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ALL THE TRIMMINGS
These vegetable-forward side dishes
from Woodcut’s Ross Lusted threaten
to steal the show.
Zucchini flowers, brown rice,
tomato, vine leaves and yoghurt............107
Cos lettuce with kimchi and
sesame dressing.........................................107
Food
96
CROWNING GLORY
From an upgraded classic to standout
seafood, these supernova centrepieces
will make your table shine.
Spiced coral trout with eggplant ezme...... 98
Prawns with basil verde and seared
scallops with ponzu pickled cumquats . 99
Gochujang-glazed ham
with roast cherries ......................................100
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.
Dry-brined five-spice roast turkey ............. 100
The
festive
issue
White peaches and cherries
with walnut tarator..................................... 108
Whole-roasted cauliflower with
caramelised pine nuts and raisins ........ 109
Potato and mushroom gratin with
fried sage and black garlic butter ...........110
Crusted giant green olives with ’nduja ......110
Roast sweet potato with chickpea
miso and seaweed salt ..............................112
Baked ricotta with lentil vinaigrette,
mustard fruits and rocket ..........................113
114
SWEET & SLOW
Stick the landing with this collection
of show-stopping festive desserts.
Barbecued lobster with lemongrass,
makrut lime and palm sugar.................... 102
Gingerbread yoghurt cake with
burnt-orange caramel.................................116
Blue swimmer crab cocktail
with avocado cream .................................. 103
Peach and Champagne jelly with
crème fraîche panna cotta ........................118
Scorched-honey parfait with hazelnut
dacquoise and agrodolce cherries ........119
Mango and lemon verbena trifle with
verjuice jelly and salted-lime meringue 121
Cardamom-pistachio pavlova with
rose cream....................................................122
Spiced pineapple Christmas cake with
rum-lime icing ..............................................123
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
9
DECEMBER 2023
ON THE COVER
Prawns with basil verde and
seared scallops with ponzu
pickled cumquats, p99
Recipe Clare Maguire
Photography Ben Dearnley
Styling Vivien Walsh
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Drinks
41 DRINKS NEWS New openings and expert tips.
44 FUEL FOR THOUGHT Ned Goodwin’s top drops.
46 SUMMER DRINKING Samantha Payne’s guide.
Features
72
SOMETHING SPECIAL
Our editors single out the travel moments that
took their breath away in 2023.
74
76
81
COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR
Whether treating yourself or someone else,
these books promise to inspire and delight.
LIFE LESSONS
Chefs reflect on the joys, experiences and
takeaways of 2023.
2023 GIFT GUIDE
GT’s colour-coded wish list for the cool, the wild
and the bon vivant in your life.
Travel
128
BEST OF BALI
Tried and tested by our
editors, this is our definitive
guide to luxe Bali stays.
Regulars
PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD BRYANT (BULGARI RESORT BALI).
17
31
32
35
52
55
126
136
146
154
10
UPFRONT Editor’s letter and news.
A QUICK WORD Otis Hope Carey.
THE KITCHEN GARDENER Sour cherries.
REVIEW Dining out.
MASTERCLASS Bûche de Noël.
EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals.
THE ART OF TRAVEL Breaking traditions.
CHECKING IN Warders Hotel, Fremantle.
STYLE Fashion, beauty and home.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE Serving dishes.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
138
ITALY BY SEA
Katrina Holden cruises the Mediterranean Sea with
port stops in Italy on board Crystal Serenity.
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Details p88
oconut water. That’s my big lesson of 2023.
Drink it before, after, and during your next
summer celebration – over ice. You’ll thank
me for it, I swear. It may not be the most
profound takeaway of the year but it’s serving me well.
I only wish I’d known about it ahead of my last silly
season, when the combination of stress, excitement
and a propensity to overcommit saw me limp to the
new year.
Last year, my so-called Christmas break (which
nearly broke me) saw me up at 6am on Christmas Eve,
curing a side of salmon, preparing two kilograms of
scampi – and three dipping sauces – and about to start
on a gingerbread semifreddo, while nursing the rude
after-effects of a very long lunch with some of my oldest
friends. It was about three hours into the process that
it dawned on me, none of the people I was catering for
(several aged under 12) could care less what I served up.
They were just happy I was there; my first Christmas
home since 2018. I quickly ditched the semifreddo
plan and instead added a few spices to four litres of
quality store-bought vanilla ice-cream, which I refroze in
a Bundt tin and served the next day to trills of delight.
In this issue, you will find all manner of delicious,
decadent and elaborate festive feasts, which will bring
joy to all who share them. But only if those making
them are still smiling when they are served.
Be kind to yourself and stay hydrated – and have
yourself a very merry Christmas!
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Everyday Cookbook
From simple suppers to easy
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GT-tested recipes promises to
impress without the stress.
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DECEMBER
Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER
Establishment 203,
Brisbane
p
24
C E L E B R AT E
IN STYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY.
W Sydney opens its doors, preChristmas restaurant openings, and
taste-testing the season’s best hams.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
21
T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A
SYDNEY
Clockwise from above: Itō’s dining
room; koji chicken, thyme tare and
sides; Penelope’s head chef
Bremmy Setiyoko (left), general
manager Lee Potter Cavanagh and
owner-chef Cuong Nguyen.
22
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
A new wave of Sydney restaurants is
refusing to be tied to a single cuisine.
Instead, these gastronomically nonmonogamous openings are
incorporating delicious techniques
without borders. In Surry Hills, Itō takes
up two levels in the former Cuckoo
Callay site. Inside, you’ll find chef Erik
Ortolani (ex-Cho Cho San) doing clever
takes on Japanese-meets-European
snacks. Gyoza wrappers are repurposed
as delicate ravioli parcels, piped with rich
duck meat and served with a brown
butter sauce, undercut by ponzu and
sansho pepper; while yellowfin tuna is
both diced finely and sliced and served
neatly across a light bread cracker,
seasoned with lime and salty bottarga.
The room is elegant and intimate yet
playful and bright, and will entice you to
linger longer. Good news since the meal
wraps ups with airy-light bitter-sweet
mousse perfumed by hojicha (tea) with
golden orbs of custard-filled doughnuts;
joined by sake and Whisky Highballs.
In the CBD, chef Khanh Nguyen has
taken on a broad Asian brief at King
Clarence. Co-owners Brent Savage and
Nick Hildebrandt (who are already
behind an impressive swag of Sydney
stalwarts including Bentley Restaurant
& Bar, Monopole, Yellow, Cirrus and
Brasserie 1930) lured Nguyen back to
Sydney for the executive chef role.
Nguyen, who worked with The Bentley
team seven years ago, is happy to return
to the fold. “They’ve both been amazing
mentors for me and I’m so excited to
work alongside them once again.” King
Clarence will take its culinary cues from
China, Japan and Korea. The restaurant
will boast a custom-built barbecue and
grill. Plus, there will be a large live
seafood tank reminiscent of Sydney’s
old-school Chinese restaurants, past and
present. In line with all Bentley Group
venues, King Clarence will have an
extensive wine program, with current
Cirrus Dining sommelier Polly Mackeral
taking on the role of head sommelier.
In Circular Quay, Penelope’s is also
eschewing single-territory cooking, with
chef Cuong Nguyen hoping to challenge
the definition of Australian cuisine.
Located in Quay Quarter tower, the
132-seat venue sees him shift focus from
his Vietnamese heritage (which you can
find already at Nguyen’s other diners
Hello Auntie, Hey Chú and Fugo) to
a broader remit inspired by growing up
in Sydney. “Don’t call us ‘fusion’ at
Penelope’s; we’re simply passionate
about sharing our authentic Aussie
experience”, says Nguyen. The menu
will be led by head chef Bremmy
Setiyoko (ex-Spice Temple and Sepia)
with dishes such as bakar chicken,
brined overnight then roasted on low
and slow; served with garlic toum and
a lemongrass sambal.
PHOTOGRAPHY JIWON KIM (ITŌ) & CHAD KONIK (PENELOPE’S).
R E S TA U R A N T N E W S
News
PHOTOGRAPHY HUGH DAVISON (PINCHO DISCO) & JASON LOUCAS (VUE DE MONDE).
MELBOURNE
Melbourne’s sky-high fine-diner Vue de
Monde has reopened after a threemonth refresh. Perched 55 floors above
Melbourne’s CBD, Vue de Monde and
sister bar Lui dazzle with fresh interiors,
a brand-new chef’s tasting menu and the
same spectacular city views. But it’s not
just a cosmetic lift, with the menu also
undergoing considerable change during
the restaurant’s three-month closure.
There are still inflections of creative
director Shannon Bennett on the 18-plate
tasting menu, alongside executive chef
Hugh Allen’s innovations that reflect his
commitment to Australian provenance:
grilled lamb sweetbreads with asparagus
and fermented macadamia sauce;
padrón peppers filled with heirloom
eggplant cooked in wild nasturtium oil,
and marron tail slowly grilled with fried
native herb paste.
In more casual revamps, St. Cloud
Eating House in Melbourne’s Hawthorn
East has welcomed a menu re-do from
chef Jerry Mai. A reimagining of the
Vietnamese menu sees Mai add more
small plates (including grilled scallops
with wild onion butter and nuoc mam;
and seared sticky lamb ribs) alongside
a refreshed cocktail menu.
Over in Collingwood, a new day-tonight dining destination with Latin
American tunes, tipples and sticky
snacks has opened. Pincho Disco may
be an unlikely combination of terms
(pincho meaning stick or skewer and
disco referring to the music style as
much as the club vibe) but together they
form a lively late-night dining and
cocktail spot on Cambridge Street.
Latin America will serve as the expansive
brief for Pincho Disco, with chef Diego
Cardenas taking over the Josper oven
Left: Hiramasa kingfish,
sweet miso, wasabi,
finger lime furikake at
King Clarence. Above: a
spread at Pincho Disco.
and woodfire-powered kitchen. The
Colombian-born chef worked extensively
across Spain and Peru before coming to
Australia and will use this time to inform
the menu. Cardenas plans to devote
a section of the menu to the venue’s
namesake skewers. “Then [we’ll do]
a ceviche (raw fish cooked in tiger’s
milk), aguachiles (a Mexican-style
ceviche) and crudo, done with octopus,
snapper, kingfish, snapper, scallops and
more,” he says. This lighter, snackier part
of the menu is ideal for quick bites
across the two-level venue joined by
cocktails, or for whetting the appetite
before diving into the larger meatfocused plates.
Culinary director Jake Furst is excited to
bring his experience in dry-ageing meats
to Pincho Disco. “I have a love for
dry-aged meats and steaks – we focused
on the dry-ageing program at Cinder in
Fitzroy,” says Furst, speaking of a nearby
venue in the wider Kickon Group,
a collection of 10 kitchens which he
oversees. “We’re expecting to have
rump caps – like a Brazilian cap – then
we’ll have grass-fed wagyu and 600 to
700 gram T-bone, so plenty of options
whether there’s two of you or a big
group.” The grills will also serve
vegetarians with a golden Argentinianstyle wood-fired cheese. “It’s a cheese
that gets a bit of crust but it’s still
soft inside – then we’ll serve it with
a beautiful herb salad,” says Cardenas.
Clockwise from below: Vue de Monde’s private
dining room; avocado tart; chef Hugh Allen
(left) and general manager Hugo Simoes.
News
Clockwise from above: self-serve
coffee taps at Single O; Single O’s
new café at Newstead; the grill at
Bosco; and char-grilled prawns;
the bar at Establishment 203.
Newstead welcomes two new venues
to its culinary ranks, starting with
industrial wine bar and grill Bosco.
Sommelier Simon Hill (who is also
behind New Farm’s Bar Alto) has
opened the 80-seater in a converted
warehouse, complete with lofty sheer
curtains, brick walls and salvaged
timber benchtops. Referencing the olive
oil regions of Europe, the menu shines
a spotlight on coastal dishes such as
pig’s trotter flambadou oysters (an
eye-catching technique which involves
dousing the bivalves in melted down fat
from a red-hot cast iron cone); coral
trout with pil-pil sauce (a Spanish salted
cod and garlic emulsion); and pipis with
txakoli (a dry Basque wine), all served
alongside Hill’s tome-like wine list. Also
one of Australia’s most loved adopted
Spanish snacks – the gilda – will kick
off the menu, showcasing Cantabrian
anchovies, olives and peppers, served
alongside oven-cooked flatbreads.
Next door, Sydney’s excellent specialty
roaster Single O brings its signature
self-serve coffee taps and flagship
reservoir blend to an edgy, light-filled
café. Taking cues from its southern
counterpart, the concise menu brings
much-loved staples to Brisbane (try the
banana bread with espresso butter) side
by side with locally sourced produce
including Agnes Bakery’s flaky pastries
and smoked potato bread.
To round things out, Establishment
203 is executive chef Ben O’Donoghue’s
flash new steakhouse in Fortitude Valley.
Styled by interiors expert Tamsin
Johnson, expect elevated booth seating
in an open dining area, joined by
a 30-seat bar for casual eats. The
restaurant’s owners – cattle-farming
family and beef producers Stanbroke
– are working closely with O’Donoghue
to showcase the best of Queensland’s
grass-fed beef. Order up a tomahawk,
bistecca alla Fiorentina and rib-eye
Angus beef; bone-in eye fillet or sirlon
wagyu, joined by a classic béarnaise,
chimichurri, or borolo-spiked
hollandaise. The rest of the Italianleaning, carnivore-ready menu is
stacked with wood-fired starters (such
as bone marrow caponata with potato
flatbread; and peppers alla Piemontese)
and handmade pasta (including a wagyu
Bolognese); plus sorbets and gelatostuffed brioche to finish.
WORDS KAYLA WRATTEN (BOSCO & ESTABLISHMENT 203). PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK MCKENZIE (SINGLE O) & PETRINA TINSLAY (ESTABLISHMENT 203).
BRISBANE
News
Clockwise from
left: the dining
room at BTWN;
the W Sydney
façade; fried
chicken ribs, salt
and pepper Bay
lobster and pork
belly kakuni bao
buns at BTWN.
WORDS CHARLOTTE WISHART (W SYDNEY). PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (BTWN).
WONDER WORLD
Wonder no longer; it’s finally here. The largest of the W Hotel
family (with 588 rooms, suites and an IMAX) has opened in
Sydney after a long build period plagued by Covid and
administrative delays. It’s sleek, it’s bright, and it’s glamorous;
a tall, wave-like monolith erupting between two ribbons of
busy CBD highway, breathing fresh life into the hibernating
Darling Harbour precinct.
Many a Sydneysider has wandered by the build site in its
various stages, catching a glimpse of the reflective exterior
glimmering through cracks of the city, and pondered what
splendour was wrapped up inside that shiny façade. And in
typical W fashion, extravagance drips from every detail.
From the gold honeycomb feature wall framing the escalator
that escorts guests from ground to lobby, to the glistening
rooftop infinity pool that seamlessly blends into harbour
views, it all presents as a small slice of Las Vegas glitter
brought Down Under.
In-house restaurant BTWN, open from breakfast to dinner,
is led by Aria and The Blue Door alum Chris Dodd, whose menu
incorporates a hyper local focus. Dodd sourced three small
greeneries and CBD-based kitchen gardens to hand deliver
produce in a bid to minimise carbon emissions. That produce
shines on the menu in dishes such as crisp tempura eggplant,
or bright nasturtium leaves and seablite garnishing impossibly
tender octopus.
And if you fancy a change of scenery for dessert,
Singaporean pastry master Janice Wong’s first Australian
venture, 2am Dessertbar, is just across the floor. Choose
between a creative dessert dégustation (with the choice
to add matching wines) for serious sweet tooth, or a lighter
à la carte for more casual players.
Marriott’s W Sydney is now open for bookings; rooms
start from $550 per night; www.marriott.com
Three of Caribbean Cruises’ boldest ships have arrived in Australia,
ready for a huge 2024 season departing from Sydney and Brisbane.
Alongside bumper itineraries, these ships focus on serving up punchy
bites from day to night, with restaurants including Chinese-inspired
eatery the Hot Pot, Jamie’s Italian by Jamie Oliver, Japanese bistro
Izumi or steakhouse Chops Grille. royalcaribbean.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
25
News
FAMILY MEETINGS
Clockwise from above: take-home
goods at G. McBean Family Butcher;
Gary McBean at his slick new
premises; and in-house chef adds the
finishing touch to a steak sandwich.
26
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
As intergenerational artisans become a rarity, Melbourne butcher Gary
McBean is doubling down on his family’s legacy with the relaunch of his
industry-leading butcher in Prahran Market.
Joined by his daughter and butcher Ashleigh McBean, McBean has
reclaimed his father’s original market position to open G. McBean Family
Butcher, in recognition of the craft passed down from his father, Ken McBean,
(also a butcher’s son and grandson). “When the same spot within the market
that my family used to trade from became available, albeit bigger and better,
I jumped at the chance to take it on,” says Gary. Formerly operating down the
hall as Gary’s Meats, an Attica supplier, the butcher has scored a nose-to-tail
makeover, complete with its own smoker and dry-ageing room, alongside
an in-house chef preparing cooked meats, sandwiches and smallgoods.
With five generations of butchers in the family – they’ve seen some of the
biggest trends come and go – and also have a solid understanding of what
meat means to Melbourne. “When my dad started as a butcher at 14 in 1952,
the industry was very different,” says Gary. “Some of today’s favourite cuts
such as chuck steak, beef cheek and osso buco were considered pet meat.
Then the introduction of European dishes such as French cassoulets, beef
Bourguignon, lasagne and Bolognese, changed the perception of these
cuts,” says Gary.
More recently he’s seen the advent and appreciation of dry-aged meat.
“Dry-aged meat and an understanding of how to prepare and age it properly
was largely forgotten in Australia but has been done for hundreds of years
in Europe,” says Gary. In its new premises, a devoted dry-ageing room will
ensure the craft is continued.
The fresh digs will lay claim to the perfect steak sandwich (with some
help from cult-favourite Melbourne bakery, Baker Bleu), alongside hot dogs
and porchetta rolls, plus a smoked ham and mustard croissant. “For this
Christmas, we will be smoking all our own hams, bacon, and a range of
other sausages and smallgoods. This is something we have never been
able to do before, and we’re super excited about.” gmcbean.com.au
GLAZED CHRISTMAS HAM
THE NIGHTINGALE AND THE ROSE BY DEL KATHRYN BARTON/COURTESY GOMA.
PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN BENSON (FEATHER AND BONE) & MARK ROPER (MEATSMITH).
SUMMER BLOCKBUSTERS
Dive into the whimsical and witty world
of Fairy Tales at the Gallery of Modern
Art in South Brisbane. This summer
exhibition weaves together centuries of
folk stories through contemporary art
and immersive installations from visual
storytellers. Explore bravery, justice and
loyalty through the works of artists like
Yayoi Kusama, Anish Kapoor, Abdul
Abdullah, Del Kathryn Barton and more.
Costumes, puppets, film props and story
books are just some of the objects on
display, joined by a free curated film
program. From $28, qagoma.qld.gov.au
1
2
THREE TO TRY
CHRISTMAS BONANZA
Social enterprise Two Good Co and gelato maestros
Messina are coalescing for a cause this Christmas
with a feel-good Christmas cracker. Ditch the plastic
toys in place of a Christmas bon bon that provides
one meal to a woman in need, plus a scoop of
Messina gelato (with the voucher good for a year).
$75 for six, twogood.com.au
1
3
Meatsmith
Andrew McConnell’s meat providore smokes rare
breed pork over smouldering woodchips (made
from Yarra Yering red wine barrels) for this bone-in
beauty. It comes with a Meatsmith ham glaze, and
you can also add on a bottle of Yarra Yering red wine
in a gift box. Delivery available across Victoria.
From $280, meatsmith.com.au
2
Omeio Artisanal Deli
This Paddington deli de-bones and rolls
Australian pork before it is cooked and smoked.
An in-house glaze locks in the flavours, and being
boneless it makes it easy to deliver and means you
get more from your ham. Delivery available across
New South Wales. $195, omeio.com.au
3
Feather and Bone
Pasture-raised pigs are the focal point for these
Marrickville and Waverley butcheries. Hams are
lightly smoked to show the pork’s flavour, and you can
also request for the skin to be removed and ham
scored. You can also add on an optional Malfroy’s Gold
honey and Wildflower ale-fuelled glaze. Glazed pick-up
only, and unglazed available across New South Wales.
From $218, featherandbone.com.au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
27
News
SPICE JOURNEY
O N T H E PA S S
with TONY GIBSON
We chat to the new executive chef at Ace Hotel Sydney and its
lobby restaurant Loam.
You didn’t get into cooking until you were 24. How did the love
affair begin? I always liked it, and I did cooking classes in junior
school. But I was a bit flash when I was younger, and thought
I wanted a job that came with a company car and a briefcase.
I was working in a sales job and was out for lunch with a training
officer one day, and she said to me, “Is there anything that you
wish had been different when you left school?” and I said you
know what, I wish I’d done cooking. And that was on a Thursday,
and by the end of the week I’d handed in my notice and was
enrolled at the local college in cooking classes.
You got your start as a chef in London. What kind of
restaurants were you working in there? My first job was in
London at the Intercontinental Hotel, where I realised after some
time that I really didn’t want to work in hotels. Which is very ironic
now. But that feeling was the catalyst to get into restaurant work.
I then worked with Gordon Ramsay for several years until I went
to Dubai for him to open his first restaurant over there, Bere.
After Dubai, I came to Sydney and really hit my stride, working
with Jason Atherton at Kensington Street Social, Lennox Hastie
at Firedoor and Mark Best at Marque.
Eresha De Zoys always wanted to bring
more of her Sri Lankan heritage into the
kitchen, but often found Australianbranded spices to be lacklustre. She
decided to take matters into her own
hands, calling upon her family’s direct
connections as fourth-generation spice
merchants to create Lord & Lion.
Curating both spice boxes – which
capture the must-have spices of Indian
and Sri Lankan cooking – alongside
sauces and chutneys, the range focuses
on single-origin spices. By creating
“farm to jar” batches, the spices retain
potency and freshness, unlike larger
spice brands, which often sit in
warehouses for long periods of time.
From $6, lordandlion.com
How have you curated the menu at Loam? Loam means “from
the earth”, and that’s the kind of philosophy we try to bring out
in the kitchen. We’re very local produce focused and the menu
is veg-forward, so I’ve honed in on that. The food is designed to
be shared with lots of small veg plates and bigger proteins like
Bannockburn chicken and Margra lamb, but we’ve also made
sure to accommodate solo diners and guests, with steak frites
or a katsu mushroom burger.
loamsurryhills.com.au
28
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
HONKERS RAISES THE BAR
The annual Asia’s 50 Best Bars scours the continent
for the finest places to drink and this year Hong Kong
topped the list. Taking the number one spot for three
consecutive years was COA, an Oaxacan-inspired bar
in Central. Other winners included Argo, a slick cocktail
bar inside the Four Seasons Hotel; and Penicillin, one
of Hong Kong’s first totally sustainably focused bars.
Whatever your style is, Hong Kong’s bars are waiting
for you to explore. discoverhongkong.com
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (TONY GIBSON).
After saying you’d never work in a hotel restaurant again, why
did you decide to go to Ace? It’s important to the Ace brand that
you don’t feel like you’re in a hotel when you’re in one of its
spaces. It’s a really cool venue, where each space works
independently of each other, and exists as different restaurants
or bars without that sterile hotel feeling encompassing it all.
