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OCT

The
restaurant
issue

Food
86

GOLD CLASS
Experience a taste of some of
Australia’s best restaurants.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.

Zucchini, pecorino and
basil tart...................................89
Wagyu and asparagus
skewers with charred
capsicum paste .................. 91
Whole snapper with orange
and pistachio sauce ............91
Smoked beetroot, agrodolce
and hazelnuts ......................92
Charred octopus with almonds
and mandarin.......................93
Tagliarini with crab, chilli, and
garlic.......................................95
Pizza fritta ..................................95
Coconut sorbet with dulce
de leche ................................96
Mango cup ................................97

98

CLASSIC MARTINI
Karen Martini shares some of
her favourite recipes in her
new book, Cook.
Kingfish kibbeh nayyeh ........ 101
Zucchini flower, wild rice, lentil
and yoghurt salad.............. 101
Prawn and poached chicken
vermicelli salad .....................102
Soba noodles with avocado,
sprouts, umeboshi and
sesame...................................103
Pea salad with golden garlic,
Sichuan pepper and ginger
dressing.................................104

106

FEED THE MOOD
Julia Busuttil Nishimura uses
flavour to evoke memories of
travel, occasion and mood in her
new book, Around the Table.
Salmon rice bowl with pickles
and ponzu ..........................108
Cold udon with pork and
cucumber............................109
Mushroom gyoza with
seasoned bean sprouts ...110
Temakizushi ............................110

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

7

OCTOBER 2022
ON THE COVER
Fugazzi’s tagliarini with crab,
chilli and garlic (p95)
Recipe Max Sharrad

Features
62

CONFESSIONS OF A RESTAURANT CRITIC
Gourmet Traveller shares a little insight into the life of
a restaurant critic, and how to be a better diner.

Photography Ben Dearnley
Styling Vivien Walsh

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UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.
FIVE OF A KIND Coconut cream

69
176

GT 2023 RESTAURANT AWARDS
Presenting the winners of the Gourmet Traveller 2023
Restaurant Awards.

THE 2023 RESTAURANT GUIDE
Celebrating the most exceptional dining experiences
to be found across Australia in 2023.

Travel

A QUICK WORD Laura Donnelly.
THE KITCHEN GARDENER Watercress.
COMMUNITY X KYLIE Sue Fennessy.
WINE COUNTRY McLaren Vale.
COCKTAIL HOUR Lychee Martini.
EVERYDAY Simple, fast everyday meals.
MASTERCLASS Mozzarella.
THE ART OF TRAVEL Surviving service abroad.
A CHEF’S GUIDE Lima, Peru.
STYLE Home, fashion and beauty.
OBJECTS OF DESIRE Pepper grinders.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY
Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the
Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we
now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet
Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.
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8

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

114
124

THE SOHO HOUSE EFFECT
Winnie Stubbs explores the universal appeal of
shared identity behind the creative industry’s private
members’ club, Soho House.

THE GOLDEN TOUCH
Joanna Hunkin checks into the new Queenstown
arrival changing opinions on hotel dining.

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South America. With A&K an adventure to the Americas will indulge your wildest imaginings.

Peru in Depth

Treasures of Argentina

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alongside welcoming locals and world-class
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Food
Group Food Director Sophia Young
Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Style
Creative Consultant Hannah Blackmore

Contributors
Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly, Michael Harden, Anna Hart,
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10

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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Refrigeration and Freezing

Editor’s letter

G

R ME

T

OU

Did you hear that? That was the sigh of relief
our entire team breathes as we close this issue, our
annual Restaurant Awards special. It’s our biggest,
brightest, and most stressful issue of the year.
The stress comes not from wining and dining
our way around the country (which, we are the first to
admit, is a very nice way to earn a crust) but rather the
pressure to get it right. To make sure we are sending
you, our readers, to experience wonderful things.
Things that will surprise and delight, and make
you relish the joy of dining.
The awards, along with our annual Restaurant
Guide, celebrate an industry that continues to excite
and excel amid ongoing challenges and change.
In this climate, simply keeping doors open is an
applause-worthy achievement.
You can read more about the state of the industry
and the judging criteria for this year’s awards in our
Restaurant Guide introduction. Consistency has
played a critical role in this year’s decision-making.
In turn, we have done our very best to be fair and
consistent – and stay true to our core purpose,
which is to serve our readers, above all else.

P

ED

WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH
A

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & JONATHAN VAN DER KNAAP (BOTANIC).

magshop.com.au/gmt
Details p142

Editor’s letter

SUBSCRIBE NOW

PROV

Sydney Airport Luxury Precinct
Airport delays have become
a new normal that we were really
not on board with...until now.
The arrival of Balenciaga, Bottega
Veneta, Loewe, Prada and Saint
Laurent to Sydney airport’s
T1 terminal are a very welcome
distraction. Bon voyage indeed!

Sheet Society Spring Collection
It’s the season of fresh starts and
new linen and Sheet Society’s
latest drop has us springing
into bed. Think earth tones,
powder blue and gingham, for
a crisp yet cosy night’s sleep.
sheetsociety.com

Louise Olsen x Alex and Trahanas
A good pair of earrings can get
you in the mood to dine out.
Especially the earrings in this new
jewellery collaboration, which are
inspired by chifferi pasta shapes
(as above) and Amalfi lemons.
dinosaurdesigns.com.au

Moët Birthdays
Here at GT, we have long
believed there are few problems
that can’t be solved with a little
Champagne – or in this case,
a personalised bottle of it.
Introducing Moët Birthdays,
a gifting service for the person
who has everything.
shop-au.moet.com

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

13

Contributors

The Soho House
effect

14

114

MATTY HIRSCH

WINNIE STUBBS

KAREN MARTINI

writer

writer

chef

The 2023 Restaurant Guide
This issue marks the second time
Matty Hirsch has served as the
assistant editor of GT’s Restaurant
Guide, which you will find in this
special issue. Yet, for the Sydneybased writer and editor, this year’s
edition feels especially vital. “To
say the last few years have been
a challenge for the hospitality
industry is nothing short of an
understatement,” says Hirsch. “If
there’s ever been a time to reward
tenacity, celebrate excellence and
get people excited about dining
out, this is definitely it.”

The Soho House effect, p114
Working in the travel media
industry in London, writer Winnie
Stubbs quickly became aware of
the enigmatic reputation of Soho
House, and the influence it has
had on London’s hotel landscape
at large. Now, following two years
of lockdowns, Stubbs reflects on
what the Soho House effect says
about the allure of a collective
creative identity. “The years of
restricted social interaction that
we’ve just experienced have only
highlighted our very human desire
to belong,” says Stubbs.

Classic Martini, p98
In Karen Martini’s latest recipe
tome Cook, she continues to forge
her name as one of Australia’s
hardest working and best loved
chefs and recipe writers. In this
issue we preview a snapshot of
it. “It is a deeply personal book,
crammed full of favourite recipes,”
says Martini. “Ones learnt from
my family, ones that have been
inspired by meals made for me,
both professional and homely,
ones that have featured on my
restaurant menus over the years,
and plenty of classics.”

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL BOUD (HIRSCH).

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AN AUSTRALIAN FIRST

Dishes and destinations
The Gourmet Traveller team share where
they’ve been and what they’re eating.

The Jackson Ranch, Bawley Point
Bannisters’ new South Coast estate brings
luxury to the bush. The ranch-chic property
sleeps 30 across homesteads, cabins and
an ultra-luxe bubble tent (pictured), making
it the multi-generational holiday of our dreams.
Anna McCooe, acting deputy editor

Ates, Blackheath
Centred around a 150-year-old
ironbark-fuelled oven, Ates in the
Blue Mountains is well worth the drive
for its fire-kissed share plates, such
as this kingfish wing which came
swimming in fragrant chilli butter.
33 Govetts Leap Rd, Blackheath, NSW
Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor

Queenstown, New Zealand
A quick stop in Queenstown didn’t leave
enough time for a day up the mountain
but we managed to squeeze in a decent
walk along the lakeshore, as we headed
to our favourite café The Boat Shed.
With two years between visits, I’m
pleased to report it’s as magical as ever.
Joanna Hunkin, editor

Freyja, Melbourne
Crisp heart-shaped waffles may sound cutesy,
but this golden starter from new wave
Nordic restaurant Freyja is in part a nod to
its namesake, the Norse goddess of love. Use
it to scoop up pops of Yarra Valley trout roe
with lightly smoked sour cream and dill fronds.
477 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic
Jordan Kretchmer, writer
16

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Pino’s Vino e Cucina, Alexandria
This pici all’aglione (a thick hand-rolled
spaghetti slicked in a garlicky tomato sugo)
was just one of the highlights delivered by
chef Cristiano Patacca at our neighbourhood
Italian hotspot. The family-run restaurant is the
sort of Italian local every suburb deserves.
199 Lawrence St, Alexandria, NSW
Lauren de Sousa, art director

Indulge In A Tantalising Cantonese
Fine-Dining Affair
T’ANG COURT HAS ARRIVED ON THE GOLD COAST.
HONOURING ITS MICHELIN-STARRED SISTER RESTAURANTS THROUGH ITS
AUTHENTIC TASTE AND FLAVOURS, T’ANG COURT PRESENTS ELEVATED CULINARY
MASTERPIECES PAIRED WITH A BESPOKE WINE LIST.
IT’S A NOD TO A DYNASTY THAT SHAPED A NATION.
langhamhotels.com/goldcoast

PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA NEWMAN.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

19

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S

Clockwise
from left:
dishes at Rekōdo
Restaurant and
Vinyl Bar; drinks
and snacks at
Gildas; the dining
room at Gildas.
20

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

The hotly anticipated Gildas has opened
in Surry Hills, with Lennox Hastie bringing
along some of the team from Firedoor to
create a menu of San Sebastián-inspired
bites. Highlights include three iterations
of the bar’s eponymous pintxo, alongside
a Sherry-focused wine list.
Just up the road, keep an eye out for
the forthcoming Bar Copains, which will
see Morgan McGlone (ex-Belles Hot
Chicken) team up with Nathan Sasi
(ex-Leigh Street Wine Room) for an
intimate wine bar on Albion Street.
In Barangaroo, Solotel and Matt
Moran’s new venue Rekōdo Restaurant
and Vinyl Bar has taken over the first
level previously occupied by Bea. While
chef Paddy McDermott will oversee
a Japanese-leaning menu, music will also
be a hallmark of the space, with a monthly
vinyl programmer and DJs.
Around the harbour, Alice is the new
bar continuing The Rocks’ resurgence.
Located basement level in the heritagelisted Argyle Street stores, you can
expect rich, jewel tones, sophisticated
cocktails and a drinks list that features
more than 30 French Champagnes.
Food-wise, Alice takes cues from sister
venues Rockpool Bar & Grill and Spice
Temple, with snacks including chicken
liver parfait profiteroles; fried chicken
with Sichuan salt; and a caviar service.
In more food-focused bar moves
Curly Lewis has opened in Bondi, by
the team behind Frank’s Deli. Think
Portuguese chicken burgers, and
prawns sautéed in Aleppo-pepper
butter, alongside tap-pulled hazy ales.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (GILDAS) & STEVEN WOODBURN (REKŌDO).

SYDNEY

News

Clockwise from left:
roast vegetable tarte
Tatin at Tillerman; Ogee
chef-owner Matt Breen
and restaurant manager
Rachelle Guastella;
March chef Peter Gunn
and sommelier Hayley
McCarthy; sweet and
sour quail at March.

PHOTOGRAPHY RÉMI CHAUVIN (OGEE), REBECCA NEWMAN (MARCH) & MILLIE TAN (TILLERMAN).

NORTHERN RIVERS
The Northern Rivers’ dining and drinking
boom is continuing, with the arrival of two
new wine bars in Byron. Bar Heather will
see the teams behind Lo-Fi Wines and
Luna Wine Store unite to open a natural
wine bar with Parisian flair. Chef Ollie
Wong-Hee will draw on his experience
at Ester, Sixpenny and Franklin to create
a wine-friendly snack list – be it a potato
chip with Comté and shiitake combo; or
confit duck with betel leaf and kohlrabi.
Owners James Audas and Tom Sheer are
sommeliers-turned-wine importers who
have worked across Noma, Oscillate
Wildly and LP’s Quality Meats.
Nearby, Moonlight – a hibachi grill
and wine bar – has opened. Restaurateurs
Kim Stephen, James Sutherland and
executive chef Robbie Oijvall (who all
worked together on Byron Bay modern
Asian diner Light Years) will bring
Japanese-inspired snacks and biodynamic
wines to the centre of town.
In the hinterland, You Beauty is
a 70-seat corner bar and dining room
awash in Australiana. The new Bangalow
pub boasts a stellar team including; chef
Matt Stone and local hospitality operators
Matt Rabbidge and Luke Sullivan of the
Mosey On Inn group (who are also
behind Ciao, Mate! and the Eltham Hotel).
Expect great drinks and considered,
veg-heavy dishes and pizza.

HOBART
Ogee is the third venue from local chef
Matt Breen (Templo and Sonny). Taking
cues from casual European diners, the
small but mighty venue is set to seat
24 guests. Diners can expect handmade
pasta, a vibe similar to Sonny but with
a slower approach to dining, and a full
à la carte menu, ideal for lingering a little
longer with a few wines.

MELBOURNE
Chef Peter Gunn has opened March,
a trim 20-seat bar adjacent to Ides.
For Gunn, March is an opportunity to
explore more casual cooking, while also
hosting Ides’s overflow. For punters, it’s
a chance to try the cooking of one of
Melbourne’s best chefs without
committing to a full set menu. Here it’s
all about shareable, drinks-friendly
snacks, such as sake-steamed pipis, or
beef tartare with kimchi dressing.
The CBD has welcomed one of its
first Cambodian restaurants, with siblings
Ivanra and Linna Hun cooking up stewed
beef noodle soup, Cambodian-style fried

pork and chicken on rice at Cambodia’s
Kitchen. Self-taught chef Hun, who grew
up in Phnom Penh, is hoping to grow
Cambodian food’s presence in the city.

BRISBANE
Andrew McConnell is set to open his first
restaurant outside Melbourne in 2023,
with Supernormal Brisbane.
Brisbane will also welcome Guy
Grossi, when the Melbourne chef brings
a slice of the Amalfi coast to his new
restaurant Settimo. Located within The
Westin Brisbane, the restaurant will draw
on Italian classics from his restaurants
Grossi Florentino, Ombra and Arlechin.
Tillerman is a new riverside seafood
restaurant from Andrew and Jaimee
Baturo (Libertine, Naga, Popolo and
The Gresham). Rather than focusing
on a single cuisine, fruits of the sea will
be the focus here, with head chef
Suwisa Phoonsang (ex-Naga) leading
the kitchen. This may include bacalao
(salted cod) croquetas, hand-picked
Queensland buttered mud crab and
salt-baked Murray cod.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

21

News

1

2

GLUTEN-FREE BAKERIES

3

CUTTING CORNERS
The legends behind Cornersmith
have always been passionate about
saving food, and their latest book
is a tome dedicated to salvaging
scraps, reusing leftovers and
rethinking food waste. Divided by
ingredient (so you can raid your
fridge then find inspiration), the
book has helpful recipes, storage
tips, inspiration and simple swaps.
$49.99, cornersmith.com.au

1

2

Sébastien Sans Gluten
This Leichhardt bakery regularly sells out of its muchloved buttery croissants and chocolate éclairs. Owner
Sébastien Syidalza trained in Paris and despite not being
gluten-free himself, has honed his craft to create entirely
gluten-free products that mimic the pastries he grew up eating.
131 Marion St, Leichhardt, NSW, sansgluten.com.au

3

Glazed
Former Vue de Monde chef Liran Adika had worked in
both Israel and New York before moving to Australia. Now
the pastry chef is baking sweet and savoury gluten-free goods,
including eggplant-laiden quiche, layered tiramisù and vegan
chocolate halva cheesecake.
2/1-3 Carre St, Elsternwick, Vic, glazedglutenfree.com.au

22

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Farm to table
When Scott Gooding and Matilda Brown started sharing
cows between friends (in an effort to know more about
where their meat came from), they couldn’t have foreseen
it would turn into a passionate business venture. These
days the Good Farm Shop is just that: a family- and ethically
focused shop where people can source beef, chicken, eggs,
duck, lamb, and pork from seven different regenerative farms
across New South Wales. You can shop nose-to-tail boxes,
unusual cuts and weekly boxes, alongside condiments,
wine and ready-made meals. thegoodfarm.shop

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (KUDO).

THREE OF THE BEST

Kudo
Husband and wife duo Felix Goodwin and Elena Nguyen
craft caramelised canelés, fluffy chiffon cakes and rye-style
miche loaves from the base of The Windsor Hotel. The chefs,
partners in life and in the kitchen, saw creating restaurant
quality breads and treats as a challenge (Goodwin is coeliac).
After two years of development Kudo is their bread-winning baby.
8 Little Collins St, Melbourne, Vic, kudobakery.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL HERRMANN-ZOLL (KOKO BLACK) & JESS KEARNEY (CAPERS BYRON BAY).

A FINE DROP
Some of Australia’s rarest wines will go under
the hammer on October 6 as Langton’s hosts
a live auction that includes the first-ever
vintage of Penfolds Bin 1 Grange from 1951.
That particular drop is expected to fetch up to
$160,000 on the night, setting a new record for
the most expensive Australian wine ever sold.
Henschke, Tyrrell’s, and Wynns Coonawarra
Estate, will all feature in the night’s bidding,
which will see 200 guests gather at The Eveleigh
in Sydney to bid on the collection of fine wines.
More records are expected to tumble as some of
the world’s most coveted wine goes up for sale,
including a methuselah of Louis Roederer
Cristal Brut 1990, and an eight magnum set of
Giaconda Chardonnay, signed by the winemaker.
To view the full catalogue and register for
telephone bidding, visit langtons.com.au

Byron’s escapades
With Byron Bay’s recent run of excellent restaurant and bar openings,
a new food festival is here to celebrate the upper East Coast’s culinary
prowess. Caper Byron Bay will bring together chefs for long lunches
(Harvest is set to do an ode to River Café; while Raes will host one too);
collaborative dinners (GT's Chef of the Year winner Thi Le will stop by
Barrio and Pip Sumbak will join the Three Blue Ducks), and one-off
events – think foraging, sourdough breadmaking classes, bottomless
oyster nights and horseback tours with picnics.
November 10-13, caperbyronbay.com

The chocolate box
Artisan chocolate maker Koko Black has joined forces
with Attica’s Ben Shewry to create what may be one of
Australia’s (if not the world’s) most ambitious and extravagant
chocolate boxes. Turning the courses that put Attica on the
map, chocolatier Remco Brigou has translated the series
of savoury dishes into a 10-course chocolate dégustation.
Shewry’s The Lamb Brick aka The Dish That Saved Attica
is morphed into a lamb floss, that adds a textural note to
a herb-infused bar; while the salty-savoury-sweet celebrates
the ultimate snack, Benmite and Crackers. The box also
comes with detailed tasting notes, a Dinosaur Designs
platter and Marlux pepper mill. If the full deg isn’t your
thing, you can also buy three of the chocolates separately.
Attica x Koko Black Dégustation Box, $449, kokoblack.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

23

Clockwise from above:
Yakut makes flatbread
in Kabul Social’s kitchen;
aushak; restaurant
manager Swita; head
chef Roya and Yakut; and
a spread of Afghan dishes.

24

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Cooking for change is the main driver behind Kabul Social, a new casual
eatery and social enterprise in Sydney’s CBD. Located within a busy corridor
off Wynyard Station, the Afghan restaurant’s concept and menu is devised by
a group of female refugees.
That menu sees the women sharing recipes from their homeland, adapted
for an easy Sydney lunch break stop: Afghan flatbreads are cooked to order,
ready to hug charcoal chicken and pickled onions or slow-cooked lamb with
a green chilli chutney. Or order up aushak and mantu – South Asian dumplings,
which see neat braid-like folds encase a herbaceous chive filling, or a soft
lamb parcel. Both iterations come dressed liberally with a spiced lentil sauce
and garlicky yoghurt. There’s also a build-your-own lunch box option, with
masala-spiced fries, charred veggies and charcoal cooked meats.
Whatever meal you purchase, two meals will be donated to Afghan
communities in need, the first donated through charity partner Mahboba’s
Promise, which helps widows and orphans in Afghanistan. The second meal
is donated through Plate It Forward, the local charity responsible for bringing
the restaurant to life.
Plate It Forward was set up by Shaun Christie-David and Peter
Jones-Best, and Kabul Social is its second community-minded restaurant,
joining Colombo Social in Enmore. Through its outreach work the team found
a vibrant community of Afghan women. Kabul Social is the result of giving
them a platform to cook, share their culture and create employment and
roots in a new city.
The women all fled Afghanistan due to ongoing political unrest and the
restrictions of human rights, particularly for women. Led by restaurant manager
Swita, the team of strong women share their cooking, while settling into life in
Australia. Yakut, dubbed the chief of bread, gets in early every morning to
prove dough for flatbreads.
Sticking with the theme of giving, Kabul Social’s entire fit-out was donated
by the Building Guild. Interiors are a bright Afghan blue, with tiling and
dinnerware sourced with a nod to the architecture of Afghanistan. Though the
quarters of Kabul Social are small, the kitchen is able to cater for offices and
meetings, meaning larger groups can enjoy the feel-good feast.
Co-founder Christie-David is passionate about helping people not only
through employment, but also through connection, which is sure (along with
the food) to be a highlight of Kabul Social. “The thing that motivates everyone
to share their authentic recipes is to showcase our similarities,” he says.
“We are more alike than we are different.”
MetCentre, 60 Margaret St, Sydney, NSW, kabulsocial.com

PHOTOGRAPHY KITTI GOULD.

THE SOCIAL FEED

News

NICE TO MEET YUZU
The crafty crew behind clever cocktail
bar PS40 has teamed up with Bizzarro
to create a new canned Spritz. The
bright yuzu and strawberry number
takes inspiration from the Sydney bar’s
peppy cocktail list and pops it in
a colourful and convenient can.
$26 for 4 x 250ml, ps40bar.com

Outback Spirit is the only tour company with
permission to travel through the heart of Arnhem
Land, the result of extensive consultation with the
traditional owners and the Northern Land Council.
The 12-night all-inclusive adventure offers a rare
insight into Arnhem Land’s Indigenous culture,
amidst a backdrop of pristine wilderness and
rugged landscapes. outbackspirittours.com.au

Oceania has announced its most ambitious year of cruise itineraries yet, including
a 180-day world cruise, and a two-ship odyssey that covers five countries in 74 days.
The 2024 and 2025 offerings are open for booking now. oceaniacruises.com

O N T H E PA S S

w i t h M AT T L A M B E RT

We chat to Kiwi chef Matt Lambert, executive chef of The Lodge Bar & Dining,
which sees food and fashion come together at Rodd & Gunn in Fortitude Valley.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE STRIKE (OUTBACK SPIRIT).

How did your relationship with Rodd & Gunn begin? I sent a very poorly worded
email saying “hey, I’m a dude from New Zealand who’s opening a restaurant in New
York, I grew up wearing your clothing, it would be really cool if you could do the
uniforms”. Luckily it went to the right people, and they were keen. Little did we know,
in four months we’d get the Michelin star – so you truly respect the people that
believed in you before anyone else did.
You opened The Lodge in Queenstown in 2016 and Auckland in 2020. How is
Brisbane different? The most significant change is a shift in provenance, rather than
championing the artisans of New Zealand and celebrating its land and ocean, we
have shifted the ethos to Queensland.
What is your food philosophy? My cooking is just about keeping things simple and
honest: amplifying the flavours of things as they are, as opposed to hiding them or
tricking people. Simple isn’t easy though, because there’s less to hide behind – you
need to make sure everything’s as it should be and your techniques are solid.
And what comes next? Melbourne is next, and we’re excited! Watch this space.
49 James St, Fortitude Valley, Qld, roddandgunn.com/au
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

25

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

A TA S T E F O R
ADVENTURE
Take to the road and discover Tasmania’s
bounty of food and wine for yourself
he best way to explore Tasmania’s rich offerings is
by car. Winding roads through historic towns and
stunning vistas are best taken slowly, giving you plenty
of time to enjoy all the food, wine and produce on offer,
whether you’re at a farm gate or enjoying fine dining.

T

GREAT EASTERN DRIVE
Seafood lovers are spoilt for choice along the pristine coastline
of Tasmania’s east. Keep it simple with oysters from Lease 65
on the way to Binalong Bay or sample some of the good
drinking that abounds – sip a glass with a view at Devil’s Corner
or take a whisky tour at Waubs Harbour Distillery in Bicheno.
SOUTHERN EDGE
The Huon Valley and D’Entrecasteaux Channel are brimming
with fine food and boutique wines. Enjoy a glass and a plate of
local bites at Mewstone Wines on the D’Entrecasteaux
Channel or take a look behind the scenes at a working
dairy with a farm tour at Glen Huon Dairy Co.
Willie Smith’s Apple Shed near Huonville is
a favourite for its seasonal menu, cider, Saturday
markets and Huon Valley history.

Briney local oysters at Mrs Jones
need little embellishment

PHOTOGRAPHY: S. GROUP, TOURISM AUSTRALIA AND LIAM NEIL

WESTERN WILDS
Visit Derwent Estate for cool-climate rieslings and
chardonnays and a light lunch, Lawrenny Estate
Distillery for true paddock-to-bottle whisky and gin,
then Westerway Raspberry Farm for freshly picked
berries and homemade preserves and sauces.
HEARTLANDS
Drive the Midland Highway and discover towns
that seem untouched by time. Oatlands’ historic
Callington Mill has recently been turned into a
state-of-the-art distillery and restaurant set
sensitively amongst sandstone Georgian
buildings, while the Old Kempton Distillery is
housed in a gracious stone mansion.
NORTHERN FORAGE
Recently proclaimed a UNESCO City of
Gastronomy, Launceston is the heart of Tasmania’s
bountiful north. Enjoy fine dining at Stillwater or
Timbre, then head west and follow the Tasting Trail
Cradle to Coast taking delicious detours along
the way. Enjoy a meal with a view over Bass Strait
at Devonport’s Mrs Jones, or settle in at Stanley’s
cosy Tasmanian Wine & Food.

NOT TO BE MISSED
ROOM WITH A VIEW
Kissed by fire and smoke, the hyper-local
and uniquely Tasmanian cuisine
of Marion Bay’s Van Bone, on
Turrakana/Tasman Peninsula, comes with
a side order of breathtaking coastal views.

OLD DOG, NEW TRICKS

Get up close and personal
with the rare breed cows
at Glen Huon Dairy Co

Don’t let the ’80s facade fool you,
The Waterloo Inn at Swansea is serving
up dishes to delight and a well-curated
list of mostly natural wines. Make your
selection from the blackboard menu
or let them feed you Sunday lunch.

SOUTHERN COMFORT
The wood-fired oven at the Port Cygnet
Cannery churns out sourdough-crusted
pizza a couple of nights a week then turns
up the heat for a degustation lunch using
produce from their own farm on the weekends.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT
DISCOVERTASMANIA.COM.AU
#DISCOVERTASMANIA

Willie Smith’s Apple Shed serves
up cider and history.

Five of a kind

Coconut cream

NAKULA ORGANIC
This thick coconut cream is made
in Thailand from organic coconuts.
Stabilised with guar gum (a natural
thickener extracted from guar beans),
its consistency and rich flavour makes
it perfect for a marinade.
$3.89 for 400ml,
organicdeliverysydney.com.au

The high fat, creamy cousin of coconut milk
is a staple of Thai and Fijian cuisines as well
as vegan desserts. Here are five of the best.

VOURI

FA

TE

TEAM

COCO LÓPEZ
Bartenders love this cream of
coconut, which originally hails from
Puerto Rico and is made from
Caribbean coconuts and cane sugar.
This unique sweetened iteration
is said to be the original cream used
in the famous Piña Colada, creating
that tropical holiday flavour.
$10 for 425ml, pnvmerchants.com

GT

WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

AYAM
Made from 100 per cent coconut
kernels (the meat of the fruit), this
dependable supermarket staple is
best used for finishing curries thanks
to its viscous texture. The flavour is
sweet yet herbaceous, making it ideal
for both sweet and savoury dishes.
$2.90 for 270ml, woolworths.com.au

KARA
This smooth Indonesian coconut
cream has a rounded, buttery flavour
and velvety texture thanks to its
high-fat content. Its vivid white colour
makes it suitable for finishing sauces,
soups and desserts. A pantry staple.
$2.20 for 400ml,
asiangroceronline.com.au

POR KRUA
Buttery, sweet and nutty, this
Thai-made coconut cream is ideal for
desserts due to its porcelain shade
and smooth consistency. Whether it’s
coconut sticky rice or vegan chocolate
mousse, the cream Showcases
a traditional and subtly sweet flavour.
$2.46 for 560ml, jjmarket.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

27

A

QUICK

O R D WI

TH

W

LAUR A
DO N N E L LY
The Northern Irish actor on
roast potatoes, corsets and
Martinis with Hugh Jackman.

Interview HANNAH-ROSE YEE

I grew up in Belfast and I wouldn’t say that the
food was renowned for being spectacular, but my
mum’s a great cook. I still prize my mum’s roast
dinners over any others. More potatoes. When
I first came to England and made a roast dinner
for my partner he was thrilled to discover that
you would have two to three types of potatoes
in a roast, rather than just one. I won’t eat a roast
dinner unless there are at least two types, roast
and mash, and then at Christmas we would often
have three types.
Irish meat and Irish butter are the two things
that I don’t feel like I can get better. In London,
I still go out of my way to make sure that I get Irish
meat and butter. I definitely have a desire that
I am hopefully putting into practice in the next
year or so to get a place over there, probably on
the coast around County Kerry, because it’s just
the most stunningly beautiful part of Ireland.
I was there in the last couple of years in a very
small village. I went into what looked like
a perfectly ordinary café and I had mussels
and Guinness and the mussels suddenly made
me remember why I loved mussels as a kid.
Just come in from the harbour, like an hour
before I was eating them, and I remembered
what they’re supposed to taste like! And it was
just, oh God, spectacular.

28

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Memories

The best holiday I ever had
was a short break to Rome. We
stayed in this incredibly grand
old apartment by the Spanish
Steps. It was just magical.

I live between Primrose Hill and Camden in
London, two very different vibes going on.
You have Camden market and there’s street food
and I love taking my kids there and trying things.
Primrose Hill is cafés and pubs. My favourite meal
of the day is a long breakfast or brunch, because
if I’m on the go or when I’m up with my kids I don’t
tend to eat breakfast. So breakfast represents to
me total indulgence. There’s a café in Primrose
Hill called Greenberry and I love sitting there and
having eggs or shakshuka.
It all depends on what I’m in the mood for, but
some of the best nights at a restaurant have been
at a place called Jones in Hollywood, which does
the best spaghetti meatballs I’ve ever had. It has
a really rock ’n’ roll Hollywood vibe, with red and
white chequered tablecloths, and it’s very darkly
lit. You sit in a booth and your cocktail comes in
its own shaker and you pour it for yourself and
the food is brilliant.

The best holiday I ever had was a short weekend
break to Rome, because it was the first time that
I went away just with my partner after we had
both our children. My youngest was probably
about nine months old and we went away, just
he and I, for my birthday to Rome. We stayed in
this incredibly grand, very, very old apartment in
a place by the Spanish Steps. It was just magical.
I remember the first night we slept for 11 hours
and then I woke up on my birthday and I got to
have a leisurely breakfast in the middle of Rome.
And it was probably the best breakfast that I’ve
ever had – because I could!
Hugh Jackman is the nicest, most hardworking
man and he was lovely to work with [on Broadway,
in The River in 2016]. You just can’t say enough
lovely things about Hugh. He’s just wonderful.
We had some very good nights after the show.
We worked in the Circle in the Square Theatre and
right opposite is The Palm restaurant and at that
time – I think they’ve reduced their sizes since –
they did these buckets of Martinis, and we used
to go in there and have steak and Martinis after
the show, me and Hugh and Cush [Jumbo], the
other actor in the play, and that was our little ritual,
especially on a Sunday. It was always a good night.
Laura Donnelly stars in The Nevers, streaming on Binge,
and Marvel’s Halloween special, streaming in October
on Disney+.

