MARCH 2024

PIERRE KOFFMANN

SHINJI KANESAKA HRISHIKESH DESAI REY LOPEZ
MA R K M CCA B E ROBERTA HALL MCCARRON GE ORGE H E RSE Y

MONDAY
10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee Morning
with a Difference”
11.00 – 11.45
Tom Shepherd, Chef Patron,
1 Michelin starred Upstairs
Restaurant, Lichfield - Live
Cooking Demo
11.45 – 12.15
Adam Smith, 1 Michelin starred
Woven, Coworth Park chats
about his Great British Menu
journey
12.15 – 13.00
Adam Handling MBE, 1 Michelin
Starred Frog, Covent Garden
joined by Gastronomixs for 4
Hands Cooking Demo
13.00 – 13.30
Mark Sargeant, The Restaurant
MS, Folkestone and David
Mulcahy chat all things
competing
13.30 – 14.15
Jennifer Collins and Sally Abè
from The Pem Live Cooking
Demo
14.15 – 14.45
Ahead of their 40th anniversary.
Martin Carabott 2018 Roux
Scholar and Head Chef, 1
Michelin Hide Restaurant on
how the Roux Scholarship
changed his life

HRC 25 - 27 March, London ExCel

14.45 – 15.30
Jeremy Besson cooks with the
Caviar chosen by 3 Michelin
starred chefs around the globe.
Joined by representatives from
Kaviari for a tutored Caviar Tasting
15.30 – 17.30
Food Heroes Meet and Greet
Chat with Iconic Chef, Pierre
Koffmann
Social Session - networking,
afternoon drinks and canapes

Glynn Purnell

Sam Dixon

Lisa Goodwin-Allen

Tom Brown

Pierre Koffmann

TUESDAY
10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee
Morning with a Difference”

Adam Handling

Tom Shepherd

11.00 – 11.45
Galton Blackiston, Chef
Patron 1 Michelin starred
Morston Hall with Will
Buchanan from Gressingham
Duck
Live Cooking Demo
11.45 – 12.15
Spirit of Hospitality Crew
chat about their recent
adventure rowing the Atlantic
for Hospitality Action

Spirit of Hospitality

WEDNESDAY

Jenny Collins

Ioannis Grammenos

Galton Blackiston

13.30 – 14.15
YNCOTY Winner 2023 Sam
Dixon and Lisa GoodwinAllen from 1 Michelin starred
Northcote Manor.
Sam recreates his winning
dish and reflects on his
recent trip to Norway.

Sally Abè

Adam Smith

Simon Hulstone

11.45 – 12.30
Tommy Banks, Chef Patron,
1 Michelin Star, The Black
Swan joins chefs’ legend
Mitch Mitchell, founder of
Yorkshire-based TRUEfoods
– the home of the finest
quality fresh stocks and
broths and global supplier to
Michelin chefs
Live Cooking Demo
12.30 – 13.15
Kerth Gumbs, Head Chef
Fenchurch Restaurant, Young
MasterChef Judge and GBM
Live Cooking Demo
13.30 – 14.15
Ioannis Grammenos
Executive Chef & Meatologist
- Heliot Steakhouse and Matt
Owens, head of culinary,
Alliance cook and talk about
the World’s Best Steak!

14.15 – 14.45
Norwegian Seafood
Discussion Panel
14.45 – 15.30
Simon Hulstone, 1 Michelin
starred, The Elephant,
Torquay
Live Cooking Demo

10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee morning
with a Difference”
11.00 – 11.45
Glynn Purnell, 1 Michelin
starred Purnells Restaurant
Birmingham - the first star in
the city of Birmingham
Live Cooking Demo

12.15 – 13.00
Tom Brown from 1 Michelin
starred Cornerstone,
Hackney and the newly
opened Pearly Queen
Live Cooking Demo
13.00 – 13.30
George Hersey, Group
Restaurant Director, Adam
Handling group and feature
writer, Chef & Restaurant
interviews leading UK
sommeliers to chat
trends, innovations and
relationships with kitchens.

George Hersey

Mark Sargeant

15.30 – 17.30
Meet and Chat with Very
Special Guests
Social afternoon session
- drinks and canapes
from Norwegian Seafood
prepared by Simon Hulstone

Kerth Gumbs

Tommy Banks

David Mulcahy

SWEET PEEPER GOES PERFECTLY WITH BOTH HOT AND COLD
DISHES SUCH AS SOUPS AND SALADS. IT TAKES DISHES TO THE
NEXT LEVEL THANKS TO ITS HIGH CREATIVE VALUE AND GOOD
BITE IN COMBINATION WITH THE LONG-LASTING, SIMPLE, DRY,
AND BITTERSWEET TASTE.

The yellow leaves and pink/red shoots add an extra dimension to
the dish while giving a nod to its origin: the sweet potato. In addition
to the leaf, you can also use the pickled shoots as a fine addition
to salads and sandwiches.

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Transform it into someone’s new favourite meal.
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Ready for the greatest show?
Chef Publishing Ltd
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PUBLISHER
Martyn Keen
martyn@chefpublishing.com
EDITOR
Claire Bosi
claire@chefpublishing.com
Tel:07753 687913
DRINKS EDITOR
Ian Churchill
ian@chefpublishing.com
WRITERS
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George Hersey
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DISTRIBUTION
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FINANCE
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DESIGNERS`
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COPYRIGHT
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publisher. Opinions expressed
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is taken, details are subject
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omissions and errors.
COVER IMAGE
Jodi Hinds

March has arrived, and with the daffodils peeking through on the roadsides, Easter eggs and
bunches of flowers for Mother’s Day comes HRC at ExCel and our very own Chef HQ – three
days celebrating the awesomeness that is hospitality. We have an incredible line-up this
year, so please make sure you have booked your tickets – this show is one worth travelling
to, everything you could ever need, all under one roof. Plus, plenty of action, from Chef HQ to
Salon Culinaire to the Future Plate. We can’t wait to catch up with so many of you there. (PS
we will have the best coffee available from Difference Coffee – every morning 10-11am)
February has been a mega month for Chef Publishing. From Northcote’s Obsession to the
GBI Michelin Reveal, preparations for the Craft Guild of Chefs 2024 Awards and the Roux
Scholarship Regional Finalists announcements. We are super fortunate to have been all
over the UK, visiting some of our newly awarded Michelin star chefs, catching up with our
media partners, planning chef trips for the forthcoming year and generally joining in on
conversations with you all, offering support as and where we can. We are, as always, every
grateful of your engagement with us and appreciate you keeping us up to date with your
movements, plans and aspirations.
It may be a month old, but I must reminisce on the Michelin Reveal, held at the Midland
Hotel, Manchester. I thought the team at Michelin and the team at the Midland Hotel,
led by chef Adam Reid, did an extraordinary job with the event planning and execution –
congratulations to everyone involved.
Emotions ran high during the reveal, and it all began with an instant standing ovation
for Chef Michel Roux Jr as he was invited onto the stage “We would still be standing and
clapping now” laughed Hrishikesh Desai, when I visited him last week “Gwendal Poullenec
[Michelin] had a job getting us to stop!”
Post the awards, we held an after party for the chefs with our friends from Wellocks. This
was an opportunity for everyone to really let their hair down and party – which they did.
My phone is full of hilarious images from the night, I was unaware we had so many great
dancers in our sector (Birchall, Viljanen, Handling, Donald to name a few)
One of the things I noticed, during the evening, was the lengths some – not all, though –
chefs will go to find and congratulate newly awarded stars. I saw Brett Graham, himself
crowned our new 3 Michelin star, take the time to seek out new stars and shake their hands.
The same can be said of Simon Rogan. Together, with his team, the Rogan crew paid
attention to all the newcomers. These moments are huge for chefs, especially the younger
ones. I still remember Marco Pierre White, Nico Ladenis and Michel Roux Sr coming up to
congratulate in the past. The notion that these culinary legends even cared was incredible. I
would urge all chefs, not just the few, but all chefs who have a ‘position’ in the sector to seek
out and welcome new talent. It’s important.
I realise we have not updated you on Choose Hospitality recently, our campaign to get
more kids joining our sector. As more employers join the Choose Hospitality Pledge, 400
secondary schools will be visited in the next 12 months, as leaders and industry names step
up in front of teenagers and let them know how fabulous our sector can be. If you have the
time, or are keen to join the movement, please drop me an email. We set out to make a
difference, and I really believe we are.

Til next time
Claire
6

It all starts with a
great foundation...
To explore supply contact

www.truefoodstld.com
REF: TF/CP/0324

+44 (0)1765 640 927

jack@truefoodsltd.com
Photograph: Andrew Hayes-Watkins

In this issue

CHEF PIERRE
KOFFMANN
THE CULINARY
LEGACY

CHEF SHINJI
KANESAKA
SHOKUNIN SPIRIT

16
SEAFOOD FROM
SCOTLAND
EXPLORING MUSSELS
A CULTURAL STAPLE
OF SCOTTISH CUISINE

30

CLASSIC FINE
HRISHIKESH
FOODS
UNVEILING THE RICH DESAI
DELIGHTS OF LAMB
SERVICE WITH
A SMILE

52
34
62

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In this issue

HRC
2024
CONNECT WITH
THE CHEF AND
RESTAURANT
COMMUNITY

76
WELLOCKS
PRODUCE NEWS

74

NORDIUM
CLASSIC FINE
VERMOBIL
WHERE AESTHETICS FOODS
AND COMFORT MEET ABSOLUTE
DURABILITY AND
REASSURANCE.

FRESHNESS &
INCREDIBLE TASTE
WITH CLASSIC
HARVEST

78 84

MOVERS &
SHAKERS
CHEF REY LOPEZ
JOINS CHEF PATRON
SANTIAGO LASTRA
AND THE TEAM
AT KOL AS HEAD CHEF
MARK MCCABE
APPOINTED AS HEAD
CHEF OF HENROCK
BY SIMON ROGAN
ARDFERN, A NEW ALLDAY DINING SPACE
FROM ROBERTA HALL
MCCARRON TO OPEN
IN EDINBURGH THIS
MAY

94

Frozen

Peach purée

For your Easter creations

• Bellerime variety
• No added sugar
• Unique pale pink colour
• Fruity and floral notes
Let’s cultivate fruit excellence.

In this issue

THE ROUX
SCHOLARSHIP
ANNOUNCES ITS

SEAFOOD FROM
NORWAY
NORWAY – UK 2024

18 REGIONAL
FINALISTS FOR
THE 2024
COMPETITION

SEAFOOD SUMMIT

102

WELLOCKS
TASTING IS BELIEVING

104

108

S.PELLEGRINO
YOUNG CHEF
ACADEMY
OPENS APPLICATIONS

WELLOCKS

TO THE SIXTH EDITION
CUSTOMER EVENTS
INVITING THE UK’S
2024
MOST TALENTED
JANUARY & FEBRUARY
YOUNG CHEFS TO
ENTER

114
112

We love taste !
We are passionate about nourishing your daily
inspiration with the best ingredients,
subtle and harmonious blends and refined
culinary creAtions.

INSYOPUIRRE
PASSION
With our unique
fresh chilled
products

MeesthowuLosndaotn
HRC

25-27 M- aH3r3c9h
Booth

discover our
full range

Our
Essentials

ideal for
mise-en-place

Our Blends

A culinary
journey around
the world

ready for
yOur dish

Garnish for finishing
your creations

In this issue

GEORGE
HERSEY
SPREADING THE

THE SOMMELIER
DIARIES
RIOJA ROYALTY

WORD OF THE POWER
OF HOSPITALITY

TOQUE
D’OR®
PASSION, SKILL
AND CREATIVITY
SHINE THROUGH IN
TOQUE D’OR® HEATS
SHORTLIST

116

118

CVNE SPREADS ITS
WINGS

WESTMINSTER
KINGSWAY
COLLEGE
ATTENDS THE YOUNG

124

CHEF OLYMPIAD

RECIPES

137
Apricot, Honey, Thyme
& Almond Tart
Recipe by Thibault
Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les
vergers Boiron

120
GASTRONOMIXS
MODULAR CREATIVITY
IN YOUR KITCHEN

132

White Peach & Vanilla
Flower Recipe
Recipe by Thibault
Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les
vergers Boiron
Poached and scorched
cherry tomatoes with
strawberry pearls.
Whipped yuzu tofu,
pickled shallots and
feather tops
By Chef Steve Walpole
Roasted cannon
of lamb with dried
Tahoon cress powder
crumb, puree of
butternut squash
with salty fingers,
asparagus, citrus
Tahoon cress butter
Planifolia Vanilla
panna cotta with Yka
leaves Glaze, Sansho
leaves macerated
fruits
By Chef Steve Walpole

Words Claire Bosi
Camera Jodi Hinds, Delifresh and Food Heroes

The

Culinary Legacyof

Chef Pierre

Koffmann

“ I F I H A D N ’ T B E C O M E A C H E F ? W E L L , I A L WAY S L O V E D P R O D U C E
A N D F A R M I N G , S O T H AT W O U L D H AV E B E E N A C H O I C E . B U T R E A L L Y ,
W H AT I L O V E TO WAT C H A N D F I N D S O A P P E A L I N G I S C A R P E N T RY .
S O M E T I M E S AT H O M E , I WAT C H Y O U T U B E V I D E O S O F W O O D W O R K E R S
A N D C A R P E N T E R S . A P I E C E O F W O O D , P O L I S H E D TO S H O W A L L T H E
G R A I N , A L L T H E H I S TO RY A N D N AT U R A L B E A U T Y O F T H E T R E E –
T H AT ’ S A R T I N I T S M O S T I M P R E S S I V E F O R M . S O , M AY B E I W O U L D H AV E
BEEN PIERRE KOFFMANN – CARPENTER”

16

17

It is hard to comprehend just how different
gastronomy in the UK would be today,
had Pierre Koffmann chosen to follow a
different passion to cooking. Born in Tarbes,
France, in 1948, Koffmann’s journey from
humble beginnings to Michelin-starred
success is nothing short of inspirational
and chefs across the UK still celebrate
his achievements, often dedicating
Koffmann-inspired dishes to the former
3 Michelin starred chef. The arrival of the
young Frenchman to UK shores was never
supposed to be a permanent move, however.
He only came to watch rugby.
“English food was a joke, back then. It was
rubbish. But I wanted to see England play
rugby against France at Twickenham. So, I
said I would go to England for six months and
find a job. It was easy to find a job as a chef”
18

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

Inspired during school holidays by his
grandparents, Marcel and Camille, joining in
with hunting, farming, foraging and cooking,
Pierre would opt, at the very young age of
just 14, to leave academic study and head to
culinary school for three years.
“I was at culinary school from 1963 to 1966, so
it was a very long time ago! Culinary schools
in France were run with discipline, they were
well funded by the government, because
France has the culture of appreciating food.
As student chefs, we were in the kitchen all
the time; I learned skills through repetition.
We learnt all the foundations, nothing arrived
at school prepped. Whole cows or veal would
come in and we would learn how to debone
and butcher. All the fish arrived whole, on the
bone. I can’t tell you how many whole Turbot
I filleted during those years. Stocks, sauces,

techniques – we were taught everything,
no compromise. Nothing came into those
kitchens in anything other than their raw,
natural state. I see some kids being taught
with pre-prepared fish fillets these days.
How can you really understand the fish, the
freshness and the beauty of it - let alone
which species it is - if it arrives to you as a
ready to cook portion?”
Graduating culinary school, Pierre then
spent time exploring the regional and
speciality cuisines of areas across France
from the northern Alsace to the southern
Provence and the mountainous regions of
the Pyrenees. He then headed to work in
Lausanne, Switzerland, before his love of
rugby and desire to see his home team play
against the brits made him cast his eyes
across the channel.

“In France, we had this newspaper called
‘L’Hotellerie’. It was what all chefs read. I saw
a piece about restaurant in London called Le
Gavroche. I knew nothing about the place,
nobody back home did. But I wrote a letter,
and they said I could come”
Arriving in London in 1970, Pierre found
himself a room to rent close to the restaurant
“it was very basic and cost half my wages.
If I wanted heating, I had to put coins into
a meter. The same with the television. You
could rent a TV in those days, but you had to
put 50p coins in it, to get it to work” he laughs.
Le Gavroche was unapologetically French
and Pierre joined a brigade made up mostly
of his fellow countrymen “I remember there
was just one Italian chap who worked in the
dining room, other than that, everything was
French. We spoke French, the menus, the
wines – everything was in French”
“Back then, Le Gavroche was open only at
night. They were closed for lunch, so we
would work from 1pm to the end of service
at night, six days a week and closed on
Sundays. In those days, the wages were
disastrous, but I didn’t come for the money,
I came for the rugby. Because I wasn’t
working in the mornings, I took a second
job at a restaurant on Fulham Road called
Le Francais. I would go there from 8am and
leave around 12.15pm to run across to Le
Gavroche to start my shift”

During those early years of Le Gavroche, both
brothers, the late Albert and Michel Roux Sr,
were present in the business “They had two
very different characters. Albert liked to be
mostly in the kitchen, doing chef stuff where
Michel was like a little bee, either in the
kitchens, out in front of customers or working
in the office. But the good thing about the
pair of them was that they always managed
to find good young chefs and give them a
lot of responsibility” Within six months of his
arrival and having cut his teeth in the kitchen,
Pierre Koffmann had been promoted to sous
chef. Le Gavroche was becoming London’s
flagship gastronomic destination - first
awarded a Michelin star in 1974, it secured a
second in 1977 and its third in 1982, which it
held onto until 1993.

something under his own name. Having
secured two Michelin stars at the Waterside
Inn, Pierre found his perfect location on Royal
Hospital Road in Chelsea. Unbeknownst to
him at the time, because the terminology
had not yet arrived in our consciousness,
Pierre used a crowdfunding method to
secure the site.

Beginning to grow the business, in 1971, the
Roux brothers opened Brasserie Benoit where
Pierre joined as head chef, before they then
acquired a run-down pub in Bray-on-Thames
that was to become the Waterside Inn. Albert
Roux remained at Le Gavroche; Michel Roux
Sr moved to Bray-on-Thames. Pierre also
relocated from bustling London for the role
as head chef of the Waterside Inn, with the
freedom to cook the food he wanted. In the
inaugural UK Michelin Guide, published in
1974, the Waterside was awarded one star,
then two in 1977 and three in 1985.

Three Michelin stars in the 1980’s, however,
did not bring the instant success or attention
as it does in 2024. There were no websites,
no social media, no influencers. Notification
of Michelin status was delivered via a press
release in a national newspaper, to become
fish and chip wrapping the following day.
For a restaurant to be full and trading
successfully, it was down to restaurant critics
and reviewers to take notice of the place
and for the Chef Patron and his Maitre’d
Jean-Pierre, who had joined him from Le
Gavroche, to create an ambience and menu
people would return for.

The time would inevitably come when
chef Pierre Koffmann would want to open

“It was 1977. I remember Royal Hospital Road
cost me £4000, back then” he laughs “but
I didn’t have all £4000. I put in what I had,
then took investment from the Roux family,
from actor Michael Caine and Professor Von
Clan. We opened the same year”
Within just six years of opening, in 1983, La
Tante Claire was awarded 3 Michelin stars.

“Restaurant critics were more important back
then, for sure. To have an important reviewer
come to your restaurant and write about it in
newspapers or glossy magazines was a big
deal, it would fill the dining room. The Egon
Ronay Guide – that was very influential too. I
never opened La Tante Claire with a burning
ambition to get three Michelin stars – you
see chefs today who only want that, they
become almost obsessed with that. I just
wanted to cook, and the three stars...well,
they just happened. All I ever wanted to do
was cook.
“I have never chased the money, never
wanted to own a chain of restaurants. I had
one restaurant and focussed entirely on that.
My brigade was small, because I was always
there. My Maitre’d was exceptional, he kept
guests wanting to come back. You need to
have a good team around you. It’s not only
one person, you know. On your own you
cannot achieve it. You’ve got to have those
19

three things together - food, ambiance and
service. You also need a little bit of luck, and
to be – what’s the word? Fashionable, en
vogue – something like that. People have to
want what you are offering”
As one of the most important dining rooms
in a city that was still under serviced with
quality establishments, highly ambitious
young chefs tended to crop up in several of
the same kitchens. La Tante Claire was no
exception to the rule, and as such, some of
our most successful chefs of modern times,
trained under Pierre Koffmann.

ALUMNI.
The list reads like a who’s who of UK
gastronomy - Marco Pierre White, Gordon
Ramsay, Eric Chavot, Tom Kitchin, Jason
Atherton, Bruno Loubet - to name drop just
a few. Beyond his accolades and awards,
Pierre Koffmann’s enduring legacy lies in
the countless chefs he has inspired and

20

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

mentored over the years. An unwavering
dedication to the craft, coupled with his
famous generosity of spirit, has shaped the
careers of aspiring cooks around the globe.
His influence extends far beyond the walls
of his former kitchens, it permeates the
culinary landscape. I ask Pierre for some
recollections of some of his alumni
“Marco” he laughs “Well, he said, ‘can
I work for you’ I said, ‘OK, we start on
Monday at 8am’. Monday 8am came and
went. Marco rocked up at 9am ‘sorry chef,
I was busy’. I told him that I expected him
in the kitchen for 8am and not to be late
again. Tuesday 8am came and went.
Again, no Marco - he arrived after 9am. I
told him ‘Marco, there is no point to work
here. Take your stuff and leave now. I don’t
want to see you’. Marco was apologising
over and over. I must have been in a good
mood that day, because I said I would give
him one more chance to turn up on time.
Wednesday he was in at 8am and we
never had another problem after that. After
that, he really excelled. We were only ever

four in the kitchen and, as quality produce
was still difficult to source in those days, we
had a guy called William Black who would
drive a van to Rungis Market every week
and stock up on Foie Gras, Poulet de Bresse,
Pigeon, Truffles, fish etc and bring them
back to the restaurant. Every Wednesday
morning the van would arrive and usually, I
would unload and prep the produce myself.
One day, Marco decided that he would
be the one to do this every week ‘I’ll do it
myself, chef. I’ll do it for you’ and he did,
every week. He did it as well as I did”
“Gordon. You know Gordon, from the
beginning, I could see his drive and ambition.
Always, always full of energy! Gordon joined
me as head chef of La Tante Claire in 1993.
He was dynamic from the start, passionate
about adding input in the kitchen. At times, I
had to explain to the him why some dishes
wouldn’t work for La Tante Claire repertoire.
I was not interested in putting a crab risotto
on the menu, because I’m not Italian. I love
crab risotto, but if I wanted to eat one, I would
go to an Italian place. But Gordon had some

serious experience under his belt, by the time
he joined me. I knew it was only a matter of
time before he opened his own restaurant.
When I sold Royal Hospital Road in 1998 to
Gordon, he didn’t have enough money raised
to buy it. But I knew he had the ambition and
the skills to back himself. I told him that he
could pay 50% upfront, and the rest when he
could afford it. It was a risk for me, but I had
complete confidence that Gordon would go
on to become a huge success story, though
perhaps not as huge as he eventually became!
That is testament to Gordon also taking risks,
putting the work in, producing the results and
going for it. Plus, you have got to help young
chefs, if you can, right? That is something I see
him do, today. By selling him Royal Hospital
Road in instalments, he could get the keys to
his first restaurant”
“Eric Chavot. He stayed with me for 5 years –
the longest one, before he then went to join
Marco at Harveys. Eric is a brilliant chef; French
gastronomy in in his blood. When he joined the
Capital Hotel in 1999, I was not surprised to see
him awarded two Michelin stars”
21

“Tom Kitchin. I ate at Tom Kitchin’s a couple
of months ago. It was incredible. Why he
doesn’t have two Michelin stars, I do not
know. Tom was always a very good young
chef, always keen to learn. Now I think he is
one of the best”
Was there a connecting quality in his alumni
that told Pierre Koffmann these chefs would
go on to achieve great things? “Yes, you
could see it in their eyes. Being in the kitchen
was everything to them. You could feel it in
their passion, they had the presence of great
chefs in the making. When they went on to
run their own kitchens, you could taste it in
their food”

RELOCATING LA TANTE CLAIRE
In 1998, when Pierre Koffmann sold his Royal
Hospital Road site to Gordon Ramsay, he
transferred his restaurant to the Berkeley
Hotel where La Tante Claire would call
home until it closed permanently in 2003.
The move came after the death of his first
wife, Annie, who he had met while working
at the Waterside Inn “I was a bit fed up
there, you know. Sometimes, and I don’t
mind admitting this, I have the mind of a
child. When you have a toy and break it on
22

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

purpose. That’s the reason, I moved. I needed
something new”
Retirement in 2003 proved itself to be
premature for a chef who is never happier
than when in his kitchen. Years passed
filled with consulting for restaurants before
Pierre was asked to bring La Tante Claire
back in 2009, as a one-week pop-up on
the rooftop at Selfridges. This became a
residency of several months and relit the
flame. In 2010, having found love for the
second time around with his new wife, Claire,
the chef returned to the Berkeley Hotel once
more, opening ‘Koffmanns’. It was to be
a restaurant dedicated to food memories
of his childhood. No Michelin stars, just a
celebration of Gascon food. Koffmann’s
remained open, with the chef back behind
the stove, until December 2016.

