopping centrepiece for the holidays. Served with a classic beurre blanc, the key lies in its simplicity.

2 southern rock lobsters, dispatched
humanely (see note)
Melted butter, for brushing
Micro chives, mixed baby herbs and
charred lime halves, to serve
BEURRE BLANC
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
60 ml (¼ cup) freshly squeezed orange
juice, strained
1 tbsp lemon juice
60 ml (¼ cup) sauvignon blanc (we use
Marlborough)
125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream
80 gm unsalted cold butter, chopped
Pinch of cayenne pepper

Lobster Murano
Champagne coupes
from Fairfax & Roberts.
All other props
stylist’s own.

1 Place lobster on its back, belly-side
up, on a flat, non-slip surface. Using
a sharp knife, halve lobster lengthways,
remove coral from head; refrigerate
until ready to use.
2 For beurre blanc, place peppercorns,
shallot, orange and lemon juice with
wine in a saucepan over medium heat
and bring to a simmer; reduce by half
(4 minutes). Stir in cream and reduce by
half (3 minutes). Reduce heat to low and
gradually whisk in cold butter, 2 cubes
at a time until all combined. Add 1-2 tbsp
hot water if necessary, until desired
consistency. Add cayenne pepper,
season to taste and stir to combine.
Keep warm until ready to use.
3 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
or char-grill pan to high heat. Brush
cut sides of lobster with melted butter
and season to taste. Barbecue lobster,

cut-side down, until lightly charred
(6 minutes). Turn lobsters over and
cook, basting occasionally with melted
butter, until meat is just cooked through
(6-8 minutes).
4 To serve, place lobsters on serving
plates and spoon over beurre blanc.
Scatter with chives, mixed baby herbs
and extra cayenne pepper and serve
with charred lime halves on the side.
Note RSPCA Australia’s advice for
killing lobsters humanely is to render
them insensible by chilling them in the
freezer (under 4°C) for half an hour.
Then the lobster must be killed quickly
by cutting through the centreline of the
head, thorax and abdomen with a large,
sharp knife. Cutting must occur along
the longitudinal midline to destroy
the nerve centres. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

103

Ocean trout pastrami, pickled apple and beetroot
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS CURING, COOLING)

This peppery cured trout takes a little time to cure but is well worth the effort. Begin
this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p99

1 side ocean trout (about 800gm),
skin off, pin-boned
Mixed micro herbs and lavosh,
to serve
CURING SALT

15 gm coriander seeds
1 tbsp each caraway seeds and mixed
peppercorns
500 gm rock salt
200 gm brown sugar
PASTRAMI SEASONING

25 gm each coriander and fennel seeds,
lightly toasted
¼ cup juniper berries
2 tbsp each mixed peppercorns and
yellow mustard seeds
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) molasses
PICKLED APPLE AND BEETROOT
165 gm (¾ cup) caster sugar
180 ml (¾ cup) apple cider vinegar
½ tsp yellow mustard seeds
1 cinnamon quill
3 each small red and golden beetroot,
thinly sliced
1 Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced

1 For curing salt, coarsely crush seeds
and peppercorns in a mortar and pestle.
Place in a bowl with the salt and sugar
and stir to combine.
2 Spread one-third of curing mixture on
a large non-reactive tray. Top with ocean
trout and scatter with remaining cure
mixture until completely covered. Cover
with plastic wrap and refrigerate for
24 hours. Wipe off curing mixture and
gently rinse under cold running water.
Pat dry with a clean cloth and set aside.
3 Meanwhile, to make pastrami
seasoning, coarsely crush ingredients,
except molasses in a mortar and pestle.
Heat molasses in a microwave for 15
seconds or until warm and a spreadable
consistency. Brush molasses over one
side of the fish; scatter with seasoning
to coat. Turn over and repeat with
remaining side, making sure both sides
are coated well. Transfer to a board and
refrigerate until ready to serve.
4 For pickle, combine sugar, vinegar,
spices and 180ml water in a small
saucepan over medium heat and bring to
a simmer, stirring occasionally, until sugar
dissolves (5 minutes); cool slightly. Place
beetroot and apple in a large bowl and
pour over pickling liquid. Set aside for 1
hour or until cooled.
5 To serve, thinly slice ocean trout
pastrami as desired and scatter with
mixed micro herbs. Serve with pickles
and lavosh on the side.

Seared scallops
with whipped green
goddess butter
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

Scallops paired with a zesty herb
butter make for a crowd-pleasing
Christmas starter.

18
250
21⁄2
1
1½
2

scallops in the half shell
gm unsalted butter, softened
tbsp lemon juice
tbsp finely grated lemon zest
tbsp baby capers, finely chopped
garlic cloves, finely grated on
a Microplane
2½ tbsp each finely chopped flat-leaf
parsley and chives
Rock salt and chervil, to serve

1 Remove scallops from shells, then
wash and dry shells and set aside for
serving. Pat scallops dry on both sides
with paper towels.
2 For whipped butter, place butter in
a bowl with high sides. Using a handheld
electric whisk, whisk until pale and
doubled in size. Add remaining
ingredients, season to taste and stir to
combine. Melt half of the butter in a small
saucepan over medium heat and stand
remaining butter at room temperature
until ready to use.
3 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
flat plate or frying pan to high heat.
Brush each side of scallops with melted
butter and season to taste. Sear scallops,
in batches, if necessary, for 30 seconds
to 1 minute on one side or until golden,
turn and cook for a further 20-30
seconds or until scallops are just
cooked through.
4 To serve, place scallop shells on
a platter covered in rock salt and return
scallops to shells. Spoon over remaining
melted butter and scatter with chervil.
Serve immediately.
Note Roll leftover butter in baking paper
and enclose in plastic wrap. Freeze for
up to 3 months and use as desired. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

105

Prawn and scampi Gobelet
in Mint from Maison Balzac.
Green Carafe from House
of Nunu. Murano
Champagne coupes from
Fairfax & Roberts. All other
props stylist’s own.

Prawn and scampi cocktail platter with avocado granita
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS FREEZING)

This modern take on the classic ’70s prawn cocktail will dazzle friends and family, served either as an individual entrée
or on a large serving platter to share. We’ve added Espelette pepper mayonnaise for an added kick.

½ tsp finely grated lime zest
6 scampi, halved lengthways
6 extra-large green prawns (U6,
110gm each), halved lengthways
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1 witlof, trimmed, leaves separated
1 treviso radicchio, trimmed,
leaves separated
Micro green shiso and mixed sea
succulents, to serve
AVOCADO GRANITA

150
80
1
¼

ml lime juice
gm caster sugar
small avocado (200gm)
cup (loosely packed) mint leaves
ESPELETTE MAYONNAISE

250
1
1
½
¼

ml (1 cup) grapeseed oil
egg
tbsp lime juice
tsp lime rind, finely grated
tsp Espelette pepper, plus extra
to serve (see note)

1 For avocado granita, combine
juice, 250ml water and sugar over
high heat and bring to the boil, stirring
occasionally, until sugar dissolves
(3 minutes); cool for 5 minutes. Transfer
to a blender with avocado and mint and
blend until smooth. Transfer to a large
shallow metal tray and freeze until
beginning to firm (3-4 hours). Scrape
into ice crystals with a fork and freeze,
scraping occasionally, until frozen.
2 Meanwhile, place zest and 1 tsp sea
salt flakes in a bowl. Place scampi and
prawns cut-side up on a large tray and
scatter with lime salt and drizzle with oil.
3 For Espelette mayonnaise, place
ingredients in a tall jug. Using a stick
blender, blend until emulsified; season
to taste.

4 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
or char-grill pan to high heat. Cook
scampi and prawns, shell-side down,
until charred and crisp (2-3 minutes).
Turn and continue to cook until both
scampi and prawns are lightly charred
and just cooked through (1-2 minutes).
5 Arrange witlof and radicchio on
a platter. Top with prawns and scampi,
mayonnaise, avocado granita, micro
shiso, sea succulents and Espelette
pepper.
Note Espelette pepper, a French dried
flaked chilli, is available from select
delicatessens and Herbie’s Spices at
herbies.com.au. Granita will keep frozen
in an airtight container for 3 months. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

107

A TA B L E
TO SHARE
Recipes and food preparation DOMINIC SMITH

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR

Styling AMBER DE FLORIO

ADDITIONAL FOOD PREPARATION ISMAT AWAN.

Impress without the stress this Christmas, with a colourful
menu of updated classics, barbecued meats and fresh salads.

Sumac onions,
green tomatoes,
and cucumber

p

110

Sumac onions Artistica round plate
in Midnight Blue from Tomkin. Canelé
brass candle holders from Corey Ashford.
Murano Champagne flute and Nagaa
tealight from Fairfax & Roberts. Flowers
from Lime Tree Bower used throughout.
All other props stylist’s own.

Barbecued lamb
in baharat
and yoghurt

p

110

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

109

Barbecued lamb in baharat and yoghurt
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 3 HRS 30 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING)

Barbecued lamb leftovers are perfect for wraps and salads to serve on Boxing Day.
Begin this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p109

500 gm Greek-style yoghurt
15 gm ground baharat (see note)
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
1 cup (loosely packed) coriander
leaves, finely chopped
3 kg easy-carve leg of lamb, Frenchtrimmed (see note)
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses, plus
extra for drizzling
Pomegranate arils and chopped
flat-leaf parsley, to serve
1 To marinate lamb, place yoghurt,
baharat, garlic, zest and coriander in
a food processor; season to taste and
process until combined. Place lamb in
a large non-reactive bowl and coat
with half of the marinade; cover and
refrigerate overnight. Stir molasses
through remaining marinade, cover
and refrigerate. Bring lamb to room
temperature when ready to cook.

2 Preheat a barbecue with a hood to
160˚C. Place a wire rack in a large
deep-sided roasting pan. Pour in enough
water to just touch the underside of rack.
Place lamb on rack, cover with a layer of
baking paper, seal tightly with foil, then
roast with barbecue hood closed until
lamb is cooked (3 hours). Remove
covering, increase heat to 200°C. roast
until lamb has browned (25-30 minutes).
Remove from barbecue. Loosely cover
with foil to rest (20-30 minutes).
3 To serve, place lamb on a large
serving platter, spoon over 2 tbsp
remaining marinade, drizzle with extra
molasses and scatter with pomegranate
arils and parsley. Serve with remaining
marinade on the side.
Note Baharat, an exotic Middle Eastern
spice blend, is available from Herbie’s
Spices. Ask your butcher to prepare an
easy-carve leg of lamb. If unavailable,
substitute 3kg boneless lamb leg.

Citrus-cured poussin, pickled plum and
yuzu kosho aïoli
SERVES 4-8 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 45 MINS (PLUS CURING, DRYING, RESTING)

This rustic dish will add a Japanese touch to Christmas. Begin this recipe a day ahead.

1 kg rock salt
500 gm raw caster sugar
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
and 2 limes
4 garlic cloves, sliced
6 poussin (500gm each; see note),
butterflied, patted dry
Vegetable oil, for drizzling
Micro purple shiso leaves, to serve
PICKLED PLUM AND YUZU KOSHO AÏOLI

300 gm Kewpie mayonnaise
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
4 pickled plums, seeds removed, finely
chopped (see note)
1 long red chilli, finely chopped, plus
extra to serve
1 tbsp yuzu kosho (see note)
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

110

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 To cure poussin, place salt, sugar,
zest and garlic in a food processor and
process until just combined. Spread
one-third of cure over base of a
non-reactive deep container large
enough to fit poussin. Top with poussin
and scatter over remaining cure. Cover
and refrigerate (6-8 hours). Remove from
cure and rinse off salt. Pat dry well with
paper towel; stand on a wire rack over
a tray in fridge uncovered for 2 hours
for skin to dry out.
2 Meanwhile, for aïoli, place all
ingredients in a bowl, and mix to
combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
3 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
with a hood to medium-high. Drizzle
poussin with oil and place skin-side

Sumac onions,
green tomatoes,
and cucumber
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 5 MINS (PLUS STANDING)

Pictured p109

2 small red onions, shaved on
a mandolin
2 tsp sumac
125 ml (½ cup) white wine vinegar
30 gm caster sugar
125 ml (½ cup) lemon-infused extra-virgin
olive oil
5 green tomatoes (about 500gm),
thickly sliced
2 telegraph cucumbers (300gm each),
cut into rough chunks
1 Place onion in a bowl with 20gm sea
salt flakes; stand for 30 minutes. Place
sumac, vinegar, sugar, and oil in a large
bowl and whisk to combine.
2 Add onions, tomatoes and cucumbers,
season with pepper and toss to combine.
Stand at room temperature until ready
to serve.
3 Transfer to a serving bowl and serve.

down. Barbecue over indirect heat, in
batches if necessary, turning frequently,
for 40-45 minutes or until poussin are
charred and cooked through. Rest,
loosely covered with foil, in a warm
place for 10 minutes before serving.
4 To serve, cut poussin in half and
place on a large platter, drizzle with oil
and scatter with/micro purple shiso
leaves. Serve with aïoli, scattered with
extra chopped chilli, on the side.
Note To barbecue poussin, make sure
to cook over indirect heat in a preheated
gas, charcoal or heatbead barbecue or
it will burn before it cooks. Use a digital
meat thermometer to check internal
temperature of the chicken is 75°C.
Alternatively, char poussin on barbecue
then place on an oven tray and roast in
a 180˚C oven for 40-45 minutes until
cooked. If poussin isn’t available,
substitute spatchcock. Pickled plums and
yuzu kosho are available from Japanese
or Asian grocers and select delicatessens.