The move to Ace and Loam just felt right.
A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n
STEP
INSIDE
“Fairytales take us
out of our regular
lives into imagined
adventures, allowing
us to consider
difficult topics and
offer resolutions,
all within the
safety of fiction.”
Curator Amanda
Slack-Smith
Be transported to a magical world
where fairytales come to life at
a new exhibition at GOMA.
O
nce upon a time, in an immersive exhibition
at Brisbane’s Gallery of Modern Art,
there was a fairytale world where folklore,
enchantment and stories from childhood
intertwined with art and film. ‘Fairy Tales’ – on from
December 2, 2023, to April 28, 2024 – is an exclusive-toQueensland exhibition that will take you on a journey
to rediscover these enduring stories through the lens of
contemporary artists, designers and filmmakers. Explore
how food plays a part in this cherished folklore – think
Alice in Wonderland, Snow White and Little Red
Riding Hood. Look out for the motifs of mushrooms,
pumpkins, apples and more as the 100-plus works
transport you. Whether you’re three or 93, you’ll be
captivated. Tickets $10-$28; family and season ticket
passes also available. Visit qagoma.qld.gov.au/fairy-tales
Clockwise from top left:
1. Urs Fischer / A–Z 2019 / Collection: Lisa
and Danny Goldberg © Urs Fischer / Image
courtesy: the artist and Gagosian / Photograph:
Stefan Altenburger Photography, Zürich.
2. Yayoi Kusama / Pumpkin 1992 / Purchased
1996 / Collection: QAGOMA / © Yayoi Kusama.
3. Promotional image from Mirror Mirror
2012 (detail) showing ‘Yellow dress with hood’
costume / Director: Tarsem Singh © 2012 UV
RML NL Assets LLC. / Photograph: Jan Thijs.
4. Hans Christian Andersen / Ballerinas
in a corked bottle. Christmas tree
cutting for the Ørsted family c.1850s-70s /
Collection: Museum Odense, Denmark.
Pink
Prosecco Balls
MORE
THAN THE
ANNUAL
LYNX GIFT
PACK.
REAL. GOOD.
Memories
OR
D WIT
H
C
QUI K W
Interview CHARLOTTE WISHART
OTIS HOPE
CAREY
A
The Gumbaynggirr artist talks about
the therapeutic nature of action,
creative beginnings and cooking
from the sea.
I can remember walking around [as a child] with
a turtle leg as a dummy. We grew up bush. I grew up in
an Aboriginal family and we were always practising cultural
hunting ways. [The turtle leg was] just something that elders
would give us to keep us occupied. A natural dummy –
it was also a way of making sure there was no waste
of the animal.
Hunting, catching and cooking from the sea during the
summer is the cultural pattern I’ve followed from my
family. Growing up, we didn’t really eat much from the
ocean during winter, and hunted more from the land. But in
summer, we’d live off what the ocean provided. In summer
I eat a lot of fruit. Just today I ate an entire watermelon.
It’s such a refreshing piece of fruit after a long surf.
PHOTOGRAPHY SAM BISSO.
Cooking is very therapeutic to me. I love it. One of the
meals we’ve been making recently [involves] collecting
a whole lot of pipis from the mangroves and mudflats
around Brunswick Heads [in NSW] and cooking them up
with some mud crabs – with oil, butter, maybe some chilli.
We recently did an amazing fresh mud crab linguine, which
I caught and then cooked for my family.
Gaggal is one of the key inspirations behind a lot of my
work. I’ve always had strong ties to the ocean, the water.
Before I got into painting, one of the only releases for my
mental health was surfing. I was going through a period of
depression in my early 20s when my therapist pointed out
that I was always talking creatively, pulling ideas through
a creative lens. She suggested I start exploring that side of
myself ... I’d never really considered painting before. So
I picked up a brush and things just started to grow from there.
I went to Singapore recently to do two big murals for the
new Capella hotel. Singapore is one of the best culinary
countries I’ve ever been to. The food there is amazing; it’s
so diverse and vital. I came home and went to Melbourne
for another mural. I try to bring [my family] as often as I can
– it helps me feel more grounded.
I use traditional symbols from Aboriginal culture but bring
a more modern take to the style in which I create them.
With the watch straps [I created for] Longines, I chose
specific colours to reflect different headlands, certain rocks
that stick out around the water, certain flowers that gather
around the shoreline. When I paint, I just kind of sit and think
and let it all flow through me. And then I get to a point where
I can apply those feelings, the movement, to canvas and just
let it flow out of me... No matter what I’m working on, the
designs just seem to happen quite naturally.
In my language we refer to the ocean as gaggal. Gaggal
is one of my clan’s totems on the Gumbaynggirr side, and
Longines x Otis Hope Carey “Nato” watch straps
are available now via longines.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
31
T
KITC
E
H
HEN GARD
EN
ER
Sour cherries
Sweet cherry’s cousin is the key to kirsch, Black
Forest and strudel, writes SIMON RICKARD.
L
ast year I wrote about sweet cherries, the delectable baubles which
usher in the stone fruit season, and the summer holidays. However,
there is another kind of cherry, less well known. If you have ever
eaten confectionery (or, indeed, cough medicine) described as
“cherry” flavoured, and thought to yourself “this doesn’t taste a bit like
cherries”, that is because it is flavoured not with the familiar sweet cherry,
but with sour cherries.
Sour cherries don’t get much of a look-in in this part of the world.
Perhaps the sobriquet “sour” sounds too daunting for westernised palates,
raised on sweet, unchallenging flavours. However, sour cherries are highly
regarded in Europe and the Middle East, where their distinct aroma is well
recognised and liked.
Sour cherries are smaller, harder, and a brighter red than sweet cherries.
Their dense, astringent flesh is not pleasant to eat raw, but it’s the serious
cook’s choice, cooking to a rich, almond-perfumed mash. Sweet cherries are
better eaten fresh, but watery and insipid when cooked. They are not a good
substitute for their sour cousins in most recipes.
32
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.
Grow your own
Simon is a
professional
gardener,
author and
baroque
bassoonist.
@simon_rickard
Sour cherries probably first appeared in the
region between the Black and Caspian Seas,
eventually making their way westward to Europe,
and south to the Middle East, via Persia. They
became popular in every region they came into
contact with, for desserts, liqueurs, and as an
accompaniment to meats.
The famous Black Forest gateau features
stewed sour cherries, and the colourless liqueur
made from them, called kirsch. Under German
law, a cake which does not contain kirsch may
not be labelled a Black Forest gateau. Many
European countries have their own version of
sour cherry liqueur, including ginjinha in Portugal
and visinata in Romania.
In Belgium, Kriek beers are made from sour
cherries. In France, sour cherries macerated in
kirsch are used as an accompaniment to meats
and cheese. Italian Amarena gelato is made with
heirloom Amarena sour cherries, while in Greece
and Slavic nations, sour cherries are candied and
preserved, served as “spoon sweets” with coffee.
The further east you travel, the more celebrated
sour cherries become. Maraschino cherries and
liqueur were originally made using a variety of sour
cherry from Marasca, in Croatia. In Hungary, sour
cherry strudel called “meggyes rétes” is a staple, as
is cold sour cherry soup, served with sour cream.
Ukrainians love varenyky dumplings stuffed with
sour cherries.
The crushed kernels of Mahleb sour cherries
are used as a spice in the eastern Mediterranean,
through the Middle East. As with all stone fruit
seeds, the almond-like aroma of mahleb comes
from poisonous hydrogen cyanide. However,
they are safe when consumed in moderate
quantities, as a spice.
Last year I warned of the difficulty of growing
sweet cherries, which are prone to an abundance
of pests and diseases. Sweet cherries are a fruit
best left to the experts. However, I am pleased to
report that sour cherries are a relative doddle
to grow at home.
Only two varieties are readily available in
Australia and New Zealand; Kentish and Morello.
Both are self-fertile, so you only need one tree to
get a crop. They are naturally compact and
shrubby, just three metres in height and width, but
easily kept smaller with appropriate training. They
are healthy, vigorous, and heartbreakingly beautiful
when festooned in crisp, white spring blossom. Just
remember to protect your crop, or birds could strip
your tree within hours.
Sour cherries are almost never seen at farmers’
markets, and never in supermarkets. If you want to
cook with sour cherries, it is absolutely worth
growing this wonderful, versatile, and beautiful
fruit at home. ●
Sour cherries are a relative
doddle to grow at home. They
are healthy, vigorous, and
heartbreakingly beautiful
when festooned in crisp,
white spring blossom.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
33
DECEMBER
Hellenika
PHOTOGRAPHY JOSHUA MAGUIRE.
p
39
Dining out
This month, we visit a Brisbane
beauty post-refresh, road-trip to
the Eyre Peninsula, and scope
out two hip new openings in
Sydney and Collingwood.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
35
Q
CK LOO
K
UI
50 Pitt St (entry via
Macquarie Pl),
Sydney, NSW
fundasydney.com.au
CHEFS Jung-Su Chang
& Chris Kim
OPENING HOURS
Lunch and dinner
Mon-Sat
E
NEWCO
BOOKINGS
Recommended
M
VERDICT
Jumpin’, jumpin’
ER
TH
PRICE GUIDE $$
Sydney,
NSW
FUNDA
At a new Korean hotspot in Sydney’s CBD,
the level of creativity is as high as the
decibel count, writes MATTY HIRSCH.
T
he first three letters of Funda’s
name spell out in no uncertain
terms what sort of energy it’s
looking to convey. Should they not
make it clear enough, the restaurant’s
entrance will: an LED-lit tunnel
screening aerial footage of the Seoul
skyline ushers you in. Sensory overload
continues in the dining room, courtesy
of a spinning mirror ball, fluorescent
perspex panes that frame the open
kitchen and a DJ spinning Destiny’s
Child tracks at ear-splitting volume.
Simply put, there’s a lot going on at
this glitzy 120-seater – so much so that
it’s almost tempting to write off the
place as a magnet for TikTok-savvy
twentysomethings. Peel back the
nightclub atmospherics, however, and
you’ll find an unexpected degree of
refinement and consideration beneath
36
Clockwise from left: Funda’s bar;
and crudité with anchovy ssamjang
and light sour cream.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
the hyper-stimulating surface.
A left-field gin Martini, for instance,
spiked with miso, pickled kelp and fried
kimchi oil. Bottles of Burgundy and
vintages of Tyrrell’s Vat 1 semillon on
a wine list that pays equal mind to icons
and obscurities. Service that reinforces
a contagious level of enthusiasm with
knowledge and attentiveness.
Then there’s the “fried seaweed
roll”, which sums up the menu’s modus
operandi. It’s a play on gim-bugak,
wherein a log of scallop-and-prawn
mousse gets wrapped in a perilla leaf
and sheet of laver, coated in rice flour
and deep-fried. The pay-off here lies
in the precision, the piping hot
temperature and hearty crunch; how
brightly the freshness of the shellfish
shines, drawn out even further by
a yuzu-kosho and soy dipping sauce.
If a pattern is at work here, it’s
to start with a familiar Korean dish,
take it apart, then put it back together
using classic European technique and
off-script ingredients from all over the
map to make it sparkle anew. Note how
pine nuts – an integral part of yukhoe,
or beef tartare – are whizzed into
a foam and used to coat the handchopped meat, imparting toasty and
buttery character.
Other dishes, though no less
successful, almost defy categorisation
altogether. Bibimmyun trades fresh
vegetables and gochujang for cured
bluefin tuna and a woodsy mushroom
sauce, resulting in a gratifying bowl of
springy cold rice noodles that’s vaguely
Japanese. Properly fatty sweet-andsour lamb riblets would fit right in at any
natural wine bar, just as the pleasantly
savoury jujube cake on a scatter of
kataifi could easily pass for a modern
Middle Eastern dessert.
It pays to know that both executive
chef Jung-Su Chang and head chef
Chris Kim bring fine-dining chops to the
pass; the former fresh from a four-year
post at Seoul’s two-Michelin-starred
Jungsik, the latter an alumnus of
Tetsuya’s and Sepia. They may be
cooking at Sydney’s loudest restaurant
right now, but their ingenuity is
generating noise all of its own, nudging
Korean cuisine’s steady trajectory
onward and upward. ●
UI
CK LOO
Clockwise from left: agnolotti with
globe artichoke and spring garlic;
Commis co-owners Daniel Docherty
and Adina Weinstein Melder.
K
Q
Review
56-58 Johnston St,
Collingwood, Vic
commis.com.au
CHEF
Gabriel de Melo Freire
OPENING HOURS
Dinner Tue-Sat
BOOKINGS
Recommended
WINE B
E
VERDICT Next gen
Gerald’s Bar
AR
TH
PRICE GUIDE $$
Melbourne,
Vic
COMMIS
The art of hospitality is on show with Gerald’s Bar
alumni forging something new and excellent,
writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
T
hat picture on the wall, near the
bar? The one that looks like
a Miró? It’s a real-deal lithograph
by the Spanish abstract artist. It’s also
a kind of Easter egg, a clue to the
something extra happening at Commis
distinguishing it from other shopfront
bars along this stretch of Collingwood.
As with the Miró, you might assume
the bar’s retro fit-out – terrazzo, warm
lighting, vinyl soundtrack, leather and
timber – is clever staging, designed to
resemble a storied neighbourhood bar.
It does, but it also has impeccable
genes, the real reason it feels so
established and venerable, despite
being mere months old.
Commis has direct lineage with
Gerald’s Bar, the Carlton North watering
hole that’s become the de facto
template for Melbourne’s
neighbourhood bars. Its three owners
– Daniel Docherty, Gabriel de Melo
Freire and Adina Weinstein Melder –
all did time at Gerald’s as did bartender
Tom Hope. Inevitably, some of Gerald’s
came with them. There’s the vinyl
soundtrack, fastidious cocktails,
a sharp, democratic wine list, quippy
switched-on service. It’s not a copy
though, more shared DNA.
That’s certainly the case with de
Melo Freire’s menu. Like Gerald’s,
Commis’ menu is an ever-evolving
single-page list of Euro-ish, seasonally
and sustainably conscious dishes. But
there’s also a distinct quirkiness and
originality to it too.
Alongside the expected items on
any wine-conscious food menu –
oysters, pickles, charcuterie – Commis
offers excellent takes on staples like
croquettes (chicken soup-flavoured
ones must be ordered) or risotto, like
an earthy, textural triumph flavoured
with globe artichokes and spring garlic.
There’s great stuff for omnivores –
an excellent venison osso bucco, local
lamb strap served with caponata – and
joy for the non-meat crowd with dishes
such as a superb mushroom broth with
dumpling-like nettle gnudi or a salad
of broad beans, barley and pecorino
that leaves you feeling both satisfied
and virtuous.
Spend some time with the wine list.
It provides two ways into the always
interesting and regularly changing
cellar here – “Traditionalist”, listing
wines by variety and style or, flip the list
over, ”Expressionist” with wines listed
by mood (“It’s Been a Long Day”,
“Drinking with the In-laws”). It’s a fun
trick and a strong list, equally happy in
the Old and New Worlds. Both paths
lead to happy drinking.
Like the Miró on the wall, Commis
can be enjoyed without delving into its
provenance. Pay attention though,
savour the detail and authenticity of the
approach and you’ll get why there’s
nothing like the real thing. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
37
UI
CK LOO
K
Q
Review
31 Whillas Rd,
Port Lincoln, SA
peterteaklewines.com
CHEF
Mark Jensen
OPENING HOURS
Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Thur-Sat
PRICE GUIDE $$
BOOKINGS
Recommended
VERDICT
Worth the journey
STINA
Port
Lincoln,
SA
N
TH
Clockwise from left: Line and Label by
Peter Teakle Wines; Spencer Gulf bug.
T
IO
E
DE
LINE AND LABEL
As destination restaurants go, the Eyre Peninsula’s
oceanic influence and vineyard views make this
one for the map, writes KATIE SPAIN.
P
ort Lincoln is primarily known for
its fishing industry, azure ocean
views and a seafood bounty
that calls the deep blue home. There,
a moving feast of whiting, snook,
garfish, squid and tuna lure
holidaymakers and anglers to the
Eyre Peninsula, a seven-hour drive or
one-hour flight from Adelaide. Here,
Line and Label’s jewel in the crown is
a menu informed by the coast and
agricultural land around it. And given
the location, the sea-dwelling spread
makes sense.
Gazander oysters from nearby
Coffin Bay arrive topped with delicate
soy pearls and kale oil, that exemplify
the natural, fresh sea water-meetsbriny characteristics inherent to these
bivalves. House-made crackers are
38
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
a vehicle for Spencer Gulf prawn
rillettes, which see local prawns peeled
fresh, lightly steamed and then bound
with yuzu mayo and dill, and topped
with more mayonnaise and a pop of
caviar. Bluefin tuna belly is cured in
ponzu and briefly seared and arrives
perched atop a smooth wasabi and
avocado purée with lime juice, droplets
of pickled ginger gel, chilli threads and
furikake. It’s smoky and the fish is
delightfully fatty; like wagyu of the sea.
The five-course tasting menu and à
la carte offering also hit protein
heights with Mayura Station wagyu
flank 9+ and Penang duck curry, but
the jaw-dropping moment goes to the
arrival of a Spencer Gulf bug served
belly-up with a medley of soba
noodles, kohlrabi and sesame hidden
between its tail and folds. Once the
flesh is removed, it is rolled in white
pepper and togarashi flour then lightly
fried, before being returned to the
steamed shell. The labyrinth of
Japanese and Korean-inspired flavours
below what looks like a sea creature in
its natural state, delivers an impeccably
cooked wow moment.
Executive chef Mark Jensen was
born and raised in Queensland, and he
honed his skills in London, before
working at Brisbane’s Circa, Marco
Polo, and as executive chef at
Queensland’s Lizard Island and Qualia
Resorts. His arrival in Port Lincoln in
July 2021 has been a triumph for the
coastal town, and the Eyre Peninsula’s
first winery.
The restaurant’s sweeping patio is
a great place for a pre-dinner tipple
with views over the 400-plus fruit trees
and extensive garden beds. The wine,
spirit and cocktail list is also refreshing.
Coffin Bay Spirits Rare Coastal Gin is
a local hero, while Peter Teakle Wines,
including the Estate Rosé, Riesling
and Merlot start from $50 a bottle.
A well-curated Australian and
international spread are also kind on
the bank balance, think Giacomo
Fenocchio Barolo for $160. Service
is outstandingly slick, especially for
a regional area. The result is a journey
well worth making, especially for thrill
seekers of the sea-faring kind. ●
Q
CK LOO
K
UI
1st floor, The Calile Hotel,
48 James St,
Fortitude Valley, Qld
hellenika.com.au
CHEF Bryan Kelly
OPENING HOURS
Breakfast, lunch and
dinner daily
PRICE GUIDE $$
H
VERDICT
Palm Springs
meets Paros
EFRE
E R
S
H
T
BOOKINGS
Recommended
Fortitude
Valley,
Qld
HELLENIKA
This poolside gem has recently undergone a swift
renovation, reaffirming its status as one of Australia’s
finest Greek restaurants, writes ELLIOT BAKER.
PHOTOGRAPHY JOSHUA MAGUIRE.
T
Clockwise from left:
Hellenika’s Athenian
makaronada Moreton
Bay bug spaghetti;
cocktail hour;
char-grilled whole
snapper with warm
kipfler potato salad.
he restaurant business is all
about making decisions.
Perhaps the biggest one
Simon Gloftis made was to open
Hellenika at The Calile, essentially
closing his original Hellenika –
a bustling, cult-status taverna on the
Gold Coast – to try his luck at the
newly built James Street hotel in
Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley. Turns out,
home-style Greek and luxe surrounds
are a winning match.
On this visit, sunglasses are out
and the swimming pool is teeming
with hotel guests. And Hellenika is all
about the pool. It frames the
restaurant and provides both the
backdrop and entertainment. But
we’re here for the food. On cue, our
attention leaves the water for the
arrival of a raw fish plate, featuring
impeccably sliced kingfish, tuna and
ocean trout. Each fish is lightly
dressed with olive oil, lemon juice,
salt and pepper – leaving the fish to
shine simply and brightly.
In August, another big decision
was made: to close the restaurant for
a renovation. The most noticeable
change is the removal of the pool
fence between the pool terrace and
the sheltered dining area. Now
there’s a better view of the pool
wherever you sit. Other updates: new
crockery, kitchen improvements, and
a restructured menu.
Previously, seafood dishes had
their own dedicated menu. Now they
blend seamlessly with other offerings,
like kolokithia (zucchini chips), veal
dolmades and the timeless baked
lamb. This change aligns with Gloftis’
vision of ensuring seafood – which he
flies in from around the country daily
– isn’t forgotten about.
His dedication to freshness shines
through in the crisp flash-fried
calamari, enhanced with a squeeze of
lemon – so simple yet so thoroughly
Greek. Red Emperor bianco features
lemony potatoes, onions and sweet
fish that yields to the lightest touch of
a fork. Meanwhile, taramasalata is
creamy, salty and tangy, perfect for
slathering on thick slices of charred,
oregano-rubbed bread.
These are straightforward Hellenic
dishes best accompanied by a glass
of Greek libation. Perhaps a rosé made
from a rare variety called Limniona, or
a crisp and saline Assyrtiko.
Hands down, a poolside seat is
the most picturesque spot for lunch in
Brisbane. The restaurant’s sage green
umbrellas and pastel hues work
harmoniously with the design of the
award-winning hotel.
Meanwhile, a sweet and rich jumble
of crisp fillo, warm custard and lemon
syrup is a fitting finale for our Greek
odyssey. My only wish? That I was
staying at The Calile. Then I’d be able
to nab one of those daybeds and enjoy
a post-lunch nap. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
39
The Beer
From Up Here
Available Nationwide wherever good beer is sold.
DECEMBER
BE MERRY
’Tis the season for something special,
five minutes with a Sydney sommelier,
and our guide to summer’s best sips.
Botswana
Butchery
p
42
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
41
A SWEET IDEA
There are many ways to do our bit for the environment: choosing the right
drink bottle is one of them. Australian-made Worthy drink bottles are
100 per cent crafted from sustainably grown sugar cane. Melbourne-based
Angela Michel founded Worthy to make a positive impact on the planet.
The nifty creations are carbon negative, non-toxic, lightweight, dishwashersafe, fully recyclable, and 10 per cent of all profits go to Vision Rescue, which
helps abandoned women and children in Mumbai. worthyau.co
E D I T E D BY K AT I E S PA I N
DRINKS NEWS
TOP DROPS, NEW OPENINGS,
SPOTLIGHT ON
P i e r s H a s z a r d , s o m m e l i e r a t B o t s w a n a B u t c h e r y, S y d n e y
I grew up in New Zealand (but I was born
in Australia). After training and working as
a geologist, I found my way to hospitality. I
would talk to my winemaker brother about
wine and wondered how to translate the
technical aspects of wine to others.
42
AND INSIDE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS
Regionality drives Botswana Butchery’s
drinks menu. A key component is balance
so there is a wine for everyone. For every
international varietal/style, we try to have
an equivalent from NSW or Australia.