ON DINING IN LONDON IN
THE 1970’S
“It was only really hotels. I don’t remember
any good independent restaurants. It was
not fashionable to have small restaurants,
not good ones, anyway - like we see
now. If you wanted to eat well, you had
the Connaught, that was very good. The

Savoy, the Ritz - all those places. People
with money, they would never go to small
restaurants, they would go to hotels.
“Le Gavroche was a little bit different. The
Roux brothers filled it with very good chefs,
and the place had a reputation. One of the
senior chefs who started Le Gavroche with
Albert and Michel was a guy called Denis he was a brilliant chef. He really drove that
kitchen. Then there was another chef called
Guy, he was a fantastic, very classical chef.
When Guy left Le Gavroche, he opened a
small restaurant in South Kensington called
‘Ma Cuisine’. It was very successful, and you
could see the beginnings of the trend of
chefs opening independent places. But up
until that point, only the grand palace hotels
could offer fine dining, and those hotels
employed Swiss or German executive chefs”

ON CHANGING TIMES
“It is so different today, to what it was
when I was a young chef. Today, people get
promoted so quickly. Too many are chasing
the title and the money. I spent 3 years at
culinary school in training, then several years
as a commis. I think you should have at least
5 years’ experience in a commis position
to move up to chef de partie. My advice is
always to invest your time training in your
formative years - the money will follow.
“You hear stories – a young person will come
to a kitchen as a KP, two months later they
are given a commis role. Six months down
the line they are the sous-chef, one year later
they are the head chef. There is no way a
chef can learn the foundations in that time.
But that raises the question. With so many
restaurants cooking different styles – do they
need to know all the foundations. I would say
yes, but maybe I am wrong”
“I suppose training depends on which type
of restaurant you aspire to work in. If you
are talking about Michelin, it’s a bit more
serious, you need the fundamentals. But we
have so many restaurants that are casual
dining chains. Lego restaurants, I call them.
They get that from there, this from here and
they put it all together on a plate. Suppliers,
wholesalers, central units do a lot of the prep
work for them. Maybe some will manage to
cook a piece of meat, but a lot of their stuff
comes from somewhere else, it arrives ready
to heat and serve.
23

“I was lucky because I went to cookery school
where we were taught how to make stocks and
sauces. It’s important to know all the basics.
Even at La Tante Claire - we still did all the
basics. Every chef knew how to do fish stock,
beef stock, any kind of stock. All the fish was
on the bone, the meat on the bone, everything
was on the bone. I once heard a chef say, ‘We
have a white Salmon chef’ and I went to look. It
was a Sea Bass; they had just never seen a fish
in one piece – only in portions”
“On the subject of pressure? Pressure can be
good. I always worked better, under pressure.
I always said, one foot on the safe ground,
and one foot in the shit! It worked very well
for me because, you know, you learn how
to organise yourself. You must work faster,
cleaner and tidier. I was always pushing my
guys to be out on their breaks by 3 o’clock. I
didn’t want anybody in the kitchen after 3pm,
so had to push them towards that deadline.
Because sometimes they liked to talk, and
afterwards complain that they were doing
too many hours.
“At night, I would say to the team, ‘start to
clean before the service is finished’. Keep
your tables clean, keep your stove clean.

24

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

If there is a bit of fat on the stove during
service, wipe it then, don’t allow it to burn,
or it will take ages to clean. If you do that,
you know, keep tidy - it’s easier, and you
don’t do so many hours.
“The profession seems to have moved to
a four-day working week, which I suppose
is a good thing for the employee, not so
much the employer. But with a shortage of
staff, there hasn’t been much of an option.
Personally, I thought five days was okay.
But young chefs nowadays will just go to
the place next door for a job that offers
four days, rather than work for five. When
I was young, I was working in the seasons
in France. In summertime or wintertime
for the ski, you worked seven days a week.
Afterwards, of course, you got a large
break, you could have two months holiday.
But for two months straight, I wouldn’t have
a single day off. I survived.
“When I was at La Tante Claire, the
restaurant was closed Saturday and
Sundays. We closed two weeks over Easter
and Christmas, and then three weeks for
August. My chefs, myself and my FOH all
worked 5 days a week”

“On the increase in salaries, I will never
criticise that. Especially here, in London. I
remember people earning a commis chef
salary of £18,000. To live in London on that
money is almost impossible.

ON THE RESPONSIBILITY OF
MENTORSHIP
“Being a mentor. Take this as an example.
I never worked for money. I came to Le
Gavroche, I didn’t know what the salary was
when I arrived. I never worked for the money.
You go to work somewhere, because you are
learning something. If you are learning, then
you are doing it properly. If you are teaching,
you are doing it properly.
“If you understand that, learn a lot and
become a good chef, the money will come.
But don’t ask for the money at the beginning,
because you know nothing at the beginning.
The money will come if you are a good chef.
“To dish out critique is very, very easy. But if you
employ a young chef and take the time to show
him or her properly, and you don’t shout at
25

them when they fail, you just explain what they
did wrong, that young chef will be encouraged.
They want to be proud of their results. You
must be as passionate about training your
chefs as you are about cooking your own
food. Putting a chef in the back of a kitchen,
showing them nothing and not engaging with
them – well, it is simple, they will leave you for
someone who does the opposite”

PIERRE, CLAIRE AND THE FOOD
HEROES
“Gastronomy starts with produce. As a
boy, I was lucky to spend time with my
grandparents who taught me to appreciate
the value of getting the best produce. My

26

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

grandfather grew it, my grandmother cooked
it. What we didn’t grow, forage or hunt was
still sourced for the very best quality. It is
something intrinsic in the culture in France”

it was smoked. Nowadays, of course, it
is completely different. UK fishermen are
landing many brilliant species – remember, I
am talking about the 70’s!

A commitment to sourcing only the finest
produce remained with Pierre through his
entire career. Upon arriving in the UK, he
discovered the culture towards produce was
very different compared with back home “It
was hard. The culture just wasn’t there. For
an island, surrounded by water, all the fish
tended be Dover Sole, Turbot, Brill or Cod.
I was looking for Red Mullet, John Dory –
species used a lot in France, from the same
water. Mackerel would be eaten – only if

“Meat was pretty good, especially beef and
lamb – but there were no quality chickens,
ducks or anything like guinea fowl or pigeon.
Of course, seasonal produce, apples, root
vegetables etc was being grown across the
country, but mostly sold in its locality. Today
UK produce is among some of the best in the
world – not least, its potatoes!”
There are likely no other specialists on the
subject of potatoes more knowledgeable,

than Pierres wife, Claire, and her brother
Simon Martin – and that now includes Pierre.
Joining the Food Heroes and launching
Koffmann’s fries was a combination of his
knowledge of produce, a desire to educate
and support fellow chefs and the love of a
good woman
“Claire, my wife, she was working in the
potato industry. She knows a lot about
potatoes, much more than me. Simon, her
brother was also working in the sector – they
are from a farming background, so it is in
their DNA. I had done my time in a kitchen as
a chef, and I had enjoyed it. I was lucky to find
a job that was perfect for me. Now was the
time for something different.
“The three of us, together, we decided to
sell potatoes to chefs. But based on my
background and experience, we would do it
differently”
There are ‘hundreds of varieties’ of potatoes,
Pierre says “But I don’t think many chefs
know that, and many don’t know about the
best varieties for different cooking methods.
I wonder how many – if you take away the
summer season Jersey Royals, or Charlottes
– could even list ten varieties of large potato?
Or know what the best seasons for individual
varieties are?”
Simplicity has been the key to the Food
Heroes success. By packing their UK grown
potatoes into different coloured bags
according to their best usage, chefs can be
guaranteed they will be delivered potatoes
that do the job they want – whether
27

chipping, boiling, mashing or roasting “We
do it this way to help the chef, which is
especially important now, with shortage
of staff. It also removes any mistakes – the
wrong potatoes being used for the wrong
method, so also helps to prevent food
waste. The varieties are not marked on
the bags, the usage is. However, each bag
has a number, and our office can tell you
exactly what the variety is, even who
grew them.
“In any bag of Food Heroes potatoes, what
you get is the best potato at that time of
year, for the preparation you are looking
for. It’s simple. The variety will change
throughout the year, as the seasons change
and the starch or sugar content of each
variety dictates.
“If you take a King Edward, you know, a King
Edward is good for three or four months of
the year. After that, there is another potato
that is better. Historically, people in the UK
have used King Edward all year round – but
they shouldn’t. What we do, is we select
the potato during its peak season. Potatoes
should be seasonal, according to what you
are doing with them.
“A potato is a kind of living product. It’s
strange to say that, but if you put a potato
with its skin on in the fridge under 8
degrees Celsius, the potato constitution
would change completely. If you want to
make a frying potato with it, it won’t work
because the starch turns into sugar when
below 8 degrees. Because it turns into
sugar, when you do your French fries, they
will be on the dark side and not crispy at all.
“But. If you peel the potato, you can put it in
a fridge. It can go under 8 degrees. So, with
the skin on, it should be over 8 degrees,
without the skin, you can keep it in the
fridge. It doesn’t change the constitution”
“What is very important for the potato,
also where The Food Heroes are strong,
is storage. We don’t store our potatoes
in the cold. Many supermarkets will store
their potatoes in huge fridges. We don’t
do that. We store our potatoes at room
temperature, so over 8 or 9 degrees. And
now, as potato experts, we’ve also got to
be honest. There is a period in a year when
potatoes are not good.
28

CHEF PIERRE KOFFMANN

“End of June, beginning of July, when there’s
old stock of potatoes, they’re not as good. I
would recommend, if you want to do some
French fries, buy frozen potato. Because
that period can last a month”
Totally absorbed in our potato-based
conversation, I am amazed at the depth
of knowledge Pierre Koffmann has about
this very much taken for granted tuber and
how much I didn’t know before our chat “It
is Claire who is the expert” he laughs “She
knows far more than me”
Koffmann’s fries were an inevitable next
stop. With many starred chefs branching
out into casual dining as secondary
businesses, or high-street chains, stadiums
or gastropubs looking for quality and
consistency, the trademarked portfolio of
Koffmann’s fries is a result of a meticulous
selection of ingredients and a precise
execution of technique – guided by Pierre
Koffmann’s decades of culinary knowledge
Starting with the finest potatoes, sourced
for their ideal texture and flavour profile,
the fries undergo a meticulous process
of preparation. They are cut into uniform
shapes to ensure even cooking and
optimal crispiness. The fries are double
cooked, first blanched at a precise
temperature to achieve a fluffy interior,
then fried at a higher temperature to attain
a golden, crispy exterior. Each batch is
seasoned with a unique blend of salts and
spices, carefully curated to enhance the
natural flavour of the potatoes without
overpowering them. It is something Pierre
is proud of “We see pubs, restaurant
chains, stadiums and food trucks around
the country, putting the Koffmann’s Fries
trademarked names on their menus. We
then moved into roast potatoes and, of
course, Marco Pierre White joined us with
his Retro range of potato products. At
the core of it, it’s chefs who have a love
of good products and who understand
consistency and quality, creating
something for other chefs to rely on”

ON DINING OUT IN 2024
“It’s unrecognisable. Today, you can eat
in the UK as well as anywhere else in the
world. You can get amazing produce,
whether fish, meat, cheese or vegetables.
Over the years, chefs having been driving

UK farmers and fishermen, always asking for
better and supporting them. It’s wonderful”
Today, Pierre Koffmann is still as invested in
gastronomy as he was back in the 1970’s.
The word ‘legend’ is often thrown around
our sector, yet Pierre is exactly that. A living
legend who remains as excited about the
profession as he was back in those early
days of Le Gavroche. He is always happy to
voice support for younger generations of
student chefs, yet he has never forgotten

those who have worked for him throughout
the years. He keeps a close eye on them all.
As we are sat having our chat, a young chef
I know pops in to say hello – he is off for a
trial tomorrow and Pierre instantly turns his
attention to him, like he is transported back
to his own kitchens at La Tante Claire.
“You ready? Make sure you turn up on time.
Do your best. Be willing to learn. Listen to
what chef says. And have you packed a
clean jacket?”
29

Exploring

mussels
A cultural staple of
Scottish cuisine
FROM PUBS UP AND DOWN
T H E C O U N T RY TO T H E M E N U S
O F T H E V E RY B E S T M I C H E L I N
S TA R R E S TA U R A N T S , M U S S E L S
TA K E P R I D E O F P L A C E I N T H E
HEARTS OF SEAFOOD LOVERS
N AT I O N W I D E .

30

Their history as part of the Scottish diet stretches
back an incredible 20,000 years, with cultivation
recorded as far back as the 13th century.
Farmed mussels are grown at sites across the
west coast of Scotland and the islands including
Shetland and the Outer Hebrides, with the
country’s irregular and indented coastline creating
the perfect environment for the plump and juicy
specimens to grow.
The pristine waters that Scottish mussels call
home create a product that is bursting with
flavour and world-renowned – so much that
Scottish mussels are revered by top chefs for their
exceptional quality.
Plump and sweet in taste with vibrant blue shells,
Scottish mussels are rich in flavour with the very
best examples coming right before they spawn at
the end of February. Mussels are in season from
September to April. Chef wisdom says they are
best enjoyed in any month that has an ‘r’ in it!
Mussels can also be caught in the wild. They tend
to be smaller and less meaty than their farmed
cousins, but they are also delicious, retaining a
slightly gritty texture and a stronger fishy flavour
rarely found in its hand-reared equivalent.
Mussels are bivalves, filter feeders similar to
oysters and scallops that live off the sea’s natural
nutrients. They are farmed in Scotland’s lochs and
inlets by employing vertical ‘ropes’ or fabric that
hang in the water from heavy horizontal ropes
or buoys arranged in long lines parallel to the
shoreline.

31

Suppliers naturally stock their sites with
young larval mussels known as spat. This
process is considered environmentally
friendly and means Scotland ranks highly
in terms of sustainability.
This combination means that when you
serve mussels from Scottish waters, you
can be confident that not only will you be
guaranteed a delicious dish of the highest
quality, but a product that underlines the
nation’s dedication for a healthy marine
ecosystem and a positive future for the
species.
This Scottish provenance – a
byword for quality - is assured by
the eclectic range of businesses
that go to great lengths to
make sure Scottish mussels
are deserving of their
worldwide acclaim.

32

SEAFOOD FROM SCOTLAND

PAIRING AND FLAVOUR RECOMMENDATIONS:
Often known for the classic French dish ‘moules marinière’ mussels are popularly prepared with garlic,
shallots, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, double cream and served with crusty bread to soak up the delicious sauce.
However, they are a versatile seafood option that can star alongside a variety of other accompaniments.
With mussels being in their prime right now, why not consider new flavour pairing ideas:
Seasoning: Mussels lend themselves to a variety of seasonings, with coconut, lemongrass, chilli and ginger
bringing an Asian flair to prospective dishes.
Pasta and risotto: The succulent texture of mussels marry well with creamy pasta and rice dishes, while
adding something special to a traditional Spanish paella.
Wine: Mussels suit a crisp dry white like a Pinot Grigio or other Italian white, but an unoaked Chardonnay or
fruity Sauvignon Blanc such as Sauvignon de Touraine can be an enticing option as well.

DID YOU KNOW:
In addition to their delicious flavour, mussels bring a range of health benefits to the table.
Mussels are perfect for those needing to up their omega-3 intake, while containing more protein and iron per calorie than a fillet steak.
They are a natural source of iodine, a mineral needed to regulate your thyroid hormones which control the body’s metabolism.
Mussels contain selenium, a mineral known for the positive effects on your skin.

33

Words Claire Bosi
Images courtesy of the Dorchester Collection.

Shinji
Kanesaka
Chef

SHOKUNIN SPIRIT
“ A S A Y O U N G A P P R E N T I C E C H E F I N TO K Y O , O N E O F M Y D U T I E S
W O U L D B E TO CO L L E C T T H E F I S H F R O M T H E M A R K E T . O N E DAY , I
WA S CO M I N G B A C K F R O M T H E M A R K E T W I T H A V E RY E X P E N S I V E
A N D H U G E F I S H I N WAT E R . S O M E H OW , T H E F I S H S L I P P E D O U T O F
T H E C A R R I E R – A N D WA S H I T B Y A C A R ! I H A D TO R E T U R N TO T H E
M A R K E T F O R A N O T H E R – B U T T H E N H A D TO E X P L A I N TO M Y C H E F ,
T H E F O L L OW I N G DAY , W H Y H E H A D R E C E I V E D T W O I N V O I C E S ”
34

35

It is just one week since the GBI Michelin
reveal where Chef Shinji Kanesaka’s newly
opened UK restaurant, Sushi Kanesaka at 45
Park Lane, was promptly awarded its first
star. The restaurant, which sits upstairs in
the extremely glamourous building across
the road from the Dorchester Hotel and
opened on July 1st 2023, offers an exclusive
omakase sushi experience for a maximum of
13 diners. There are nine seats at the counter
and a private room that accommodates
another four. As I make my way up to the
restaurant for my interview with Chef Shinji,
I had no idea what to expect. After all, we
are speaking via their incredible reservations
manager, who acts as translator. But is it
36

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

possible to get a real sense of the man, if I
cannot communicate directly with him?
The answer to that question lies within
something Chef Shiji says to me at the
very end of our discussion. We are talking
about Kabuki theatre, a classical form
of Japanese theatre that dates to the 17th
century. Traditionally, Kabuki is a mix of
dance and dramatisations, with not much
spoken word – yet the audience, whether
Japanese speaking or not, follow the story
with ease “Emotion and storytelling” Shinji
says “You don’t always need spoken word.
We [humankind] can communicate through
many other avenues – eye contact, gestures,

heart to heart if you like” And I find he is
absolutely right. Though I do not speak a
word of Japanese, and Chef Shinji speaks
only a very little English, we are able to chat,
laugh, enjoy one another’s conversation and
company. Before I know it, I have completely
forgotten that we do not share a common
language.
Chef Shinji, born in the Chiba Prefecture,
situated east of Tokyo, had no early
aspiration to become one of Japan’s most
highly regarded sushi masters. His childhood
passion was in sports – baseball, to be
precise. Having shown aptitude for the game,
Shinji’s sights were set on a professional

37

career on the playing field. During those
years of training, Shinji home stayed at a
small place that prepared sushi. When he
decided that baseball was not to be his
future, Shinji had to look elsewhere for
a career. The only other passion he had
discovered was observing sushi chefs at
work during his home stay. Giving up the
sport “though I do still coach baseball to kids
in my free time today – 110 of them back at
home” he laughs, and aged just 17, Shinji
enrolled himself for a year at culinary school
“Culinary school was good, but for me, I felt
that I would be better placed if I were to learn
on the job. I wanted to enter the profession
as an apprentice, which I did” Joining Ginza
Kyubey, a famous sushi restaurant that
38

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

first opened in 1935, Shinji would begin at
the very bottom, but through commitment
and determination, aged just 23, he would
become the restaurant’s youngest ever sushi
chef to be entrusted with serving diners.
“An apprenticeship, somewhere like Kyubey,
is an investment on behalf of the scholar to
take time and learn. It is a very traditional
process. For the very first year of your
training, an apprentice may only wash up.
Cleanliness and order are critical to your
training. If you can clean, you can learn.
“The second and third year of your
apprenticeship, you may be allowed to start
to prep some fish, but very gradually. During
your fourth year, you can begin to shape

some sushi rice and through your fifth year,
you may start to participate with the making
of sushi. But still not in front of the diner.
“On your sixth year as apprentice, you will
then become the main support to your chef
and only after 7 or 8 years as apprentice, will
you be able to serve customers face to face”
As with the UK, the perceived role of a chef
in Japan has undergone something of a
revolution in recent years. Once deemed
a lesser role in society, Japanese chefs are
now being viewed as skilled professionals,
the career seen as aspirational rather than
unambitious and this is something Shinji
welcomes wholeheartedly “Until a few years
ago, the perception of becoming a chef
was seen the same way as in many other
countries. Now the sentiment towards what
a chef does has become more respected,
which is a good change. The chef’s salary is
now high, which I think is very good.
“All over Japan, where it used to be a trend
that each hotel should offer European
cuisine, there has been a dramatic shift. Now,
all the hotels want to have a sushi restaurant.
There is more demand for sushi chefs, than
there is supply. So, it helps the sushi chef
gain higher salaries, which is more promising
for the younger generations”
Aged just 28, and after 10 years an
apprentice, Chef Shinji would throw caution
to the wind and embark upon his own
venture “I had it on my mind that if I made
it through ten years of training, I would
open my own place. There were personal
reasons too. My father had passed away and
my family had some debt – so I wanted to
help out. My problem lay in money – there
was not the culture of investors back then, I
needed to do everything myself”
Chef Shinji began to look for a premises. He
viewed four, and every landlord said no to
him. Finally, in 2000 he found a building in
Tokyo’s prime Ginza district with a landlady
who gave him a chance “I remain very
grateful to her to this day. She gave me the
opportunity to make this happen”
Having found a site, money was still an issue.
He had none and the only thing of value
Shinji owned was his life insurance policy
“This may sound crazy – but I handed over
39

my life insurance as a guarantee to get
finance. I thought at the time ‘if it doesn’t
work out, I can throw myself off a bridge and
pay the bills’
As Shinji relays this story, it becomes clear
that both his restaurant manager and
translator have never heard this tale before,
and though we all laugh about it now, it
is clear in Shinji’s eyes, that there was a
desperate need for the chef to support his
family. He would throw everything at it,
including himself, if necessary.
Site found, money secured, it would
then be down to the chef to get the work
40

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

done transforming the building into a
restaurant “I had to be careful with costs
– so I did it myself. I was smashing walls
down, sourcing all the materials for the
restaurant, fitting them myself. I slept in
the restaurant for days, often working
straight through 48 hours to get the refit
done”
Finally, Sushi Kanesaka opened its doors.
To not enough customers. “I had learnt
that I should consistently open the doors
every night, and always have the sign lit
outside on the street to bring customers in.
But we struggled. I was like ‘what the hell?’.
It was tough. Sometimes I would have just

£500 in the till and had to pay the fish bill
in part, or the utilities in part. If it snowed
heavily in January, the restaurant couldn’t
open – so we would have no income. I had
two apprentices that had accommodation.
Sometimes I lived with them, other times
I slept in the bathroom of the restaurant,
because it was warm, and I wanted my
apprentices to have their own space”
Struggling financially, Shinji looked
around for someone who could help bring
attention to his business “there was no
Instagram back then, but I needed to do
something to bring awareness to the
restaurant. I couldn’t survive anymore”

A chance visit to a bookstore would give
Shinji the inspiration he needed “I was in this
shop and there was a display of best-selling
books. One book was of this gentleman who
had a popular fashion brand in Japan and I
kind of knew his partner.
“I decided that I needed someone with
some influence to come and eat in my
restaurant, so I went to their offices and
waited with a little gift – a kind of sushi roll,
but much bigger, designed for a celebration.
I presented her with the roll and asked if
she would come and eat in my restaurant,
give her an opportunity to share it with her
community. She came, and then wrote
41

something for a leading Japanese magazine.
It worked, and the restaurant became busy. It
completely changed overnight”
With a thriving restaurant, the accolades
began pouring in, notably entering the
Tokyo Michelin guide with an immediate
two Michelin stars “It was an emotional
moment. When we were awarded two stars
straight away, it made me reminisce a lot.
The nights spent sleeping on the restaurant
floor, ten years without a single day off, I
remembered everything I had gone through
to get to that place”
Now one of the most celebrated sushi
masters in Japan, the stage was set for
Shinji to spread his ethos. Events at the
Cannes Film Festival, for Armani at the
42

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

Peninsula, Tokyo, business trips to Monaco
and Thailand and openings of sister sites in
Singapore & St Regis followed, before Shinji
would cast his eyes further afield. To London.