Silverbeet Artistica
rectangular plate in Midnight
Blue from Tomkin. Murano
Champagne flute from
Fairfax & Roberts. All other
props stylist’s own.

Silverbeet ohitashi
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS
(PLUS CHILLING)

1 large bunch silverbeet, leaves and
stalks separated, stalks cut into
10cm lengths
250 ml (1 cup) dashi stock concentrate
60 ml (¼ cup) each light soy sauce
and mirin
Toasted sesame seeds, to serve
1 Blanch silverbeet stems and leaves for
1-2 minutes in boiling water then refresh
immediately in iced water; drain well.
2 Place dashi stock in a large saucepan
with 1 litre water and bring to the boil. Stir
in soy and mirin, then cool to room
temperature. Place silverbeet in a
container with a lid and pour over dashi
mixture. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes
or up to 8 hours to chill before serving.
3. To serve, transfer to a serving bowl
and spoon over dashi broth; scatter with
sesame seeds. ➤

Turkey Artistica round
plate in Midnight Blue
from Tomkin. Murano
Champagne flute from
Fairfax & Roberts. All
other props stylist’s own.

Bay leaf and lemon myrtle roast turkey
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2 HRS (PLUS BRINING, COOLING, RESTING)

For Christmas with a distinctly Australian feel, try this lemon myrtle and bay leaf
brine, which infuses the bird with flavour and ensures it stays tender and juicy.
Begin this recipe 1-2 days ahead.

500 gm raw caster sugar
400 gm fine salt
24 each fresh bay leaves and dried
lemon myrtle leaves, plus extra
leaves, to serve
2 lemons, peeled into strips
2 tbsp black peppercorns
5 kg turkey
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
Beef jus, to serve (see note)
STUFFING

300 gm coarse stale sourdough
breadcrumbs (we use Sonoma miche)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2½ tbsp each finely chopped sage
and flat-leaf parsley
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
150 gm dried cranberries
3 golden shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 For brine, combine sugar, salt, bay,
lemon myrtle, lemon peel and pepper
with 8 litres of water in a large stockpot,
bring to the boil and simmer for 10
minutes over medium heat; then cool.
Submerge turkey in brine, use a large
heavy plate to weight down and
refrigerate for at least 24 hours (see
note). Five hours before cooking, remove
turkey from brine, drain and pat dry with
paper towel.
2 Meanwhile, for stuffing, place
ingredients in a large bowl, season
to taste and using your hands, mix to
combine. Spoon stuffing into turkey
cavity, truss legs with kitchen twine

and tuck wing tips under backbone.
3 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Place a wire
rack in a large deep roasting pan. Place
turkey on top, brush with oil and season
to taste. Add 500ml water to pan and
roast, rotating pan occasionally until
golden brown and just cooked through
(13⁄4 hours –2 hours); cover loosely with
foil to keep warm and rest for 20 minutes
before serving.
4 To serve, scatter a large platter
with extra sprigs of bay leaves and
top with turkey. Serve with hot beef
jus on the side.
Note The brine maintains moisture during
cooking. The resting period allows juices
to reabsorb and should never be skipped.
Beef jus is available from select
supermarkets and specialty food shops.

Green wedge salad
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 5 MINS

125 ml (½ cup) buttermilk
60 gm each Kewpie mayonnaise
and sour cream
½ cup (loosely packed) basil leaves
1 tbsp lemon juice
3 baby gem lettuces, trimmed,
halved lengthways
3 golden shallots, shaved on
a mandolin
Finely grated parmesan, to serve
1 Place buttermilk, mayonnaise, sour
cream, basil and lemon juice in a
blender and blend until combined;
season to taste.
2 Place lettuce halves on a platter and
drizzle with dressing. To serve, scatter
with shallots and grated parmesan.

Pea, asparagus and
charred potato salad
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 40 MINS

A tomato and ’nduja dressing delivers
a flavour bomb to this roast vegetable
salad. Served hot or cold, this recipe is
alfresco entertaining at its best.

1 kg kipfler potatoes
1 bunch each green, purple and white
asparagus, trimmed
100 gm fresh podded peas
20 gm each picked watercress and baby
pea tendrils
TOMATO AND ’NDJUA DRESSING

80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
3 golden shallots, finely chopped
80 gm ’ndjua (see note)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 large vine-ripened tomatoes, seeds
removed, finely chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped basil
and oregano
80 ml (⅓ cup) Sherry vinegar
3 tsp caster sugar
1 For dressing, heat oil in a pan over
medium heat. Add shallots, ’ndjua and
garlic and cook, stirring frequently until
’ndjua is fragrant (2-3 minutes); stir in
tomatoes, herbs, vinegar, and sugar.
Season to taste and stand at room
temperature until ready to use.
2 Cook potatoes in a large saucepan of
boiling salted water until cooked (25-30
minutes). Drain and cool slightly. Partially
flatten each potato with the heel of your
hand and place on a tray with asparagus;
drizzle both with oil.
3 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or
char-grill pan to high. Cook potatoes,
turning frequently, until charred (3-4
minutes). Then cook asparagus, turning
frequently, until charred (1-2 minutes).
4 When ready to serve, transfer
potatoes and asparagus to
a large serving platter and scatter with
peas, watercress and pea tendrils.
Spoon over dressing.Serve immediately.
Note ’Nduja, a spreadable salami, is
available from select butchers and
delicatessens. If unavailable, substitute
100gm finely chopped italian salami. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

113

Smoked coffee and
spice-rubbed
tomahawk steaks
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 40 MINS
(PLUS STANDING, RESTING)

Coffee, cumin and coriander seeds,
bring a rich and smoky depth of flavour
to these showstopper steaks.

1 tbsp each cumin, fennel and
coriander seeds
2 tbsp smoked sea salt flakes
1 tbsp each smoked paprika, garlic
powder and onion powder
1 tbsp each brown sugar and ground
coffee
½ tsp each chilli powder and cayenne
pepper
2 tomahawk steaks (1.5kg each;
see note)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1 For spice mixture, place cumin, fennel
and coriander seeds in a small saucepan
over medium-high heat. Toast, tossing
frequently in pan, until fragrant (1-2
minutes). Transfer to a mortar and pestle
and grind to a coarse powder. Transfer
to a small bowl and combine with salt,
remaining spices, powders, sugar and
coffee; set aside.
2 Place steaks on a large oven tray,
drizzle with oil and scatter liberally with
spice mixture. Cover and stand at room
temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour
before cooking.
4 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
or char-grill pan to medium-high heat.
Barbecue, turning frequently, until
cooked to your liking (30-35 minutes for
medium). If steak begins to blacken too
much, reduce heat to medium-low to
finish cooking. Transfer steak to a tray
and set aside in a warm place to rest (15
minutes). Slice, scatter with extra spice
rub and serve immediately.
Note A tomahawk steak is the rib of beef
with the rib bone left on. Ask your
butcher to cut it for you; if unavailable,
substitute rib-eye cutlets.

114

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Makrut lime, lemongrass and cider glazed ham
SERVES 16-20 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

Delicate slices of green apple studded with cloves will turn your ham into a theatrical
centrepiece for the Christmas table. Make sure you take time to layer the slices evenly.
Pictured p116

1 leg ham, bone in (about 7kg;
see note)
2 green apples, very thinly sliced
Cloves, for securing
MAKRUT LIME, LEMONGRASS AND
CIDER GLAZE

1 litre sparkling apple cider
1 kg brown sugar
500 ml (2 cups) freshly squeezed green
apple juice
180 ml (¾ cup) apple cider vinegar
15 makrut lime leaves, bruised
2 stalks lemongrass, cut into 10cm
lengths, bruised
2½ tbsp finely grated ginger
1 Preheat oven to 200°C. For glaze,
place ingredients in a large saucepan
over high heat. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until sugar has dissolved
(5 minutes). Bring to the boil and cook,
stirring occasionally, until reduced
by a quarter and mixture is syrupy
(35-40 minutes). Stand at room
temperature and strain just before
using; discard solids.
2 To prepare ham, starting from the end
opposite the hock, remove skin, leaving
fat in place. Cut around the hock to
release skin, before using your fingers
to gently remove the skin (reserve skin).
Place ham, on a wire rack, fat-side up,
in a large, deep-sided roasting pan.
Pour in 750ml water. Roast ham, basting
every 10 minutes, until ham is golden
and caramelised (35-40 minutes).
Arrange slices of apples, slightly
overlapping, onto fat-side of ham,
securing with cloves. Roast, glazing
every 10 minutes, until apples are golden
and caramelised (50 minutes – 1 hour).
3 Transfer to a large serving platter.
Brush with a little remaining glaze.
Serve with extra glaze on the side.
Carve as desired.

Note We always use fresh Australian
pork rather than hams made in Australia
from frozen imported meat. Look for the
pink Australian Pork logo. Store leftover
ham covered with reserved ham skin in
the fridge.

Zucchini salad with
lime and coconut milk
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 5 MINS

Pictured p116

400 ml coconut milk
2 tbsp lime juice, or to taste
60 ml (¼ cup) ham glaze (see glazed
ham recipe)
3 tsp finely grated ginger
2 green zucchini (150gm each), thinly
shaved lengthways on a mandolin
3 grey zucchini (200gm each), thinly
shaved lengthways on a mandolin
3 yellow patty pan squash, shaved on
a mandolin
4 zucchini flowers, stamens removed,
petals separated, stems shaved
lengthways on a mandolin
1 cup (firmly packed) Thai basil leaves
Dried chilli threads, to serve
1 For zucchini salad, place coconut
milk, lime juice, cooled glaze and ginger
in a small bowl, season and whisk to
combine. Place zucchini in a large
bowl with 80ml dressing, three-quarters
of Thai basil, season and toss gently
to combine.
2 Transfer zucchini salad to a large
serving bowl, drizzle with remaining
dressing and scatter with remaining
Thai basil leaves and dried chilli threads;
serve immediately.
Note Leftover dressing can be stored in
an airtight container for up to 7 days.

Summer melon salad
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 15 MINS

125 ml (½ cup) each lemon-infused
extra-virgin olive oil and apple
cider vinegar
1 tbsp each Dijon mustard and honey
2 cups (loosely packed) shredded
red cabbage
4 baby mixed heirloom radishes,
trimmed, shaved on a mandolin (we
use baby French breakfast, red and
watermelon radishes)
2 baby fennel bulbs, trimmed, shaved
on a mandolin, fronds reserved
1 mini watermelon, peeled, cut into
into wedges
1 For dressing, combine oil, vinegar,
mustard and honey in a bowl, season to
taste and whisk to combine.
2 Place remaining ingredients in a large
serving bowl. Add dressing, season to
taste and toss well to combine.
3 To serve, scatter with reserved
fennel fronds. 

Tomahawk Artistica
round plate in Midnight
Blue from Tomkin. All
other props stylist’s own.

Makrut lime,
lemongrass and
cider glazed ham

p

114

Ham Artistica round and
oval plates in Midnight
Blue from Tomkin.
Mipreshus crystal high
ball glasses from Fairfax
& Roberts. All other
props stylist’s own.

116

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

transport your tastebuds to
the beaches

‘THE BEACHES’ GIN - A luscious, tropical, gin-a-colada style gin distilled
on the beaches of Sydney. A mix of sweet pineapple and citrus lime
backbone, with classic tropical flavours of mango, banana and coconut.
The Beaches gin is also the gift that keeps on
giving, with Manly Spirits Co. donating $5 from
every bottle sold to the Australian Marine
Conservation Society: Australia’s only national
charity dedicated solely to protecting our

With a flavour profile that
combines
iconic
summer
ingredients – mango, coconut,
and pine-n-line ice cream, The
Beaches is a full-flavoured gin
that’s perfect for tropical summer
cocktails. Available for a limited
time only, this exclusive spirit
is perfect for Christmas gifting
and is sure to get your name on
Santa’s ‘nice’ list.

precious ocean wildlife. Funds
raised will directly contribute
to reducing ocean plastics and
protecting some of Australia’s
threatened & endangered marine
species.
The Beaches gin (RRP $95 700ml
bottle) can be purchased online
via manlyspirits.com.au and is
available for delivery nationwide.

manlyspirits.com.au

Enjoy Manly Spirits Gin Responsibily

It’s the most wonderful time of
the year, and it’s about to get
a whole lot better with Manly
Spirits Co.’s latest limited edition
gin release – The Beaches.

COCKTAIL RECIPES
TO TRY AT HOME

Pho to g raphy

B EN
NL

WA
L

AR

SH

DE

Coconut and
cherry frangipane
tart

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

EN
VI

g

l in

JO
118

120

VI

EY

Y

p

St

d
to t
l
r
o
he w

y

A.P Bakery brings comfort and joy
to the Christmas table with these
festive treats designed to share.
Recipes DOUGAL MUFFET
Food preparation LUCY BUSUTTIL

Christmas fruit
mince pie

p

124

Frangipane tart
Venetian Jade honed
agglomerate terrazzo
used throughout.
All other props
stylist’s own.