While I was filming [Victorian sci-fi series] The
Nevers, I had a meal plan that was based a lot on
the stunts and fitness required for the role, a lot
of protein and the right carbs and vegetables and
everything else… [Wearing a corset] is not the
most comfortable. You have to really watch your
portion sizes, little and often throughout the day,
is the best thing. Because if you sit down at
lunchtime and just have a big meal then 20
minutes later you are incredibly uncomfortable.
You can get very bad heartburn in a corset.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

29

E
H
T

CH
T
I
K

EN GARD
EN
ER

Watercress
This peppery aquatic plant is tricky to grow but
worth the effort, writes SIMON RICKARD.

W

ILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES.

hen is a nasturtium not a nasturtium? When it’s watercress.
The pretty orange and yellow cottage flowers we know as
“nasturtiums” actually belong to the genus Tropaeolum.
The rightful bearer of the name Nasturtium is watercress,
Nasturtium officinale.
Nasturtium is Latin for “to twist the nose”, hinting at watercress’s
piquant flavour. It’s not as strong as its cousins horseradish, wasabi and
mustard, although it owes its bite to a similar suite of chemicals, shared
by many members of the cabbage family. Watercress has a refreshing,
nutty pungency more akin to another relative, rocket. Couple this with
a very crisp, crunchy texture, and it makes eating watercress a uniquely
delicious experience.
Watercress is an aquatic plant native to Eurasia. It prefers very cold,
clean, running water, particularly when it overlies limestone. Watercress
is a perennial, coming into growth in very early spring as water levels rise
in response to snow melt or spring rains. Its stems are hollow, causing
them to float. Its new growth suddenly pops up above the water surface
prior to flowering. This is the very time to harvest and eat it, as its new
growth is at its most tender and mild. By the time watercress opens its
pretty white flowers, which look just like those of yet another relative,

30

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Grow your own

Simon is a
professional
gardener,
author and
baroque
bassoonist.
@simon_rickard

sweet alyssum, its shoots become a little too
peppery, and lose some of their mouth-watering
crunch. Once the plants have released their seed
in autumn, they retreat below the water again,
to sleep over the winter.
Because of its peculiar natural history,
watercress is challenging to cultivate at home.
It needs full sun, but it does not enjoy heat, so it
can be difficult to keep going over summer in most
Australian conditions. It grows much better in
temperate New Zealand – so well that it has become
a weed of wild waterways. Getting it through
summer is the main challenge. It’s easier to treat
it as an annual, and raise a fresh crop every year.
Seedlings can be raised in punnets in late
winter or early spring. Their pots can be placed
into shallow water once the seedlings reach a few
centimetres tall. The water level can be raised as
the plant grows, until the roots are immersed.
Unfortunately, most potting mixes in this part
of the world are based on composted pine bark,
which tends to ferment when submerged,
rendering the water too acidic and unclean for
watercress’s liking. It’s best to plant it in sand,

or some other inert mineral mix, with some lime
added to mimic the chalk streams in which it
grows wild. Remember, watercress likes to be kept
in water which is crystal clear and bracingly cold,
so the deeper the water is, the better. If you have
a dam or a pond in your garden, by all means try
it there. It will need to be thoroughly washed
before consumption, to remove any waterborne
parasites or impurities.
Watercress will grow on land, and in less-thanideal aquatic conditions, if necessary, but it rarely
achieves its full potential, or its best flavour and
texture profile, under such conditions, rendering
it no more interesting than slightly too-old rocket.
Watercress tends to either languish and die if it’s
not happy, or spread like wildfire and take over your
entire pond if it is. There is no middle ground.
Sound difficult? It is! There are much easier
crops to grow. But watercress is so unique, so
delicious, and such a fleeting spring treat, that you
might decide to give it a try, just for the fun of
getting your nose tweaked by this pernickety plant. 

Remember, watercress
likes to be kept in water
which is crystal clear
and bracingly cold,
so the deeper the
water is, the better.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

31

SUE
FENNESSY
Kylie Kwong celebrates the
individuals helping to grow
a stronger community.
This month, we meet
technology entrepreneur,
WeAre8 founder and CEO
Sue Fennessy.

Sue Fennessy is
a total force for good.
She radiates love
and light wherever
she goes. Sue
walked into Lucky
Kwong a few months
ago and instantly lit
up the whole space
with her mission to make this world
a better place through reimagining social
media. Combined with a beautiful smile
and incredible clarity of mind, Sue’s
energy, life experience and tender heart
continue to have an enormous positive
impact on the community.

32

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

S

ue Fennessy wants to save the world. It’s a pretty
lofty goal and one you might dismiss as fantasy –
until you meet Sue Fennessy. The media and
technology entrepreneur has a proven track record of
thinking big and succeeding. She launched her first business
at the age of 21, eventually selling it to global media company,
Omnicom. She then moved to China to set up a media, sport
and entertainment business (another success) before heading
to New York, where she established the ground-breaking
media data company, Standard Media Index.

WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY WEARE8 (HENNESSY) & MARK POKORNY (KWONG).

But her latest project is, without doubt, her
most ambitious: taking on the technology giant
of the Metaverse (Facebook, Instagram and co) to
launch a social media platform that – she believes
– can change the world and save the planet.
Instead, WeAre8 users are paid to watch ads on
“There was a moment when I saw all of this
the platform. As a user, you can then chose to “pay
money going to Facebook, a hundred billion
it forward” to a charity of your choice, or use the
dollars last year,” she explains. “And seeing it
credit to pay bills via PayPal.
fuelling all this hate and climate misinformation…”
“Essentially for people, they are getting inspired
Fennessy admits to being obsessed with
with eight minutes of content a day…Every time
injustice. “When I see injustice I just have to fight
I watch an ad, I get paid and donations are made
for what’s right.” It’s this compulsion that she says
to charities and it’s where we unite in aid for the
made her question the nature of social media.
planet. Part of that eight minutes is ‘why don’t you
“I became really obsessed with [asking the
do this today?’ A tiny short video on something
question]: ‘How can we reimagine social media?’
you can do today in support of the planet.”
Everyone is becoming more disconnected. There’s
Fennessy quotes David Attenborough when
a mental health crisis, there’s a climate crisis,
she says: “We know the problem, we know the
there’s an economic crisis. When we saw this and
solution, we just need collective action.”
the role social media plays at a systemic level;
“But there’s nowhere to take that collective
keeping us more detached, more remote, more
action and no one’s telling us what to do. So now
judged, we thought ‘there has to be
there is… It’s about waking up to
a better way’. So we’ve invested in
building that.”
“Our bigger mission our unique value and our collective
value to change the world.”
What she has built is WeAre8,
is
to
unite
a
billion
Today, Fennessy is based in
which has already launched in the
United Kingdom and Australia,
people to take small London but the Australian-born
entrepreneur began life in North
and is on its way to the United
actions every day
Dandenong. “Growing up in
States, Canada and Middle East.
in
support
of
those working class suburbs, you
It’s a hate-free social media
the planet.”
see the world through a different
platform, committed to
lens. There are so many people
connecting communities and
now who are under economic pressure. I spent
supporting climate action.
my life thinking ‘how do I escape this?’”
“Our bigger mission is to unite a billion people
That question continues to drive her today and
to take small actions every day in support of the
is part of her motivation for launching WeAre8.
planet. There are two billion people on social but
“Everything I’ve done over 35 years has led
we are more divided than ever…This is about
to this point,” she explains. “Social feeds have
waking up and reclaiming our value from the
become so inhumane and controlled, they’ve
tech giants.”
taken us a long way from love and friends. They
That value, according to Fennessy, is around
are serving us a lot of what they think we want
$400 a year to Facebook. Every time you scroll
to see. The algorithms are built on linger time.
through an ad that you don’t care about or don’t
“Ours is built to liberate you and help you
want to see, Facebook makes money from you.
discover things you love, people you love. If you
want to watch ads, you do it on your terms and
every time you do, you change the world.” 
For more details visit weare8.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

33

McLaren Vale
SO UT H AU ST R ALI A
Sun-soaked, sea-swept McLaren Vale offers the perfect environment
for exciting Mediterranean drops, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.

M

Samantha is
a sommelier,
writer and wine
consultant.
@sl_payne
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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

cLaren Vale is a tale of innovation
and tradition, coexisting in one
region, both in legacy brands
such as Oliver’s Taranga and
the newer, avant-garde producers like Alpha
Box & Dice. “Traditional Rhône styles and
Mediterranean varieties can coexist here,”
explains Alpha’s winemaker Sam Berketa. “I can
see both sides of the argument on what works
best in the region. Grenache from old, heritage
bush vines is (by volume) most of the red
we make, but I’m most passionate about the
Mediterranean varieties like nero d’avola
and sangiovese.”
You can see this passion in how Berketa jumps
from one barrel to the next in the winery,

enthusiastically talking about this red grape ferment
or how the extensive skin contact on one of his
white wine experiments is shaping up beautifully.
The excitement is contagious and leads you to look
deeper into the wines, when you might have initially
just chalked them up to a tasty drop with a cool and
colourful label. It’s rare to see a new winemaker in
the Australian wine scene balance talent with such
humility and grace.
The vineyards in McLaren Vale have always
captured the inspiration and imagination of wine
lovers. This intersection of sunshine, sea and sand
(sand-based soils) is what makes McLaren Vale so
unique. “Working with Mediterranean grapes in
this region accentuates the life of the grapes; we
see the seaside influence and sunshine and how

Wine country

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McLaren Vale

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OF MCLAREN
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VA

Moana

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Onkaparinga River
National Park

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

Willunga

the fruit responds to it,” says Berketa. “McLaren Vale gets
generous flavours from the sunshine – and we think we’ve
got a handle on that now as a region, to not over-extract or
let things get too ripe – and that’s reflected in the wines
being produced.”
Someone with the history of McLaren Vale in her
blood is Corrina Wright, director and sixth-generation
winemaker for Oliver’s Taranga. Not only does she have
the family archives as reference but she also has first-hand
knowledge of the McLaren Vale’s wine journey. She agrees
that McLaren’s bi-coastal vibe plays a considerable part in
the styles of wines produced not just through new varieties
but through the classics like grenache. Wright explains:
“There’s been a big progression with grenache from being
hard to grow and just using it in blends to how it is now
with super intense concentration, unashamedly mediumbodied world-class wines.”
As Wright sees it, each generation is represented in the
the family’s current wine offering. The spirit of innovation
started with the first generation, which set up the farm and
the second, which sold the fruit. Subsequent generations
were the first to plant chardonnay in the area (which
Wright looks back at as being hilarious now), while the
current generation was the first in Australia to make wine
out of the Spanish grape mencia.
This unification of history and advancement of both
winemaking techniques, the grapes planted and newer
producers joining the multi-generational ones make
McLaren Vale a unique breeding ground for new ideas in
the Australian wine industry. As Berketa says: “There’s
a progressiveness in McLaren Vale, a willingness to
embrace new ideas, which makes the region one of the
most exciting in Australia.” 

The Kaurna are the traditional custodians and original
people of Adelaide and Adelaide Plains, over a vast
area, which includes McLaren Vale. The Kaurna spoke
a complex language reflecting a deep knowledge of
the environment and intricate culture and systems.
Kaurna was believed to be derived from the term for
man or people in the language of their southern
neighbours, the Ramindjeri and Ngarrindjeri.

2022 Bondar Fiano, $35
Lemon pith, waxy white florals and hints of sea
spray in the glass scream to be paired with prawns
or kingfish ceviche. Using a ceramic egg to ferment
the grapes is a stroke of genius that builds texture
and fleshes out the mid-palate. Keep this crowdpleaser for entertaining in the warmer months.
bondarwines.com.au
2021 Brash Higgins CHN Chenin Blanc, $39
This chenin blanc from 31-year-old vines in Blewitt
Springs is a beautiful example of how textural
whites can thrive. Lemonade fruit and water
chestnuts combine with jasmine and honeydew
melon to create a heady perfume tempered by licks
of saline oyster shell minerality on the palate.
brashhiggins.com
2021 Alpha Box & Dice Siren Nero d’Avola, $36
This nero captures the true essence of McLaren
Vale by deft winemaker Sam Berketa. Flavours of
dark cherry and balsamic strawberries intertwine
with black olive tapenade and rich dark earth.
The ultimate Friday night pizza wine.
alphaboxdice.com
2021 Oliver’s Taranga RW Grenache, $75
Winemaker Corrina Wright calls 2021 “one of the
greatest vintages in McLaren Vale’s history”. With
this in mind, the second release of a premium
grenache from Oliver’s Taranga (named for Wright’s
great-grandfather RW Oliver), is spectacular. Nettle
and earthy forest-floor notes creep up on the palate
under vibrant red fruits. Perfect with porchetta.
oliverstaranga.com
2019 Bekkers McLaren Vale Syrah, $120
A sophisticated example of Australian Shiraz,
complex fruit layers of blackcurrant and mulberry
are entwined with star anise, vanilla and a hint of
a savoury meatiness. Seamless tannins show
longevity to this wine that would make an excellent
addition to anyone’s cellar.
bekkerswine.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

35

Cocktail hour

LYC HE E M ARTI NI

T

ime has not been kind to the Lychee
Martini. Once the height of cosmopolitan
sophistication, the cocktail now serves
more as a cringeworthy reminder of the
“Asian fusion” craze that swept through bars and
restaurants at the turn of the 21st century.
Yet, unlike so many other fluorescently coloured,
synthetically flavoured “’tinis” from that time, the
Lychee Martini still holds something of a special
place in the hearts of many drinkers.
“There will always be a small corner in any
cocktail city that yearns for the ’90s classic,” says
Josh Reynolds, group bar director for The Point
Group in Sydney.
At Shell House, The Point’s ritzy, art deco-era
mega-venue in the CBD, Reynolds flips the script
on the often maligned cocktail by reimagining it as
a Spritz. Swapping vodka for gin adds palate weight,
and the use of top-shelf peach and bergamot liqueurs
evens out the sweetness of the principal fruit.
“Lychee lends itself to so many other nuances in
terms of taste, and this cocktail really makes it shine,”
he says. “It’s floral, tart, exotic, textural and aromatic
– a perfect fit.”

Shell House’s Lychee Club

EE GINS

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T
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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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RY

3

TO

For weekly cocktail
inspiration, follow
us on Instagram
@gourmettraveller

Four Pillars Fresh
Yuzu Gin
Yarra Valley yuzu
headlines this fragrant
new release, backed
by finger lime, lemon
myrtle, ginger, turmeric
and genmaicha tea.
$80 for 700ml
fourpillarsgin.com

Plymouth Gin
A longstanding
standard bearer in
the classic gin stakes,
Plymouth is a trusty
addition to cocktails for
its balance of flavour
and oily mouthfeel.
$72.99 for 700ml
shortysliquor.com.au

Roku Gin
Given the hefty
botanical bill – 14 in all,
including sakura flowers
and sansho pepper –
it’s little wonder this
Japanese favourite is
so layered and lengthy.
$69.95 for 700ml
danmurphys.com.au

WORDS MATTY HIRSCH. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING EMMALY STEWART.

To make lychee syrup, strain liquid from a tin of lychees, weigh it,
then add an equal weight of caster sugar and stir to dissolve. In a large
wine glass, combine 10ml gin, 10ml Rinquinquin à la Pêche (see note),
3⁄4 tsp Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto (see note), 12.5ml lychee syrup,
15ml freshly squeezed lemon juice, 8 drops rosewater and 60ml prosecco.
Top with ice, stir gently to combine and garnish with a lychee and
strawberry slices on a cocktail skewer.
Note Rinquinquin à la Pêche and Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto are popular
peach and bergamot liqueurs, respectively, available at select bottle shops.

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H A R V E Y N O R M A N FRIDGE GUIDE 2022

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HARVEY NORMAN FRIDGE GUIDE 2022

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USE PANTRY MODE TO
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Sometimes cold is too cold
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grains and cereals. Pantry mode
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For more information on energy ratings and electricity saving tips, visit www.energyrating.gov.au or www.energy.gov.au

SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE
HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278
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OCTOBER

EVERYDAY

From weeknight suppers to simple entertaining, these
everyday recipes keep things fresh, fast and simple.

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN FREE

DAIRY FREE

Photography JAMES MOFFATT Styling STEVE PEARCE
Recipes LUCY BUSUTTIL Food preparation JESSICA BROOK

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

51

Everyday

Baby heirloom beetroot with white bean purée
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 40 MINS

125
2
½
2
3
400
60

1
1
½

ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
tbsp aged red wine vinegar
tsp caster sugar
bunches (10 individual) mixed baby
heirloom beetroot, trimmed
thyme sprigs
gm can cannellini beans, drained and
rinsed
gm pecorino, finely grated, plus extra
to serve
Finely grated zest and juice of
1 lemon
burrata (200gm), drained, torn
yellow grapefruit, segmented
cup each (loosely packed) baby
watercress and mint leaves
Toastedchopped almonds and
seeded lavosh to serve

1 Preheat oven to 180˚C fan-forced. For
dressing, combine oil, vinegar and sugar
in a small bowl, season and set aside.
2 Place beetroot and thyme in the
middle of a piece of foil, drizzle with
2 tbsp dressing and 1 tbsp water, then
encase beetroot in foil. Place on an oven
tray and roast until cooked (40 minutes).
Stand covered for 10 minutes; peel and
discard skin, halve larger beetroot, then
add to a large bowl with remaining
dressing. Season and toss to coat.
3 Meanwhile, for bean purée, blend
beans, pecorino, lemon zest and juice
and 60ml water in a blender until very
smooth; season to taste.

4 To serve, spread bean purée over
a large platter, top with beetroot, burrata,
grapefruit, watercress, mint and almonds
with lavosh on the side.

WINE PAIRING
Make the most of the longer
days and enjoy this alfresco
with a perfectly chilled glass
of Côtes de Provence rosé.

Skillet spanakopita
SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS STANDING)

80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
4 bulbous spring onions (salad onions),
thinly sliced, white and green parts
separated
1 bunch silverbeet (550gm), stalks
removed, leaves coarsely shredded
100 gm unsalted butter, melted
8 sheets filo pastry
300 gm soft goat’s cheese, crumbled
300 gm fresh ricotta, drained, crumbled
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup (loosely packed) dill,
finely chopped,
1 tsp nigella seeds
200 gm sugarsnap peas, trimmed,
blanched
100 gm podded fresh peas, blanched
1 tbsp white balsamic
Snow pea tendrils, to serve

1 Preheat oven to 200˚C fan-forced.
Heat half of the oil in a 22cm-diameter
ovenproof frying pan or skillet over
high heat. Add green part of spring
onion and silverbeet and cook, stirring
frequently, until wilted (3 minutes).
Drain and stand in colander until cooled
completely, then transfer to a bowl.
2 Wipe out pan and brush with butter.
When pan is cool enough to handle,
brush 1 sheet of filo and lay vertically in
pan, allowing excess to overhang. Butter
another sheet and lay it over first sheet
horizontally, in a cross pattern, carefully
pushing into pan. Repeat with remaining
sheets, overlapping each sheet.
3 Add cheeses, egg and dill to spinach
mixture, season to taste and stir to
combine. Spoon mixture into filo-lined

pan. Fold overhanging filo around edge
of pan to create a ruffled 6cm border,
brush with butter and scatter over nigella
seeds. Bake until the centre is firm, and
filo is golden and crisp (30 minutes);
stand for 10 minutes before serving.
4 To serve, place sugarsnaps, peas,
remaining spring onions, balsamic and
remaining oil in a bowl, season to taste
and toss to combine. Scatter snow pea
tendrils over spanakopita. Serve with
pea salad on the side. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

53

Everyday

Harissa-roasted lamb rump
with pomegranate and eggplant
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

USE IT UP
If you have leftover lamb and
eggplant, wrap in pita bread
and add tahini yoghurt,
tabbouleh and fresh herbs for
a delicious lunch or light dinner.

54

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

2 tbsp harissa paste
80 ml (1⁄3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling
4 lamb rump (300gm each), trimmed,
cap off
210 gm (¾ cup) thick Greek-style yoghurt
70 gm (¼ cup) hulled tahini
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large eggplant (500gm), cut into 2cm
pieces
185 gm (½ cup) pomegranate molasses,
plus extra for drizzling
2½ tbsp Sherry vinegar
1 tbsp honey
400 gm can chickpeas, drained
and rinsed
200 gm small heirloom tomatoes,
chopped
¼ cup each (loosely packed) flat-leaf
parsley, mint and coriander leaves,
coarsely chopped
1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Combine
harissa and olive oil in a large bowl.
Add lamb, season to taste and turn to
coat; stand at room temperature until
ready to cook.

2 Meanwhile, for tahini sauce, place
yoghurt, tahini, juice, 2 tbsp oil and
garlic in a small food processor, season
to taste and blend until smooth.
3 Heat a large ovenproof frying pan over
high heat. Cook lamb skin-side down
until browned (5 minutes). Turn and
brown lamb on all sides (1-2 minutes).
Transfer to an oven tray, and roast for
15-20 minutes for medium or until
cooked to your liking; rest 10 minutes,
loosely covered with foil before slicing.
4 Wipe out frying pan and heat over
medium-high heat. Heat remaining oil
and fry eggplant, stirring occasionally,
until browned and tender (5 minutes).
Transfer eggplant with a slotted spoon
to a plate lined with paper towel. Add
pomegranate molasses, vinegar, and
honey to frying pan; boil until thickened
(2 minutes). Return eggplant and toss to
coat. Gently stir in chickpeas, tomatoes
and herbs.
5 To serve, divide tahini sauce among
plates and top with eggplant mixture
and sliced lamb; drizzle with extra
pomegranate molasses and olive oil.

Vongole, zucchini
blossom and brown
butter spaghetti
SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

1 small sourdough baguette, halved
lengthways
50 gm ’nduja (see note)
250 gm fresh spaghetti
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
75 gm unsalted butter
12 zucchini flowers (with small zucchini
attached) halved lengthways
2 tbsp baby capers
125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
750 gm vongole or pipis, purged
½ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
1 Preheat the oven grill to high. Spread
baguette with ’nduja and drizzle with oil.
Place on an oven tray; cook under grill
until golden and toasted (3 minutes).
Set aside and keep warm.
2 Bring a large saucepan of salted
water to the boil. Cook spaghetti until
al dente (4-6 minutes). Drain, reserving
60ml pasta water.
3 Meanwhile, heat a large deep frying
pan with a tight-fitting lid over high heat.
Add butter and cook, swirling pan until
foaming and beginning to brown
(3 minutes). Add zucchini flowers and
capers, cook until tender (2-3 minutes).
Remove with a slotted spoon and set
aside. Deglaze pan with wine and reduce
by half (1 minute). Add vongole, cover,
and steam, shaking pan occasionally,
until vogole open (5 minutes).
4 Add spaghetti, zucchini flowers, and
caper mix, and reserved pasta water
and lemon juice to vongole. Season and
toss to combine. Divide between bowls,
scatter over parsley and serve with
’nduja baguette.
Note ’Nduja is a spreadable salami
available from select butchers and
Italian smallgoods producers. ➤

Everyday

Cambodian lort cha
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS
(PLUS MARINATING)

2½ tbsp each oyster sauce and dark soy
sauce
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp caster sugar
1 pork tenderloin (about 450gm),
halved lengthways, thinly sliced
2 tsp cornflour
125 ml (1⁄3 cup) peanut oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tbsp finely grated ginger
500 gm fresh wide rice noodles, at room
temperature for best results
1 bunch (11⁄2 cups loosely packed)
garlic shoots, cut into 6cm lengths
1 bunch gai lan, stalks cut into 6cm
lengths (thicker stalks halved
lengthways), leaves shredded
Fried eggs, bean sprouts, lime halves
and crisp chilli oil, to serve

1 For sauce, combine sauces and
sugar in a small bowl and set aside.
2 Place pork, cornflour and 60ml of
the sauce mixture in a bowl, stir to
coat and marinate for 15 minutes.
3 In two batches, heat 1 tbsp oil in
a large wok or large deep non-stick
frying pan to high heat. Add half of the
garlic, ginger and pork and in two batches
stir-fry until pork is just cooked through
and lightly charred, transfer to a plate.
Return wok to high heat, add 1 tbsp oil,
half of the noodles and stir-fry until
soft and slightly charred (2-3 minutes),
transfer to plate with pork.
4 Wipe wok clean and return to high
heat. Add remaining oil with garlic
shoots and gai lan and stir-fry until
wilted (1-2 minutes). Return pork,
noodles, remaining sauce mixture
and 2 tbsp water to wok, stir-fry until
heated through (1-2 minutes).
5 Divide among bowls, top with fried
egg and serve with bean sprouts, lime
halves, and chilli oil on the side.

Barbecued hanger steak with cacio e pepe mushrooms
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS RESTING)

150 gm unsalted butter, softened
½ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped
40 gm (½ cup) finely grated pecorino
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
2 tsp mixed whole peppercorns,
coarsely crushed, plus extra, to serve
500 gm hanger or flat-iron steak,
trimmed, at room temperature
800 gm mixed mushrooms, such as king
brown, Swiss or button, trimmed
⅓ cup (loosely packed) sage leaves
BABY COS SALAD

80 ml (1⁄3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra for drizzling
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
200 gm baby cos, leaves separated
1 cup (loosely packed) mixed baby
herbs, such as chervil, tarragon,
parsley, coarsely chopped

1 Place butter, parsley, pecorino, garlic,
3 tsp lemon juice, zest, and pepper in
a bowl and stir to combine. Set aside
at room temperature.
2 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
or char-grill pan to high. Place steak in
a large bowl, season and drizzle with
oil to coat. Barbecue steak, turning
occasionally until lightly charred all
over (6-8 minutes for medium rare)
or until cooked to your liking; rest for
10 minutes before slicing.
3 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan
over medium-high heat. Add 2 tbsp of
the flavoured butter with mushrooms
and sage, cook, tossing occasionally,
until mushrooms begin to brown (2-3
minutes). Add another 2 tbsp butter with
2 tbsp water; cook for a further 2 minutes.
Take off heat, season to taste and stir
in 1 tbsp lemon juice; keep warm until
ready to serve.

4 For salad, place oil in a large bowl
with mustard and remaining lemon juice,
season to taste and whisk to combine.
Add cos and herbs and toss to combine;
transfer to a serving bowl.
5 To serve, thickly slice steak and
place on a large platter and spoon over
cacio e pepe mushrooms. Serve with
remaining butter and salad on the side. ➤

COOKING TIP
To create good caramelisation
on the steak, ensure your
barbecue or char-grill pan is
preheated well before cooking.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

57

Everyday

Burnt honey panna cotta
with chamomile strawberries
MAKES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, SETTING)

180
500
250
3

gm (1⁄2 cups) honey
ml (2 cups) thickened cream
ml (1 cup) milk
sheets (15gm) titanium-strength
gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water
for 5 minutes
2½ tbsp dried organic chamomile flowers
1 cinnamon quill
Micro lemon balm, to serve
CHAMOMILE STRAWBERRIES

200 gm strawberries, hulled, quartered
90 gm (¼ cup) honey
2 tbsp dried organic chamomile flowers
1 Lightly grease six 180ml dariole moulds
or ramekins. Heat honey in a saucepan
over medium heat until a dark caramel
(6-8 minutes); carefully add 2 tbsp water
and swirl pan to combine. Pour 2 tsp
burnt honey into each mould.
2 For panna cotta, add cream and milk
to remaining burnt honey and place over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring
frequently, until combined (2 minutes);

do not boil. Squeeze water from gelatine
and add to cream mixture with chamomile
and cinnamon; stir gently to combine
and gelatine has dissolved. Transfer to
a shallow bowl and stand 10 minutes
for flavours to develop. Strain through
a sieve and divide among prepared
moulds. Place on a tray and refrigerate
until set (4-5 hours).
3 For chamomile strawberries, place
strawberries in a heatproof bowl. Place
honey, chamomile, zest and 60ml water
in a small saucepan over medium-high
heat and bring to the boil, reduce heat
to low and simmer until slightly thickened
(2-3 minutes); remove from heat and cool
slightly. Strain syrup over strawberries,
set aside for 15 minutes.
4 To serve, carefully invert panna cotta
onto serving plates, serve with chamomile
strawberries and scatter with micro
lemon balm. 

We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and seafood from Notaras Fish Markets
in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.

SERVING SUGGESTION
If you don’t have suitable
moulds, set panna cotta in
small glasses and serve topped
with strawberries.

* www.fao.org/3/i3437e/i3437e.pdf

Mozzarella
These little balls of creamy goodness
bring bursts of flavour to everything from
sourdough toast to insalata Caprese.

Masterclass

I

RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE. WAVE COUPE GLASSES FROM FAZEEK.

n Italy the name mozzarella is only applied
when buffalo milk is used to make the cheese
(mozzarella di bufala); when cow’s milk is
used, it is known as fior di latte. Most of the
equipment used here needs to be sterilised and
prepared before starting the recipe.

1

Mozzarella tips
Rennet is an enzyme that causes milk to coagulate, separating
curds from whey. Vegetable rennet tablets are available from
specialist food shops and cheese-making shops. Citric acid,
used to acidify milk, is available from the baking section of most
supermarkets. Mozzarella will keep refrigerated for up to 5 days.

5

6

Step by step

1

Place 3 litres organic pasteurised,
unhomogenised milk in a large
saucepan fitted with a cooking
thermometer over low heat. Place 140ml
cooled, boiled water and 1½ tsp citric
acid in a jug; stir until acid dissolves.
Stir citric acid mixture into milk with
a large metal spoon; continue to stir
for 1 minute. (At this stage the mixture
will look slightly curdled.) Slowly heat
milk mixture to 40°C on thermometer.

2

Meanwhile, crush and combine
half a tablet of vegetarian rennet
with 1 tbsp cooled, boiled water (see tips)
in a sterilised jug. When milk reaches
40°C, turn off heat and stir in the rennet
mixture; continue to stir for 2 minutes
or until rennet is well combined and
curds have split. Remove thermometer.
Cover saucepan with a lid and stand
for 35 minutes.

3

Return pan to a low heat and
reheat mixture to 40°C, gently
stirring continuously. Line a colander
with muslin and place over a bowl.
Using a sterilised slotted spoon, transfer
curds to lined colander and set aside
to drain for 10 minutes.

4

Meanwhile, pour 500ml water
in a large saucepan and bring to
80°C. Combine cold water (enough to
cover mozzarella balls) and 1 tbsp fine
cooking salt in a large bowl and place
on work bench near stovetop. Wearing
gloves, divide drained curds into four.

6

Once curds are melted and pliable,
stretch strands with your hands
(take care as curds are hot); fold curds
back onto themselves and repeat
stretching and folding a further five
times, before shaping into a ball. Add
mozzarella ball to salted water and repeat
with remaining curd portions. Refrigerate,
covered in salted water. Makes four
80gm balls or eight 40gm balls. Drain
balls and serve with sourdough toast
and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. 

5

Place one portion of curds on
a mesh spoon and lower into
saucepan of hot water for 1 minute
keeping it on spoon. After a minute
check if curds have started to melt. You
may need to submerge curds a few more
times before they are ready to stretch.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

61

CONFESSIONS OF A

R E STAU R A N T
CRITIC
We adore restaurants here at Gourmet Traveller. But even the
strongest relationships need a little fine-tuning every now and then.
Here, respectfully, are some of our thoughts.

ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE STOCK.