Producers that make my heart skip a
beat? Nick Spencer’s ability to produce
multi-varietal wines such as his MDR
(Medium Dry Red) that shows elegance
and power is fantastic. As for grape
varieties? Gamay is taking up a lot of my
time. From rich, rustic wines to light and
perfumed, gamay from all corners of the
world is on the rise.
My favourite wine- and food-related travel
destination is Central Otago, New
Zealand. It has the ability to combine great
wine, great food and skiing.
Minimal intervention wines becoming
cleaner is a positive trend from 2023.
That, and the growth of sub-regionally
specific wines becoming more accessible.
A wine that sticks out would be a
1987 Te Mata Coleraine. I had this with
a good friend in 2014 after a bit of bad
luck and the wine was perfect. It was still
showing fruit purity and was retaining
tannic structure. A perfect example of New
World wines being able to age gracefully.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
NOLO GO-TO
For anyone abstaining or cutting back on alcohol this festive season,
Via is a refreshing option. Sydney-based co-founders Sarah Morley
and Kiersten Mason created zero-alcohol canned cocktails spiked
with schisandra, L-theanine, Amazonian superfood guayusa, and
Australian wattle flower. There’s Sparkling Seventy Five (based on the
classic French Spritz), Sparkling Margarita, Sparkling Aperitif and
Sparkling Brut. viadrinks.com
CHRISTMAS CHEER
Look no further than Eileen’s Christmas Pud Gin for
a festive drop that warms the heart. Little Juniper
Distilling founder Stuart Mackenzie named his
creation after his grandmother Eileen Mackenzie
who won a gold medal at the 1955 Melbourne Royal
Show for her Christmas pudding. This is an ode to
her baking skills and the family’s much-loved recipe.
$100 for 700ml, littlejuniper.com.au
Drinks news
PLAN AHEAD
Marlborough Wine & Food Festival hits New Zealand’s South
Island in February, celebrating the famed wine country and the
beverages, food and people who make it tick. The day-long
program of events is held at Renwick Domain (15 minutes’ drive
from Blenheim) and includes live entertainment, food and wine
pairings and guest chefs. marlboroughwinefestival.com
PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD BRIGGS (MARLBOROUGH WINE FESTIVAL).
WELL-READ
Love exploration of the wine kind?
Some of the world’s best regions
are highlighted with 52 weekend
itineraries in the second edition of
Lonely Planet’s Wine Trails. These
include Mendoza (Argentina),
Central Otago (New Zealand),
Wellington, Swartland and Tulbagh
(South Africa), Adelaide Hills (South
Australia), Kakheti (Georgia),
Okanagan Valley (Canada), South
Downs (England), Drăgăşani
(Romania) and Empordà (Spain).
$39.99, booktopia.com.au
F R O M JA PA N , W I T H LOV E
Japan’s House of Suntory has released two new limited-edition whiskies as
part of its celebratory centennial range. The Hibiki 21-Year-Old (produced
with rare Mizunara oak) and a Hibiki Japanese Harmony (boasting a
limited-edition bottle design) honour a century since founder Shinjiro Torii
established Japan’s first malt whisky distillery in 1923. The Hibiki 21-Year-Old
is $8350 (700ml bottle), while the Hibiki Japanese Harmony clocks in at
$460 per bottle. For ultimate wow factor, the limited-edition Toki Suntory
Whisky gift carton designed by Japanese artist Tansetsu Ogino is also
available for $79. house.suntory.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
43
To p d r o p s
4
WINES
TO TRY
2020 Keller Tröcken
Riesling, Rheinhessen, $60
Klaus-Peter Keller is the
greatest practitioner of
dry riesling. Single site
expressions fetch meteoric
prices, yet the stepping
stone into the range remains
a brilliant curtain raiser.
Freshness melded to breadth.
Wild fennel, pebble stones
and orchard fruit accents
blaze brightly.
S
o here we are, at the pointy end of
the silly season again. Yes, again! This
is a time when many of us gush over
average quality Champagne and
pedestrian sparkling wine to vindicate
making it through one more year of our
lives by getting bombed. But you can do
that without my advice. Just scurry to the
discount bin. Of course, there are many
site-sensitive Champagnes boasting
compelling vinosity and a textural thread
worth weaving in the mouth. Yet
Champagne is no longer the bastion of
value within the fine wine sphere that it
once was. By all means buy as much
Vilmart or Egly-Ouriet as you can,
both fantastic examples of the grower
Champagne revolution that has demarcated
wines of terroir from mass-market blends.
Better, let me steer your festive ship to
an island of contemplation. Here we can
ponder what life means, while sharing
gratitude for those that we love and for those
that love us. Hopefully this will bring a smile,
rather than the grimace impelled by the
forlorn pudding, at the centre of the table.
Quality wines emanate a power
considerably higher than ourselves.
Comprehending them, as with life, is
not necessarily the point. Relishing their
intangibles, however, is: their sense of place,
culture and beauty; each as chameleonic
as the family stories passed from one
generation to the next.
Ned Goodwin is a Master of Wine and wine communicator at Langton’s. @nedgoodwinmw
44
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
2020 Domaine BerthetBondet Savagnin, Côtes
du Jura, $82
I visited in 2003, before the
Jura became fashionable real
estate. A culture of farmers
hewn to small plots, volumes
and complex wines. Riveting
wines birthed by flor, the
benevolent yeast. Cardamom,
chamomile, curry powder
and cheesecloth.
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (MAIN) & KRISTINA SOLJO (PORTRAIT).
The festive season is a time for good wine and
reflection, writes NED GOODWIN.
AR Lenoble Intense
18 NV, $70
Lenoble is a family-owned
Champagne house of the
highest order, sited in the
Grand Cru commune of
Chouilly, the source of
powerful chardonnay.
Eighteen refers to the base
vintage, a foundation for
truffle, cinnamon, maple and
peach, with a whiff of brioche
across a rich, toasty finish.
SCAN TO BUY
Fuel for thought
AA Badenhorst Caperitif
Kaapse Dief Lot 9 NV, $50
A Vermouth of sorts, lost in
1910. A confluence of white
wine, spirit and herbs,
including Fynbos, a collective
8500 species from the Cape.
Little surprise Madrid, Buenos
Aires and Paris embrace
its sublimation of a Latin
fascination with transcendental
contemplation. Perfect when
slipping towards the abyss.
There’s a famous song from the late ’90s that begins with the line,
“Man, it’s a hot one” (Santana’s Smooth if you want to stream it),
and it’s that lyric that evokes the essence of summertime drinking
– bevvies that are all about keeping cool and quenching one’s
thirst. To me, that’s chilling a crunchy, vibrant gamay or trousseau,
paired with a backyard barbecue and a side of grilled beef.
Or Boxing Day banter that requires lighter and more refreshing
choices following a day of rich excess; think bubbles and ciders
to go with leftover ham sandwiches and cold potato salad.
GLASSWARE FROM WATERFORD. NAPERY FROM MAISON BALZAC.
SAMANTHA PAYNE presents her expert guide to
cool, thirst-quenching tipples for a long, hot summer.
Picnics +
beachside
beverages
This is where the spotlight is on the lowand non-alcoholic drinks, playing around
with easy (and recyclable) packaging and
delicious drops – always.
NV Dewazakura Saku Sparkling Junmai Sake,
Japan, $25 for 250ml
With sake being naturally lower in alcohol
because of its brewing process along with its
mini-bottle size, this is an excellent choice for
afternoon picnics watching the sunset. The
delicate floral characters, light bubble, and dry
finish of the sparkling sake pair beautifully with
sashimi, prawns and even the last-minute
thrown-together cheese board that inevitably
finds its way to the picnic rug. jimmurphy.com.au
TINA 3.0 Icebergs, $24 for 4 x 330ml
A drink that its creators call “a love letter to the
ocean” and made in honour of Sydney’s famed
Icebergs Bar and Grill’s 20th anniversary, you’d
be hard-pressed to find a drink more deserving
of the moniker “summer in a can”. Energising
ginkgo, sacred lotus, saltbush and pink guava
create the foundations for this tea-based
beverage with the ripe guava notes creating
a beautiful counterbalance to the more saline
and savoury elements. tinadrinks.com
Homegrown Pink Hibiscus Spritz,
$25 for 750ml
Nothing screams summer like a Spritz and
Homegrown’s is a lively, booze-free version
teeming with raspberries and some bitter
orange characters, alongside the quintessential
tart florals found in hibiscus. It’s crafted with
a combination of rhubarb, pomegranate, pink
hibiscus and native strawberry gum – just add
slices of crisp watermelon out of the Esky at
the beach. homegrowndrinks.com
NV Dr Loosen Dr Lo Riesling, Germany, $25
In a world of very average low- and no-alcohol
wines, this riesling from one of the world’s best
riesling winemakers is the benchmark example
of how sans-alcohol wines should be made.
Perfectly balanced between citrus and jasmine
floral flavours with bright lemon-balm acidity.
A must-have addition to that tray of oysters you
picked up at the fish markets. cellarhand.store
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
47
Backyard
barbecues +
casual
entertaining
Summer is the time to bring out
the crunchy, chilled reds with
your grilled meats, the aromatic
whites for the oysters, and
bubbles with everything.
GLASSWARE FROM FAZEEK AND MAISON BALZAC.
Westward Pinot Noir Cask Single Malt
American Whiskey, Oregon, USA,
$155 for 700ml
Backyard entertaining is often when
you get to show off your cocktail skills,
but you want to strike a balance
between something delicious that you
can whip up quickly and something
that impresses. Try it in a New York
Sour with lemon juice, bitters and red
wine. nicks.com.au
48
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
2023 Orbis Trousseau,
McLaren Vale, SA, $40
I’ve never been shy about expressing
my love of a chilled red – the chill on
lighter grape red varieties such as
trousseau from Orbis bring vibrant red
fruit characters to the forefront of the
palate. The garnet plum, blood orange
and hints of earthy spices in this wine
would be enhanced by a dish of
barbecued lamb with a za’atar spice
crust and roasted beetroot yoghurt.
orbiswines.com.au
2023 Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc,
Margaret River, WA, $28
Chenin blanc is always an MVP for
entertaining, with its apple and
poached quince characteristics along
with its inherent minerality and
delicate acidity. From last-minute guest
drop-ins to long alfresco lunches, this
organic number from 45-year-old
chenin vines is a standout.
voyagerestate.com.au
2017 Coldstream Hills Blanc de
Blancs, Yarra Valley, Vic, $45
This highly awarded sparkling is
exceptionally good value and an
excellent entertaining wine, with its
complex layers of creamy baked bread
notes, with a touch of lemon meringue
pie and oyster shell minerality. Just
add homemade burgers and rustic
sweet potato fries to let the wine’s
buttery elements shine.
coldstreamhills.com.au ➤
Nothing screams summer
like a Spritz and
Homegrown’s is a lively,
booze-free version teeming
with raspberries.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
49
Boxing Day
Brunch
Wines (and wine-adjacent) with flavour
and vibrancy, these refreshing tipples
are perfect after a day of excess.
2021 Eric Bordelet Poiré Granit Cider,
Normandy, France, $60 for 750ml
This has been my favourite cider producer for
more than a decade. I buy it in three-litre kegs
to have a supply at home over summer. Using
pears from 300-year-old trees, the cider strikes
a balance between sweet juicy pear notes and
a crisp finish. When the thought of cooking is
too much, a glass of this with a toasted cheese
sandwich makes for a perfectly acceptable
dinner. unioncellars.com.au
2021 M&J Becker Manchester Vineyard
Chardonnay, Mendocino Ridge, USA, $80
Cold leftovers in the form of potato salad, ham
or turkey sandwiches with stuffing on Boxing
Day always equals chardonnay to me. This
outstanding Californian chardonnay from Hunter
Valley winemaker James Becker marries ripe
nectarine, buttered toast and orchard fruits with
hints of a saline minerality, making it just what
you need for a leftover buffet.
beckerwines.com.au
2022 Alpha Box & Dice X 004 Moscato,
Adelaide Hills, SA, $28
Moscato gets a bad rap from years of people
drinking sickly sweet styles but I’m not ashamed
to admit I adore them when made with craft
– this is one such example. It strikes a delicate
balance between rosewater and ginger blossom
notes, with a matchstick flint character that
drinks wonderfully with barbecued banana
prawns and curry leaf butter. alphaboxdice.com
50
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
GLASSWARE FROM FAZEEK AND MAISON BALZAC.
MV Nyetimber Rosé Sparkling, West Sussex,
United Kingdom, $120
A new inclusion to the sparkling wine offering in
Australia, Nyetimber has been at the forefront of
premium sparkling wine in England for more
than 30 years. The mandarin, cherries, pickled
pear and papaya characters in this wine make it
the ideal accompaniment to a brunch of waffles
with berries and fruit salad. nicks.com.au
wine a fleshier palate that is bursting at the seams
with red and blue fruits. The kind of gift you hope
will be shared with you once open. nicks.com.au
Gifting
special
+occasions
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.
Whether you’re looking for a special drop
to ring in the New Year or searching for a
present for the hard-to-buy, these bottles
promise to delight.
Hibiki Harmony Whisky, Japan, $290 for 700ml
The word Hibiki means “resonance” which
embodies the soul of the Japanese craftsmanship
that goes into blending this exceptional whisky.
Using more than 10 malts and three grains with 20
years of age to create a harmonious (thus the
name) whisky that exhibits characters of the
famed Mizunara Japanese oak alongside notes of
cloves, orange and honeycomb. A truly special
whisky from three generations of master blenders
at Suntory. danmurphys.com.au
2019 Rippon Mature Vine Pinot Noir, Central
Otago, New Zealand, $90
For hard-to-impress pinot noir lovers look no
further than this incomparable “Mature Vine”
release from Rippon. The added age gives this
2022 Moo Brew Barrel Aged Stout, Tas,
$49 for 4 x 330ml
Moo Brew has done it again, capturing Christmas
in a bottle with the second release of its barrelaged stout. Aged for 12 months in French and
American oak casks to give complexity, texture
and velvety chocolate notes perfect for the beer
aficionado in your life (or for glazing a ham).
moobrew.com.au
NV André Clouet Silver Brut Nature,
Champagne, France,
$175 for 1.5-litre magnum
There’s a saying in the sommelier community,
“magnums show commitment” and for the
special occasions throughout summer
nothing says you’re committed to a good
time more than a Champagne magnum.
The “Silver” from grower-Champagne
house André Clouet is a 100 per cent
pinot noir bubbles making it perfect
for toasts or a long lunch.
fivewaycellars.com.au ●
Bûche de Noël
Roll up this fresh take on
a traditional yule log, with fresh
raspberries and pistachios.
52
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Masterclass
T
he Italians call it tronchetto di Natale, while the English say yule log. But this traditional festive dessert originated
in France, where it is called a bûche de Noël. Its log-like sponge represents the medieval tradition of burning the
trunk of the Yule tree through the 12 days of Christmas. In this iteration, the creamy chocolate spread and
addition of raspberries makes it a little lighter (but just as decadent) for an Australian climate.
2
3
200 gm raspberries, plus extra to serve
Chocolate shards and slivered
pistachios, to serve
and fluffy (6-8 minutes). Meanwhile, stir
sugar and 1½ tbsp water in a small
saucepan over high heat until sugar
dissolves, then bring to the boil without
stirring. With motor running, add hot
syrup to eggs and whisk on medium
speed until mixture cools and holds
a thin ribbon (6 minutes).
CHOCOLATE SPONGE
RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING MAX ADEY.
3
80
60
30
eggs, at room temperature
gm caster sugar
gm plain flour, sifted
gm Dutch-process cocoa,
plus extra for dusting
20 gm butter, melted
CHOCOLATE CREAM
100 gm each dark and milk
chocolate, chopped
70 gm unsalted butter, softened,
chopped
250 gm cream cheese, at
room temperature
300 ml thickened cream
Step by step
SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 11/2 HRS // COOK 20 MINS
(PLUS RESTING, COOLING)
1
For sponge, preheat oven to 180˚C
fan-forced. Grease and line a 25cm
x 35cm Swiss roll tin or oven tray with
baking paper. Whisk eggs in an electric
mixer on medium-high speed until light
2
Sieve in flour and cocoa, fold to
combine, then fold in butter.
Spread batter evenly in prepared tray
and bake until sponge springs back
when gently pressed (8-10 minutes).
3
Carefully turn out onto a clean tea
towel lined with baking paper and
dusted with cocoa and peel baking paper
off base of sponge. Loosely roll sponge in
tea towel, starting from a long edge, and
leave to cool (30 minutes).
4
Meanwhile, for chocolate cream,
heat chocolate in a heatproof bowl
over a saucepan of simmering water,
making sure the bowl doesn’t touch
water and stir frequently until melted
(5 minutes); remove from heat and
5
cool. Place butter in bowl of an electric
mixer and beat on medium-high speed
until smooth (30 seconds), then add
cream cheese and beat on low speed
until combined. Gradually add melted
chocolate and beat until smooth; then
add cream and beat until soft peaks form
(5 minutes). Stand chocolate cream at
room temperature until ready to
assemble. (Do not refrigerate).
5
To assemble, using a small offset
spatula, spread two-thirds of cream
evenly over sponge, leaving a 2cm
border along a long edge. Scatter
raspberries evenly on top of cream,
then roll cake up slowly.
6
Using a long spatula, transfer cake
to a platter. Spoon remaining
cream over the bûche de Noël. Scatter
with chocolate shards, extra raspberries
and slivered pistachios.
TIPS Roll sponge while still warm as this
shapes the cake for the final roll and
stops it breaking. Liberally coat baking
paper with cocoa to stop sponge sticking.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
53
DECEMBER
Keep things light and bright this month with these fresh and
simple recipes that do double duty as festive side dishes.
VEGETARIAN
GLUTEN FREE
DAIRY FREE
Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling LUCY BUSUTTIL
Recipes JESSICA BROOK
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
55
Everyday
Marinated heirloom tomatoes and stracciatella
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS MARINATING)
1
1
¼
1
1
1
60
2
800
tsp finely grated ginger
garlic clove, crushed
tsp chilli flakes
tbsp finely chopped chives
tbsp finely chopped mint
golden shallot, finely chopped
ml (¼ cup) rice wine vinegar
tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
gm heirloom and oxheart
tomatoes, sliced
300 gm stracciatella (see note)
Charred sliced baguette and mint
leaves, to serve
56
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
1 Combine ginger, garlic, chilli, herbs,
shallot, vinegar and oil in a small bowl.
Season to taste and stir to combine.
2 Arrange tomatoes on two large
plates. Drizzle over half the dressing,
refrigerate to marinate (15 minutes).
3 To serve, top with stracciatella,
remaining dressing and scatter with
mint. Serve with toasted bread on
the side.
Note Stracciatella, the stretched curd in
burrata mixed with heavy cream, is
available from specialty greengrocers
and cheese shops.
PRODUCE TIP
Look for tomatoes that are
firm but yield slightly
to gentle pressure. They
should have vibrant colour
(yellow, red or green) and
a fragrant aroma.
Fig and radicchio salad with spiced
nuts and labne
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
150 gm thinly sliced round pancetta
8 small figs, halved
1 radicchio, leaves separated and torn
Labne and basil, to serve
SPICED NUTS
200
½
¼
1
gm mixed unsalted nuts
tsp ground cinnamon
tsp chilli flakes
tsp each ground cumin and
smoked paprika
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp maple syrup
DRESSING
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
2 tbsp Sherry vinegar
1 tbsp maple syrup
½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. For spiced nuts,
combine ingredients in a bowl, drizzle
with a little oil, season to taste and toss
to coat. Spread in an even layer on
a large baking tray lined with baking
paper. Bake until golden and
caramelised around the edges
(10-15 minutes). Set aside to cool.
2 Meanwhile, place pancetta on
a separate baking tray lined with baking
paper. Bake until golden and crisp
(10-12 minutes). Set aside to cool.
3 For dressing, combine ingredients in
a small jar. Close lid and shake until
combined; season to taste.
4 To serve, arrange radicchio leaves
and figs on a large platter. Top with
torn pancetta and spiced nuts and
basil. Serve with labne and drizzle
with dressing. ➤
MAKE IT YOURSELF
To make labne, line a fine sieve
with muslin or a clean Chux cloth
and set over a deep bowl. Spoon
250gm Greek-style yoghurt into
the sieve. Fold edges up and tie
to secure. Refrigerate overnight
to drain. Transfer to a bowl
and discard liquid; keep
chilled until ready to use.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
57
Everyday
Beetroot and ham salad with
sour cherry dressing
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS
4 beetroot (200gm each), trimmed
4 each baby golden, red and target
beetroot, trimmed
80 gm picked baby frisée
400 gm leftover Christmas ham, torn
Micro red vein sorrel, to serve
SOUR CHERRY DRESSING
1
60
1
1
1
2
tbsp cherry jam
ml (¼ cup) lemon juice
tbsp Sherry vinegar
tsp pink peppercorns, lightly crushed
golden shallot, finely chopped
tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Wrap each large
beetroot in foil and place on a baking tray.
Roast until tender when pierced with
a skewer (30-40 minutes). Set aside to
cool; peel and quarter.
2 For sour cherry dressing, combine
ingredients in a bowl, season to taste
and whisk to combine.
3 Thinly slice baby beetroot on
a mandolin. Place in a bowl and drizzle
with 2 tbsp dressing to lightly pickle.
4 To serve, arrange beetroot, baby frisée,
ham and sliced beetroot on a platter.
Scatter with micro red vein sorrel and
drizzle with extra dressing to serve.
SWAP IT OUT
This salad works equally
well with any number
of leftovers, including
turkey, chicken or duck.
Everyday
Brown butter-roasted
carrot salad
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS
80
4
90
2
3
gm unsalted butter, chopped
garlic cloves, crushed
gm (¼ cup) honey
tbsp white wine vinegar
bunches mixed baby heirloom
carrots, washed, trimmed, carrot tops
reserved
400 gm can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
1 cup (firmly packed) rocket leaves
2 cups (firmly packed) picked
watercress
CARROT-TOP DRESSING
¼
¼
80
1
cup carrot tops
cup (loosely packed) tarragon leaves
ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
small garlic clove, crushed
1 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Place butter in
a small saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, swirling in pan, until foaming and
nut brown (3-4 minutes). Take off heat,
add garlic, honey and vinegar and mix
to combine.
2 Halve carrots lengthways and place in
a single layer on a large baking tray lined
with baking paper. Drizzle over butter
mixture and season to taste. Roast until
golden and tender (20-25 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, for dressing, combine
ingredients in a blender and blend until
smooth; season to taste.
4 Serve carrots, topped with chickpeas,
rocket and watercress. Drizzle with
dressing to serve. ➤
JAZZ IT UP
A healthy serve of goats
cheese or marinated feta
scattered over this salad will
amplify both the flavour
and texture of this dish.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
59
Everyday
Watermelon, cucumber and duck salad
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
1 Chinese roast duck (see note), skin
removed, meat shredded
4 green tomatoes, sliced
500 gm sliced watermelon
250 gm baby cucumbers, coarsely
chopped
1 cup (loosely packed) coriander and
mint leaves, plus extra to serve
40 gm salted peanuts, coarsely chopped
Crisp shallots, to serve
LIME AND SESAME DRESSING
1 tbsp gochujang
1 tsp finely grated lime zest
Juice of 2 limes
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp kecap manis
60
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
1 Preheat oven to 200 °C. Place duck
pieces and skin on an oven tray lined with
baking paper and roast until warmed
through and skin is crisp (6-8 minutes).