C

hristmas is a busy time for most, but more so for bakeries. When we
speak to A.P Bakery’s Dougal Muffet, weeks ahead of the holiday, the
team is ramping up production. “December is the busiest time of year,”
says the former Ester chef, who swapped restaurants for bakeries in 2016.
“So finishing on the 24th, we scrub the place down. Then it’s about getting to the
country with family and friends. Good food is well-earned,” says Muffet.
This Christmas rounds out a stellar year for Muffet and partners Mat Lindsay
and Russell Beard. In early 2022 the trio opened A.P Bakery, a thoughtful
viennoiserie located atop Surry Hills’ Paramount House. Then in July, they opened
a Newtown outpost. The venture’s success is owed, in part, to Muffet’s reputation
for crafting inventive-yet-classic pastries, breads and biscuits. This made Muffet our
first port of call to reimagine baked treats at a time of year when traditions can
become stale. “Many Christmas traditions are so northern hemisphere-based but
here it can be 40 degrees. Typical techniques and flavours don’t translate,” he says.
“It’s finding things you can do here and adapting them for the environment.”
These recipes bring a distinct Australian edge to Christmas classics, featuring
fresh summer produce, such as mango and Davidson’s plums. While Muffet
encourages bakers to be methodical, he also encourages flexibility. “We’re
free-flowing with what’s growing,” he says. “When baking you have to follow the
process but not be confined by flavours. Be flexible with finding substitutes.”
80 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, NSW, apbakery.com.au

Coconut and cherry frangipane tart
SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)

250 gm unsalted butter, at room
temperature
150 gm coconut sugar
150 gm raw sugar
Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean
4 eggs, at room temperature,
lightly beaten,
300 gm (2 large coconuts) finely
grated fresh coconut (see note)
1 tsp ground star anise
35 gm plain flour, sifted
150 gm sour cherry jam
300 gm cherries, pitted and halved
Icing sugar and honey, to serve
SWEET PASTRY

200 gm unsalted butter, cut into
1cm cubes
200 gm caster sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
500 gm plain flour, sifted
1 For sweet pastry, beat butter and
sugar in a large bowl of an electric mixer
fitted with a paddle attachment on high

speed until light and fluffy, scraping
down the bowl occasionally (5 minutes).
Gradually pour in egg and beat until
combined. Reduce speed to low, add
flour and 1 tsp fine salt; mix until
combined. Divide dough in half and form
each half into a disc; wrap in plastic wrap
and rest in refrigerator (30 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, for frangipane, beat
butter, sugars, and vanilla seeds in
a large clean bowl of an electric mixer
fitted with a paddle attachment on high
speed until creamy and pale (3 minutes).
Gradually pour in egg and beat until
combined. Reduce speed to low, add
coconut, star anise and flour; beat until
just combined. Refrigerate until chilled
and/or required.
3 Grease a 4cm-deep, 23cm-diameter
fluted, loose-based tart tin. Roll out
pastry on a lightly floured surface to
3mm thick, then line base and side of
prepared tin; trim edge and refrigerate
to rest (1 hour).

4 Preheat oven to 150˚C fan-forced.
Line tart shell with baking paper and
blind bake until lightly browned (20-25
minutes). Remove paper and weights;
bake until pastry is dry to touch (5
minutes). Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
5 Increase oven temperature to 170˚C
fan-forced. Spoon jam, then chilled
frangipane mixture into tart shell and
smooth over top. Bake tart until
frangipane is lightly golden (45-50
minutes), covering with foil if browning
too fast. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
6 To serve, top tart with cherries, dust
with icing sugar and drizzle with honey.
Note Crack and drain coconuts, place,
cut-side up on an oven tray in 200˚C
oven (20 minutes). Scoop flesh from
shells, peel off brown skin and grate with
a coconut grater or in a food processor.
If fresh coconut is unavailable, substitute
300gm dried shredded coconut, soak
in cold water for 4 hours. Drain and
squeeze out excess moisture.

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (PORTRAIT).

“For this recipe you will need to grate fresh coconut. You can do this yourself with the right tools (see note) or buy it grated from an
Asian or Indian grocer,” says Dougal Muffet. Make sweet pastry first to allow for chilling and resting. Pictured p118

Stollen
SERVES 12-14 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS RESTING, MACERATING, COOLING)

“This classic German festive bread, is usually made in advance and stored to allow the flavours to develop,” says Muffet. “Given the
heat and humidity of Australian summers the icing sugar tends to dissolve. If you do want to age your stollen, hold off on dusting it
with sugar. At A.P we make a naturally leavened stollen as the long fermentation period adds to the complexity of flavours. For
simplicity’s sake here, we have adapted the recipe to use dried yeast.” Begin this recipe a day ahead.

7
600
50
2
300
1
220

300

gm (1 sachet) dried yeast
gm bread flour, sifted
gm caster sugar
tsp each ground cardamom, nutmeg
and allspice
ml lukewarm milk
egg, at room temperature, lightly
beaten
gm unsalted butter, coarsely
chopped, at room temperature
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean
gm marzipan
Melted clarified butter, for brushing
Icing sugar, for dusting
MACERATED FRUIT AND NUTS

80 gm mixed peel
50 gm each diced apricots, crimson
raisins (see note) and chopped
whole blanched almonds
100 ml spiced rum
1 To macerate fruit, place ingredients in
a container and mix well to combine.
Cover with a lid and macerate overnight.
2 To make dough, combine yeast, flour,

sugar, 1⁄2 tsp fine salt and spices in
a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
a dough hook; mix on low-medium
speed until combined. Add milk and
egg; mix until dough comes together
and pulls away from side (2 minutes).
Gradually add butter, beating until
incorporated. Add zest and vanilla,
followed by macerated mixture; continue
to mix until fruit and nuts are distributed
evenly throughout dough. Transfer to
a lightly oiled bowl, cover loosely with
plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight
to slow prove.
3 The following day, remove dough from
refrigerator; set aside in a warm place
to prove until dough doubles in size
(11⁄2 hours).
4 Meanwhile, halve marzipan, roll each
piece out on a piece of baking paper into
an 18cm log; set aside until required.
5 Grease and line two large oven trays
with baking paper. Halve dough, and
working with one piece of dough at
a time, knock dough back and roll,
on a lightly floured work surface, to

a 18cm x 30cm rectangle. With a short
side facing you, place a marzipan log
widthways on the upper one-third of the
dough. Fold one third of the dough away
from you into centre, then fold over
again to form a rectangle; ensuring
marzipan is centred. Repeat with
remaining dough and marzipan.
Transfer stollen, same-way up
onto prepared trays. Prove in
a warm place until doubled in size
(30 minutes).
6 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180˚C.
Bake stollen until slightly risen and
golden, and a skewer inserted in centre
comes out clean (1 hour). Transfer to
a wire rack and brush tops immediately
with clarified butter then leave to cool.
Once cooled, repeat brush again with
clarified butter (reheat if necessary) and
liberally dust with icing sugar.
Note Crimson raisins, similar to golden
raisins but sweeter, are available from
select supermarkets and specialty
food shops. ➤

Stollen Glass
baubles from
Maison Balzac
used throughout.
All other props
stylist’s own.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

121

122

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Paris-Brest with ricotta Chantilly and Davidson’s plum
SERVES 10 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS RESTING, COOLING, CHILLING)

“For choux pastry it’s important to use a high protein flour, labelled as bread flour,” says Muffet. Begin this recipe a day ahead.

80
15
1
110
3

gm unsalted butter, chopped
gm milk powder
tsp caster sugar
gm bread flour, sifted
eggs, at room temperature, lightly
beaten, plus extra egg, lightly beaten
for eggwash
2 tbsp roasted blanched hazelnuts,
finely chopped
RICOTTA CHANTILLY

600 gm pouring cream
100 gm caster sugar
1⁄4 tsp kappa (see note)
Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean
200 gm fresh firm ricotta, drained (we use
Vannella whey ricotta; see note)
DAVIDSON’S PLUM COMPOTE

200 gm frozen Davidson’s plums, pitted
and thawed (see note)
90 gm caster sugar
30 gm liquid glucose
HAZELNUT PRALINE

80 gm caster sugar
100 gm roasted blanched hazelnuts
1 For ricotta Chantilly, place cream,
sugar, kappa and vanilla seeds in a
saucepan over medium heat and using
a whisk, stir to combine. Cook, stirring
continuously until mixture comes to
a simmer (4-5 minutes). Transfer to
a bowl, cool slightly, cover and
refrigerate overnight. Just before using,
place cream mixture and ricotta
in a bowl of an electric mixer and whisk
until firm peaks; transfer to a piping bag
fitted with a 1.5cm star nozzle; refrigerate
until firm and use as required (1 hour).
2 Meanwhile, for plum compote, place
ingredients in a saucepan over high heat
and bring to the boil, stirring frequently
(5 minutes). Reduce heat to low and
simmer until combined and sugar has
dissolved (3-4 minutes); cool completely.
Cover and refrigerate until required.

3 For praline, stir sugar and 20ml water
in a saucepan over medium-high heat
until sugar dissolves (3-4 minutes). Bring
to the boil, swirling pan as mixture forms
a dark caramel (5-6 minutes). Remove
from heat, stir in hazelnuts and a pinch
of salt with a lightly oiled fork, tip onto a
lightly oiled oven tray and stand until set
(40 minutes). When ready to serve, finely
chop praline in a food processor and
use as required.
4 For choux pastry, place butter, milk
powder, sugar, 200ml water and ½ tsp
fine salt in a large saucepan over
medium heat, stirring frequently until
mixture boils (3 minutes). Remove from
heat, quickly add flour in one lot, and
using a large wooden spoon, beat
to combine. Return pan to medium heat;
beat until mixture comes together and
starts to leave side of pan (2-3 minutes).
Transfer to an electric mixer; beat until
dough is cooled slightly (2-3 minutes).
5 Gradually beat in egg, holding back
a little of the egg and checking texture
of mixture; it should have a dropping
consistency. Only add more egg if pastry
is still stiff. Transfer dough to a piping
bag fitted with a 1cm star nozzle and
refrigerate until firmer (45 minutes).
6 Preheat oven to 180˚C fan-forced.
Line an oven tray with baking paper, then
trace a 20cm-diameter circle on paper
with a pencil and turn paper pencil-side
down. Using circle as a template, pipe
a circle of choux pastry, sealing ends

with a swift flick. Pipe a second circle of
choux around outside of the first so
they’re touching, but not overlapping.
Finally, pipe a third circle of pastry over
join where the two circles meet (it’s
important to pay attention to the joins;
if they’re not closed properly, they will
burst open during baking). Carefully
brush top with eggwash and scatter with
hazelnuts. Bake until golden (15 minutes),
then rotate tray, reduce heat to 160˚C
fan-forced; bake until very crisp and
golden brown (20-25 minutes). Transfer
to a wire rack to cool.
7 To assemble, split choux pastry ring
in half horizontally with a serrated knife.
Spread compote on each cut half and
scatter with a little praline. Pipe
Chantilly cream over base, sandwich
with top, scatter with more praline.
Serve immediately.
Note Frozen Davidson’s plums are
available online from Creative Native
Foods. Kappa, a seaweed extract used
to firm and hold dairy products, is
available online from The Red Spoon
Company. Vannella whey ricotta is
available online from Vannella Cheese
or Doorstep Organics. ➤

Buckwheat ginger
spiced biscuits

Christmas fruit mince pie

MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)

“This classic Christmas offering is almost always the same with only minor variants.
I am a firm believer in a few things: a mince pie must have a lid, generous booze and
punchy levels of spice,” says Muffet. “Make fruit mince well in advance as time lets
the booze and the fruit harmonise.” Begin this recipe 8 days ahead. Pictured p119

“We toast buckwheat groats and then
mill to create a fine flour,” says Muffet.
“If you don’t have a mill, you can
toast buckwheat flour to create
the same effect.”

MAKES 24 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING, MACERATING, FREEZING, COOLING)

1 egg, lightly beaten for eggwash
Raw sugar, for sprinkling
FRUIT MINCE

150 gm buckwheat flour
200 gm plain flour
3 tsp each ground ginger and
cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice
½ tsp each baking powder and
bicarbonate of soda
225 gm unsalted butter, chopped
200 gm rapadura sugar
150 gm raw sugar, plus extra for coating
1 egg, plus 1 yolk
1 Sift buckwheat flour into a large frying
pan; cook, stirring continuously over
medium heat until toasted and lightly
golden (4-5 minutes); set aside to cool.
2 Sift toasted buckwheat flour with flour,
spices, baking powder and bicarbonate
of soda into a large bowl.
3 Melt butter in a small saucepan over
medium heat (1 minute). Transfer to a
large bowl and cool slightly. Add sugars,
egg and yolk and, using a whisk, stir
gently until combined. Add sifted dry
ingredients and fold until combined.
4 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Grease and
line 3 large oven trays with baking paper.
Place extra raw sugar in a large shallow
bowl. Divide cookie dough into 10 (about
90gm) portions. Roll each portion into
a ball then coat in raw sugar. Place on
prepared trays, pressing cookies flat to
approximately 8cm round (leaving 5cm
between each to allow for spreading).
5 Bake, swapping trays halfway through
cooking, until golden around edge and
small cracks appear on top (15 minutes).
Cool on trays, then store in an airtight
container until required. Biscuits will
keep for 7 days in an airtight container.
Gift as desired.