WHY LONDON?
“I want to spread Japanese culture to the
world. I think that’s the reason why I’m here.
To bring new understanding of traditional
Japanese sushi to a different audience, to
deepen the appreciation of Japanese cuisine.
To present time-honoured techniques and
different flavours.”
He had only visited London once before in
pre-pandemic times, staying at Claridge’s
hotel and dining in the city. When the
opportunity to open something at 45 Park
Lane presented itself – Shinji saw this as a

vehicle to share the values and ethos of the
omakase experience to a new audience “The
Japanese food that I had eaten in London
on my first visit had already created a better
environment for sushi restaurants to open
in London. The city is also diverse, there
are many different styles of cuisine and
restaurants here, diners are more willing
to try new things. Plus, there are many
international visitors”
Knowing that wild Japanese fish could not
be imported to London, Shinji began to pay
attention to the seafood available from
UK waters “In London, most of the fish is
only coming from the sea, not so much
fresh water. The prep is slightly different to
what we do in Japan. And some techniques
will be also different. In Japan our fish is

43

slaughtered by a very humane method
known as ‘Ike jime’ and this is not something
many UK fishermen know how to do.
Ike Jime is a very traditional Japanese method
of euthanising fish – and while it sounds
not for the faint hearted, it is revered to
be the most instantaneous and humane
method of killing fish. In short, a thin spike
is entered into the brain cavity which kills
44

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

it immediately. The spinal cord is then
removed, and the fish placed on ice. It is
a precise and skilled method, common in
Japan, pretty unheard of in the UK. Ike Jime
slaughtered fish is said to allow the fish to
develop more umami when aged.
As with his original restaurant in Tokyo, Shinji
has been involved in the design and fit out
of the restaurant. There are unique vases by

culture a little bit better. We have a good
mix that positively affects the quality of the
service and the outcome of the restaurant.
They have all been my students”

WHAT IS EDOMAE SUSHI?
Edomae sushi refers to a traditional style of
sushi that originated in the Edo period (16031868) in Japan, particularly in the bustling city
of Edo - which is now known as Tokyo.
The term “Edo-mae” literally translates to
“in front of Edo,” referring to the old name of
Tokyo and indicating that the sushi is made
using traditional methods and ingredients
from the Edo era.
In Edomae sushi, the emphasis is on
simplicity, freshness, and seasonality. The
key components include vinegared rice
(shari) and raw fish or other seafood (neta).
The sushi chef carefully selects only the
freshest, highest-quality fish and seafood
available.
Edomae sushi chefs often use specific
techniques to enhance the flavour and
texture of the fish, such as marinating,
curing, or lightly searing certain varieties.
The rice is seasoned with a mixture of
rice vinegar, sugar, and salt, which adds a
delicate tanginess and helps to highlight the
flavour of the fish.
Presentation is also an essential aspect
of Edomae sushi, with chefs paying close
attention to aesthetics and arranging the
sushi pieces in a visually appealing manner.
Traditionally, Edomae sushi is served piece by
piece directly from the chef to the customer,
allowing for a very personal and interactive
dining experience.

ceramic artist Shiro Tsujimura, printed drapes
as you enter and wooden hinoki ice chests
that ensure the temperature and quality
of the fish is perfect and consistent. The
nine-seater counter has been crafted from
a single piece of cedar, flown in from Japan.
The attention to detail is evident in every
corner of the building, from the seating to the
dressing to the authentic plates and bowls.
Even more so in the team.

Curating a team who would relocate to
London, Shinji first appointed head chef
Hirotaka Wada, who had worked alongside
him for 5 years “He was happy and excited to
relocate to London – the whole team were.
Everyone here comes from different places.
Our host, for example, she worked in Kyoto
before, and she has different knowledge.
Some staff have been outside of Japan for
a very long time, so understand Western

Edomae sushi represents a centuries-old
culinary tradition that continues to be
celebrated for its craftsmanship, attention
to detail, and dedication to showcasing the
natural flavours of the sea.

WHAT IS AN OMAKASE
EXPERIENCE?
An omakase experience is a type of dining
experience commonly found in Japanese
cuisine, particularly in sushi restaurants.
The word “omakase” translates to “I’ll leave
it up to you” or “chef’s choice” in Japanese.
In an omakase meal, the diner entrusts the
45

46

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

chef to select and serve a series of dishes,
typically sushi or sashimi, based on the chef’s
expertise, creativity, and the availability of
fresh, seasonal ingredients. At the core of an
Omakase experience is a deeply personal
connection between chef and diner, with the
former curating a bespoke menu for the latter.
Trust in the Chef: In a similar vein to
our tasting menus, during an Omakase
experience, the diner hands over control over
their meal selections to the chef. Instead of
ordering specific items from a menu, they
allow the chef to curate a unique dining
experience based on their preferences,
dietary restrictions, and the chef’s
recommendations. Unlike most tasting
menus in the UK, this means that the menu
will vary from customer to customer.
Seasonal and Fresh Ingredients: Omakase
meals feature only the freshest and highestquality ingredients available, with an emphasis
on seasonal produce and seafood. The chef
may incorporate rare or specialty ingredients.

Creative Presentation: Omakase dishes
are typically presented in an artful and
visually appealing manner. Chefs may
use traditional techniques and innovative
approaches to showcase the natural
flavours and textures of the ingredients.
Interactivity: Omakase dining is an
interactive experience, with the chef
preparing and serving each dish directly to
the diner. This allows for a more personal
dining experience, as the chef may provide
insights into the ingredients, preparation
methods, and culinary traditions.
Omakase meals typically consist of multiple
courses, starting with lighter dishes and
progressing to more substantial offerings.
The progression of flavours and textures
is carefully curated to create a balanced
and memorable dining experience. The
Omakase experience offers diners the
opportunity to enjoy a culinary journey,
directly guided by the expertise and
creativity of the chef.
47

48

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

CAN ANYONE BECOME
A GREAT SUSHI CHEF?
“It’s not just about the craftsmanship, it is
something that expresses your own way of
life. It’s about the outcome, how the person
is facing sushi, rather than creating on a
decided shape. The emotion, the interaction
with your ingredients and your diner. That’s
equally as important.
“What are the qualities of a great sushi
chef? Apart from the obvious – cleanliness,
knife skills and so forth, when I get a new
apprentice, I want to see someone who is
humble, who is not afraid to make mistakes.
If someone comes to the kitchen and they
get everything right, straight away, they
cannot truly learn. We learn from mistakes,
and we learn from repetition. I almost look
for ‘clumsy’ - but I don’t suppose that is
translating well! When the person is clumsy,
in the end, because it takes time for the
person to learn, they shine better than the
person who could do it in one go”

WHAT IS NEXT FOR SUSHI
KANESAKA AT 45 PARK LANE?
“We want to get our second Michelin star,
and then a third” he laughs
“More importantly than that, I believe that the
story of great sushi can have a wider impact
on the world. As more people engage with
the experience and the sushi, they will learn
that sushi can help to change the world for
the better. We cannot make great sushi with
product from unclean waters, from seas
and climates that are being damaged. Great
produce requires a great environment – fresh
mountain airs, clean rivers and seas.

WHAT IS A SUSHI MASTER?
“The phrase sushi master is not used in
Japan. In Japan we would use the word like
sushi ‘shokunin’ which is more like sushi
craftsman or artisan, rather than master. It
doesn’t translate that easily, so, overseas,
we say sushi master – but that doesn’t fully
express the deeper meaning”

which was very fast. It was after 5 years of
apprenticeship, instead of eight. I had a lot
of passion. What would usually take 3 years,
I tried to learn in just one. Then I started my
own business five years later. I worked as an
independent for another 10 years and then
we became a company and began to open
other ventures”

“To become a sushi shokunin, I didn’t sleep! I
practised, I worked hard. I devoted myself to
the craft. I was just 23 when I was permitted
to serve customers as an individual,

“Time, dedication and devotion to the craft
underpin what can help you become a sushi
shokunin. But the title is a start-line, I am still
learning, even to this day”

“I also believe that by bringing the story and
experience of Sushi Kanesaka to a wider
audience, we can break down barriers when
it comes to racism. Interacting with one
another, sharing knowledge and experiences,
brings greater understanding and tolerance.
It helps bring people together.
My time with Chef Shinji and his team will
go down as one of my most memorable
interviews ever. I feel as though our 90
minutes has personally taught me so much.
I feel that having communicated through
broken English - through observing physical
reactions to questions, in particular how
Chef Shinji’s eyes light up when he talks
49

50

CHEF SHINJI KANESAKA

about his career, ambitions and training
to how his brow furrows when I ask if
European influences have made their
way into Japanese cuisine, as Japanese
cuisine influences some of our UK chefs
(“It can be terrible” he laughs “there is
one place shaving white truffle over sushi
back home. It doesn’t work, it’s horrible.
But I suppose they can add a lot more to
the price”) - that I somehow understand
him better than I might, should we have
been able to chat in the same mother
tongue. My whole experience has been
extraordinary, brilliant and fun.
Warm, welcoming, a wicked sense of
humour and a genuine love for his craft and
the team he calls family. Launching Sushi
Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane is far more than
a business transaction. For Chef Shinji, it is
about taking steps to help create a better,
more serene world.
“I don’t have books, or do television – but I
will make a movie, one day” he laughs, as
I stand up to say my farewells “The movie
will be about how great sushi can change
the world”
51

52

UNVEILING AT
THE RICH DELIGHTS OF

LAMB
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
OVER THE YEARS CLASSIC FINE FOODS HAS PRIDED ITSELF ON SOURCING THE BEST
PRODUCE FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND WHEN IT COMES TO FINDING WORLD
QUALITY LAMB, YOU CANNOT GO PAST THE MILK FED AXUIRA 40-DAY LAMB FROM
THE PYRENEES AND THE PREMIUM TASTING LUMINA LAMB FROM NEW ZEALAND.

TWO EXTREMELY UNIQUE PRODUCTS WITH OUTSTANDING FLAVOURS THAT ANY CHEF WOULD ENJOY HAVING ON THEIR
MENUS FOR THE ULTIMATE DINING EXPERIENCE.

BORN AND BREED IN RURAL NEW ZEALAND, OUR MEAT SPECIALIST
RICHARD SANDERS LEARNT THE FINE ART OF TRADITIONAL
BUTCHERY FROM THE AGE OF 15, WHICH LED HIM ON TO RUN HIS OWN
BUTCHERY AND DELI BY AGE 20 AND THEN CONTINUED IN THE TRADE
FOR THE NEXT 30 YEARS.
What’s your role at Classic Fine Foods?
Meat Category Manager and Master Butcher
What are your main responsibilities within your role?
Sourcing meats from around the world and with suppliers presenting
their brand, training staff and customers for their meat knowledge and
appreciation, working with customers on developing their menus and
improving their meat supply.
What do you like most about your role?
Knowing that we are delivering the highest quality products in the world
including Japanese and Australian Wagyu, USDA & Aussie Black Angus,
Dry Aged West Country Beef, Italian Veal, Iberico Pork, Premium Lamb,
Game and the best Beef from South America to the most passionate
and best Chefs.
53

With over 40 years of history, the Axuria Cooperative was founded
by dedicated shepherds in 1983. The company focus on promoting
local, natural, and humane lamb farming to produce the finest
Pyrenean milk-fed lamb on the market, highly prized for its exquisite
taste and texture.
Their exceptional lamb, favoured by top chefs worldwide, proudly
bears the ‘Label Rouge’ (Red Label) and IGP (Protected Geographical
Indication) design. They are the only milk-fed lamb in France to have
both accreditations, meaning Axuria has a guarantee of quality.
54

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

The season for milk-fed lamb is
between November to June. This
exclusive French milk-fed lamb is born
and raised on a single farm in the
Basque Valley of the Soule in Southwest
France, following thousand-year-old
traditions. The lambs are fed only on
their mother’s milk for a maximum of
45 days and received no other form of
nutrition such as antibiotic or hormonal
treatments. This gives the meat a unique
light colour and gentle odour not typical
of other lamb. Identification of the
animals with the breeder’s name and a
tracing document is available to ensure
total traceability of the meat.
The lambs are produced from local
ancestral breeds adapted to the
mountains. The three breads are blackheaded Manech, red-headed Manech
and Basco-Bearnaise.

In the kitchen with Yago Crego, Executive Chef
and Fabián Perez, Chef at Casa Cruz. Crego has
created a beautiful lamb dish, a mouthwatering
roast lamb shoulder, using Axuria with domino
potatoes, grilled cabbage, and three sauces:
romesco, horseradish cream and mustard.

“We've been using Axuria lamb for a long time
in Casa Cruz, many people here come just for
this dish. The quality of the lamb is stunning, for
that reason in Casa Cruz we like to cook such
an amazing and tasty product in a very rustic,
simple way. This way, people can try the real
flavour of the meat, which is the most important
thing in the end. The lamb is so tender it melts
in your mouth, leaving a delicate and full of
notes flavour.
We've always trusted Classic Fine Foods to
get some of our best products across the
company for their quality and consistency, and
the constant recommendations and customer
service their provide is always helpful and a
great support for us.” – Yago Crego, Executive
Chef at Casa Cruz.
We are always delighted to see and taste what our
customers make with ingredients we believe in.
55

At Classic Fine Foods we offer various
cuts of Axuria lamb, from the whole
carcase without the head to just the leg
or shoulder. Tender, light-coloured lamb
meat, with a juicy texture and delicate
flavour, this milk-fed lamb is ideal for
diverse cuisines, offering a low-calorie
and health-conscious option. French,
Mediterranean, Nordic or Asia, whatever
your cuisine, elevate your menus by
featuring Axuria products in your dishes.

56

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

Do you want to win a trip
to the Basque Country
with Axuria?
Calling all chefs! Do you think you have the most
beautiful and delicious milk-fed lamb dish on your
menu? We want to see it. To be in for a chance to
win a fantastic tip to the Pyrenees to visit Axuria,
all you have to do is share a picture on Instagram!
This is an exciting adventure and a unique
opportunity to enjoy a couple of days in the
mountain paradise where Axuria is based, to learn
and experience their artisan way of producing the
best quality milk-fed lamb.

SCAN THE QR CODE
TO READ THE FULL
TERMS & CONDITIONS.

The competition runs from February 1st to April
1st, 2024.

57

Lumina Lamb is one of the most highly sought after meat products in
the world. Over 15 years of selected breeding to search for the genetics
that gives lamb supreme intramuscular fat (marbling), along with a rich
grass-fed diet from the highlands of the South Island of New Zealand.
Finished for 30 days on chicory, Lumina Lamb is known as the Wagyu of
lamb across the world.
Lumina raise their lamb in New Zealand’s iconic high country, with only
16 carefully selected committed founding farmers raising the animals.
Lumina means prestige and authority in Maori and it is regarded as
‘food from heaven’.
58

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

59

The intramuscular fat they have discovered
by breeding sheep to be healthier and better
adapted to high country environments, has
significantly higher Omega-3 with a Wagyustyle marbling. This micro-marbling gives the
lamb a fresh lighter-bodied texture.
The colour of the meat is a deep pink through
to light red, whilst its fresh, lighter-bodied
texture is conveyed by its unique higher, but
lighter micro-marbled omega fats. The finish
is remarkably delicate and clean on the palate.
Because of its unique composition, it doesn't
behave like regular lamb during preparation
and cooking. It is more versatile, allowing you
to create like never before.
60

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

The lamb holds a special place in many religious traditions and represent the sacrifice. Often associated with family festivities especially
during major celebrations like Christmas, Easter, or other religious holidays. Its presence on the table is often synonymous with
conviviality, generosity and sharing. Lumina’s premium New Zealand lamb is the perfect star ingredient for you Easter menus. With
Classic Find Foods, enjoy this delicious taste of spring with our special offer. Contact your account manager to find out more.

Classic Fine Foods
Westway Estate, 18-20 Brunel Road, Park Royal, London W3 7XR
T: 020 7627 9666
E: sales@classicfinefoods.co.uk
W: www.classicfinefoods.co.uk
For more information contact our Meat Category Manager - richard.sanders@classicfinefoods.co.uk
Browse our products online on our website www.classicfinefoods-uk.com or scan the QR code

61

Words Claire Bosi
Camera courtesy of Farlam Hall

THERE WERE FEW
D RY E Y E S I N T H E
HOUSE. FOR THOSE

Desai

Service with a smile

Hrishikesh

W H O AT T E N D E D
O R W AT C H E D T H E
MICHELIN GBI 2024
REVEAL, WHEN
HRISHIKESH DESAI
W A S C A L L E D TO T H E
S TA G E TO C O L L E C T
HIS FIRST MICHELIN
S TA R F O R H I S C E DA R
T R E E R E S TA U R A N T AT
FARLAM HALL AFTER
JUST A FEW MONTHS
OF BEING OPEN, MANY
W E R E TO U C H E D A S
HIS VOICE BROKE
AND HE BECAME
VISIBLY MOVED. HIS
EMOTIONAL RESPONSE
WA S A C U L M I N AT I O N

In February 2023, it was announced that
Hrishikesh would be leaving the Gilpin Hotel
and joining Farlam Hall as Chef Patron. Having
joined the Gilpin in 2016, winning a Michelin
star for his flagship restaurant and opening
two further restaurants within the site, he felt
it was time for a new adventure. For Hrishi,
hospitality had been a dream since the tender
age of 4 “as a very young boy, I experienced
a five-star hotel in India. That’s how my love
started for the industry, because of what I
saw. I always said, from that moment, that
I wanted to run a hotel. But my position at
Gilpin couldn’t expand any further – it was
a family run hotel, and the family are very
62

invested in the day to day running of the
business, it is personal to them. I knew it
was time to move on and there were several
different opportunities. At one point there was
an opportunity in the Caribbean islands or the
Middle East. I was definitely looking further
afield – not at Cumbria!”
When Farlam Hall, nestled in the picturesque
countryside of Cumbria, was first brought
to his attention, Hrishi’s immediate reaction
was no. It was swapping like for like, and
he wanted more. But, together with Karen
Baybutt, former managing director of Gilpin
Hotel, they decided to drive up to visit “When

OF SEVERAL THINGS
– N O T L E A S T T H AT
H I S S TA R WA S B E I N G
P R E S E N T E D TO H I M
BY MICHEL ROUX JR
“AS A ROUX SCHOLAR
M Y S E L F , T H AT WA S
SUCH A SPECIAL
MOMENT”

63

64

HRISHIKESH DESAI

we visited for the first time, and came up the
drive, I was just like, right, this is perfect. As
soon as you step into the building there is a
calmness and elegance. There is no rush at
all. There is no spa, there are no stables –
what I saw was an opportunity to focus on
delivering pure hospitality excellence”
In 2019, the Grade II listed country house,
Farlam Hall had been bought by American
couple, Joseph Walter and Kathy Mares.
They had fallen in love with the place while
honeymooning there “Kathy and Joseph used
to come here for long periods of time. In 2019,
when they discovered that the place was up for
sale, it was an instant decision to buy it – purely
because they love it. Then came the pandemic,
which gave them an opportunity to embark
on a full refurbishment. The entire building
was given an incredible makeover, including
the 12 rooms and 6 cottages. For Joseph and
Kathy, Farlam Hall is about passion and that is
something I can relate to, very strongly”
Being US residents and only visiting the UK
twice a year meant the couple needed to
employ a team to run the place for them
“They had several different management
teams to get the job done. The dining room
had been awarded 2 AA rosettes, but it was
left to the individual chefs on that service to
do what they felt was right. There was no
control on food cost, there was no control
on the thought process of menus. I mean
no disrespect to the chef who was here
previously. The way the kitchen was designed
was with what knowledge the chef had”
Having been charmed by the building and
grounds of the 16th century house, the
conversations between Hrishi, Karen and the
owners began “I said to them, look, if you
want me to be your executive chef, that’s not
a problem. I can do that with my eyes closed.
But the confidence that I have taken from
my time in this industry, and my own dream,
was to do more. The kind of opportunity I
was looking for was to be involved with every
single aspect of a guests visit. To be a hotelier,
as well as a chef. And, you know, it’s been a
wonderful journey since 2023”
Together, as a team of two, every single
operational aspect falls to Karen and Hrishi
to deliver on “From my side” Karen adds
“obviously, the managing director role at
Gilpin was full on, to say the least. I think I was

sort of mentally and physically exhausted at
that point in time, having negotiated Covid
and all the disruption that came with it. I was
taking some time out – unsure what to do
next. Then I came with Hrishi to visit Farlam
Hall and fell in love with the place. No hot tubs,
no steam rooms, no saunas. We can focus on
what Hrishi’s good at, which is F&B. We can
make it a destination. I didn’t take too much
persuading after I saw the place”
Taking the reins at Farlam Hall, the first thing
Hrishi and Karen did was identify exactly
what it was they would concentrate on
“When we came in here, the first three pillars
that we put our full attention to were good
food, great wines and incredible hospitality”
Hrishi comments “This is what 2023 was
based on. We started working towards that,
making changes slowly and steadily. The
hotel never closed for a handover; it stayed
open throughout. There was so much to do in
February and March, we sort of looked at each
other, you know, ‘what are we getting into?!’
We inherited a team of 6 in the kitchen. Two
left, but four remain. The team could clearly
see that, when we came in, for the first two
months I didn’t do anything radical. In April we
began the changes, and by then, they could
clearly see which direction we were going.
It was a good journey for the chefs as well. I
took the time to get to know them, how the
kitchen worked, what systems needed to
be put in place. In between times, Karen & I
had visited places that I found inspirational
in terms of hospitality. I wanted Karen to
see where I thought the true essence of
gastronomy and hospitality lay”
One of these visits was to The Ritz, in Picadilly
“In terms of the F&B to be run in a certain way
for a hotel – afternoon tea, room service, food
and beverage, the restaurant - then the Ritz
is a very, very good example of how it’s done
impeccably. Of course, The Ritz is a massive
operation compared to Farlam Hall. But the
fundamentals are the same. The attention
to detail, the beauty of every tiny thing being
thought through and developed carefully.
There is a lot of work in everything they
do, but they make it look almost effortless.
They’re not afraid to showcase stunning
glassware, tableware, silver – all those things
that, historically, have been aligned with
gastronomy – yet many places have moved
away from. It’s done with simplicity, but it’s
done with lots and lots of class”
65