2 For lime and sesame dressing,
combine ingredients in a small bowl and
whisk to combine.
3 Arrange tomato, watermelon,
cucumbers, coriander and mint on a large
platter. Top with duck and crispy skin.
Drizzle with dressing and top with
coriander, mint, peanuts and shallots
to serve.
Note Chinese roast duck is available from
Chinese barbecue shops.
PRODUCE TIP
Baby cucumbers, also
known as cukes, can
be substituted with
regular cucumbers.
Potato, apple and watercress salad
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
1 kg baby potatoes, such as chat
4 eggs
2 cups (firmly packed) picked
watercress
1 large green apple, cut into julienne
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
TAHINI MAYONNAISE
20
1
60
75
60
gm finely grated parmesan
tbsp tahini, hulled
ml (¼ cup) lemon juice
gm (¼ cup) mayonnaise
ml (¼ cup) pickling liquid
from cornichons
8 cornichons, finely chopped
1 tbsp baby capers, finely chopped
1 tbsp each chopped dill and chives,
plus extra to serve
1 Place potatoes in a large saucepan of
cold salted water. Bring to the boil and
cook until tender (12-15 minutes). Drain,
cool and halve.
2 For tahini mayonnaise, combine
ingredients and mix to combine.
Season to taste.
3 While warm, pour dressing over
potatoes and toss to coat. Refrigerate
until cold (20 minutes).
4 Cook eggs in a saucepan of boiling
water until soft-centred (6 minutes).
Drain and refresh in cold water; then
peel and halve.
5 Divide potato salad among bowls. Top
with watercress, apple and egg. Drizzle
with oil to serve. ➤
TOP TIP
To peel eggs quickly,
firmly tap to crack the
bottom and the top of
egg before removing
the rest of the shell.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
61
Everyday
Blue cheese and
asparagus salad with
poached chicken
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 10 MINS
(PLUS COOLING)
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
2 chicken breasts (200gm each),
trimmed
2 bunches thick asparagus, trimmed
150 gm green beans, trimmed
1 baby cos lettuce, leaves separated
80 gm blue cheese (such as Stilton),
crumbled
Chervil and edible violets, to serve
EDIBLE FLOWERS
We’ve used violets here
but you can use any edible
flower, including
nasturtiums, marigolds,
pansies or dandelions.
DRESSING
1
1
60
2
1
tsp Dijon mustard
tsp honey
ml (¼ cup) lemon juice
tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 Combine lemon and bay leaves in a
saucepan. Cover with salted water and
bring to a simmer. Add chicken breasts,
reduce heat to low and simmer for
5 minutes, then set aside to cool in
poaching liquid until chicken is cooked
through (20-25 minutes). Shred chicken
and discard poaching liquid.
2 Meanwhile, for dressing, combine
ingredients in a small bowl, season to
taste and whisk to combine.
3 Cook asparagus and green beans in a
large saucepan of boiling salted water
until just tender (2-3 minutes). Drain and
refresh. Halve asparagus lengthways
then place in a large bowl with lettuce
and half dressing; toss to combine.
4 Divide among plates, top with blue
cheese and shredded chicken. Drizzle
with remaining dressing and scatter with
chervil and violets. ●
We use seafood from Notaras Fish Markets in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photoshoots.
62
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS
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Accessories shown are not included.
Something special
Our editors single out the travel moments that took their breath away in 2023.
Jean Harlow and Marilyn Monroe. BLVD
Hospitality, also responsible for LA’s
Soho House and Ace Hotel projects,
reopened The Georgian earlier this year,
bringing with them golden era flourishes
such as dial-up telephones and bell boys
in retro uniforms.
JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR
Lake Como, Italy
Arriving at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo,
I felt my dopamine levels spike as I took
in the technicolour splendour of this
Italian icon. From eating gold-flecked
risotto at the Michelin-starred La Terrazza
to lounging lakeside while watching Rivas
speed past, Lake Como was a fever
dream of retro glamour and decadence.
La dolce vita is real and it lives here.
ANNA MCCOOE, DEPUTY EDITOR
Santa Monica, USA
For me in 2023, spare time has been
the ultimate luxury. That ephemeral gift
landed in my lap in the 36-hour window
between a spell onboard Oceania Vista
and my flight home from Los Angeles.
I plonked my bags at The Georgian Hotel,
a luxurious art deco dream of a crash pad
in Santa Monica, formerly a beacon for
72
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
From top: The Georgian
Room bar at The
Georgian Hotel, Santa
Monica; and Kakadu.
JORDAN KRETCHMER, NEWS EDITOR
Kakadu National Park, NT
Seeing the prehistoric slink of a crocodile,
marvelling at sunsets and experiencing
65,000 years of living culture at every
turn solidified for me why Kakadu is
a bucket-list destination. From the
fascinating ecology of the wetlands
to the abundance of native ingredients,
Kakadu’s charm is unlike anywhere else.
When everyone is touting native
ingredient credentials, a trip to
this region to see, taste and feel
the real deal is a must-do.
From left: the Grand
Hotel Tremezzo on
Lake Como, Italy; A.I.R
Myoko ryokan, Japan;
and Portugal’s Douro
Valley vineyards.
Taswegian Luke Burgess – exGaragistes and A.I.R’s resident chef
for the winter – were another tick,
as were recovery onsens framed
by soothing mountain vistas.
SAMANTHA PAYNE, WINE COLUMNIST
MICHAEL HARDEN, VIC STATE EDITOR
Paris, France
Some of the most interesting eating in
Paris right now is in the gentrifying but
still artfully seedy 11th arrondissement.
The Belle Époque-era dining room
of Le Chardenoux is the gorgeous
backdrop to bistro classics reinvented
with non-French ingredients: misoglazed white asparagus or crab galette
with Madras curry. Sublime.
KATIE SPAIN, SA STATE EDITOR
Quinta de Ventozelo, Portugal
Douro Valley is a gasp-inducing mix
of valleys hugged by vineyards and
the vast River Douro. Hilltop estate,
winery and accommodation Quinta de
Ventozelo looks out over it all. History
whispers on the breeze; this biodiverse
beauty was once farmed by Cistercian
monks who inhabited the region and
began its agriculture and port wine
production journey. The real world
never felt so far away.
Cairo and Luxor, Egypt
I went on a private tour of some of the
most sacred sites in Egypt this year.
Surrounding myself in such incredibly
rich and beautiful history was nourishing
for the soul. Also, being able to stand
inside the Great Pyramid of Giza on the
night of a full moon and completely
alone was life-changing.
ANNA HART, TRAVEL COLUMNIST
Eastern Cape, South Africa
I’ll never forget learning to shuck oysters
straight from the sea in Pondoland, in
South Africa’s unspoiled Eastern Cape.
The four-day coastal hiking trip with Wild
Child Africa – where you walk, talk, fill up
on seafood and braai (barbecued meat)
while drinking Cape Winelands wine –
is the perfect combination of adventure
and decadence. ●
MAX VEENHUYZEN, WA STATE EDITOR
Myoko Kogen, Japan
I love Japan. I love winter. And I love
mountains. So, unsurprisingly, I love
A.I.R Myoko: a tiny on-piste ryokan
(traditional inn) in Niigata’s Myoko
Kogen ski resort, awash with shokunin
(artisan) spirit. Meals cooked by
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
73
Ye a r i n r e v i e w
COOKBOOKS
OF THE YEAR
FISH BUTCHERY, JOSH NILAND
More than a cookbook, Niland’s
new text is a call to action. At
a time when 50 per cent of fish
caught in the world is wasted, the
Saint Peter chef challenges chefs
and mongers to extend a single
fish far beyond fillets. Those
playing at home may be inspired
to make their own fish liver pâté
or to sharpen their sustainable
butchery skills. Challenge
accepted. (Hardie Grant, $70)
RECIPES FOR A LIFETIME OF
BEAUTIFUL COOKING, DANIELLE
ALVAREZ WITH LIBBY TRAVERS
An ode to food that tastes better
at home. Alvarez packs simplicity
with so much flavour, this might
just be the secret to domestic
bliss. (Murdoch Books, $50)
74
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
THE DINNER PARTY,
MARTIN BENN & VICKI WILD
Thumbing through this party
playbook, you won’t just find a
recipe to fill a void or a voyeuristic
glimpse into how these hospitality
veterans entertain. You’ll also get
the blow-by-blow account of nine
perfectly orchestrated feasts, each
timed for maximum enjoyment.
(Hardie Grant, $60)
NOMA 2.0 RENÉ REDZEPI, METTE
SØBERG & JUNICHI TAKAHASHI
When the Copenhagen charttopper closes in 2024, this artful
keepsake wil live on. The intention
here is not to be cooked from but
rather to be pondered. In fact,
instead of printing every step QR
codes are provided for those who
dare. For the rest of us, the book
captures an incredible moment in
food. Thanks for the memories.
(Hardie Grant, $130)
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS.
Whether you’re to gift something special or to treat
yourself, these books promise to inspire and delight.
POMEGRANATES & ARTICHOKES,
SAGHAR SETAREH
This daydream of a book recounts
Setareh’s move from Iran to Italy,
through the food that made the
same journey. With rice and stuffed
vegetables featuring heavily, the
author brings us into the Middle
East/Mediterranean world she
forged for herself. And it’s a lovely
place to be. (Murdoch Books, $50)
ESTER, MAT LINDSAY
WITH PAT NOURSE
The Ester chef presents a tome to
have, to hold, and to cook from as
the mood strikes. The condiments
alone are worth the bookshelf
real estate, including Lindsay’s
fermented hot sauce and his famous
Marie Rose. (Murdoch Books, $55)
CHANGE THE COURSE,
TWO GOOD CO
Consider this the gift that keeps on
giving. With more than 100
delicious recipes from the likes of
Kylie Kwong and Christine Manfield,
and proceeds going to women in
crisis, Two Good’s latest read is a
feel-good sensation.
(Simon & Schuster, $45)
RUMI, JOSEPH ABBOUD
A great sigara boregi, an almond
taratoor, a fatoosh for every season.
These are a few highlights from
Melbourne’s Middle Eastern icon.
(Murdoch Books, $40)
MEATSMITH, ANDREW
MCCONNELL & TROY WHEELER
When the chef behind Gimlet and
his butcher Wheeler reveal the
secrets to perfect beef Wellington
or glazed roast duck, you buy the
book. (Hardie Grant, $60)
ANDAZA, SUMAYYA USMANI
A delectable memoir recounting
Usmani’s childhood in Pakistan
and her journey to the UK told
through aromatic, spice-forward
recipes. (Murdoch Books, $45)
SWEET ENOUGH, ALISON ROMAN
“Perfection is boring.” This is the
baking bible according to Roman.
Here, the cult cook gives us wonky
tarts, cakes and galettes galore,
each one amplifying flavour and
crunch. (Hardie Grant, $55) ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
75
We ask chefs to look in the rearview mirror
of 2023, to reflect on the joys, experiences
and takeaways of the year that was.
Interviews JORDAN KRETCHMER
JUSTIN JAMES
Restaurant Botanic, Adelaide
Passing on the torch has been my biggest lesson
this year. I am someone that needs to be involved in
everything in the restaurant. I want the entire experience
of Restaurant Botanic to be cohesive and top notch, so
it starts and ends with me. There is a lot of merit in this
but it is also time consuming and energy draining and
can distract from the bigger picture. Our goals are big
and our mission is bigger. For us to complete these goals
I had to step away from the day to day. It was hard for
me at first but I can only see the positives from it now.
At the same time, this allows the team to grow into
better leaders and hospitality professionals, and for the
restaurant to be better than ever. You will still find me
attending service every day, but empowering the team
by ensuring they have autonomy in their roles has taken
what we do to the next level.
76
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
MITCH ORR
Kiln, Sydney
In 2023 I’ve learnt food and cooking can be life
changing. This has been through my partnership with
Plate It Forward and the NSW Department of Justice
in creating Second Chance Kitchen. It’s a five-week
program in juvenile detention where we showed some
young people how rewarding a career in hospitality
can be and that there are other options available to
them. We talked to them about how the industry works,
how to get a foot in the door, what to expect when
starting their first job and some basic cooking skills.
Next year I’m looking forward to expanding Second
Chance Kitchen programs, getting more chefs involved
and hopefully having a positive and lasting effect on
young people in detention around NSW.
JACQUI CHALLINOR
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY (CHALLINOR) & NIKKI TO (ORR).
Nomad and Reine & La Rue, Melbourne
It’s been a big year of lessons but opening Reine
& La Rue was the biggest eye opener for me in
terms of shifting my mindset. I actually wanted
to hire another executive chef to lead the project
because deep down I didn’t think I could do it.
The imposter syndrome was definitely the loudest
voice in the room at the time. French food isn’t
my comfort zone and I didn’t want to risk being
exposed as a fraud after all these years. It was
only in pushing myself out of my comfort zone and
trusting my abilities to cook and understand flavours
that my confidence started to build. Seeing the
success of Reine & La Rue after all the pressure
I’d put on myself was not only an incredible relief
but a really valuable lesson in self-confidence. ➤
It’s about spending less time
on things that aren’t important
and more time on projects
that inspire.
MARK GLENN,
North & Common, Melbourne
This year I’ve learnt to appreciate what you
can control, accept what you can’t, and have
the wisdom to know the difference. When my
last employer, Pialligo Estate [in Canberra],
unexpectedly closed its doors after 10 years,
it was a challenging time but it led me home
to Melbourne to pursue an exciting new
opportunity. It’s not every day you’re asked to
head up a kitchen in the former HM Prison
Pentridge – now Melbourne’s newest lifestyle
precinct. Being in Melbourne also means I’m
back with my family and friends whom I’d
missed dearly when I was in Canberra.
DARREN ROBERTSON,
This year I got to a point where I was struggling
to make time for friends and family, and on one too
many Zoom calls for the sake of it, going around
in circles. It was an important realisation and 2023
has definitely been a year to step back, reflect and
make positive changes. It’s about spending less time
on things that aren’t important and more time on
projects that inspire.
Tasting Australia was also challenging after
the passing of Jock [Zonfrillo]. We were halfway
through the festival with lots of media and a team
that knew Jock well. We got through the festival but
every day was tough. I guess we all had to be there
for one another. I found going on long runs in the
morning really helped my mental state, and just
getting through one day at a time.
PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN (ROBERTSON & GLENN).
Three Blue Ducks, Bellingen
ALEX YU,
Yugen Dining, Melbourne
This year saw me make the move from Sydney to Melbourne.
It’s been a learning experience – the differences in guests’ dining
expectations, perception of omakase, different food markets and
different areas of Melbourne. I have enjoyed every minute of it
and I’m lucky to have such appreciative guests. I’ve really tried
to embrace the culture here, so I have spent a lot of time exploring.
I now feel I have a good sense of place in Melbourne. Sourcing
the best quality of fish every day is the most important part of our
dining experience, so I’ve really had to build good relationships
by talking every day with our network at the fish markets
and always looking for new ingredients and products. I love
a challenge. Our guests have high expectations, so I always
want to exceed their expectations.
A L M AY J O R DA A N ,
PHOTOGRAPHY JUDIT LOSH (WOLFERS), GARETH SOBEY (YU) & AMY WHITFIELD (JORDAAN).
Neighbourhood Wine Bar and
Old Palm Liquor, Melbourne
This year for me has been focused on not
getting burnt out. I’ve developed a few tricks
that I’m fortunate enough to employ in balancing
life and work, ranging from listening to
audiobooks if I’m too tired to read, drinking less,
working out, painting and knitting. Empty, free
time is a real luxury. We’ve also had to adapt
our businesses to a consumer base that is
viewing restaurants differently after the
pandemic, without alienating ourselves
from our original business concept. ●
ADAM WOLFERS,
Queensland
I’ve spent 20+ years of my life putting my career first and
spent hours and hours perfecting my craft. I never thought
I would not be in restaurants, until I had a health scare. After
that, I found the kitchen to be very stressful. It forced me to
try new ways of applying my skills within our industry and
I discovered that I can use them outside the kitchen in more
of a management and consulting role. In ways such as
nurturing young chefs, creating systems for the kitchen and
front of house, writing menus, recipes, kitchen design and
guiding newly made young head chefs on how to manage
a team. I’m grateful to my wife and two beautiful children,
my parents, sister and in-laws and everyone who supported
me through this time.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
79
EAT, DRINK, BE MERRY
with a Gourmet Traveller Gift Card
Buy online at
gourmettravellergiftcard.com.au
and at leading retailers
1
Photography ALANA LANDSBERRY
Styling HOLLY DORAN
& KRISTINA SOLJO
& JACQUI TRIGGS
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
R ME
11
ED
A
P
OU
T
G
9
PROV
2023
’Tis the season.
GT’s wish list comes
colour-coded for the
wild, the chic and the
bon vivant in your life.
12
13
1 Stassia gold earrings, $110, Arms of Eve. 2 Earrings in 18-carat white gold,
emerald and diamond, $5995, J Farren-Price. 3 Fope Panorama cufflinks
in 18-carat white gold, $4855, J Farren-Price. 4 New Italian Art ring in
18-carat white gold, ruby and diamond, $12,500, J Farren-Price. 5 Effie
gold earrings, $110, Arms of Eve. 6 Extrait de Camélia transformable ring,
$18,750, Chanel. 7 Triomphe asymmetric cuff in brass with gold finish,
$730, Celine. 8 Triomphe Indie cuff in brass with gold finish, rutilated
quartz, tiger eye and hawk eye, $1450, Celine. 9 Eternal No. 5 ring in 18k
beige gold with diamonds, $14,400, Chanel. 10 Swing drop pearl earrings,
$615, Gucci. 11 Swing pave cuff, $395, Zimmermann. 12 Live in Grace ring,
$119, By Charlotte. 13 Bloom band ring, $350, Zimmermann.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
81
1
3
2
6
5
4
7
8
9
1 Di Bag mini bucket bag in leather with
drawstring in White, $3190, Tod’s.
2 Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum and
Spray Body Oil set, $290, Chanel.
3 Poet’s Dream fruit bowl in Natural,
$99, Robert Gordon. 4 Legend diver,
$5300, Longines. 5 Tote bag, $280,
Købn. 6 Tom Ford Eye Colour Quad in
Tiger Eye, $156, Mecca. 7 Izoa Maui
bangle stack, $59, Hard to Find.
8 Clara texture small day bag in Lemon
Butter, $449, Oroton. 9 Band slides in
Jute, $720, Bottega Veneta.
82
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
E A R T H LY D E L I G H T S
Lifestyle-enhancing gifts for the cool,
the calm and the neutral obsessed.
1
5
2
3
4
6
8
7
9
10
11
12
13
15
16
17
14
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25
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1 Beosound A5 Powerful portable speaker in Nordic Weave, $1950, Bang & Olufsen. 2 Large Rock jugs in Light Horn and Chalk Swirl, $280 each,
Dinosaur Designs. 3 Terracotta ceramic pitcher, $180, and ceramic cups, $60 each, Fourth Street. 4 Freesia floral scarf in Marigold, $220, Bohemian
Traders. 5 Candle discovery set, $135, Le Labo. 6 Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing cream, $359, Sephora. 7 Breville The Bambino Plus
Espresso coffee machine in Olive Tapenade, $499, Harvey Norman. 8 Christian Villa x Habbot Prato bag in Tan, $485, Habbot. 9 Buttery salted
caramels, $19.95, and Chocolate buttery salted caramels, $24.95, Pepe Saya. 10 Koda 16 gas powered pizza oven, $1199, Ooni. 11 Boronia hand
wash, $39, Leif. 12 Hand lotion and hand wash (not shown) set, $62, Bondi Wash. 13 Grande hair brush in Classic Tortoise, $317, Machete. 14 Large
Paradise bowl in Chalk Swirl, $300, Dinosaur Designs. 15 Our Place x Selena Gomez Always pan 2.0 in Steam, $275, Our Place. 16 The Christmas Cask
whisky, $250 for 500ml, Lark Distillery. 17 Beeswax candles, $59 for four, and Canelé holder in Brass, $95, Corey Ashford. 18 L’or de J’adore Eau de
Parfum, $295, Dior. 19 Towel in Sand, $110, Købn. 20 Gingerbread cookie butter, $17, Sonoma. 21 Cloud serving basket in Beige, $99, Maison Balzac. |
22 Acacia wood magnetic trivet, $70, Le Creuset. 23 Falling star pop, $3.90, Koko Black. 24 J’ai Faim dinner plates in Beige, $69 for two, Maison
Balzac. 25 Sabre bamboo dinner knife, $35, and fork, $32, Bonnie and Neil.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
83
COOL YULE
Chic travel accessories and
kitchen tools are destined to
delight sophisticates in
blues and greens.
1
2
4
3
5
6
9
11
7
8
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12
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16
17
1 Breville the InFizz Fusion carbonator in Black Truffle, $299, Harvey Norman. 2 Sartorial thin document case, $2290, Montblanc. 3 Augustinus Bader
The Renewal Icons with the Cream skincare set, $489, Mecca. 4 Original cabin suitcase in Arctic Blue, $2100, Rimowa. 5 Makeup Clutch Limited
Edition Lipstick Collection, $520, Dior. 6 Cast iron 30cm round skillet in Azure, $440, Le Creuset. 7 The Glenlivet 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch
Whisky, $77.95, The Glenlivet. 8 Instax Mini Evo hybrid camera with USB-C in Black, $299, Harvey Norman. 9 Ethno Barista Cappuccino/Flat White
glasses, $80 for two, Nachtmann. 10 Beoplay H95 Ultimate over-ear headphones, $1950, Bang & Olufsen. 11 Murdock Barbers of London Brick Lane
limited edition Beard Kit, $62, Mecca. 12 Aalto 16cm Recycled vase, $369, Iittala. 13 J’ai Soif carafe and glass in Indigo, $89, Maison Balzac.
14 Cool Tool in Azure, $29, Le Creuset. 15 Waffly Wafer milk chocolate, $9.90, Koko Black. 16 Marumitsu main plate in Indigo, $79, Bonnie and Neil.
17 Paul Smith Early Bird candle, $127, Mecca.
1
3
2
4
5
6
7
5
9
8
1 Absolu Aventus Eau de Parfum, $549
for 75ml, Creed. 2 Wave vase in
Midnight Blue, $54, Domayne. 3 Miles
Dome marble table lamp, $299,
Domayne. 4 Dots tumblers in Blue, $79
for two, Bonnie and Neil. 5 T Timeless
loafers, $1270, Tod’s. 6 Ultra Premium
Subscription Bundle, $60 for two
months, Cobram Estate. 7 Tom Dixon
Elements Diffuser Water, $325, David
Jones. 8 Ars Italica Oscietra Caviar,
$145, caviar key, $10.45, spoon, $13.50,
Simon Johnson. 9 PAL BT portable
radio, $299, Tivoli Audio.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
85
3
1
2
6
5
4
7
8
9
1 Solstice rucksack in Lavender,
$495, State of Escape. 2 Hermetica
Paris Pomeloflow Eau de Parfum,
$199 for 50ml, Libertine Parfumerie.