124

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

210
210
45
60
60
75
1
20
2
½
¼
1

gm raisins
gm currants
gm candied orange (see note)
ml peated whisky
ml brandy
gm (1⁄2 cup) brown sugar
Granny Smith apple (about 180gm),
peeled, cored, cut into 1cm pieces
gm unsalted butter, chopped
tbsp lemon juice
tsp each ground allspice, cinnamon
and nutmeg
tsp ground cloves
vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
SABLE PASTRY

325 gm unsalted butter, at room
temperature
165 gm icing sugar, sifted
4 egg yolks, at room temperature
435 gm plain flour, sifted
Pinch of ground cloves
1 To macerate fruit for fruit mince, place
dried fruit, candied orange and spirits in
an airtight container with a lid; mix until
well combined. Cover with lid and
refrigerate for 1 week.
2 To complete fruit mince, place sugar
in a large saucepan over medium heat;
cook, stirring continuously, until melted
(3 minutes). Add apple and stir to coat
(1 minute). Add butter, increase heat to
medium-high; cook, stirring frequently,
until apple is coated in caramel
(3 minutes). Set aside until cooled, then
stir into fruit mixture with lemon juice,
spices, vanilla seeds and bean. Cover
with lid and refrigerate overnight.
3 For sable pastry, place butter and
icing sugar in a bowl of an electric mixer

and using a paddle attachment, beat on
medium speed until pale but not aerated.
Add egg yolks one at a time and beat
until combined. Add flour and 1⁄2 tsp salt
and beat until combined. Shape dough
into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and
refrigerate to rest (1 hour).
4 Grease 24, 62mm-diameter
disposable foil jam tart tins (see note).
Working quickly, as pastry is short, roll
out pastry on lightly floured baking paper
to 2mm thick (if pastry warms slide it
onto a tray and place in the freezer for
a few minutes before continuing to roll).
5 Cut 48, 8cm-diameter rounds from
pastry, re-rolling scraps as needed. Line
tins with half the rounds, pressing firmly
into base and side; place on large oven
trays. Spoon 1 heaped tablespoon of fruit
mince filling into cases. Eggwash outer
edge of remaining pastry rounds and
place over filling, pressing edges to seal;
trim edges. Poke a small 2mm hole in the
centre of each pie. Freeze pies until
pastry is frozen (2-3 hours).
6 Preheat oven to 160˚C. Remove pies
from freezer, brush with eggwash and
sprinkle with raw sugar; bake until
golden (20-25 minutes). Transfer to
a wire rack to cool. Gift as desired.
Note A.P Bakery makes its own candied
orange but this is also available from
select supermarkets and specialty food
shops. Foil jam tart tins are available
from baking shops and online. ➤

Merveilleux Martini
glass from Maison
Balzac. All other
props stylist’s own.

126

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Mango macadamia merveilleux
with Dulcey cream
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS REFRIGERATING, COOLING)

“Pronounced mair-ve-y-eu and meaning ‘wonderful’, this spectacular meringue-based
dessert is the perfect alternative to the ubiquitous Christmas pavlova,” says Muffet.

100 gm roasted macadamias, finely
chopped in a food processor
2 mangoes, cut into 5mm cubes
100 gm (2 cups) coconut flakes
MERINGUE

12
600
1½
1

egg whites, at room temperature
gm caster sugar
tbsp cornflour, sifted
tbsp white vinegar
Icing sugar, for dusting
DULCEY CREAM

225 gm Valrhona Dulcey chocolate
(see note)
600 ml thickened cream
55 gm icing sugar, sifted
1 Preheat oven to 170°C. Line base and
sides of two, 3cm-deep, 23cm x 33cm
slice tins. Place half egg white in a bowl
of an electric mixer; whisk on high speed
until stiff peaks form. Gradually add half
the caster sugar, whisking until glossy.
Fold in half each of the cornflour and
vinegar, then spread into prepared tin.
Bake until lightly golden and slightly
puffed (18-20 minutes). Set aside to cool
in tin (10 minutes). Turn out onto a piece
of baking paper dusted heavily with icing
sugar and set aside. Repeat with
remaining egg white, sugar, cornflour,
and vinegar to create two meringues.
2 Taking care as the meringue is
delicate and tricky to handle, halve both
meringues lengthways, then trim edges
to yield four equal-sized meringue
rectangles. Discard (or eat) trimmings.
You will only need three meringue
rectangles for this recipe, the fourth is
leftover or a back up (see note).
3 Meanwhile, for Dulcey cream,
place chocolate and 125ml cream in
a large heatproof bowl and melt over
a saucepan of barely simmering water,

stirring occasionally, until smooth; cool
to room temperature (15 minutes). Whisk
remaining cream in a bowl of an electric
mixer to soft peaks. By hand, gradually
fold in chocolate mixture. Return bowl
to electric mixer, and whisk to just firm
peaks (take care to not over whip or
mixture will split). Transfer to a piping
bag fitted with a 1.5cm round nozzle;
refrigerate until cream has firmed up
(30 minutes).
4 To assemble, place a meringue
rectangle on a serving plate. Pipe
a quarter of cream over meringue and
spread evenly with a small spatula;
scatter with half each of macadamias
and mango. Top with second meringue
rectangle and repeat with cream,
macadamias, and mango. Top with third
meringue and finish with cream. Lightly
spread remaining cream over sides and
scatter all over with coconut flakes,
pressing gently to secure. Refrigerate
until cream firms up, then serve.
Note Valrhona Dulcey white couverture
chocolate is available from specialty food
shops. If unavailable, substitute Cadbury
Caramilk or other white chocolate. The
contingency meringue rectangle can be
roughly cut or torn and scattered over
merveilleux when serving. 

Photography BEN DEARNLEY

SKILLS &
THRILLS

Loaded potato
latkes

p

133

Food writer ALICE ZASLAVSKY joins in the festive spirit as she shares
some vibrant recipes from her new cookbook, The Joy of Better Cooking.

Cheerio cherry
yule log

p

134

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

129

F

irst of all, let’s toss out the concept of being a “good” cook, and
replace it with the idea of becoming a better cook. Better cooking
is a lifelong journey. It’s made up of single steps, with plenty of
whoopsies and notes-for-next-time along the way. Every step gets
you a bit closer to cracking the codes that unlock the confidence to feel
freedom and joy in the kitchen.
Forget about cooking for someone else’s tastes or expectations. I’ve
tried doing that in the past, and would strongly not recommend. Why?
Because fear lives here, and the paralysis of choice. Oh, and doubt,
of course, about what it is you should be doing, and whether you’re
good enough.
The joy of better cooking, is that you can stop second-guessing yourself.
You can look into the fridge/freezer/pantry and instantly start to see ideas
and inspiration before you, rather than feeling overwhelmed or at a loss.
Relax into the rhythm, release any expectations of perfection or outcome.
Go with the flow, take a breath, and remind yourself: I’ve got this.

130

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Pumpkin wedge mujadara
SERVES 4-6

“My babushka Raya and I didn’t always see eye to eye,” says Alice Zaslavsky. “She’d say, ‘Your room should be like a candy,’ when
it more resembled a wasteland of discarded wrappers, but one thing we both loved was thrifting. In my teens, I’d walk with her to
the op-shops down the road, where they’d know her by name, but in my 20s, I’d treat her to a drive down the highway to the
biggest op-shop within a 100 kilometre radius: Savers Frankston. Two storeys of second-hand shmatters that we would both
enthusiastically trawl for mohair cardigans and plaid skirts. We’d cap off the trip by visiting the teeny Turkish cafe next door, for the
jewel in the weekly crown: a tub of mujadara. Sweet with caramelised onion, with chewy lentils and fluffy rice, this was another
thing we could both agree on.”

210 gm (1 cup) Puy lentils
1.25 kg jap pumpkin, cut into 8 wedges,
seeds removed
3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
4 large brown onions, halved and
thinly sliced
2-3 star anise
125 ml (½ cup) grapeseed oil
½ bunch of kale, stems removed,
leaves shredded
200 gm (1 cup) long-grain rice
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed
40 gm (¼ cup) pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
40 gm (¼ cup) sunflower seeds
½ bunch of coriander, stems finely
chopped, leaves reserved
1 pomegranate
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 Preheat oven to 200°C and line two
large roasting tins with baking paper.
2 Boil a kettle, put lentils in a bowl and
pour in enough water to cover the lentils
by 1cm, then leave to languish.
3 Brush pumpkin wedges with 2 tbsp of
the oil and sprinkle with salt flakes and
pepper. Place standing up in one of the
roasting tins and bake for 45 minutes,

until golden and soft, turning the tray
halfway through cooking.
4 Meanwhile, put onion in the other
roasting tin with star anise, grapeseed oil
and a sprinkle of salt. Give onion slices
a good massage, then roast for 30
minutes. Once they start to caramelise
on the edges, give them a little stir to let
the ones underneath come up for hot air.
They’re ready once coloured, softened
and very sweet.
5 Using a slotted spoon, scoop onion
out of roasting tin and set aside. Add
shredded kale to the roasting tin, tossing
it through the left-over oil in the pan.
Roast for 10-15 minutes.
6 Meanwhile, drain lentils in a finemeshed sieve. Add rice, rinsing under
cold water until the water runs clear.
Tip them into your rice cooker, or
a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add
bay leaf, garlic and 3 cups (750ml) cold
water and stir. If using a rice cooker, walk
away and live your life. If using the
absorption method in a saucepan, stir
the mixture occasionally until the water
comes to the boil, turn the heat down,
put the lid on and cook for 15 minutes,
then turn off the heat and leave to rest

for 5 minutes more. Whatever route
you took, once cooked, fluff up the rice
mixture with a fork, and fish out the
bay leaf and garlic.
7 Heat a dry frying pan until smoking.
Add pepitas and sunflower seeds and
toss about for a minute or two, until
slightly toasted.
8 Toss roasted onion and kale into the
rice and lentils with most of the toasted
seeds and nuts, chopped coriander
stems, and any oil left in the onion
baking tin. Taste for seasoning.
9 Cut pomegranate in half. Knock seeds
out of one half, add some of them to the
rice mixture and toss well. Juice the
remaining pomegranate half and mix the
juice (and any extra juice from the seeds)
with the pomegranate molasses, to make
a dressing.
10 Place mujadara on a serving platter.
Arrange pumpkin wedges on top. Scatter
with the remaining pomegranate seeds
and toasted seeds and nuts. Pour
pomegranate dressing over with an extra
drizzle of olive oil, garnish with coriander
leaves and serve. ➤

Glacé beetroot, blackberry and orange veringues
SERVES 6-8

“A vegan meringue – a veringue! – tastes like the real thing. There’s no need to cook these veringues, which is totally brilliant. You won’t
end up with crunchy meringues; they’ll be marshmallowy, but still utterly delicious, with not a hint of chickpea flavour,” says Zaslavsky.

500 gm (2 cups) unsweetened coconut
yoghurt, chilled whipped organic
coconut cream or your favourite
plant-based cream
A handful of pistachio nut kernels,
cut into slivers
Baby red-vein sorrel leaves,
to garnish
GLACÉ BEETROOT, BLACKBERRY
AND ORANGE

110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar
2 slices of fresh ginger, about
2mm thick
1
beetroot, washed, peeled and cut
into 1cm cubes
250 gm blackberries (frozen are fine)
1 blood orange, zested and segmented,
reserving any juice
VERINGUES

185 ml (¾ cup) aquafaba (the drained
liquid from a 400gm tin of unsalted
organic chickpeas)
165 gm (¾ cup) caster sugar or golden
caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or
vanilla extract

1 For the glacé beetroot, combine sugar,
ginger and ½ cup (125 ml) water in
a small saucepan. Stir until sugar
dissolves, then bring to the boil. Add
beetroot and boil for 30 minutes, or until
only a few tablespoons of syrup are left
in the pan. Gently toss blackberries and
orange segments through, squeeze in
any juice from orange membranes, then
leave to cool. This will keep in an airtight
container in the fridge for a day or two;
remove ginger before serving.
2 Before starting on the veringues,
make sure your mixing bowl and whisk
attachment are scrupulously clean by
wiping with white vinegar on a clean tea
towel or paper towel to remove any
traces of fat, which will stop the aquafaba
foaming properly.
3 Using a stand mixer with the balloon
whisk attachment, or a hand-held beater
and a large metal bowl, beat aquafaba

on medium-high speed until volume
doubles and soft peaks form, which will
take about 5-10 minutes (depending on
your beaters).
4 Start whisking in the sugar one
tablespoon at a time until it is all used up,
whisking for another 5-10 minutes until
the veringue is like glossy cumulus
clouds, with no feeling of sugar-granule
grittiness when rubbed between your
fingertips, and tasting like marshmallow.
Mix in vanilla.
5 To serve, spoon veringue mixture
onto plates. If you like, use a kitchen
blowtorch to kiss the tips of the veringue
and singe slightly. Spoon your chosen
yoghurt or cream alongside and top
with glacé beetroot and blackberries;
the syrup will delightfully stain the cream.
Garnish with pistachios and sorrel leaves
and serve.

Loaded potato latkes
MAKES 2 (SERVES 4)

“A traditional Swiss rösti is larger than a traditional Jewish latke and contains nothing but potato. So I guess you could say that,
true to form, this is a twist on both, making it a latke-rösti hybrid,” says Zaslavsky. Pictured p128

6 starchy potatoes (about 1.2kg),
washed and scrubbed
1 brown onion, peeled
160 ml olive oil
TO SERVE

Your choice of toppings or garnishes;
we’ve used sliced avocado, baby
red-vein sorrel leaves, sauerkraut,
plant-based cream cheese and
lemon cheeks
1 Coarsely grate potato and onion,
using a box grater or food processor.
Line a large mixing bowl with a clean tea
towel, scoop potato and onion mixture
into the tea towel and sprinkle with 1 tsp
salt flakes. Squeeze salt into mixture
with your fingers.