They also took a trip to Hrishi’s former
training ground, the Paul Bocuse Institute in
Lyon. “Early on in my education, I had studied
hotel management. I was keen to work front
of house. Then, in 1999, I won a scholarship
to train at the Institute, helped because my
mother had encouraged me to learn French.
I moved from India to France, and everything
became crystal clear. My passion for food
was ignited, and from that moment on I
knew I had to be a chef.
“When we went back to visit, I showed
Karen my teachers, and she saw the kind of
training that I’d had in France. Foundations,
fundamentals, discipline and flavour.
Gastronomy was my base. This is what I
wanted to create at Farlam Hall. My own
repertoire of dishes, using my home influences
of spicing and flavours. But everything true to
gastronomic principles and served with the
greatest hospitality experience”
66

HRISHIKESH DESAI

Finally, a trip to Denmark “ I had been lucky,
with the Roux Scholarship, to have been
able to visit both Sweden and Denmark.
Their approaches to sustainable living,
climate conscious businesses and simplicity
was something I had noticed and was keen
to revisit. Karen and I went back. The hotels
and the restaurants we ate in, and stayed
in, were adopting sustainability as the only
viable model of operation. Sustainability
is core. It’s first, not second nature. There’s
no alternative. Even the gym we went to,
the bikes were all wood. There was not a
single ounce of plastic anywhere. It was so
perfectly done”
“So, while we were working on our visions
for Farlam Hall, we had the chance to go and
see different places. To look for the positives,
or the negatives, and bring some inspiration
back with us – whether that was how we
wanted to do things, or how not to do things”

Hrishi admits to feeling “ever so nervous”
as he walked away from Gilpin Hotel “I was
walking away from everything I had worked
for. A wonderful place, a brilliant team and
the Michelin Star. I was never 100% sure that I
would get those things back”
Having interviewed Hrishi before when he
was at The Gilpin, I wanted to see a different
side to the chef. I had never seen his kitchen in
action, so I persuade Hrishi to let me loiter in
the kitchen for service “I am used to keeping
out of the way” I promise.
As you come up the driveway towards Farlam
Hall, you get the impression that it is not overly
huge, and as you enter through the doorway,
there are two very elegant drawing rooms
either side. This is where Karen, Hrishi and I sit
chatting before service starts. Before long, his
chefs arrive from the kitchen with a series of
snacks “everyone arriving here has this same

journey” Hrishi adds “It all begins with some
story telling of who I am and what my food is
about” and he begins to talk me through an
array of tiny dishes that have arrived.
“So first it’s all about the snacks. On the spoon
you have an olive. This olive casing is, as you
will recognise, white chocolate - but inside is
green olive, red peppers and cardamom pulp.
We eat it whole, one bite. It’s been dipped and
mixed with extra virgin olive oil, with a bit of
rock salt just to intensify the flavour.
“In this bamboo cone, you have Garbanzo
beans. It’s quite intense in chilli, so will be on
the spicier side. It is made with tomatoes,
onions and a tamarind glaze. This is a very
famous Indian street food.
“On the plate you have a cookie, filled with
duck liver parfait, quite classical flavours. Then,
on the wooden stand, we have a beef fritter.
When I was a kid, I used to go quite a lot to a hill
station called the Snowline India – we used to
have these spicy onion bhajis up there. Onion
and beef flavours always work well together,
so I said, why not bring the same principles
here and create a fritter.
“This is Pani Puri – another street food. Pani
means water, puri means puff. If you’re in India,
it will be mixed with mint, tamarind chutney

67

“Finally, in the bowl, is our version of a
very classic leek and potato soup. We have
just lightly set it. On top of that, you’ll find
poached haddock and then crispy leeks and
a bit of coriander”

parfait, or taking a classic vichysoisse and
interpreting it into something a bit modern.
The food Hrishikesh is delivering cannot be
replicated elsewhere – it is his private tale of
a young boy heading from India to France,
France to the UK, the UK to the French
Laundry in California and then back to the
UK that he shares with his guests at the
Cedar Tree. There can be no comparison.

I haven’t yet set foot in the kitchen, but as
Hrishi talks me through this presentation
of snacks you can see clearly how what
he is putting on the plate is his journey
through gastronomy. It is very personal.
He is taking memories, be it home cooked
comfort food or childhood street food
snacks and transforming them into Michelin
starred morsels. He is staying true to his
gastronomic training, showcasing the
beauty of creating a perfect duck liver

It is time for service to start, Hrishi leads me
away from the drawing room and only then
do you appreciate that Farlam Hall is actually
a very large building. We stop off first to
visit the restaurant, “Obviously, you can see
where the name comes from” Hrishi says
as he waves towards the gardens the dining
room looks over. There, in full splendour, is an
ancient Cedar of Lebanon tree, most probably
having grown there for hundreds of years. The
restaurant also looks over the parkland, the

and chickpea curry. What we have done is
we have brought Thai flavours to it and used
carrots. Because they’re intensely sweet.

68

HRISHIKESH DESAI

lake and the Victorian man-made lock, there
to regulate the flow of the water.
The 26-cover dining room is understated
elegance. When Hrishi first arrived, the layout
did not work for the room, and he has paid
careful consideration to the tables. Each
(perfectly draped) table faces toward the
centre of the room, and there is a minimalistic
approach to the place settings “One of the
things I picked up at The French Laundry
when I did my Roux Scholarship stage there,
was how to not over stimulate the dining
room. Clean, no unnecessary clutter, elegant.
Let guests focus on the food and enjoy the
hospitality – that’s what they are there for”
We head down to the kitchens, and I try to
keep out of the way by the pass. The kitchen
is fairly small, with an Athanor stove sitting
proud in the centre and the room very square

in shape. From his position opposite me at
the pass, Hrishi can see every section working
and. Also from his position, he can deliver
food to guests himself “I love being able to
take dishes into the dining room and present
them to guests – it’s very meaningful”
Service is smooth, and the atmosphere
between the brigade is super charged
and positive. There are no egos here, just
a massive amount of teamwork. Hrishi
encourages his chefs to talk me through
the dishes themselves and to chat freely
about their roles within the kitchen. We chat
about the source of his extraordinary-quality
seafood as he talks me through his scallop
dish “Scottish seafood – there’s nothing
better. We have the whole roast scallop, then
a scallop cannelloni which is filled with a
scallop tartare. To make the cannelloni you
must build a cream first, so the whole scallop
is cured in salt and sugar. After the salt, we
build them with charcoal powder and meat
glue. Then we put them under pressure. They
get frozen and then we slice, so that you get a
nice rectangle in which we fill a crisp shell. On
top of the cannelloni, there’s king’s caviar, a bit
of gel, some radish. It’s quite pretty”
The dish is not only pretty, but also incredibly
intricate and delicate – it packs a punch of
flavour. I am observed by the whole team,
some who have now been by Hrishi’s side
for years, as I taste the dish. Pretty soon, a
Halibut dish arrives on the pass for me to try
“On top of the Halibut, we’ve got jalapeno,
onions, a little bit of turnip puree around the
fish, saffron crisps and a saffron cream. Then
we’ve got a sauce that is made with sweet
turnip, so it’s just like an emulsion, that goes
well. To finish the plate, we’ve got jalapeno
dressing. This will bring the sweet and sour
flavours together. The sweet will make it very
classic. The whole idea is, when it all comes
together, it is technically very classically
French. But when you taste, it has subtle
flavours of India”
Next up is some local venison. Hrishi buys
from Liddlesdale Wildlife Management,
a team of professional deer stalkers who
specialise in sustainable, wild meat. Served
two ways, the plate has a charcoal roast
loin and a braised haunch. Just 3 miles from
Hadrian’s wall, the restaurant is just about
still in England – and the Scottish influence
is strong. With a great deal of skill, and a nod

to some humour, the chefs have created
a ‘Neeps and Tatties’ Dauphinoise. “The
braised haunch is served on the side. Khalil is
an Iranian preparation from the Middle East.
The way it is done is the meat, seasonings
and grains are cooked together. I guess a
variation of risotto. It’s the same principle
we have followed. We wanted a bit more
of a buttery flavour from the grain. So, we
have an emulsion on top of the braise. Then
there is the truffle brioche to go with it. It’s
quite decadent and indulgent – but again,
you can see the foundations of my CV there.
The cooking techniques are recognisably
influenced by Paul Bocuse”
While we are talking, the team pop up, now
and again, to chat through the prep for the
following day. The restaurant is heaving
tomorrow and there are things that must
be prepared a day in advance. This is a

very organised brigade, even on a steady
evening, they keep their heads down and put
themselves in a good place for tomorrow. A
Blood Orange and Mint pre-dessert arrives
in front of me “the mint is from our kitchen
garden, we had a bumper crop last year, so we
froze bags of it. We made the mint gel using
pectin and the colour is incredible”
The colour of this mint gel is so vividly green,
it is almost neon. Served simply with a blood
orange sorbet, it is the epitome of a palate
refresher “Simplicity” says Hrishi
“I always believed you should end with
chocolate” Hrishi laughs, as another plate
is put in front of me “But with chocolate
being fatty, you need something smooth
to go with it. A milk sorbet does the job, it
brings more moisture. But also, chocolate
needs a bit of texture, so hazelnut is put in
69

there. This is a chocolate delice. We put it in
a mold, freeze it and then glaze.
“That cream is namelaka, which is soft
mousse in Japanese. This one is caramelised
white chocolate that has been set afterwards
with cream. Finally, a vanilla panna cotta.
That’s dipped in orange. So, chocolate,
orange, hazelnut, and vanilla, that’s the whole
idea behind this plate”
While standing with Hrishi, as he is describing
the dishes to me, it is impossible not to see
his excitement – it’s palpable. I wonder if he
felt he had been holding himself back during
his time at the Gilpin? “What was holding

70

HRISHIKESH DESAI

me back, I think, was the freedom that I
needed. I wanted to break free this way and
that way. I didn’t want to go through so many
different channels to get changes done. Here,
I am Hrishikesh – I am a chef cooking the
food I always wanted to, creating the guest
experience I want to go alongside my food.
We don’t want to hold back anymore; we are
very ambitious here”
There were some nay-sayers, when Hrishi
decided to move “I was told that I would fail,
which is hard to hear. But I thought to myself,
I’ve done so much work. I put my personal
health, life, career, family, everything on the
back burner, why would you say that?

“So, when somebody says that to you - it
drives you to prove a point. Since starting
here, I’ve never looked back. I said to myself
– no, I vowed to myself - that we would
cook the food we wanted and build an
audience for it”
Service has come to an end and the kitchen
clean down is in full swing. Hrishi gives me a
guided tour of some incredible outbuildings
he has firm plans for. As we walk out of
the kitchen, we pass a notice board and
Hrishi stops to stare at it. When I follow his
gaze, I see the board awash with cards of
congratulations from all over the world. Multi
Michelin starred chefs, global culinary icons,

have written to congratulate the team, as
have loyal fans, regular diners of the chef
“I can’t quite believe it, when I see this. It
makes me a bit emotional every time. I have
received so much love and support from this
incredible industry. I am so humbled by it all”
I ask whether he now considers himself a
hotelier, chef patron or chef. He laughs and
thinks out loud “Well, Michel Roux once said
to me, you are not a chef until your peers call
you chef. I would love to be called a hotelier,
but I won’t ever call myself that. If, one day,
my peers refer to me as a hotelier, that will
make me a very happy man”

ON HIS FIRST EVER MICHELIN
STAR AT GILPIN IN 2016
“Oh god” he laughs “That was a phone call
that could have gone horribly wrong. I was
cleaning my dry stores, and a phone call
came in for me. On of my chefs said, ‘there’s
someone called Rebecca on the phone for
you’. I thought it was just another agency
trying to get me to take some chefs and I
didn’t need any. I said to the chef ‘just tell
her we are okay for chefs; we don’t need
anymore’. So, he did just that.
“This Rebecca was insistent. She replied to
my chef “well, that’s great to hear, but I do
really need to speak with Hrishikesh”. My
chef came back saying this Rebecca woman
really needed to speak with me, so I took the
cordless phone from him and said “hello, this
is Hrishikesh, how can I help you?”
“Hi Hrishikesh, this is Rebecca Burr from the
Michelin guide” the voice on the end of the
line said
“I did not move until that conversation was
over” Hrishi laughs “The connection was
working, and it didn’t always in the dry store.
I could hear her clearly; I do not want to move
from that spot, I barely breathed. She said,
“We have had very good meals with you in

this recent year and we would like to invite
you to the Michelin GBI reveal in London”
“When she went to say goodbye, I had to ask
her ‘is this really Rebecca Burr’ I was worried
it could be a hoax - she chuckled and she said
‘yes, this is really Rebecca’

ON HIS FIRST STAR FOR THE
CEDAR TREE AT FARLAM HALL
IN 2024
“The invitation came just four days before the
event”
“I can see why they [Michelin] do that because
they don’t want everybody to start gossiping
about who has what, and who doesn’t. For me,
it started about three weeks before the event.
You know how chefs are, ‘Did you get the invite?’
‘Did he/she/they get an invite?’ The chefs gossip
hits fever pitch and you think you know who is
going, and who isn’t going. I had nothing at all. I
thought maybe this was not my year”
“Then, I was in Carlisle, giving a speech in front
of 26 different women. I saw an email pop
up and I saw that it had been quarantined.
Normally, when it is a quarantine email, I
always delete it. For some reason, I decided
to look at this one. It was my invitation to the
2024 reveal”
71

“I was hopeful, but not certain. I felt nervous in
the bar before the ceremony. Could it be that
I was invited because of my previous star?
There were no guarantees. But one thing I
could guarantee, was that if the Cedar Tree
was going to be awarded its first star – I had
to have my team there. The star would be as
much about them, as it was about me. So, I
booked them a suite upstairs at the Midland
Hotel. There were 8 of them watching the
reveal live from the suite – then I smuggled
them into some celebrations afterwards!”

ON THE FUTURE
“We started with three pillars – the food, the
wines and the hospitality. Now we have added
three more pillars to focus on – sustainability,
wellness and indulgence. Farlam Hall sits at
the very centre, and over the next few years
we will work on our pillars.
“When it comes to wellness, I just think
it’s a responsibility, if you can, to be more
considerate when creating dishes. I am not
talking about diet or health food – just good
food. We are feeding people, and we should
do that as well as we can. For me, coming
from India and cooking with spices a lot, what
I found is that I don’t use stocks. Our sauces
are purely based on vegetable products, it’s
all about infusing and cooking the vegetables

and then applying the techniques of French
cuisine and then passing them several times
to extract the flavour. What we discovered is
that any sauce can create so many different
vegetarian and vegan dishes.
“Cauliflower is a very good example. It
features on one of our signatures, a dish we
haven’t changed for a long time. Every time a
guest eats it, they’re like, ‘oh my God, is there
any cream in the sauce?’ But there’s nothing,
there’s not one single ounce of animal
product. That feedback triggered the notion
that I have been applying certain principles of
Ayurveda to my cooking. I use food products
in such a way that they maintain their flavour,
at the same time they will give the indulgence
mark, they taste delicious. We marry them
together. But let’s put it this way, the chocolate
dish on the menu – there’s not much wellness
in that, it is pure indulgence! It’s about balance
and doing good where you can”
“Wellness isn’t just the food. It’s in our
surroundings. Look where we are, surrounded
by nature, fresh air, water and hills. The
interiors here are decorated to instil a sense of
calm and luxury. We grow so much lavender
that when we do our turn-down service in the
guest rooms, we leave a bag of dried lavender
on the pillows – not a chocolate.

“We have an incredible kitchen garden, and
a head gardener Penny. The garden is not a
part of our dining experience, though guests
can walk around and visit, should they want
to. I suppose it does the job that a walled
kitchen garden would have done for a
stately home years ago – it supplies us with
fresh, organic, natural produce. I work with
Penny on the planning, we use heritage
varieties of vegetables, because they are
suited to the climate here. I am not that
interested in growing pretty stuff just to look
72

HRISHIKESH DESAI

pretty – I want good, flavourful, interesting
vegetables grown and harvested with care”
“There is no end to how far businesses
can go with sustainability and a green
sustainable star from Michelin is something
I am working toward. We have changed a
lot in the hotel already, but there is still a
lot to do. From a chef’s perspective, I fully
research each and every supplier I buy
from. I have just come back from visiting
Cumbrian Wagyu, which is 20 minutes from

here. I visited, and we went through the
farm’s entire history. I just wanted to know
every single detail of it before we commit
to it or not. How the animals are treated,
what they are fed, how they are killed, how
the farm operates – it is important, and a
duty, to do a deep dive into our suppliers.
We have done the same with our local mill
and with our other meat suppliers. We
don’t accept any single use packaging with
deliveries, we compost and keep a close
check on food waste and energy usage”

“Indulgence. That means all the senses.
Sight, sound, taste, hear and touch. We want
our guests to feel fully looked after and
indulged during their stay, whether that’s
the flowers from the garden in their rooms,
the romance of the setting of the hotel and
gardens or the meal they are eating that
evening. We do a lot of staff training, so
everyone is working towards the same goal
of delivering an unforgettable hospitality
experience. The indulgence at Farlam Hall is
ever evolving”
73

JERSEY ROYALS
March welcomes the first of the season early Jersey Royals, grown in
the light, well drained soils of Jersey by the Rabet family. The Jersey
based Rabet brothers have been farming their whole lives. Their
father started farming their land over 60 years ago and the potatoes
they seed today are the same their father started with. Gathering
seaweed from the coastline, they spread it on the fields as a natural
fertiliser, adding a sweet & salty taste meaning that you should not
need to season these when cooking. Each potato is treated with the
utmost respect, hand picked and hand graded in the field, to protect
the skin and flavour underneath.

74

ASPARAGUS
The first bunches of early British asparagus, grown in polytunnels by
fourth-generation farmers the Chinn family in the Wye Valley, have
already arrived at Wellocks HQ - kicking off the asparagus season earlier
than last year!
The light, sandy soil and south-facing slopes of the meandering Wye
Valley capture the earliest spring sunlight, creating a microclimate that
is ideal for producing some of the earliest asparagus in the UK. This
brilliantly green asparagus is hand-harvested and hyro-cooled to 2°C
within the hour to preserve its freshness and flavour.
Later this month we are expecting the arrival of the first outdoor
asparagus from Wye Valley and the Spilman family in Thirsk, North
Yorkshire.
The Spilman family has been growing asparagus for well over 10
years and is used by some of the best chefs and restaurants across
the country. All of their asparagus is planted by hand in May and
cropped two years later. The perfectly sandy soil on their farm,
combined with the care with which they plant and harvest the
asparagus by hand, is what makes their asparagus stand out from
the crowd. Once the asparagus is ready, it is all picked by hand and
carried in baskets straight to the packhouse, where it is sorted, cut,
and prepared while it is fresh. It is then bundled ready for sale the
same day, meaning that it is delivered to your doorstep within 48
hours of being picked

BRITISH STRAWBERRIES
The New Forest Fruit Co. Are growers of the UK’s earliest,
sweetest soft fruit. Situated between the Solent and the New
Forest National Park, they have the ideal microclimate for
growing some of the best strawberries in the UK. 100% of
their strawberries are grown on a ‘table top’ system, opting to
move away from soil grown strawberries to substrate grown
alongside wet probe technology that monitor the substrate
moisture and EC levels, as well as other technology to support
the production of high quality strawberries.

ITALIAN PEAS & BROAD BEANS
Coming into season we will have brilliantly green and deliciously
sweet Italian peas, specially selected for their fresh grassy flavour and
consistent quality, and stunning broad beans delivered in their pods to
preserve their delicious flavour.

WILD GARIC
We have already welcomed a limited quantity of early season wild garlic,
but as we move into the main season it will become more abundant,
and stronger in flavour.
75

Connect with the chef and
restaurant community at

CONNECT. LISTEN. DISCOVER

HRC 2024

Visitors can expect an immersive dive into
the future of hospitality, offering invaluable
networking opportunities, a chance to explore
the very latest trends, and a firsthand look at
new innovations in foodservice.

Goodwin-Allen adds: “I’m excited to be joining
HRC as Chef Ambassador for 2024 and look
forward to networking with the chef community
and discussing the latest trends and challenges
in the world of hospitality.”

With sections covering hospitality tech,
foodservice, furniture, interiors & tableware, and
professional kitchen equipment, visitors to HRC
can source anything needed to elevate their
business offering and customer experience.

The Vision Stage will also be hosting the awards
ceremony for the inaugural World Catering
Technology Awards, in partnership with FoodBev
Media, which recognise the innovative suppliers
changing the face of catering and streamlining
processes front and back-of-house.

The Vision Stage, designed by Harp Design, will
see a packed programme of content across the
three days of the show, with speakers including
UKHospitality CEO Kate Nicholls OBE, HRC Chef
Ambassador Lisa Goodwin-Allen and futurist
Simon Stenning.
Stenning comments: “HRC has always been
an important event in all our calendars, so I
am looking forward to being there on all three
days, to see all the new and latest products
on display, and to meet up with clients,
colleagues and friends. I am very pleased to
be presenting foresight from our latest Future
Foodservice report – 2030Vision – with trends,
developments and shifts in the market over the
next six years. It will be a great week.”
76

On the TechX stage, HRC has partnered with Tech
on Toast to deliver sessions throughout the three
days of the show focussed on building effective
tech stacks to make life easier for hospitality
teams and elevate customer experience.
Tech on Toast Founder & CEO Chris Fletcher
comments: “We are delighted to be partnering
with HRC for the biggest hospitality trade show
in March 2024. Tech on Toast exists to support
operators navigate the challenges of buying and
managing hospitality technology.
“HRC has stood at the forefront of innovation
for 88 years and we are delighted to play our
part in supporting digital innovation as the

industry enters a new era of growth driven
by technology, we look forward to meeting &
supporting all who visit next year.”

Chef HQ
This year’s event will see the return of Chef
HQ, curated by Chef Publishing, a stage, demo
kitchen and networking area dedicated to
inspirational chefs and culinary innovation.
Chef & Restaurant Magazine Editor Claire Bosi
says: “Chef Publishing are thrilled and excited
to bring back Chef HQ to HRC this March.
Expect some incredible demos from some of
the UK’s most exciting chefs, some brilliant ‘in
conversation’ pieces on our discussion stage
and a very lively social networking celebration
at the end of each day from 3.30pm.
“We have several surprises in store during the
three days, so please don’t forget to register
for your ticket and come join in on the fun. Chef
HQ is your space!”
Chef HQ 2024 will include sessions including
an interview with the Pierre Koffmann, one
of the most respected and decorated chefs in
the industry, plus Adam Handling MBE, Chef
at Frog by Adam Handling, will be joined by

THE HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND CATERING
SECTOR IS SET TO DESCEND ON EXCEL
LONDON ON 25-27 MARCH FOR THE
UPCOMING EDITION OF HRC, THE
ULTIMATE BUSINESS EVENT FOR THE UK
HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY.