S

ay a prayer, if you will, for the long-suffering
restaurant critic. Martyrs that we are, we munch
snacks, dig through dégustations and bump caviar
– day in, night out – to curate and compile the
country’s best eating guide. We do all this so you know
exactly where to spend your dining dollars – and where not
to. The only thing that works harder than us are our arteries.
We’re kidding, of course. We love our jobs and we know
how lucky we are. Without exception, everyone who reviews
for Gourmet Traveller still gets a little shiver of excitement
each time we lay a napkin on our laps, whether we’re visiting
a restaurant for the first time or the fifteenth. Eating for
a living is an enormous privilege – and great fun – and we
relish every second.
But we also take it very seriously. Our duty is two-fold.
Partly, our role is to champion the industry. That’s been
particularly important in the last few years, because
restaurants have been torpedoed and tornado’d and
tsnami’d on all sides: pandemics, staff shortages, rent
hikes, rising food costs. It is not, by any stretch of the
imagination, an easy time to work in or run a restaurant
and if we don’t look after the industry, there will be
nothing left to review.
Above all, our job is to service you – our reader.
Gourmet Traveller exists to guide and advise you. For more
than 40 years, since our Restaurant Awards began, our
readers have put their trust in us to seek out and champion
the best dining experiences in Australia. Whenever any
of us dine out, you are there in our minds, as we ask:
“Would a GT reader appreciate this?”
With that in mind, the GT team has put their heads
together and compiled a list of recurring complaints that
have popped up this year during our eating adventures.
Things that need imagination and ingenuity to fix, rather
than money or manpower. They’re not dealbreakers – or
mealbreakers – but can be the difference between a place in
our annual Restaurant Guide or just missing out. One thing
Australia is certainly not short of is excellent restaurants.
As for diners? We’ve put together a few thoughts on
how we can all be better patrons.
Cue the opening strains to We’re All In This Together.
Eat well, and eat out often.

Fit-out fails
Sometimes, eating out feels like you’ve stepped into
the pages of Alice in Wonderland. The plates are
as big as beach balls, while the tables are as tiny
as watch faces! The stools are so tall that it’s like
you’re perched on top of a psychedelic mushroom
while your handbag vanishes thousands of miles
away on the floor, far beyond your reach. We do, of
course, understand that the pressures of geometry
and economics are at play here: more bodies into
less square footage equals more revenue. But
mashed-in elbows, chair-leg crunched handbags
and extra tables needing to be rammed alongside to
accommodate oversized share plates will inevitably
result in fewer bodies returning to your particular bit
of square footage. You do the maths. ➤

Whenever any of us dine out,
you are there in our minds,
as we ask: “Would a GT
reader appreciate this?”

Tired trends
It’s a fine line between classic and cliché – and
the more certain dishes and ingredients appear
on menus across the country, the more tired they
feel. This year’s key offenders? Kingdfish crudo/
carpaccio/ceviche, burrata (and increasingly
stracciatella), ’nduja, cacio e pepe, yuzu and matcha
everything, and desserts that are nothing more
than a quenelle of something with some crumbs
and gel. All good things in moderation but they
seem to be everywhere, all the time.

Skimpy snacks

Dodgy drink situations

Snacks – creamy stuff piped onto shokupan, fried
things dusted in brunoised chives – are a tasty
and terrific way to start a meal and we never want
to see the back of them. But their portioning can
be frustrating. If you’re in a group of four and the
snackage is served in a trio, someone misses out.
Single portion snacks can also be miserly; order
two or three rounds of four and suddenly your
snacks cost as much as a pricey main course.
Don’t make us feel smacked down by snacks.
Price and portion them generously, and flex
them according to the party size.

One eagle-eyed GT reviewer is regularly frustrated
by underpours. “Everyone knows a proper pour
should be 150ml, yet I often get 120ml.” Another
takes grave exception to sommeliers who exceed
a fixed price ceiling, upselling without consent.
“If I overspent my budget by 20 per cent at work,
I’d get the sack,” she points out. Oh, and chill.
The wine that is. If it’s meant to be chilled, of
course. Warm wine: not fine.

Bleugh bathrooms
Obviously our Restaurant of the Year, Restaurant
Botanic in Adelaide, won the top gong for its
food, service and atmosphere. But allow us, for
one moment, to transport you to its spectacular
bathrooms. They bloom with buds and foliage.
There are piles of soft towels and Hunter Lab
toiletries. They swell with the tittering of birdsong.
They’re magnificent. We don’t expect this sort
of day spa-level luxury everywhere but a good
bathroom is not hard to achieve. Cleanliness, some
lovely soap, fresh towels and plentiful toilet paper
are the bare minimum, folks. Requiring people
to leave the premises for a bathroom break is
also not ideal.

HOW TO BE A BETTER DINER
Because happy restaurants are a two-way street
Turn up on time
You wouldn’t turn up late for a friend’s dinner party.
Show your restaurant the same courtesy. They have
timings to stick to and schedules to keep.

Declare your dietaries early
Almost everywhere asks about food allergies at booking to
allow the restaurant to prepare. Don’t spring it on them
as you sit down and expect to be fully catered for.

Leave on time
See above. You wouldn’t linger past your friend’s bedtime
in their home. Beyond a certain time – often around 90
minutes or two hours – the restaurant needs your table
for someone else. Be respectful.

Table manners
We’re not going to lecture you about being polite, patient
or respectful. We know you know that. When it comes
down to it, restaurant-ing – whether you’re making,
serving or eating the food – is about being good people.

Odd add-ons
Everyone knows that accessories make an outfit.
The same probably shouldn’t be said for food.
When a menu offers dishes with an optional scoop
of caviar or shaving of truffle, many of our reviewers
have been left feeling irked. Either we plump for
the upgrade and feel like we’re forking out for
something that isn’t adding a lot to the dish, or we
leave it out and worry we’re eating something that’s
a bit naked without the bolt-on extra. Just make the
dish with whatever it’s meant to be made with and
we’ll all go home fat and happy.

C-grade cutlery and crockery
This one’s tricky, because we realise that
crockery and cutlery are expensive items that get
banged around a lot in a busy kitchen. But a little
thoughtfulness on the crockery and cutlery front is
always appreciated. It doesn’t need to be 100 per
cent handmade or gold-dipped. But if you’re serving
beautiful produce then the servingware needs
to be a cut above Kmart. 

CANCEL CULTURE
We’re sure you’ve noticed that many restaurants have begun
introducing stricter-than-ever cancellation and no-show
penalties in recent years. Some take money from your credit
card at the time of booking, others will charge a specified
amount if you don’t turn up or cancel within a certain time
frame, usually 24 or 48 hours.
There’s a very good reason for this. Like any business,
restaurants need to accurately budget and allocate their
resources: food and staff. Get the ratios wrong, and they’re
left out of pocket, decimating their already slim margins.
A lot has been made of these fees: are they fair, are they
reasonable, are they evenly weighted to take care of the
competing needs of both the diner and the restaurants?
Here’s our take.
Every Gourmet Traveller reviewer has had to cancel
a reservation on occasion. And sometimes we’ve had to
cop the cash hit if we’ve pulled out before the stated cut-off.
But more often than not, if we’ve rung or emailed the
restaurant and explained things, we’ve worked something
out. Sometimes fees have been reduced, or we’ve found
a way to reschedule our visit, or they’ve kindly waived the
cost. Not always, but the key is to remember that everyone
in this transaction is a human. And when we all treat each
other like humans, we can generally come to a détente.
It’s called hospitality for a reason.
Restaurants aren’t out to get anyone. From our experience,
if you’re polite and transparent, they’ll do their best to come
to an arrangement where everyone’s happy.
But it’s a two-way street. Don’t take advantage. Try your
best to stick to your end of the bargain unless you really have
a serious reason to pull out. As Smith & Daughters’
Shannon Martinez recently told GT, “I think a lot of people
have twigged on to the fact that you can cancel and use the
Covid excuse and not get charged.” Don’t be that person.
Because, as Martinez says, too many last-minute cancellations
could be the difference between restaurants closing or “just
hanging on”.

Exploring together, working together. Although from very different
backgrounds, these industry luminaries share many wonderful traits: talent,
passion, respect and a great love for that no-waste, forever-giving, magical
beast known as - The Pig. Masters of their crafts, they know full well, the
endless delicious possibilities it provides. They are PorkStars.

porkstar.com.au

Pictured (L-R): Mick Nunn - Charcutier, Judy Croagh - Farmer, Adrian Richardson - Chef, Annie Smithers - Chef, Ross Magnaye - Chef.

A
D

X

LI

RD

EN

E
AIN
SP

sA

HA

I
AT

Wo
rd

EL

K

PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN VAN DER KNAAP (BLUEFIN TUNA, CHARCOAL ROASTED EGGPLANT,
FERMENTED NATIVE THYME & HORSERADISH AT RESTAURANT BOTANIC).

,

E L LY, M I C H A

&

V

IS

FI

A
ON

NN
DO

It’s time to raise a glass as we present the winners of
the 2023 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards.
Here, we celebrate the very best in Australian dining.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

69

SA
Restaurant Botanic,
Adelaide

Margaret, Sydney

Qld

Clockwise from
left: Essa’s bar;
kohlrabi at Essa;
the dining room
at Margaret;
potato and caviar
at Restaurant
Botanic.

Essa, Brisbane

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

State Winners
As this year’s state winners, these seven
restaurants became the finalists for our
2023 Restaurant of the Year award.

PHOTOGRAPHY BROCK BEAZLEY (ESSA), ALANA LANDSBERRY (MARGARET) & JONATHAN VAN DER KNAAP (BOTANIC).

NSW

Vic
Tedesca Osteria, Red Hill

WA
Lulu La Delizia, Perth

ACT

PHOTOGRAPHY LAJOS VARGA (LULU) & LEAN TIMMS (PILOT).

Pilot, Canberra

Tas
Fico, Hobart

Clockwise from
left: umami
mackerel at Pilot;
Pilot’s co-owners
Ross McQuinn
and Dash Rumble;
spaghettini with
Coffin Bay
vongole at Lulu
La Delizia; the
dining room at
Tedesca Osteria;
Southern
calamari, beurre
blanc, Portuguese
cabbage and
watermelon
radishes at Fico.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

71

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

Restaurant Botanic
Adelaide, SA

Clockwise from left:
red love apple, juniper,
buttermilk, riberries and
muntries at Restaurant
Botanic; the restaurant’s
exterior. Opposite: the
chef counter.

PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN VAN DER KNAAP.

D

égustation restaurants are by nature
expensive, time-consuming and, with
so many moving parts (multiple courses,
drink pairings, ingredients, interactions),
an accident waiting to happen. They’re as much an
exercise in logistics as cooking and, if not careful,
a chef can forget that. Alongside being a showcase
for their own brilliance, dégustation dining must also
be fun and flavoursome.
Justin James, the former Vue de Monde head chef
who took the reins at Adelaide’s Restaurant Botanic in
2021, doesn’t forget. His 20-something “course” menu
(many of the courses being single-bite) brings new life
to the puffed old trope of restaurant meal as journey
in a way that makes dining here feel more adventure,
less forced march.
The key is unity of vision. Botanic is in the middle
of Adelaide’s rightly adored Botanic Garden and
James has been given full access to that bounty.
This means there are plenty of native plants involved
– hot towels are scented with anise myrtle, Murray
cod is wrapped in paperbark, Davidson plum lands
as sorbet wrapped in fruit leather with lemon balm
– but the garden also provides plants from far-flung
locales so you get makrut leaves teamed with baby
abalone or marron claw matched with shisho leaf.
Like the beautiful mix of natural chaos and
imposed order in the surrounding gardens, James
never succumbs to attempting perfection on the plate.
He embraces the beauty of irregularity. Garnishes are
not always uniformly shaped, skewers are twisted
sticks, plates land surrounded by pine branches and
snacks are hidden in loosely tied bunches of foliage.

At times it feels a little mysterious and witchy, in the
best possible way.
The room shies away from being too poised and
perfect too, all undressed tables and windows free
of drapery to take full advantage of the garden view.
It’s comfortable and relaxed, the atmosphere assisted
by a soundtrack that swings from classic soul to Pink
Floyd to REM. Service follows the template too, never
missing a beat but always happy to go off script and
chat, so that you might feel like you’ve made a new
friend by the end of the four-hour relationship.
Gorgeous moments of luxury – a slowly
scrambled emu egg served in the shell, thrillingly
brilliant roasted and honey-glazed duck, sublime
oysters topped with green ants – balance the rusticity
and the skill level of the cooking never wavers.
Botanic is a bravura performance, worthy of
sustained applause. We’re happy to lead the ovation.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

73

CHEF OF THE YEAR

Thi Le
Ca Com & Jeow, Melbourne, Vic

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

only became one of Melbourne lockdown’s greatest
hits but begat a permanent bánh mì shop, Ca Com,
where the concept of what a bánh mì in Melbourne
can be was pushed and expanded with startlingly
good results. It also sparked vital conversation
around why this Vietnamese classic is expected
to be ridiculously cheap, regardless of the labour
and quality of the ingredients involved.
Highlighting Le’s work ethic and constantly
engaged approach, the former Anchovy space is
now a Laotian restaurant called Jeow, with
a menu of spicy funky salads, curries and stews.
Again, it’s inspired by Le’s childhood experiences of
eating in suburban Laotian restaurants. Again, it
brings her particularly balanced, nuanced approach
that inevitably results in thrilling flavours. It’s there for
now but there’s more to come too. It always does with
a chef of this calibre. We can’t wait.

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

Y

ou don’t need to take our word that Thi Le
is one of the most interesting chefs working
in Australia right now – it’s a view shared by
chefs across Australia who participated in our
peer-voted Chef of the Year Award.
Le is acknowledged as a highly talented and
sharp-minded chef with an excellent and adventurous
palate, but also as an original thinker with a holistic
approach to the industry; someone not afraid to
change things and who understands that mental and
emotional well-being are vital to a successful business.
The recent decision to close (or, at least, put into
storage) her loved and lauded Melbourne restaurant
Anchovy is a great example of Le’s approach.
Opened in 2015 with her partner Jia-Yen Lee,
Anchovy immediately hit a nerve with Melbourne
diners. A smell-of-an-oily rag operation with food
billed as “Asian, Australian, a little bit in between”,
Anchovy had moments that felt like the most original
fine dining with its deft blend of influences: Le’s
childhood growing up in Sydney’s western suburbs,
her Vietnamese-Chinese heritage, her work with chefs
like Christine Manfield and Andrew McConnell. It was,
as she has said, fusion food but fusion in terms of
fusing memories, experience and tradition.
Pressing pause on Anchovy was partly about
finding a more intimate space better suited to how
Le wants to express Vietnamese cooking into the
future, but it was also pandemic-influenced, that
inevitable mix of exhaustion and re-evaluation.
Also, a pandemic side hustle of selling takeaway
khao jee pâté (the Cambodian cousin of bánh mì) not

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

Margaret
Sydney, NSW

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY & PETRINA TINSLAY.

A

t a stage in his career where he could be
kicking back, collecting a few lifetime
achievement awards and contemplating
writing volume one of his memoirs, Neil
Perry is instead adding a Best New Restaurant trophy
to his collection. It seems about right. He is, after all,
one of Australia’s all-time most influential chefs,
pioneer of modern Australian cooking, loud, proud
advocate for great Australian produce and producers
and a singularly talented restaurateur with a flair for
laid-back luxury.
You never really expect anything less than a gold
medal performance from Perry but with Margaret he
raised the stakes. This is his first solo-owned restaurant
in a decades-long career. He named it for his mother
and has his family working alongside him. It’s
personal, like an autobiography in restaurant form,
a sort of high-wire act, particularly for someone like
Perry who, for some, is as well-known for his
trademark ponytail and regular TV appearances, as
he is for his restaurants. Spoiler alert: he’s nailed it.
Being a cheerleader for great ingredients and
a supportive friend to those who provide them has

paid off in spades at Margaret. The lengthy menu –
a Perry trademark that’s hell on the decision-phobic
– is littered with long-time collaborators like Cobram
Estate (who produce the gorgeous yolk-yellow olive
oil made exclusively for Margaret) and wagyu from
David Blackmore. But seafood’s the main event at
Margaret and those producers get Beyoncé-style
single-name treatment. And so we get “Bruce’s
Southern garfish” (from renowned fisherman Bruce
Collis) or bigeye tuna from Pav and Heidi (from Walker
Seafoods). Again it feels personal, like he’s earned
the right to name-drop.
The menu is also a victory lap for Perry’s influences,
seamlessly combining pearl meat sashimi, house-made
focaccia, spicy prawn and pork sausages, wood-grilled
fish simply dressed in lemon, salt and oil and the
fabulous, signature Memories of a Mirabelle tart.
But Margaret is the whole package. The dining
room, comfortable and glamorous without being
flashy, is a lovely place to spend some time, both
during leaf-dappled daylight and under flattering
downlighting at night. The wine list is in lockstep with
the ambitions of the food – beautifully made, quality
producers, nothing too off-piste but always interesting
with a surprisingly democratic price range – and
service hits the sweet spot between casual and
efficient. Margaret is a fresh delight and proof that,
when it comes to Neil Perry, we love his new stuff as
much as his old stuff.

Clockwise from
top left: Margaret
chef-owner Neil
Perry (right) and
chef Richard
Purdue; the
dining room;
steak tartare
with chilli paste,
dashi shoyu and
potato crisps.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

75

BEST NEW TALENT

Mug Chen & Chia Wu

I

t takes guts and vision to open a natural wine bar and
restaurant in rural Australia (or anywhere for that matter).
When Taiwanese chefs Mug Chen and Chia Wu first
welcomed guests to Muni in late 2021, the daring duo
turned heads. Previously, McLaren Vale’s tiny town
of Willunga was best known for its three pubs and weekly
farmers market.
These two have the hospitality nous to back up their
vision. Previously, Chen trained in Paris where she worked at
Restaurant AT with chef Atsushi Tanaka and sommelier Lulie
Kaori Tanaka (now Muni’s Japan-based business partner and
in charge of selecting its international wines). She later honed
her skills at Melbourne’s Vue de Monde and McLaren Vale’s
The Salopian Inn. Meanwhile, Wu worked magic at d’Arenberg
Cube Restaurant, Fino Vino and The Little Rickshaw.
“We were pumped when we opened Muni because we’d
spent 10 months setting up the venue,” says Wu. “As chefs, we
were trained to put things together on a plate but this was on
a bigger scale; and for the whole experience including food,
drinks, the interior, furniture, lights, crockery and our people.”
The fit-out is all class. Adelaide’s Sans-Arc Studio used
concrete, steel and timber to transform the long, narrow bar

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

and dining space (previously a vacant office space). An L-shaped
bar offers a view of the kitchen where delicate dishes are
created. What started as a small but beautifully executed
Taiwanese-inspired snack list, now includes an 11-course set
dining menu made with top-notch ingredients such as Phoenix
wagyu and Fleurieu Peninsula’s Choice Mushrooms. Dishes
such as Taipei-style cold noodles are household favourites
from their homeland.
“At the beginning we mainly thought about serving what we
really like to eat and drink but then we realised that a lot of what
we do here is not so usual or comfortable for a lot of guests,”
says Wu. “Working out how to deliver that unique service and
experience became our most important task. As a host, it is our
job to make people feel welcome no matter what food or
beverage we are serving.”
Unicorn local wines and international natty gems enhance
the thrill factor. Easing some of McLaren Vale’s more traditional
residents into the world of natural wines hasn’t been easy but
in their own quiet way, these two are changing the way locals
eat and drink.
“We love that everything we planned in detail has finally
come together coherently,” says Wu.

PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN VAN DER KNAAP.

Muni, Willunga, SA

RESTAURANT PERSONALITY OF THE YEAR

Shannon Martinez
Smith & Daughters, Melbourne, Vic

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

F

ew people can carry off the “rock star chef”
label but Shannon Martinez passes that test
with flying colours. It’s not just her excellent
sense of style, raucous sense of humour
wrapped around a sharp wit, or the frank way she
expresses herself to signal a low tolerance for bullshit.
Above all this, it’s that she’s managed to nail a
manoeuvre that has a dizzying degree of difficulty:
creating food loved by vegans and non-vegans alike.
Martinez has been instrumental in popularising
plant-based eating in Australia. This year, ever the
pioneer, she combined her two businesses - Smith
& Daughters and Smith & Deli - under one roof in the
fashionable inner Melbourne suburb Collingwood,
making it the biggest, best-looking vegan hub in the
country. It overhauled perceptions of what a vegan
restaurant can be with a sharp, dark and handsome
aesthetic and a menu that offers plant-based versions
of everything from spaghetti carbonara and chicken
schnitzel to deli meats, cheese and doughnuts. She’s
also the executive chef (with chef Ian Curley) at Lona
Misa, the signature restaurant at Ovolo South Yarra
that offers vegan and vegetarian dishes, has written
three mega-selling vegan cookbooks (with a fourth on
the way) and is a constant at food festivals, music
festivals, conferences and charity events and makes
regular appearances on television and in print. Just
reading her CV can be a little exhausting.
Perhaps the best way that Martinez has been able
to bridge the vegan-omnivore divide is that she is not
a vegan herself. Though she eats very little meat – her
plant-based eating passion is fuelled by the damage
untrammelled meat-consumption can cause the
environment – she hasn’t ditched it altogether
because it helps her create vegan versions of meaty
dishes. Her method when creating a new recipe is
to first cook the traditional version and then adjust
and tweak flavours until the vegan recipe is as close
as it can possibly be to the original. As the surprised
look on many a hard-core carnivore’s faces when they
taste Martinez’s plant-based meatballs or calamari or
risotto alla Milanese attests, her palate is one of the
finest around.
Shannon Martinez’s talents as a chef would
always have allowed her to go a long way in her
chosen profession but her skills as a fine and effective
communicator, skills that have allowed her to overhaul
attitudes to veganism and create a little harmony in
the often-fraught relationship between vegans and
non-vegans, are what make her truly remarkable.

Paloma
Burleigh Heads, Qld

T

here are bars where booze is the main focus
and food barely gets a look-in. And bars
where it’s all about the snacks, and drinks
seem almost an afterthought. Then, there’s
diminutive Paloma, a buzzy Gold Coast Goldilocks
of a bar in beachy Burleigh Heads, which appears
almost effortlessly to get the balance just right.
Of course, lineage helps. When Paloma’s owners
chef Alex Munoz Labart and wife Karla kicked off
nearby Restaurant Labart in 2018, it was hailed not
just for its refined, produce-forward, mod bistro-style
fare, but also for its adventurous largely minimal
intervention wine list.
Paloma, which opened last November, continues
the charge. Conceived originally as a neighbourhood
bar, the Munoz Labarts hoped the tiny tenancy on
bustling James Street would become a groovy spot
where locals could congregate, and a cool setting for
Labart diners in search of well-considered pre and
post drinks.
But it’s fair to say, it’s evolved into something more
significant. In months it’s become a destination which,
like Labart, is helping reshape tired assumptions
about the Gold Coast.
If you’re after dinner, Labart remains the best
go-to. But Paloma’s snacks will give you compelling
reasons to linger longer while you explore just one
more glass. It’s no disrespect to Paloma’s impressive

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from
top left: Paloma’s
bar; Paloma
co-owners
Alex and Karla
Munoz Labart;
chamomileinfused white
rum, honey,
Sherry, verjus,
peppermint
gum, CO2.

PHOTOGRAPHY KENNY SMITH SHOOTS.

WINE BAR OF THE YEAR

nature-friendly drinks roundup to say the bar’s small
plates give these mainly small-batch choices a run
for their money – particularly when Munoz Labart
personally mans the pans.
The food options aren’t overly tricky. Simply listed
on a single page, they morph regularly. It’s an offer
anchored by traditional favourites – perhaps great
oysters with a sharp mignonette dressing, beef
tartare, a juicy steak frites with peppercorn sauce,
the perfectly proportioned La burger or occasionally,
a lobster sandwich.
Classic snacks-with-a-twist ensure interest levels
stay high, supple folds of jamon Iberico come out
dialled up with brightly pickled pimenta de bico,
or there’s a Labart carry over – creamy burrata with
strawberry, cucumber and basil oil. A recent standout
addition is the buttery, deeply savoury caramelised
onion tart, dished with an umami-boosting tonnato
sauce and olives. In general? Expect a tasty, textural,
fat, salt and umami party that shows off Paloma’s
nuanced list to advantage.
The cocktail list is tight – just five house drinks,
with classics on request. By the glass wine choices
are equally strategic – perhaps Flora, a riesling blend
from Austrian natural maker Michael Gindl, or a low-fi
skin-contact trebbiano by Umbria’s Cantino Margò.
Or maybe a Slovenian barbera or a glass of Bodegas
Exopto’s easy drinking Rioja. Going by the bottle?
A page of pet-nats and another swag of chilled reds
present the perfect matches to Paloma’s elevated
coastal fun times vibe.
Housed in a long, slender tenancy that subtly
evokes the southern Mediterranean, the floor team
under bar managers Elisa Rodrigues and James Burrell
is as efficient as it’s friendly and welcoming. The
venue’s no-booking policy is predictably smart. It may
mean you have to take a walk or two around the block
before securing a seat. But it will be worth the wait.

BEST DESTINATION DINING

Van Bone
Marion Bay, Tas

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON & TOURISM AUSTRALIA.

I

t would be easy to miss Van Bone. After all, it’s
a 45-minute drive from Hobart in a town that’s
really just a dot on the map. It’s low-slung and
nestled into the gentle slope of a paddock that’s
also home to a herd of grazing cows. But enter the
dimly lit rammed-earth vestibule via a heavy timber
door and you begin to get a hint of what’s to come
– tomatoes on the vine hang from the ceiling for
a final ripen, there’s a glimpse into the kitchen through
a sliver of window and a shaft of light draws you into
the dining room.
It’s the view that stops you there. Huge windows
face north, framing lush farmland, the cliffs of Hellfire
Bluff and then Maria Island in the distance. It’s
breathtaking, all-enveloping and the perfect backdrop
for chef-owner Tim Hardy’s quintessentially Tasmanian
cuisine. With a focus on local and foraged ingredients,
supplemented by their own vegetables, Van Bone
offers guests dishes that are often surprising and
always delicious. The 14-course menu changes
regularly and each course is explained by either
Hardy or restaurant manager-owner Laura Stucken
(Hardy’s fiancée). It could include fatty pork jowl

Clockwise from
top left: pickled
cucumber
muncher, lemon
verbena (in
hand), albacore
tuna, wakame
pastry, beach
herbs and cured
egg; the dining
room; Van Bone
co-owners,
chef Tim Hardy
and restaurant
manager Laura
Stucken.

sliced paper thin and served with coffee kombucha,
jalapeños from the garden drenched with apple cider
vinegar Hardy made five years ago with seasoning
provided by salt made from local seawater, collected
by the pair on their days off. Hardy’s background at
regional restaurants including Brae, The Lake House
and Garagistes has informed his passion for hyperlocal and seasonal food, all of which is cooked over
the open kitchen’s wood-fire oven and grill.
Dining tables of torched Tasmanian oak were
created by Launceston furniture designer Simon
Ancher and each of the 18 seats has an individual
drawer of vintage cutlery to be used throughout the
meal. Named for Van Diemens Land and a local surf
break, the restaurant was designed by Stucken, an
interior architect, and Hardy (a keen surfer) helped
build it, along with the extensive permaculture
vegetable garden and native landscaping (Stucken
suggests a stroll around the property before dessert).
It’s a long way to go for lunch, but every carefully
considered element creates a truly memorable meal
in a winning destination.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

81

OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION
TO HOSPITALITY

Dani Valent

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

D

ani Valent has been one of Australia’s best food
communicators for 20 years, a journalist, food
critic, travel writer, cook and cookbook author
who has applied her intelligence, wit, knowledge
and positivity across a range of mediums, from print, radio,
television and web through to in-person cooking classes
and charity work (she’s been a FareShare ambassador
for nearly a decade).
It was already an impressive career pre-pandemic.
But then Covid arrived and struck a disproportionately
severe blow to the industry she knew and loved. Valent
opened the tool box and went to work.
At a time when everything was uncertain and chaotic,
Valent brought her journalist skills into play. She became
an information portal for the hospitality industry and for
hospitality workers, including the many foreign workers
who were on visas and so cut adrift. She waded through
the daily-shifting and often contradictory information
coming from governments about what was and was not
available to workers and restaurants in terms of financial
assistance, what was happening with practicalities like
density limits and mask mandates and kept that stream
of information regularly updated.
Then there was her podcast, Dirty Linen, that she
started during Melbourne’s first lockdown, in order to
“cover the issues the hospitality industry finds hard
to share in public”. The podcast, which is still going,
consisted mostly of interviews with people in the
industry – everybody from restaurateurs and chefs to
producers, writers, foreign workers and international
students. It was filled with a lot of practical information
but it also brought home just how amazingly diverse
the industry is and how many thoughtful people work
in it. It also shone a light on how many moving parts
go into every food and drink-related business, from
day-to-day issues of sourcing staff and produce to
issues around mental and physical health and wellbeing.
The reason Dani Valent started Dirty Linen was so
“people could feel less alone and could see themselves
in other people’s stories”. By communicating some
certainty on a regular basis – whether that was the latest
news on how to ventilate a restaurant properly, where
hospo workers unable to access JobKeeper could get
themselves a free feed (often from other restaurants,
including the soup kitchen Valent worked on with Attica’s
Ben Shewry) or all the latest in restaurant pivoting and
side-hustling – Valent made an immense contribution to
the wellbeing of the hospitality industry. And we think
that kind of empathetic contribution is nothing short
of outstanding.

Taste The Wild
Just like wine has terroir, the taste of the environment in the grape,
so too every Australian Wild Prawn has merroir, the taste of the
wild ocean and rugged, remote place of origin. Meet the hardworking
people who catch your Australian Wild Prawns and discover
the region and species right for your style of cooking.

Scan to discover
your species

australianwildprawns.com.au

You get more with

Australian
Wild
Prawns

FOOD
OCTOBER

Bright bites
Recipes from Australia’s
best chefs, Karen Martini’s
seasonal fare, and Julia
Busuttil Nishimura’s
Japanese-inspired dishes.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.

Smoked beetroot,
agrodolce and
hazelnuts

92

p

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

85

GOLD
CLASS

Experience a taste of some of Australia’s best restaurants
at home with these chef recipes from around the country.

Fugazzi’s tagliarini
with crab, chilli,
and garlic

p
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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

95

Tedesca Osteria’s
whole snapper
with orange and
pistachio sauce

p

91

Photography BEN DEARNLEY
Styling VIVIEN WALSH

Food preparation TAMIKA O’NEILL
and DOMINIC SMITH

Zucchini tart La Bella Shell
Scallop Yellow armchair
from Bunnings. Terrazzo
table from Simply Seated. All
other props stylist’s own.

PORCINE, NSW

Zucchini, pecorino and basil tart
SERVES 8-9 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 1 HR 35 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)

“This is a tart that screams the season. Even the sweetest most tender zucchinis lend themselves to the addition of some fat and
acidity. The rich seasonings of pecorino, lemon zest and juice, along with basil bring a bright punch to this dish,” says chef Nik Hill.

1 sheet (375gm) frozen Carême puff
pastry, thawed
9 thin small zucchini (about 720gm),
cut into 3cm lengths (see note)
Finely grated pecorino, to serve
ZUCCHINI FILLING

125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for brushing
2 white onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
5 thin small zucchini (about 400gm),
thinly sliced (see note)
150 ml dry white wine
Juice and zest of 2 lemons
100 gm pecorino, finely grated
1 egg, lightly whisked
30 gm fresh sourdough breadcrumbs
ZUCCHINI AND BASIL PURÉE

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
4 thin small zucchini (about 320gm),
thinly sliced (see note)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 cup (loosely packed) basil leaves
ZUCCHINI SALAD

Juice of 1 lemon
5 zucchini flowers, halved lengthways
3 small zucchini (about 320gm), thinly
shaved
1 cup (loosely packed) basil leaves

1 For filling, heat oil in a large deep
frying pan over medium-high heat. Add
onion and garlic; cook, stirring frequently,
until onion begins to soften. Add zucchini
and wine; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat
to low and simmer until zucchini is broken
down (30 minutes). Transfer to a bowl;
stir in lemon juice and zest, and pecorino,
then season to taste. Refrigerate until
cooled (1 hour); then stir in egg and
breadcrumbs and set aside.
2 For purée, heat oil in a medium
saucepan over high heat. Add zucchini,
garlic and 100ml water and bring to the
boil. Cover and cook, shaking pan
occasionally until zucchini is just tender
(5 minutes). Transfer to a bowl placed
over an ice bath and stir continuously
until zucchini mixture has cooled
completely. Transfer to a blender with
basil and blend until puréed; season
to taste. Pass through a fine sieve
and refrigerate until ready to serve.
3 Place a pizza stone or heavy-based
oven tray in the oven and preheat to
180˚C fan-forced. Grease a 3cm-high,
20cm-diameter fluted, loose-bottomed
tart tin. Line base and sides of tin with

pastry pressing firmly to fit; trim excess
pastry and discard. Dock base; freeze
for 30 minutes. Remove pastry case
from freezer and spread half filling
evenly over base. Position zucchini
lengths standing upright in filling, leaving
small gaps in between; fill gaps with
remaining zucchini mixture, pushing
down gently. Brush cut-sides of zucchini
lengths with oil and season to taste.
Cook tart on heated oven tray or
pizza stone until pastry is golden and
zucchini is tender (55-60 minutes);
rest on a wire rack for 20 minutes.
4 Meanwhile, for salad, place
ingredients in a bowl, drizzle with olive
oil, season and toss to combine. Slice
tart and divide among plates. Spoon over
purée and scatter with pecorino; serve
tart warm with zucchini salad on the side.
Note Use any small thin zucchini
seasonally available; thin zucchini are
best for this recipe as thick ones hold
too much water. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

89

TEDESCA OSTERIA, VIC
RESTAURANT BOTANIC, SA

Wagyu and asparagus skewers
with charred capsicum paste
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS STANDING, RESTING)

“This dish is inspired by our wagyu cooked on pine branches with fermented
capsicum paste. You don’t need to use wagyu – grass-fed, or organic beef would
work here, too. I love rib-eye, it is full of flavour, texture and fattiness, and in my
opinion the best cut ever,” says chef Justin James.