2 Twist towel up into a bundle, then
squeeze with all your might to ooze
liquid into mixing bowl. I use a wooden
spoon as a tourniquet, but you could just
use brute force. It’s quite the workout!
Don’t throw out the liquid just yet.
3 Transfer potato mixture to a bowl and
leave to sit for 10 minutes. Carefully pour
off the liquid in the other bowl, leaving
just the gluey starch at the bottom, and
reincorporate this into the potato mixture
using your hands.
4 Heat a 28cm heavy-based frying
pan over medium heat. If your pan isn’t
non-stick, line the base with a round of
baking paper. Add a quarter of your oil
(roughly 2-3 tbsp). Loosely sprinkle in
half the potato mixture and cook for 15

minutes or until starting to turn golden.
5 After 15 minutes, scoop in the sides of
the latke. Grab a large flat plate or round
chopping board that fits just inside the
pan. Shake pan gently to loosen latke,
then pop the plate/board on top and flip
the latke out with confidence, being
careful of leaky oil.
6 Pour another quarter of the oil into the
pan. With the help of a spatula, carefully
usher the latke back in, cooked side up
and cook for a further 10 minutes.
7 Slip latke onto a serving platter or
chopping board and load up with your
chosen accoutrements, finishing with
black pepper and salt flakes to taste.
Serve immediately. Repeat with
remaining latke mixture. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

133

Cheerio cherry yule log
SERVES 6

“This retro celebration yule log is familiar, decadent and a bit Eastern Euro,” says Zaslavsky. Pictured p129
DARK CHOCOLATE ROULADE

200 gm dark chocolate
6 eggs, at room temperature
A splash of vinegar
165 gm caster sugar
30 gm unsweetened cocoa powder
CHANTILLY CHERRY FILLING

200 gm pitted sour morello cherries
(jarred or tinned), plus 250ml of the
sour cherry juice
300 ml whipping cream
2 tsp vanilla bean paste
TO FINISH

Icing sugar, for dusting
Foraged (unsprayed) foliage
250 gm fresh cherries (optional)
1 Preheat oven to 175°C. Grease
a 25cm x 35cm Swiss roll or brownie
tin and line with baking paper.
2 For roulade, place chocolate in
a heatproof bowl placed over a pan of
simmering water, ensuring base of bowl
isn’t touching the water. Stir occasionally
to melt chocolate, then leave to cool.
3 Separate eggs into two clean bowls.
4 Splash some vinegar on a clean tea
towel and wipe mixing bowl of a stand
mixer until clean and dry. Place egg
whites into bowl and, using a balloon
whisk attachment, whisk on high speed
for 5 minutes, until stiff peaks – you
should be able to hold bowl over your
head. Use a flexible spatula to transfer
whites into a new bowl. Set aside.

5 Add egg yolks and sugar to the stand
mixer bowl – no need to clean out any
stray egg white. Whisk for 3-4 minutes,
until thick and creamy. Add melted
chocolate, folding it through with
a flexible spatula until incorporated.
Sprinkle in half a teaspoon salt and
sift in cocoa powder.
6 Pull bowl out of the mixer. Add a big
spoonful of beaten egg whites, then add
the rest, folding it through in a figure-eight
motion. Try not to knock out air.
7 Transfer batter to your lined tin and
bake for 10-15 minutes, or until the top
springs back when gently touched.
Remove from oven and leave to cool,
covered with a clean tea towel.
8 Meanwhile, to make filling, place sour
cherry juice in a small saucepan, bring to
the boil over high heat, then allow to
cook for a few minutes, until reduced by
half. Pour over sour cherries and pop
into the fridge to chill.
9 Clean stand mixer bowl and place in
fridge, ready for whipping cream (this is
quicker when cream and utensils are
cold). Using a balloon whisk attachment,
whip cream with vanilla paste until
billowy but soft, then fold through cooled
cherries and juice to form a ripple.
10 Line a cooling rack with a fresh sheet
of baking paper. When sponge cake has
cooled, lift off tea towel and evenly sift
some icing sugar across sponge. Place
cooling rack over sponge, baking paper

face-side down, and invert cake onto
rack, so it’s sitting face down on the
fresh baking paper. Slide baking paper
and cake onto your workbench and peel
off old paper that was used to line tin.
11 Spoon and schmear whipped cream
over sponge, leaving a 2cm edge all
around. Then, using fresh baking paper
underneath, gently roll log from short
side, making allowance for cream to
spread. There will be a few cracks and
graceful wrinkles. If you like, trim one of
the log ends off on an angle, then add it
to the side of the log to make the shape
more log-like. Transfer to a serving
platter or board.
12 Sift icing sugar all over and into
cracks. For particularly gnarly cracks,
sprinkle a little cocoa powder into them,
then more icing sugar. Garnish with
foliage and serve with fresh cherries. 

This extract from The Joy
of Better Cooking by
Alice Zaslavsky (Murdoch
Books, $49.99), has been
reproduced with minor
GT style edits.

134

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

INTRODUCING

TIMBERLINE XL

DISCOVER THE PINNACLE OF OUTDOOR COOKING

Feed good, do

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good

With Frontier Pets, you know exactly what’s going into the bowl. Free-range
meat and certified organic produce all sourced from Aussie Farmers.
It’s good for our dogs and good to support Aussie farmers. Our pets are
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DECEMBER

Jodhpur, the Blue
City, India

p

140

New perspectives

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

Reframing Christmas, luxe India,
a chef ’s guide to Vienna, exploring
Bordeaux and Ace Hotel Sydney.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

137

The art of...
feeling festive

Forget all the clichés that constitute Christmassiness. For
travellers, the festive spirit celebrates the trips, gatherings
and adventures that lie ahead, says ANNA HART.

The art of travel

ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

W

Anna is a travel
and lifestyle
journalist, and
author of the
travel memoir
Departures.
@annadothart

hen I moved from London to
I loved the weather, because sunshine lubricates the
Auckland, a Kiwi friend issued the
social carousel of Christmas much more effectively
following festive warning: “Just
than snow. I loved the lawlessness of Christmas
don’t expect Christmas to feel
cuisine, liberated as we were from the UK’s
Christmassy. Christmas isn’t Christmassy in
state-mandated menu of turkey and Christmas
Australia or New Zealand.” She was being kind,
pudding. Tasked solely with creating something
and wanted to prepare this ignorant Irish migrant
celebratory, we had so much more fun in the
for a scorching hot Christmas, one bereft of snow,
kitchen, making sushi, assembling charcuterie
snowmen, fir trees, sleds and tarts-with-a-heart
and cheeseboards, and discovering Gisborne
proffering figgy pudding to plaintive urchins.
chardonnays and Hawke’s Bay pinot gris. I adored
“Christmassiness” (not “Christmas”, which is
beginning our day with a swim in the sea, as all
different) is essentially a cluster of Dickensian
good holidays should. I adored our Boxing Day
tropes that have been skilfully appropriated by
barbecue on the beach, rubbing happily up against
high street stores to sell their wares. In Europe
other families and gangs of friends, a formality-free
and North America, this is a well-executed and
fiesta that made me fall deeper in love with my
convincing marketing strategy, and my friend
new community.
feared I’d grieve for this colonialist and capitalist
In fact, this wasn’t my first sunny Christmas.
sham amid Auckland’s summer sunshine.
I grew up between Belfast and Singapore, so I am
“Christmas isn’t Christmassy,” she said, “but
accustomed to Christmases that feel more tropical
everyone looks forward to Christmas because
than Narnian. (My creative parents assured us that
it’s the start of the summer holidays.” My eyes
Santa would come down the rubbish chute of our
widened, like a plaintive
apartment block, in the absence
urchin, because I had never
of a chimney.) I’m accustomed
I
now
want
Christmas
heard of such decadence, such
to Christmas dinners that
to
shine
as
brightly
sophistication, such luxury.
haven’t harmed
Christmas signalling the start of
a turkey or a sprout. But my
as the summer sun,
something, rather than the end of
Christmas in New Zealand was
a celebration of what
everything? I gazed in wonder at
different. What I adored most
is
yet
to
come,
a
festive
my benevolent friend, as if she
was the thrill of anticipation
were a tart-with-a-heart
about the summer, the
frenzy of future fun.
proffering figgy pudding. “You
excitement in the air about the
mean we actually get to look forward to the period
holidays, the sense that good things are coming, and
after Christmas?” I asked. What a generous gift
that now is the time to plan for them.
New Zealand was bestowing upon me! I’ll take this
That first Christmas in Auckland changed how
over some grotty snow any day of the week.
I view Christmas forever. I was no longer content for
In the northern hemisphere, Christmas is an
Christmas to feel like one last hurrah before we all
appropriately “Christmassy” holiday with a dark
give up on joy and light and sink submissively into
undercurrent of woe, because we know that when
six months of darkness. What’s festive about that?
it is gone, we have nothing. Christmas in Europe
No, I now want Christmas to shine as brightly as the
doesn’t just mark the end of the year. It’s the end
summer sun, a celebration of what is yet to come,
of the holidays. It’s the end of anticipation, of
a festive frenzy of future fun plans with friends and
having anything to look forward to, until June. It’s
family. Naturally I can’t deny the realities of national
the end of pleasure, the end of eating and drinking
school holidays and the seasons themselves, but it is
and being merry, because we’re about to start some
certainly within my power to see Christmas as the
nasty diet that will make us feel cold. It’s the end
perfect time to map out my travel and holiday plans
of generosity and spending money on ourselves
for the year ahead. By doing so, I make Christmas
and others, as buyer’s remorse settles in for winter.
the start of the holidays, just as it is in New Zealand.
It’s the end of entertaining friends and family, the
Whether I’m spending my Christmas in California,
end of decorating our homes with colour and
or Yorkshire, or Belfast, or Melbourne, or any other
sparkle, the end of dressing in jolly party outfits.
place my loved ones are littered, I come bearing
If we’re hungover, which we all are, it feels like
the attitude that Auckland gave me for Christmas
the end of the world.
10 years ago: Christmas is a beginning, not an end. 
So I adored my first Antipodean Christmas.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

139

Local colour in Jodhpur, the
Blue City. Opposite:
blue-painted houses
around the Mehrangarh
Fort in Jodhpur.

A luxe tour of India serves up a masala of delights – from
revamped royal palaces to discovering curries fit to
grace a Maharaja’s table, writes FIONA DONNELLY.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

MONSOON
M AG I C

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

141

I

t’s just before dawn and I’m shadowing a red-turbaned Rabari
herdsman who’s come to collect me for my leopard safari.
As our feet scrunch on the gravel path, clouds of insects take
wing from the long monsoon-fed grasses, drawn by the lamp he’s
carrying. The churr and thrum created by the crickets and katydids
build such a hypnotic wall of sound, I feel I’m in a waking dream.
This dreaming-awake state is one I’ve been happily dropping in
and out of since landing in India. I flew in as a passenger on the
inaugural Qantas flight from Sydney to Karnataka’s capital,
Bengaluru. It’s the first time the national carrier has directly
connected to southern India.
I’d been advised by seasoned India-goers I’d experience sensory
overload. Everything about India would be louder, more vivid and
possibly more confronting than anything I’d experienced. And
they weren’t wrong. Not yet halfway through an eight-day trip I’ve
already lost count of the times I’ve stopped to ask myself – is this
actually real?
It’s the natural drama of India that creates these magical, highdefinition moments and the spell-casting reaches its zenith at
far-flung Suján Jawai, a luxury safari camp in the heart of Rajasthan.
We arrive in the Jawai wilderness after a three-hour drive from
Jodhpur, an easy two hour and forty minute flight from Bengaluru.
Our welcome party at the gates to the Relais & Châteaux property
is the opposite of low-key. There are five traditionally attired tribal
musicians, drummers loudly drumming. Five members of the Suján
equestrian team, one of whom is brandishing a sword, sit astride
magnificent Marwari horses done out in red polo wraps to match the
riders’ intricately tied turbans. We’re handed cold towels and sip rose
tea cooler as we greet property managers, Avis Rodrigues and
husband Amit Vivian Richard Gowli, with an impressive line-up of
staff, most of whom are local, from six nearby villages.
It’s an unforgettable arrival and just as memorable is the first scan
of Jawai’s post-monsoon landscape. A sea of native grasses and scrub
stretches out before us interspersed with hills and rocky outcrops
featuring the pink-hued curves and swoops of wonderfully weathered
850 million-year-old granite. It’s the perfect hangout for leopards.