Gastronomixs to create a masterpiece in an
exclusive live demo.
Simon Hulstone, Chef Proprietor at The
Elephant, will be taking to the stage to discuss
how the restaurant became the first in Torquay
to be awarded a Michelin Star, plus Ioannis
Grammenos, Meatologist and Executive Chef
at The Hippodrome Casino, will be discussing
The World’s Best Steak.
Adam Smith, Head Chef at Woven, will be
taking part in a behind-the-scenes session on
what it’s like being on Great British Menu, and
comments: “Entering Great British Menu took
me out of my comfort zone and away from my
brigade. It was a wholly new experience for
me. Join me at Chef HQ at HRC on 25 March
as we chat all about my time on the show and
share some insights and stories from behind
the scenes.”
Chef Mark Sargeant will be sitting down with
National Chef of the Year’s David Mulcahy
to discuss the importance of industry
competitions and supporting the next
generation of talented chefs.
Sargeant comments: “I have long been a
supporter of the competition circuit - especially
when it comes to younger chefs. I am looking
forward to joining David Mulcahy on the ‘In
Conversation’ stage at Chef HQ at HRC to chat
through my own experiences of competing
and why I feel all young chefs should take the
opportunity to stretch themselves through
culinary competitions”
Tom Shepherd, Chef Patron at Upstairs by
Tom Shepherd, says: “Truly looking forward
to being the opening demo at Chef HQ at HRC
this March. Sharing my stories and experiences
with peers in such a fun, relaxed environment,
surrounded by some amazing culinary stars
and future generations of chefs will be a
memorable moment. Come along and join us!”

International Salon Culinaire
For over 100 years, International Salon Culinaire
has remained one of the most prestigious chef
competitions in the world. The competition
has been a platform for chefs of all levels,
from ambitious young chefs to experienced
professionals who have already established
themselves in their culinary careers.
Over 1,000 chefs are set to compete in this year’s
event, in competitions across the Live Theatre,
the Skills Theatre, Salon Display and Sugarcraft.
New for 2024 is the Australian Wagyu Beef
competition in partnership with Meat &
Livestock Australia, Junior and Senior pasta
competitions in partnership with Dell’Ugo
Foods and an evolution of Tilda Chef Team of
the Year, in partnership with the Craft Guild of
Chefs, which will challenge competing chefs to
focus on using ‘waste’ or by-products to create
delicious dishes.
Jo Witchell, Commercial Foodservice Marketing
Manager at Tilda: “It’s very, very exciting to
judge the Tilda Team Chef of The Year Award for
the fifth time, although always daunting for me
amongst so many amazing, fabulous, talented
chefs on both the competing and judging side!”

Returning challenge Pub Chef of the Year
will be partnering with Essential Cuisine to
ask chefs to create an outstanding pie dish,
while Craft Guild of Chefs Team of the Year in
conjunction with Waitrose & Partners will be
asking chefs to develop a delicious bowl food
menu. The competition has also welcomed
Oatly as a partner for an all-new plant-based
challenge.
The Skills Theatre will allow aspiring and
student chefs to demonstrate their skills in live
competition and provide the perfect platform
to showcase their talents and refine their skills
essential for their career growth. In Salon Display,
chefs will be challenged to construct a visually
beautiful plate and put their creativity to the test.
Salon Chef Director Steve Munkley comments:
“Chefs are in more demand than ever, with the
industry crying out for new recruits. HRC and
Salon Culinaire give us, the ‘cheffing’ industry,
the opportunity to shine and show off our
talents, encouraging others to join and make
us stronger in the long term.”
To find out more about everything happening
at this year’s event, and to register for your
complimentary trade ticket, visit hrc.co.uk.
77

78

nordium
Where aesthetics and
comfort meet durability
and reassurance.

79

A S T H E WA R M E R
W E AT H E R B E G I N S TO
ARRIVE ACROSS THE
U K , B U S I N E S S OW N E R S
B E G I N TO O P E N U P
THEIR OUTDOOR
DINING OR DRINKING
AREAS ONCE MORE.
THIS EXTRA SPACE
FOR COVERS CAN
SIGNIFICANTLY AFFECT
T H E B U S I N E S S TA K I N G S
OVER THE SPRING,
SUMMER AND AUTUMN
M O N T H S . B U T H OW
DOES YOUR OUTDOOR
D I N I N G D E C O R M A R RY
WITH YOUR INTERIOR
S T Y L E ? H OW C A N Y O U
MAKE YOUR GARDEN,
B A L C O N Y O R P AT I O
AS WELCOMING AND
C O M F O R TA B L E A S
INSIDE – IS THERE
SUCH A THING AS
PREMIUM OUTDOOR
F U R N I T U R E T H AT
DOESN’T COST THE
EARTH? WE MEET UP
W I T H N O R D I U M TO
FIND OUT A BIT MORE.
80

“Born from a hunger to enhance hospitality, Nordium are driven by a passion for delivering
unparalleled quality outdoor furniture. Founded on the principles of craftsmanship,
innovation, and customer satisfaction, we have established ourselves as a trusted provider of
premium furnishings to hotels, resorts, restaurants, and other establishments.
“Our commitment to excellence begins with the materials we require. We meticulously
select only the finest components, metals and fabrics to ensure durability, functionality, and
aesthetic appeal in every piece we create. Each item in our extensive catalogue undergoes
rigorous quality control measures to meet the highest standards of craftsmanship and
performance.
“We understand that the hospitality industry demands furniture that not only elevates the
guest experience but also withstands the rigors of constant use. That’s why we work with
dedicated teams of designers, engineers and artisans to collaborate closely to ensure
furniture is designed and manufactured that strikes the perfect balance between style,
comfort, and durability. From sleek and modern designs to statement pieces our diverse range
of products caters to every aesthetic preference and functional requirement.

81

“Restaurant furniture must meet safety and regulatory standards, including fire standards,
accessibility requirements, and health regulations. All our furniture complies with relevant
laws and guidelines to maintain a safe and welcoming environment for your guests.
“Our extensive range of outdoor furniture is constructed to withstand the vagaries of British
weather with contract grade upholstery and compliant engineering. We understand the need
to withstand heavy daily use and frequent cleaning. Only sourcing sturdy construction and
durable finishes will ensure longevity. All of this maintains a safe and welcoming environment
for your guests.
“We love the outdoors, thrive in it, and so can you. Beyond crafting exceptional furniture,
we prioritise sustainability and environmental responsibility in our operations. We source
materials from certified suppliers and ensure eco-friendly manufacturing practices to
minimise carbon footprints. we strive to reduce waste and conserve natural resources without
compromising on quality or performance.

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“At Nordium, we believe that our success is measured not only by the quality of our products
but also by the satisfaction of our clients. We pride ourselves on building long-lasting
relationships with our customers, providing personalised service, and offering tailored
solutions to meet their specific needs.
“Whether you’re outfitting a boutique hotel, beer garden, a luxury resort, or a bustling
restaurant, you can trust Nordium to deliver superior quality furniture that enhances the
ambiance, functionality, and overall experience of your establishment.
“Experience the difference that exceptional craftsmanship and unwavering dedication to
quality can make with Nordium – your partner in hospitality furnishings excellence”
Come and experience Nordium furniture at Chef HQ during HRC 25th-27th March,
ExCel, London, Stand H739

Click here to view the full
product catalogue

www.nordium.uk
info@nordium.uk

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ABSOLUTE
FRESHNESS
& INCREDIBLE

TASTE
WITH CLASSIC HARVEST BY CLASSIC FINE FOODS

85

Ivan Martin, Fruit &
Vegetable Category
Manager
“At Classic Harvest our dynamic team plays a pivotal role in our
organization’s success. As Fruit and Vegetable Category Manager, I lead
strategic initiatives, ensuring our product categories align with market
demands and business objectives. Justyna, our Business Development
Expert, focuses on expanding our market presence and fostering
key partnerships. Malgorzata, our Senior Buyer, brings her seasoned
expertise to procure high-quality products, while Jade, our Junior Buyer,
collaborates in sourcing and maintaining vendor relationships. Andrew,
our Night buyer at New Covent Garden Market, ensures a fresh and
diverse supply from all the market traders as we strive for one hundred
percent order completion. Together, we are dedicated to providing
top-notch produce and driving growth of our business through effective
category management, procurement and strategic business efforts.

86

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

As a cohesive team, we operate at the intersection of precision and
quality to deliver the finest fresh produce consistently to our clients.
Leveraging our strategic presence in Rungis market in Paris, we
collaborate with some of the best growers globally, ensuring a diverse
and premium selection for our customers. Our dedicated picking staff,
well-versed in all facets of fresh produce. Meticulously curate each
order, guaranteeing the highest standards. With a national reach, our
hubs facilitate seamless delivery to almost every corner of the UK.
Taking advantage of robust national transport links, we go the extra
mile- literally – by collecting fresh produce directly from our handpicked suppliers. This ensures not only the freshness of our products but
also emphasizes our commitment to sustainability. From farm to our
London warehouse to your kitchen, our team is dedicated to delivering
excellence in every aspect of the supply chain, offering a curated
selection of the very best from around the world.” – Ivan Martin, Fruit &
Vegetable Category Manager at Classic Fine Foods.
87

The season for the outstanding Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb from E. Oldroyd
& Sons runs from early January until March. The first batch of these
beautiful rhubarbs was available from 11th January, directly from the farm
to our warehouse into your kitchen. At Classic Harvest, we aim to give
chefs more than one solution to their menus, which is why we offer two
options, a 15-35mm Rhubarb and a delicate 15-20mm Rhubarb.
E. Oldroyd & Sons Ltd, are producers and packers of highquality Yorkshire forced rhubarb and fruit. The family has five
generations of experience in Yorkshire forced rhubarb production and
is regarded as leaders in their field, being highly skilled in the production
of this highly specialist crop, which is part of the local heritage. Oldroyd’s
farm first became a tourist attraction in 1997, initially designed for group
bookings. They became so popular that eventually a whole Festival was
based around the tours so that individuals and families can also see the
forced rhubarb growing in the dark being harvested by candlelight, and
learn the incredible history associated with this plant, and the health
benefits forced rhubarb and field rhubarb can bring to us all.

BEAUTIFUL
YORKSHIRE
RHUBARB
Classic Harvest will be bringing you the
very best Yorkshire Rhubarb again this
season. Working alongside our trusted
grower, E. Oldroyd & Sons, we will
be bringing you two grading options
direct from the farm. Timperley Early is
predominantly the main variety.

88

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

STUNNING BRITISH RHUBARB
FROM WYE VALLEY
To extend the season of British Rhubarb, Classic Harvest partners with a
second grower in the UK that offers stunning Rhubarb from March to June.

Available at Classic Harvest in a new 5kg pack
size with a handy lid to keep the light out of the
box and the freshness in. Wye Valley Rhubarb
is forced (grown in the absence of light) to
deliver the sweet and tender bright pink stems
that our customers love.
Wye Valley Produce is grown by fourthgeneration farmers, the Chinn family,
in the Wye Valley, near Ross-on-Wye in
Herefordshire. They grow the best quality
asparagus, rhubarb, blueberries, fine beans
and peas. The light sandy soil and southfacing slopes of the meandering Wye Valley
capture the earliest spring sunlight and create
a microclimate that is perfectly formed to
produce some of the earliest, and the best
produce in the UK.
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DELICIOUS WHITE FRENCH
ASPARAGUS
We’ve been working with the growers from Aspa for a few years now to
source the best, the freshest and most delicious white French asparagus.
Coming straight from the farm, rather than the market, and straight from
Classic Fine Foods to you at the best price.

White asparagus are different to green
asparagus in one thing, they don’t have
chlorophyll (the green in plants that helps
generate oxygen in the photosynthesis process)
because they are grown and picked before they
peek through the soil, and they never see the
sun.
This makes them sweeter and more tender
than green asparagus. They have a much
shorter season so order now and enjoy them
while you can!
Aspa have a unique means of production
in France. Their fields are situated in the
ancient bed of the Loire River: a deep, sandy
soil suitable for the production of asparagus.
They heat all their crops with a buried heating
system, enabling them to cultivate very early
in the year, with production starting midJanuary. The heating system helps them have
an exceptional quality production, with white
tender asparagus without fibres. Taste it, you’ll
see the difference!
All of their asparagus is harvest by hand at the
beginning of the day and immediately washed,
cooled and sorted. Classic Harvest offers three
grades to our chefs, measured by the width of
the base: 16-22mm, 22mm plus and 28mm plus.
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CLASSIC FINE FOODS

FINEST BRITISH
ASPARAGUS
FROM WYE
VALLEY
Based In Herefordshire, Wye Valley
Produce began growing asparagus in
2003 but has since expanded to include
rhubarb, blueberries, fine beans, and peas.

The light, sandy soil and south-facing slopes of the Wye Valley capture the earliest
Spring sunlight and create a microclimate that is perfectly formed to product some
of the earliest, and the best produce in the UK. It is their attention to freshness and
quality, as well as the natural advantage of their location which makes Wye Valley
Produce stand out from the rest.
All their asparagus are hand-harvested and hydro-cooled down to 2oC within the
hour. This ensures that they retain maximum freshness and flavour. The harvest is
available from March to July.
At Classic Harvest we aim to give chefs more than one option of the same product.
We have four grades of the Wye Valley English Asparagus: 14-18mm, 18-22mm,
+24mm and Class 2 graded for soups.

91

KOFFMANN’S POTATOES FOR CHEF’S
Established in 2018 by siblings Simon Martin and Claire, along with Claire’s husband, renowned three-Michelin starred chef
Pierre Koffmann, The Food Heroes began as a specialist British potato supplier for UK restaurants.

Their aim was to bring the best quality British potatoes, but with a
formidable French-Master-Chef flavour. After building an established
business for its frozen potato products within the Koffmann’s Speciality
Foods brand, which distinguishes potatoes by usage not variety, the
company decided to expand and launch a flurry of new products like
carrots and parsnips.
With a commitment to quality and ethics, The Food Heroes continue to
innovate and cater to a growing clientele. They source their potatoes
from selected growers and have had a joint venture with potato farming
group Pride of Anglia Growers since 2021, working with producers in key
UK growing areas.
We have a large selection of the Koffmann’s range at Classic Harvest,
with our favourites being their frozen chips in sizes 10mm and 19mm,
and their frozen mash potato with butter. The range of Frozen Frites are
triple blanched and double fried for that unbelievable taste!

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CLASSIC FINE FOODS

WHAT’S NEXT IN SEASON?

SCAN QR CODE TO
DOWNLOAD OUR
SEASONAL CALENDAR.

Available from early April, we have Richardson’s hand-picked Jersey Royals, in
three different gradings. With an exquisite flavour and creamy texture, these are a
favourite among food enthusiasts. Get ready for summer with the best soft fruits
in the country, we’ll have Raspberries, Strawberries and Cherries from our trusted
partner Jeremy Price from Oakchurch Farm available from early June.
Want to discover and enjoy the freshest and highest quality seasonal produce?
Scan the QR code to download our Classic Harvest Seasonal Calendar.
At Classic Fine Foods, we understand respecting seasonality of produce is vital. In order to inspire chefs to develop seasonal menus, we have
created a menu planner showing when fruit and vegetables are at their best.
93

MOVERS & SHAKERS

Image Eleonora Boscarelli Photography

Chef Rey Lopez joins
Chef Patron Santiago
Lastra and the team
at KOL as Head Chef
P R E V I O U S L Y S O U S C H E F AT
ELEVEN MADISON PARK IN
NEW YORK, REY WORKED WITH
C H E F DA N I E L H U M M F R O M
SEPTEMBER 2019, HELPING THE
T E A M E V O LV E T H E R E S TA U R A N T
TO T H E V E G A N C O N C E P T T H AT
OPENED IN JUNE 2021.

Growing up surrounded by Mexican traditions and culture, Rey has an
innate understanding of the tastes and flavours of Mexican cuisine and
the dishes that have helped celebrate it globally. Rey says,” I’m delighted
to join the team at KOL. Santiago’s perspective on celebrating Mexico
through British ingredients is such a unique concept for the cuisine, and
I’m looking forward to working with him. “

Satiago Lastra opened the doors to his first restaurant, KOL in the Autumn
of 2020 after a career that saw him travel the globe. KOL, named after the
Spanish for Cabbage “It represents something that can be undervalued”
says Santiago “yet given attention, can be magical” very quickly became a
chef’s, reviewers and guidebook favourite – with the restaurant sitting at
no. 23 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and with 1 Michelin Star. KOL’s
cuisine celebrates Mexico’s rich cultural tastes, aromas, and textures with
meticulously sourced seasonal British produce. A contrast of elegance and
balance that uniquely interprets Britain through a Mexican lens, melding
the diverse landscapes and seas of both.

94

Image Charlie McKay

Image Charlie McKay

Santiago added “I am very excited to welcome Rey to the team. His
background, ethos and experience make him the perfect fit for KOL. We
can’t wait to see what we can accomplish together.”

95

Image Rebecca Dickson

Image Rebecca Dickson

Image Rebecca Dickson

MOVERS & SHAKERS

Camera courtesy of Umbel Restaurant Group

Mark McCabe
appointed as Head
Chef of Henrock
by Simon Rogan
MARK MCCABE HAS BEEN
TA K E N O N A S T H E N E W H E A D
CHEF OF HENROCK BY SIMON
ROGAN, THE LAKE DISTRICT
R E S TA U R A N T S I T U AT E D
W I T H I N L I N T H WA I T E H O U S E
HOTEL, WHICH OVERLOOKS
WINDERMERE.

96

Mark’s appointment at Henrock, which sits alongside Simon Rogan’s
other Lake District restaurants L’Enclume, Rogan & Co and Aulis in
nearby Cartmel, follows four years as Chef Owner of The Ethicurean
restaurant in Bristol before the restaurant closed its doors in the
autumn. Prior to his time at The Ethicurean, Mark was part of the
team at Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s River Cottage in Dorset, after
training in kitchens in Paris as well as Lancashire.

aims to use locally sourced ingredients. As an extension of this ethos,
Mark will work with Our Farm manager John Rowland and Our Farm
Head Chef Liam Fitzpatrick, to grow and preserve a selection of tropical
plants and exotic species. Mark takes over the position from chef Cillian
Hennessy, who will step into the role as Aulis Development Chef. Cillian
will be in charge of researching and refining new dishes for Aulis and our
restaurants in The Lakes.

At Henrock, the menu takes inspiration from Simon’s travels worldwide,
particularly to his restaurants in Hong Kong, Malta and Thailand, but

Whilst Mark and the Simon Rogan team will oversee the day-to-day
running of Henrock restaurant, the hotel’s breakfast and all-day

97

food offering, to include the more informal bar and conservatory
menu, will be overseen separately by Gerald Van Der Walt, the Head
Chef of Linthwaite House Hotel which is part of the Leeu Collection
of hotels.
Complementing Gerald’s menu is a cocktail list offering classic and
premium drinks curated by Linthwaite’s resident mixologist. A small
selection of Henrock’s own cocktails will also be available to guests
dining in the restaurant, created by Andreas Grammatikopoulos,
who brings an element of his native Greece to the drinks whilst using
ingredients from Our Farm.
Mark McCabe, who is originally from Scotland, is preparing to bring a
wealth of experience and sustainability-minded ethos to the Henrock
kitchen honed during his time at The Ethicurean, which received a
Michelin Green Star under his stewardship in 2021. With a strong
passion for regenerative farming, Mark is also a former finalist of the
Craft Guild of Chefs National Chef of the Year and reached the judging
chamber in the 2023 series of BBC’s Great British Menu. On being
appointed Head Chef of Henrock he commented:
98

“As a chef I have always been compelled and inspired by nature,
seasonality and sustainability and so the Simon Rogan way of
sourcing and cooking aligns so closely with my own personal ethos,
it feels like the perfect continuation of the work I have dedicated my
career to so far. Naturally, I am most looking forward to working with
the ingredients sourced directly from Simon’s farm - it’s a true luxury
to have access to produce of this quality and diversity, not to mention
being in one of the most beautiful areas of the country. I can’t wait to
be a part of the Henrock brigade”
Simon Rogan MBE commented:
“Mark is not only a highly skilled chef but following his experience
in kitchens which also harness such a strong connection to where
its food is grown, means he has developed a true understanding
of growing and an appreciation for nature and sustainability that
is rare to find. We’re excited to welcome Mark to the Henrock
kitchen and wider Simon Rogan team, but also to be working
alongside Gerald Van der Walt and the Leeu F&B team to build
on the wider offering that guests can enjoy at Linthwaite House.
Although he’ll be missed in the Henrock kitchen, we also look

forward to seeing Cillian Hennessy settle into his new role as
Development Chef of Aulis Cartmel”
Karen Irving, General Manager at Linthwaite House said:
“We are hugely excited by the arrival of Mark McCabe at Henrock and
Gerald van der Walt at Linthwaite’s Bar & Conservatory. Both chef
appointments provide our guests with a tremendous opportunity
to experience complimentary but very different culinary repertoires.
Gerald’s dishes use the very best British produce, which he combines
with influences and flavours from his culinary travels, providing a
relaxed dining offer contrasting the seasonal gastronomic experiences
delivered by Mark in Linthwaite’s fine dining restaurant, Henrock”
Linthwaite House, sits perched in splendid isolation overlooking
Windermere, England’s largest lake, is the perfect base from which
to explore the scenic surroundings. This luxurious 36-room boutique
hotel is perfectly located in the very heart of England’s Lake District,
a UNESCO world heritage site, set in 14 acres of established gardens
and well-maintained private wooded grounds, replete with its own
idyllic tarn complete with boathouse and jetty.
99

MOVERS & SHAKERS

Camera courtesy of Goya Communications

Ardfern, a new all-day
dining space from Roberta
Hall McCarron to open in
Edinburgh this May

C H E F R O B E R TA H A L L M C C A R R O N
WILL OPEN ARDFERN, A NEW
CAFÉ, BAR AND BOTTLE SHOP
IN EDINBURGH’S LEITH THIS
M A Y . TA K I N G I T S N A M E F R O M A
C H I L D H O O D M E M O RY O F A V I L L AG E
IN ARGYLL AND BUTE, ARDFERN
W I L L B E R O B E R TA ’ S T H I R D
VENTURE, JOINING THE LITTLE
CHARTROOM AND ELEANORE.