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tsp each coarsely chopped flat-leaf
parsley, chives and coriander
60 ml (1⁄4 cup) lemon juice
2 tsp ground coriander
125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra, for drizzling
2-3 bunches asparagus, cut into 3cm
lengths, blanched, refreshed
4 wagyu scotch fillet steaks (350gm
each), cut lengthways into 2.5cmthick slices
8 cypress pine branches or bamboo
skewers (30cm long)
Baby chives, to serve
PICKLED ONIONS
200 ml white balsamic
80 gm caster sugar
2 large white onions, cut into 4.5cm
squares
CHARRED CAPSICUM PASTE
2 red capsicums (250gm each), pierced
60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
50 gm macadamias
20 gm semi-dried tomatoes
2½ tsp lime juice
2 garlic cloves, quartered
2 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp white balsamic vinegar
Pinch of cayenne

1 For pickled onions, place balsamic,
sugar, 80ml water and 2½ tsp sea salt
flakes in a small saucepan and bring
to the boil. Place onions in a heatproof
bowl; pour over pickling liquid; cool
completely before using.
2 For charred capsicum paste, preheat
a lightly greased barbecue or char-grill
pan to high heat. Barbecue capsicum,
turning occasionally until charred all over
(20 minutes). Place in a bowl, cover tightly
with plastic wrap and stand to steam for
15 minutes. Quarter capsicum, discard
skin and seeds. Place capsicum in a food
processor, with remaining ingredients
and pulse to a paste. Season to taste.
3 For dressing, pulse garlic, herbs, juice,
ground coriander and oil in a small food
processor until finely chopped. Season.
4 Drain onions and place in a bowl with
asparagus. Remove all but 5cm pine
needles from pine branches then trim
ends to a sharp point. Skewer a piece
of wagyu in an “S” shape onto each pine
skewer, followed by a piece of onion
then asparagus; repeat 3 times finishing
with a piece of beef on each skewer.
Refrigerate until required.
5 Drizzle skewers with oil and grill for
2½ minutes each side or until cooked
to medium; rest for 5 minutes.
6 Spoon capsicum paste onto a platter
and top with skewers. Drizzle with herb
dressing and scatter with baby chives
and cracked black pepper.

Whole snapper
with orange and
pistachio sauce
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 25 MINS
(PLUS COOLING, RESTING)

“This sauce is a favourite at Tedesca,
especially when oranges are at their
peak. It’s also delicious with oily fish
such as sardines, mackerel or swordfish,”
says chef Brigitte Hafner. Pictured p87

125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra for drizzling
2 large oranges, flesh cut into 5mm
pieces
2½ tbsp each finely chopped coriander
and mint, plus extra to serve
2 golden shallots, finely chopped
25 gm slivered pistachios
2 small garlic cloves, finely grated
1 tbsp Sherry vinegar
2 tsp orange blossom water
4 whole snapper (500gm each),
scaled, cleaned
PICKLED LEEKS

2
2
2
4
6
1
2
320
1
20

bay leaves
golden shallots, thinly sliced
small garlic cloves, thinly sliced
thyme sprigs
saffron threads, roasted
tbsp coriander seeds, coarsely
crushed
tsp white peppercorns, coarsely
crushed
ml each white wine vinegar and
extra-virgin olive oil
small orange, rind peeled into strips
pencil leeks, dark green part trimmed

1 For pickled leeks, place ingredients
except leeks in a saucepan with 400ml
water and 1 tbsp salt flakes; bring to the
boil. Reduce heat to low, add leeks and
simmer until just tender (3 minutes).
Cool completely in pickling liquor.
2 For sauce, combine remaining
ingredients except snapper in a bowl,
season to taste; set aside until required.
3 Preheat a grill to high heat. Place
snapper on large greased oven trays,
season and drizzle with oil. Grill on top
shelf until skin is crisp and snapper is
cooked (20 minutes); rest for 5 minutes.
4 To serve, divide drained pickled leeks
among plates and top with snapper.
Spoon over orange and pistachio sauce
and scatter with extra herbs. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

91

BEACH BYRON BAY, NSW

Smoked beetroot, agrodolce and hazelnuts
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 1 HR 10 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

“At the restaurant we roast, peel, then slightly dry out the beetroot over the fire pit
so it’s juicy on the inside with a beautiful smokiness,” says chef Alanna Sapwell.
“The flavours in this dish are nicely layered; the sweet and sour from the agrodolce,
nuttiness of the hazelnuts, freshness of the red witlof, and bitterness of the radicchio.”

1 small radicchio, leaves separated
60 ml (¼ cup) verjuice
Roasted chopped hazelnuts, baby
red shiso and bull’s blood leaves
(see note), to serve
SMOKED BEETROOT

12 baby beetroot, trimmed
8 thyme sprigs
100 gm woodchips (see note), soaked in
cold water for 30 minutes, drained
AGRODOLCE

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive, plus extra for
drizzling
2 golden shallots, thinly sliced
225 ml white wine vinegar
80 ml (⅓ cup) dry white wine
75 gm currants
45 gm caster sugar

92

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Preheat oven to 180˚C. Place
beetroot on sheet of foil lined
with baking paper; drizzle with
oil, scatter with thyme and season
to taste. Toss to coat. Enclose foil
and paper and place on a large
oven tray. Roast until beetroot
are just tender (50 minutes).
Cool slightly, then peel and halve.
2 For smoked beetroot, line a large
wok with foil, place soaked woodchips
in base and place a wire rack on top.
Place beetroot on rack and cover with
a lid or a double layer of foil to seal
tightly. Heat wok over an outside gas
ring over medium heat until chips begin
to smoke. Reduce heat to low and smoke
until beetroot have taken on the smoky
flavour (15 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, for agrodolce, heat oil in
a small frying pan over medium-high heat.
Cook shallots, stirring occasionally, until
they begin to soften (3 minutes). Add
remaining ingredients, bring to the boil,
reduce heat to low and simmer until
reduced (12 minutes); keep warm.
4 Place radicchio in a large bowl, drizzle
with extra oil, season to taste and toss
to coat. Heat a large frying pan over high
heat; cook radicchio, tossing frequently,
until starting to wilt (30 seconds).
Deglaze pan with verjuice; cook, tossing
frequently, until verjuice has evaporated.
5 To serve, divide radicchio among plates
and top with beetroot and bull’s blood.
Spoon over warm agrodolce and scatter
with hazelnuts and herbs.
Note Bull’s blood leaves are available
from select greengrocers. Smoking
woodchips, such as apple or cherry
wood, are available from barbecuesupply shops.

SI PARADISO, WA

Charred octopus with almonds and mandarin
SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS (PLUS STANDING, CHILLING)

“The octopus carries so much flavour especially when it’s braised and finished on
a hibachi or barbecue,” says chef Paul Greenham. “The almond purée adds lightness
while the sweetness of the mandarin brings balance.” Begin this recipe a day ahead.

3 tsp each fennel seeds,
coriander seeds and white
peppercorns, toasted
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
10 flat-leaf parsley stalks
8 bay leaves
2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
2 lemons, 1 cut in half, and 1 juiced
1 each onion and small fennel bulb,
coarsely chopped
½ tsp chilli flakes
2.6 kg tenderised octopus,
head removed
Parsley, to serve
ALMOND PURÉE

200 gm blanched almonds, soaked in
500ml water overnight
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp lemon juice
MANDARIN VINAIGRETTE

60 ml (¼ cup) freshly squeezed
mandarin juice, sieved
2 banana shallots, finely chopped

1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp Sherry vinegar
3 tsp each finely chopped oregano,
flat-leaf parsley and chives
80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
2 mandarins, segmented
LENTILS

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
1 each small carrot, brown onion, small
fennel bulb and celery stalk, cut into
1cm pieces
130 gm black lentils (see note)
60 ml (¼ cup) Sherry vinegar
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 Wrap whole spices in muslin; place
with 1 tbsp salt and remaining ingredients
in a large saucepan. Add enough cold
water to cover octopus by 5cm. Bring to
the boil, reduce heat to low, cover with
cartouche and simmer until octopus is
tender (50 minutes). Remove from heat;

stand octopus for 45 minutes before
transferring to a tray; refrigerate, loosely
covered, overnight. Strain braising liquid
and reserve.
2 Meanwhile, for purée, drain almonds,
reserving 300ml water. Blend almonds
and reserved water with remaining
ingredients until smooth; season to taste.
3 For vinaigrette, whisk ingredients
except segments together in a bowl;
season to taste. Stir in segments.
4 For lentils, heat oil in a saucepan over
high heat. Add vegetables; cook, stirring
occasionally, until vegetables begin to
soften (6 minutes). Stir in lentils with 200ml
reserved braising liquid and 100ml water,
and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low
and simmer until lentils are just tender
(20-25 minutes). Stir in Sherry vinegar and
cook for a further 5 minutes, then stir in
mustard and parsley, season to taste.
5 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue
or char-grill pan to high heat. Cut tentacles
to separate. Drizzle with oil and barbecue,
turning occasionally, until charred and
heated through (2-3 minutes).
6 To serve, divide purée and lentils
among plates, top with octopus and spoon
over vinaigrette. Scatter with parsley.
Note Black lentils are available from select
supermarkets and specialty food shops. ➤

FUGAZZI BAR & DINING ROOM, SA

PEPPINA, TAS

Tagliarini with crab, chilli, and garlic

Pizza fritta

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 50 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS (PLUS RESTING, INFUSING)

SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 30 MINS
(PLUS PROVING, COOLING)

“The simplicity of the ingredients make this dish easy to recreate while highlighting
the star of the show: the handpicked blue swimmer crab,” says chef Max Sharrad.
Pictured p86

1.5 kg raw blue swimmer crabs (about 4),
cleaned
500 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped
3 golden shallots, finely chopped
2 long red chillies, seeds removed,
finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp each finely chopped chives and
flat-leaf parsley, plus extra chives,
to serve
2 tbsp lemon juice
Chilli flakes and salmon roe, to serve
PASTA DOUGH

250 gm “00” flour
25 gm fine semolina, plus extra for
dusting
2 eggs, plus 1 yolk, lightly beaten
1 For pasta dough, place ingredients,
2 tbsp water and a pinch of salt in a bowl
of an electric mixer fitted with a dough
hook; mix on medium speed until dough
comes together and is smooth. Roll into
a ball, wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2 To laminate pasta, cut dough in half,
working with one piece at a time, flatten
it with the palm of your hand. Dust lightly
with semolina and feed it through the
pasta machine, starting at the widest
setting. Fold the two ends of dough
towards each other, then rotate dough
90 degrees and feed through the pasta
machine again. Laminate twice on widest
setting, then continue to feed dough
through pasta machine, reducing
settings, notch by notch, until 2mm thick.
Cut sheets into 40cm lengths and dust
with extra semolina; place on trays.
3 To cut tagliarini, stack two sheets
and fold in half lengthways then cut into
2-3mm wide strips. Dust liberally with
semolina, place and cover until ready
to cook. Repeat with remaining dough.
Alternatively, cut, using the cutter
attachment on your pasta machine.

4 To cook crabs, fill a large saucepan
three-quarters full with salted water
and bring to the boil. Add crabs, cover,
and return to the boil. Once boiling,
cook covered, for 15 minutes or until
just cooked through. Remove and
refresh immediately in iced water; drain.
Using a crab fork, pick meat; reserve
meat and shells in separate bowls.
5 Place butter in a heavy-based
saucepan over low-medium heat. Add
half of the reserved shells and cook,
stirring occasionally, until butter is
fragrant (12-15 minutes). Stand until
slightly cooled (10 minutes). Strain
through a fine sieve into a bowl and
leave at room temperature until ready
to use. Makes 430gm (see note).
6 For crab stock, place remaining shells
in a large heavy-based saucepan over
high heat. Cover with water and bring
to the boil. Reduce heat to low and skim
impurities that rise to the surface. Simmer
for 20 minutes then remove from heat.
Stand, covered to infuse until room
temperature (30 minutes). Strain through
a fine sieve into a jug. Makes 1.2 litres.
7 Place 2 tbsp crab butter in a large
deep frying pan over high heat. Add
shallots, chilli and garlic; cook, stirring
occasionally, until shallots begin to
soften (3-4 minutes). Add 375ml stock
and reduce by three-quarters or until
slightly thickened (5-8 minutes).
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
saucepan of boiling salted water until
al dente (1-2 minutes). Drain and add
to pan with reserved crab meat, herbs,
lemon juice, and 3 tbsp crab butter, and
toss well to combine; season to taste.
8 To serve, divide pasta among shallow
bowls then top with chives, chilli flakes
and salmon roe.
Note Leftover crab butter can be frozen
for 3 months and used as desired.

“The fritta is a fun and nostalgic street
food dish,” says chef Massimo Mele.
“The ricotta adds creaminess while
the prosciutto adds a nice saltiness.”

30
2
2
1

gm honey
sachets (7gm each) dried yeast
tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
kg “00” flour, sifted
Olive oil, for shallow-frying
240 gm (1 cup) fresh ricotta
90 gm sliced prosciutto (6 slices)
ZUCCHINI TOPPING

125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 green banana chillies, seeds
removed, finely chopped
1 kg zucchini, very thinly sliced
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp each finely chopped mint and
marjoram, plus extra to serve
1 For dough, place honey, yeast, oil and
650ml lukewarm water in a jug and stir
to combine. Stand in a warm place until
foamy (30 minutes). Place flour, 20gm salt
flakes and yeast mixture into a bowl of an
electric mixer fitted with a dough hook.
Mix on low speed until dough is smooth
and elastic. Rest dough for 1 hour, then
divide into 15 portions and roll into balls.
Stand on lined oven trays, loosely
covered, until puffed (30 minutes).
2 For topping, heat two-thirds oil, garlic
and chilli in a saucepan over medium-high
heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until garlic
is light golden (3 minutes). Stir in zucchini;
reduce heat to low. Cover and cook,
stirring occasionally, until zucchini is
tender (15 minutes). Using a wooden
spoon, crush any large pieces of zucchini.
Stir in lemon zest and juice, remaining
oil and herbs; transfer to a serving bowl.
3 Half fill a large saucepan with olive
oil and heat to 180˚C. Using your fingers,
flatten each portion of dough to a 13cm
disc. Fry in batches, turning occasionally,
until golden (3 minutes). Drain on a tray
lined with paper towel; season with salt.
Serve warm with zucchini topping, ricotta,
prosciutto and extra herbs. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

95

RESTAURANT LABART, QLD

Coconut sorbet
with dulce de leche
SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 2 HRS
(PLUS COOLING, CHURNING, FREEZING)

“This dish is inspired by a traditional
Chilean cake my mother makes called
torta de mil hojas, which means thousand
layer cake,” says chef Alex Munoz Labart.

200
90
400
800
20

gm liquid glucose
gm caster sugar
ml coconut water
ml coconut cream
gm sorbet stabiliser (see note)
Roasted desiccated coconut, to serve
DULCE DE LECHE SABAYON

395
3
70
375

gm can sweetened condensed milk
eggs
gm caster sugar
ml (1½ cups) pouring cream

1 For sorbet, stir glucose, sugar and
200ml coconut water in a saucepan
over medium heat until sugar dissolves
(3 minutes). Place in a blender with
remaining coconut water, coconut cream
and stabiliser and blend to combine.
Churn, in batches, if necessary, in an
ice-cream machine (25 minutes) and
freeze until firm (3 hours). Sorbet will
keep covered frozen for 1 month.
2 Meanwhile, for dulce de leche, place
condensed milk can in a large saucepan
with enough water to fully submerge.
Bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low
and simmer for 2 hours, topping up with
water occasionally,. Ensure can is always
covered with water or it may explode.
3 Remove can from water and stand
until cool enough to handle. Whisk eggs
and sugar in a large heatproof bowl over
a saucepan of gently simmering water
until soft peaks form. Working quickly,
open condensed milk can and transfer
200ml to a bowl with ¼ tsp sea salt
flakes. And using a whisk, stir to
combine, then fold in egg mixture.
4 Whisk cream in bowl of an electric
mixer to soft peaks; fold though dulce de
leche mixture. Cover surface directly
with plastic wrap; refrigerate until chilled
(1-2 hours).
5 To serve, spoon dulce de leche
sabayon into bowls and top with a scoop
of coconut sorbet. Scatter with coconut.
Note Sorbet stabiliser is available from
specialty food shops.

Mango cup Champagne
flutes from Maison Balzac.
All other props stylist’s own.

PILOT, ACT

Mango cup
SERVES 10 // PREP TIME 55 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, FREEZING)

“Eating out should celebrate the seasons and this mango recipe exemplifies the change of seasons. It balances sweet, acidic and
spicy flavours with varied techniques to create layers of texture,” says chef Malcolm Hanslow.

5 mangoes (430gm each)
2 tbsp lime juice
Passionfruit pulp, lime zest
and nasturtium flowers, to serve
MANGO PARFAIT

160
6
¼
375

gm caster sugar
egg yolks
tsp citric acid
ml (1½ cups) pouring cream,
whipped to soft peaks
MANGO CURD

5 egg yolks
100 gm caster sugar
125 gm cold unsalted butter, cut into 1cm
pieces
2 tbsp lime juice
CHILLI CARAMEL

200 gm caster sugar
50 gm fermented chilli (see note)
1 Cut cheeks from mangoes horizontally,
separating from seed. Using a large
metal spoon, scoop out mango flesh
taking care not to pierce skin, then cut

flesh from around seed. Place mango
cups, cut-side up, on a tray and freeze
(1 hour) or until required. Place 575gm
mango flesh in a blender and blend
until puréed; set aside.
2 For mango parfait, stir sugar and 60ml
water in a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to
the boil; cook until mixture reaches 121˚C
on a sugar thermometer (6-8 minutes).
Meanwhile, whisk yolks in an electric
mixer on high speed until pale and fluffy.
Reduce speed to low, gradually add sugar
syrup and whisk until cooled to room
temperature (5 minutes); fold in 250gm
mango purée and citric acid, then fold
in whipped cream. Half fill each frozen
mango cup with parfait and freeze until
set (2 hours). Leftover parfait can be
frozen for 3 months.
3 Meanwhile, for mango curd, place
yolks, sugar and remaining 325gm
mango purée from step 1 in a saucepan
and whisk to combine. Cook; stirring

continuously until mixture reaches 82˚C;
remove from heat. Using a stick blender,
gradually blend in butter until emulsified
then lime juice. Transfer to a container
and cover closely with plastic wrap;
refrigerate until cooled (40 minutes).
4 For chilli caramel, place sugar and
100ml water in a small heavy-based
saucepan over medium heat. Simmer
without stirring until a dark caramel
(10 minutes). Taking care as the mixture
will spit, add 50ml water and fermented
chilli, and whisk until combined; cool to
room temperature.
5 To serve, cut remaining mango flesh
into rough 1cm pieces; combine in a bowl
with a quarter of the caramel and lime
juice. Place frozen mango cups on plates,
top with mango mixture, passionfruit and
a little more chilli caramel. Spoon over
curd, drizzle with chilli caramel and scatter
with lime zest and nasturtium flowers.
Note Fermented chilli is available from
select supermarkets and Asian grocers. 
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

97

C

S
A
S
IC
L

Zucchini flower,
wild rice, lentil
and yoghurt salad

p

101

MA

RTI

I
N

Chef KAREN MARTINI shares family favourites
and refreshing new dishes in her latest book, Cook.

Prawn and
poached chicken
vermicelli salad

p

102

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

99

E

ven though I was classically trained at
a young age and have cooked for more
than thirty years professionally, when
I am cooking at home I feel my family
stretching out before and after me. I feel the
hand of my Meme, her deft touch and innate
understanding of flavour, and I take great
pleasure in cooking with my girls, not just
showing them how to make this or that, but also
passing on the love of the process just as much
as the result.
I grew up cooking with my mother and
grandmothers. The first dishes I grappled with
were simple – ratatouille, lasagne, crumbed
schnitzel, stuffed capsicums – passed down
over time, cooked without fuss but with a real
understanding of flavour, of detail. It was
addictive. Crafting something from raw
ingredients, investing in the process, caring
every step of the way. And then I got to eat!

Kingfish kibbeh nayyeh
SERVES 4-6

“A popular dish of the Levant, kibbeh has
different forms, but the central tenet is
that it is a dish of ground meat and grain
with spices. Kibbeh nayyeh is the raw
version: a tartare,” says Karen Martini.

4 tbsp salmon roe
Soft boiled egg and pita breads,
to serve
3 coriander sprigs, leaves picked
2 dill or mint sprigs, leaves picked
6 small radishes, with some vibrant
greenery left on
2 handfuls of fresh fenugreek leaves,
mizuna or watercress, to serve
1 lemon, cut into wedges or cheeks

Chef and
author Karen
Martini.

KINGFISH KIBBEH

50 gm cracked freekeh, bulgur wheat
or black barley
400 gm kingfish, salmon or ocean trout,
skin, bones and bloodline removed,
well chilled
2 red Asian shallots, or 1 small white
onion, finely diced
2 long green chillies, seeds removed,
finely diced
Zest and juice of ½ lemon
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling
1 heaped tsp ground sumac, plus extra
to serve
½ tsp ground allspice
1 tsp celery seeds
1½ tsp salt flakes
1 For kingfish kibbeh, if using freekeh,
boil for 15-20 minutes, until tender, then
drain and cool, spreading freekeh on
a plate to dry out. If using bulgur, just
cover with hot water, then stand until cool.
2 Cut fish into 3mm dice, then add to
a chilled bowl. Add remaining kibbeh
ingredients and combine, adjusting the
seasoning. Pile kibbeh on a serving
plate, then spread out with a spatula.
Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it onto
the kibbeh, then chill for 10 minutes.
3 To serve, unwrap kibbeh, spoon on
salmon roe, top with boiled egg and
scatter over coriander and dill. Arrange
radishes and fenugreek around edge.
Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with sumac and
serve with lemon and pita breads.

Zucchini flower, wild rice, lentil and yoghurt salad
SERVES 4

“This filling salad is both fresh and earthy, with a wealth of textural contrasts. It makes
for a delicious light meal, and is also great the next day,” says Martini. Pictured p98

150 gm (¾ cup) black wild rice
2 tsp cumin seeds
120 gm (⅔ cup) green lentils
Oil, for shallow-frying
6 zucchini flowers, with baby zucchini
attached
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1 garlic clove, finely grated
Juice of ½ lemon
150 gm Greek-style yoghurt
2 spring onions, white part only, finely
sliced
Handful of mint leaves
Handful of dill fronds

1 Add 100gm of the wild rice and cumin
seeds to a saucepan of lightly salted
simmering water and cook until just
tender, about 20 minutes, then drain.
2 Meanwhile, add lentils to another
saucepan of lightly salted cold water,

bring to a simmer and cook until tender,
about 12 minutes, then drain.
3 Heat 3cm oil in a small saucepan until
about 200°C. Fry remaining wild rice in
batches until it puffs up, which will take
a few seconds – if it doesn’t puff quickly,
the oil is too cool. Drain on paper towel.
4 Detach flowers from zucchini and split
flowers in half. Finely slice zucchini into
rounds using a mandolin.
5 Add sliced zucchini, garlic and
a splash of olive oil to a large bowl,
season with salt and pepper and toss.
Add boiled wild rice, zucchini flowers
and lemon juice; toss gently to combine.
6 To another bowl, add lentils, yoghurt,
spring onion, mint, most of the dill and
a splash of olive oil; season and combine.
7 Spread lentil mixture on a serving
plate. Top with wild rice mixture, scatter
over puffed wild rice and remaining dill
and serve. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

101

Prawn and poached chicken vermicelli salad
SERVES 4

“Thai and Vietnamese salads are always ultra-bright, zapping you with an intense
vibrancy of flavour, sour lime, exhilarating herbs and dressings laced with heat
and sweetness. They’re my ideal summer’s day lunch,” says Martini. Pictured p99\

2 large chicken breasts (about 250gm)
Fish sauce, for seasoning
2 large ripe but firm mangoes
2 long red chillies, finely chopped
1 lime, plus lime cheeks to serve
400 gm bean thread noodles or rice
vermicelli
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
8 cooked king prawns, peeled and
sliced in half lengthways
50 gm (⅓ cup) small salted roasted
red-skinned peanuts
CUCUMBER, CELERY HEART AND
HERB SALAD

2 Lebanese cucumbers, semi-peeled
in stripes and sliced 5mm thick
2 limes, segmented and cut into small
triangles
1 celery heart, leaves picked, sliced
2 handfuls of snow peas, finely sliced
2 handfuls of Vietnamese mint leaves
2 handfuls of Thai basil leaves
2 handfuls of snow pea sprouts,
or pea shoots
2 long green chillies, sliced
NUOC CHAM

120 ml fish sauce
3½ tbsp finely grated palm sugar or
caster sugar
300 ml water
2 small garlic cloves, smashed
Juice of 3 limes
4 red birdseye chillies, finely chopped
1 lemongrass stem, white part only,
finely chopped
80 ml (3 cups) rice vinegar

1 To make nuoc cham, combine fish
sauce, sugar, water and garlic in a small
bowl and stir to dissolve sugar. Add
remaining ingredients and set aside
to infuse until required.
2 Add enough water to just cover
chicken (but don’t add chicken yet) to
a saucepan, with a splash of fish sauce.
Bring to a simmer over medium heat,
then add chicken. Reduce heat to low
and poach, with water not moving, for
10 minutes. Turn off heat and stand for
10 minutes. Remove chicken, then rest
for a few minutes before slicing.
3 Meanwhile, slice cheeks off mangoes.
Cut flesh into a checkerboard pattern,
then cut each cheek into quarters. Dress
on a serving plate to catch all the juices
– sprinkle with red chilli, splash on some
fish sauce and squeeze over lime juice.
4 Cook noodles as per packet
instructions, then refresh in cold water
and cut into shorter lengths.
5 Add noodles to a bowl with oil and
1½ tbsp fish sauce, then toss to combine.
Pile on a serving plate, then arrange
chicken and prawns next to noodles.
6 Add salad ingredients to a bowl.
Dress with a little of the nuoc cham
and toss. Pile salad next to noodles and
chicken. Spoon nuoc cham generously
over everything, then scatter over
peanuts. Serve with remaining nuoc
cham, and lime cheeks on the side.

Soba noodles with
avocado, sprouts,
umeboshi and sesame
SERVES 2

“I love this combination: the crunchy
life-giving sprouts, nutty buckwheat
noodles and rich avocado, anointed
with the salty and sour tang of the
umeboshi plum and sesame dressing,
is just divine,” says Martini.

125 gm buckwheat soba noodles
1 avocado, flesh diced
4 spring onions, white part only, finely
sliced
Handful of baby pea shoots
Handful of mung bean sprouts
Handful of lentil sprouts
Gomashio, to serve (see note), or
3 tbsp sesame seeds
UMEBOSHI AND SESAME DRESSING

2½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp umeboshi purée
Juice of ½ lemon
½ tsp sesame oil
¼ garlic clove, finely chopped

1 Add dressing ingredients to a small
bowl and combine well.
2 Cook noodles in boiling salted water
for 5 minutes, then drain and refresh
under cold water. Drain well, then coat
noodles with half of the dressing.
3 Pile noodles into serving bowls, then
scatter with avocado, spring onion, pea
shoots, and mung bean and lentil
sprouts. Top with a few shakes of
gomashio, spoon remaining dressing
over and serve.
Note Gomashio, a dry condiment made
from unhulled sesame seeds, is available
from Japanese grocers. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

103

Pea salad with golden
garlic, Sichuan pepper
and ginger dressing
SERVES 4-6

“It’s a joy to make a salad of tender
young green vegetables, highlighting
the sweet seasonal harvest with little
or no cooking. This salad features all
three common pea varieties, pitching
their verdant freshness against a spike
of chilli,” says Martini.

150 gm snow peas
150 gm sugarsnap peas, split
lengthways
150 gm (1 cup) fresh peas
2 handfuls of snow pea sprouts
2 handfuls of micro coriander, or mint,
shiso or chives
1½ tbsp toasted sesame seeds
GOLDEN GARLIC, SICHUAN PEPPER AND
GINGER DRESSING

5
100
4
2
1
2½
2½
5

This extract from
Cook by Karen Martini
(Hardie Grant, $100) has
been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.

104

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

garlic cloves, finely sliced
ml extra-virgin olive oil
long red chillies, sliced on an angle
tsp Sichuan peppercorns, lightly
toasted, then ground
tsp sesame oil
tbsp soy sauce
tbsp black vinegar
cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
finely grated

1 To make dressing, combine garlic and
olive oil in a small saucepan and slowly
bring to a gentle simmer over a very low
heat. Once garlic is lightly golden, stir
through chilli, then lift garlic and chilli
from oil with a slotted spoon, drain on
paper towel and set aside. Add Sichuan
pepper and sesame oil to warm oil, then
cool for 2 minutes before stirring in soy
sauce, vinegar and ginger.
2 Blanch snow peas and sugarsnaps
in boiling salted water for 30 seconds.
Add peas, cook for 10 seconds, then
drain all greens. Immediately refresh
in iced water, then drain again.
3 Pile greens onto a serving plate and
top with snow pea sprouts. Sprinkle
with crisp garlic and chilli and spoon
dressing over. Scatter with coriander
and sesame seeds to finish. 

AWAR DE D 5 S TA RS

F O R I N N O VAT I O N E X C E L L E N C E

SM EG G A LI LEO
M ULTI -CO OK IN G TECHN OL OGY
T HE F UTU R E OF CO OK I NG
Confidence to explore.

smeg.com.au/innovationexcellence

h
t
e
d
e
e
F

Salmon rice bowl
with pickles and
ponzu

MOOD

p

JULIA BUSUTTIL NISHIMURA shares dishes that evoke memories of
travel, occasion and mood in her new book Around the Table.

108

Mushroom gyoza
with seasoned
bean sprouts

p

110

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

107

T

his book, Around the Table, encapsulates how
I think about food. While the seasons always
underpin my choices at the market and in the
kitchen, I am also very much guided by mood,
feelings and memories.
I have the fondest memory from the last time I was in
Rome. I was sitting outside with a friend at a restaurant
in the Jewish Quarter; the surrounding walls dusky peach
and covered in ivy. Our little white linen-covered table
dappled with light that streamed through between the large,
white umbrellas. We ate carciofi alla giudia (Roman-Jewish
artichokes), spaghetti alla carbonara and tiny Alpine
strawberries with lemon and sugar.
Then there is the scent of shokupan baking and the
memories it brings. If I close my eyes, I am standing in
Tokyo early in the morning. I can see the baker unloading
the ovens at our favourite bakery.
A midweek meal thrown together to feed hungry
mouths, a bowl of warming soup on a cold day or a quick
and refreshing salad when it’s too hot to cook. Even the
simplest things, over time, attach themselves to memories
and feelings, which only get stronger as you come around
the table, day after day.