Unbelievably we spot our first big cat, the impassive Fenella just five
minutes after we arrive. The powerfully muscled mother of three cubs
is sunbathing on a granite outcrop. Yusuf Ahmad Ansari, our host, vice
president at Suján and director of experiences, explains it hasn’t always
been so easy to find big cats at Jawai.
When Ansari stumbled on the land that was to evolve into Jawai
in 2013, he’d already inspected 46 other sites, often camping out of
his Jeep. The site was intensively farmed, with dense fields of
mustard, sesame and wheat. And yet he was instantly struck by the
beauty of the place. “I lost my way and found a site for Jawai,” he says.
The team’s subsequent rewilding efforts are being repaid
handsomely. A guest conservation contribution of $40 per night,
included in an all-inclusive tariff, helps. At Suján Jawai more cash
flows into land and animal conservation, and to fund local
community projects, than is spent maintaining this spectacular camp.
As a result, the property now boasts one of the highest concentration
of free-roaming leopards in the wild found anywhere in the world.
Thirty species of mammals have been recorded and 282 birds –
including flamingos, which visit the mirage-like Jawai Bandh dam.
In 2018 cameras filmed four adult leopards crossing the same
territory in less than 90 minutes – an unheard of event. ➤

Clockwise from left: one of the horses
at Suján Jawai camp; the Eden at Jawai
suite. Opposite, clockwise from far left:
a walking safari with the local Rabari
tribe; Suján Jawai’s customised jeeps;
a leopard in the Jawai wilderness.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

143

The relationship between Rabari herdsmen, villagers and leopards is
also surprisingly harmonious. It’s close to 180 years since the last leopard
kill – a young village girl Ansari says may have been tragically mistaken for
a monkey. While Jawai feels secluded, the area is dotted with hamlets and
villages, and leopards regularly wander through. They’re also seen around
the 12 “tents” that make up the accommodation.
As a misty dawn breaks, wild peacocks screech, and we rumble along
in one of Jawai’s go-anywhere purpose-built vehicles. We’re receiving
messages about leopard sightings, via Ansari’s two-way radio. But Ansari’s
listening out for other clues. Peacocks honking like geese rather than
screeching, is one indication leopards may be present. The peacocks’
honks are so loud and relentless they can simply annoy leopards away.
“You start to recognise the alarm calls of the prey species,” says Ansari.
“By interpreting them you know if there’s anything suspicious going on.”
We keep our eyes peeled, binoculars at the ready. “Leopards tend to
manifest out of nothing,” Ansari explains. “You can look at a spot for five
minutes, see nothing. Then you look back – and a big cat has manifested.”
Later on, one of Fenella’s stunning cubs manifests, camouflaged by
dappled foliage and speckled granite. She’s also just metres away from our
now stationary vehicle. We’re warned to stay quiet, keep down and ensure
limbs stay inside the ATV. I’m sitting right next to her and our eyes meet.
It takes time for my heart rate to settle as we slowly drive away.
That night we’re invited to a feast, and clamber aboard an ancient cart
hauled by two bullocks to the camp Boma, a repurposed animal
enclosure. It’s decked out with hundreds of paraffin lanterns and Ansari,
in a velvet jacket, is busy preparing a Rajasthani royal curry called Safed
Maas using a beautiful old kadai pot over an open fire.
The goat meat used (in India, most mutton is actually goat) has
marinated for hours in a mixture of ginger, garlic and Kashmiri saffron.
Sliced onion is sautéed in ghee and then the meat is added with the
“hard” spices – green cardamom, cloves and cinnamon.
It’s just one dish in a delicious thali tasting plate, which also features ker
sangri, a spicy stir-fry of caper-like berries and bean-like pods zinged up with
a sweet-sour kachari powder made from a dried wild melon. When I go to
bed I dream of Rajputs, royal curries and leopards with light green eyes.

A Jawai leopard in the wild.
Clockwise from left: dining
at camp; members of the
Rabari; on a local
community visit
near Suján.

144

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

BENGALURU, THE GATEWAY TO INDIA
Bengaluru is India’s third largest city, which has seen the
population balloon from 5.5 million in 2000 to more than
13 million in 2022. Generations before Bengaluru became
famous as an IT hub, it was renowned as India’s Garden City.
The capital’s almost 100 hectare Lalbagh Botanical Garden is
where botanists brought scores of exotic trees to adjust to life
in India. For travellers too, it’s the perfect place to acclimatise.
We snag lunch at the famous 98-year-old Mavalli Tiffin
Rooms (MTR). A ridiculously tasty, constantly refilled thali,
dotted with delicious curries as well as dosa, roti and papads,
is simply called “meals.” It’s the most expensive option at 304
rupees (around $6) – a glimpse into old Bengaluru.
In stark contrast to MTR, one of Bengaluru’s newest
additions is MAP, the Museum of Art and Photography, due to
open this month. Abhishek Poddar, MAP’s founder-patron is
a businessman and collector who’s been amassing works since
he was in school. He hopes MAP will inject excitement into
museum going, by connecting pop culture with more classic
traditions. “We have some of the most crowded cities in the
world,” says Poddar. “And some of the emptiest museums.”

Clockwise from above:
a Rajput Sikh guard at
Mehrangarh Fort in
Jodhpur; Toorji’s Step Well.

JODHPUR, THE BLUE CITY
It’s when I disembark in Rajasthan and ride in an auto
rickshaw, to navigate the tight alleys of Jodhpur old town,
I start to feel I’ve really arrived.
Raas Jodhpur is an upscale oasis, in the middle of the old
town. This restored haveli mansion with airy Baradari pavilion
has some of the tastiest dishes of the trip, including Rajasthani
signature dish Laal Maas and the region’s millet flatbread.
The property blends new and old, serving jaw-dropping views
of the dramatic Mehrangarh Fort. It’s just steps away from Step
Well Square and Toorji’s Step Well, an intricate marvel that used
to feed into the city’s water system and now acts as a spot for
locals to gather and cool off. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

145

Getting
there
Qantas flies direct
to Bengaluru in the
south of India and to
Delhi in the north.
A codeshare partnership
with IndiGo, means
travellers can connect
to 11 destinations from
Bengaluru, including
Jodhpur and Jaipur.
Banyan Tours is a luxury
India travel company,
which specialises in the
planning and operating
of bespoke and creative
India journeys.
banyantours.com

Clockwise from
left: the pool at
Raas Jodhpur;
the intricate
architecture at
City Palace in
Jaipur; a Sadhu
man in
traditional
orange robes.

The Banyan Tours guide for Rajasthan is Sameer
Singh, who takes us through Jodhpur’s ancient Sardar
Market. It’s a colourful and chaotic experience, peering
into dusty booths, stalls piled with everything from exotic
fruits to sari fabrics, and an abundance of spices.
A sunset tour of Mehrangarh Fort provides insider
access, just as visitors leave. Inside, there are intricately
decorated palaces – plural – including the Pearl Palace,
the Flower Palace and the Mirror Palace, where the lights
are dimmed and candles lit, creating an otherworldly feel
as the sinking sun streams through stained glass windows.
Mehrangarh is one of India’s best preserved forts,
attracting a million visitors a year. Here, we’re high above
the maze of lanes that make up Jodhpur, so it’s a chance
to survey the Blue City.
There are as many hues of blue as there are theories
about why its buildings are painted this colour. Some say
it’s to keep houses cool and to deter mosquitoes and
termites. Others think it’s how high caste Hindu Brahmins
set themselves apart. Whatever the reason, it’s a vibrant
place to explore as we make our way back to the hotel.
146

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

JAIPUR, THE PINK CITY
On the transfer to Udaipur airport I spy an elephant,
groups of langur monkeys and a massive red statue of Shiva
rising 112 metres above Nathdwara. These sights pale next to
the tuberose-scented splendour of Rajmahal Palace Raas
Jaipur, our final hotel, a revamped palace with a 1957
Thunderbird, Jaipur’s first car, permanently parked out front.
Inside it’s a riot of marble, the storied walls sporting
more than 40 custom wallpapers. Past guests here include
Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana and the Kennedys.
That evening we decamp to yet another royal hotel – the
Narain Niwas Palace – to drink Negronis at Bar Palladio.
At the Cloud Palace we drink chai masala with women
carving out financial independence through craft skills
taught by the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation.
Our trip ends with a sunrise visit to Jaipur’s grittily
beautiful flower market. Here I marvel at the myriad
varieties of marigolds, many spilling onto wet ground
as the bitter aroma sears into my brain. It’s another
India experience I know will feed my dreams. 

More info
Rajmahal Palace Raas Jaipur raashotels.com/rajmahal
Raas Jodhpur raashotels.com/jodhpur
Suján Jawai Luxury Safari Camp thesujanlife.com
ITC Gardenia, Bengaluru itchotels.com

CHRISTMAS GIFTING
MADE EASY
2.
3.

5.

4.

1.

1. Green Citrus Press Tool, $69.95. 2. Altina Mixed Bottles (6 Pack), $114.95. 3. Australian Twin Vinegar Set, $59.95.
4. Finger Lime Gin, $150. 5. Gin Glass $79.95.

SCAN TO SHOP

A CHEF’S GUIDE TO...

Vienna, Austria
Venture deep into the heart of a gourmand’s
European winter wonderland with chef
KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU as your guide.

T

he festive season and Vienna go together like winter and mulled wine.
Come December, the city reaches peak sparkle with Christmas markets at
Maria-Theresien-Platz, Rathausplatz, and on Freyung being the undeniable
main attraction. But the Gourmet Traveller reader can not be sustained on
premium-quality tidings alone. Enter chef Konstantin Filippou, to direct us to the
best places to eat and drink when we’re not soaking up merriment. The son of
a Greek father and a Syrian mother, Filippou was both exposed to and inspired by
two culinary cultures during his time growing up in Austria. It’s this multicultural
upbringing, together with experience in kitchens such as Restaurant Steirereck in
Vienna and Arzak in Spain, that has helped him create one of the country’s most
exciting restaurants, two-Michelin-starred Konstantin Filippou restaurant, as well
as bistro and wine bar, O boufés.

Clockwise from left:
Vienna’s Christmas markets
near City Hall; Wegen
Reichtum Geschlossen
cocktail at Bruder; Brandade
caviar at O boufés.

A chef ’s guide
Mast
Weinbistro
Kiang Dine
and Wine

Skopik & Lohn

PRATER
Tür 7

O boufés
RATHAUS Scharzes
Kameel,

V IE NNA

Goldfisch
Pastamara
Bruder

KARLSKIRCHE
Gasthaus Wolf

PHOTOGRAPHY ADOBE STOCK (CHRISTMAS MARKETS), MANUEL HARING (BRUDER) & GERHARD WASSERBAUER (O BOUFÉS).

Tafelspitz
Restaurant

S M AL L P LAT E S A N D
N AT U RA L W I N E
If I want to relax with my friends and
enjoy some good food and wine,
I prefer small bistro-like places. Almost
four years ago we opened the first fully
dedicated natural wine bar in Austria,
O boufés. This is like our living room
where we hang out with friends. When
I am in the mood for fish, it’s Goldfisch;
run by great people and off the beaten
track in Vienna’s 8th district. They also
serve nice natural wines.

CLASSIC VIENNESE
If close friends were visiting from out of
town, I’d take them to Scharzes Kameel,
a 400-year-old institution where, besides
tourists of course, many locals love to
go. You can have your breakfast there,
your open-faced sandwich – which they
are famous for – as a snack, your perfect
Viennese lunch or dinner, and a great
apéro. They also have a huge outdoor
space. See and be seen.

Clockwise from left: Kürbis
at Heunisch & Erben; the
bar at Heunisch & Erben;
O boufés’ façade.

LOCAL HAUNTS
TASTE O F H O ME
If I’ve been away travelling, the first thing
I want to eat when I get back to Vienna
is Tafelspitz – a typical Viennese dish
of boiled veal in broth with vegetables.
I usually eat it at Plachutta. I also love
the wiener schnitzel at Skopik & Lohn;
a great brasserie-style restaurant with
charming service. Feels like home.

Kiang Wine & Dine has an absolute
neighbourhood feel with great Asian
food. Other popular local restaurants
like Mochi (Asian Fusion) and Beaulieu
(French) are places you revisit once you
have found them. Always good, always
packed. Mast Weinbistro and Heunisch
& Erben are also great stops. Both these
places serve small plates and great
wines in a super relaxed atmosphere.

TRY IT AT LEAST ONCE
Vienna still has a big offal culture. You
get it for example at Gasthaus Wolf and
Gasthaus Stern; and should definitely try
it once when you are in town, especially
if you’re interested in experiencing the
food culture here.

NOT-SO-CLASSIC VIENNESE
Bruder is a new and really interesting
place serving creative food and cocktail
pairings. It’s an exciting addition to the
dining scene. Pastamara, an Italian
restaurant at the Ritz Hotel is interesting
as an unusually successful opening of
a hotel restaurant-bar. The Viennese
tend not to like to frequent hotel
restaurants, so it’s definitely unexpected.
It’s great for small bites and apéro.

T HE CI TY ’ S B E ST BAR S
The Viennese bar scene is booming.
Some great places to visit after dinner
are Robertos, Loos American Bar and
Kleinod. Tür7 is the speakeasy bar every
city needs. You need to ring a very
discrete doorbell to get in or you can call
before and the super-charming owner
Geri will fix your reservation. 

As told to Jessica Rigg for
The Local Tongue. For more
chef’s guides from around the
world, see thelocaltongue.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

149

Clockwise from
left: baguettes
at a typical
boulangerie;
footpath dining
at Le Regent
Cafe; tomato,
burrata and basil
at L’Observatoire
du Gabriel;
a rooftop view
of Bordeaux.
Opposite: freshly
baked canelés;
cycling in the
vines.

A fine
Bordeaux
France’s wine capital is reaching a new era of
maturity. PAUL EWART reveals why there’s
much more to Bordeaux than a good drop.