From morning till night, Ardfern will offer a truly relaxed all-day
experience, with brunch, bar snacks and heartier dinners alongside
cocktails, draught beer and wine from its bottle shop.
A day at Ardfern will begin with brunch, featuring a selection of Scottish
staples such as a beef haggis tattie scone, fried duck egg, brown sauce
and a full Scottish breakfast with thick-cut bacon, homemade haggis &
tattie scones. Lighter options like overnight oats with fig jam and almond
crunch, and BBQ flatbread with girolles, asparagus and mushroom
marmalade will also be available alongside cooked-to-order filled
doughnuts, pastries from Company Bakery and freshly squeezed juice.
Daytime will revolve around leisurely bites accompanied by cocktails
and a carefully curated wine list of 100 or so bottles. Dishes will include
merguez pâté en croûte, braised beef shin & Isle of Mull cheddar toastie
and oysters served either naturally or with a seaweed hot sauce, as well
as a selection of charcuterie and cheeses from beloved Scottish suppliers.
100

The cocktail list is inspired by aperitivo classics and contemporary takes
using a selection of local spirits.
As night falls, the menu will shift towards larger, heartier plates of food.
Dishes will include:
Shrimp and Langoustine Potato Rosti
Chicken Kofta with Date Molasses, egg yolk purée and crispy Chicken skin
Fish finger sandwich, Mussel curry sauce and Kohlrabi slaw
Pies to share
The interiors at Ardfern will reference the landscape and colour palette
of the coastal village, evoking the feeling of warmth and comfort. Dark
wood and natural texture will establish a sense of place, the point of
where the land meets the sea. A mixture of counter and table seating
will be available, allowing guests to linger at the bar or book a table in
advance. The bar will also function as a bottle shop with wines available
for purchase in-house or online, with options for nationwide delivery.
101

NORWAY – UK 2024
SEAFOOD SUMMIT
GALVANISES SEAFOOD SECTOR
I N D U S T RY L E A D E R S E M P H A S I S E
C O L L A B O R AT I O N A N D T R A N S P A R E N C Y A S
C O R N E R S TO N E S F O R F U T U R E G R O W T H

Close to 200 leading stakeholders from across
the seafood industry united on 27th February
for the 2024 Norway-UK Seafood Summit, at
Fishmongers’ Hall in London.
The event, which is firmly cementing itself as
an important date in industry calendars, led
with bilateral updates from the Norwegian
Minister for Fisheries and Ocean Policy, Cecilie
Myrseth, and the UK Minister for Food, Farming
and Fisheries, Rt Hon Mark Spencer, on how
the two countries are working together, with
joint efforts to further strengthen and develop
seafood trade and relations.
Organised by the Norwegian Seafood Council,
the Summit attracted key stakeholders from
the seafood sector and related industries, from
fishing fleet exporters and distributers, through
to retail, foodservice, analysts and media.
The two countries have a long-standing
seafood partnership with close relations across
the industry. Among top species exported from
Norway to the UK are salmon, cod, haddock,
cold water prawns and halibut.
Key figures include:
● Norway is the top exporter of seafood to
the UK holding an estimated 20% share
of the market (January - November 2023.
● 64% of total UK salmon imports were
from Norway in 2023, up from 59% in
2022
● last year the UK became the largest
market for frozen cod exports from
Norway, and the third largest market for
total cod exports from Norway
102

BI-LATERAL DISCUSSIONS
HIGHLIGHT NORWAY AND THE
UK’S ONGOING COMMITMENT
TO COLLABORATION
AND TRANSPARENCY AS
CORNERSTONES FOR FUTURE
GROWTH
The Summit took a deep dive into a number of
topics relevant to the seafood industry, with the
consensus that collaboration and transparency
are pivotal to securing future growth.

Norwegian Minister, Cecilie Myrseth, provided
the Norwegian perspective:
“It is important for me to be here as the UK is
one of our most important partners, in many
ways, but especially when it comes to seafood.
We have to work together to support growth
and sustainability in our seas, it is important
for the economy but also because we want to
make sure people eat more food from the sea.
There are big opportunities for both the UK and
Norway to explore together in the ocean.”
Whilst British Minister, Rt Hon Mr Spencer added:
“The United Kingdom and Norway’s relationship
is a historic one, based on friendship, respect,
and cooperation. We recognise the importance
of seafood from Norway; having easy access to
it is important for consumer choice and as part
of a healthy diet.”
Norwegian Seafood Council UK Director
Victoria Braathen said:
“Norway and the UK are proud ocean
nations and share a long-standing seafood
partnership. Bringing together 200

stakeholders from across the value chain is a
true testament to our far-reaching collaboration
and joint seafood agenda.
As with many industries the seafood market
has gone through turbulence over recent
years, with diets and lifestyles changing due to
forces including global unrest, the pandemic,
environment and cost of living challenges. Yet
seafood is well-aligned to consumer trends;
it is the perfect fit for those wanting healthy,
sustainable and delicious meal options. To build
confidence, inspire and achieve understanding
for the value of responsibly sourced seafood
and provenance, we believe that working
together closely across the value chain is key to
driving success.”
Insight-led discussions provided a positive
outlook for the sector
Nathan Ward of Kantar Worldpanel studied
how world events over the past 5 years have
impacted consumer behaviour and looked at how
seafood can win with British consumers in 2024:
● forces remain dynamic and our in-home
occasions are settling above the prepandemic averages
● more flexible working locations remain part
of people’s lives

● the recovery of out of home continues
and is polarised with cheaper everyday
occasions and larger, more up-tempo
occasions
● the evening meal remains the core
of chilled and frozen fish at 68% of
seafood occasions
● seafood has a story to tell across
the long-term trends impacting our
meals: health, sustainability, worldwide
flavours, versatility and convenience
Linda Wood, Aquaculture and Fisheries
Manager, M&S Food Group
shared insights on responsible seafood
sourcing from a retail perspective:
● seafood is important for M&S consumers
– seen as a healthy option with a great
taste
● consumers are more worried about
sustainability in seafood than other
categories

● consumers are seeking education when
it comes to seafood purchasing – with a
responsibility from the wider food industry
to facilitate this

Council, Bjørn-Erik Stabell, highlighted the
need for a blue revolution to meet the growing
demand for seafood while preserving marine
ecosystems.

Linda highlighted M&S’ requirements
for sourcing seafood – from responsible
fisheries to crew and fish welfare, quality and
innovation to improve fishery sustainability. In
conclusion, collaboration is required with cross
industry initiatives to drive change.

In culmination, the Norway – UK 2024
Seafood Summit served as a pivotal platform
for industry leaders to convene, exchange
insights, and chart a sustainable path
forward for the seafood sector. With focus on
collaboration and transparency, this summit
underscores our collective commitment to
boosting seafood consumption and driving
future sustainable growth.

Insights from Head of Strategy &
Sustainability of Norwegian Seafood

THE SUMMIT HOSTED AN EXPERT SET OF SPOKESPEOPLE INCLUDING:
Mark Dowding, RBC BlueBay Asset Management
Bjørn Erik Stabell, Head of Strategy and Sustainability, Norwegian Seafood Council
Nathan Ward, Business Unit Director, Usage Foods, Worldpanel by Kantar
Linda Wood, Aquaculture & Fisheries Manager, M&S Food Group
Charles Banks, Co-Founder, thefoodpeople
103

Tasting
is believing
F R O M A S M A L L T R E N D L E N D R E S E L L E R , TO D E S I G N I N G A N D P R O D U C I N G ,
SOUS VIDE PRODUCTS, UK MADE CHARCOAL OVENS AND JAPANESE
I N S P I R E D K A S A I G R I L L S , S O U S V I D E TO O L S H AV E B E E N P U T T I N G T H E I R
P R O D U C T S I N TO P R O F E S S I O N A L K I T C H E N S F O R M O R E T H A N 1 2 Y E A R S .

When an opportunity arose to buy into the emerging Sous Vide trend
SousVideTools was born and with interest in this method growing in
both restaurants and home kitchens it wasn’t long before the seed of
an idea became a fully fledged start up. The business took off and over
time went from reseller of niche brands, to creating and selling own
brand products and putting SousVideTools on the map as a market
leader and expert in trend led products. The ability to keep a close eye
on emerging trends through their network of Chefs from all walks of
life has continued and the current hot topics of sustainability, a need to
reduce overheads on energy and a back to basics cooking approach has
led them to develop products in the charcoal cooking vertical.
104

So fast forward 12 years from when the business began and they
have now launched a range of British Made Japanese Inspired
barbeques and accessories under the Kasai Grills brand and a
charcoal oven under the Bertha Brand to help their customers make
the most of these emerging trends.
Their Kasai Grill has developed an amazing following and has
Michelin Starred Chef Tommy Banks as a brand ambassador, cocreator and inspiration behind many of the accessories. You can’t
turn on a cooking competition or programme currently without
seeing one in pride of place and the company are quite rightly

proud to see their grill on popular tv shows like The Great
British Menu and James Martin’s Saturday Morning.
The difference between a standard barbeque and the
Kasai Konro grill is the level of high heat. The Kasai tiles
are made from a natural mineral that goes through a
process called exfoliation, these special tiles reflect
heat back into the grill thus making the temperatures
more consistent. Plus with sustainable, low odour and
low smoke charcoal, the taste of the food is maximised.
The grills have superior heat-insulation properties so
that the charcoal used in them burns longer than in
conventional bbq’s. With the recent rises in gas and
electricity prices, they have found that homeowners
and professional kitchens are looking at this way of
cooking as an alternative that can be efficient and cost
effective. Built with sustainability in mind, the tiles are
made from a natural material that can be replaced when
they are blacked, the old tiles can be ground and used by
gardeners. They are an effective soil conditioner as they
can loosen compacted soil, provide drainage and hold
three to four times their weight in water.
Every part of the Kasai can be replaced and the company
firmly believe in moving forward with products that can
be repaired rather than the buy cheap throw away and
replace mindset of recent years and have found their
customers are also keen to go back to a time where
products are for a lifetime.
Through the coronavirus epidemic and restrictions,
people had an increased appetite for alfresco dining and
the charcoal cooking trend hit new levels. With sourcing
products from outside the UK becoming more difficult and
expensive SousVideTools had to look closer to home and
are delighted that the Kasai range of products are Made In
Britain.
105

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The Bertha charcoal ovens are a game changer in professional
charcoal cooking. This visionary British- made invention
is taking the charcoal oven market by storm. It has been
endorsed by Michelin star chefs and food critics alike. The
Bertha charcoal oven is suitable for restaurants, hotels and
bars. Compact yet powerful, it’s revolutionising the way food
is being cooked. There is no end to how versatile the Bertha
is – game, burgers, fish, scallops in their shells, lobsters,
vegetables, pizzas, breads, half chickens and any variety of
meat cuts, especially on the bone are cooked to perfection
with a cooking time of 10 minutes and less. Its not only got a
need for speed though, it will also cook the perfect slow dishes
to perfection too there is nothing finer than food that has been
left to cook low and slow to bring out all of its flavours.
Realising that whilst people have an appetite for
charcoal cooking it can be seen as a bit of a dark art
and not something that’s traditionally taught to Chef’s,
SousVideTools are delighted to not only sell the products
but to offer expert training and guidance in a very hands
on way via Development Chef Bruno Birkbeck. Bruno’s
extensive experience includes the Gleneagles Hotel in
Perthshire and Northcote Manor in Langho, where he was
later head tutor at Northcote Cookery School. Whether you
are looking to purchase a product or interested in how to
get the most out of your current set they are happy to help.
Bruno is happy to demonstrate how charcoal ovens can
form a part of your plans and share his enthusiasm and
excitement for this very traditional way of cooking. They
host regular cooking days where you can see and taste the
products at their Head Office in Lancaster, or equally if a
Bertha Oven is of interest Bruno is delighted to bring one
to you for a few hours to show you the ropes and see how
it could fit in with your menu. It’s a great chance to see the
product in action and Bruno will tailor the demonstration
and tasting to be bespoke to you, with no obligation. With
the charcoal trend showing no sign of slowing down, it’s a
great time to explore how it could work for you.
107

“It’s going to be another
blockbuster of a year”
MICHEL ROUX JR

THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP ANNOUNCES ITS

18 REGIONAL FINALISTS FOR
THE 2024 COMPETITION
AS THE REGIONAL FINALISTS FOR
THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP 2024 ARE
ANNOUNCED, CHAIRMEN ALAIN ROUX
AND MICHEL ROUX JR ARE DELIGHTED
TO REVEAL WHO WILL TAKE PART IN THE
REGIONAL FINALS IN THE COMPETITION’S
40TH ANNIVERSARY YEAR.

108

This year, 14 of the 18 finalists are new to the competition and they
hail from establishments as far afield as Scotland and Cornwall.
The 18 chefs, and two reserves, were selected from their written
recipes that had to use one short loin of free-range gilt pork, two
fresh pork kidneys, crackling and sweet potatoes. They were
submitted anonymously to the judges, who took part in the Recipe
Judging day at The Waterside Inn on 21st February 2024. The 18
finalists will compete in two regional finals which will be held
simultaneously on Thursday 7th March 2024 at University College
Birmingham and University of West London, Ealing.

THE CHEFS
COMPETING IN
LONDON:

Yash Dadlani

Max Davies

Oliver Dovey

Yiannis Mexis

Ben Miller

Megan Montibert

Yash Dadlani Kanishka
by Atul Kochhar, London
Max Davies The
Gordon Ramsay Group,
London
Oliver Dovey
Claridge’s Hotel, London
Yiannis Mexis HIDE
Ben Miller Alex Dilling at
Hotel Cafe Royal, London
Megan Montibert
L’Enclume, Cumbria
Karol Ploch Kerridge’s
Bar and Grill, London
Jordan Randerson
The Elephant, Devon
Jacob Reilly Hélène
Darroze at The
Connaught, London
Darryl Shotlander The
Dysart Petersham, Surrey
Caer Timberlake
Restaurant 22,
Cambridge
Rebecca Tough
Vacherin, London

Harrison Brockington

Charlie d’Lima

Steven Halligan

THE CHEFS
COMPETING IN
BIRMINGHAM
Karol Ploch

Jordan Randerson

Jacob Reilly

Darryl Shotlander

Caer Timberlake

Rebecca Tough

Adam Jones

Harrison
Brockington Gather
Restaurant, Devon
Charlie d’Lima
Crocadon Farm, Cornwall
Steven Halligan
Restaurant
Metamorphica,
Lancashire
Adam Jones Horto
Restaurant, North
Yorkshire
Evelina Stripeikyte
The Glenturret Lalique
Restaurant, Scotland
Liam Smith Restaurant
Pine, Newcastle-uponTyne

Evelina Stripeikyte

Liam Smith

109

Judges: Alain Roux, Brian Turner CBE, André
Garrett (2002 scholar), Rachel Humphrey,
Clare Smyth MBE, Adam Smith MCA (2012
scholar) Michel Roux Jr, Angela Hartnett OBE,
Sat Bains (1999 scholar), Simon Hulstone
(2003 scholar).
There are two chefs in reserve (should any
finalists not be able to compete):
James Plowright The Bugle, Hampshire
Kian Puerto-Terron Bulrush Restaurant,
Bristol
110

THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP

This year’s challenge was to create a
recipe using one short loin of free-range
gilt pork from the shoulder end, weighing
anywhere between 1.6kg and 1.8kg
maximum, untrimmed with four bones
in, plus two fresh pork kidneys, together
plated with two simple or composed
garnishes/accompaniments. One of them
had to include sweet potatoes and the other
could be a garnish/accompaniment of the
contestant’s choice. One of these could be
served separately, if preferred

Commenting on the regional finalists,
Chairman Michel Roux Jr said “The successful
chefs sent in a really great set of recipes
that all showcase some amazing skills
and presentation in their dishes. It’s going
to be another blockbuster of a year as we
celebrate our 40th anniversary.”
Chairman Alain Roux added, “It was great to
see so many new candidates taking part in
the competition. It shows how, despite the
difficulties in today’s hospitality industry,

so many young chefs are dedicated
to improving their skills and gaining
new experience by taking part in the
Scholarship.”
On the tackling of the competition brief,
Brian Turner CBE said “I suspect that many
competitors didn’t have much experience
matching sweet potato with pork and
crackling, and it seemed that it threw a few
people off, however the attempts were
great. And it is great to see so many chefs

representing restaurants from across the
country.”
Havig been part of the judging process, Chef
Angela Hartnett OBE commented “We saw
a lot of modern interpretations of things,
lots of different spices, different herbs,
processes in cooking in these recipes, which
is great. You have to adhere to the classics
because they underline everything, but it’s
great to see they’d thought their recipes
through so well.”

And on the task at hand deciding who
goes through to the next stage, Emily
Roux added “Judging the recipes was
really interesting and it was difficult
to whittle them down to choose the 18
finalists. We really have gone into a lot
of detail in our discussions about what
separates the recipes that have gone
through to the regional finals, from
those that haven’t. It’s also great to see
chefs from across the competition’s age
range – from age 22 to 29.”
111

CALLING
ALL
CULINARY
STARS

S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF ACADEMY
COMPETITION OPENS APPLICATIONS TO THE
SIXTH EDITION INVITING THE UK’S MOST
TALENTED YOUNG CHEFS TO ENTER

Applications for the
S.Pellegrino Young Chef
Academy 2024-25 are now
open

112

UK chefs aged under 30
have until 19th June to
apply

Prestigious culinary
competition encourages young
talent to ‘bring their best
to the table’ and will shine a
spotlight on the best global
culinary talents of the future

Winner of the UK Regional
Final will go on to compete
in the Global Finale, with
the overall winner being
crowned the ‘Best Young
Chef in the World’

YOUNG CHEFS ACROSS THE UK ARE NOW ABLE TO APPLY TO THE SIXTH EDITION OF
THE S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF ACADEMY COMPETITION 2024-25, AN EXCITING GLOBAL
INITIATIVE CREATED BY S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF ACADEMY TO DISCOVER AND MENTOR
THE MOST PROMISING AND TALENTED YOUNG CHEFS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.
The S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy
Competition is much more than a
culinary contest. It will provide successful
applications from the UK – and all over the
globe – with the opportunity to join the
longstanding, ambitious S.Pellegrino Young
Chef Academy project, which aims to make
the world a better place through food; giving
young culinary talent a unique opportunity
to join an international community that
empowers through education, mentoring,
networking and career development
opportunities.

Lisbon triumph, emerging as the best chef in
the world under 30 years of age.
Stefano Bolognese, Sanpellegrino’s
International Business Unit
Director comments: “The S.Pellegrino Young
Chef Academy is a global community that was
born to convey S.Pellegrino’s commitment to
shape the future of gastronomy by investing
in values such as sustainability, responsibility,
inclusivity, resilience and beauty, and the
Competition is the main access to it. The
last edition marked a record in participation
with over 166 chefs passing the preliminary
selections amongst the 15 regions involved.
Seeing so many young talents willing to bring
their best through hard work and passion, and
to see them join our mission makes us proud.
This makes us believe even more in this project
and we can’t wait for the new edition to start.”

During the competition, participants will be
mentored closely by renowned chefs who will
help them bring their vision for the future of
gastronomy to the table, as well as equip them
to take their culinary skills to the next level and
bring their best to the table.

Last year’s UK finalist, Marcus Clayton, went on to be mentored by Michelin-star Chef, Lisa
Goodwin-Allen, Executive Chef at Northcote during last year’s Grand Finale in Milan.
Commenting on her experience, Goodwin-Allen says: “Mentoring Marcus Clayton at last
year’s S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Grand Finale was an unforgettable experience. I’ve
been fortunate to see first-hand how the competition benefits culinary talent of the future
and would recommend the process to any inspiring young chef looking to develop their
skillset. S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy is a unique opportunity for upcoming culinary
talent to learn from leading names in the industry, helping nurture their career and inspire
them to bring their best to the table.”
The S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy
Competition 2024-25 will welcome young
chefs who wish to challenge themselves
and their abilities while gaining global
recognition. From 21st February, young chefs
across the UK under 30 years of age will have
the chance to register on https://www.
sanpellegrinoyoungchefacademy.com/
the-competition/application-form until
19th June 2024 by submitting the recipe of a
signature dish that communicates their vision,
unique skills and creativity. As with previous
editions, the first selection phase will be
evaluated by ALMA, the International School
of Italian Culinary Arts. ALMA will define a
shortlist of young chefs who will participate in

the Regional Finals that will take place across
the world through the second half of 2024.
The winner of the UK Regional Finale will go
on to compete at the Grand Finale event to
win the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy
Award 2024-25. To win the title, the chefs
must impress the global Grand Jury – an
esteemed panel of internationally renowned
chefs – by demonstrating unrivalled technical
abilities as well as true creativity. The winner
will also display a strong personal belief
regarding gastronomy, to convince the Jury of
their ability to become a catalyst for positive
change. The last edition saw chef Nelson
Freitas from Fifty Seconds restaurant in

During the Competition, applicants will also
compete for three additional awards which will
recognise each young chef’s varied beliefs and
approaches to creating positive societal change
through food:
S.Pellegrino Social Responsibility Award:
voted for by the Sustainable Restaurant
Association, which runs Food Made Good,
the largest foodservice sustainability
program and global community for driving
sustainability in hospitality, the winning dish
will represent the principle that food is at its
best when it’s the result of socially responsible
practices, encompassing sourcing, social and
environmental requirements.
Acqua Panna Connection in Gastronomy
Award: voted for by Mentors, the winner of this
award will produce a dish that represents the
culinary heritage of the chef’s native region.
The dish should highlight traditional culinary
practices and personal modern vision, providing
a connection between the past and the future.
Fine Dining Lovers Food for Thought Award:
voted for by the online Fine Dining Lovers
community, this award will be for the young chef
who best represents their personal beliefs with
a signature dish.

To learn more about the initiative please visit: www.sanpellegrinoyoungchefacademy.com.

113

January & February

Beher Showcase
th

Tuesday 30 January

2024

Wellocks
Customer Events

WE PRIDE OURSELVES ON
CONNECTING OUR PRODUCERS
TO CHEFS, SO WE RELISHED THE
OPPORTUNITY TO WELCOME BEHER
TO OUR LANCASHIRE OFFICES FOR
A CUSTOMER AND TEAM TASTING
SESSION IN LATE JANUARY.
Jamón Professional Juan Manuel Diaz Romero shared his
wealth of knowledge whilst showing the group the stages
of carving a whole joint and most importantly providing
tastings of the different cuts
Beher specialises in rearing free-range, black Iberian pigs
and perfecting the curing process of their Iberico hams. They
pride themselves on the care of their 100% purebred Iberico
pigs, descended from wild boar, who forage free-range on
the oak groves – known as dehesas – of Extremadura in
south-west Spain. Feeding on acorns and pasture, it is this
combination of diet, ancestry and their semi-wild existence
that gives the meat its characteristic nutty flavour and meltin-the-mouth texture.

114

Cornwall MSK Training Days
23rd & 24th Jan

Rudding Park MSK
12th Feb

OUR ONGOING
PARTNERSHIP WITH
MSK IS BUILT UPON A
FOUNDATION OF SHARED
VALUES AND A PASSION
FOR SUPPORTING
CHEFS WITH THE
FINEST INGREDIENTS.
AS ONE OF THE UK’S
LARGEST AND MOST
EXPERIENCED SUPPLIERS
OF INGREDIENTS FOR
MODERN TECHNIQUES,
MSK’S EXTENSIVE HIGHQUALITY RANGE IS
AVAILABLE TO ORDER AT
WELLOCKS.