Salmon rice bowl with pickles and ponzu
SERVES 4

“This is the kind of dish I crave after a busy week – it’s fresh, nourishing and relatively quick to put together. You can dial it up
by making the pickles yourself, or just lean into a more vinegary dressing on the vegetables to give the bowl that much-needed
sharpness,” says Busuttil Nishimura. Pictured p106

500 gm skin-on king salmon fillet,
pin-boned and cut into 4 even pieces
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
150 gm sugar snap peas
1 bunch broccolini
2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
Steamed Japanese short-grain rice
(such as koshihikari), toasted sesame
seeds and finely sliced spring onion,
to serve
RADISH PICKLES

8
1
100
100

radishes, quartered
tsp coriander seeds
gm caster sugar
ml grain vinegar (see note p109)
PONZU DRESSING

3 tbsp light soy sauce
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 garlic clove, finely grated

1 To make radish pickles, place radish
in a jar or non-reactive container with
coriander seeds. Combine sugar, vinegar
and 2½ tbsp water in a small saucepan
and bring to the boil over high heat,
stirring to dissolve sugar. As soon as
sugar has dissolved, remove from heat
and pour liquid over radishes. Allow to
cool completely.
2 Coat salmon in olive oil and season
well with salt. Heat a frying pan over high
heat and cook salmon, skin-side down,
for 2-3 minutes. Flip salmon over and
continue to cook for a further 2 minutes,
then flip fillets onto their sides and cook
each side briefly until starting to colour.
Remove from heat.
3 Meanwhile, blanch sugar snap peas
in a saucepan of boiling water for 1-1½

minutes, then remove with a slotted
spoon and transfer to a bowl, reserving
cooking water.
4 Blanch broccolini in boiling water for
2-3 minutes, then drain and cut into 4cm
lengths. Transfer to bowl with sugar snap
peas then add sesame oil and toss to coat.
5 To make ponzu dressing, combine all
ingredients in a small bowl.
6 To serve, spoon steamed rice into four
bowls. Top each bowl with salmon, sugar
snap peas and radish pickles. Pour over
ponzu dressing, then finish with sesame
seeds and spring onion.

Cold udon with pork
and cucumber
SERVES 4

“While I shouldn’t play favourites, udon
is probably my preferred noodle. They
are so chewy, satisfying and incredibly
comforting,” says Busuttil Nishimura.

“While the seasons always
underpin my choices in
the kitchen, I am also very
much guided by mood,
feelings and memories.”

3 tbsp toasted sesame oil, plus extra
to serve
100 ml chicken stock
400 gm frozen udon noodles
2 Lebanese cucumbers, coarsely
chopped
3 radishes, julienned
Finely sliced spring onion, to serve
Toasted sesame seeds, to serve
Soy sauce, to serve
Mustard leaves, to serve (optional)
MARINATED PORK

500
3
3
3
3
2
3
2

This extract from Around
the Table by Julia Busuttil
Nishimura (Plum, $44.99)
has been reproduced with
minor GT style edits.

gm minced pork
garlic cloves, finely grated
tbsp light soy sauce
tbsp mirin
tbsp saké
tbsp grain vinegar (see note)
tbsp white miso
tsp caster sugar

1 To make marinated pork, place all
the ingredients in a bowl and mix
well to combine. Marinate for at least
30 minutes or overnight in the fridge.
2 Heat a wok or large frying pan over
high heat. When it is very hot, add
sesame oil followed by marinated pork.
Flatten pork with a wooden spoon,
then leave it alone until the underside
of the mince is nice and golden. Break
up mince with spoon, then add stock
and continue to cook for a further
3 minutes or until cooked through.
3 Cook udon noodles according to
packet instructions, then drain and rinse
under cold running water. Divide noodles
among four bowls and top with minced
pork, cucumber, radish, spring onion and
sesame seeds. Serve with soy sauce,
extra sesame oil and mustard leaves.
Note Grain vinegar (kokumotsu su) is
a moderately acidic Japanese vinegar
made from a mixture of grains such as
wheat, corn, saké lees and rice. It is
available from Japanese grocers and
select supermarkets. If unavailable,
use rice vinegar instead. ➤
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

109

Mushroom gyoza with seasoned bean sprouts
SERVES 4-6

“These gyoza are filled with mushroom, cabbage and tofu, along with the all-important garlic chives, which add so much brightness.
I like to use fresh oyster and shiitake mushrooms, but king brown is also good for texture,” says Busuttil Nishimura. Pictured p107

80 ml (⅓ cup) vegetable oil, plus extra
for frying
400 gm mixed mushrooms, finely chopped
½ bunch garlic chives, finely chopped
6 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in
hot water for 2 hours, drained and
finely chopped
450 gm white cabbage, finely chopped
450 gm firm tofu
4 cm (about 20gm) piece of ginger,
peeled and finely grated
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 tbsp sesame oil
3 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp cornflour
500 gm gyoza wrappers (about 45)
Shichimi togarashi, to serve (see note)
SOY AND VINEGAR DIPPING SAUCE

3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp rice vinegar
SEASONED BEAN SPROUTS

250
40
2
1
1
1

gm bean sprouts
gm (¼ cup) toasted sesame seeds
tbsp soy sauce
tsp caster sugar
tbsp sesame oil
tbsp saké

1 Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan
over high heat; add mixed mushrooms.
Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes,
until soft and beginning to colour. Add
garlic chives and cook for a further
2 minutes or until deep green in colour.
Add to a bowl with chopped shiitake.
2 Add remaining oil to pan then add
cabbage. Cook for 2-3 minutes until
beginning to soften. Add to mushrooms.
3 Remove excess moisture from tofu by
placing it in a muslin cloth or clean linen
cloth and squeezing to remove liquid.
Crumble dry tofu into mushroom mixture.
Add ginger, garlic, sesame oil, soy sauce
and cornflour and season to taste with salt
and white pepper. Gently mix to combine.
4 Line a tray with baking paper and fill
a small bowl with water. Hold a gyoza
wrapper in one hand and place about
a tablespoon of mixture in centre. Dip
a finger in the bowl of water and use it
to dampen around edge of the gyoza
wrapper. Fold wrapper to lightly envelope
mixture, as if holding a taco. Using both
hands, make small pleats along edges,
from one end to the other, until completely
sealed. Place dumpling on tray and repeat
with remaining wrappers and mixture.

5 To make dipping sauce, combine
ingredients in a small bowl.
6 To make seasoned bean sprouts,
blanch sprouts in a saucepan of boiling
water for 3-4 minutes. Drain well, then
transfer to a bowl, add remaining
ingredients and toss to combine. Check
seasoning and add salt, if needed.
7 Working in batches (or with multiple
frying pans), heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in
a heavy-based frying pan over mediumhigh heat. Add gyoza in a single layer,
fairly tightly packed and flat-side down.
Add 200ml water to pan (be careful as it
will bubble) and cover immediately with
a lid. Steam gyoza for 5-7 minutes, until
cooked through. If water has evaporated
and gyoza aren’t quite cooked, add a little
more water, return lid to pan and continue
cooking. If there is still water in pan and
gyoza are fully cooked, remove lid and let
water evaporate. Pour another tablespoon
of oil into base of pan and cook gyoza,
without lid on, for another 2-3 minutes,
until crisp and golden on the base. Serve
gyoza with the dipping sauce, seasoned
bean sprouts and shichimi togarashi.
Note Schichimi togarashi, a chilli spice
blend, is available from Asian grocers.

Temakizushi
SERVES 4-6

“For us at home, this is a rather celebratory meal and something that brings us all together,” says Busuttil Nishimura.

440 gm (2 cups) Japanese short-grain rice
(such as koshihikari)
Quartered nori sheets, shredded
daikon, soy sauce, wasabi and
pickled ginger, to serve
SUSHI VINEGAR

100 ml grain vinegar (see note p109)
25 gm caster sugar
10 gm sea salt
SUGGESTED FILLINGS

Assortment of vegetables of your
choice (such as cucumber, avocado,
radish sprouts, mizuna)
Assortment of sashimi-grade fish,
such as salmon, tuna or kingfish
Salmon roe, uni (sea urchin roe), and
tamagoyaki (rolled omelette)
110

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Wash rice to remove excess starch;
drain well. Place rice in a large saucepan
or a stovetop rice cooker, add 560ml
(2¼ cups) water and bring to the boil
over high heat. Cooking time will depend
on the pot you are using but, generally
speaking, boil the rice for 3-4 minutes,
then reduce heat to low, cover and cook
for a further 10-12 minutes, until there is
no more water visible (rice should still be
quite wet-looking). Take pot off the heat
and stand, covered, for 20 minutes.
2 While rice is standing, make sushi
vinegar by combining ingredients in
a small saucepan over medium heat.
Heat until sugar and salt are dissolved,
then remove from heat and allow to cool.

3 Transfer rice to a large bowl and
sprinkle over sushi vinegar. Using a rice
spoon or a spatula, mix sushi vinegar
through rice until evenly distributed.
This also helps cool rice. Cover rice
with a damp clean tea towel.
4 Prepare vegetables by cutting them
into matchsticks, if needed. Any leafy
greens can simply be washed. Slice
fish into bite-sized sashimi or batons,
then place everything neatly on a platter,
with shredded daikon. Place salmon roe,
uni and tamagoyaki in small bowls.
5 To assemble, take a square of nori,
add rice and your choice of fillings, then
roll into a cone and serve with soy sauce,
wasabi and pickled ginger. 

Orange
Wine Festival
30 Sept – 31 Oct 2022
Signature Events
30

September

Orange Wine Festival Night Market

7-9

October

Orange@Home Weekend

7-9

October

The Vintners Table

22

October

Orange Wine Show Tasting & Masterclasses

28-30

October

Vino Express

29

October

Altitude

Scan the QR
Code for more
information and
to book tickets.

TRAVEL
OCTOBER

Inner sanctum

Why Soho House is taking over the world,
service abroad, a chef ’s guide to Lima, and
elevated hotel dining arrives in Queenstown.

Soho House,
Tel Aviv

p

114

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

113

SOHO
effect
HOUSE
The

It may be aloof and oh so cool but the impact
of the creative-industry members’ club model
is undeniable. WINNIE STUBBS examines
the universal appeal of shared identity.

The pool bar at
Soho House Tel
Aviv, Jaffa.
Opposite:
poolside at Soho
House Tel Aviv.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

115

From left: Soho House
Rome’s façade; the
rooftop of Holloway
House in West
Hollywood.

For those of us who have spent the
past two pandemic-ridden years locked
within Australia’s walls, Soho House
represents an interconnected world.

I

n September 1998, Nick Jones – founder of the Soho
House hospitality group – met Kirsty Young, radio
presenter and sweetheart of the British media
establishment. A year later, the pair were married in
the very same place they’d met a year prior: a Grade II listed
Georgian manor house turned hotel and private members
club in the English countryside.
Babington House is just one of Jones’s shamelessly exclusive
properties, and the story of his and Young’s meet cute is
a poetic (and entirely unsurprising) example of the Soho House
group’s aspirational anatomy. Since its inception in 1995, the
collection of hotels and private members’ clubs has served as
a global playground for the creative elite – a series of masterfully
designed, boldly beautiful spaces, and a membership model that
acts as certification of social relevance.
Of course, such an exclusive model is not without its foibles,
but I am opting to leave discussion of self-perpetuating social
inequality and problematic privilege to less easily enchanted
commentators. What I would like to offer instead is an unfettered
ode to the existence of this glamorous, inaccessible universe.
Soho House itself might be an artefact of privilege, but its
story is one of ambition and creativity. Jones began his career
in hospitality straight out of school, working every role from
washing dishes to serving cocktails at Brown’s: a five-star hotel
in London’s Mayfair. At just 22 he established his own
restaurant group Over the Top, and 22 years after opening the
first outpost of Soho House, he was appointed a Member of
the Order of the British Empire (MBE) for services to the
hospitality industry.
For those of us who have spent the past two pandemicridden years locked within Australia’s walls, Soho House
represents an interconnected world filled with possibility.
It’s the smart lick of skis through powder on a perfect bluebird
day. It’s locked eyes across a crowded bar – a smile that lasts
a second too long. It’s the ephemeral excitement of a Friday
night when – if only for a fleeting moment – anything is
possible. Or perhaps it’s not. And perhaps it’s all a beautiful
façade. And perhaps that’s the magic of it. ➤

Clockwise from above: a quiet corner at
Holloway House’s Club; inside the Coach
House at Babington House in Somerset;
the grounds at Babington House.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

117

What can’t be denied is the allure of this carefully
constructed creative community – the idea that in
handsome designer spaces across cities and continents, the
world’s indie-elite are meeting and mixing and indulging in
the intoxicating fizz of shared identity. The sexy something
that hotel guests lust after and hoteliers seek to emanate
isn’t tangible. It’s not the rooftop pools or low-lit Martini
bars, it’s the promise of belonging.
This year alone the brand has launched in the
Grenadines, Brighton Beach, a second location in West
Hollywood and they have slated openings in Bangkok,
Stockholm and a second Miami location. The influence
of Jones’s empire is evident not just through the growth of
the brand itself, which comprises more than 30 properties
globally but from the way it’s shaped the hotel landscape
the world over. In London alone, nods to the “creative
members’ club” model can be seen at boutique hotels
including The Hoxton, The Zetter, Chiltern Firehouse
and Chateau Denmark, to name a few.
“For the creative and the curious” reads the tagline
of London’s newest boutique hotel and members club
The Twenty Two. This statement tells us nothing about
the hotel itself, and everything about the person we might
118

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

hope to become by staying there. After the unwelcome
realisation that the experiences we thought formed us
can be taken away in an instant, the desire for a collective
identity is more pronounced than ever. And the hotel
industry – buoyed by Soho House’s success – is offering
a collective identity that comes with certified creative
excellence included.
A 19th century South Yarra mansion is tipped to be
the location of the brand’s first Australian outpost. And
in Sydney, whispers are circulating about a possible site
in Surry Hills. Officially there is nothing to report at this
point, but the rumours retain the essence of Soho House:
an elusive invitation to the world’s most coveted party. 

PHOTOGRAPHY ENGIN AYDENIZ (ISTANBUL).

Clockwise from right: cocktail hour
at Soho House Tel Aviv’s Club;
and its alfresco pool bar; Soho House
Istanbul in the Beyoğlu district;
orange syrup cake with citrus sorbet
at Soho House Istanbul.

THE TASTE
OF TRAVEL
TO EXPERIENCE UP-CLOSE THE
CULINARY DELIGHTS OF LOCAL
CULTURES, TAKE A DISCOVERY
TOUR WITH OCEANIA CRUISES
The best type of travel fully immerses you in
different cultures, stimulating and engaging all
of the senses. That's why, amidst the opulence of
Oceania Cruises' luxury small ships, gastronomy
lovers can enjoy The Finest Cuisine at Sea®. The
Culinary Center is the only hands-on cooking
school at sea and is the pride and joy of Executive
Chef & Director of Culinary Enrichment, Chef
Kathryn Kelly. Her guests “put on an apron and
for two hours are up to their elbows in pasta, knife
work, regional recipes and culinary techniques …
it’s a special experience,” she says.
While the ship is in port the tastebuds can
travel even further afield with Culinary Discovery
Tours, offering the chance to experience the local
cuisine at a truly personal level. Chef Kathryn
created the concept after “guests started asking me
where I would go in various ports. I started taking
them with me to local markets and my favourite
places.” Each culinary tour, custom created for its
location, often includes a seat at the dining table
of local families. It may guide you through the
Buenos Aires markets to select the freshest cuts or
catch before enjoying dinner in a friendly nearby
home, or it may lead you to a private degustation
lunch in Catania, Italy. Showcasing time-honoured
techniques in a Dubrovnik family's olive press
room? Picking cucumbers from a Corfiot family
farm in Greece? Fishing for fresh seafood with the
natives in Portofino, Italy? Turning sheep's milk
into cheese on a farm in Bilbao, Spain? The only
guarantee is discovery, delight and deliciousness.
Learn more about what's on offer for taste-focused
travellers at www.oceaniacruises.com/culinary.

The art of travel

The art of…
surviving service
abroad

T

his week I’m in Sligo, a harbour town on
the west coast of Ireland. “Get back into
sailing” was one of my mid-lockdown vows
that I made last year. And so I’m doing
a sailing course, and sleeping at a B&B so traditional
that the “Vegetarian Breakfast” is “fried breaded
plaice with mushrooms, tomatoes and beans”.
For snarky international food writers like myself,
a non-vegetarian “vegetarian” dish is like sighting
a rare bird species. Just when we fear such menu
items are extinct – wiped out by haloumi, avocado,
pulled jackfruit and portobello mushrooms – an
avid spotter glimpses a “vegetarian” ham salad in
Galicia, or a “vegetarian” bacon quiche in South
Carolina, evidence that there remain corners of the
world oblivious to the global food trends of the past
four decades. I call in this culturally significant find
to fellow food nerds, and order a Full Irish Breakfast.
My refresher course in Irish service commences.
It’s been years since I’ve holidayed in my
homeland. I’d forgotten that good service in Ireland
amounts to constant interrogation. “Are you okay?”
Geraldine barks every time she strides past my table,
which is often, because she is on her way to other
tables to bark, “Are you okay?” These aggressive
enquiries are not delivered with a smile; any sign of
mirth might suggest one is not taking the quantity
of toast on a guest’s table seriously. Irish hospitality
is sincere and warm; so sincere it is scary, so warm
it is heated. Geraldine patrols the room with all the
gravity of a harried yet stoic wartime field hospital
matron, so at least if I choke on my toast after an,
“Are you okay?” ambush, I’ll be safe. In between my
nods of approbation and compliments to the toast,
I wonder how we wound up this way. Is overbearing
Irish hospitality some trauma hangover from the
Potato Famine?

120

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Admittedly, there has been a backlash among
younger generations of hospitality workers, and
service in Belfast’s hot-ticket restaurants in the
Cathedral Quarter is vehemently laidback.
When any Irish kid returns from Melbourne,
Sydney or Auckland, we wax lyrical about the
relaxed cafés and restaurants; service that is
attentive without being alarming. Cooks, baristas
and restaurateurs try to import this relaxed vibe
home, but the truth is that restaurant service
travels less well than recipes.
Globally, we’ve agreed on what a good steak
tartare, flat white or Negroni tastes like. But we’ve
not really settled on a gold international standard
for service, unless you’re in McDonald’s.
This is why TripAdvisor is awash with angry
reviews from first-time visitors about bad service.
It is why restaurant service is one thing I refuse to
rate when abroad. As a visitor, I don’t know enough
about the customs, culinary scene, manners,
socio-political undercurrents to judge something as
nuanced as good manners. I trust my tastebuds to
tell me a dish is good, but I don’t trust my touristy
mind to tell me when restaurant service is bad.
I assume the best of intentions, and enjoy the ride.
In Rome recently, a friend warned, “Waiters in
Rome care about serving delicious food; they don’t
care about pretending to like you.” His words proved
helpful; there were moments I feared a seemingly
furious waiter had mistaken me for his adversary,
and yet when he watched me devouring cacio e pepe,
he beamed like a proud mother. “Delizioso?”
Now in Sligo, I’m smiling at Geraldine,
imagining that Roman waiter in Ireland, being fed
vegetarian fish and forced to say how amazing it is.
Who can say whether his hospitality or Geraldine’s is
better? Not me, and I don’t want this ever to change. 

Anna is a travel
and lifestyle
journalist, and
author of the
travel memoir
Departures.
@annadothart

ILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES.

There is no international agreement on good
restaurant service, so buckle up and always
assume the best, says ANNA HART.

JORGE CHAVEZ
INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT
BASILICA Y CONVENTO DE
SAN FRANCISCO DE LIMA

L IM A
MUSEO LARCO

Astrid y Gastón
SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN

La Mar

Maido

Awicha
Ciclos Café

Isolina
Mérito

A CHEF’S GUIDE TO...

Lima, Peru
When she’s not behind the pans at
acclaimed restaurant Kjolle, you’ll find
top chef PÍA LEÓN at these city hotspots.

My favourite restaurant in Lima is Maido.
Chef Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura is a close
friend, so I feel at home every time I visit.
He cooks Nikkei cuisine, which is Peruvian
ingredients cooked with Japanese technique.
The seco de cabrito – baby lamb and canario
bean – dumplings are excellent. Don’t miss
the sea urchin kamameshi rice or the crudos,
which are all impeccable.

TH E B E ST C E VI CH E IN L I M A

A

t her acclaimed restaurant Kjolle, chef Pía León – named 2021
World’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
– serves ingredients that reflect the biodiversity of Peru: citrus
from the Amazon rainforest, tubers from the Andes mountains,
Sacred Valley pork and prized sea urchin from the country’s northern
coastlines. The chef and mother has also been instrumental in the success
of three-time Latin America’s Best Restaurant, Central, where she worked
alongside husband Virgilio Martínez for 10 years. León’s recommendations
on where to eat and drink in the Peruvian capital are as diverse as the
country’s landscapes and culture.

You can’t visit Lima without eating ceviche
at La Mar. We go for the hospitality, the
freshness and the amazing quality of
products used. We always order the catchof-the-day ceviche, the ceviche with erizo
(Peruvian sea urchins) and the shrimp causa
– a cylinder of whipped potato topped with
shrimp that’s creamy and has just the right
amount of acidity. The pasta alle vongole
with lime and chilli pepper is also a favourite.

A PE R U VI A N I NSTI TU T IO N
Clockwise from
left: octopus
tentacles at
Kjolle; inside
Kjolle’s dining
room. Opposite,
clockwise from
top right:
Central’s Alturas
Mater tasting
menu; Mérito’s
dining room.

Astrid y Gastón is one of the best restaurants
in the city. Since the restaurant opened
in 1994, it has represented Peruvian
gastronomy and has initiated a movement
of appreciation and respect for Peruvian
ingredients. Astrid y Gastón is directed by
chef Gastón Acurio – who is a chef we all
admire – and pastry chef Astrid Gutsche.
Astrid has dedicated her life to researching
Peruvian cacao, which of course is featured
heavily on the dessert menu.

PHOTOGRAPHY CESAR DEL RÍO (KJOLLE DISH), KEN MOTOHASI (KJOLLE INTERIOR & CENTRAL) & GUSTAVO VIVANCO (LEÓN).

TH E H OM E O F NI K KE I CU IS I NE

A chef ’s guide

S P E C IA LT Y C O FF EE ,
C HO C O L AT E A N D C OC KTAIL S
Locals love going to specialty coffee
shop Ciclos Café. The coffees are made
with different extraction methods and an
array of Peruvian coffee beans roasted
by expert Felipe Aliaga. Upstairs you
can find the best chocolate in Peru at
El Cacaotal. It’s directed by Amanda Jo
Wildey, an anthropologist dedicated to
finding the best quality cacao beans in
the country and building relationships
with growers. If you visit, be sure to do
a chocolate tasting. Another local
favourite is Lady Bee, a cocktail bar in
Miraflores that uses ingredients from
all over the Peruvian territory.

W H EN I ’ M N OT IN T H E KI TCH EN
When I have time off and want to relax,
I go to Isolina. It’s a great place to try
criolla food, or traditional Peruvian
comfort food. The menu is family-style
with generous dishes like tripe and
fried blood stew or black bean tacu
tacu (Peruvian beans and rice) with
liver and onions. The ceviche here
is also incredible. I also love going to
El Mercado by chef Rafael Osterling.
The restaurant has a great, casual vibe
and the seafood dishes are fantastic.

FOOD YOU CAN’T FIND
AN Y WH ERE EL S E
If I have something to celebrate, I go
to Mérito. Chef Juan Luis Martínez,
who used to work with us at Central,
is a great friend and super talented.
He’s Venezuelan and so the food he
cooks is a mix of Venezuelan and
Peruvian cuisine. It’s really exciting
food that you can’t find anywhere
else. The restaurant is small and cosy.
It’s a very comfortable place to dine.

A YO UN G C H EF TO WATC H
Chef Jason Roman is a young, talented
chef with a clear vision. His restaurant
Awicha is under-the-radar, but one that
people should visit. Jason is a thirdgeneration chef, and his cooking is
inspired by the food he ate growing
up. The dishes are very comforting,
and the restaurant is just as warm and
super easy-going.

PE R U ’S B E ST P R O D U CE
The Sunday farmer’s market in Barranco
is a really nice experience. It has an
incredible selection of producers,
growers and artisanal products from
different parts of Peru. You can also
find amazing fresh produce at Agrofili,
a fruit and vegetable store. Bayas
Peruanas offers a variety of berries
from the high Andes. 

As told to Jessica Rigg for
The Local Tongue. For more
chef’s guides from around the
world, see thelocaltongue.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

123

THE
A new arrival to Queenstown is
changing attitudes to hotel dining.
JOANNA HUNKIN visits Oro at The Carlin.

TOUCH
124

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY KATE ROBERGE.

G O L D E N

A

PHOTOGRAPHY KONRAD KASISKE.

plume of sweet smoke rises to meet me, silently
swirling as it escapes its glass cloche, which has
just been lifted with a theatrical flourish to
In the kitchen, executive chef Thomas Barta and head
reveal a generous, thick finger of Ora king
chef Yann Robert have both worked in Michelin-starred
salmon below.
restaurants in Europe, with Barta working under Gordon
The fish, raised about 600 kilometres away in New
Ramsay at Claridge’s for two years. More recently, he was
Zealand’s Marlborough Sounds and delivered fresh this
executive chef at Queenstown’s Botswana Butchery, while
morning, has been lightly cured in citrus and comes served
Robert worked alongside Vaughan Mabee at Amisfield –
with delicate spheres of pickled apple and paper-thin slices
one of the country’s most acclaimed restaurants.
of radish. Alongside it, sits a near-translucent scampi tail
The fact both left those posts to take on the challenge
that has met but the briefest kiss with a grill.
of Oro is intriguing. Much like Australia, hotel dining is
This is Oro, New Zealand’s newest fine-diner
typically overlooked by locals in New Zealand. Unlike
and the most-talked about new
other parts of the world, where hotel
Antipodeans
have
an
restaurant in Queenstown. It’s an
restaurants are regularly the scene of
almost inherent distrust of Friday night dinners and poolside
impressive achievement by any
standard but even more so given
hotel dining. They dismiss brunches, Antipodeans have an almost
this particular establishment lives
inherent distrust of hotel dining. They
it
as
bland
and
mediocre.
inside a hotel; The Carlin, to be exact,
dismiss it – sometimes fairly – as bland
a luxury boutique hotel that sits high
and mediocre; designed to appease
on the hill behind Queenstown,
jet-lagged travellers but incapable of
overlooking Lake Wakatipu. The Carlin opened in
delivering anything unique or memorable.
March and is on a mission to be New Zealand’s first
Over the years, many have tried to challenge and turn
six-star property. And, as owner Kevin Carlin spells out,
this sentiment, with varying degrees of success. With every
a six-star hotel needs a Michelin star-worthy restaurant
new hotel opening, it seems, comes a press release promising
(worthy is as good as it will ever get as there is no
world-class dining.
Michelin Guide for New Zealand).
Yet Oro is delivering the goods. Its dining room, which
seats 90, is booked out every weekend, turning over two
sittings a night. Even on a Tuesday, the room is bustling
with a mix of hotel guests, locals, and visitors from
neighbouring hotels and properties.
In part, its appeal lies in offering something new and
different. Curiously, for a town built on high-end tourism, ➤

The Carlin’s Lake
Wakatipu view.
Opposite page:
Valrhona dark
chocolate
cremeaux at Ora.

Clockwise from
left: lightly cured
citrus-smoked Ora
king salmon
with grilled
scampi tail at Oro;
the dining room;
chef Thomas
Barta.

Queenstown is home to surprisingly few quality
restaurants. And even fewer that serve anything
other than grilled meat. Steak has ruled the town’s
dining scene since it first started luring American
tourists to its ski fields and golf courses in the
early ’90s.
In fairness, Oro does serve steak, which is
carved tableside with the same theatrical flair that
unveiled my salmon earlier. Carlin, whose diverse
background includes several years as a personal chef
to A-list celebrities in the 1980s, enjoys a little
showmanship and razzle-dazzle. On weekends, he
performs piano concerts to the packed dining room.
But it’s what’s on the plate at Oro that’s the
real star of the show. Free-range venison from
Canterbury and lamb from nearby Royalburn
Station hero South Island farmers. Seafood is
line-caught and sustainably raised, flown in daily
from Auckland and Queensland.
“It’s the only place in the country that serves
Moreton Bay bugs,” says Carlin with pride. “We
have them flown over because I used to live near
there and I like them. We get Mooloolaba prawns.”

Traditionally, few restaurants serve seafood
in Queenstown due its landlocked position,
surrounded by towering mountain ranges.
“Getting fresh seafood in this town is
impossible,” explains Carlin, who moved to
New Zealand from California in the 1990s.
“It’s nobody’s fault, it’s just we are nowhere near
the ocean and nobody has gone to the expense
of flying it in until now.”
Despite that expense – and Carlin’s love of
luxury – Oro’s menu offers excellent value for
diners. All but one of the mains is priced under $45
(the whole roasted quail with foie gras is $60), while
the Prime Cuts menu is priced from $40 for 250gm
of venison loin and includes a side of your choice.
That balance of luxury and affordability has
been central to the success of Oro and ensuring
its appeal to the broader community.
“We can’t survive on just 40 guests,” says
Carlin. “We must have the public. We need the
volume to provide the expensive chefs – we have
11 cooks back there, plus a bakery. To justify such
a nice restaurant, we need the public and it needs
to present as more than a hotel restaurant.” 

Each of The Carlin’s eight suites comes with
a lake view, in-room fireplace and outdoor spa
pool. Guests also have access to a butler service
and chauffeur-driven Bentley. Prices start from
$2400 per night. thecarlinhotel.com

126

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY KATE ROBERGE.

S TAY

Carlin enjoys a little showmanship
and razzle-dazzle. On weekends,
he performs piano concerts to
the packed dining room.

DINING IN
Oro isn’t the only hotel restaurant
making a mark on our dining radar.
Here are some other standouts.
PEPPINA at The Tasman, Hobart
Recognised as a finalist for Best New Restaurant
in this year’s Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards,
Peppina has brought big city dining to the Tasmanian
capital. Chef Massimo Mele combines his Italian
heritage with the very best Tasmanian produce,
delighting locals and hotel guests alike.
KILN at Ace Hotel, Sydney
The views alone are worth a visit to Kiln, which sits
on the 18th floor of Ace Hotel Sydney and serves
up sweeping vistas of Surry Hills and beyond.
Pasta maestro Mitch Orr heads up the wood-fired
kitchen, which is poised to be one of Sydney’s
hottest new openings. Downstairs, The Lobby and
Loam have already proven a hit with locals, while
a soon-to-open wine bar will complete Ace’s offering
as a bona fide wining and dining destination.
ESTHER at QT, Auckland
Chef Sean Connolly brought smoky good times to
Auckland with his wood-fired menu of Mediterranean
flavours at Esther, which opened in late 2020 and
proved so popular, the QT team signed him up to
take over their flagship Sydney diner, Gowings.
Following an extensive kitchen renovation this year,
the restaurant reopened in February and has been
feeding the city’s hungry corporate crowd ever since.

PHOTOGRAPHY KONRAD KASISKE.

JAMES STREET at The Calile, Brisbane
Whether it’s breakfast at Hellenika, lunch at Same
Same, or dinner at SK Steak & Oyster, Brisbane’s
Calile Hotel is at the forefront of changing Australian
attitudes to hotel dining. The James Street precinct is
home to some of the country’s best restaurants – but
special mention has to go to Hellenika for catering to
hotel guests from sun up to well after dark, including
poolside service throughout the day.
Views of Lake Wakatipu.
Right: one of The Carlin’s
suites with private balcony.