WINE WANDERING
Regarded as the bedrock of the fine wine market
and a benchmark for winemakers around the
world, in Bordeaux the grape is god. And given its
status as the largest fine wine area on earth and
one of the oldest, there’s hyperbole and history in
spades. A vast region with some 65 appellations,
the first cabernet sauvignon and merlot vines
originated in Bordeaux and now more than 85 per
cent of Bordeaux wines are red wines made with
merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Indeed, the red
Bordeaux blend is one of the most copied in
the world.
Wet your whistle and ease yourself into the
– admittedly overwhelming – array of wine options
at Bar à Vin. One of the city’s wine institutions,
this gorgeous bar is located in the historic
residence of the Bordeaux Wine Council and is
a one-stop-shop for visitors to brush up on their
Bordeaux varieties – it also happens to be the
most affordable.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (CANELÉS), CLARA TUMA & @ODIEUXBOBY (DISH)

O

ur handsome waiter exclaims “Et voila! as he
presents me with a platter of local favourites.
Wafts of fragrance permeate my nostrils and
I audibly “mmm.”
While I’m eager to eat, I also want to savour the
moment. Leaning back in my chair, the balmy afternoon
heat soaking into my bones, I take in my surroundings.
Tucked down a tiny laneway, I seem to be the only
foreigner sitting in this tiny, traditional brasserie. French
families chatter and laugh either side of me, church bells
toll in the distance, and the heavenly sound of wine corks
popping – followed by the satisfying “glug glug” and the
clink of glass against glass – fills my ears.
There are few people who haven’t heard of Bordeaux.
In fact, its mere mention is enough to make you reach for
a wine glass and a cheese platter. However, it turns out
there’s much more to France’s sixth largest city than
a good drop.
In the last decade Bordeaux has gone through
a hefty makeover to become one of the most beautiful
and interesting destinations in the continent. With its
362 historic monuments (second only to Paris), an
extraordinary gastronomic scene, and a vibrant city life,
it is unsurprising that this beautiful town was named
Europe’s “best destination” in 2015.
Paris may get most of the limelight (and the bulk of
the tourist traffic) but France’s wine capital has its own
appeal. For hungry and thirsty travellers looking to
break new ground before word gets out, Bordeaux is
a discerning choice.

EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Whether you’re eating in a simple café, or dining
out on white linen tablecloths and a Michelin
menu, given the amazing local produce, being well
fed is a virtual guarantee here.
If you want to experience the flavour of the
region in one day, then the Marché des Capucins
is the perfect sampling board. As the largest market
in town, Capucins justifiably carries its “belly of
Bordeaux” moniker.
The focus here is great produce – and lots of it.
However, it differs from many other French
markets in that it’s a place for much more than just
buying groceries. Local Bordelais come here for
their morning coffee and for long weekend lunches
with friends over a bottle of wine. It’s this local
custom that my friend and I use as a “full stop” to
our Bordeaux trip on our last day. It’s the ideal
place to pause and reflect – glass of wine in hand,
naturally – on the fact that, while a day’s eating
and drinking in Bordeaux is great, a full week
would be even better. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

151

S TAY

A suite at Villas
Foch. Below right:
Château LafauriePeyraguey’s
restaurant.

P L AY
La Cité du Vin

First thing’s first, you can’t begin your wine tasting
here without getting a grounding in both the
history of wine in general, and Bordeaux’s role
in its development.
The only cultural centre in the world dedicated
to the heritage and production of wine, La Cité du
Vin offers a spectacular journey throughout global
cultures and civilisations, tracing humankind’s
8000-year-long love affair with the vine. At 10
floors high and nearly 13,000 square metres, a visit
here can easily last a few hours. laciteduvin.com
Bassins des Lumières
A contemporary art “gallery” that is guaranteed to
leave even confirmed philistines awestruck, Bassins
des Lumières is an absolute must-visit for arty and
non-arty folk alike.
Housed inside a World War II German-built
submarine bunker, the digital arts centre is the
largest fixed multimedia installation in the world.
bassins-lumieres.com

152

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey
For wine enthusiasts a side trip to experience the
sweeter side of the region is an itinerary essential.
Located 40 kilometres southeast of the city in the
Graves section of Bordeaux, Sauternes is a French
sweet wine made from the area’s rare white grapes.
And to experience this sticky drop, there’s no
better place than lauded winery and luxury hotel,
Lafaurie-Peyraguey.
Set among the actual vines, the honey-coloured
chateau – which dates partly back to the 13th
century – has rooms decked out in iconic
Lalique pieces. Crystal dazzles from every surface,
from the chairs you sit in, to the tableware you
use at breakfast.
For a gourmet experience that’ll create
memories to last a lifetime, book a table at the
in-house eatery – one of the region’s Michelinstarred restaurants. chateau-lafaurie-peyraguey.com

PHOTOGRAPHY DEEPIX.COM (CHATEAU) & DAVID DUCHON DORIS ( VILLAS FOCH).

Villas Foch
The newest – and best – boutique hotel in the city,
Villas Foch has become the check-in for discerning
visitors to Bordeaux. Positioned opposite the river
and in the heart of the old town, the sprawling
classical building is a convenient and picturesque
base for exploring the city.
Pairing contemporary architectural swagger and
design with antique appeal, the five-star property
comprises 20 rooms with eight indulgent suites.
In-room comforts include a comprehensive pillow
menu and there’s a small, yet perfectly formed,
breakfast selection, inclusive in the room rate.
After a day full of discovery, you can recharge
your batteries in the vaulted stone 19th-century
cellar-turned-wellness centre, which houses
a gorgeous swimming and hydrotherapy pool and
traditional wood sauna. While the elegant Le
Ferdinand bar is perfectly poised for a post-dinner
nightcap. villasfoch.fr

From left: sardines marinated
in garlic butter; and chef
Alexandre Baumard of
L’Observatoire du Gabriel.

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E AT
Le 7 Restaurant
The perfect pairing to any visit to the La Cité du
Vin, Le 7 sits atop the museum on the seventh
floor. Providing a visual and edible feast in one,
guests can enjoy panoramic views from 30 metres
up as they devour a tasty menu of dishes made
using locally sourced seasonal products. There’s
an ever-changing wine list on a scale that befits its
museum location: more than 500 wines from
more than 50 wine-producing countries.
le7restaurant.fr
L’Observatoire du Gabriel
When it comes to a taste sensation in a city
packed to the rafters with eateries, you can’t
rival the inventive and refined cuisine of
Michelin-starred chef, Alexandre Baumard,
and his gastronomic restaurant, L’Observatoire
du Gabriel. Situated on an upper level of the Place
de la Bourse, various menus are available, but if
you want to go all-out then the five-stage Saturn
menu is a good call. Think sea urchins with foie
gras cream, langoustines from Brittany, Aquitaine
caviar, and gourmet cheeses hand-selected from
an actual cheese room. bordeaux-gabriel.fr ➤

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beverage experience to match.
As the newest ship to join the Oceania Cruises
fleet in 2023, Vista will also debut an elevated,
innovative bar program. Accompanying the ship’s
12 world-class culinary venues – four of which are
brand new and exclusive to Vista – are thematically
matched tipples designed to elevate the dining
experience.
At new addition Ember, inventive American
culinary creations are served with time-honoured
classics like ryes, bourbons and themed apertifs
such as California Dreaming. New concept
restaurant, Aquamar Kitchen’s wellness-focused
cuisine pairs with naturally sourced spirits, plus
low- and no-alcohol “wines” from Pierre Zero and
zero-proof cocktails. Pan-Asian venue Red Ginger
heroes Asian flavours such as turmeric and lychee
in its cocktails, as well as a variety of sake styles.
The cocktail crafting process ship-wide boasts
naturally sourced ingredients and a hands-on touch
by Corporate Beverage Manager Daniella Oancea,
who “worked with the culinary team on the creation
of homemade syrups and reductions”.
Vista also debuts exquisite new pairing
experiences such as the Moet & Chandon
Champagne Experience, an inspired three-course
pairing featuring rare vintages, or the Connoisseur
Wine Pairing Lunches, with two Mediterranean
influenced epicurean journeys to choose from.
“On Vista, having a drink will be an
experience unto itself,” says Daniella, “from
the beauty of watching a skilled bartender
smoke an Old Fashioned, to the tableside
preparation of an Espresso Martini.

Le Cromagnon
In the male-dominated world of fine dining, the city’s
only centrally based female chef – Moldovan-born
Oxana Cretu – is quickly making a name for herself.
Having studied under celebrity chef, Alain Ducasse,
the passionate foodie launched her own eatery four
years ago in the heart of the city. Known for combining
unique flavours from cultures across the globe, her
thoughtful, innovative, delicious – and surprisingly,
affordable – dishes are consistently wow-worthy. Set to
become one of the country’s better-known chefs, book
a table here soon before the word gets out.
lecromagnon.fr
Zéphirine
An open kitchen, friendly staff, and a cosy, casual vibe
– the small family-owned Zéphirine is a classic Gallic
bistro that serves traditional food with a twist.
Each dish bears a distinctive nod to the family
(including favourite recipes) and there’s a robust wine
list, alongside a resident starred pastry chef, whose
freshly baked butter-filled creations will require a will of
steel to resist. Don’t forget to check out the front of
house gourmet counter for tasty takeaway treats.
zephirine.fr

La Brasserie Bordelaise
Located in the Saint-Pierre district in the heart
of the historic town centre, the bustling Brasserie
Bordelaise is a real Bordeaux institution.
A favourite for honest brasserie food with
a focus on meat, the popular lunch and dinner
venue specialises in favourites paired with a bottle
of big, bold Bordeaux from the cavernous wine cellar
below the restaurant. Simple, unpretentious and
generous portions – what’s not to love?
brasserie-bordelaise.fr 

For more details on Bordeaux and nearby regions,
see visiter-bordeaux.com
154

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Getting there

Most major airlines operate
daily connecting flights to
Paris from Australia’s main
centres.
From Paris you can travel
to Bordeaux quickly and
easily on a high-speed
train via Rail Europe.
raileurope.com

Clockwise from
top: a café-lined
street in
Bordeaux;
a lobster and
pea dish at Le
Cromagnon;
a bartender
adds a finishing
touch at Le
Cromagnon.

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (STREET) & PASCAL LATTES (LE CROMAGNON).

Au Bistrot
Exuding elegance, the classic brasseries of Bordeaux
should be on every traveller’s must-visit list. And one
of the best is Au Bistro. Specialising in traditional
French, regional fare, the eatery’s location right next
to the busy Capucins market takes advantage of the
array of fresh produce on offer mere steps away.
Make like a local and pull up a seat at the long zinc
counter to watch chef Jacques In’On work his magic.
aubistrot.fr

CHECKING IN

Ace Hotel Sydney
We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where
to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits Sydney’s Surry Hills.

S y d n e y,
NSW

S T A Y

Quick
look

Subliminally but consistantly, across a million little micro messages, Ace Hotel Sydney wants to tell you
it’s cool. And it is, undeniably. Sydney regulars have seen some of these tricks before: the in-room
record player at the Old Clare, the freebie snacks at the Ovolo, Paramount’s colour-blocked design
sensibility. But Ace Hotel’s Sydney arrival marks a return to the source for anti-corporate hotel culture.
And if some of the signature quirks feel familiar it might be because Ace Hotel has influenced hoteliers
ever since its Los Angeles debut in 1999. In the rooms, there’s sheet music in the place of hotel
stationary if you get inspired and “free rubbers” if another type of inspiration strikes. The people and
the branded material all speak to you human to human. These touches might feel overly familiar to
some but if you are the kind of person who lands in Surry Hills by design, and not just in search of
a good room rate, you’ll probably be down with the attitude. With 257 guest rooms (including suites),
Ace Hotel Sydney is the first of the brand’s hotels to land in Australia and it has brought on board
a stellar line-up of zeitgeist-y collaborators. Flack Studio did the design in a symphony of photogenic
moments. The Lobby Bar’s wine list is curated by Mike Bennie of P&V Merchants and new to the
rooftop is Mitch Orr’s restaurant and bar Kiln (see page 44). acehotel.com

Where
47-53 Wentworth Ave,
Sydney, NSW
Facilities
Prices start from $322
per night.
Gym Yes
Hotel/rooftop bar Yes
Restaurants Yes
Room service Yes
Pet-friendly Yes
Free Wifi Yes

E X P L O R E

Checking in

If you’re heading into 2023 with a resolution to support the arts,
Sydney Festival is a big and gloriously edifying headstart.
From January 5 to 29, Sydney’s summer of art will include
a holographic hit of colour with Frida Kahlo: The Life of an Icon,
cocktails and Japanese magicians at Maho Magic Bar and
16 nights of live music at retro ’70s bar, The Weary Traveller. The
food offering alone is enough to block out much of January
thanks to exclusive $55 festival menus at the likes of Lucky
Kwong and Londres 126. sydneyfestival.org.au

Clockwise from above: the pink cake at Jane; the
acrobats of Sydney Festival’s Afrique en Cirque;
OpenAir cinema views; the chic interiors of a Medium
Plus room. Opposite: inside the Ace Hotel Sydney.

Another summer in Sydney box to tick is the Westpac OpenAir Cinema
on the Fleet Steps of Mrs Macquarie’s Point from January 8 to February
21. We’d say pack a picnic except that chef Mike McEnearney, of CBD
diner Kitchen by Mike and Carriageworks Farmers Market creative
director, is headlining the food venues. westpacopenair.com.au

E A T

WORDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (JANE), ANSON SMART (ACE HOTEL),
CAROLINE McCREDIE/DESTINATION NSW (OPENAIR).

E X P E R I E N C E

Breakfast

Lunch

Dinner

In its morning mode, Loam, on Ace
Hotel’s ground floor hits all the
hallmarks of Surry Hills’ surrounding
cafés you’d consider lining up for.
Except (to the delight of jet-lagged
and hungover travellers) you can
book a table. Loam gets its name
from its sister café in Downtown
LA and shares the SoCal spirit of
light and bright plant-forward food.
Plus Mecca Coffee and fresh juices.

Chances are, if you’ve booked
into Ace Hotel, its proximity to
A.P Bakery might have played
a part in your decision-making.
On a clear day it’s not easy to get
a seat at this rooftop haven of
baked delights but rest assured,
it’s worth the wait. Alternatively,
Nomad, Pellegrino 2000 and
The Rover are all within strolling
distance and serve Saturday lunch.