3 Banana salad bowl in Yellow, $99,
Bonnie and Neil. 4 Oribe Hair
Alchemy Collection, $155, Rogue
Beauty. 5 Dolce & Gabbana DG
cutout leather espadrille wedges,
$1200, Mytheresa. 6 Baker & Barista
crackers, $13.50 each, Simon
Johnson. 7 Chocolate Cherry Almond
Panetonne, $50, Sonoma. 8 Koko’s
edible ornaments, $49.90 for six,
Koko Black. 9 Luxe beach umbrella
in Terracotta, $200, Sunnylife.
86
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
JOY TO THE WORLD
Spread the cheer with gifts in vibrant pops
of citrus yellow and bold tangerine.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
9
11
17
13
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15
12
18
19
20
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1 Happy check towel in Burnt Orange, $120, Emma Mullholland on Holiday. 2 Cammeray occasion tote, $295, Lorna Murray.
3 Salt and Pepper mills in Volcanic, $75 each, Le Creuset. 4 Artisan 4.8L stand mixer in Majestic Yellow, $879, KitchenAid.
5 Perfect Present skincare set, $32, Go-To Skincare. 6 XL Crispy Chilli Oil, $61, Six-Eyed Scorpion. 7 Velodrome limited edition
sunglasses in Pine Lime, $59, Le Specs. 8 Kairos carafe in Dark Amber, $149, Saardé. 9 Dots amber carafe, $129, Bonnie and Neil.
10 Tall Paradise vase in Lychee, $395, Dinosaur Designs. 11 Candy Stripe large vase in Citrus, $109, Domayne. 12 The Alchemist’s Garden, A Floral Verse
Eau de Parfum, $545 for 100ml, Gucci. 13 Large Starfruit candle, $36, Nonnas Grocer. 14 Soleil d’Hermès dessert plate No. 2, $230, and coffee cup (not
shown) and saucer, $365, Hermès. 15 Boronia candle, $79, Leif. 16 Large Paradise bowl in Citrus, $300, Dinosaur Designs.
17 Striped coup glasses in Pink and Amber, $99 for two, Fazeek. 18 To Save Face SPF50+ Superscreen cracker, $22 for 30ml, Mecca Cosmetica.
19 Kairos wine glass in Yellow Topaz, $59, Saardé. 20 Cast iron 26cm shallow casserole in Volcanic, $540, Le Creuset.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
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ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS...
The ultimate gift guide to navigate
this festive season
*
F
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SCAN TO SHOP
CURATED BY
*T/Cs: Discount code must be used at checkout to redeem $20 off your order when you spend over $100. Valid until 26.12.23 23:30.
7
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8
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1. FEGG Silicone Unbreakable Tumblers Cherry Blush, $ 39.95. 2. Deep Dark Red Finger Lime Gin 750ml, $150. 3. BBQ King Tool Kit, $ 180. 4. Oyster Tasting Box, $125.
5. Magic Lasso Wine Bottle Holder, $74.90 6. Oak Condiment Tray, $265.10. 7. Personalised Star Glass Charm, $18.50. 8. ‘Made from Scratch’ Oven Mitt, $39.90.
9. Laguiole By Louis Thiers Belle 2-Piece Cheese Set – Rose Gold Finish, $110. 10. Smoked - The Smoking Culinary Kit, $110. 11. Personalised ‘Christmas with’ Serving
Board, $64.99. 12. BEBB Biodegradable Bamboo Bowls, $69.95. 13. Polarbox Cooler Box Nude, $109.95. 14. Hunter Valley Wine Region Tea Towel/ Mornington Peninsula
Wine Region Tea Towel $29.00. 15. Peronalised Gin Glass, $59.99. 16. Personalised Cocktail Glass, $49.99. 17. Personalised Round Scotch Glass Set of 4, $129.99.
18. Jacob Whisky Glass Single, $71.10. 19. Finger Lime Gin, $150. 20. Gin Baubles (Set of 6), $89.
DECEMBER
Merry making
Our ultimate Christmas menus,
from show-stopping centrepieces
to scene-stealing sides, and
decadent desserts to wow a crowd.
Barbecued lobster
with lemongrass,
makrut lime and
palm sugar
102
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY.
p
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
93
AFOO
SE
D
A
LOVER’S CHRISTMAS
Make seafood the hero of the day
with this fresh and sumptuous
menu. Be sure to splurge on the
freshest catch available.
TO START
Blue swimmer crab cocktail
with avocado cream (GF) p103
THE MAIN EVENT
Spiced coral trout with eggplant
ezme (GF) p102
Barbecued lobster with lemongrass,
makrut lime and palm sugar (GF)
p102
ON THE SIDE
Watermelon, cucumber and duck
salad with lime and sesame
dressing
(GF) (DF) p60
White peaches and cherries
with walnut tarator (V) p108
SWEETS
Mango and lemon verbena
trifle with verjuice jelly and
salted-lime meringue p120
94
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
CLASSIC
A
MODERN
A
F A M I LY F E A S T
FESTIVE MENU
This generous menu will feed
a crowd and keep everyone
happy with plenty of
traditional favourites.
Welcome everyone to your table with
this dietary-friendly menu, comprised
of vegetarian, gluten-free and
dairy-free options.
TO START
TO START
Zucchini flowers, brown rice,
Baked ricotta with lentil vinaigrette,
tomato, vine leaves and yoghurt
mustard fruits and rocket (V) (GF) p113
(V) (GF) p107
Prawns with basil verde and seared
Crusted giant green olives
scallops with ponzu pickled cumquats
with ’nduja (DF) p110
(GF) (DF) p99
THE MAIN EVENT
THE MAIN EVENT
Dry-brined five-spice roast turkey
Gochujang-glazed ham with roast cherries
(GF) (DF) p100
(GF) (DF) p100
ON THE SIDE
ON THE SIDE
Whole-roasted cauliflower
Cos lettuce with kimchi and
with caramelised pine nuts
sesame dressing (GF) (V) (DF) p107
and raisins (GF) (V) p109
Roast sweet potato with chickpea
Potato and mushroom gratin with
miso and seaweed salt (V) p112
fried sage and black garlic butter
(V) (GF) p110
SWEETS
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.
Gingerbread yoghurt cake with
SWEETS
burnt-orange caramel (V) p117
Bûche de Noël (V) p52
Peach and Champagne jelly with crème
Cardamom-pistachio pavlova
fraîche panna cotta (GF) p118
with rose cream (V) (GF) p122
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
95
Festive table Bordo Schizzato ceramic main plate
(bottom) in Doppio Green from Alex and Trahanas.
Salad plate (middle) in Pistachio from Mud Australia.
Gio Italian linen napkins from Alex and Trahanas, used
throughout. Fermob Luxembourg chair in Cactus from
Trit House, used throughout. Sage 100% French Flax
linen tablecloth from Bed Threads, used throughout.
Turkey Paris Platter in Milk from Mud Australia. Sage &
Olive 100% French Flax linen scalloped napkins from
Bed Threads. All other props stylist’s own.
96
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Photography BEN DEARNLEY
Styling VIVIEN WALSH
Recipes CLARE MAGUIRE
CROWNING
From an upgraded classic to standout seafood, a supernova
centrepiece is the first building block of the holiday table.
GLORY
Spiced coral trout with eggplant ezme
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS COOLING, RESTING)
Whole baked fish is the perfect self-serve main. Just place it down the middle of the
table for guests to help themselves, scooping up eggplant and yoghurt as they go.
1 tbsp Balmain & Rozelle Spice Blend
(see note)
1 coral trout (about 1kg), scaled,
cleaned
Slivered pistachios and micro red
vein sorrel, to serve
SAFFRON YOGHURT
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in
2 tbsp boiling water for 1 hour
300 gm Greek-style yoghurt
EGGPLANT EZME
1 eggplant, pierced
1 capsicum, pierced
1 banana shallot, finely chopped
250 gm cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 pomegranate, arils removed and
reserved
20
1
1
2
gm parsley leaves, finely chopped
tsp ground cumin
tbsp pomegranate molasses
tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 For saffron yoghurt, drain saffron water
into a bowl; discard threads. Add yoghurt
and a drizzle of oil, season to taste and
stir to combine.
2 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or
char-grill pan to high. For eggplant ezme,
cook eggplant and capsicum, turning
occasionally, until blackened and tender
(20-25 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl
and set aside until cool enough to
Spiced coral trout
Salad plate in
Pistachio from Mud
Australia. All other
props stylist’s own.
handle. Peel eggplant and capsicum;
discard skin and capsicum seeds. Place
flesh in a sieve and drain for 30 minutes.
Discard liquid then finely chop flesh.
Combine flesh and remaining ingredients
in a bowl; season to taste.
3 Preheat oven to 200˚C fan-forced.
Place fish on a lined baking tray and
scatter with spice; season; roast until just
cooked (30 minutes); rest 10 minutes
before serving.
4 To serve, spread a large platter with
yoghurt, top with ezme and fish. Sprinkle
with pistachios and micro red vein sorrel.
Note Balmain & Rozelle Spice Blend is
available from Herbie’s Spices online or
from specialty food shops.
Prawns Pickle dish (with
salsa verde) in Mist from
Mud Australia. Schizzato
ceramic oval platter in
Doppio Green from Alex
and Trahanas. All other
props stylist’s own.
Prawns with basil verde and seared scallops with ponzu pickled cumquats
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
Prep the elements the morning of, then all this starter needs is five theatrical minutes on the barbecue and a final flourish or two.
12 extra large king prawns, peeled,
deveined, heads and tails intact
12 large scallops in the half shell,
roe removed
Micro shiso, pea shoots and charred
lemon halves, to serve
PONZU PICKLED CUMQUATS
12 cumquats, thinly sliced, seeds
removed
200 ml ponzu
60 gm caster sugar
20 gm ginger, peeled, finely grated
2 Lebanese cucumbers, peeled, seeds
removed, finely chopped
BASIL VERDE
1 garlic clove
30 gm basil leaves
15
10
1
3
2
60
80
gm flat-leaf parsley leaves
gm mint leaves
tbsp capers
anchovy fillets, torn
tsp Dijon mustard
ml red wine vinegar
ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for
drizzling
1 For ponzu pickled cumquats, place
cumquats, ponzu, sugar and ginger in
a pan. Bring to a simmer and stir until
sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool; then
add cucumber. Stand at least 15 minutes.
2 To prepare seafood, skewer prawns
lengthways onto metal skewers. Remove
scallops from shells and rinse shells;
reserve shells and scallops separately.
3 For basil verde, place ingredients in
a blender and blend until smooth;
season to taste.
4 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
flat plate to high. Drizzle prawns with
olive oil and season to taste. Cook,
turning occassionally, until just cooked
through (4-5 minutes). Meanwhile, drizzle
scallops with oil and sear until just
opaque (1 minute each side).
5 To serve, place seared scallops back in
shells and spoon over pickle. Place on a
platter with prawns; drizzle prawns with
basil verde. Scatter scallops with micro
shiso and prawns with pea shoots. Serve
with charred lemon and remaining pickled
cumquats and basil verde, on the side. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
99
Gochujang-glazed ham with roast cherries
SERVES 12-14 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2 HRS
Two hours in the oven and you have a glazed wow moment for the main event followed by cold ham for days. Here we lean further
into summer, infusing the Christmas classic with the spicy-sweet kick of gochujang, a Korean red chilli paste. And cherries, of course.
1 leg ham, bone in (about 7kg;
see note)
750 gm black cherries, pitted
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 gm ginger, finely grated
GOCHUJANG GLAZE
170
225
50
6
2
2
gm gochujang paste (see note)
gm cherry jam
gm piece ginger, finely chopped
garlic cloves, crushed
tbsp soy sauce
tbsp rice vinegar
1 Preheat oven to 180°C fan-forced. For
gochujang glaze, combine ingredients
in a saucepan, bring to the boil, then
set aside.
2 Use a small sharp knife to cut around
ham rind 10cm from top of shank. Run
knife under rind around edge of ham.
Run your thumb underneath rind and
above fat to separate edges all the way
around. Starting from widest edge,
gently pull back rind to remove. Score fat
in straight lines at 2cm intervals – do not
cut deeply or the fat will spread apart
during cooking.
3 Place ham on a rack in a large
roasting pan with a cup of water, then
brush with glaze. Bake ham, brushing
with glaze frequently, and rotating pan,
until deep golden (1½-2 hours).
4 Meanwhile, combine cherries, soy, oil,
garlic and ginger in a bowl; season to
taste. When ham has 40 minutes
remaining, add cherries to roasting pan
and cook until softened.
5 To serve, transfer ham to a serving
platter. Spoon over roasted cherries.
Note For best results, opt for fresh
Australian pork rather than ham made in
Australia from frozen imported meat.
Look for the distinctive Australian Pork
logo or a green and gold kangaroo.
Store leftover ham covered with
reserved ham skin in the fridge.
Gochujang, fermented Korean chilli
paste, is available from Asian grocers.
Dry-brined five-spice roast turkey
SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 4 HRS (PLUS BRINING, COOLING, RESTING)
This dry-brining process not only seasons the meat deeply but also retains moisture, resulting in a turkey with intensified flavours and
incredibly tasty and caramelised skin. A delightful twist on tradition that is sure to impress. Begin this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p97
1 small turkey (about 4kg), pat dry with
paper towel
2 oranges, pierced all over with skewer
1 garlic bulb
1 each cinnamon quill and star anise
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
100 gm butter, at room temperature
400 ml chicken stock
Bay leaves, shiso and wasabi leaves,
to serve
DRY BRINE
85
1
3
2
1
2
1
gm coarse sea salt
tbsp brown sugar
bay leaves, torn
tsp green Sichuan peppercorns
tsp fennel seeds
cloves
each orange and lemon, zest
finely grated
GLAZE
3 tbsp malt syrup (see note)
1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder
100
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
30 gm ginger, peeled, finely grated
3 garlic cloves, crushed
50 ml red wine vinegar
1 To dry-brine turkey, combine
ingredients in a bowl; toss to combine.
Place turkey in a large non-reactive
container and rub all over with mixture.
Refrigerate uncovered for 24 hours. If
time permits, brine for 48 hours to impart
more flavour.
2 Remove turkey from fridge 1 hour
before cooking. Preheat oven to 180˚C
fan-forced then brush off any remaining
brine residue from turkey and discard.
Place oranges, garlic, and whole spices
in cavity; tuck in wings and truss legs.
Transfer to a roasting pan with a trivet;
roast for 20 minutes.
3 Combine soy and five-spice in a small
bowl. Remove turkey from oven and
brush soy mixture all over turkey then
rub turkey all over with butter. Pour
chicken stock into roasting pan then
cover loosely with foil. Reduce oven to
160˚C fan-forced. Return to oven and
roast until just cooked through (3-3½
hours); basting with stock occasionally.
4 Meanwhile, for glaze, combine
ingredients with 50ml water in a small
saucepan, bring to a simmer, stir until
combined and set aside to cool.
5 With 40 minutes remaining, brush
turkey with glaze, repeating every
10 minutes or until turkey is cooked.
Rest, covered loosely with foil for at least
40 minutes before serving.
6 To serve, tie bay leaves around turkey
leg, scatter a large platter with shiso and
wasabi leaves and top with turkey.
Note Malt syrup (maltose) is a natural
sweetener made from fermented grains
such as barley or rice. It is available from
Asian grocery stores. ➤
Ham Schizzato
ceramic side and
dessert plate (with
cherries) in Doppio
Green from Alex and
Trahanas. All other
props stylist’s own.
Lobster Pickle dish
in Pistachio (with
dipping sauce) and
Charger plate in
Milk from Mud
Australia. All other
props stylist’s own.
Thai flavours are a vibrant addition to
lobster. Store live lobster in the coolest
part of the fridge covered with a damp
cloth for up to two days.
2 tsp fish sauce
2 tsp coconut sugar
2 tbsp grapeseed oil, plus extra for
drizzling
2 lemongrass stalks, white part only,
very thinly sliced
20 gm coriander leaves, finely chopped
1 live lobster (about 1.2kg),
dispatched humanely (see note)
2 birdseye chillies, thinly sliced
1 spring onion, cut into julienne
Lime cheeks, crisp shallots and
garlic, to serve
4 makrut lime leaves, stems removed,
finely shredded
2 tbsp nam prik pao (see note)
2 tbsp lime juice
1 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
flat plate to high. For dressing, combine
makrut lime leaves, nam prik pao, lime
juice, fish sauce, sugar and oil in a bowl.
Barbecued lobster with
lemongrass, makrut
lime and palm sugar
SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A FEAST //
PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
102
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Stir in lemongrass and coriander;
season to taste.
2 Halve lobster lengthways, remove
vein that runs down the back of lobster
and drizzle with oil. Place cut-side down
on flat plate and cook until just cooked
and lightly browned (10-12 minutes).
3 To serve, transfer lobster to a serving
platter. Drizzle with sauce. Top with chilli,
spring onion, crisp shallots and garlic.
Serve with lime cheeks.
Note Nam prik pao is a Thai chilli jam
available from Asian grocery stores.
RSPCA Australia’s advice for killing
lobster humanely is to render it insensible
by chilling it in the freezer (under 4°C) for
half an hour. Then the lobster must be
killed quickly by cutting through the
centreline of the head, thorax and
abdomen with a large, sharp knife.
Cutting must occur along the longitudinal
midline to destroy the nerve centres.
Blue swimmer crab cocktail with avocado cream
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING)
This delightful and refreshing dish embodies the essence of Australian coastal living – perfect for a summertime Christmas.
400 gm cooked blue swimmer or spanner
crab meat (see note), thawed
1 nashi pear, peeled, finely chopped
1 kohlrabi, peeled, finely chopped
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
2 tsp each finely chopped mint and
chives
2 tsp smoked dulse flakes (see note),
plus extra to serve
Chervil sprigs, to serve
AVOCADO CREAM
1 large avocado, seed removed
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp wasabi paste
80 gm mayonnaise
1 For avocado cream, place ingredients
in a blender and blend until smooth;
season to taste.
2 Combine crab, pear, kohlrabi, shallot,
mint and chives and smoked dulse flakes
in a large bowl and toss to combine;
season to taste.
3 Divide avocado cream among cocktail
bowls and top with crab mixture. Sprinkle
with chervil and extra smoked dulse
flakes.
Note Smoked dulse flakes, a type of
edible seaweed that has been
harvested, dried, and then smoked to
enhance its flavour, are available from
specialty food shops. Cooked crab meat
is available from the fish markets and
seafood shops. If unavailable, substitute
cooked prawns. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
103
Photography JAMES MOFFATT
Styling LUCY BUSUTTIL
Food preparation JESSICA BROOK
Words ALEXANDRA CARLTON
All the
Ham and seafood may be the main characters but
these vegetable-forward side dishes from Woodcut’s
ROSS LUSTED are guaranteed to steal the show.
G
rowing up in South Africa,
Ross Lusted remembers
Christmas Days spent with
the whole family. “We’d
run through my aunt’s house stopping
to grab handfuls of nuts and chocolate
that were placed around the house in
heavy cut-crystal bowls.” The main
course, he says, always centred around
pork and seafood, grilled by his dad
and uncles over the charcoal barbecue.
“Lobster was always abundant off the
coast of Natal so it never felt like
a treat until we came to Australia,”
recalls the Woodcut chef-owner.
But for Lusted, and for many of us,
Christmas has always been about side
acts. The presents are great but it’s the
delighted looks on family’s faces as
they tear off wrapping that you
remember. The tree is beautiful in
its entirety but it’s those sentimental,
104
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
individual ornaments that make
the memories.
The same could be said for the
food. A centrepiece ham or a whole
fish is a classic Australian Christmas
showstopper but it’s the side dishes
that make the meal. “Side dishes are
some of my favourite dishes at
Christmas, especially when
entertaining,” says Lusted. Not
only do they add texture and variety
and flavour but if you make them
that little bit fancy they can become
a meal in themselves, particularly
for vegetarians. “They can always be
a main course for your guests who
may not enjoy the traditional offerings
at this time of year,” he says.
The secret to a good side dish?
Fresh produce, decadent flavours and
a little sprinkle of showmanship, for
example when you present friends and
family with Lusted’s fragrant, whole
roasted cauliflower dish. “Leave your
guests in suspense while serving this
dish,” he instructs. “Once everyone is
seated, remove the lid and this humble
vegetable will be elevated to its rightful
place.” Making those ordinary
moments into something a little bit
special is what Christmas is all about.
crownsydney.com.au/woodcut ➤
Cos lettuce with
kimchi and sesame
dressing
p
107
Crusted giant
green olives
with ’nduja
p
110
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
105
106
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Zucchini flowers, brown rice, tomato, vine leaves and yoghurt
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR
“As a young chef, I worked at an Italian trattoria in Brisbane,” says chef Ross Lusted. “The chef, Danny, was Greek would cook us
his traditional dishes for family meal. One day, a relative of the owner turned up with a basketful of bright yellow flowers ... Danny
served us the flowers, filled with rice, plump as pillows and wrapped in vine leaves. It was like nothing I had ever eaten before.”
20 large zucchini flowers
80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
10 preserved vine leaves (see note),
rinsed
500 gm ripe tomatoes, coarsely grated
Yoghurt and dill sprigs, to serve
FILLING
60
1
5
150
1
¼
ml (¼ cup) olive oil
white onion, chopped
garlic cloves, finely chopped
gm organic brown rice, cooked
spring onion, finely chopped
cup each finely chopped mint,
flat-leaf parsley and dill
2 tsp dried Greek oregano
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
DILL OIL
125 ml (½ cup) olive oil
1/3 cup (firmly packed) dill sprigs
1 For filling, heat oil in a large frying pan
over medium heat. Cook onion and
garlic; stirring occassionally, until
softened (3-5 minutes). Transfer onion
mixture to a large bowl with cooked rice.
Remove zucchini from flowers and
coarsely grate 10 (you should have
180gm). Squeeze out excess liquid from
zucchini and add to rice with onion,
herbs, 1 tsp black pepper and zest.
Season with 1 tsp sea salt and mix well.
2 Carefully open flowers and discard
stamen. Fill each zucchini flower with
about 2 tbsp filling, twist petals over
filling to enclose then place on plate.
Repeat until all flowers are filled.
3 Preheat oven to 200˚C. Drizzle base
of 30cm round ovenproof baking dish
with oil, then line base with half vine
leaves. Top with grated tomato and
300ml water; place zucchini flowers
on top, side by side, with stalks facing
middle of dish, with one or two flowers
in the centre. Cover with remaining vine
leaves then an ovenproof saucepan lid
to keep them weighed down. Loosely
cover with foil and bake until tender
(35-40 minutes).
4 For dill oil, combine ingredients in
a small blender and blend until combined.
5 Serve zucchini flowers with yoghurt,
topped with dill sprigs and drizzled with
dill oil.
Note Preserved or pickled vine leaves
are available from select supermarkets
and delicatessens. To use, rinse well and
pat dry with paper towel.
Cos lettuce with kimchi and sesame dressing
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS REFRIGERATING)
“This dish is a departure from Christmas traditions,” says Lusted. “I first made it when I lived in Singapore. It’s ideal for
those balmy summer nights when you want something light and packed with flavour.” Pictured p105
2
5
6
2
1
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
carrots, cut into julienne
cm piece ginger, cut into julienne
spring onions, cut into 6cm lengths
cos lettuces
bunch coriander, leaves picked
KIMCHI DRESSING
200 gm kimchi
500 gm thick mayonnaise
1 spring onion, chopped
SESAME AND SOY DRESSING
50
10
50
½
10
ml peanut oil
ml sesame oil
ml light soy sauce
tsp mustard powder
gm sesame seeds, toasted
1 Fill a saucepan one-third with oil and
heat to 180˚C. Fry carrot and ginger, in
batches, until golden and crisp (1 minute);
remove with a slotted spoon and drain
on paper towel.