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping
They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.
1

Executive Retreats is the gateway to
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and throughout the rainforest to provide
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4

Waterford Inspired by the Aran Islands
and handmade at House of Waterford in
Ireland, the Aran Mastercraft collection
showcases the heritage of Irish
craftsmanship in the brilliance of Waterford.
RRP $749, waterfordcrystal.com.au

7

Pukara Estate Recognised amongst
Australia’s finest, Pukara Estate’s Australian
extra virgin olive oils, vinegars, salts and
condiments are distinctively flavoured – the
result of the daily efforts of a passionate
team. RRP $18.50, pukaraestate.com.au

2

Mount Pleasant Wines The 2019 Maurice
O’Shea is unmistakably Hunter Valley.
Medium bodied with fruit to the fore and a
sophisticated palate, it’s brilliantly balanced
with cellaring potential beyond 50 years.
RRP $275, mountpleasantwines.com.au

5

Fhiaba’s range of luxury food and wine
preservation products are now available
in six stunning enamel finishes, like copper,
complementing almost any style of kitchen
from a rustic look to minimalist or
industrial. Visit fhiaba.com.au

8

Winnings Appliances The Ilve Majestic
cooker is a masterpiece in sophistication,
and is now available in a bespoke range
of seven colours with brass, chrome,
bronze or new copper fittings to
personalise your look. winnings.com.au

3

Smeg Elevate your barista skills with
a fully automatic bean-to-cup coffee
machine. It’ll grind, dose and extract an
authentic espresso with enviable crema at
the touch of a button, plus create perfectly
textured milk. RRP $1349, smeg.com.au

6

The Greek Providore sources artisanal
food products from Greece. Ladolea
cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil in
a handcrafted amphora is inspired by
the rich history of the region of Corinthia.
RRP $52, thegreekprovidore.com.au

9

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HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

STYLE

Elevated interiors, what to
wear on a night out,
diamond watches, dewy skin
essentials and artful grinders.

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

Finer things

Home

1

MEMPHIS BELLE

2

The ’80s design movement known for its bold
colours and shapes is staging a comeback.

3

4

5
6

7

PHOTOGRAPHY TIMOTHY KAY (MAIN).

8
9

1 Established & Sons Filigrana Cylinder pendant light, $1190, Living Edge. 2 Nebulae chandelier, $3197, Ross Gardam. 3 Jermaine Gallacher Zigzag steel
candlestick holder, $545, Matches Fashion. 4 Hay Ethan Cook Flat Works rug, $846, Finnish Design Shop. 5 Nebulae wall light, from $586, Ross Gardam.
6 Fierce Lemon large luxury scented soy candle, $89, Ode Australia. 7 Ross Didier Liqueur table, $5620, Didier. 8 Knoll Cesca dining chair, from $1640,
De De Ce. 9 Rufus stripe sculpture, $105, Globe West. ABOVE A dining room designed by Doherty Design Studio.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

133

Home

1

3

2

4

5

6

7

8
9

10

12
13

1 Fisher & Paykel 538L quad door fridge with ice & water dispenser, $3599, Harvey Norman. 2 Drop mirror, $11,015, Poliform. 3 Lambert & Fils Cliff 01 Suspension
Lamp, $3145, Living Edge. 4 HK Living framed relief 3D art panel, $1395, House of Orange. 5 Ethnicraft sculpture, $340, Globe West. 6 Olive Branch soup pot,
$740, Le Creuset. 7 Pesce pitcher, $80, Freedom. 8 Handmade jugs, $60 each, Studio Enti. 9 Celeste Cloud coffee table, $2065, Globe West. 10 Maximum
Venato porcelain panels, from $272 per square metre, Artedomus. 11 Ventura dining chair, $1865, Poliform. 12 Ilve Built-In coffee machine, POA, Ilve. 13 John
Pawson salad servers, $290, Hub Furniture. OPPOSITE PAGE Poliform kitchen by Stafford Architecture.

134

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY TOM FERGUSON.

11

CURVES AHEAD
Fluid shapes and high design values
inspire creativity in the kitchen.

ME

I
NS

P I R AT

IO

N

HO

Style
6
5

4
7

3

Inspired
by

2

8

Hotel Chedi
Andermatt,
Swiss Alps

Evening class
Paint the town orange and dial up the
glamour with a touch of golden sparkle.
9
1

136

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

14

10

13
11

MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

1 Gianvito Rossi Aura metallic leather mules,
$1225, Matches Fashion. 2 Dolce &
Gabbana logo plaque bomber jacket, $1200,
Farfetch. 3 Dior Caro medium bag in Brown
Macrocannage Tweed Embroidery, $5800,
Dior. 4 Cameron velvet jumpsuit, $899, Leo
Lin. 5 Earthly pant in Marigold, $525, Bianca
Spender. 6 Golden Goose belted leopard
print metallic fil coupé chiffon midi
shirtdress, $1184, Net-A-Porter. 7 Michelle
Mason silk asymmetrical gathered gown,
$1949, Farfetch. 8 Audrey dress in Black,
$489, Husk. 9 Ana Khouri Maia diamond
and 18-karat Gold and White Gold ring,
$31,360, Matches Fashion. 10 Chanel
Square sunglasses, $1150, David Jones.
11 D-Renaissance collar necklace, $7100,
Dior. 12 Cortobello shoes, $1695, Christian
Louboutin. 13 Helena top in Marigold,
$495, Bianca Spender. 14 Thom Browne
4-Bar sleeve shirt, $2800, Farfetch.

12

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYING EMMALY STEWART. MERCHANDISING LAUREN DE SOUSA.

Time to shine
Be punctual and chic for your next
dinner date with a show-stopping dial.

Clockwise from top left: Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 in Oystersteel and
Everose Gold, $19,700, and Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in Yellow
Gold, $47,950, Rolex. Tiger’s eye Gem Dior watch in Yellow Gold and
Diamonds, $64,000, Dior. Chanel Première Édition Originale watch,
$9000, Chanel. Tank Louis Cartier in Yellow Gold and black alligator
leather strap, $18,500, Cartier. The Longines Master Collection watch,
$3625, Longines. Big Pilot’s Watch 43, $14,700, IWC.

Beauty

H I G H L I G H T
O I L

H A C K

Makeup artists often
add oils to matte
and full-coverage
foundations to get
A-list clients glowing.
Alpha-H Golden Haze
Face Oil, $70 (1), is up
to the job, plumping
as it goes.

When models “find the light”, the bulk of
the work is performed by the highlighting
formulas on their eye orbit, the cupid’s bow
and bridge of the nose. Try Westman Atelier
Super Loaded Tinted Highlighter, $113 (4).

3

2

R E E L

4

1

M ASK

T HE

WAY

Like an express facial in a jar – or tube –
next generation masks boost bare skin
radiance so dewy makeup goes on
flawlessly. Special mention goes to Susanne
Kaufmann Glow Mask, $114 (2), a gentle
peel. Airyday Night Rain Sleep Mask, $34.95
(3), hydrates and brightens.

5

Luminous skin is in. The lit-from-within look
radiates youth and effortlessness. Here’s how.
7

TH
9
10

6

P R I M E D

B A S E

B O O S T

Rose Inc Skin Enhance Luminous Tinted
Serum, $73 (8), lets a boosted version of
real skin shine through. Step up the
radiant coverage with Giorgio Armani
Luminous Silk foundation, $105 (9), or
Espressoh Ohmyglow Foundation, $51 (10).
138

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

A C I D

8

W A S H

Biologique Recherche
Lotion P50 is a cult favourite
for beauty obsessives. All
because the chemical
exfoliant, $168 (7), induces
unmatched glow.

The difference
between home
makeup application
and a professional
job is usually the
primer; the key to
luminous no-makeup
makeup. Burberry
Beauty Beyond
Radiance Base, $75
(5), and Sisley Instant
Éclat, $115 (6), deliver
a glass-like finish.

WORRDS ANNA McCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

NT ED
I

E

E
IG

T

INTELL

GLOW UP

2

GT team
favourite

Floral
flush

1

These rosy beauty
finds will give you
every reason to blush.

4
3

5

1 A weightless blush for a no-makeup flush. Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Blush, $42, Mecca. 2 Blend in this multistick for a just-pinched effect. Ilia
Multistick in All of Me, $51, Mecca. 3 Nars is revered as the master of powdered blush thanks to its superfine pigments and this palette is one of its best yet.
Nars Afterglow Cheek Palette Limited Edition, $88, Mecca. 4 A fine powder infused with shea butter and hyaluronic acid for buildable, dewy colour. Gucci
Blush De Beauté in 04 Sweet Peach, $83, David Jones. 5 Long-lasting cheekiness. Clarins Joli Blush in Cheeky Pink, $52, Clarins.

Objects of desire

Daily grind

From left: Ado grinder in Natural, $79.95, Country Road. Medium salt and pepper mill in Terracotta, $81, and large salt and pepper mill in Sage
Green, $90, Hay. Menu salt and pepper bottle ceramic grinder in Brushed Brass with Walnut lid, $310 for a pair, Designstuff. Post Box pepper grinder
in Brass, $169, The DEA Store. Menu salt and pepper bottle grinder in Nude with Walnut lid, $169.95 for a pair, Kitchen Warehouse. All other props
stylist’s own.
140

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING AND MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART.

Add a little spice to your life with
a stylish pepper mill designed
for both form and function.

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WA

Si Paradiso
1/446 Beaufort St,
Highgate
si-paradiso.com
Chefs Paul Greenham
& Paul Bentley
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

The Corner Dairy
260 Woodside St,
Doubleview
thecornerdairy.com.au
Chef James Cole
Bowen
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

Just how does one classify this Italianate house of cool? On weekends,
the DJs and energy levels in the amphitheatre out back suggest “nightclub”.
But blessed is the discotheque that pours organically farmed wines, cracking
cocktails and snappy beers. “Bar” also seems like an undersell, considering
the puffy, occasionally maverick pizze – salt cod and XO sauce, anyone?
– ensure Si Paradiso remains one of Perth’s favourite pizzerias. Delve deeper,
and you’ll find the kitchen’s range is wider than benchmark Neapolitan-style
pies. Roasted scallops are bathed in a bitey XO butter. Golden fried calamari
makes sweet music with preserved-lemon aïoli. Gem lettuce showered with
parmesan, fine breadcrumbs and fermented tuna extract coolly rethinks
Caesar salad, while saucy tagliatelle Bolognese is straight Italo-Australian
comfort. Warm, switched-on service and the dining room’s mid-century
stylings are also both wins for the old school. For a more grape-based
experience, set sail for affiliate wine bar, Casa.

AUSTRALIAN

Surprise! Perth’s most polished bar food isn’t found in a wine bar, but in
a lively neighbourhood hangout in upwardly mobile Doubleview. As its
clientele demands, this whitewashed, chocolate-tiled space sits at the more
casual end of the spectrum: you order at the counter, hip front-of-house staff
are as relaxed as their attire, and the drinks list favours good-time beers,
wines and cocktails. Accessibility is also important to chef James Cole
Bowen, an emerging cooking talent fond of using sharp technique to make
the familiar dazzle anew. Long spears of Zuni-style pickles brighten silky
house ricotta; toast anointed with a smoky charcoal-infused mayo freights
elegant beef tartare; XO sauce and deep-fried shallots lend Asian sensibility
to roasted sugarloaf cabbage. The menu might be small, but kitchen smarts
ensure every dish is a winner. Here’s looking at you, Filipino leche flan
topped with a whisky-and-orange-bitters caramel.

Vasse Felix

PHOTOGRAPHY RUSSELL ORD (VASSE FELIX).

ITALIAN

Cnr Tom Cullity Dr
& Caves Rd,
Cowaramup
(08) 9756 5050
vassefelix.com.au
Chef Brendan Pratt
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch daily

AUSTRALIAN

“I will eat whatever you put down in front of me”, insists an enthusiastic diner
at a neighbouring table. Her faith isn’t unfounded. Since opening in the late
’80s, this luxe-casual cellar-door restaurant has been a standard-bearer for
Margaret River dining. Circa 2023, it shows no signs of slowing down. Like
Vasse Felix’s benchmark wines, chef Brendan Pratt’s approach is detailed,
layered and progressive, yet rooted in classical thinking. Roasted Jerusalem
artichokes with burnt lemon oil in a potato-skin broth epitomise earthiness;
sauce ravigote brightens springy snapper boudin blanc; a sharp corn
vinaigrette electrifies rags of fazzoletti pasta draped over corn custard. As
adventurous as the cooking can be, the kitchen never loses sight of the
clientele’s enjoyment. Ditto the enthusiastic staff who are present every step
of the way, right through to a superb send-off in the form of a baked
cheesecake, cleverly set with kombu and showered with grated truffle.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

144

Le Rebelle

FRENCH

676 Beaufort St,
Mount Lawley
(08) 6161 3100
lerebelle.com.au

Rumours that Le Rebelle’s crab toast has its own OnlyFans account are, for
now, unfounded. Why bother, when the spirit dish of Perth’s favourite French
restaurant continues to be plastered all over Instagram? For those smitten
with all things Paris, this clubby, high-volume room delivers – as does the
hefty drinks list stacked with Australian and Old World wines, plus apéritifs,
cocktails and other stalwarts. Like any self-respecting bistro, Le Rebelle has
its signatures – the aforementioned toast; duck frites with béarnaise sauce;
house-made cheese – yet the restless kitchen team ensures regulars always
have new plates to try. Among the more successful menu additions: golden
fritters of fried Gruyère known as Malakoff in French-speaking Switzerland,
and potato rösti crowned with pickled mussels. Crème caramel and chocolate
tart are on-hand to close out the night, as is wine-bar spin-off Bar Rogue
further down Beaufort Street.

Chefs Adam Sayles
& Liam Atkinson
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Fri-Sat;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Madalena’s

Chefs Oscar Holgado
& Adam Rees
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

Breezy Madalena’s redefines what a seafood restaurant can be, starting with
the setting. Rather than buoys, nets and other lazy maritime set dressing,
this earth-toned room leads with indoor plants, a horseshoe-shaped marble
bar and vignettes from the open kitchen. The menu thrills with equally
unexpected turns, from the surprising albeit brilliant deployment of longan
and avocado in the amaebi ceviche, to dainty fried fish scales sharpened
with powdered vinegar. Recently appointed head chef Oscar Holgado might
still be settling in, but imaginative combinations like roasted Jerusalem
artichokes with shaved chestnut indicate he is a talent to watch. Rogue
thinking is also a constant in the cellar, a study in lo-fi winemaking and
drinkability. Easy-going staff gladly offer vino recommendations and steer
guests towards just-set crème caramel. The newly opened upstairs bar,
meanwhile, makes staying for just one more dangerously easy.

Millbrook
Old Chestnut Lane,
Jarrahdale
(08) 9525 5796
millbrook.wine
Chef Justin Wong
Bookings Essential
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Mon

145

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

AUSTRALIAN

A day trip to this Instagram-ready cellar-door restaurant in the Perth Hills
remains one of the west’s finest lunch dates. Best of all, it’s an excursion that
can be enjoyed by all – young and old, omnivore or vegan – as demonstrated
by the diverse crowd that brings this spacious first-floor dining room to life.
This isn’t the place to book if you want avant-garde cooking or out-there
combinations. Here, it’s all about high-definition estate fruit and veg cast in
comforting, largely European-style dishes. A sauce of fermented plums goes
great guns with grilled quail, while multi-coloured roasted beetroot brings
sweetness to braised lentils. Creamed greens with a duck-egg Polonaise
shares billing with hearty roasted pork belly. Desserts in the vein of hefty parfait
slabs with granola and calamansi granita exemplify Millbrook’s amicable style
of hospitality, as do chipper staff, beaut views and easy-drinking wines.

PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA SHAVER (MILLBROOK).

406 South Tce,
South Fremantle
0459 250 952
madalenasbar.com.au

SEAFOOD

WA

Arimia
242 Quininup Rd,
Wilyabrup
(08) 9755 2528
arimia.com.au
Chef Evan Hayter
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

Hear that? A chorus of native bird calls serves as a gentle reminder that
you’re out in the bush. Not that this is isolation for isolation’s sake. Space is
integral to the work of this organically certified, off-grid farm – and Arimia
really is best considered as a farm with a restaurant rather than vice versa.
The property’s very own pork, trout and vegetables are the building blocks
of kaiseki-esque menus that speak (and taste) unmistakably of Australia’s
south-west. Line-caught samson fish, lime and precision-cut cucumber riff
on ceviche. Tagliatelle in a wild-herb sauce makes eating your greens a joy.
Tender grilled rib cap is a shining endorsement for thoughtfully raised cattle.
While the drinks list occasionally roams across the globe – sake and grower
Champagne are offered alongside estate wines – smiley staff and bay leaf
ice-cream with fermented blueberries reiterate Arimia’s home court advantage.

Frui Momento
3478 Caves Rd,
Wilyabrup
(08) 9380 9278
fruimomento.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY SAMUEL HESKETH (HEARTH) & FRANCES ANDRIJICH (FRUI MOMENTO).

Chef Seth James
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Mon

Hearth Restaurant & Lounge
Elizabeth Quay,
1 Barrack St, Perth
(08) 6559 6822
hearthrestaurant.
com.au
Chefs Alberto Cuzzit
& Brian Cole
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

It takes confidence to write a menu with “koshihikari rice, turnip, pumpkin”
as one of (just) three main course options. Then again, Seth James isn’t
a chef short on confidence. Or ideas. So the rice is cooked in a shiitake dashi,
the butter-poached pumpkin cut into micronised cubes, and this next-gen
pilaf is finished tableside with a fermented vegetable broth for maximum
pow. When it comes to more-is-more cooking, Frui Momento’s tightly
composed plates are among the west’s best. “Tagliatelle” dressed in
a rockmelon and chicken sauce is, in fact, strips of finely cut cuttlefish,
while a blood-orange broth is the outré yet inspired match for grilled quail.
Bitter chocolate mousse cloaking stewed pears ends things on a high.
The ambition of the kitchen is matched by the soigné chalet-inspired dining
room, manicured grounds and a heavyweight cellar stacked with global
stars and sharp wines from Larry Cherubino, James’s business partner.

AUSTRALIAN

You’d be hard-pressed to find a more unerring celebration of Western
Australia than Hearth Restaurant. Almost all the food and wine is local, with
bare marble tables and refined décor framing front-row views of Elizabeth
Quay. The focus here might be open-flame cooking, but generous flavours
and a deftness of touch put paid to any thoughts of caveman cooking. Two
fat tentacles of Abrolhos Islands octopus arrive tender and deeply charred,
while dry-aged Wagin duck with smoked duck ham and grilled lettuce gets
a tangy kick from rosella jam. Dellendale Creamery camembert ice-cream
settles the eternal dessert-or-cheese conundrum, with little jubes of tart
strawberry jelly, grilled strawberries and toasted sandalwood nuts. On
a sunny day, a long lunch here is a very fine thing indeed. Charming Hearth
Lounge, meanwhile, works a treat for an apéritif, nightcap or – on another
occasion – standalone dining.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

146

WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
NNER

Lulu La Delizia
5/97 Rokeby Rd,
Subiaco
(08) 9381 2466
lululadelizia.com.au
Chefs James Higgs
& Joel Valvasori
Bookings
Recommended
Price guide $$
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

147

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

ITALIAN

Lulu La Delizia is a neighbourhood restaurant brimming with confidence.
It’s there in the floor team: cheery, enthusiastic and well-versed in the savvy
list of Italo-Australian wines. It’s there in the open kitchen, where chefs have
a knowing way with northern Italian flavours. And it’s there in the cosy dining
room, a high-energy space where diners laugh and joke, smug in the knowledge
they’re eating some of Perth’s best food. Although toothsome pasta is Lulu’s
calling card – think supple potato gnocchi lathered in a spicy oxtail and red
pepper ragù – the small plates are equally formidable. A jagged gnocco fritto
filled with crab is a two-bite marvel. Pan-roasted quail plus grilled bread, pine
nuts and lemon has flavour for days. Tiramisù and sugar-dusted crostoli end
things in more classic territory and are made better still by a glass of grappa,
which staff are all too happy to recommend.

PHOTOGRAPHY J LAJOS VARGA (LULU LA DELIZIA).

STAT E

WI

SA

Ottelia
5 Memorial Dr,
Coonawarra
(08) 8736 3170
ottelia.com.au
Chef Paul Stone
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Mon

CONTEMPORARY

There’s something special about a regional restaurant frequented by the
farmers and grape growers who call the area home. Recent renovations
have enhanced the effortless charm of this family-run establishment, which
is also home to Ottelia Wines. It’s a place where owners John and Melissa
Innes, their daughter Matilda and head chef Paul Stone express their strong
connection to Coonawarra. Stone has an impressive CV behind him (including
Melbourne’s Supernormal) and crafts a thoughtful menu that changes daily.
Highlights range from bite-sized crisp potato skins with skordalia and cured
egg yolk, to revelatory milk-braised tortellini in roasted chicken broth with
sourdough breadcrumbs. The chef’s menu is a whole-table experience worth
exploring and draws upon beautiful ingredients from the property. For a more
casual affair, the sourdough pizze rival anything you’ll find in the city. Genuinely
friendly staff round out what is a wholesome Coonawarra experience.

The Summertown Aristologist

PHOTOGRAPHY JOSIE WITHERS (SUMMERTOWN) & DUY DASH (WATERVALE AND MAXWELL).

1097 Greenhill Rd,
Summertown
0477 410 105
thesummertown
aristologist.com
Chefs Tom Campbell
& Ethan Eadie
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Fri-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

This community-driven, philosophically minded Adelaide Hills restaurant
plays an important role in the burgeoning natural wine scene. Co-owners
and winemakers Anton van Klopper (Lucy M), Jasper Button (Commune of
Buttons) and Aaron Fenwick (Château Comme Ci Comme Ça) curate the
strictly low-intervention cellar, which may be challenging to the uninitiated,
but the team is on hand to educate. In the kitchen, chefs Ethan Eadie and
Tom Campbell are guided by the daily harvest from the restaurant’s organic
Basket Range farm, while lacto-ferments bubble in the background. Start
with unmissable house salumi and ricotta made fresh for each service, then
let the team steer you towards the likes of Māori potatoes with Boston Bay
mussels and cold-smoked samson fish in a kefir cultured butter sauce.
Between the honest cooking and environmentally charged conversations
happening at the communal tables, you’ll be fed in more ways than one.

The Watervale Hotel
37 Main North Rd,
Watervale
watervalehotel.com.au
Chef Nicola Palmer
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and
dinner daily

AUSTRALIAN

The word “epicurean” gets thrown around a lot, but the owners of this
regional pub live and breathe it. When they’re not running the always-busy
establishment, Warrick Duthy and head chef Nicola Palmer can be found at
their home – the organic and biodynamic Penobscot Farm. After extensive
renovations, the venue is now a treasure trove of intimate art-packed rooms,
eclectic private dining spaces and a chef’s table overlooking the kitchen
pass. Then there’s the fire pit, where Palmer can be seen smoking butter
and cooking 1.8-kilogram tomahawk steaks. A six-course dégustation
explores small snacks and hearty dishes, while the shared “Farm Feast”
spotlights lamb from Martindale Farm and Greenslade’s free-range chicken
along with the couple’s own produce. The all-encompassing drinks
selection provides endless possibilities, but why not embrace the local
spirit and spring for a bottle from Duthy’s collection of Clare Valley wines,
complete with enthusiastic commentary?
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

148

Herringbone
72-74 Halifax St,
Adelaide
0428 926 977
herringbonerestaurant.
com.au
Chef Quentin Whittle
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sat;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Magill Estate Restaurant
78 Penfold Rd, Magill
(08) 8301 5551
magillestate
restaurant.com
Chef Scott Huggins
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Nearly 180 years of winemaking history pervade the urban vineyard
surrounding Magill Estate Restaurant, in Adelaide’s leafy suburbs. The
modern dining space is set against the legendary Penfolds winery and has
all the trimmings of fine dining without unnecessary pomp. Executive chef
and director Scott Huggins recently took ownership of the restaurant and
champions exquisite snacks on both his three- and seven-course tasting
menus, including the revered chicken wing stuffed with scallops and lobster
– a fixture on the menu for six years. Local ingredients such as Ferguson
lobster and Adelaide Hills porcini are put on a pedestal. Eyrewoolf abalone
sings next to slow-cooked pork jowl that’s pressed overnight, sliced thin
and skewered: wrap it in potato bread, and savour the result. With Penfolds
wines poured every step of the way, it feels remiss not to dive into the
“Icon and Luxury” pairing, which always includes Grange.

19 Olivers Rd,
McLaren Vale
(08) 8323 8200
maxwellwines.com.au/
restaurant
Chef Fabian Lehmann
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Sat

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

There’s an instant sense of comfort about Herringbone, tucked in a calm,
almost suburban city backstreet. Natural light spills across the spacious
interior, with its whitewashed walls, natural bentwood chairs and glistening
herringbone-tiled bar. A living tree makes for an eye-catching centrepiece
in the adjacent atrium dining space. Yet for all the laid-back charm, it’s
clear the restaurant is powered by razor-sharp talent. Freshly shucked
Smoky Bay oysters with shatta sauce set the tone for an à la carte menu
that pops with colour, energy and occasional Middle Eastern influence.
Both the generosity of dishes and exceptional service make this an ideal
spot for long lunches and dinner with pals who like to share. The signature
slow-roasted lamb shoulder with baharat, baba ghanoush and grilled
lemon tickles the senses and fuels convivial chatter. Top it all off with
fennel seed ice-cream, dark chocolate ganache and candied orange –
it’s a crowd-pleasing (and momentarily conversation-stopping) favourite.

AUSTRALIAN

Maxwell

149

MEDITERRANEAN

AUSTRALIAN

We’re six years into Fabian Lehmann’s tenure at Maxwell, and the German
chef’s love for McLaren Vale has never been clearer. His skilful tasting
menu is driven by relationships forged with local producers and, when the
season is right, boasts mushrooms grown in the estate’s historic limestone
cave. The tone is set from the moment slivers of abalone arrive in their
shells, complemented by vineyard and winery views that provide a glimpse
into the buzz of harvest. Presentation is exquisite. A delicate chicken-skin
tart arrives topped with wispy fried leeks and delicate garlic-flower petals.
Tender crab meat, meanwhile, is concealed by a cute crustacean-shaped
wafer dusted in dried bush cherry. Desserts, like a Davidson’s plum parfait
with grapes poached in the winery’s Silver Hammer shiraz, nod to the
brand that fuels it all. A cellar-door restaurant done right.

SA

Arkhé
127 The Parade,
Norwood
(08) 8330 3300
arkhe.com.au
Chef Jake Kellie
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Tue-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

Chef Jake Kellie mastered the open flame at Singapore’s Burnt Ends and
now has his own buzzy, heritage-listed sandstone space in which to shine.
He has plenty of kit to play with, too, including a three-and-a-half-tonne
wood-burning oven, elevation grills and an open hearth. A coveted seat at
the counter surrounding the kitchen offers a view of the team in full swing.
When Kellie is in the zone, preparing whole turbot, the intensity is fierce.
But the goal here is clearly fun. Flame-licked dishes include bite-sized
duck-liver parfait tartlets that melt in the mouth once teeth crack through
their brûlée surface. Hot, crisp and salty potato hash browns shipping
crème fraîche and Sturia Oscietra caviar, meanwhile, go great guns with
Champagne. Inspired cocktails, like a Pisco Punch flavoured with tepache,
fuel the convivial spirit even further. All up? Straight fire.

Fino Vino
82 Flinders St, Adelaide
(08) 8232 7919
finovino.net.au
Chef David Swain
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

Fugazzi Bar & Dining Room
27 Leigh St, Adelaide
(08) 7089 0350
fugazzi.com.au
Chef Max Sharrad
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and
dinner daily

MEDITERRANEAN

Welcomes don’t get much better than an encounter with exuberant Fino
Vino co-owner Sharon Romeo and the megawatt smile delivered by chef
and business partner David Swain. The Fino story began in Willunga more
than 16 years ago and has grown to encompass their (excellent as ever)
flagship restaurant at Seppeltsfield as well as this bustling CBD haunt.
Where others try with bells and whistles, Fino Vino succeeds with heart.
Swain hits farm-to-plate high notes with directly sourced produce – the
giardiniera, made with a recipe by Romeo’s late father, is a must. Charred
sourdough focaccia begs to be dipped in the lime and pickled chilli dressing
Spencer Gulf prawns, and is a fitting resting spot for kangaroo pastrami
with beetroot and quandong. Chorizo piled high with pickled green tomato
is a masterclass in peasant food for a modern audience. Crema Catalana,
a fixture on the menu since Fino’s early days, still proves a winning finish.

ITALIAN

Energy pulsates through this New York-inspired Italian restaurant all seven
days of the week. That should come as no surprise, of course, this being
Laura and Max Sharrad’s place, which they co-own with hospitality stalwart
Simon Kardachi. A seductive front bar full of dark leather and rich red tones
leads the way to a bright dining room incorporating intimate timber booths,
edgy artwork, charcoal upholstery and marble tables rippled with cobalt
hues. Playful, salty snacks – gnocco fritto with whipped ricotta, or “Roman
Vegemite” soldiers topped with Cantabrian anchovies, butter and lemon –
set the scene for house-made pastas, which are the speciality. Deliberation
can prove tricky, especially when you factor in the likes of a dry-aged
Angus sirloin or crisp-skinned spatchcock with curry-infused butter sauce
and sweetcorn purée. Whether you wrap up with the affogato semifreddo
or a Negroni nightcap matters not – both conclusions are pure fun.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

150

SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
NNER

Restaurant Botanic
Plane Tree Dr
(via Friends’ Gate),
Adelaide
(08) 8223 3526
restaurantbotanic.
com.au
Chef Justin James
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sat

151

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

There’s no ignoring Mother Nature when you’re literally surrounded by
her. Towering plane trees lead the way to this world-class dining space
in the Adelaide Botanic Garden. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of
the seasonally shifting landscape, but it’s hard to beat the vantage from
the sleek, wraparound chef’s table. In the kitchen, chefs dip into jars of
ferments and preserves used in non-alcoholic drinks and across the tasting
menu. There’s drama in the presentation, too. Potato and caviar appear
on a starburst of autumn leaves. Green ants tumble across fresh oysters.
You’re even encouraged to lick the rock on which braised and grilled
abalone rests. Fallen bunya-bunya branches collected from the garden are
roasted, infused in cream and served frozen. Beverage director Marcell
Kustos’s liquid finale is a garden liquor poured over fresh flowers and herbs.
It’s a pitch-perfect sensory experience that revels in exciting flavours.

AUSTRALIAN

PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN VDK (BOTANIC).

STAT E

WI

TA S

Peppina
2b Salamanca Pl,
Hobart
(03) 6240 6053
peppinarestaurant.com
Chef Massimo Mele
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Breakfast, lunch
and dinner daily

Stillwater
2 Bridge Rd,
Launceston
(03) 6331 4153
stillwater.com.au
Chef Craig Will
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Breakfast and
lunch daily;
Dinner Tue-Sat

The Tasman hotel’s signature restaurant, Peppina, lives large in both scale
and ambition. Once part of an 1840s sandstone hospital, the beautiful dining
room is cleverly and cosily divided by a central bar and open kitchen among
booths and trees in brick planters. But really it’s chef Massimo Mele’s modern
Italian menu that’s the drawcard. Dishes marry great Tasmanian produce with
rustic sophistication; think good salumi, pitch-perfect polpette, swoon-worthy
marinated octopus, and pickled sardines with finely tuned agrodolce. Excellent
house-made pasta, meanwhile, might be tossed with crayfish or a brilliant
combo of cavolo nero, lemon, chilli and pecorino. Then there’s a not-too-sweet
torta Caprese that’s a credit to its kind. The Italo-Tasmanian wine list hits all
the smart modern notes at hotel prices, while service combines warmth and
efficiency. Up for a chaser? Check out the hotel’s bar, Mary Mary.

AUSTRALIAN

Exemplary service, outstanding food and the thoughtful renovation of an
historic mill with Tamar River frontage have made Stillwater one of Tasmania’s
best restaurants for more than 20 years. Chef Craig Will’s cuisine-hopping
menu takes inspiration from the island’s bounty, highlighting the homegrown
good stuff from wallaby to truffles, wasabi to cheese. Dishes zig and zag from
wagyu chilli con carne for breakfast to house-made gnocchi dotted with
Tongola goat’s curd for lunch. The reverence for excellent local produce
continues at dinner, where koji-aged Cape Grim eye fillet finds favour alongside
garlic custard, and octopus arrives in a dashi with udon noodles and a slick of
chilli. The wine list, curated by co-owner James Welsh, similarly showcases
Tassie’s finest, benchmarked against great labels from both the mainland
and overseas. Taken as a whole, it’s an experience not to be missed.