Mitch Orr’s umami-fuelled menu at Kiln
makes a strong play for top spot on any
Sydney dining card but it’s not without
competition. Just up the road, Lennox
Hastie’s new pintxos bar Gildas is
turning heads, while his firstborn
Firedoor continues to be one of the
hottest bookings in town. Those
prepared to wander further into Surry
Hills should stop by Jane on Bourke St,
the little sister to Tristan Rosier’s Arthur.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

157

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1

Harvey Norman Ensure your precious
drops stay safe and sound with the Vintec
Single Zone Wine Cabinet, with 35-bottle
capacity, an externally housed compressor,
rubber shock absorbers and vibrationabsorbing shelving. harveynorman.com.au

4

Mon Verre Our Margeaux wine glasses
are defined by a sleek aesthetic. Featuring
a wide bowl and unique curved rim, this
glass highlights the aromatic richness of
your favourite wines. RRP from $119.99,
monverre.com.au

7

Happy Happy Foods Almond Daddy is the
latest creation to join Happy Happy Foods’
range of nutritional, environmentally happy
plant-based products. Crafted for coffee, it
delivers what an almond latte should taste
like. eatdrinkhappyhappy.com

2

Executive Retreats is the gateway to
Tropical North Queensland’s most idyllic
holiday homes, dotted along the coast
and throughout the rainforest to provide
unforgettable escapes in nature. From
$600/night, executiveretreats.com.au

5

Hardtofind Built to last, the seamless,
stainless steel Aarke Carbonator 3 is
designed from inside out to be the
slimmest, most compact sparkling water
maker – a perfect fit to suit your interiors.
RRP from $329, hardtofind.com.au/GT

8

Winnings Appliances Re-imagine home
entertaining with an end-to-end culinary
system from The Galley. The innovative,
dual-tier design transforms from preparation
station to serving or drink station with
ease. RRP from $3,881, winnings.com.au

3

Hardtofind Made of cast iron, this griddle
evenly distributes heat from the bottom
through the sidewalls – perfect for searing,
sauteing, broiling, frying or grilling. SOGA
Square Ribbed Cast Iron Frying Pan RRP
$97.50, hardtofind.com.au/GT

6

Weber The all new Weber Genesis range
is packed with everything you’d expect,
plus so much more. The Weber Genesis
delivers a full backyard culinary
experience so you can entertain without
limits. RRP from $1799, weber.com/AU

9

Oceania Cruises’ 2024–2025 Tropics
and Exotics Collection comprises over
150 itineraries, including 70 immersive
Grand Voyages featuring re-inspired ships,
re-imagined menus and curated travel
experiences. Visit oceaniacruises.com

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL & HOME

Pack free walking in Italy
With Italy opening up again, it’s time to get your boots on and hit the trails
exploring some Italy’s most magical destinations such as the mountains
of central Sicily, the Gargano Peninsula in northern Puglia, hills and
villages of Chianti, the vineyards of Alba and, of course, the wonderful
Amalfi Coast. The recent, pandemic induced, downtime has given us time
to review all twenty of our self-guided itineraries, as well as develop our
exclusive Hidden Italy walking app. For full details of our fully-supported,
pack-free walks go to our our website (details below).

ESCAPE TO THE TROPICS

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(ȒɖǕǼƏɀِ ȒȒǸɯǣɎǝɖɀɎȒƳƏɵِ¨ƏȸƏƳǣɀƺƏɯƏǣɎɀِ

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³ƬƏȇɎǝǣɀƬȒƳƺ

www.hiddenitaly.com.au
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Bay Bookcase by Julian Chichester

Susanne Kasler for Visual Comfort

Est Ouest mirror by Christopher Guy

Luxury Hand-crafted Furniture, Lighting and Accessories by renowned International brands available at
See the In-stock and Sale sections on our website for products available for immediate delivery

80 O’Riordan Street, Alexandria • 02 9667 4415
E: sales@laurakincade.com

www.laurakincade.com
TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL, FOOD & ART

Italian Gardens Tour
Discover the most beautiful
gardens in Italy.

DISTINCTIVELY
FLAVOURED

PREMIUM QUALITY
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VINEGARS, SALTS
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Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

TRAVEL, FOOD & FASHION
Light & fluffy

Pancakes
Just add
toppings!

Find recipe ideas at
marcels.com.au

Immerse yourself in the art of whisky making from
barley to barrel with tours and experiences.
Discover our heritage.
Taste our award winning Tasmanian single malt whiskies.
Dine in our onsite restaurant. Open 7 days, 10am - 4pm.

Available at most leading
independent stores including Harris
Farm Markets, Ritchies, IGA and
Drakes Supermarkets.

bringing greece home

visit us online @
thegreekprovidore.com.au
We ship Australia wide

Stay

6 Mill Lane, Oatlands, Tasmania, 7120 callingtonmilldistillery.com
M +61 482 509 019 E info@callingtonmilldistillery.com.au

IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT
AND UNIQUE STYLE

02 5317 8200 • info@byngstreethotel.com.au
62 Byng Street Orange NSW

W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U

TO ADVERTISE 0405 745 129 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

Celebrate in style

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

Summer decorating, breezy fashion,
elevated luggage, our beauty wish list,
and GT-approved candles.

Home

2

1

3

4

EFFORTLESS ALFRESCO
Take the party outside with furniture and
décor in nature’s most enduring palette:
timber, rattan and linen.

5

6

PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART.

7

9
8

1 Cora lantern, $99.95, Freedom. 2 Soho Home Culross teak seasoning bowl and spoon, $107, Net-A-Porter. 3 Mrs. Alice rattan ice bucket and tongs,
$186, Net-A-Porter. 4 Worn Store Arc lounger, $1490, Worn Store. 5 Everdure Hayman 6-burner barbecue, $1599, Harvey Norman. 6 Marloe Marloe
Jagger candlestick holders, $460 for two, Net-A-Porter. 7 Saguaro cactus potted, $250, Elme Living. 8 Sika Design Carlo bar trolley, from $1695, Domo.
9 Coco Republic Tuci outdoor sofa, $4195, Coco Republic. ABOVE Outdoor entertaining area designed by Wyer & Co.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

163

3

2

1

4

5

6
14

7

13

8
11

12
10
9

1 Ferm Living Doodle ornaments, $54 for two, Smallable. 2 AYTM Unum candle holder, $55, Space Furniture. 3 Marina Dome ceiling pendant light, $730,
GlobeWest. 4 Lee Broom half cut Champagne coupe, $165, Space Furniture. 5 Kartell Bookworm medium shelf in Gold, $1730, Space Furniture.
6 Gebruder Thonet Vienna Mos bookcase, $8970, Space Furniture. 7 Freedom Franham cushion, $69.95, Freedom. 8 Sarah Ellison Muse three-seater
sofa, $3999, Sarah Ellison. 9 Poliform Ube stool, $2925, Poliform. 10 Corsica Float side table, $910, GlobeWest. 11 Totem ceramic candle holder, $19.95,
Gigi & Tom. 12 Sarah Ellison Paloma coffee table, $1499, Sarah Ellison. 13 Marta Bonilla Dona lamp, $1950, Tigmi Trading. 14 Rocky Jute rug in Banana,
$4750, Tigmi Trading. OPPOSITE PAGE Festive living room styled by Natalie Johnson.
164

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Home

NATURAL WONDER

OM

E IN

N
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID WHEELER.

S

A
PIR TIO

H

Lean into the warm weather and long days this festive
season by setting a light and understated mood.

Style
1

2

Inspired
by

15

Cap Rocat,
Bay of Palma

3
14

13

12

4

Club Med

11

Keep cool this summer in breezy pieces
in cobalt, emerald and a touch of spice.

5

10
6

8

9

7

1 Nino hat, $129, Arms of Eve. 2 Esme bias
dress, $520, Sir the Label. 3 Line Through
jumpsuit in Dusty Blue, $270, Third Form.
4 Jeanne bandeau top ginger rib, $99, and
Justine high waisted bottom ginger rib, $99,
Auguste the Label. 5 Fleet sail stitch
espadrilles in Midnight Navy, $395, Orlebar
Brown. 6 Blaise bumbag in Cream, $95,
Arms of Eve. 7 Lova earrings in Olive, $45,
Elk. 8 Zelie flow shorts, $415, Kate Ford.
9 Ferragamo Elina 105mm nappa leather
sandals, $1925, Farfetch. 10 Bind detail
racer in Burnt Red, $39.95, Witchery.
11 Wetherlam beltloop matchstick relaxed fit
stretch-cotton shorts, $445, Orlebar Brown.
12 Anneli light linen pant, $199, Elk.
13 Jacquemus Le Chiquito mini bag, $1287,
Farfetch. 14 Armelle skirt print, $299,
Morrison. 15 Amour triple gold necklace,
$99, Arms of Eve.

PHOTOGRAPHY STUART PEARCE (CAP ROCAT). MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

11

Cabin crew

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.
MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

Pack light with one of these luxury
carry-ons for the perfect getaway.

Clockwise from left: Meisterstück Selection duffle, $3060, Montblanc. Personal polycarbonate cross-body bag in Azure Blue,
$1710, Rimowa. Carry On in Sand, $325, July. Essential Sleeve Cabin bag in Matte Blue, $1290, Rimowa. Mini Horizontal Cabas
in triomphe canvas and calfskin tan, $3300, Celine. Dior Lingot 50 bag in Beige and Black Dior Oblique Jacquard, $4800, Dior.
Brown FF fabric trolley, $4650, Fendi. Le Monogramme 48H duffle in monogram canvas and vegetable tanned leather, $2950,
Saint Laurent. Tod’s Di bag in brown leather medium, $4200, Tod’s.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

167

Beauty

3

H O L I DAY

2

GIFTING

1

4

4

5

9

8

6

1 Skincare samplers from a cult beauty brand. Eye-do and Glam Squad gift set, $218, and Mini Cult Faves gift set, $88, both Liberty Belle. 2 A limited edition
eyeshadow quad for the woman who has almost everything. Les 4 Ombres in 937 Ombres de Lune, $108, Chanel. 3 Beauty-editor approved. Oribe Côte
d’Azur Hand Care Set (includes Hand Crème, opposite), $99, Rogue Beauty. 4 Universally flattering and never to be regifted. Diorskin Rouge Blush in 028
Actrice, $82, Dior. 5 A statement centrepiece. Flow resin cake stand, $189, Saardé. 6 Luxe lips. Rouge Allure L’Extrait in 872, $81, Chanel. 7 For glowing summer
cheekbones. Westman Atelier Lit Up Highlight Stick in Brûlée, $72, Mecca. 8 A guilty pleasure. Burberry Beauty Kisses Satin Limited Edition Lipstick, $60. 9 A
youth-boosting power duo. Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge set, $615, Sisley Paris.
168

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY.
STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

7

T

LI

H

U
L
S
E
T

ST

When it comes to beauty, it’s just
as good to give as to receive. Mark
this page for stylish stocking
stuffers, or as a hint to Santa.

10

12

11

13
14

f
16
20
17

19

15
18

10 Part scent, part sculpture. Carolina Herrera Bad Boy Gold Fantasy EDT $162, David Jones. 11 Perfect for party looks. Burberry Beauty Limited Edition eye
palette, $150. 12 For festive fingers. Le Top Coat Shimmering Amber Top Coat in 347 Étoilé, $43, Chanel. 13 A luxurious elixir. N°1 De Chanel Revitalizing
Serum, $220, Chanel. 14 Rihanna-issued and refillable. Fenty Beauty Icon Refill Lipstick Case, $19, and Lipstick Refill, $34, Sephora. 15 Vitamin C skin
booster. Sunday Riley Morning Buzz gift pack (includes C.E.O. Brightening Serum, not shown), $148, Mecca. 16 Divine order for the bathroom. Flow resin
bathroom caddy, $79, Saardé. 17 A radiant foundation worthy of display. Gucci Beauty Limited Edition Cushion De Beauté, $109, Gucci. 18 Glittery lips are
back. Gucci Beauty Limited Edition Rouge à Lèvres Lunaison Lipstick, $68, Gucci. 19 Luxury in a jar. Dior Prestige La Crème Texture Essentielle, $550, David
Jones. 20 Hand cream must-have. Oribe Côte d’Azur Hand Care Set (includes Hand Wash, opposite), $99, Rogue Beauty.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

169

Objects of desire

Burn bright

Clockwise from top right: Épices D’or candle, $460, Dior. Siberian Pine & Candied Ginger candle, $99, and Siberian Pine & Smoked Wood candle,
$99, Carrière Frères. Fir Christmas Tree candle, $499, and Gabriel Gourmand Chimney Fire candle, $989, Trudon. Tresor Fleuri candle pot, $175,
Fairfax & Roberts. Birmanie Oud candle, $950, Creed. Tambour Noir, $160, Celine. Eclipse 400gm luxury candle, $59.95, Apsley and Company.
Beige Multicolor Jardin d’Hiver Large Morning Bird candle, $500 for two, Dior. Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain Candle, $320, Mecca.
170

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD. MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

Give the gift of festive glow with one
of these luxury scented candles.

NEW LUXURY
CANDLES

MADE WITH ESSENTIAL OILS, SOY & COCONUT WAX
White Lily & Bamboo

Wood Sage & Sea Salt

A refreshing balance of lily flowers with
the earthy notes of bamboo.

Countryside sage delicately combined with
the freshness of a coastal sea salt breeze.

Available to buy at

com.au including free postage

Elegance is an attitude
Jennifer Lawrence

shop online www.longines.com

THE LONGINES
MASTER COLLECTION