2 Drain all but 2 tbsp oil. Heat remaining
oil over low-medium heat and cook
spring onion until wilted; drain on paper
towel (2 minutes).
2 For kimchi dressing, drain kimchi and
chop finely. Blend kimchi and mayonnaise
in a blender until well combined. Transfer
to a bowl and fold in spring onion.
3 For sesame and soy dressing, place
ingredients in a bowl and whisk to
combine; season to taste.
4 To assemble lettuce rolls, separate
leaves and wash well; pat dry. Place
a large rectangle of plastic wrap on your
benchtop and begin layering cos leaves
on top, starting with smaller leaves.
Dress every leaf with kimchi dressing
and top with carrot, ginger, spring onion,
and coriander. Continue to stack leaves
and seasonings. Once complete, roll
tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for
at least 2 hours.
5 To serve, remove plastic wrap from
lettuce roll and slice into 3cm-thick
rounds. Spoon over sesame and soy
dressing. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
107
White peaches and
cherries with walnut
tarator
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
“The dressing here is great to have on
hand when guests drop in. Toss through
grilled octopus or serve as a dip.”
4 white peaches
16 large cherries
½ cup (loosely packed) watercress
sprigs
1/3 cup (loosely packed) mint leaves
20 dried cherries
WALNUT TARATOR
250 gm walnuts
2 garlic cloves
1 thick slice (80 gm) crustless
sourdough bread, soaked in 100ml
warm water.
60 ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
40 ml lemon juice
1 For walnut tarator, preheat oven to
160˚C. Place walnuts on an oven tray
and roast until golden (12-15 minutes).
Blend walnuts, garlic and 2 tsp sea salt
flakes until a rough paste is formed.
Add soaked bread and warm water.
Blend well, then gradually add oil
until emulsified.
2 Add juice and 60ml hot water slowly
until smooth consistency is achieved.
3 Halve peaches and cherries and
remove the stones and seeds, then
cut peaches into thick wedges.
4 To serve, spread walnut tarator over
a large plate, then arrange the fresh fruit
on top with watercress and mint leaves.
Scatter with dried cherries and drizzle
with a little extra olive oil.
Whole-roasted
cauliflower with
caramelised pine nuts
and raisins
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1½ HRS
(PLUS SOAKING OVERNIGHT)
“My only childhood memories of
cauliflower was boiled or baked in a grey
sauce. I had a version of this whole
cauliflower in Marrakech; roasted in a
tagine. The cauliflower was golden
brown, dripping in fragrant butter, and
drenched in broth and plumped raisins.”
1
60
50
60
30
40
Earl Grey tea bag
gm green raisins
gm butter, chopped
ml (¼ cup) verjuice
ml pine needle syrup or honey
gm pine nuts, roasted
3 Roast cauliflower, basting frequently,
until a knife slides in easily with little
resistance (12-15 minutes).
4 For cauliflower purée, place a large
piece of foil on a worksurface and place
a second piece in opposite direction to
create a cross. Top with baking paper.
Place cauliflower in centre, sprinkle with
thyme and 1 tsp sea salt; drizzle with
2 tbsp water. Fold up sides to form
a secure parcel and place on an oven
tray. Bake until tender (40 minutes).
5 Heat milk, shallot, garlic and bay
leaf over low heat until milk comes to
a simmer. Add cooked cauliflower
(discard thyme sprigs); cook a further 15
minutes to infuse. Remove bay leaf and
discard. Blend well with a stick blender,
gradually adding chilled butter, piece by
piece, until emulsified. Season to taste.
Cover and keep warm.
6 Melt butter in a heavy-based frying
pan over medium heat, add raisin and
tea mixture to pan, and cook until butter
starts to brown (1-2 minutes). Add
verjuice, and simmer until reduced by
half (2-3 minutes). Add syrup and pine
nuts; stir continuously until sticky and
caramelised (1-2 minutes).
7 To serve, spoon cauliflower purée
onto plate and place whole roasted
cauliflower on top. Spoon over burnt
butter mixture.
Note Green raisins, also sold as Persian
raisins, are elongated, fruity and tangy
and are available from specialty food
shops. If unavailable, substitute
golden raisins. ➤
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
1
150
4
2
60
50
whole cauliflower (1.7kg), trimmed
ml vegetable stock
thyme sprigs
bay leaves, plus extra to serve
gm butter, melted
ml extra-virgin olive oil
CAULIFLOWER PURÉE
350
2
200
2
1
2
50
gm cauliflower, coarsely chopped
thyme sprigs
ml milk
golden shallots, finely chopped
garlic clove, finely chopped
bay leaves
gm butter, chilled
1 Brew tea in 250ml boiling water for
5 minutes; remove and discard tea bag.
Add raisins; stand until needed.
2 For roasted cauliflower, preheat oven
to 200˚C. Meanwhile, place cauliflower in
a large ovenproof casserole with stock,
herbs, half the butter and olive oil. Bake,
covered with a lid, until par-cooked (50
minutes). Drain (reserving cooking stock)
and transfer cauliflower to a cast-iron
frying pan. Ladle some reserved stock
over cauliflower then brush cauliflower
with remaining butter; season to taste.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
109
Potato and mushroom gratin with fried sage and black garlic butter
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)
“Potato gratin comes in many shapes and sizes,” says Lusted. “I like mine thin and crisp on the base with just enough layers to
retain that creamy texture. I make it in a cast-iron pan as the base can be caramelised over a flame once removed from the oven.”
100 gm butter, melted
8 large Dutch cream potatoes (about
1.7kg), peeled
10 Swiss brown mushrooms (about
120gm), thinly sliced
100 ml pouring cream
1 garlic clove
Fried sage leaves and lemon zest,
to serve
BLACK GARLIC BUTTER
100 gm unsalted butter, at room
temperature
12 garlic cloves, roasted, peeled
(see note)
25 gm black peeled garlic (see note)
150 ml vegetable stock
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 Brush a 22cm-square, 6cm-deep
baking dish with melted butter.
2 Using a mandolin, cut potatoes
widthways into 1mm-thick slices.
3 Preheat oven to 160˚C fan-forced.
Arrange potato and mushroom slightly
overlapping in a single layer to cover the
base of pan. Drizzle with a little cream
and melted butter; season to taste.
Continue to layer potato drizzling with
cream and butter as you layer. Place
garlic in the centre, brush with butter and
drizzle with cream.
4 Bake gratin until just set, if you cook
gratin too quickly it will split the cream.
Remove from oven and allow to cool
(1 hour). Rest for 10 minutes.
5 Meanwhile, for black garlic butter,
place butter and garlic in a food
processor and process until smooth.
Transfer to a piece of baking paper and
freeze for 10 minutes to set, then cut into
small pieces. Heat vegetable stock in
a small saucepan over medium heat
until simmering. Reduce heat to low and
gradually whisk in butter, piece by piece
until emulsified. Remove from heat and
add juice and season to taste.
6 When you are ready to serve, preheat
oven to 200˚C fan-forced and cook until
top is golden (20 minutes). Serve gratin
topped with zest, fried sage leaves and
remaining black garlic butter.
Note Roast garlic in a 180˚C oven
wrapped in foil for 30-35 minutes. Cool
completely before squeezing from skins;
discard skins. Black garlic is available from
select delicatessens and supermarkets.
Crusted giant green olives with ’nduja
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS SETTING)
“These fried olives are a treat you can prepare well in advance of your guests arriving and fry last minute,” says Lusted. “The recipe
calls for ’nduja but I also like to fill them with Galotyri, a soft and creamy Greek shepherd’s cheese.” Pictured p105
16 large green Spanish olives, pitted,
brine reserved (we used Gordal)
60 gm ’nduja (see note)
50 gm (1/3 cup) plain flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
50 gm Panko crumbs
50 gm hemp seeds
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Fennel pollen (see note), for dusting
Fried flat-leaf parsley and lemon
wedges, to serve
’NDUJA OIL DRESSING
80 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
60 gm finely chopped fennel
100 gm ’nduja
50 ml olive brine
30 ml lemon juice
110
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
1 Pat olives dry on paper towel, then
using a chopstick, fill cavity of each olive
with ’nduja. Place flour, egg, combined
breadcrumbs and hemp seeds in three
separate shallow bowls. Dust stuffed
olives in flour, then roll in egg, allowing
excess to drip off then coat in crumb
mixture. Place on tray and refrigerate to
set (30 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, for ’nduja oil dressing,
place oil in a saucepan over low heat;
add shallot, garlic and fennel. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until translucent
(3 minutes). Add ’nduja and stir until
fragrant and broken down to a grainy
texture (6 minutes). Remove from heat
and stir in brine and juice. Keep warm.
3 Fill a large saucepan one-third with
vegetable oil and heat to 175˚C.
Deep-fry olives, in batches, until golden
(1-2 minutes); drain on paper towel and
dust with fennel pollen.
4 Serve olives with the ’nduja oil
dressing, scattered with fried parsley
and lemon wedges.
Note ’Nduja is a spicy spreadable salami
from Calabria available from select
delicatessens and specialty food stores.
If fresh fennel pollen is unavailable,
substitute dried fennel pollen,
available from Herbie’s Spices. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
111
2 leeks (about 420gm), white part only,
halved lengthways
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing and
drizzling
4 sweet potatoes (about 570gm),
sliced lengthways 1mm thick
4 bay leaves
1 tsp chilli flakes
MISO BUTTER
80
50
200
1
ml (1/3 cup) vegetable stock
gm chickpea miso paste
gm butter, chilled, diced
tbsp light soy sauce
SEAWEED SALT
1 tbsp furikake
2 tbsp puffed rice
Roast sweet potato with
chickpea miso and
seaweed salt
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS
“This is delicious served with warm
smoked ham or some green beans and
rocket leaves for vegetarians. I usually
prepare the dish the day before as it can
take a little time,” says Lusted.
112
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
1 Preheat oven to 200˚C. Blanch leeks in
a saucepan of salted boiling water until
tender (4 minutes); drain and refresh
under cold running water. Pat leek dry
with paper towel. Trim off base and
separate layers; set aside.
2 Brush base and side of a 22cmdiameter round tart tin or baking dish
with oil. Arrange sweet potato and leek
alternating in prepared dish, horizontally,
working in a spiral from outside into
centre, overlapping pieces. Insert
a couple of bay leaves; season and
scatter with chilli flakes.
3 Brush top with oil and cover with foil.
Place dish in a roasting pan then bake
until tender (40-45 minutes). Uncover
and cook until golden (15 minutes).
4 Meanwhile, for miso butter, place
stock in a saucepan over medium heat
and bring to a simmer. Whisking
continuously, add miso until smooth,
then gradually, whisk in butter, piece by
piece until emulsified. Remove from heat
and whisk in soy sauce.
5 To serve, combine furikake and puffed
rice. Serve roasted sweet potatoes
scattered with seaweed salt and drizzled
with miso butter.
Baked ricotta with lentil
vinaigrette, mustard
fruits and rocket
SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS DRAINING, COOLING)
“Baked ricotta can be very simple or it
can be a base for robust condiments
like stewed hot peppers, olives and
preserved lemon,” says Lusted. “It’s
perfect as a side or substantial enough
for a vegetarian main.”
50 gm mustard fruits, rinsed (see note),
thinly sliced
Micro parsley, to serve
BAKED RICOTTA
Butter, for greasing
450 gm whole-milk ricotta, drained for
30 minutes
100 gm parmesan, finely grated
1 tsp dried wild oregano or thyme
1 small red chilli, seeds removed,
finely chopped
2 eggs
LENTIL VINAIGRETTE
100 gm black lentils (see note)
80 ml (1/3 cup) extra- virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
1 golden shallot, finely chopped
30 gm each finely chopped celery stalks,
finely chopped carrot
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
200 ml vegetable stock
60 ml (¼ cup) Sherry vinegar
1 For baked ricotta, rub a 16cm-diameter
round baking dish with butter.
2 Preheat oven to 200˚C fan-forced.
Combine ricotta, parmesan, oregano and
chilli in a bowl; stir in eggs, one at a time
until incorporated, then season to taste.
Spread mixture evenly in prepared dish
and drizzle with a little oil. Bake until just
set and a burnished golden brown
(20-25 minutes); cool.
3 Meanwhile, for lentil vinaigrette, place
lentils in a saucepan, cover with cold
water and bring to the boil over high
heat; drain and rinse. Repeat three times.
Heat 2 tbsp oil in a saucepan over
medium heat; cook vegetables and
garlic, stirring occasionally, until
vegetables have softened (4-6 minutes).
Add lentils, bay leaf and stock and stir to
combine. Cover with a cartouche, bring
to a simmer and cook until al dente and
stock is evaporated (4 minutes). Stir in
vinegar and remaining oil; season to
taste. Set aside until required.
4 To serve, turn ricotta out, and serve
top-side up, onto a platter. Drizzle with
lentil vinaigrette, top with mustard fruits
and scatter with micro parsley. Serve
warm or at room temperature.
Note Black lentils are also known
as beluga lentils. Mustard fruits are
a mixture of fruit preserved in a mustardflavoured syrup. Both are available
from select delicatessens and specialty
food stores. ●
Scorched-honey
parfait with
hazelnut
dacquoise and
agrodolce cherries
p
114
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
119
Photography BEN DEARNLEY
Styling BERNIE SMITHIES
Glass baubles from
Maison Balzac, used
throughout. All other
props stylist’s own.
Recipes MAX ADEY
SWEET
& SLOW
A little advanced planning and
preparation goes a long way when it
comes to creating a show-stopping
Christmas closer. Follow these
recipes closely for an impressive
festive finale to remember.
D
essert may be the last course to hit the festive
table but it should be the first thing on your
mind when it comes to planning your Christmas
feast. Each of these show-stopping desserts is
designed to be prepared ahead and in stages, with critical
resting and setting time in between. Try to skip ahead and
your day will end in disaster. Instead, read through each
recipe in full and put a firm schedule in place.
Some stages – such as the passionfruit curd in the trifle
– can be made up to five days ahead. Likewise, jelly will
happily live in the fridge for up to three days without any
degradation of quality or flavour. An uniced cake –
including the gingerbread yoghurt cake and the spiced
pineapple Chistmas cake – can be stored in an airtight
container for up to two days before serving.
Plan ahead, take it slow and steady, and know the work
you do ahead will pay off handsomely. All you should need
to do on the day is whip some cream or icing and add a few
final flourishes. ➤
Gingerbread yoghurt cake with burnt-orange caramel
BEGIN THIS RECIPE 2 DAYS AHEAD
SERVES 16 // PREP TIME 50 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS DRAINING, COOLING, SETTING)
1.5 kg Greek-style yoghurt
Halved figs, and edible flowers,
to serve
GINGERBREAD CAKE
200 gm pitted medjool dates
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
80 gm treacle
190 gm brown sugar
3 eggs
125 gm butter, melted, cooled
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
150 gm (1 cup) self-raising flour
1 tbsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
110 gm almond meal
80 ml (⅓ cup) whisky
2 tbsp orange juice
4 egg yolks
2 titanium-strength gelatine leaves
(10gm), softened in cold water
100 gm sour cream
BURNT-ORANGE CARAMEL
220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar
140 ml orange juice (about 3 oranges)
1 Spoon 1.25kg yoghurt into a sieve
lined with muslin placed over a bowl.
Cover and refrigerate overnight to drain.
2 For cake, preheat oven to 180°C.
Grease and line two 18cm round cake
tins with baking paper. Place dates and
bicarbonate of soda in a heatproof bowl
and cover with 125ml (½ cup) boiling
water. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes
to soften. Transfer date mixture to a food
processor and puree. Add treacle, 80gm
sugar, eggs, butter, orange zest and
remaining 250gm yoghurt; process until
smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Sieve
over flour and spices. Add almond meal
and ½ tsp fine salt; whisk to combine.
Divide evenly between tins. Bake until
golden and centre springs back when
lightly pressed (40-45 minutes). Cool in
tins for 15 minutes, then turn out onto
a wire rack to cool completely.
3 Using a large serrated knife, halve
cakes horizontally and set aside.
Combine 2 tbsp whisky and the orange
juice in a small bowl.
4 For yoghurt filling, whisk yolks,
remaining whisky and 100gm brown
sugar in a bowl over a saucepan of
simmering water until pale and mixture
forms a thin ribbon (5-6 minutes).
Squeeze water from gelatine and whisk
into yolk mixture until cooled slightly.
Place 750gm drained yoghurt in a large
bowl. Whisk in yolk mixture to combine.
Refrigerate 100gm of the filling for icing.
5 To assemble cake, line base of a deep
18cm round cake tin with baking paper,
then line side with acetate (see note),
extending acetate 5cm above rim. Place
first cake layer in pan, brush with a
quarter of the whisky mixture, spoon
over a third of the cream mixture and
smooth the surface. Repeat with
remaining cake, whisky mixture and
filling, finishing with a cake layer. Brush
with remaining whisky mixture, then
refrigerate overnight to set.
6 For caramel, scatter sugar evenly over
base of a large frying pan; cook over
medium-high heat, stirring occasionally,
until sugar dissolves, then swirl pan until
a dark caramel forms (7-8 minutes).
Remove from heat, add orange juice (hot
caramel will spit) and stir to combine.
Cool to room temperature (refrigerate
if making ahead; bring to room
temperature to serve).
7 Turn out cake and carefully remove
acetate. Whisk sour cream and
remaining 10gm brown sugar to firm
peaks. Thinly spread cream mixture
over top and side of cake, using a
palette knife to neaten and expose cake
layers. To serve, drizzle with syrup and
top with figs and edible flowers.
Note Acetate sheets are available from
art-supply and specialty baking shops. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
117
Peach and Champagne jelly with crème fraîche panna cotta
BEGIN THIS RECIPE A DAY AHEAD
SERVES 12 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS SETTING, MACERATING)
3 ripe yellow peaches,
cut into 1cm cubes
55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar
30 ml peach brandy
Finely grated zest and juice
of ½ orange and ½ lemon
125 gm raspberries
Roasted flaked almonds
and edible flowers, to serve
PEACH AND CHAMPAGNE JELLY
750 ml Champagne or
sparkling wine
220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar
4 lemon thyme sprigs
4 ripe yellow peaches,
bases scored
4 titanium-strength gelatine leaves
(20gm), softened in cold water
118
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
CRÈME FRAÎCHE PANNA COTTA
ml pouring cream
gm caster sugar
tsp vanilla bean paste
titanium-strength gelatine leaves
(15gm), softened in cold water
2 tbsp lemon juice
600 gm crème fraîche
400
150
2
3
1 For peach and Champagne jelly, stir
Champagne, sugar, thyme and 500ml
(2 cups) water in a saucepan over
medium-high heat until sugar dissolves.
Bring to the boil. Carefully add peaches,
then bring to a simmer and weight with
a plate to submerge. Reduce heat to low;
simmer gently until peaches are tender
(10-15 minutes). Cooking time will vary on
ripeness of peaches. Remove pan from
heat, cool peaches to room temperature
in syrup (2 hours), then remove with
a slotted spoon. Peel and cut into
wedges. Strain 1 litre (4 cups) syrup into
a clean saucepan. Pour any remaining
syrup over peaches; refrigerate until
required. Bring reserved syrup to a
simmer over medium heat. Squeeze
excess water from gelatine, add to pan
and stir to dissolve. Pour mixture into the
base of
a 2.75-litre bundt cake tin and refrigerate
until jelly is firm (3-4 hours).
2 For crème fraîche panna cotta, place
half the cream, the sugar and vanilla
in a small saucepan and stir over
medium heat until sugar dissolves.
Scorched-honey parfait with hazelnut
dacquoise and agrodolce cherries
BEGIN THIS RECIPE A DAY AHEAD
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS FREEZING)
1 tbsp orange juice
1 tbsp brandy
Chopped roasted peeled hazelnuts,
to serve
HAZELNUT DACQUOISE
150 gm roasted peeled hazelnuts
100 gm icing sugar
1 tbsp plain flour
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
4 egg whites
55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar
Finely grated zest of ½ orange
SCORCHED-HONEY PARFAIT
6 egg yolks
150 gm honey
2 tbsp brandy
200 ml double cream
200 gm crème fraîche
AGRODOLCE CHERRIES
75 gm (⅓ cup) caster sugar
80 ml (⅓ cup) Pedro Ximénez 12-year
aged Sherry vinegar (see note)
1 cinnamon quill
Thinly peeled rind and juice
of 1 orange
300 gm cherries, pitted
Remove from heat. Squeeze excess
water from gelatine, add to pan and stir
to dissolve. Stir in lemon juice. Cool until
mixture is tepid (15 minutes). Meanwhile,
whisk crème fraîche and remaining
cream together until soft peaks form.
Whisk the tepid cream mixture into
crème fraîche mixture until combined.
Pour over the jelly, smooth surface, then
refrigerate overnight to set.
3 Stir diced peach, sugar, brandy,
citrus zest and juice in a bowl to
coat. Set aside to macerate, stirring
occasionally, for 15 minutes.
4 To serve, dip base of the bundt tin in
warm water to loosen jelly. Invert onto
a large serving plate. Top with poached
and macerated peach, raspberries,
almonds and edible flowers.
1 For hazelnut dacquoise, preheat oven
to 200°C. Grease and line a 22cm
square cake tin with baking paper.
Process hazelnuts, icing sugar and flour
in a food processor until finely chopped.
Whisk egg whites and a pinch of fine salt
in an electric mixture until soft peaks
form. Add caster sugar, 1 tbsp at a time,
until sugar is dissolved and meringue is
stiff and glossy. Transfer meringue to
a large bowl and fold in hazelnut mixture
and zest. Spoon into tin, smooth surface,
then bake until golden and cooked
through (20 minutes). Cool briefly
(5 minutes). Loosen edges with a sharp
knife and invert onto a wire rack to cool.
Line an 11.5cm x 21.5cm (top
measurement), 9.5cm x 19.5cm (base
measurement), 7cm-deep loaf tin with
plastic wrap. Cut 2 rectangles out of the
cake, one using the top measurement
and the other using the base
measurements. Discard offcuts.
2 Combine orange juice and brandy in
a bowl. Place smaller piece of cake in
base of lined tin and brush with half the
brandy mixture. Place tin in the freezer.
3 For parfait, whisk egg yolks in an
electric mixer on medium-high speed
until pale and doubled in volume.
Meanwhile, heat honey in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat until
caramelised (3-4 minutes). Remove from
heat, then add brandy and 1 tbsp double
cream (hot honey will spit). Swirl pan to
combine and stir in salt to taste. Reduce
mixer speed to low-medium and slowly
pour in hot honey mixture down the side
of the bowl. Increase speed to mediumhigh and whisk until cooled (6-8 minutes).
Whisk crème fraîche and remaining
cream in a bowl until soft peaks form,
then fold into yolk mixture in 3 batches.
Pour mixture over cake layer in loaf pan.
Return pan to freezer until slightly firm
(1 hour). Top with remaining cake layer
and drizzle with remaining brandy
mixture. Cover loosely with plastic wrap
and freeze overnight to set.