Van Bone

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM GIBSON (VAN BONE).

ITALIAN

357 Marion Bay Rd,
Marion Bay
vanbone.com.au
Chef Timothy Hardy
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Mon

AUSTRALIAN

Van Bone exemplifies destination dining, with every mouthful as uniquely
Tasmanian as the stunning coastal views. Tim Hardy cooks almost exclusively
with fire and smoke at this secluded, 20-seat fine-diner while Laura Stucken
gracefully and single-handedly manages the floor. Their hyper-local menu,
with a focus on sustainability and minimal waste, begins in the restaurant’s
garden before branching out to nearby producers – some of whom supply
the restaurant exclusively. Together, the duo details the story behind each of
the 16 dishes that comprise the constantly changing dégustation. They might
include tales of Tassie Gold oysters with pickled foraged rosehip; a grilled
jalapeño from a neighbouring farm sluiced with cider vinegar Hardy made
five years ago, or wood-roasted Pekin duck and a side of golden nugget
pumpkin. The compact wine list sticks to the strictly Tasmanian script,
rounding out what’s quickly become essential Apple Isle dining.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

152

TASMANIA
STAT E

WI

NNER

Fico
151 Macquarie St,
Hobart
(03) 6245 3391
ficofico.net
Chefs Federica
Andrisani
& Oskar Rossi
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sat

ITALIAN

The broader brushstrokes may be Italian, but the details are distinctly
Tasmanian on Fico’s creative, surprising and beautifully executed tasting
menu. Owner-chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi display confidence
and expertise on every plate. Local wasabi tops a perfectly sliced piece of
raw kingfish. A petite piadina is stuffed with muttonbird from Babel Island.
Creamy cacio e pepe risotto brings together the best of both worlds with
native pepperberry and Parmigiano-Reggiano, while squid-ink pappardelle
and charred broccoli are bathed in a velvety oyster emulsion, both mellow and
briny. The wine list treads a similar cross-cultural path, and service in the dining
room – hung with paintings by Rossi’s father, late local artist Tom Samek – is
calm and well paced. It’s a celebration of techniques, flavours and produce
from distinctive family backgrounds, one that embraces the innovative spirit
that makes Hobart’s dining scene one of Australia’s most captivating.

Institut Polaire
1/7 Murray St, Hobart
0432 925 895
institutpolaire.com.au
Chef Gabriela Macedo
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Thu-Sun

153

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

CONTEMPORARY

Institut Polaire has been doing its cold-climate-themed thing since 2018,
an ice-toned, marble and grey-leather showcase for Tasmanian produce as
well as the spirits and wines produced by co-owners Louise Radman and
Nav Singh (Süd Polaire and Domaine Simha, respectively). It’s still doing that –
the signature Süd Polaire Antarctic Martini is non-negotiable – but with chef
Gabriela Macedo (ex-Restaurant Hubert) in the kitchen, the food is now as
focused on flavour as it is on theme. The seasonal six-course set menu is the
best way to experience Macedo’s cooking. Expect fingers of toast topped with
whipped bottarga and salmon roe; wild mushrooms sinking into black-garlic
sabayon; Cape Grim eye fillet with sake-braised Tropea onion, and a wonderfully
sculptural yuzu meringue tart. Factor in Simha's dynamic wines and great
service, and it's little wonder the Polaire experience is hotter than ever.

QLD

Restaurant Labart
8 West St,
Burleigh Heads
(07) 5576 3498
restaurantlabart.com
Chefs Alex Munoz
Labart & Ethan Ferris
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

Yes, you’ve come to the right place – though it may come across more like
a sharp local bistro than a celebrated coastal go-to. But what Labart lacks
in views it makes up for with affable service, snappy lo-fi wines and regional
produce handled with skill. The overarching brief is stylish but accessible,
underlined by green-panelled walls, comfy banquettes and terrazzo flooring.
The set dinner menu eliminates decisions, but if you prefer latitude, à la carte
weekend lunches are the go. Either way, expect precision. Barbecued king
prawns, charry and glossed with garlicky prawn butter, are staples for
a reason. Wagyu beef carpaccio nods to vitello tonnato with its rich tuna
sauce, adorned with pickled cucumber, dehydrated tomato and paprika.
Fat slices of tender lamb rump with savoury jus and cauliflower purée
exemplify simple things done well. Buffalo ricotta ice-cream brightened
by fresh figs and maple-scented Sherry vinaigrette, meanwhile, delivers
a typically elegant endnote. Coastal gold on the Goldie.

Same Same
Shop AM3, Ada Lane,
46 James St,
Fortitude Valley
(07) 3188 1418
samesamerestaurant.
com.au
Chef Jason Margaritis
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner daily

PHOTOGRAPHY CIERAN MURPHY (SUSHI ROOM).

Sushi Room
Ground Level,
The Calile Hotel,
48 James St,
Fortitude Valley
sushiroom.com.au
Chef Shimpei Raikuni
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Sun;
Dinner daily

THAI

Sitting pretty beside its smart Italian-accented sister, Biànca, Same Same
is where Brisbane congregates for dressed-up street Thai delivered in sharp,
neo-modernist surrounds. It’s loud, uncompromising and fun, with playful
cocktails to match. The impressive wine list, meanwhile, is sufficiently deep
to encompass Échezeaux and chilled cinsault, taking in spice-taming options
from interesting smaller producers en route. A larb made with sticky pork
belly and hot, numbing mah kwan pepper comes out looking like a miniature
Vesuvius, scattered with toasted rice and served with crisp cabbage leaves
and cooling cucumber. Sweet four-chilli sauce enhances deep-fried barramundi,
creating a lively match for the milky-fleshed fillets and abundant herbs.
Watermelon contrasts sweetly with a prawn and herb salad dressed in nahm
jim and showered with fried shallots. Trust the staff and finish with coconut
panna cotta topped with blood-orange granita – anything but same-same.

JAPANESE

Darkly seductive and theatrically lit, Sushi Room is a hot contender for
Australia’s sexiest sushi-ya, complete with curved booths and an imported
hinoki timber counter. Suave sommeliers, white-jacketed sushi masters and
haori-wearing floor staff add to the spectacle. Even dessert – a dome-shaped
miso-chocolate mousse cake that mirrors the arc of the ceiling – makes
a bold statement. It’d almost be intimidating were it not for a rollicking
soundtrack that confirms the mutual DNA with sister restaurant, SK Steak
& Oyster. Handfuls of plump rice topped with jewel-like slices of alfonsino,
kingfish, prized cuts of tuna and more make the chef’s nigiri set a lock.
Grouper tempura is textbook lacy, with dashi for dipping poured at the table.
Pressed sushi with vinegared mackerel, topped with ribbons of its pearlescent
skin, is as slick as the rest of the package, which includes a crimson-hued
private room upstairs. Surrender your credit card, this is A-list luxury.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

154

Gerard’s Bistro
Gerard’s Lane,
14/15 James St,
Fortitude Valley
(07) 3852 3822
gerardsbistro.com.au
Chef Adam Wolfers
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

GOMA Restaurant

Chef Matt Blackwell
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

Take a seat in this light-filled, gallery-like corner room, and prepare to have
your senses stimulated by Matt Blackwell’s nuanced cooking. The chef’s menu
is a smart play, and knowledgeable staff keep the ball rolling at a steady
pace. Rock oysters kick things off, dressed with sour cream, spring-onion
oil and glossy black roe, followed by smoked eel pâté sandwiched between
a crisp potato sliver and vinegar-imbued potato straws. Garlicky ajo blanco
plays well with charred sugarloaf cabbage, curled beneath shavings of
smoked Gouda. Kingfish and mussels meld classic know-how and native
ingredients, arriving with onion beurre blanc and fried saltbush. Tart lemonmeringue gelato shows deftness, too, layered with aerated cream and
balanced by Uji matcha, packing sherbet rocks that explode upon contact.
The drinks list, much like the main building’s artworks, highlights local
standouts, but is gloriously global in attitude. Every great museum deserves
a GOMA-calibre restaurant, but few are fortunate enough to have one.

Restaurant Dan Arnold
10/959 Ann St,
Fortitude Valley
(07) 3189 2735
restaurantdanarnold.
com
Chef Dan Arnold
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri;
Dinner Wed-Sat
155

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Bring an open mind to this benchmark for innovative Levantine cooking.
You’ll experience familiar flavours in novel ways and encounter ingredients
not found elsewhere, thanks to tireless chef Adam Wolfers. Everywhere you
look there’s texture and fresh angles to explore, from the excellent breads all
the way through to a wild-fennel parfait with mangosteen and fig for dessert.
The drinks list is nimble, nailing the formidable task of delivering smart
matches with ease. A warqa tart freights cubed bluefin tuna crudo topped
with salmon pearls, while Hervey Bay squid arrives grilled, paired with
pungent mustard-seed sauce and toasted chickpeas for crunch. Sweet Noosa
scallops on the half shell find favour in brown butter laced with Aleppo
pepper. Kibbeh nayeh, made with wagyu beef, comes out on a crisp sunflower
biscuit, the glossy raw meat finished with murrī, a salty ferment dating back to
medieval times. This is mould-breaking Middle Eastern at its best.

CONTEMPORARY

The theatre starts with intricate snacks. Tiny cigars filled with bush-tomato
jelly and chive blossoms. Rich duck rillettes with shavings of fresh pistachio.
Bubbly crackers bearing beer-poached mussels and mushrooms. There’s
more skill in RDA’s openers and closing petits fours than across entire menus
at some other restaurants. What comes between is consistently dexterous,
whether you choose one of three tasting menus or let Arnold himself set your
adventure. Briny Skull Island prawns dazzle under a skin of coconut jelly
with Malay-style curry sauce. A breast of Elgin Valley chicken with glass-like
skin is deeply flavourful, alongside a triangle of terrine and aerated vin
jaune. Earl Grey custard elevates a blackberry chocolate dessert, with a
delicate tuile balancing popcorn ice-cream and orange petals. Interiors are
polished, service accomplished and given the attention paid to detail, a wine
pairing proves a wise decision. Consider it dinner and a show.

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL JOSEPH (GOMA) & JUDIT LOSH (GERARD’S).

Stanley Pl,
South Brisbane
(07) 3842 9916
qagoma.qld.gov.au

MIDDLE EASTERN

QLD

Blume
5 Church St, Boonah
0477 900 535
blumerestaurant.com.au
Chef Jack Stuart
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Fri-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

This exciting 21-seater is the real deal, a rural gem showcasing Scenic Rim
abundance with city panache. The historic building, with its pressed-metal
walls and timber floors, is an evocative spot to experience the region’s bounty,
cleverly enhanced by ferments like the garum and shio koji that sit ageing
on shelves. Flavour rules here. The prix fixe menu might feature house
chorizo or local pecorino shaved over crisp spelt cannoli piped with rich,
cheesy custard and bitter onions. Ox tongue and oyster mushrooms arrive
yakitori-style, savouriness intensified by shio koji, sesame oil, rice vinegar
and shoyu. Local quail, subtly smoky, comes with a pickled black-walnut
sauce and vadouvan-spiced cauliflower. The tight drinks list is still evolving,
but enthusiastic service charms, as does the spice cake that pays tribute to
the chef-owner’s late mentor, Katie McCormack, of Congress in Melbourne.

Elska
148 Merthyr Rd,
New Farm
0435 247 411
elska.com.au
Chef Nathan Dunnell
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Fri-Sat;
Dinner Thu-Sat

PHOTOGRAPHY GRACE DOONER (BLUME).

Exhibition Restaurant
Basement,
109 Edward St,
Brisbane
exhibitionrestaurant.
com
Chefs Tim Scott &
Mitchell Chambers
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

NORDIC

Elska requires commitment. The simply furnished, dégustation-only venue
has just 12 tables and opens three days a week. Snag a dinner booking, and
you’ll pay $155 for 15-ish courses that vary by the day, furnished by foragers
and micro-farms. It’s worth the tenacity. Expect Nordic nose-to-tail cooking
with an Australian bent, featuring flavour-boosting ferments like banksia-andbottlebrush vinegar, wallaby garum and bunya-nut miso. Snacks kick off with
locally shot wild deer, presented as a multi-layered venison fat pastry, gamey
tartare and doughnuts with aged venison cream. Boar terrine, meanwhile,
comes adorned with fermented black apple. Quail lands in the form of crumbed
drumsticks and a breast accompanied by jus, riberries, green garlic and
sweet blood bread blobbed with sour cream. All the while, friendly service
ensures diners never feel out of their depth. It’s a two-hour trip worth taking.

CONTEMPORARY

Tim Scott grabbed the attention of diners at Joy, the tiny restaurant he
co-founded with Sarah Baldwin in 2019. Now, the chef-owner is cutting
a solo dash at Exhibition, an underground 24-seater with a dégustation
designed to honour the growers, producers and artisans that underwrite
the success of any standout venue. A personal welcome from Scott and
a volley of nine snacks get things underway. Think abalone-liver parfait
spread across shokupan fingers or churros crammed with scampi crudo
dressed in crustacean oil, orange zest and native thyme. Heaped spanner
crab tartlets are layered with a miso emulsion and puffed buckwheat,
followed perhaps by roasted duck breast on a vermillion pool of juniperfragrant beetroot gastrique. Come dessert, hazelnut gelato and cheesecake
are joined by curly Jerusalem artichoke chips. Drinks are as considered as
the custom ceramics and hand-forged cutlery in play. A truly virtuosic display.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

156

Essa
181 Robertson St,
Fortitude Valley
(07) 3177 1011
essa.restaurant
Chefs Phil Marchant
& Fin Burgess
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Tue-Sat

Agnes
22 Agnes St,
Fortitude Valley
(07) 3067 9087
agnesrestaurant.com.au
Chefs Ben Williamson
& Alex Gregg
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sat;
Dinner Tue-Sat

Subtle. Complex. Intriguing. They’re adjectives that may not spring to mind
when you picture dishes pulled from primeval firepits. But Agnes confounds
and exceeds expectations. Flavoursome beef tartare with toasted hazelnuts
exemplifies finesse by adding sweet pepper jam and crème fraîche, along
with a crown of smoky arabushi flakes. Firm fillets of gold spot cod in potato
dashi are equally arresting beneath a mantle of tarragon, shiso and lemon
balm, with “burnt” olive crumbs and smoked tomato beneath. Service is top
notch, a sommelier nominating two matches for the fish – a qvevri-aged
Georgian white and chilled Burgundian red – both of which speak to a wine
list with heft. With dim lighting and sparks flying, Agnes almost feels like
a modern-day medieval dining hall. A lush dessert of grilled fig, burnt honey
ice-cream and honey jelly proves the fare is anything but feudal.

Cnr Swan La
and Railway St,
Mudgeeraba
(07) 5645 6462
anekawa.com.au
Chef Koki Anekawa
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

How does a venue attain landmark status in a year? Score a coveted seat at
Essa’s chef’s bench and you’ll gain an insight. The tight-knit kitchen team is
surgically focused, sending out dishes kissed by fire in subtle but expressive
ways. Scorched sourdough adds bite to an ’nduja entrée that resembles
tartare, the spice of chilli oil tamed by river-mint honey. House-made XO
sauce and a garlic emulsion elevate slices of ripe beefsteak tomato layered
with different types of basil. Brown butter and lemon-myrtle buds make for
a neat twist on meunière sauce, served over grilled John Dory fillets and
amplified by finger lime and jalapeño. Savvy, black-clad waitstaff, meanwhile,
present bottles of by-the-glass pours from the grown-up wine list and ensure
proceedings stay pacy. Dessert – mango sorbet, passionfruit and a rubble of
caramelised white chocolate – is a reminder that good things often come in
chic, understated packages.

AUSTRALIAN

Anekawa

157

AUSTRALIAN

JAPANESE

Discovering this quirky destination diner, in a distinctly un-touristy Gold Coast
town, is an unexpected thrill. The tiny, low-lit space is earthy, elemental and
all about high-quality raw materials refracted through a Japanese lens – much
like the kitchen’s accomplished approach. Omakase is the way to go, paired
with sake, wine and shochu from engaging, small-scale makers, chosen for
their harmony with umami flavours. Chunks of tender octopus are clad in
crisp batter, designed to be dunked into savoury dashi then pulled through
shichimi togarashi. Char-grilled mackerel arrives with smoky skin, swimming
in buttery shoyu sauce with preserved green peppercorns and pickled
cabbage. Claypots are hearty, heaped with dashi-scented rice, coddled egg
and strips of beef. A spin on an affogato sees espresso syrup poured over
clean soy ice-cream and hazelnut praline in a kintsugi bowl, its cracks
mended with gold. Like Anekawa itself, it’s a delight.

PHOTOGRAPHY BROCK BEAZLEY (ESSA) & DAVID CHATFIELD (AGNES).

E
INN R

ST

AT E W

QUEENSLAND

ACT

Corella Restaurant & Bar
Shop 1, 14 Lonsdale
St, Braddon
(02) 6189 0757
corellabar.com.au
Chef Leon Pan
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Tue-Sun

Onzieme
5/39 Kennedy St,
Kingston
0424 894 763
onzieme.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY PEW PEW STUDIO (WILMA) & LEAN TIMMS (ONZIEME).

Chef Louis Couttoupes
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

Corella might be the kind of sunny wine bar/restaurant hybrid that would
feel at home anywhere in the country. Its position in the capital, however,
along with the liberal use of Indigenous flavours and references to iconic
Australian foods, give it the sense of something more important. These
elements, together with the stacked wine list and cocktails spotlighting
spirits from across the land, turn what could easily have been a by-thenumbers outing into a blisteringly relevant experience. Be it the
“buttermite” accompanying toasty saltbush focaccia, pepperberry-dotted
sauerkraut on a rosella taco, or a ponzu spiked with lemon myrtle, chef
Leon Pan incorporates ingredients playfully, but without a heavy hand.
Factor in a few hints of nostalgia – like the taco-kit-style native spice rub
that adorns the pork chop – and this could well be the foremost exponent
of our national cuisine right now.

AUSTRALIAN

Kingston might not quite match the happening vibe of Paris’s 11th
arrondissement, after which Onzieme is named. And yet, there’s an
electric hustle to the comings and goings at this restaurant with wine-bar
cred, which has quickly enlivened the inner-east pocket of Canberra.
Chef-owner Louis Couttoupes has his ex-Bar Rochford fingerprints all over
the menu, which is scrawled daily across the room’s glass panels and
often features produce grown for him by friends nearby. Whether it’s
gentle whey caramel spooned over grilled haloumi or crisp, bite-sized
potato galettes dusted with powdered nori and cured egg-yolk shavings,
this is a line-up that begs for solid drinks. To that end, manager and
sommelier Tom Blakely’s list offers a breakdown of “fun” and “classic”
drops, making it easy to choose the best bottle or glass for your mood.
And Onzieme succeeds in making sure that mood is always a good one.

Wilma
1 Genge St, Canberra
(02) 6171 2092
wilmabbq.com.au
Chef Brendan Hill
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

ASIAN

Canberra’s appetite for contemporary Asian-inspired food seems
unquenchable, with glitzy Wilma joining the ranks of established hotspots
plying updates on classic Chinese dishes and familiar flavours from the rest
of the continent. With Biota’s James Viles having overseen the opening,
it’s now Brendan Hill (ex-Aria) supervising the wok, grill and offset smoker
from which the signature char siu pork belly and wood-smoked Peking duck
emerge. The generous menu is designed for a good time. Ditto the two-storey,
booth-filled dining room, with dramatic lighting and an ’80s and ’90s
soundtrack providing an ideal mise-en-scène for crisp egg noodles and
battered Balmain bugs in a pool of chilli oil, or fried mantou-like prawn buns
with sweet and sour sauce sharpened by Davidson’s plum. Add a broad
range of cocktails and a neat Oz-heavy wine selection, and Wilma guarantees
a cracking night, be it an intimate dinner for two or a feast with friends.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

158

AUSTRALIAN
CAPITAL
TERRITORY
NNER

Pilot
1 Wakefield Gardens,
Ainslie
(02) 6257 4334
pilotrestaurant.com
Chef Malcolm Hanslow
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

Your journey at Pilot starts with an unexpected cup of tea – a palateawakening mix of oolong, mango and papaya – and every step of the
multi-course expedition gets increasingly unpredictable from there.
You might be handed an intricate coil of roasted carrot adorned with
house-made za’atar, and have it followed by a plate of glazed chicken
wings stuffed with kimchi fried rice or a bowl of chips and dip. The unifier
is chef Malcolm Hanslow’s clever interplay between familiarity and
surprise, like tortellini filled with dehydrated cherry tomatoes, submerged
in a bewitching sourdough consommé that manages to be both nostalgic
and new. Or a cold-smoked spear of wagyu sirloin finished over charcoal
that happily reimagines the classic pub pepper steak with its sauce of
green peppercorns and Aleppo pepper. It’s playful stuff, made even
more so by sommelier James Dickson-Hoyle’s wine list and beverage
matching skills. Effortless, but also staggeringly considered.

Bar Rochford
First Floor, 65 London
Cct, Canberra
(02) 6230 6222
barrochford.com
Chefs Josh Lundy
& Belinda Smith
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

159

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

AUSTRALIAN

Between the spirits swirling around tall mixing glasses, the dexterous staff
flitting back and forth pouring minimal-intervention wines, and the turntable
spinning a riot of groove, jazz and soul, the bar at the heart of Bar Rochford
is in perpetual motion. There’s some world-class drinking happening here,
but there’s just as much to love in co-chefs Josh Lundy and Belinda Smith’s
punchy food offering. A tidy menu of snacky wine bar classics – white
anchovy and caper-rich gribiche toasts; crisp potato galettes heaped with
steak tartare – easily transforms a quiet drink into a party. More substantial
shared plates, meanwhile, like stunning koji-rubbed pork chop with
gochujang caramel, turn any visit into a proper night out. Bar Rochford
might be the perfect place to drop into for a quick tipple, but few rooms
in Canberra, let alone the whole country, are quite as difficult to leave.

PHOTOGRAPHY OHBOI CREATIVE (CORELLA).

STAT E

WI

NSW

Una Más
Coogee Pavilion,
130a Beach St,
Coogee
(02) 9114 7383
merivale.com/venues/
una-mas
Chef Jordan Toft
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Ursula’s Paddington

PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK STEVENSON (UNA MAS) & NIKKI TO (URSULA’S PADDINGTON).

92 Hargrave St,
Paddington
0499 525 235
ursulas.com.au
Chef Phil Wood
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Tue-Sat;
Dinner Tue-Sat

MEDITERRANEAN

Space may not be the strong suit at Una Más, but every inch of this often
packed Catalonia-meets-Hamptons room is cleverly designed to ensure
there isn’t a dud seat in the house. (Just aim to face the vast arched windows
with sweeping beach views.) The menu spotlights Spanish-accented hits
from Gildas, patatas bravas and croquetas through to a Basque cheesecake
that rules them all. Perhaps the biggest star is a dish of marinated octopus,
licked by flames and tender as all get-out, served with a long-fermented
habanero sauce. It’s emblematic of the broader experience here – an
exercise in simple, breezy and beautiful things done with abundant
thought and care. That thinking extends to the wine list, too – a savvy,
engaging one-pager of mostly natural drops from our own backyard and
around the Med. While Mimi’s, the elegant fine-diner across the hall,
is undoubtedly excellent, this is the one that keeps you coming back.

AUSTRALIAN

How refreshing to find a new Sydney restaurant that isn’t trying too hard
to be sexy or hip. This double-storey heritage terrace has an almost Audrey
Hepburn-esque innocence to it; it’s pretty, not pretentious, and comforting
rather than challenging. But that doesn’t mean it’s boring. Owner-chef
Phil Wood and his partner Lis Davies pull out all sorts of clever tricks. The
butter sauce beneath French-style roast Bannockburn chicken, gai lan and
mushroom duxelles comes with a twist: the savoury lilt of kombu. Desserts
surprise by travelling over the globe, from retro CWA-inspired golden-syrup
dumplings to a Southeast Asian pandan custard. The wine list, meanwhile,
ranges from edgy to immediately recognisable. In the context of a homely,
sunshine-hued dining room with white tablecloths and scalloped crockery,
all this may read as disjointed on paper. In reality, it simply feels warm and
jolly – not just comfortable, but content in its own skin.

Ragazzi Wine and Pasta
Whether it’s a humble cacio e
pepe or the more daring likes of
squid-ink cavatelli with chickpeas
and sea urchin, the Love Tilly
Group’s squeezy shrine to pasta
always gets it right. Bonus
points for the very thoughtfully
constructed and thoroughly
annotated pearl of a wine list.
ragazziwineandpasta.com

Sean’s
Now sailing into its fourth decade
of operation, Sean Moran’s
seaside institution remains as
rock-solid a bet as ever for long
lunches, sunset dinners and roast
chook consistently namechecked
as Sydney’s finest. Not much could
make the deal any sweeter, but
the option to BYO certainly does.
seansbondi.com

Soul Dining
Categorising Illa Kim and Daero
Lee’s intimate, evocative eatery
isn’t all that easy. But where
semantics fail, the couple
succeeds with free-wheeling,
forward-thinking riffs on
contemporary Korean cuisine
with a finger on the pulse. The
fun continues at their casual
café spin-off, Soul Deli, nearby.
souldining.com.au

10 William St
That it still almost always feels
like a house party at this
Paddington mainstay more than
10 years on is a testament to
sharp Italian-accented cooking
and a low-intervention wine
offering which have pushed
boundaries since day dot and
continue to do just that.
10williamst.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

160

Shell House Dining Room & Terrace
37 Margaret St, Sydney
(02) 9158 4000
shellhouse.com.au
Chefs Joel Bickford
& Aaron Ward
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sat;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Sixpenny
83 Percival Rd,
Stanmore
(02) 9572 6666
sixpenny.com.au
Chefs Daniel Puskas
& Anthony Schifilliti
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

It almost doesn’t matter what you eat or drink at Shell House. So spectacular
is the transformation of a 1930s Wynyard Park building into a three-storey
gustatory pleasure palace that you could simply marvel at its good looks
alone. A laneway lift takes you up to the Dining Room and Terrace, where
serious cooking with share-plate generosity awaits. Traditional ideas get
imaginative turnarounds across the menu, but good taste reigns supreme.
So, pickled mussels arrive with salted onions slicked in garlicky mujdei
dressing; excellent agnolotti filled with both Taleggio and wild-mushroom
cream get a sprucing of Geraldton wax oil; a platter of sliced, aged pork
loin cooked over coals pairs marvellously with grilled radicchio, persimmon
and wattleseed jus. A pre- or post-dinner cocktail in the Clocktower Bar
is strongly recommended for spellbinding Art Deco interiors, or head to
Sky Bar for glittering city light views. Consider it – quite literally –
a brilliant addition to Sydney city life.

AUSTRALIAN

This 1907 corner terrace, with its tastefully modern interiors, seems
determinedly future-forward, both in terms of its creativity and its
sustainable mindset. Case in point: the “recycled” bread that alone merits
a visit, made from unused crumbs, coffee grounds and golden syrup. Here,
fine produce meets fascinating ferments: perhaps barley koji, broad bean
doubanjiang or any number of creations from the jars lining the corridor.
Immaculately presented snacks like a sweet-potato taco with kangaroo
tartare and caramel ice-cream, or a seriously fabulous brioche doughnut
filled with pecorino custard, lead into small, mostly seafood-based dishes.
Think snapper with cucumber and Uruguayan caviar, or Murray cod with
greens, macadamia cream and cuttlefish garum. After the climactic dessert
of raspberries with mead-vinegar custard, still-warm petits fours might
even be taken home for tomorrow’s breakfast. From start to finish, a meal
at Sixpenny – complete with beautiful ceramics, smart service and
imaginative beverage pairings – is a rare and exciting treat.

THE
GOOD
TIMES
LIST
161

MEDITERRANEAN

Lankan Filling Station
Tearing off the lacy edge of
a hopper and scooping up one
of O Tama Carey’s astonishingly
aromatic curries is never anything
short of an adventure. Pile up
your plate with sambols, finish
with a heady love cake and
you’ll come to understand why
this is essential Sydney dining.
lankanfillingstation.com.au

Monopole
It’s been barely two years since
Monopole traded Potts Point for
bistro-ish digs in the heart of the
CBD, but already it feels like part
of the furniture. Of course, with
Brent Savage steering the menu
and Nick Hildebrandt on cellar
duty, that should come as
absolutely no surprise.
monopolesydney.com.au

Poly
Not many dishes accrue maniacal
fandom the way Poly’s fried potato
with salted egg yolk has. It’s that
more-is-more approach to flavour
- both in the hearth-powered
kitchen and on the drinks front that makes every visit to Mat
Lindsay’s line-blurring wine
bar endlessly exciting.
polysurryhills.com.au

NSW

Restaurant Hubert
15 Bligh St, Sydney
(02) 9232 0881
swillhouse.com/venues/
restaurant-hubert
Chef Alexis Besseau
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sat;
Dinner Mon-Sat

FRENCH

How easy is it to love Hubert? It all begins the second you step from
an ordinary city street into this parallel universe heaving with life and
laughter. On dark-wood walls hang all manner of prints and vintage
posters, and up on stage against a red velvet curtain, a trio of musicians
strum jazz hits. Quirks add excitement to the easy, French-focused
menu – a signature gratin made with kimchi, say, or the lively dashi
jelly accompanying tuna tartare. The tart shells known as “roe boats”
– topped with sea urchin, Avruga caviar and trout roe – are a dive into
briny brilliance. Clams à la bourride, meanwhile, slosh nicely in their
garlicky, buttery sauce. A rare bavette is a logical follow-up, alongside
crunchy pommes Anna and a mesclun salad with walnut dressing.
There’s lots to like about the drinks, too, be it timeless cocktails or
wines spanning vintage classic to new-age interesting.
Simply put, the romance is real.

Sáng by Mabasa
98 Fitzroy St, Surry Hills
(02) 9331 5175
sangbymabasa.com.au
Chefs Seung-kee Son
& Jin-sun Son
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch and dinner
Thu-Sun

THE
GOOD
TIMES
LIST

KOREAN

Sáng’s mission is to present the breadth and depth of traditional Korean
cuisine in a contemporary setting. So, while fried chicken and bibimbap
are here and well executed, the menu’s rewards run far deeper. Order
a lager or soju from the punchy drinks list (amazingly, you can still BYO),
then start with some mandu, or moon-eo sookhwe – a tangle of poached
octopus, radish and chilli. Larger, share-friendly mains also leave a big
impression, especially the gujeolpan, a must-order wheel of nine
“delicacies” wreathed around a pile of buckwheat pancakes. Ditto
the bo ssäm, which is everything you’d hope for and more. Sporting just
24 seats, Sáng is particularly compact and sitting at a squeezy communal
table is likely. But what this brilliant family-run spot lacks in elbow room,
it more than makes up for with value and just about everything else that
makes restaurant dining a total joy.

Ante
No recent opening has breathed
more life into the Emerald City’s
hospitality landscape than this low-lit
listening bar stacked with records
and sake. For best results, order
a flight and as many of Jemma
Whiteman’s nuanced small plates
as you can. Then, sit back, relax
and let the music play.