To support chefs and bartenders, we are now offering exclusive
training sessions for you and your team with MSK’s development chefs,
either at MSK headquarters in Chesterfield or in your very own kitchen.
This January, we welcomed MSK down to Cornwall to lead two
training days, kindly hosted by The Sardine Factory in Looe and
Watergate Bay Hotel in Newquay. MSK’s Development Chef Rupert
Rowley lead the groups through MSK’s range, how these specialist
ingredients can help with menu development, as well as a variety of
modern techniques covering the fundamentals of gelling, thickening,

whipping and foaming, chocolate making, and addressing the
challenges of ‘free-from’ dining.
In February, we welcomed Rudding Park’s Chef Academy to MSK’s
headquarters for a development training session, focusing on modern
culinary techniques with ingredients from their specialist range.
If you’re interested in a session for your team, simply get in touch
with our team via events@wellocks.co.uk or speak directly to your
Business Development Manager.
115

Passion, skill
and creativity
shine through in
Toque d’Or® Heats
shortlist
N E S T L É P R O F E S S I O N A L A R E D E L I G H T E D TO A N N O U N C E T H E S H O R T L I S T O F
CO L L E G E S T U D E N T S A D VA N C I N G TO T H E H E AT S O F O U R 2 0 2 4 TO Q U E D ’ O R
CO M P E T I T I O N , A F T E R A CO M P E T I T I V E E N T RY P R O C E S S W H I C H S AW A L M O S T
4 0 0 A P P L I C AT I O N S F R O M I N D I V I D U A L S T U D E N T S A C R O S S T H E U K .
Taking place at The Grand Cookery School in York during 12-13th March 2024, the
Heats will host 48 FOH and BOH students.
To see the names of the 21 colleges with shortlisted students for the Heats, please visit
here. And to see the full list of shortlisted entrants for the Heats, please visit here.
Katya Simmons, managing director Nestlé Professional UK&I said: “Toque d’Or is one of
my favourite events in the calendar year. It’s a good reminder of just how much future
talent we have to look forward to as an industry. I’m delighted to welcome the 48
shortlisted candidates to the next stage of the competition. This year, the Heats has a
fantastic judging panel comprising young industry talent like Chef Tom Booton, experts
from within Nestlé Professional, and former Toque d’Or stars. Contestants are set to
experience a learning opportunity of a lifetime, and I wish all of them the best of luck!”
116

What can competitors
expect to learn?
During the Heats, BOH competitors will have the
opportunity to learn about the importance of
plant-based menus while FOH competitors will
be able to learn about the art of customer service.
The two action-packed days will comprise a mix of
judges from the industry, Nestlé Professional, and
former Toque d’Or competitors – both finalists and
winners – providing a platform for them to continue
to develop their knowledge and also pass on their
advice to this year’s cohort.

BOH judges for the Heats include:

FOH judges for the Heats include:

● Tom Booton, executive chef of The Grill by Tom Booton (At The
Dorchester)
● John Costello, senior confectioner, Nestlé Professional
● Paul Hawkins, development chef, Nestlé Professional
● Emily Simkins, 2023 BOH finalist, North Hertfordshire College
● Martin Hargreaves, New Product Development Manager for
Cherry Tree Bakery
Tom Booton expressed his excitement: “This year’s competition is set to
be one to remember with a truly impressive shortlist of candidates moving
into the National Heats. It’s not just about the win though; it’s about the
journey of growth, learning, and the chance to work with the best in our
field. I’m eager to get going and can’t wait to be part of the action.”

● Aaron Dunn and Jo Walsh, Nestlé Professional’s coffee trainers
● Antonia Macfarlane, 2018 FOH winner, City of Glasgow College
● Sophie Taylor, 2021 FOH winner, Edinburgh College
● Joshua Kerr, 2023 FOH winner, City of Glasgow College
Joining the Toque d’Or judging panel for the first time, Antonia
Macfarlane, said: “After first competing in 2017 and winning in 2018,
I can confidently say that the Toque d’Or experience changes the
trajectory of your career. I am thrilled to be involved as a FOH judge
this year; it will be fantastic to see familiar faces and relive my own
time in the competition.”

2024 Toque d’Or key dates
Heats: 12th – 13th March
Grand Finals Week: 21st – 25th April

Awards: 7th June
Winner’s trip: July

117

My George
Diary Hersey

“

Spreading the word of

the power
of hospitality

I A M NO T S U RE HOW
OT H E R P E OPL E F E E L ,
B UT T H E F I RS T TWO
M ON T H S O F THI S Y E A R
H AV E F L OWN B Y AT
R A P I D S P EE D. F ROM
T H E C R A ZI NE S S O F
L IF E G E T T I NG B AC K TO
N O R M A L AF TE R THE
FE S T I V E MADNE S S ,
B US I N E S S B O O MI NG
A N D S E E MI NG L Y
E NDL E S S E VE NTS , I T
HA S B E E N NO N-S TO P.
118

Sometimes I feel like we get so busy in this
industry, it is hard to take a step back and
gain some perspective, focus on new goals
and make time for things that are important
to us. For me, and as I have written about
before, education, inspiration and motivation
are the three most important words in our
business and are values I try so hard not to
ignore even in busy and hectic times.
After reflecting on this over the past couple of
weeks and having been re-energised (from
taking part in things like ‘Obsession’ with Lisa
Goodwin Alan and attending the Michelin
ceremony), I feel more determined than ever
to take these inspirational moments and get
back on track with the things I care about
most. The most prominent value (of the
three!) for me right now is education.
Inspiring and educating the next generation
is the key to success in hospitality. It is
our duty to pass on our skills, experience
and knowledge to ensure we are instilling
standards and pride in our work, as well as
spreading the word of the power of hospitality
and the career opportunities it can hold.
There are two platforms that I am a part of
that really try to engage with the future stars

of our industry. One being the incredible
competition that is, World Young Chef,
Young Waiter and Young Mixologist, where I
am a front of house judge. This programme
promotes hospitality as a career of choice,
a profession, and a vocation. It is open to
anyone under the age of 28 from all areas of
hospitality, from local pubs to three Michelin
star restaurants. It is an open, inclusive,
educational platform that gives you the
opportunity to meet a huge range of talent
from all over the world. Participants get
personal guidance and support from a panel
of esteemed culinary experts, food critics
and industry leaders, whilst at the same
time boosting networks and in turn, careers.
I could not recommend this competition
enough, and encourage anyone reading this
to apply, or encourage your teams to apply.
The opportunities are truly endless. For the
UK entries close on the 23rd March, so don’t
miss out!
Last year we held the 2023 World Finals in
Monaco, a trip of a lifetime for so many people
from around the world. We welcomed people
from England, Wales, Singapore, Ireland, the
Cayman Islands, Hong Kong, Monaco, USA
and Scotland. I witnessed mind-blowing
skill and talent in this final, with contestants

the competition, from local, regional
rounds to the international stage, was just
incredible. The bonds these contestants
build are irreplaceable and priceless. The
network that comes with this completion is
just as, if not more, important than winning.
Let’s get more people on this programme
and spread the world across the globe!
The other external educational platform
that I absolutely love being a part of is our
mentor and tutor days with the colleges in
Cornwall. Excitingly, we have two takeovers
with Penrith and Truro colleges coming up
in March.
The impact that we can have in schools and
colleges as people working in the industry
is so important. Throughout lockdown and
the pandemic, we missed out on a whole
generation of young adults who may have
left the industry, or found other ways to
make money, straying from a career in
hospitality and potentially never coming
back. A lot of people leant into working
from laptops, and the need for human
interaction and service certainly took a
backward step. It is so important to now
look further into education, getting into
schools and inspiring the young people of
today to be excited about hospitality as a
career, being there to show them what is
possible.

travelling hundreds, if not thousands, of miles
to compete and elevate their network, pushing
themselves to the limit. We had contestants
from the French Laundry, Zen, Chapter One and
many more top world restaurants. To just be in
the room and witness the future of our industry
was both humbling and inspiring.
On this occasion, Singapore were the winners
all round, for the chef, waiter and mixologist
competitions. They showcased incredible
teamwork, originality, flair, dedication and
planning, and were clearly there to win.
No messing around! What was amazing
to see was the other contestants being so
celebratory and supportive for their win, all
of them blown away by the work that this
team had put in and inspired by the detail
and execution. I have no doubt that some
of the inspired details and touches that
were showcased that day will be vividly
remembered by all the people that witnessed
their service, food and drink in the final. It will
certainly stay with me for years to come.
Stand out moments included the basket of
ingredients presented at the start of the meal
(for the guests to touch and smell!) with a
description of the background of Singaporean
culture and food, as well as the polaroid

These days with the colleges give us
a chance to motivate and educate the
students on all aspects of hospitality, whilst
at the same time showcasing what we
believe in as a company: being sustainable,
local and luxury. I have learnt so much
from going to the colleges to work with
the students, to understand what younger
people are looking for in a career, to adapt
and be aware of changes in culture.
camera used to take photos of the team
and their guests. At the end of the meal,
the photos were quickly transferred into a
card with the menu, including personalised
messages from their whole team to each one
of their guests. The detail was incredible and
emotional, and this is the kind of experience
(and reaction!) surely any hospitality team
seeks to create.
To be able to see the relationships grow
between teams and contestants throughout

We can’t ignore that working hours, mental
health struggles and work-life balance are
far more spoken about now by comparison
to when I was young in the industry. It’s so
important to talk to the people we want
to work with us, and to showcase our
industry in its best light. I would encourage
everyone to support their local colleges
and get in there for a day. These moments
can be so pivotal in the students’ lives, and
you can learn a lot yourself: let’s see it as a
responsibility, rather than a choice.
119

Westminster Kingsway College

attends The Young
Chef Olympiad

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 S AW T H E 1 0 T H C H A P T E R O F T H E Y O U N G
CHEF OLYMPIAD COMPETITION HOSTED IN INDIA. THE
CO M P E T I T I O N WA S T H E B R A I N C H I L D O F D R S U B O R N O
B O S E , F O U N D E R O F T H E I N T E R N AT I O N A L I N S T I T U T E O F
HOTEL MANAGEMENT (IIHM) BASED IN INDIA.

This year saw a total of 60 countries united under one roof to compete for the Grand Final, plate final and the Dr Bose Challenge.
Representing England and Westminster Kingsway College was 3rd Year student chef, Chloe Stening.
The Young Chef Olympiad begins with an
Opening Ceremony, this year held in Delhi.
This is an opportunity for all participants, and
their mentors to present themselves to one
another and to spectators of the event, and to
fly the flags for their representative countries.
Joining Chloe as her mentor was Westminster
Kingsway College Chef Lecturer, Chris Basten.
Also attending as chief adjudicator was Head
of School for Hospitality and Culinary Arts at
Westminster Kingsway College, Paul Jervis.
120

The day following the opening ceremony sees
the representatives sent out across India for
their preliminary round. Heat 1 brings together
10 countries at a time, which have been
seeded and drawn from a hat. Two rounds
were held in Delhi, one in Goa, one in Pune,
one in Hyderabad and one in Bangalore. For
Chloe, this meant that after attending the
opening ceremony in New Delhi, she then
had to hop down to Goa for two days of
preliminaries.

The preliminary rounds were based on Knife
skills, with the production of four portions of a
vegetarian dish using a set list of ingredients.
Candidates were also required to produce
four servings of Crepe Souffle, using a
specified recipe.
The ten top scoring countries were promoted
to the Grand Final to compete for the Golden
Toque and first prize of $5000 US. Over
three and a half hours long, the Grand Final

was made up of a skills test cooking poached,
scrambled and a 3-egg mushroom omelette.
Following this, competitors produced four
portions of a chicken dish with a suitable
potato and vegetable garnish based upon a list
of ingredients and sauce and four individual
portions of a Paris Brest.
The countries that were ranked from 11-20
went into the Plate trophy with the remaining
countries paired up and entered into the Dr
Bose Challenge. The Plate final was 2 ½ hours
long and was similar to the Grand Final, but
without the Paris Brest component and the
Dr Bose challenge was based on a street
food concept, using a list of ingredients and
biodegradable packaging.
The overall winner this year was from Azerbaijan,
who also won the trophy in 2023 – this is the first

time we have seen back-to-back winners in the
10-year history of the competition. Nepal and The
Philippines took a joint second place and the third
place was taken by Italy.
The plate trophy was won by India and the
Dr Bose Challenge was won by the pairing of
Kenya and Switzerland.
Commenting on her experience, Chloe Stening
said “Words cannot describe how much on an
amazing time being in India has been, I have
made some amazing friends and will never
forget this experience. Thank you to all the
International Institute of Hotel Management
students in India, you have all been amazing”
Team England was successfully entered into
the Plate Final this year, only narrowly beaten
to the title by India. Congratulations Chloe!
121

www.westking.ac.uk

STEP INTO A BRAND
NEW FUTURE
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THE
SOMMELIER

DIARIES

123

THE SOMMELIER DIARIES
Words Quentin Sadler

RIOJA

Royalty
Looking south from Rioja Alavesa across the Ebro to Rioja Alta, with Castillo de Davalillo in the distance

124

CVNE
photographs courtesy of CVNE.

spreads its wings

Eusebio Real de Asúa (left) and Raimundo Real de Asúa (right)

photograph by Quentin Sadler.

This wine region is world famous today,
and by far the most important appellation
in Spain. In the nineteenth century, though,
few would have dreamed just how glittering
Rioja’s future would be.
In fits and starts a handful of visionaries
sought to produce world class wines in this,
then, rural backwater from the 1840s onwards.
By the 1860s wines from the likes of Marqués
de Riscal and Marqués de Murrieta were
beginning to make a name for themselves,
which encouraged other aspirant wine
producers to seek out this emerging region.
In 1879, two Basque brothers, Eusebio and
Raimundo Real de Asúa, found their way

to Rioja’s primary wine town, Haro. Here
they managed to buy a parcel of land and
build their winery, leaving enough space
for future expansion, in the Barrio de la
Estación. This part of town is right by the
railway station whose tracks, just a few
years earlier, had made the commercial
export of Rioja wines possible for the first
time.
Eusebio and Raimundo called their new
venture Compañía Vinícola del Norte de
España – Wine Company of Northern
Spain – or C.V.N.E. for short. Written on the
labels in Victorian copperplate handwriting,
the V resembled a U – and so it has been
pronounced coon-eh ever since.
125

all rights reserved.

wines were amongst the very first Reserva
and Gran Reserva wines in Rioja.
Viña Real was produced from vineyards near
Elciego, near the historic Royal Road, or Camino
Real – hence the name. Today Viña Real is a
single estate with a super-modern, technically
advanced winery on the north bank of the River
Ebro near the ancient village of Laguardia.
Imperial received its rather grand name from
the fact that originally the wine was intended
for the London Club market and the first wines
were bottled in imperial pint-sized bottles.
Today the grapes are sourced from CVNE’s own
vineyards around Villalba, in the mountains 5
km northwest of Haro. Imperial also has its own
dedicated wine-making facility and cellar in the
original CVNE winery from 1879.

Rioja map created by Quentin Sadler for Wine Scholar Guild

All of this success made them ever more
ambitious and they set about creating wines
that were higher quality than their standard
Cune range. 1915 saw the introduction of
the first major white wine brand in Spain –
Monopole. Today Monopole is made in two
very different styles.

In those days most Rioja was still sold young,
but CVNE were determined to produce high
quality wine. To achieve this they decided to
age their wines in barrel and bottle before
release. To this end they built a large series
of cellars, the most famous of which was
designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1890. By 1900
they had the capacity to age over 80,000
bottles, which was unheard of at that time.

The 1920s saw them launch two of the
most famous Rioja wines of all; Viña Real,
from the Rioja Alavesa zone, and Imperial,
from Rioja Alta. As was normal in Rioja –
indeed still is to a large degree – these were
originally brands made from fruit grown in
many vineyards in their respective zones.
The terms we now associate with Rioja were
only just beginning to be used, so these

photographs courtesy of CVNE

Rioja was still only finding its way in those
days, so at first CVNE produced brandy and
sparkling wines in Rioja, as well as standard
wines. Success was rapid though and they
soon established a reputation for themselves
and began winning medals at wine shows
across Europe.

CVNE’s original 1879 winery in Haro

126

For decades one of CVNE’s best sources of
fruit was a 62 hectare property on the north
bank of the Ebro in Rioja Alavesa. In the early
1970s the family who owned it explained that
they would have to sell as their heirs were
simply not interested in living the life of grape
growers. CVNE snapped up this extraordinary
estate and took the opportunity to turn it into
the first “château” style Rioja wine estate.
They called it Contino, after the continual
royal guard that was stationed here in the
sixteenth century. Contino became Rioja’s
first single-estate wine with the inaugural
vintage in 1973.
The company is still owned, and managed, by
the descendants of the Real de Asúa brothers,
with fifth generation family member Victor
Urrutia serving as CEO, while his sister Maria
Urrutia Ybarra is the marketing director.
Their ambition and drive never seems to lag
and recent years have shown remarkable
growth in their Rioja endeavours. Most
importantly they have built new wineries
in Haro and at Viña Real and created a new
modern-style range of wines, Real de Asúa/
Asúa. This has its own purpose built winery
within the original CVNE buildings in Haro.
The family have also looked beyond Rioja,
with the 2017 purchase of the old-established,
quality-driven Catalan Cava house, Roger
Goulart. 2018 saw them buy the beautiful
Virgen del Galir estate in Valdeorras in Galicia,
and the following year they added an estate
in the prestigious Ribera del Duero region to
their portfolio. This estate is called Bela, the

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

The famous Imperial barrel cellar designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1890

nickname of Sofia, Eusebio Real de Asúa’s
daughter who was born in 1910 and from
whom Victor and Maria Urrutia are descended.

Adobe Stock Images

It didn’t stop there either. In 2023 CVNE
acquired La Val, one of the estates that
championed Galicia’s Rias Baixas region and
helped to give the local Albariño grape its
current fame.

The twelfth century Castillo de Davalillo on the south bank of the Ebro River between Briones and Cenicero

Their latest project is rather different, the
purchase and renovation of the iconic twelfth
century Castillo de Davalillo, halfway between
Haro and Cenicero on the Ebro. They are
turning it into a visitor centre to enable people
to appreciate the land and vineyards of Rioja
from the castle’s astonishing views.
127

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

CVNE’s Carromaza estate in Villalba, northwest of Haro. The best fruit from this 2.37 hectare plot is

Victor Urrutia, CVNE’s CEO, with his sister Maria

used to make Real de Asúa

Urrutia Ybarra, CVNE’s marketing director, in the

Vines at Contino around a 2000 year old olive tree

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

Barrels of wine ageing in CVNE’s cellars

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

photographs courtesy of CVNE.

Imperial barrel cellar

Oak fermentation vats in CVNE’s Real de Asúa winery in Haro

128

THE SOMMELIER DIARIES

My notes on some of CVNE’s wide range of Rioja wines:
WHITE RIOJA
It is a shame that so many people have no idea how good a white wine region Rioja is – these wines
serve as a great reminder.

2022 CVNE MONOPOLE
100% Viura fermented in
stainless steel, this is fresh,
citrussy and crisp. Perfect with
salads and light dishes. 89/100

2019 CUNE BARREL
FERMENTED BLANCO
100% Viura fermented in new
American oak barrels and aged
on the lees, making a wine with
creamy complexity, mouth-feel
and brisk acidity – one of the
great wine bargains. Perfect
with fish, white meat and
creamy sauces. 90/100

2021 VIÑA REAL BARREL
FERMENTED BLANCO
100% Viura, this time from Rioja
Alavesa. Only the free run juice
is fermented in Hungarian oak
barrels and then aged on the
lees. Lovely tension between
the delicate, pristine fruit, the
spicy oak and the crisp acidity
gives a balance, elegance and
brightness. 91/100

2018 CUNE BLANCO RESERVA
CVNE made this richly oaky style
in the 1950s and have resurrected
it with this 2018 vintage. 100%
Viura from a50 year old vines. Half
fermented in concrete tanks, the
rest in new, or once used, French
oak barrels. Aged 18 months in
barrel with lees stirring, it’s rich,
spicy, nutty, waxy, smoky and
delicious. Surprisingly floral and
fresh, this is perfect with rich fish
dishes – think turbot, halibut and
lobster – and cheese. 92/100

2019 CVNE MONOPOLE
CLÁSICO
Another resurrected style, this is
how Monopole used to be made
from 1915 until 1980. 100% Viura,
fermented in tank, then aged in
used oak for 8 months before being
blended with a small percentage of
high quality Manzanilla Sherry. It’s
savoury, salty and intense – a great
wine, perfect with seafood. 95/100

2020 CONTINO BLANCO
80% Viura with 20% of the richer,
fatter Garnacha Blanca. 24 hours
skin contact, fermentation in
stainless steel and ageing in large,
used French oak barrels (54%) and
the rest in concrete, for 9 months. A
gloriously herbal, nutty, creamy and
citrus-laced wine – perfect with
grilled fish. 94/100
129

RED RIOJA
All of these pair admirably with traditional Rioja roast meats and barbecue, so drink them all with
roast lamb, roast pork, roast beef and steaks, as well as stews and strong cheeses.
Crianzas: must be aged for a minimum of two years before release, including at least 12 months in
oak barrels.
It is easy to forget Crianza wines and head straight for the Reservas, but there is some great
drinking and fabulous value in this category.

2020 CUNE CRIANZA
85% Tempranillo with some
Garnacha and Mazuelo, aged for
12 months in American oak barrels,
giving those classic vanilla flavours
and a supple palate. 90/100

2020 VIÑA REAL CRIANZA
A more concentrated and finely
textured Crianza with rich fruit and
more spice from the use of French
oak, as well as American, for 14
months. 92/100

2020 ASÚA CRIANZA
100% Tempranillo from a single
plot in Villalba, fermentation in
stainless steel and 18 months
ageing in French and American oak
has made this a fine, concentrated
Crianza with red and black fruit,
clove, vanilla, coffee, chocolate and
spice notes. 93/100
Reservas: must be aged for a
minimum of three years before
release, including at least 12
months in oak barrels.

2019 CUNE RESERVA
85% Tempranillo with some
Garnacha and Mazuelo, aged 24
months in French (partly new) and
used American oak barrels. Also aged
in bottle for 12 months. Richly fruity
and very supple with lovely vanilla
and spice on the finish. 92/100
130

THE SOMMELIER DIARIES

2016 VIÑA REAL RESERVA
90% Tempranillo with some
Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano,
aged 22 months in American, and
some French, oak barrels. Rich
red plums, a cut of tomato stem
acidity, smooth tannins and a
tickle of liquorice all combine to
make this an elegant, suave Rioja
just beginning to show its savoury
side. 94/100

2013 ASÚA RESERVA
100% Tempranillo from a single
plot in Villalba, fermentation in
stainless steel followed by 18
months ageing in French and
American oak and a further 18
months in bottle has created an
opulent and aromatic wine with
rich fruit and silky tannins. 94/100

2018 IMPERIAL RESERVA
85% Tempranillo with some
Graciano and Mazuelo, all old
vines. Fermented in French oak
and aged in French and American
barrels for two years, then for
a further two years in bottle.
Imperial is textbook Rioja, it
almost wrote the rules after all,
with black and red fruit, spice,
vanilla, smooth tannins, tobacco,
clove and a touch of leather.
95/100

2019 CONTINO RESERVA
85% Tempranillo with some
Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo.
Fermented in stainless steel and
concrete, then aged in 80% French
and 20% American oak barrels for
two years, and bottle for a further
two s. Contino delivers more fruit
than Imperial, but can also age very
well. 94/100
Gran Reservas: must be aged for
a minimum of five years before
release, including at least two
years in oak barrels and two
years in bottle.