4 For agrodolce cherries, combine
ingredients, except cherries, with 2 tbsp
water in a saucepan and bring to
a simmer over medium-high heat. Add
cherries and simmer until cherries are
tender (5 minutes). Remove from heat;
refrigerate to chill.
5 To serve, turn out parfait onto
a chopping board. Serve thickly sliced
topped with agrodolce cherries and
syrup, and chopped roasted hazelnuts.
Note Pedro Ximénez 12-year aged
Sherry vinegar is available from specialty
food shops. If unavailable, substitute
Sherry vinegar. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
119
120
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Mango and lemon
verbena trifle
with verjuice jelly and
salted-lime meringue
BEGIN THIS RECIPE A DAY AHEAD
SERVES 12-14 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS INFUSING, SETTING, COOLING)
400
2
375
2
500
200
100
750
330
6
6
80
2
5
90
100
4
220
gm panettone, cut into 5cm pieces
large mangoes, cut into 2cm pieces
ml (1½ cups) Sauternes (see note)
lemon verbena sprigs
gm mascarpone
gm crème fraîche
ml milk
Mango slices, finely shredded lime
zest and passionfruit pulp, to serve
VERJUICE JELLY
ml (3 cups) verjuice
gm (1½ cup) caster sugar
lemon verbena sprigs
titanium-strength gelatine leaves
(30gm), softened in cold water
PASSIONFRUIT CURD
ml (⅓ cup) passionfruit juice
(from about 8-10 passionfruit)
tbsp lime juice
egg yolks
gm caster sugar
gm butter, chopped
SALTED-LIME MERINGUE
egg whites
gm (1 cup) caster sugar
Finely grated zest of 2 limes
1 For verjuice jelly, stir verjuice, sugar,
lemon verbena and 750ml water in
a large saucepan over medium-high
heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to the
boil; remove from heat and set aside for
flavours to develop (2-4 hours). Strain
syrup into a clean saucepan; bring to
a simmer. Squeeze excess water from
gelatine, add to pan and stir to dissolve.
Pour jelly mixture into a 5-litre trifle bowl;
refrigerate for at least 4 hours or
overnigh to set.
2 Meanwhile, for passionfruit curd,
whisk passionfruit and lime juice, yolks
and sugar in a bowl over a saucepan
of gently simmering water until thick
and pale (8-10 minutes). Remove from
heat; gradually whisk in butter until
incorporated. Refrigerate until chilled
(3 hours).
3 Arrange panettone in a single layer
over jelly, crumble in any offcuts to fill
gaps, then scatter over mango. Drizzle
over 250ml (1 cup) Sauternes; refrigerate
until required. Place remaining Sauternes
and lemon verbena in a small saucepan
and bring to the boil. Remove from heat,
cool, then strain. Whisk mascarpone,
crème fraîche, milk and strained
Sauternes mixture in an electric mixer
until firm peaks form. Spoon evenly over
mango layer. Refrigerate until required.
4 Whisk passionfruit curd to loosen.
Spoon evenly over mascarpone layer.
Refrigerate to set lightly (1 hour).
5 For salted-lime meringue, whisk
egg whites and sugar in a heatproof
bowl over a saucepan of gently
simmering water until sugar dissolves
and a thermometer inserted into the
mixture reads 70°C. Transfer meringue
to an electric mixer and whisk on high
until cool and very thick (10-12 minutes).
Whisk in ½ tsp fine salt and lime zest
until combined.
6 Spoon meringue over the curd layer,
then, using the back of a spoon, create
peaks and swirls. Arrange mango slices
and passionfruit pulp around meringue.
Using a blow torch, toast meringue until
golden. Serve scattered with lime zest.
Note Sauternes is a French dessert
wine. If unavailable, substitute another
sweet wine, such as botrytis semillon.
Passionfruit curd will keep, refrigerated
in an airtight container, for up to 5 days.
Trifle can be assembled a day ahead
up to the end of step 4. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
121
Cardamom-pistachio pavlova with rose cream
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 11/2 HRS (PLUS MACERATING, COOLING)
300
30
1
6
1
3
20
250
2
1
1
125
500
55
3
gm caster sugar
gm brown sugar
tsp ground cardamom
egg whites
tsp white vinegar
tsp cornflour, sifted
gm slivered pistachio nuts, finely
chopped, plus extra to serve
Thinly sliced watermelon
and micro mint leaves, to serve
POMEGRANATE-LIME BERRIES
gm strawberries, quartered
tbsp caster sugar
tbsp pomegranate molasses
tbsp lime juice
Finely grated zest of 1 lime
gm raspberries
ROSEWATER CREAM
gm crème fraîche
gm (¼ cup) brown sugar
tsp rosewater
1 Preheat oven to 150°C. Draw a 20cm
circle on a sheet of baking paper. Place
paper, pencil-side down, onto a greased
oven tray. Combine sugars and
cardamom in a bowl. Whisk egg whites
in an electric mixer on medium speed
until soft peaks form, then add sugar
mixture, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking to
dissolve between each addition
(20-25 minutes). Increase speed to
high; whisk until mixture is thick and
glossy (5 minutes). Whisk in vinegar, then
fold in cornflour and pistachio. Spoon
and spread over marked circle on tray,
then using the back of a spoon, flick the
outside edges to form little peaks.
Reduce oven to 120°C. Bake meringue
until crisp (1¼-1½ hours). Turn off oven,
prop door slightly ajar and leave to cool
completely. Store meringue in an airtight
container for up to 1 day.
2 For pomegranate-lime berries,
combine ingredients except raspberries
in a bowl. Set aside to macerate, stirring
occasionally, for 15 minutes. Gently stir
in raspberries to coat.
3 Meanwhile, for rosewater cream,
whisk the ingredients in an electric
mixer until medium peaks form.
4 To assemble, place meringue on
a serving plate, top with rosewater
cream and decorate with watermelon,
half the pomegranate-lime berries, extra
pistachio and mint. Drizzle with a little
macerating syrup. Serve with remaining
pomegranate-lime berries on the side.
Spiced pineapple Christmas cake with rum-lime icing
BEGIN THIS RECIPE A DAY AHEAD
SERVES 14-16 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 3½ HRS (PLUS COOLING)
½ small (500gm) ripe pineapple
160 gm (1 cup) currants
100 gm (½ cup) each golden raisins and
crimson raisins, coarsely chopped
50 gm crystallised ginger, finely chopped
220 gm (1 cup) brown sugar
125 gm butter, melted, cooled
160 ml (⅔ cup) spiced rum
Finely grated zest and juice
of 1 orange and 1 lime
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
200 gm (1⅓ cups) self-raising flour
100 gm (⅔ cup) plain flour
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground star anise
¼ tsp ground cloves
3 eggs
250 ml (1 cup) well-shaken buttermilk
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
Coarsely crushed pink peppercorns
and finely grated lime zest, to serve
RUM-LIME ICING
200 gm icing sugar, sifted
1 tbsp each lime juice and golden rum
1 Preheat oven to 110°C. Line a large
oven tray with baking paper. Using
a mandolin, thinly slice half the pineapple
and arrange slices on the tray. Bake until
dried (2-2½ hours). Cool on tray. Store in
an airtight container for up to 1 week.
2 Meanwhile, core and coarsely chop
remaining pineapple (you need 200gm).
Purée pineapple in a food processor.
Transfer to a large saucepan with dried
fruit, ginger, sugar, butter, 80ml (⅓ cup)
rum and citrus zests and juice. Stir over
medium heat until sugar dissolves, then
bring to the boil. Cook until fruit is soft
and liquid is reduced (5-6 minutes).
Stir in bicarbonate of soda. Transfer to
a large bowl and cool (20 minutes).
3 Preheat oven to 170°C. Grease and
line base and sides of a 20cm square
cake tin with baking paper. Sieve flours
and spices into a bowl. Whisk eggs,
buttermilk and vanilla in a large jug until
combined. Stir buttermilk mixture into
cooled fruit mixture until combined.
Sieve over flour mixture and stir to
combine. Pour batter into tin; bake until
golden and centre springs back when
lightly pressed (50-60 minutes). Brush
hot cake with remaining 80ml (⅓ cup)
rum, wrap pan in foil, then in a tea towel;
cool. Un-iced cake can be made up to
2 days ahead.
4 For icing, stir ingredients until
combined. Set aside to thicken slightly.
Spread icing over top of cake. Decorate
with dried pineapple slices, pink
peppercorns and lime zest. Set aside for
icing to set completely before serving. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
123
HOLIDAY LIKE
YOU MEAN IT
WHEN YOU
ADVENTURE TO
NEW ZEALAND
Start the day exploring boutique
wineries and hidden eateries.
Back onboard, unwind and reach
peak zen mode at Vitality SM Spa,
then top off your evening with
jaw-dropping entertainment.
And that’s just one day of your
Royal Caribbean ® getaway…
HO LIDAY IN EVERY WAY
DECEMBER
Holiday magic
Casting off old traditions, our expert
guide to Bali’s most luxurious resorts,
exploring Italy by sea, and checking in
to a heritage getaway in Fremantle.
Amankila, Bali
p
128
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
125
Why is “self-care” rebranded as “selfishness” if
we do it at Christmas, asks ANNA HART.
126
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.
The art of…
breaking traditions
The art of travel
G
Anna is a travel
and lifestyle
journalist, and
author of the
travel memoir
Departures.
@annadothart
ive yourself an early Christmas gift: break
the first week of December to dutifully touring
a few traditions. Smash them on the
family members, because on Christmas Day, they
ground like the cheap plastic baubles they
take a delightfully empty flight to Peru, Thailand,
are. At this time of year, tradition is just
Dominica. They live in Denmark, where for all the
a fancy decorative word for familial guilt, societal
“hygge” propaganda, the weather is brutal and most
control and obsolete rituals.
people are depressed by Boxing Day. They have
Most of us love certain things about the festive
clashing work schedules so this is their sole
period, whether we’re celebrating Christmas, or
opportunity for a two-week holiday. Every year they
Hanukkah, Eid al-Fitr, or simply a few days away
look forward to being blandly asked about their
from our stupid workplace.
“Christmas plans”, because their plans always knock
But at this time of year I observe sensible
the socks off anyone else’s.
humans guilt-tripped by “tradition” into spending
A Melbourne-based university professor has
time and money on all the wrong stuff. It can be
told me about her favourite festive tradition, which
a month of saying, “I should”, “I must”, “I have to”
she gleefully calls “buggering-off on Boxing Day”.
instead of a nice bright “I want to”. No more!
I suspect this is pretty self-explanatory, but she
Years ago, a London-based chef I know adopted
throws a dazzling Christmas Day celebration at her
the decidedly anti-Christmas tradition of Dry
Brunswick East apartment for friends who haven’t
December. He feels he doesn’t stand a chance of
been guilt-tripped into returning to the provinces,
fulfilling his professional and personal duties with
pays a cleaner “a fortune, but worth every penny” to
alcohol in the mix, and this has transformed how he
clear up the mess on Boxing Day, because at 10am
feels at the end of the year. Also,
she departs to a spa in Tasmania.
he whispers, everyone is so drunk
A Christmas travel rebellion
At this time of year,
in December that nobody notices
can be of a gentler hue: a friend
tradition is just
he’s not drinking. He looks
transformed her Christmas visit
a
fancy decorative
forward to his subversive
to her mum’s in Wales by
December detox, a radical act of
booking an Airbnb nearby rather
word for familial
rebellion, prioritising his health
guilt, societal control than cramming herself and her
over bullshit social conditioning.
husband into the spare room.
and obsolete rituals.
Similarly, I love the growing
Having her own space makes
trend among families and friends
Christmas feel like a fabulous
to abandon adult gift-giving (it’s accepted that whiny
holiday with access to family, rather than as if she’s
children must be subdued with some Lego or
stepping back into the role of a sulky teenager at 35.
whatever) and instead put all the cash in a pot and
This December, I’m writing from Patagonia,
blow it on a memorable experience, like a night in
where hoteliers tell me they’re facing their busiest
a lighthouse. Honestly, we all have enough junk,
Christmas period ever. I’ve accidentally found
and most of us are financially capable of buying our
myself in a robust tribe of Christmas rebels,
own junk in the colour we prefer.
travellers who plotted in advance to prioritise their
I am also supportive of people who dine out at
long-lusted-over Patagonian adventure over the
Christmas, rebelling against outdated depictions of
weight of societal expectations and flee the
what Christmas day “should” look like. (Which is
seasonal tweeness of home.
a weird collage of colonial Ye Olde British Empire
I’m learning from them. The more I stare at my
propaganda, latently sexist 1950s American
return flight to Belfast in late December, the dafter
advertisements and 1990s romcoms.) Why not enjoy
it seems to depart the delightful southern
this self-important meal the best way they know
hemisphere to return to a dark, soggy isle purely to
how, placing Christmas dinner in the hands of
see my loving family members who genuinely want
professionals instead of anxiety-addled amateurs?
me to do whatever is right for me. I’m currently
But of the many Christmas expectations that we
working out how much of a Christmas rebel I am,
should regift as a matter of urgency, particularly
and what my Christmas travel rebellion should look
obstructive is the idea that Christmas is a time to be
like. We all have people we don’t want to hurt at
at “home”, or trapped in someone else’s “home”,
Christmas, people we hope to make happy. But
doing “homely” things for the holidays.
whatever our circumstances, I reckon we all have
One of the smartest couples I know dedicates
room for a bit more rebellion this Christmas. ●
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
127
Words JOANNA HUNKIN, JORDAN KRETCHMER & ANNA McCOOE
Tried and tested by our
editors, this is our definitive
guide to luxury stays on
the Island of the Gods.
B
y infatuation or fated obligation, Bali
is inevitable for Australians who travel.
The tropical Indonesian island is for
weddings, birthdays, and
multigenerational hangs amid the colourful
processions of Bali-Hindu tradition. It’s
a meeting point for distance-challenged
relationships, an easy escape, and a place to
recover a mislaid soul. And it serves all these
purposes with the promise there will be a daybed
somewhere glorious with your name on it.
Then comes the downside of broad appeal;
with mass tourism comes the crush of
overdevelopment. And in Bali that means traffic,
crowds, or just finding yourself in a chlorinated
version of Balinese culture. Get it right, though,
and there is brilliance to be discovered. Our
guide has been road-tested by us to pinpoint
resorts where luxury runs deep. This is not the
Bali that has “something for everyone”, it’s more
distilled than that. With relatives, with friends
or a partner… this is how GT does Bali.
BEST FOR
SECLUSION
PHOTOGRAPHY CANDRA SANCHEZ (DISH).
Clockwise from
top left: Raffles’
Hilltop Pool
Villa Terrace;
the Writer’s Bar;
a dish at Rumari.
Opposite, from
top: the pool
and Restaurant
at Amankila.
Raffles Bali
Set in 23 hectares of lush, tropical gardens and native
jungle, seclusion is the name of the game at Bali’s
newest super luxury resort, which opened in Jimbaran
Bay in late 2021. Each of the property’s 32 private
villas sits enclosed behind a gated front garden, with
its own private infinity pool offering panoramic views
of the bay below. Signature private dining
experiences include a lantern-lit private dinner in The
Secret Cave, dining alfresco on The Farm Terrace, or
an oceanfront feast in the Purnama Honeymoon Bale.
Guests can also opt to take their spa treatments in
a hidden hillside suite, The Sanctuary, where the
soundtrack comes courtesy of the native fauna
frolicking in the surrounding jungle. With a wellbeing
butler on hand to satisfy your every whim, guests can
easily go their entire stay without ever crossing paths
with another guest if they so choose.
Prices start from $2635 per night for a private villa.
rafflesbali.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
129
130
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
OPULENCE
Delicately and with sigh-inducing reverence, Mandapa
hits all the high-end touchpoints. On arrival, the
ubiquitous chilled towel and cool drink combo is
elevated with a Kautuka thread ritualistically tied to
wrists in the lobby – part ancient temple, part lounge,
overlooking the magnificent Ayung Valley. There’s no
waiting to check in, instead guests head to their suite
(one of 35) or pool villa (25) where their patih (a king’s
assistant) takes care of registration (and later check
out) in the room.
Mandapa is one of just five Ritz-Carlton properties
in the world to earn the “Reserve” tag and it wears it
well. Villas feature a separate pool cabana, indoor/
outdoor bathrooms and traditional touches courtesy
of starchitect Jeffrey Wilkes. Even the entry-level
suites are endowed with hand-painted murals, shell
pendants and woven ceilings. Rattan bags and hats
are ready to use while citronella spray, face mist and
suncream are also provided.
Sawah Terrace serves breakfast, including fresh
pressed juices, flaky pastries and à la carte items
spiked with caviar and foie gras while on Sundays
Sawah also hosts a regal Indonesian brunch. Come
sunset, Ambar Ubud Bar has the best views along
with stellar cocktails and Japanese dining while the
Pool Bar is as good a place as any to splash some
BEST FOR
Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Clockwise from
top: Mandapa’s
exterior;
relaxing at
Mandapa Spa.
Opposite, from
top: bedroom
interiors at Four
Seasons
Jimbaran Bay;
a villa’s infinity
plunge pool.
cash, except for the parade of complimentary fresh
coconuts, snacks, and mandarin popsicles. At evening
turndown sweet Balinese treats are left in the room
(as one might anticipate at this level). Less expected,
the contents of formerly haphazard suitcases have
been sorted and folded. Mandapa sees to guest’s
expectations and raises them a few surprises.
Prices from $2093 per night for a balcony suite.
ritzcarlton.com
Family holidays are levelling up at Four Seasons
Jimbaran Bay where exemplary service extends to
micro details and tiny people. The resort embraces
the Balinese family-forward way of life to make
children and their parents feel at ease from arrival
– notably with the presentation of a batik backpack
filled with toys and activities along with chilled towels
and honey and ginger elixirs in the open-air lobby.
Four Seasons opened back in 1993, snaring
a prime position on Jimbaran’s white sand beach next
to the traditional seafood barbecue vendors the area
is famous for. And thanks to a renovation from 2015 to
2017, the established player shines alongside Bali’s
bright young things. Villa interiors by Jaya Ibrahim (an
Aman favourite) showcase an impossibly chic take on
STAR FAMILIES
PHOTOGRAPHY MARKUS GORTZ.
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay
BEST FOR FIVE
BEST
OF
BALI
Balinese style with floaty canopies over the super-sized
beds, ikat fabrics and antique doors. Each of the 147
villas has an infinity plunge pool – another big tick on
the family wish list along with complimentary holiday
necessities such as sunscreen and pod coffee.
Scooting around the property in golf buggies,
guests are encouraged to visit the resort temple, and
to experience Balinese dining at Jala. The trump card
for families is the new Umah Rare kids club, with
paddling pool, games, movie nights and activities
including kite making, all perfectly paired with a
Healing Village Spa and Rossano Ferretti Hair Salon
for the parents. Luxe family bonding guaranteed.
Prices from $1082 per night for a garden villa.
fourseasons.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
131
132
S I LV E R S E RV I C E
BEST FOR
BEST
OF
BALI
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Amankila
“Excuse me Ibu, may I clean your sunglasses?”
A scraped knee initiates a first-aid kit without asking,
luggage is treated to new leather tags on the sly, and
fresh tuberose arrangements appear in rooms like
magic. This is Aman life and it is addictive (the reason
fans are known as Aman junkies).
In terms of heightened luxury in Bali, Amankila
(1992) and her jungle sister Amandari (1989) are the
prototypes. Trailblazer Adrian Zecha opened them as
the second and third properties in the Aman portfolio
after rewriting the rules at Amanpuri, Thailand in 1988.
His idea was to transplant the service of Asia’s grand
hotels to relaxed settings (in this case to Bali’s quieter
west coast). All while working with local cultures to
strengthen the connection to place.
In this 33-guest pavilion cliff-hanging paradise,
career-defining architecture by the late Ed Tuttle taps
into the calmness and craft of the Balinese vernacular.
Thatched roofs hover over black and white gingham
daybeds, the three-tiered pool mirrors terraced rice
paddies and there are wood carvings aplenty, but the
palette is limited to sun-bleached sandstone, beige
and white – a muted stage for cooking classes and
kecak dance performances.
Our less mobile readers should be warned, not all
rooms have pools and there are many stairs to climb.
And while some of the resort’s game-changing
secrets have spread across Bali since inception, only
Amankila has this backdrop of crashing waves, this
private crescent of black sand and service this
intuitive. If Amankila is a throwback to luxury Bali in
the 1990s GT will gladly take it.
Prices from $1977 per night for a garden suite.
aman.com
LA DOLCE VITA
BEST FOR
PHOTOGRAPHY TOMMY PICONE.
Clockwise from
left: the dining
room at
Bulgari’s
Sangkar; the
magnificent
villa and pool at
Bulgari Resort
Bali.
Bulgari Resort Bali
Located in a part of Bali best known for its impressive,
Amalfi-like cliffs, the luxurious quarters of the Bulgari
Resort merge Italian design sensibilities with Balinese
architectural motifs to dramatic effect. With high stone
walls crafted from the surrounding cliffs’ limestone,
each villa is poised to take in maximum views in utter
privacy. With 55 villas (and three private residences)
the resort feels distinctiy private and personal, even at
full capacity. This is also thanks to the personal butler
and instantaneous buggy service. The cliffside bar
may just be one of Southeast Asia’s most beautiful
hotel bars; while a 12-course dégustation at Il
Ristorante – Luca Fantin hits out with big-ticket
seafood imports and new takes on Italian classics.
The spa will have guests recalling the experience for
years to come; a private beach includes a spectacular
inclinator ride; and guests have exclusive access to
the Bulgari boutique. It’s pure glamor from check in to
check out. The don’t-lift-a-finger nature of Bulgari’s
offering makes a compelling case for total immersion
in the private compound for the entire duration of a
Bali stay.
Prices from $2000 per night for a villa.
bulgarihotels.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
133
REBOOTING
BEST FOR
Buahan A Banyan Tree
Clockwise from
top: a Banyan
Tree rainforest
pool bale
bedroom; a tub
with a view.
134
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
“Uninterrupted views” is a term lobbed around far too
often, but when a hotel doesn’t have walls it’s truly
non-stop postcard-perfect vistas. At Buahan this
translates into 16 rooms, each perched on a 22-metrewooden deck platform, free from traditional walls. To
call it a treehouse severely undersells it, given the
thoughtful architecture with Balinese carvings and
chic interior details, from artworks inspired by the
sounds of the natural surroundings through to the
block print-inspired sarong and robes.
Back in your “room” there’s shielded curved
bathrooms for privacy, with a deep copper tub. Each is
cleverly plotted to ensure despite the lack of external
walls, there’s no lack of privacy. Come nighttime, sheer
curtains are drawn while beds are turned down, an
arak-spiked Negroni is poured and a fire is lit. In the
morning you awake to the sight of a jungle cloaked in
a shawl of cloud, and gentle coos of white-breasted
waterhens. On each winding path through the jungle
from your room to the (excellent) spa or private
waterfall, you’re surrounded by banana blossoms,
frangipani and mosquito-repelling plants.