2017 CUNE GRAN RESERVA
85% Tempranillo plus Graciano
and Mazuelo, aged 24 months in
French and American oak barrels
and a further 36 months in bottle.
An exuberantly fruity, powerful
and upfront Gran Reserva with the
classic spice and vanilla notes and
smooth tannins. 93/100

2016 VIÑA REAL GRAN
RESERVA
9% Tempranillo with 5% Graciano,
fermented in stainless steel, aged
in 70% French and 30% American
barrels for two years and in bottle
for another three. Viña Real always
has a brightness and concentration
to the fruit, making it feel weighty
and full-bodied. However the
freshness keeps it bright and the

MY THOUGHTS
The Real de Asúa brothers’ achievement was
remarkable, they created a winery and a strong
wine brand with a reputation for quality. In
every subsequent generation, family members
have come forward to take stewardship of
CVNE and to guide it through changing times.
Over the years they have continued to develop
new wines, to absorb new ideas and to evolve

their winemaking and wine styles. CVNE really
has helped to lead Rioja to become a better,
more exciting wine region. Producers are now
more concerned about growing grapes that
reflect the land and terroir, rather than making
wines from a set recipe, as they often did in the
past. All this change came while CVNE were
still producing wines that earned the respect of
critics and a loyal following with consumers.

tannins are refined. 95/100

2018 IMPERIAL GRAN RESERVA
Rigorously selected Tempranillo
with Graciano and Mazuelo from old
vines in CVNE’s Villalba vineyards.
Fermented in French oak vats and
aged in French and American oak
for two years, then aged in bottle
for another three. That Imperial
firmness is there, backed up by a
core of ripe fruit and those classic
savoury, espresso, tobacco, leather
and oak characters with a note of
sweet vanilla. 96/100
Vinos de Autor: A new category
for Rioja, these wines ignore the
traditional ageing regimes, so
are labelled with no mention of
Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva

2019 VIÑA REAL BAKEDER
Pronounced back-aid-er, the name is
a colloquial term meaning “beautiful
as peace” 100% Tempranillo grapes
from two exceptional plots in
Lagaurdia. Fermented in stainless
steel tanks and aged 11 months in
French oak barrels. A fresh style of
Rioja with bright red fruit, delicate
oak spice and a lush texture. 94/100

2020 REAL DE ASÚA
A selection of the best Tempranillo from
CVNE’s Carromaza estate in Villalba,
fermented in a single French oak vat
and aged in barrel for 14 months.
Aromatic on the nose, with fresh red
plums, blackberries, cassis, espresso,
nuts and vanilla. The palate is lush and
vibrant with a silky texture – a very
different style that drinks beautifully
now, but will age too. 96/100

CVNE produces a wide range of Rioja wines,
but it never fails to deliver.
CVNE wines are distributed in the UK by Hatch
Mansfield Agencies and Matthew Clark.
Quentin Sadler is a wine writer, wine educator
and mapmaker.

131

Modular
Creativity
In Your Kitchen
Have you ever wondered how you could simultaneously speed
up, yet simplify your creative culinary process? All too often,
creativity is the one element that always ends up at the bottom
of a never-ending to do list. To keep on top of your game of
innovating and surprising your guests, you must allow yourself
the time and space to be creative. One thing that won’t work,
is to sit down and ‘wait for inspiration’, but you can definitely
stimulate your creativity by feeding it!

Go the modular route
In professional kitchens, you work with component recipes. Think of a dressing, sous vide
pork loin or pommes dauphine. Gastronomixs provides recipes in exactly that way. The
beauty of the way Escoffier founded this strict and organized way of working, lends itself
for the quick creation of new dishes. Mixing and matching recipes to meet the demand
of guests. A modular system for creativity so to say, you could compare it to playing with
LEGO® as a child. It gives you the freedom to create a whole new world of original, eyecatching dishes. A component will never define your style and signature, the combination
of components in a dish will!
132

About Gastronomixs
Gastronomixs.com is an award-winning culinary platform,
which offers thousands of components for everyday
ingredients. From a nectarine broth to a chocolate bergamot
espuma or kimchi reduction. Gastronomixs is also proud to
work with the leaders of our industry: nobody less than
Ayo Adeyemi from restaurant Akoko in London was their guest
chef recently. Many other renowned chefs like Luke French,
Ben Murphy, Gareth Ward, Adam Handling and Tom Booton are
sharing various signature recipes on the platform. All recipes
on Gastronomixs are building blocks for an endless supply of
dishes. The platform is very user-friendly and organized in such
a way that you will quickly find whatever you need. Currently,
over 35,000 chefs are already benefitting from this
online tool. Will you be next?

Creating with building blocks and
smart technology
The Gastronomixs team continuously creates new components.
There are new recipes added to the platform every week. All those
tried-and-tested recipes save you thousands of hours (!) of testing.
And it’s not only recipes, the platform also gets more and more
attractive because of newly added tech features.
Users repeatedly mentioned that they adjust components on
Gastronomixs, often after printing the recipes and scribbling on them.
Cooking is, of course, evolving on each other's recipes. Less sugar,
a different fruit coulis... just to name two examples. So a few months
ago, Gastronomixs launched a new feature that makes it possible to
create variants on component recipes! This gives chefs even more
flexibility in working with the ever-expanding recipe database of
Gastronomixs. In 2024, a plethora of new and exciting features are set
to launch, so be sure to stay tuned for these upcoming enhancements!

133

134

Confit chicken with roasted
thyme and chickpea miso
mayonnaise
The base of this dish is the confit chicken leg, which is pickled with oregano and ras el hanout. These are rich aromatic flavours that enhance the flavour of
the chicken. We add a fresh salsa of kohlrabi, cucumber and pickled red onion, and a jalapeño pepper. Finished with the mayonnaise of burned thyme and
chickpea miso, which adds a huge dose of umami! On top, we place a pani puri, which we fill with a foam of chickpeas and tahini.

Jalapeño oil
A powerful oil that highlights the spiciness of the
jalapeño pepper. Ideal to use in a mayonnaise or
simply to boost your salad.
Makes 1l.
Ingredients
● 500g jalapeño
● 50g parsley
● 1l neutral oil
Preparation method
● Cut the jalapeño into rings.
● Blanch the jalapeño 3 times. Change the
water, after each blanching.
● Whirl the jalapeño, parsley, and neutral oil
in a thermomix on full power for 7 minutes.

Lemon thyme oil’
This oil is child's play, but makes for a very fresh,
slightly savoury oil. Can be used in both savoury and
sweet dishes
Makes 600 ml.
Ingredients
● 80g lemon thyme
● 600ml rapeseed oil
Preparation method
● Place the lemon thyme on low heat with
the rapeseed oil.
● Heat the oil to 85°C and remove from the
heat.
● Cover the pan with cling film and leave
covered for at least 12 hours.
● Strain the oil and store in the refrigerator or
freezer.
135

Scan me...

...and a digital, culinary
world opens up for you!

recipes
Apricot, Honey, Thyme
& Almond Tart
Recipe by Thibault Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les vergers
Boiron
White Peach & Vanilla
Flower Recipe
Recipe by Thibault Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les vergers
Boiron
Poached and scorched cherry
tomatoes with strawberry
pearls. Whipped yuzu tofu, pickled
shallots and feather tops
By Chef Steve Walpole
Roasted cannon of lamb with dried
Tahoon cress powder crumb, puree
of butternut squash with salty
fingers, asparagus, citrus Tahoon
cress butter
Planifolia Vanilla panna cotta
with Yka leaves Glaze, Sansho
leaves macerated fruits
By Chef Steve Walpole

137

138

APRICOT, HONEY, THYME
& ALMOND TART
Recipe by Thibault Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les vergers Boiron
Recipe for 1 Silikomart Ring Bloom Tart 18cm and 5 Silikomart
Ring Bloom Tartlets 8cm

APRICOTS ROASTED
WITH HONEY & THYME
● 500g IQF Apricot Halves Les
vergers Boiron
● 120g Flower Honey To Taste
Thyme

Melt the gelatin mass with a portion
of the apricot cream. Smooth the
remaining apricot cream. Add the
melted gelatin mass/cream. Whisk
together. Gently fold in the whipped
cream. Pipe the mousse into flower
molds. Smooth and freeze.

METHOD

APRICOT GLAZE

INGREDIENTS

Heat the honey in a pan. Add the
apricot halves and caramelize
with the thyme. Cool. Set aside for
assembly.

APRICOT CREAM
INGREDIENTS

SWEET PASTRY

ALMOND CREAM

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

●
●
●
●
●

●
●
●
●
●

150g Butter
120g Icing Sugar
60g Eggs
300g T55 Flour
2.5g Fine Salt

75g Almond Powder
75g Butter
75g Brown Sugar
75g Whole Eggs
7.5g Cornstarch

METHOD

METHOD

In the bowl of a stand mixer, using
the paddle attachment, cream
the butter with the icing sugar.
Gradually add the eggs. Sift the
flour and salt, then add to the
mixture. Mix until homogeneous.
Wrap in plastic wrap and
refrigerate for 2 hours. Roll out the
dough to 1.8mm thickness, then
line the tart rings. Refrigerate for
30 minutes before blind baking at
180°C until lightly golden.

In the bowl of a stand mixer,
using the paddle attachment,
mix the almond powder with the
butter and brown sugar. Add the
whole eggs. Finish by adding
the cornstarch. Pipe a layer of
almond cream into each tart shell
and bake at 175°C until golden.

METHOD

● 250g Apricot Puree Les
vergers Boiron
● 75g Water
● 7.5g Lemon Puree Les
vergers Boiron
● 95g Granulated Sugar
● 5.5g NH Pectin
● 16.5g Cornstarch
● 45g Butter

METHOD
Mix the powders together.
Heat the purees with the water.
Gradually incorporate the powders
and boil for 2 minutes. Off the
heat, cool to 50°C and add the
butter. Blend with an immersion
blender and cool quickly. Set aside
for assembly.

APRICOT MOUSSE
INGREDIENTS
● 500g Apricot Cream
● 24g Gelatin Mass
● 400g Whipped Cream

INGREDIENTS
● 300g Apricot Puree Les
vergers Boiron
● 10g Pectin Slow Set
● 100g Granulated Sugar
● 25g Glucose
● 20g Invert Sugar
● 120g Gelatin Mass
● 5g Citric Acid
● 5g Water

METHOD
Heat the puree. Add the glucose
and invert sugar. Mix the sugar and
pectin together and incorporate into
the hot mixture. Boil the mixture.
Then add the gelatin mass and the
citric acid/water solution. Blend
with an immersion blender and
refrigerate.

ASSEMBLY
Blind bake the tart shells. Pipe the
almond cream into each shell and
bake at 175°C. Allow to cool. Roughly
chop the roasted apricot halves. Add
them on top of the almond cream
and smooth as much as possible.
Freeze. Unmold the apricot mousses
and glaze them. Place each one
on top of a tart shell. Pipe a dollop
of whipped cream in the center of
each flower and decorate with fresh
thyme and edible flowers.

139

WHITE PEACH & VANILLA
FLOWER RECIPE
Recipe by Thibault Marchand,
Corporate Chef - Les vergers Boiron

For 16 pieces

SWEET DOUGH

VANILLA GLAZE

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

●
●
●
●
●

●
●
●
●
●

●
●
●
●

50g Butter
40g Icing Sugar
20g Whole Eggs
100g T45 Flour
1g Fine Salt

250g Heavy Cream 35%
25g Granulated Sugar
½ Black Planifolia Vanilla Bean
25g Egg Yolks
18g Gelatin Mass

METHOD

METHOD

Cream the butter until smooth.
Mix with icing sugar and salt. Add
the eggs. Finish by adding the
flour. Let rest for 20 minutes in
the refrigerator. Roll out between
two sheets of parchment paper
to 1.8mm thickness. Cut out 4cm
diameter disks. Bake in a fan
oven at 170°C until golden brown
between two Silpain mats.

Scrape and infuse the vanilla into
the cream for 12 hours. Make a
custard. Add the gelatin mass.
Cool quickly and let rest for 24
hours. Whip the cooled cream
until smooth and creamy.

GENOISE SPONGE
INGREDIENTS
●
●
●
●
●

140

VANILLA CREAM

125g Almond Powder
125g Whole Eggs
25g T45 Flour
2.5g Cornstarch
20g Butter

WHITE PEACH CREAM
INGREDIENTS
● 125g White Peach Purée Les
Vergers Boiron
● 37.5g Water
● 3.75g Lemon Purée Les
Vergers Boiron
● 45g Granulated Sugar
● 2.75g NH Pectin
● 8.25g Cornstarch
● 15g Butter

METHOD

METHOD

In a food processor, mix the
almond paste. Gradually add the
eggs. Sift the flour and cornstarch.
Add to the previous mixture and
mix. Finish by adding melted butter.
Spread onto a baking sheet lined
with a silicone mat. Bake in a fan
oven at 170°C until golden brown.

Heat the purées with water. Mix
all the powders together. Add the
powders to the hot liquid while
stirring. Boil for 2 minutes. Cool
to 40°C, add the diced butter, and
blend with an immersion blender.
Fill 16 cavities of the “Truffles 20”
mold from Silikomart and freeze.

100g Water
150g Granulated Sugar
150g Glucose
100g Sweetened
Condensed Milk
● 70g Gelatin Mass
● 150g White Chocolate
● 1 Vanilla Bean

METHOD
Cook the water with sugar and
glucose to 103°C. Add sweetened
condensed milk, gelatin mass,
grated chocolate, and scraped
vanilla beans. Blend with an
immersion blender and reserve
for assembly.

FINISHING
Whip the vanilla cream and pipe
it 2/3 full into each cavity of the
“DAISY 60” mold from Silikomart.
Insert a sphere of white peach
cream. Pipe vanilla cream again and
place a biscuit disk on top. Freeze.
Heat the vanilla glaze. Unmold each
dessert and glaze them. Temper
white chocolate. Spread thinly on a
guitar sheet and cut out 16 flowers
using the “Daisy” stencil. Spray the
chocolate flowers with a pink spray
gun. Place a pink flower on each
dessert. Finish by adding a gold leaf
in the center.

141

POACHED AND SCORCHED CHERRY TOMATOES
WITH STRAWBERRY PEARLS. WHIPPED YUZU TOFU,
PICKLED SHALLOTS AND FEATHER TOPS
By Chef Steve Walpole
FOR THE WHIPPED YUZU TOFU
INGREDIENTS
● 150g silken tofu
● 20g yuzu juice

METHOD
Place ingredients into a blender to a smooth
paste. Place into a pipping bag

FOR THE STRAWBERRY PEARLS
AND DRESSING
INGREDIENTS
●
●
●
●

80g strawberries whole
30ml rapeseed oil
5g grain mustard
Poaching liquid from tomatoes

METHOD
Using a small scoop ball tiny strawberry pearls
from each strawberry
Use the trimmings from the strawberries
and place into a high speed blender with the
poaching liquor, mustard and oil. Blitz to a
smooth dressing

FOR THE PICKLED SHALLOT RINGS
INGREDIENTS
Makes 4 portions

FOR THE POACHED TOMATOES
AND DRIED TOMATO SKINS
INGREDIENTS
● 8 of each colour cherry tomato (red,
yellow,green)
● 20g feather top stems chopped
● 1 punnet melissa cress
● 20g shallots diced
● 1g peppercorn
● 2g salt
● 100ml water

142

METHOD
Place the water in a pan with the melissa
cress, feather top stalks, shallots, salt and
peppercorns and bring to a simmer. Allow to
reduce slightly, Then leave to infuse for 1520 mins. Pass through a sieve
In boiling water blanch the tomatoes for
8-10 seconds then plunge into ice cold water.
Remove the skin and place in a dehydrator at
50c for 2 hours until crisp and dried
Place 4 of each colour tomatoes into the
poaching liquor and allow to macerate for 20
mins
Meanwhile using a blow torch scorch the
other tomatoes to give them colour

● 1 shallot
● 15ml rice wine vinegar
● 5g sugar

METHOD
Slice shallot into rings (trimmings for poaching
liquor) place int a bowl with the vinegar and
sugar and allow to pickle for 10 -15 minutes

TO PLATE
Pipe 5 nice rounds of the tofu, then place
alternate tomatoes (colours, poached and
scorched) in between the tofu, scatter over the
strawberry pearls and shallot rings, drizzle over
the dressing, some herb oil and garnish with
feather tops

143

ROASTED CANNON OF LAMB WITH DRIED TAHOON
CRESS POWDER CRUMB, PUREE OF BUTTERNUT
SQUASH WITH SALTY FINGERS, ASPARAGUS, CITRUS
TAHOON CRESS BUTTER
By Chef Steve Walpole

144

Makes 4 portions

FOR THE LAMB

FOR THE BUTTERNUT
PUREE

INGREDIENTS
● 2 small lamb cannons
● 6 punnets of Tahoon
cress
● 8g Oryx salt
● 40ml Rapeseed oil

METHOD
Using scissors, cut out the
tahoon cress from the punnet
and place onto a dehydrator
tray until dried and crisp. Then
place in a grinder and blitz to
a fine powder
Trim the lamb cannons so no
fat or sinew. Then season.
Remove the Tahoon cress
seeds and heat the oil into a
pan add the seeds and allow
to cook for a minute then
sear the lamb cannons in the
Tahoon cress oil so lightly
coloured and sealed. Then
place in the oven at 160c until
the lamb reaches 56c then
remove from the heat and
rest, then roll in the Tahoon
cress powder and slice

FOR THE TAHOON
BUTTER AND
VEGETABLES

INGREDIENTS
● 300g butternut squash
skinned and seeds
removed
● 2 garlic cloves
● 50g crème fraiche
● 4g oryx salt

METHOD
On a tray in foil place the
butternut squash and garlic
into the oven at around 150c
and bake for 30 -40 mins
until softened and little colour
Remove from the foil and
then in a blender blitz the
garlic and butternut with the
crème fraiche and salt
Keep warm

INGREDIENTS
● 1 pack of salty fingers
● 12 spears of small
asparagus tips
● 150g salted butter
● 10g lemon juice
● 1 punnet of Tahoon cress
cut

METHOD
Bring some water to the
boil and then blanch the
asparagus and salty fingers
for a minute to just cooked
slightly then remove and drain
In a sauté pan melt the butter
and allow to bubble then
add the Tahoon cress and
vegetables and the lemon

TO PLATE
Place some puree onto the
plate with slices of lamb, salty
fingers and asparagus then
spoon over the butter sauce

145

146

PLANIFOLIA VANILLA PANNA COTTA
WITH YKA LEAVES GLAZE, SANSHO
LEAVES MACERATED FRUITS
By Chef Steve Walpole

FOR THE PANNA COTTA

FOR THE YKA LEAVES
GLAZE

FOR THE SANSHO
LEAVES POACHED FRUIT

INGREDIENTS
●
●
●
●
●

250ml double cream
150ml milk
60g sugar
1 planifolia vanilla pod seeds
4 leaves of gelatine

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

●
●
●
●

●
●
●
●

100g sugar
200g water
10g YKa leaves
3 leaves of gelatine

METHOD

METHOD

Warm the cream and milk with the
vanilla and sugar until the sugar
has dissolved
Soak the gelatine in cold water
until softened then squeeze out
and stir into the cream mix until
melted
Pour into moulds and then leave
to set in the freezer. Remove from
mould

Warm the sugar and water until
the sugar has dissolved add the
YKO leaves until at allow to sit
until the liquid has turned a vibrant
pink then remove the leaves and
melt in the gelatine and cool to
blood temp
Place the panna cotta on a cooling
rack over a tray then pour the
glaze over each one until coated
evenly then set again in the fridge

200g sugar
100g water
3g sansho leaves
Strawberries, raspberries,
blackberries, red and white
currents, sanscho leaves

METHOD
Place the sugar and the sansho
leaves into a grinder and blitz to a
fine powder
Place into a pan and dilute with
the water and warm until sugar
has dissolved
To plate - Once the panna cotta
has been place into a bowl plate
decorate the fruit around and pour
over the stock syrup and garnish
with the sansho leaves
147

MONDAY
10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee Morning
with a Difference”
11.00 – 11.45
Tom Shepherd, Chef Patron,
1 Michelin starred Upstairs
Restaurant, Lichfield - Live
Cooking Demo
11.45 – 12.15
Adam Smith, 1 Michelin starred
Woven, Coworth Park chats
about his Great British Menu
journey
12.15 – 13.00
Adam Handling MBE, 1 Michelin
Starred Frog, Covent Garden
joined by Gastronomixs for 4
Hands Cooking Demo
13.00 – 13.30
Mark Sargeant, The Restaurant
MS, Folkestone and David
Mulcahy chat all things
competing
13.30 – 14.15
Jennifer Collins and Sally Abè
from The Pem Live Cooking
Demo
14.15 – 14.45
Ahead of their 40th anniversary.
Martin Carabott 2018 Roux
Scholar and Head Chef, 1
Michelin Hide Restaurant on
how the Roux Scholarship
changed his life

HRC 25 - 27 March, London ExCel

14.45 – 15.30
Jeremy Besson cooks with the
Caviar chosen by 3 Michelin
starred chefs around the globe.
Joined by representatives from
Kaviari for a tutored Caviar Tasting
15.30 – 17.30
Food Heroes Meet and Greet
Chat with Iconic Chef, Pierre
Koffmann
Social Session - networking,
afternoon drinks and canapes

Glynn Purnell

Sam Dixon

Lisa Goodwin-Allen

Tom Brown

Pierre Koffmann

TUESDAY
10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee
Morning with a Difference”

Adam Handling

Tom Shepherd

11.00 – 11.45
Galton Blackiston, Chef
Patron 1 Michelin starred
Morston Hall with Will
Buchanan from Gressingham
Duck
Live Cooking Demo
11.45 – 12.15
Spirit of Hospitality Crew
chat about their recent
adventure rowing the Atlantic
for Hospitality Action

Spirit of Hospitality

WEDNESDAY

Jenny Collins

Ioannis Grammenos

Galton Blackiston

13.30 – 14.15
YNCOTY Winner 2023 Sam
Dixon and Lisa GoodwinAllen from 1 Michelin starred
Northcote Manor.
Sam recreates his winning
dish and reflects on his
recent trip to Norway.

Sally Abè

Adam Smith

Simon Hulstone

11.45 – 12.30
Tommy Banks, Chef Patron,
1 Michelin Star, The Black
Swan joins chefs’ legend
Mitch Mitchell, founder of
Yorkshire-based TRUEfoods
– the home of the finest
quality fresh stocks and
broths and global supplier to
Michelin chefs
Live Cooking Demo
12.30 – 13.15
Kerth Gumbs, Head Chef
Fenchurch Restaurant, Young
MasterChef Judge and GBM
Live Cooking Demo
13.30 – 14.15
Ioannis Grammenos
Executive Chef & Meatologist
- Heliot Steakhouse and Matt
Owens, head of culinary,
Alliance cook and talk about
the World’s Best Steak!

14.15 – 14.45
Norwegian Seafood
Discussion Panel
14.45 – 15.30
Simon Hulstone, 1 Michelin
starred, The Elephant,
Torquay
Live Cooking Demo

10.00 – 11.00
Join us for a “Coffee morning
with a Difference”
11.00 – 11.45
Glynn Purnell, 1 Michelin
starred Purnells Restaurant
Birmingham - the first star in
the city of Birmingham
Live Cooking Demo

12.15 – 13.00
Tom Brown from 1 Michelin
starred Cornerstone,
Hackney and the newly
opened Pearly Queen
Live Cooking Demo
13.00 – 13.30
George Hersey, Group
Restaurant Director, Adam
Handling group and feature
writer, Chef & Restaurant
interviews leading UK
sommeliers to chat
trends, innovations and
relationships with kitchens.

George Hersey

Mark Sargeant

15.30 – 17.30
Meet and Chat with Very
Special Guests
Social afternoon session
- drinks and canapes
from Norwegian Seafood
prepared by Simon Hulstone

Kerth Gumbs

Tommy Banks

David Mulcahy