All meals are served at a poolside bale, where the
open kitchen’s beaming staff prepare meals crafted
from the bountiful surrounds. Said meals blend truly
local specialties – perhaps lontong sayur (pressed
rice pieces in coconut milk soup) or nasi liwet with
tempeh bacem (aromatic coconut rice with Indonesian
tofu) – with clever preserves and forward-thinking
vegetarian plates. If you’re feeling inspired by what’s
on the plate, guests can join in a private cooking
class, where you’ll learn the art of smashing sambal
and cooking smoky pork satay.
This constant greenery and lack of screens gives
this resort an indelible sense of place, offering visitors
a tech-free shower for the mind and refuge for
the spirit.
Prices from $3050 per night for a rainforest
pool bale, escape.banyantree.com
and finery. Plus Rimba, with its water slide and kids’
club, is suited for young families while social media
hotspot Ayana Resort, is better left to the aspiring
influencers in the group. Guests at all sister properties
can skip to to the front of the line for the inclined
elevator to Rock Bar for sunset drinks or Balinese
seafood on the sand at Kisik. Our tip? Head directly to
Kubu Beach club for daybeds and tasty eats set into
the cliff where guests will feel far away from the rest
of the world – travelling companions included.
BEACH CHIC
Prices from $557 per night for a resort view room.
ayana.com/bali/
BEST FOR
Opened in November 2022, Segara is the 205-room
hip hotel within Ayana Estate, a 90-hectare megaresort with four sibling hotels to go between, each
catering to a different type of traveller.
With its wave-like architecture, Segara is the chilled
sister in the Ayana family. Think cold-drip coffee and
sangria served by the indoor-outdoor pool and gin
and lemongrass cocktails hitting the mark at Luna, the
adults-only rooftop pool bar. And it’s a final low-key
luxe piece in the puzzle that places Ayana Estate as a
fitting all-in holiday spot for multi-generational groups.
It joins Ayana Villas, complete with butlers, buggies
and private pools, for those who need more space
Clockwise from
top: Ayana
Segara’s Luna
rooftop pool
bar; Anantara’s
ocean view pool
suite.
BEST FOR
Ayana Segara
M U LT I G E N E R AT I O N A L STAYS
BEST
OF
BALI
Anantara Uluwatu
Among the buzz of the Bukit Peninsula, Anantara
Uluwatu provides the polish and convenience of
a large hotel and the privacy of a cliffside villa; all
while offering access to Bali’s newest, fast-growing
digital nomad hotspot. Set back from the electric and
evolving Jalan Labuan Sait, the calm compound offers
welcome respite, with its picture frame-like lobby
overlooking the ocean and lush bougainvillea and
heliconia-dotted gardens. Each room’s poolfront vistas
have 180-degree views of the Indian ocean – so you
can check the surf or perhaps spot a frolicking whale
– and while most rooms are adjoined, each feels
private. Anantara will also continue to make an imprint
on the Island of the Gods, with the opening of the
highly anticipated Anantara Ubud due next year.
Prices from $537 per night for an ocean view
pool suite. anantara.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
135
CHECKING IN
Warders Hotel, Fremantle
We take the guesswork out of travel with our tips on where to
stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits WA’s port city.
Fre man tl e ,
WA
S T A Y
Quick
look
136
Once upon a time, the old limestone cottages overlooking Henderson Street housed Fremantle Prison
warders. Today, it’s clued-up visitors to Fremantle that call these heritage-listed buildings home: even if
just for a night. When it opened in 2020, Warders Hotel brought hip boutique accommodation option to
the area and competition for the hotel’s 11 rooms was tight, especially over weekends. Following the
opening of the hotel’s second wing in July, Warders’ capacity has doubled. And there’s a lot to enjoy.
A sensitive design by Matthew Crawford Architects has preserved the buildings’ historical patina
(weathered timber floors, original stonework) while introducing modernities such as smart TVs and
in-room still and sparkling water taps. The complimentary minibar is stocked with tinnies from Calamity’s
Rod and tea from local tea merchant Chai Baba is also on hand. But if you’d rather someone else
made your drinks, two bars are at your service. Corner bar Gimlet, the hotel’s homage to the European
café and Emily Taylor, an Asian-inspired kitchen and bar in the courtyard. wardershotel.com.au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
Where
19-29 Henderson St,
Fremantle, WA
Facilities
Prices from $299
per night for a
Terrace room
Hotel bar Yes, two
Room service Yes
Free Wifi Yes
D A Y
T R I P
Checking in
Beaches are a way of life out west. For a low-key,
family-friendly experience, seek out tranquil South
Beach. Need a little more action? Hit Port Beach
where beachside pub Coast and weekend saunas
await. At sunset, the whole western coastline puts
on a show. Take it in with a walk out to South Mole
Lighthouse over Bathers Beach on one side and
the harbour on the other.
M U S I C
Freo loves live music. While touring acts often
play at Fremantle Arts Centre, Mojos and
Clancy’s Fish Pub have long supported
emerging artists. Hankering for some live
country and western? Honky Tonk is calling.
E A T
WORDS MAX VEENHUYZEN. PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (LIGHTHOUSE & GUITAR).
Clockwise from above: South
Mole Lighthouse; Gado Gado
at Suku and its interiors; live
music and small plates at
Nieuw Ruin.
Breakfast
Lunch
Located next to Warders Hotel,
the Fremantle Markets house
a wondrous array of eating and
drinking options. Black Cherries
Espresso sling some of the city’s
best coffee while gozleme, burek
and other Turkish pleasures make
Palace Patisserie essential. A short
drive away, Hinata Cafe is the
Japanese-style café of your dreams.
Sandwiches of a higher order are
the calling card of Peggy’s,
a fresh-faced café in a historic,
white-washed shop. Nearby, bread
is also integral to the pleasures of
Bread in Common, a breezy mess
hall-style diner and bakery.
Bold Indonesian flavours ensure
Suku stays busy through the day:
be sure to get the nasi Bali!
Dinner
Nowhere embodies Freo’s Italian
heritage like Capri, an old-school BYO
restaurant that’s been serving family
cooking for generations. At the other
end of the scale, Nieuw Ruin does the
fun wine and small plates thing with
aplomb while urban distillery Republic
of Fremantle successfully argues the
merits of food and cocktail pairing. Or
try Emily Taylor for a tomahawk to share.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
137
I TA LY b y S E A
During a cruise of the Mediterranean Sea with port stops
in Italy, KATRINA HOLDEN discovers la dolce vita on
board the new-look luxury ship Crystal Serenity.
D
own laneways flanked by walls adorned
with mural art, people are buying their
daily groceries, choosing from brightly
coloured fresh fruits and vegetables
shaded beneath lime green umbrellas. On the
balconies of 18th-century apartment blocks, a lady
is shaking clean her linen, while others are
sweeping between decorative potted plants. Italian
flags and blue-and-white checked Napoli World
Cup bunting is draped from nearly every
balustrade. The tooting from passing motorbikes
reminds me to look forwards again at eye level, as
we make our way through the lively, working-class
district of Sanità in Naples, Italy.
138
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
I’m in Italy’s third-largest city by population
on a port stop during a European cruise aboard
the newly refurbished luxury ship, Crystal Serenity.
The cruise brand, in operation for more than
three decades, was acquired in 2022 by the
Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) Travel Group,
securing its two most prized vessels: Crystal
Serenity and Crystal Symphony.
Today, I’m immersed in the fascinating and
gritty city of Naples (Napoli) with a local A&K
guide, Rosana. She’s so passionate and proud to
share her multi-layered city with us that, at the
entrance of Santa Chiara, the largest Gothic
church in Naples, her volume rises occasionally
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES & KATRINA HOLDEN.
as she divulges historical anecdotes to our small
group, prompting an instruction to “shoosh” from
a priest as we stand at the church entrance.
“Mi scusi, padre,” she offers in sincere apology.
Rosana has taken us past San Carlo Theatre,
the world’s oldest working opera house; and the
impressive 19th-century shopping mall, Galleria
Umberto; and to Caffé Gambrinus Napoli –
established in 1860 and once frequented by
Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway and Sigmund
Freud – where we sample the renowned
Neapolitan espresso and classic local pastries
including the buttery, shell-shaped sfogliatella,
and babà sponge cake, soaked in liqueur.
Now, after a short walk through Sanità, we
arrive for our next culinary highlight: lunch and
a pizza dough making experience at restaurant
Concettina ai Tre Santi. The Michelin-starred
pizzeria has been run by the Oliva family for more
than 60 years and draws its own crowd of loyal
clientele (Rosana tells us that actor Robert De
Niro had visited just days prior). A red Vespa is
parked prominently out front. Inside, we spend
several hours lost in good food and conversation,
seated at a group table against a brick wall, with
a religious nativity set protruding from a shelf
above us. We sip on welcome aperitivo of Spritz
and prosecco as our starters arrive: garlic flatbread
pizza, mixed green salad with buffalo mozzarella,
Clockwise from
top: Crystal
Serenity’s
penthouse
suite; pastries
and coffee
at Caffé
Gambrinus
Napoli.
and panino annarella and
tonino mini sandwiches.
We don aprons as our
group is called to try our
hand at making pizza dough
in a nearby facility. Our
tutor doesn’t speak a word
of English and guides us
by demonstrating, while
a translator helps fill in the
blanks. The language of food,
however, is universal and soon
we’re all exchanging laughter
and gestures about our attempts
to mix yeast into our flour and
water mixture. One by one, we
search our leader’s expressions
for his approval as we knead
dough onto a floury surface. In turn, we receive
either a thumbs-up, a so-so gesture, or in the case
of one fellow travel companion, we’re left in no
doubt as our tutor reaches over, grabs the
toughened lump of dough from his hands and
hurls it, theatrically, into the bin.
We clean up and wander back to the restaurant
in giggles, thankful that we won’t be dining on our
own amateur pizza dough. As the main course pizze
arrive, our waiter ladles a tomato pizza sauce onto
a pizza stand, topping it with fresh parmesan ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
139
The Italian flavours (and charm)
continue... I have signed up for
a farm-to-table experience and
wine tasting in Tuscany.
140
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
PHOTOGRAPHY TOM GRIFFITHS.
Clockwise from
left: Davide at
Fattoria Vialto;
fresh pasta at
Fattoria Vialto
Galleria
Umberto in
Naples.
shaved on the spot, basil leaves
first clapped between his hands
then sprinkled, followed by
a thin pizza base pressed into
place. He pulls a piece of the
bread with his hand, smudges
it into the tomato sauce and,
without missing a beat,
hand-feeds it to one of our guests. Prego!
The Italian flavours (and charm) continue at
another port stop in Livorno. While some guests
venture ashore to visit Pisa, I have signed up for
a farm-to-table experience and wine tasting in
Tuscany, about a 40-minute drive from where
our ship is docked. We are driven past an
unmistakeable Tuscan landscape of vineyards,
and olive, poplar, oak and Cypress trees before
we turn into the entrance of Fattoria Vialto –
a working farm run by husband and wife team,
Davide and Francesca.
Davide collects us at the farm’s entrance,
wearing a broad and welcoming smile on his
sun-tanned face, and a slightly wonky straw hat.
We climb aboard a horse-drawn red carriage as
Davide steers the animals down the long drive,
through the farm and fields of sunflowers,
explaining he’s just harvested fava beans while
pointing to the olive trees from which they
produce their own oils. He spontaneously bursts
into song, “I sing better than [Andrea] Bocelli,”
he confidently declares.
Outside the farm house, we are seated at tables
decorated in gingham tablecloths, as a typical
Sunday Tuscan feast is served. We dine on
sourdough topped with estate olive oil, prosciutto,
cheese drizzled with truffle honey, and platters of
homemade pasta ragù and Bolognese – while
sipping on Chianti and vermentino. With an
attentive audience, the scene is set for another
impromptu performance by Davide, this time with
wife Francesca who, at the end of his heartfelt
melody, pulls the straw hat aside to dab the sweat
from his face and seals it with a kiss on the lips.
Afterwards, we step inside the original
homestead for a tasting of Vialto’s estate-made
wines, along with grappa, and chocolate and
traditional limoncello. I glance up at the brick,
buttress ceiling to see the date stamp of 1368,
which Francesca confirms is the year the
farmhouse was created. I can’t resist buying
a bottle of their zesty and pure limoncello, taking
a little taste of Tuscany home with me.
Flavours at sea
On board the 740-guest Crystal Serenity, there’s 11
dining experiences to try during my six-day voyage.
An exceptional seafood experience is found at Umi
Uma — the only restaurant at sea by the esteemed
Japanese chef, Nobu Matsuhisa. In the sleek,
newly refurbished space, there are group tables and
a sushi-style counter where cuts of fresh sashimi are
displayed. The Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant
offers a selection of Nobu’s signature dishes
including Nobu-style black cod, grilled Chilean sea
bass, wagyu beef fillet steak, and some of the finest
sushi available at sea.
I’m enamoured with the interiors and refined
atmosphere at the Osteria d’Ovidio Italian
restaurant, named in honour of co-chairman of
A&K Travel Group, Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio.
Settling in to an intimate dining setting with fellow
guests, on a curved, rust-hued velvet banquette, I sip
on a Bellini and savour fine Italian cuisine such as
a starter of astice (lobster in Acquasale, tomato
essence and basil olive oil); tortellini di stracotto di
manzo (tortellini filled with braised beef, fig
vincotto and Gorgonzola); and agnello (lamb, sweet
onion, balsamic vinegar and sea asparagus). All
perfectly paired with the Italian coastal vistas.
At meal times, I choose from the all-inclusive
wines poured by sommeliers who can advise based
on my personal tastes.
Casual meals are taken at the tapas-style Tastes
Kitchen & Bar on Deck 12, serving a range of
noodles, salads, char siu bao, pizza, quesadilla and
seafood. I soon discover that the premium gelato at
Scoops Ice Cream Bar is a popular, afternoon
gathering spot – especially after a day of exploring
ashore. On sea-day sailings, a classic afternoon tea
is hosted in Palm Court, with pastries, quiches and
Clockwise from
top left: Umi
Uba by Nobu;
views on board;
dining at Umi
Uma.
cakes presented on a tiered platter and served
with Julius Meinl teas – or Champagne.
In my Sapphire Veranda Suite, my Brazilian
butler Jean has noted my hot and cold beverage
preferences and has stocked my complimentary
minibar accordingly. I can ask Jean to arrange
in-suite dining at any time, or book dinner
reservations for me. A voyage highlight soon
becomes savouring peaceful moments each
afternoon when Jean delivers canapés to my suite.
I settle into my outdoor balcony chairs, the indigo
blues of the gently moving Mediterranean Sea
reflecting in my sunglasses, as Jean pours me
a glass of Charles Heidsieck Champagne. Now
this is the way to savour Europe in summer. ●
BOOKING INFO
Crystal Serenity currently offers voyages to 111 destinations, including the
Mediterranean, Caribbean, Iceland, the Eastern seaboard, Canada, Baja
California, South America and the Panama Canal. Rates on Crystal
Serenity will vary, according to the voyage and cabin selection. As a
guide, rates for a Sapphire Veranda Suite on the 10-night Venice to
Athens voyage, departing 14 November, 2024, will start from $14,700 per
guest (based on double occupancy). The 606-guest Crystal Symphony
was relaunched in September, after an extensive refit, and will be sailing
locally in Asia, Australia and New Zealand from November 2023.
crystalcruises.com
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R
141
A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n
Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1
Australian Wild Prawns Bumper rains
have created a bumper harvest of
Australian Wild Prawns. They’re now
great value to match their unique
natural taste. RRP $17–$35 per kilo,
australianwildprawns.com.au
4
Gourmet Traveller Luxe subscribers
receive a print and digital 12-month
subscription, special editions, a bonus
cookbook, discounts off Gourmet Traveller
Gift Cards, Riedel twin pack glassware
and more. From $129.99, magshop.com.au
7
QAGOMA’s ‘Fairy Tales’ takes a fascinating
journey into a world where folklore,
enchantment and tales of caution intertwine
with art, design and film. Exclusive to
GOMA, Brisbane, ’til 28 Apr 2024. RRP
$10–28, qagoma.qld.gov.au/fairytales
Image credit: Kathryn Barton (artist & director) and Brendan Fletcher (director) / The Nightingale
and the Rose (still) 2015 / Courtesy of the artist and Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, Sydney.
2
Hong Kong is a foodie’s dream. Take a
cue from the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best
Restaurants list on where to dine in the city,
with The Chairman, Neighborhood, WING,
Mono and Caprice all making the cut.
discoverhongkong.com
5
Rockpool Degustation by Rockpool is an
intimate six-course dinner epitomising the
sophisticated dining for which Rockpool is
renowned. Thursday–Saturday. $195 per
person. Matched wines, $85 per person.
rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au
8
Sunbeam’s Australian Almond Meal is
made from premium-quality ground almonds
and is a delicious, gluten-free alternative to
flour, adding a nuttiness and unique texture
to your baking. RRP $12, sunbeamfoods.
com.au
3
Forty Spotted Tasmanian Gin Refresh your
summer with the Forty Spotted Citrus
Sonic, full of flavour from native botanicals
and with less calories than a regular G&T.
RRP $80, fortyspotted.com
6
Oceania Cruises’ new 2025 collection
features over 100 destination-rich
itineraries, plus nearly 50 Grand Voyages,
to alluring corners of the world. Enjoy
adventures aboard Oceania Cruises’ eight
small, luxurious ships. oceaniacruises.com
9
True North Cruises Indulge in the ultimate
festive itinerary. From the iconic New Year’s
Eve fireworks in Sydney Harbour, to the
spectacular sights of Pittwater and
Jerusalem Bay, this four-day adventure has
something for everyone. truenorth.com.au
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FASHION . HOME . BEAUTY
’Tis the season
Ruby-red accessories, best
beauty gift ideas, cool interiors,
and bold serving dishes.
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PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS.
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1 Nike Jordan 1 Low SE sneakers in
Pomegranate, $369, Farfetch. 2 Lip bag in
Signature Leather, $595, Coach. 3 Valentino
Garavani printed silk-twill scarf in Red, $380,
Net-A-Porter. 4 Laudon tumbler in Red, $120
each, Riedel. 5 Daisy print dress in Poppy,
$649, Oroton. 6 Rouge Allure Luminous Intense
Lip Colour in 96 Excentrique, $65, Chanel.
7 Poporcelain porcelain Red Cherry earrings,
$467, Wolf & Badger. 8 Diamond Crossbody
Cranberry Box calf leather bag, $3075, Jimmy
Choo. OPPOSITE So Kate heels in Red, $1495,
Christian Louboutin.
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Beauty
Whether you spoil yourself or
those on Santa’s list, here’s our
pick of the most luxurious
beauty products to bring joy.
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1 Maison Margiela Replica Lazy Sunday Morning limited edition candle, $99, Mecca. 2 Jean Paul Gautier Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum, $162, David Jones.
3 Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Blush & Glow Glide Palette, $50, Mecca. 4 Rouge Dior Forever Liquid Lipstick, $66, Dior. 5 Shadowstix Longwear Eyeshadow
in Gold Hoopz, $39, Fenty Beauty. 6 Byredo Night Veils Rouge Chaotique Eau de Parfum, $463, Mecca. 7 Plush Puddin’Z Intensive Recovery Lip Mask Duo, $50,
Fenty Beauy. 8 Rouge Allure L’Extrait High Intensity Lip Colour in Rouge Puissant, $81, Chanel. 9 Supremÿa At Night the Supreme Anti-Aging Skin Care, $1025,
Sisley Paris.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
GUTTER CREDIT
ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.
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10 Goddess Eau de Parfum, $275, Burberry. 11 Rock Lips Lipstick in Rocket Girl, $58, Charlotte Tilbury. 12 Le Labo Lavande 31 Eau de Parfum, $516, Mecca.
13 Poudre de Beauté Limited Edition Bronzing Powder in Éclat Soleil, $120, Gucci Beauty. 14 Burberry Kisses Liquid Matte in Russett, $56, Burberry. 15 Silky
Woods Perfume Concentrate, $315, Goldfield & Banks Australia. 16 Le Vernis Nail Colour in Tuxedo, $45, Chanel. 17 Foreo Bear Facial Toner, $449, Mecca.
18 Hourglass Voyeur Eyeshadow Stick in Moon, $55, Mecca.
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NATURAL ORDER
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E INSP
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PHOTOGRAPHY CÉSAR BÉJAR.
Bring the outdoors in with
a neutral palette, organic
shapes and raw textures.
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1 Axolight Bell pendant, $5820, Mondoluce. 2 Mesa rug, $1080, Armadillo. 3 Milano Cozy DC motor ceiling fan, $599, Fans City. 4 Marc Newson by
Noritake entreé plate set, $105, Living Edge. 5 Dama coffee table in Walnut, $4755, Poliform. 6 Abstract square cushion in Ivory, $119, Saardé. 7 Granite
Espresso, $34.95 for four, Robert Gordon. 8 Flow resin small salad bowl in Earth, $149, Saardé. 9 Custom steel pivot door, POA, Steel Window Design.
10 Baxter Nairobi table, from $16,665, Space Furniture. 11 Lode ottoman, $899, King Living. 12 Cuba chair papercord Carl Hansen & Søn, $2220, Cult
Design. 13 Bobby Clark x Leif Two Hands Boronia gift set, $99, Leif. 14 Muuto Raise tall glasses, $95 for two, Living Edge. 15 87 Degrees U Jar in Stone,
$570, Hibernate. OPPOSITE Casa Areca located in Tulum, Mexico, designed by CO-LAB Design Office.
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1 & Tradition Formakami JH5 Pendant Light, $415, Cult Design. 2 Drawing 17, $655, Living Edge. 3 Laurel limewash paint colour, $45 for 1 litre, Bauwerk
Colour. 4 Herringbone vase, $280, Living Edge. 5 Italian chocolate Aragosta dish, $495, Tigmi Trading. 6 Swatch mug in Indigo, $34.95, Robert Gordon.
7 Carl Hansen & Søn OW58 T-Chair T-Chair, from $2690, Cult Design. 8 Table en forme libre table by Charlotte Perriand for Cassina, from $19,277, Mobilia.
9 Volute platter in Smoke, $129, Maison Balzac. 10 Miele Pro Pureline Combination Steam Oven in Clean Steel, $9699, Harvey Norman. 11 Baxter Himba
chair, from $5190, Space Furniture. 12 HK Living frosted metal cutlery, $77.49 for set of three, Trouva. 13 Pepper, salt & spice grinder set in Blue, $194, Hard to
Find. 14 Chef Ceramics plate in Rustic Pink, $31.95, House of Orange. OPPOSITE Kitchen from the Wahroonga House designed by Tom Mark Henry Studio.
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HOM
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RETRO COOL
PHOTOGRAPHY DAMIAN BENNETT.
Embrace mid-century style with
dark timber and cool retro
accoutrements.
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Top serve
Elevate your summer entertaining with
bright pops of colour and playful shapes.
Clockwise from left: Dalmata deep risotto serving dish in Wheel Design, $56, Casa e Cucina. Umma marble platter in Crema, $280, Jardan.
Alex and Trahanas bowl stand in Aqua Green and Yellow, $360, Jardan. Geo bowl in Teal, $199, Fazeek. Maison Balzac Palmier platter, $169.
Alex and Trahanas oval platter in Sea Green, $280, Jardan. Graffito round server in White, $62, Casa e Cucina. Large serving plate in Sea Blue,
$32, Casa e Cucina. Maison Balzac Cloud serving spoons in Sky, $49.
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PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS
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