Chaco Bar
Some might say Keita Abe makes the
best ramen in town. Others would
argue he’s the tempura king. But the
breadth of his talent shines brightest
at his Potts Point yakitori-ya, where
exceptional sashimi, spellbinding
chawanmushi and other treasures
complement the array of expertly
charcoal-grilled skewers.

ante.bar

chacobar.com.au

Continental Deli CBD
Grab a solo seat at the bar for
a French dip and famed Mar-tinny.
Or settle into the banquette for an
all-out affair of conservas, cured
meats, whole fish and bottle after
bottle of Burgundy and Côte-Rôtie.
However you play it, the Deli is
the definition of a good time.
continentaldelicatessen.com.au/cbd

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

162

Pipit
Shop 4, 8 Coronation
Ave, Pottsville
0490 380 117
pipitrestaurant.com
Chef Ben Devlin
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sat

Porcine

Chef Nik Hill
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sat

FRENCH

No squealer is safe when it’s in Nik Hill’s sights. In the Porcine kitchen,
Hill and his team break down a whole Berkshire or Duroc pig each week,
turning it into a gorgeous, French-inspired fare that pulls no punches –
like creamy, rillettes-like cretons with a hillock of savoury puy lentils or
a croquette stuffed with meat from the head on a vintage skewer. When the
crew get hold of a good wild boar, they’ll transform it into ham or pastrami.
It’s the extravagant pork chop, however, that’s become the restaurant’s
signature, neatly sliced and glistening with oloroso sherry. There’s plenty
for the pig-shy, too: layered petals of endive and pears slicked with orange
vinaigrette, or whole turbot in a potent vin jaune sauce. It all comes to life
on the upper level of a Paddington terrace crammed with Parisian curio,
and it all goes delightfully well with a bottle of something wild and
wonderful from P&V Merchants, the bottle shop downstairs.

Quay
Upper Level, Overseas
Passenger Terminal,
The Rocks
(02) 9251 5600
quay.com.au
Chefs Peter Gilmore,
Troy Crisante
& Tim Mifsud
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sun
163

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Pipit is big on first impressions. Moments after you’ve taken your seat
– feijoa-spiked gin, tonic and soda in hand – your table bears the weight
of a gallery of snacks. Each bite is its own staggering work of complexity,
utilising ferments, dry-cures, kitchen waste and other trickery. Think
oyster custard topped with squid-garum jelly “caviar”, or duck-wing
salami with slivers of cured green mango. Then there’s the koji-porridge
bread, made by inoculating leftover sourdough, grinding it into flour and
baking it into a new loaf. Laurels aren’t rested on once those bespoke
small plates are cleared, either. Expect course after course of inimitable
produce sourced from such close proximity that the map of suppliers
included with the bill is practically walkable. It’s all paired with a drinks
list packed with minimal-intervention Aussie wines and an unbroken
view of one of the country’s most inventive kitchens.

AUSTRALIAN

Ten seconds is all that’s required to consume the first course in Quay’s
dégustation. It’s a brief moment in time for a dish that takes almost a week
to create. But as you savour the caviar-studded smoked-eel cream, you
don’t think about the five-day process involved in making the translucent
sea-cucumber crackling scattered on top. Instead, you’re wondering if the
courses still to come are going to be just as wonderfully balanced and
incredibly ingenious. Spoiler alert: they are. Proof is in a bowl of slippery
noodles fashioned from bone marrow, flavoured with delicate flecks of
mud crab and pinstriped peanuts. Or a square of slow-smoked pig’s jowl
swathed in a silken, umami-rich custard made from fermented shiitake
mushrooms. The service is warm, the views unbeatable and the overall
sense of understated luxury profound. Peter Gilmore’s flagship continues
to define fine-dining in Australia.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (QUAY) & YOUMEE JEON (SANG BY MABASA), BEN DEVLIN (PIPIT).

268 Oxford St,
Paddington
0423 015 032
porcine.com.au

AUSTRALIAN

NSW

Lucky Kwong
2 Locomotive St,
Eveleigh
luckykwong.com.au
Chef Kylie Kwong
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Mon-Fri

Mr Wong
3 Bridge Lane, Sydney
(02) 9114 7317
merivale.com/venues/
mrwong

PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW (LUCKY KWONG) & WILL HORNER (PELLEGRINO).

Chefs Dan Hong
& Michael Luo
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and
dinner daily

Pellegrino 2000
80 Campbell St,
Surry Hills
(02) 8593 0114
pellegrino2000.com
Chefs Dan Pepperell
& Michael Clift
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner daily

CHINESE

It’s almost impossible not to feel the love at Lucky Kwong. The simple yet
elegant canteen is a physical manifesto by Kylie Kwong, which embodies
how she wants to live her life and feed her customers. It’s the reason LK
is only open for weekday lunches and sittings are limited to an hour. The
food is simple, honest and made to nourish: steaming bowls of Hokkien
noodles, silken dumplings and savoury pancakes piled high with crisp
vegetables and fresh, delicate herbs. Each dish is elevated by Kwong’s
signature balance of heat, texture and flavour, as well as the quality of
the produce. The menu credits every producer, hand-picked for their
commitment to sustainability, from Josh Niland’s Fish Butchery to local
school children who tend the community garden next door. This is the
Lucky Kwong family, and to dine here is to enter their home. Welcome.

CANTONESE

For any restaurant to be consistent in this day and age is an achievement.
The fact that Mr Wong – a walloping 240-seater offering 70-plus dishes
and 40-odd pages worth of wine – continues to fire on all cylinders is
a downright masterstroke. Lunch is the move here, when the full spread
of meticulously crafted dim sum is up for grabs: flaky, full-flavoured duck
spring rolls, say, or peerless, delicate dumplings brimming with wild
mushrooms or king crab, prawns, black garlic and trout roe. More
substantial dishes, such as firm-fleshed Glacier 51 toothfish fragrant with
ginger and spring onion, treat Cantonese tradition with proper respect.
There’s whimsy, too, in fluffy “typhoon shelter” fried rice with king crab,
dusted in a fluorescent rubble of fried chilli and garlic. Surrender all
thoughts of recession, doom and gloom – in this frenetic fantasy of
luxury and excess, the party never stops.

ITALIAN

Much of what makes the Pellegrino 2000 experience so satisfying –
dynamite focaccia, killer fritto misto, cracking lamb ragù – can hardly be
considered original. Yet the execution is just so precise that, somehow, it all
feels new again. This is Dan Pepperell’s kitchen, so of course there are twists
on the seemingly straightforward menu. Bread sauce amplifies the richness
of a juicy quail saltimbocca tenfold, while a “crema caramello” arrives with
a preposterous spire of whipped banana cream alongside. The playful tone
is echoed by the dining room’s retro stylings and cheeky service that’s never
anything less than professional. If there’s one place to sit here, it’s downstairs
in the transportive, shadowy cellar lined with decades-old bottles of wine.
These relics are, in fact, available to drink, but better to stick to somm and
co-owner Andy Tyson’s smart and well-pitched list. If this is the next phase
of the trattoria, the future looks bright, indeed.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

164

Eschalot

Chef Matty Roberts
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sun

Walking to your table through this historic stone building in the Southern
Highlands, past fireplace-warmed rooms filled with fellow road-trippers,
is enchantingly transformative. Formal restaurant artifices melt away until
you feel as if you’re dining in a friend’s country home. The agrarian fantasy
continues on the menu, which chef Matty Roberts builds around ingredients
from the surrounding area and might include Manchego, leek and seaweed
croquettes glossy with truffled honey, or a tower of craggy, sriracha-glazed
fried chicken. The cooking is sharp and the produce blindingly fresh, but
what separates Eschalot from other pastoral dining experiences is a rare
type of enthusiasm shared by the staff and other diners similarly disarmed
by the conviviality of it all. From the hearths in the dining rooms to the heart
on the plates, Eschalot offers the kind of home-style dining experience you
just can’t get at home.

Ho Jiak Town Hall
125 York St, Sydney
(02) 8065 6954
hojiak.com.au
Chef Junda Khoo
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and
dinner daily

Lana
Hinchcliff House,
5-7 Young St, Sydney
(02) 7228 1400
lana.sydney
Chef Alex Wong
Price guide $$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

165

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

MALAYSIAN

Self-taught chef Junda Khoo’s restaurant empire keeps expanding thanks
to his riveting, singular spin on Malaysian cuisine. Yet it’s here in a mammoth,
multi-level space in the shadow of the Queen Victoria Building that his
prowess finds perhaps its most profound expression. Is there a better start
to a meal in all of Sydney than a bowl of his salt-and-pepper tofu skins,
rendered hypnotically fragrant by lemongrass and makrut lime? Picking at
them while you alternate between bites of impeccable wagyu beef satay
and the signature laksa bombs is another type of bliss. The staggering
selection of 80-odd dishes may induce analysis paralysis, but every order
should include barramundi in a Nyonya-style sauce that draws pungent
and penetrating depth from galangal, tamarind and ginger flower. Service
is every bit as good-humoured as the neon sign that reads, “Save Water,
Drink Beer”. With so many booming flavours afoot, it’s advice worth taking.

CONTEMPORARY

What was initially billed as a Mediterranean fine-diner has become a far
more intriguing proposition under head chef Alex Wong, who incorporates
Asian flavours into his seafood-focused menu and fuses them with Italian
staples. Think cappelletti inspired by siu mai in a rich dashi, or scampi crudo
glazed in white balsamic atop chewy koshihikari rice cakes. The result is
some of the city’s most interesting cooking, served in a warm and glamorous
dining room that has proven itself the dark horse of Sydney’s new openings.
Part of the multi-level dining precinct Hinchcliff House, Lana welcomes
impromptu dining with walk-ins invited to sit at the bar and order from the
“Play List” – a sharp edit of snackable hits. Like the DJ who sets a lively
mood on weekends, slick service keeps things playful while delivering
one of the best value menus in town. Cap it off with a nightcap at Apollonia,
the excellent cocktail bar in the basement.

PHOTOGRAPHY ELLYNA TJOHNARDI (HO JIAK TOWN HALL), STEVENWOODBURN (LANA) & ABBIE MELLE (ESCHALOT).

24 Old Hume Hwy,
Berrima
(02) 4877 1977
eschalot.com.au

CONTEMPORARY

NSW

Bentley Restaurant & Bar
27 O’Connell St,
Sydney
(02) 8214 0505
thebentley.com.au
Chefs Brent Savage
& Aiden Stevens
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Fri;
Dinner Tue-Sat

Berowra Waters Inn

PHOTOGRAPHY VICTORIA ZWIERZYNSKI (BEROWRA WATERS INN) & JUN CHEN (CAFE PACI).

1 Calabash Pt,
Berowra Waters
(02) 9456 1027
berowrawatersinn.com
Chefs Brian Geraghty
& Lauren Eldridge
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Thu-Sun;
Dinner Fri-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

It’s all elegance, all the time, from the moment you open those magnificent
brass doors, walk through the moody bar (well worth an apéritif stop
before your booking) and into the glamorous mezzanine dining room
designed by Pascale Gomes-McNabb. Then there’s Brent Savage’s
rarefied menu, honed and refined from decades in the business,
alongside confident selections from the vast cellar expertly curated
by Nick Hildebrandt. Expect perfectly cooked meat and seafood – rich
David Blackmore wagyu rib cap speckled with native pepper on a wave
of black-bean sauce; or Moreton Bay bug beneath bubbles of freeze-dried
mandarin and sea herbs – and know that all of it comes with the best
service you’ll get in the city. Sure, this sort of reliable excellence isn’t
breaking new ground. But where would any world-class city be without
glorious gatekeepers like this that form the foundation of a dining scene?

AUSTRALIAN

Accessible only by boat or seaplane, Berowra Waters Inn is as close as you
can get to dégustation dining on the water without getting wet. Inside this
solid sandstone and corrugated-tin pavilion, chef-owner Brian Geraghty
effortlessly combines modern techniques with native flavours. Take, for
example, a plate of sliced raw kingfish, which is doused in a punchy banksia
vinegar and topped with daikon and “capers” made from sea-fennel flower
buds. Or the wagyu beef, which is cooked in its own fat and barbecued until
meltingly tender, then finished with a fermented uni butter. The playful
“Discovery” pairing of strictly Australian low-intervention wines brings the
restaurant bang up to date, as does pastry chef Lauren Eldridge, whose
fruit-forward creations strike the perfect balance between sweet and sour.
Her showstopping rhubarb and Davidson’s plum dessert alone is worth the
trip across the Hawkesbury River.

Cafe Paci
131 King St, Newtown
(02) 9550 6196
cafepaci.com.au
Chef Pasi Petänen
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat;
Dinner Mon-Sat

EUROPEAN

People tend to smile at Cafe Paci. Maybe it’s the genuinely warm,
“everyone’s welcome” atmosphere that’s such a defining part of its
allure. Yet it’s just as likely they’re grinning at how much fun the food
is. The menu might feel familiar at first glance, but the thrills lie in the
idiosyncrasies. Take a snack of fermented carrot slices and ’nduja on
rye – a nod to chef-owner Pasi Petänen’s Finnish heritage – or the fluffy,
deeply flavoured bread baked in-house with potato and molasses.
And what of another snack, that signature rye taco with ox tongue and
sauerkraut, so clever and good it deserves the keys to the city? Cavatelli
is groundbreaking, too, made with a sourdough starter and offset by the
sweet-sharp combo of pear and pecorino. Giorgio De Maria’s drinks list
is equally high-spirited – boutique wines, of course, but also a riot of
Calvados, artisan sake and amari. It all just works so well.
G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

166

NEW
SOUTH
WALES
NNER

Margaret
Cnr Bay St & Guilfoyle
Ave, Double Bay
(02) 9068 8888
margaretdoublebay.
com
Chef Neil Perry
& Richard Purdue
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

While it’s hardly surprising that Neil Perry’s latest restaurant is very good,
it can be surprising just how good Margaret is. Over the course of his
groundbreaking career, Perry has become synonymous with a specific
type of modern Australian dining that melds a variety of cuisines around
brilliant, carefully sourced ingredients. It can be easy to take his presence
for granted. But taste a forkful of first-rate King George whiting (grilled,
splashed with lemon and olive oil) and experience a heavenly choir moment.
Or be wowed by meticulously balanced prawn-and-pork sausages with
peanut and cucumber relish, pitch-perfect tuna sashimi or fried coral-trout
wings doused in lime and chilli. The casually luxurious earth-toned room
and careful yet relaxed service, along with an admirable wine list that gives
maximum support to the seafood-heavy menu, only add to the feeling
you’re in the presence of a master still at the height of his powers.

Beach Byron Bay
2 Massinger St,
Byron Bay
1300 583 766
beachbyronbay.com.au
Chef Alanna Sapwell
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Mon;
Dinner Thu-Sat

167

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

AUSTRALIAN

Few dining rooms in Australia are as true to their name as Beach, the
foam-white pavilion perched on the dunes of Byron’s Clarkes Beach. It’s
the perfect setting for head chef Alanna Sapwell’s concise, Mediterraneanesque stylings; her relaxed-but-refined plates seasoned by the saltwater
breeze as they drift through the sunny open dining room. Sapwell’s time
at Sydney’s Saint Peter is particularly evident in the daily specials – ribbons
of charcoal-licked squid caught two kilometres away, say, knotted over
a peppery nasturtium salsa verde. There’s plenty for pescatarians, carnivores
and vegetarians alike, but the knockout punch is a sweet one: cubes of
pineapple, white peach and rollinia (a native custard apple, sourced nearby)
jelly alongside coconut sorbet and guava granita, evoking childhood
memories of ice-cream and tinned fruit. It’s a dessert poised to become
an instant classic, exactly the right way to end a day at the Beach.

PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY (MARGARET) & NIKKI TO (BEACH BYRON BAY).

STAT E

WI

VIC

Tulum
217 Carlisle St,
Balaclava
(03) 9525 9127
tulumrestaurant.com.au
Chef Coskun Uysal
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat;
Dinner Tue-Sat

TURKISH

It’s Turkish, but not as you know it. Since 2016, chef Coskun Uysal has
taken diners to a place not on the map, thanks to a charismatic spin on
the flavours of his homeland. Even those who already know their simit
from their padisah will have their horizons broadened here. The former
sees the quintessential sesame-crusted bread from Istanbul’s streets
jazzed up with smoked whipped cod roe, candied orange zest and white
anchovy’s bracing tang. The latter – a recipe plucked from the kitchens of
the Ottoman palaces – sees a comfort-heavy collusion of wagyu pastirma,
poached egg and caramelised onion under a soft, warm blanket of potato
mousse. Dripping in low-lit, turquoise-tiled splendour, the transportive
dining room has more recently been reinvented as a place to drop in for
meze and a drink as well as a lavish banquet, with a confident list of
Anatolian wines and attractive cocktails to help guide the way.

Vue de Monde
Level 55, Rialto,
525 Collins St
(03) 9691 3888
vuedemonde.com.au
Chef Hugh Allen
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sat;
Dinner Wed-Sat

Kenzan
For more than four decades,
Kenzan has been feeding
Melburnians skilfully executed
sushi, shabu-shabu, chawanmushi
and tempura in a charming space
that includes tatami rooms, a sushi
bar and an unfailing sense of
peacefulness. A stayer in the
truest sense.
kenzan.com.au

MoVida
There are other outposts of this
Spanish powerhouse around
Melbourne (and elsewhere), but
the graffitied laneway OG still
gets the guernsey. A bar seat is
arguably the best place in the
state for an afternoon drink and
snack, and the commitment to
quality is unwavering.
movida.com.au

CONTEMPORARY

The ear-popping mirrored elevator ride to the Rialto building’s 55th floor is
a portal to the alternate universe that is Vue de Monde. The view? Spectacular
day or night, of course. The wine list? As impressive as it is expensive. The
care and attention from young, charming staff who appear to have arrived
en masse from central casting? Nothing short of first-class. But even with
exceptional supporting players, a restaurant like this must deliver on the
plate. It does. Executive chef Hugh Allen has rescued the VDM experience
from becoming rote, which is no one’s idea of acceptable at these prices.
His ever-evolving tasting menu brims with fresh ideas in clean, elegant and
strikingly plated combinations – wasabi-leaf oil with oysters; truffles shaved
over waygu brisket; a fabulous golden beetroot sorbet; macadamia “tofu”
topped with smoked eel. It really is another monde altogether.

Stokehouse
People have always flocked to
Stokehouse for its dreamy water
views and casually elegant Aussie
beach vibe, but the gorgeous
upstairs restaurant and bar
are equally worth visiting for
a pitch-perfect seafood and steak
menu and service that offers just
the right amount of pampering.
stokehouse.com.au

Tipo 00
Anyone who believes pasta is
just pasta should attempt to get
a table at Tipo 00 where brilliant
traditional pasta-making skills are
combined with a fine-dining level
of finesse that can transform even
the most well-travelled sauces
into something revelatory.
tipo00.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

168

Omnia
625 Chapel St,
South Yarra
(03) 8080 8080
omniabistro.com.au
Chef Stephen Nairn
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sat;
Dinner Tue-Sat

Provenance

Chef Michael Ryan
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Fri-Mon

CONTEMPORARY

There’s a zen-like calm to dinner at Provenance, which unfolds inside
a high-ceilinged heritage bank on the main drag of a well-preserved gold
mining town in Victoria’s high country. The kaiseki-style meal is made up
of 18 small plates, perhaps umami-laden mushroom tofu or fine slices of
meaty, salty duck jamón with intensely flavoured pickled seasonal vegetables.
Each course is, in fact, five or six dishes presented at once on beautifully
imperfect Japanese ceramics – charcoal-grilled yakitori, say, showcasing
chicken from a local farm or vintage beef drenched in dashi butter shot
through with the tang of yuzu. Those in the know stay overnight in the
on-site accommodation, if only to relish the eclectic modern soundtrack
for that little bit longer, as well as the stunning drinks list spotlighting
wines from nearby heroes like Giaconda and stellar house-made amari.

THE
GOOD
TIMES
LIST
169

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

At first glance, you might dismiss Omnia as a flashy South Yarra
clubhouse for the rigorously tanned and ’toxed. But while both the room
(on street level of a luxury apartment tower) and the crowd fully reflect
neighbourhood clichés, the quality of food, service and wine would be
applause-worthy anywhere. Chef Stephen Nairn has a glossy CV (Eleven
Madison Park, Vue de Monde) and brings fine-dining precision to a menu
of beautifully conceived dishes. A fabulous prawn cocktail is constructed
tableside. Barrel-aged anchovies are served with preserved lemon aïoli.
A pine mushroom tart is as pretty as it is sensational to eat. Bistro favourites,
meanwhile – well-sourced steak, excellently cooked Murray cod – are
masterful, especially when served with sides like the not-to-be-missed
potato rösti with sour cream and meticulously diced chives. The voluminous
wine list, along with knowledgeable and personable staff, make this
a trusty local worth crossing town for.

France-Soir
You cannot claim to be a true
Melburnian without having dined
at this tri-colour, neon-splashed
landmark restaurant, where
a spectacular French wine list
is ably supported by classic
steak-frites-and-escargots
stalwarts and cheeky, charming,
accented service.
france-soir.com.au

Gerald’s Bar
A daily-changing menu,
a by-the-glass list that shifts
throughout the night, staff who
are as adept with a quip as they
are at stirring a Martini and an
unerring ability to feel like the
right place at the right time:
Gerald’s performs some kind
of low-key hospitality magic.
geraldsbar.com.au

Grossi Florentino
The Grossi family’s ability to
master a three-part venue
(casual in the Cellar Bar, bustling
in The Grill, occasion dining in the
storied upstairs room) in a way
that honours Italian tradition,
Melbourne modernity and the
fine art of service is worthy of
a standing ovation.
florentino.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY JANA LANGHORST (PROVENANCE) & NIKKI TO (VUE DE MONDE).

86 Ford St,
Beechworth
(03) 5728 1786
theprovenance.com.au

EUROPEAN

VIC

Minamishima
4 Lord St, Richmond
(03) 9429 5180
minamishima.com.au
Chefs Koichi
Minamishima
& Yoshiki Tano
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

JAPANESE

At a time when the world feels a little unhinged, dining at Minamishima
is a kind of balm. Setting foot inside this tranquil, clean-lined and moodily
lit space is like entering a parallel universe where all is well. And it truly
is, whether you’re front and centre at the 12-seat American oak sushi bar
witnessing chef Koichi Minamishima’s artistry first-hand or in the upholstered
serenity of the dining room. The omakase menu is a masterclass in skill and
meticulous attention to detail, featuring a rollcall of sensational produce
(some of it sourced from Tokyo’s famed Toyosu fish market) from Hokkaido
king crab and Japanese waygu to Western Australian marron and Paradise
prawns. Add staff who radiate quiet competency as well as a drinks list that
encompasses artisan sake and big-name Burgundy, and you may just find
your faith in humanity restored.

O.My

AUSTRALIAN

70 Princes Hwy,
Beaconsfield
(03) 9769 9000
omyrestaurant.com.au
Chef Blayne Bertoncello
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Thu-Sun

THE
GOOD
TIMES
LIST

Bar Lourinhã
Bar Lourinhã not only taught
Melburnians how to eat at the
bar, but has also kept them there
for nearly two decades thanks to
the siren song of often astounding
Iberian flavours, brilliant wine and
an unerring, inexhaustible sense
of fun. Style and substance in
equal measure.
barlourinha.com.au

Lurking on Melbourne’s fringe, close to their own farm, the envelope-pushing
brothers Bertoncello are doing things at O.My with a low-waste, vegetableforward philosophy fizzing with creativity. A dark-walled vision of farmhouse
chic, the tight 30-seater offers a dégustation ranging anywhere from 12 to 20
courses, the only constant being incredible sourdough with a caramelised
crust that’s baked daily. Otherwise, expect the unexpected: arrestingly
briny oyster-plant leaves in a sluice of lemon verbena and borage-spiked
buttermilk; skewers of marinated baby vegetables in a sticky onion glaze;
salty swatches of house-made capocollo seasoning lion’s mane mushrooms;
an ethereally light puff-pastry tart of new-season zucchini anchored by
chicken jus. Coravin helps the wine list take an interesting road, aided by
young staff who bubble with enthusiasm over vintage Yarra Valley merlot
and artisan walnut vermouth. The future of fine dining is in good hands.

Carlton Wine Room
A neighbourhood mainstay that
may have you considering switching
neighbourhoods, CWR is a has it all:
from its beautifully crafted wine list
to the Euro-inspired food that pairs
perfectly with it, as well as service
that understands hospitality at
a cellular level.
thecarltonwineroom.com.au

Etta
You might put it down to owner
Hannah Green’s hospitality and her
psychic-level sommelier skills that
always result in the right thing to
drink. Or chef Rosheen Kaul’s knack
for texture, spice and balance.
Whatever the cause, Etta is one
of Melbourne’s great small bistros.
ettadining.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

170

Kazuki’s

Chef Kazuki Tsuya
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Fri & Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

The dramatic transformation that occurs as you step from hectic Lygon
Street into the upholstered serenity of Kazuki’s is one of Melbourne’s
great dining overtures. Calm, knowledgeable waitstaff guide you across
soft mustard carpet, under oversized rice-paper shades, to a linen-dressed
table. Then, the carefully ironed blank slate is lavished with seven-plus
courses of owner-chef Kazuki Tsuya’s intricate and exquisitely balanced
Japanese-European food. It starts with snacks – eight-ish morsels, from
slivers of kangaroo jerky robustly flavoured with gochujang to cool cucumber
with crème fraîche and a dusting of bottarga or an oyster topped with fresh
Tasmanian uni. Similarly finessed dishes follow, like the now-signature
Moreton Bay bug dumplings in a foamed butter sauce, or perhaps a superb
spanner crab omelette with freshly shaved truffle. Wine and sake lists are
as carefully measured as the food and service, and add to the feeling of
Kazuki’s being a beautiful respite from a troubled world.

Lake House
4 King St, Daylesford
(03) 5348 3329
lakehouse.com.au
Chefs Alla Wolf-Tasker
& Brendan Walsh
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Mon;
Dinner daily

AUSTRALIAN

Nearly 40 years since Alla Wolf-Tasker pre-empted fashion by opening her
restaurant by a willow-lined lake, the town of Daylesford is unimaginable
without it. Lake House has grown into a boutique spa-hotel empire, but the
Hamptons-esque dining room – all scatter cushions and country charm
– remains one of regional Australia’s most celebrated destinations. Newly
elevated by produce from the addition of an organic farm and artisan bakery,
the menu’s devotion to seasonality is unimpeachable. Whether it’s a golden
tarte Tatin of winter vegetables intensified by Sherry caramel, or a sweetcorn
croquette with Manchego accompanied by an autumn harvest salsa, every dish
is a beguiling translation of Euro classicism into Central Victorian vernacular.
Appearances matter here, as a theatrical play on peach Melba conclusively
proves. Yet, it’s never at the expense of a commitment to hospitality that runs
as deep as the wine list – a persuasive case in itself for an overnight stay.

Lee Ho Fook
11-15 Duckboard Pl,
Melbourne
(03) 9654 8239
leehofook.com.au
Chef Victor Liong
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch Sat-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

171

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

CHINESE

From punk-like beginnings on Smith Street, chef Victor Liong’s vision has
recalibrated to a dégustation as respectful of traditions as it is defiant.
Faux shark fin constructed of crab in a silken, gelatinous shellfish broth
shimmies past the politics of a heartland dish. “Dances of the Sea” –
drunken prawns, Hunan-style raw salmon with spicy black-bean sauce
and squid sizzled with mustard greens – nods to all points of the Chinese
culinary compass. Liong’s creativity breathes new life into classics like
duck pancakes where rosy-fleshed breast, arriving in a veil of perfumed
smoke, is wrapped in a fried bing with cumquat hoisin. It’s all very
Melbourne, too: the upstairs dining room edging on industrial-chic;
a wine list that’s irreproachable, especially if you worship Australian
belters; the à la carte option at the bar-like chef’s counter downstairs.
It’s a polished expression of self from a chef whose identity and skill
make for a thrilling ride.

PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS (LEE HO FOOK), MARTINA GEMMOLA (LAKE HOUSE) & HUGH DAVIDSON (O.MY).

121 Lygon St, Carlton
(03) 9349 2223
kazukis.com.au

JAPANESE

VIC

Gray and Gray
188 High St, Northcote
breadandwine.com.au
Chef Boris Portnoy
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

EASTERN EUROPEAN

Pining for a pine-mushroom khachapuri? Or superbly textured smoked
kingfish butterbrod, served with a delightfully tart pickled egg? Perhaps
a rib-sticking savoury millet porridge sprinkled with caraway-forward
kharcho salt? If for whatever reason you’ve not been hanging out for all
this Eastern European deliciousness, a visit to chef Boris Portnoy’s superb,
idiosyncratic Northcote diner will certainly change that. Located in a former
solicitor’s office (Gray and Gray – they adopted the name and kept the
decal), this stylish room – all timber, rippled glass, tiled floors and flattering
lighting – offers dishes and techniques rarely seen in Melbourne. Think
excellent flatbread served with “lumpy” butter and pickled green tomatoes,
or parsnip dumplings with caramelised onion and yoghurt. Dessert, an
impressive multi-layered honey cake, is equally fabulous. A deli fridge
stocked full of ethically farmed wines both strange and wonderful only
adds to Gray and Gray’s “not in Kansas anymore” allure.

Grill Americano

ITALIAN

Looking to channel your inner master-of-the-universe over outstanding
Martinis, Barolo by the glass and Josper-grilled steaks as tender as money
can buy? All in an extravagant room with no shortage of royal blue upholstery,
marble, terrazzo and timber? If so, restaurateur Chris Lucas’s pitch-perfect take
on the upmarket, big-city Italian grill will have you grinning like a well-heeled
Chef Douglas Keyte
Cheshire cat. In addition to meticulously sourced steaks at suitably heady
Price guide $$$$
prices, the sprawling menu provides ample opportunities to live large.
Bookings Recommended Cicchetti in the vein of crumbed and fried olives stuffed with chicken, pork
Wheelchair access Yes
and veal reach for the style and substance you'd find at Harry’s Bar in Venice.
Open Lunch and
House-made tagliolini is equally opulent, tossed with raw scampi and saffron
dinner daily
then finished with shaved bottarga. Finely tuned desserts include excellent
tiramisù with a hidden layer of tempered chocolate. Spot-on service from
white-jacketed waiters and close attention to detail – from embroidered
serviettes to scintillating cocktails – make it well worth the splurge.

PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN LANDER (GRILL AMERICANO), PETER TARASIUK (HERO) & EMILY WEAVING (GRAY AND GRAY).

112 Flinders Lane,
Melbourne
(03) 8616 8010
grillamericano.com

Hero ACMI
Federation Square,
Melbourne
(03) 9964 2819
heroacmi.com.au
Chef Karen Martini
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sat

CONTEMPORARY

Melbourne doesn’t have a brilliant track record with restaurants in cultural
institutions. Hero, at Fed Square’s ACMI, bucks that trend emphatically. It’s
a Karen Martini joint for starters, so you get a menu of excellent, shareable,
mostly Italian comfort food. Occasionally, it might stray over the border to
France via a sumptuous chicken-liver parfait with amber-coloured verjuice
jelly or a steak frites with “Café de Hero” butter. Otherwise the menu
involves some hard decisions: mussels in smoked butter and fermented
chilli served with ridiculously crisp potato cakes or vitello tonnato that’s
textured with fried artichokes and capers? Order both. Philippa Sibley is
in the kitchen, too, so dessert is a no-brainer, particularly if there are tarts:
sublime lemon, perhaps, or a knee-weakening date and mascarpone number.
The wine list is as tight as the cocktails and as sharp as the gorgeously
minimalist room. Consider it the dining equivalent of a cinema classic.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

172

Embla

Chef Dave Verheul
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Wed-Sat;
Dinner Mon-Sat

Cooking with fire. Fermentation. Serious attention paid to plant-based
eating. Minimal-intervention wine. These are all pillars of Melbourne’s
current dining scene, but few establishments meld them as effortlessly,
comprehensively and successfully as Embla. The proof? You can come here
oblivious to fads and gnaw your way through beef carpaccio with globe
artichokes and fermented peppers or vadouvan-spiced potato mousse with
crisped carrots and cashews. Then, follow those with a juicy, smoky Berkshire
pork rack and bitter orange ice-cream with wattleseed and white chocolate.
The hearty, visceral enjoyment you get from it all comes from chef Dave
Verheul’s mastery of balance, flavour and simplicity rather than any kind
of dining-trend bingo. Similarly, Embla’s wine list celebrates excellence in
winemaking first and foremost, with the “natural” part of the equation more
side note than focus. Excellent, relaxed but engaged service helps, as does
the dark and handsome room. It’s a study in how to do it right.

Flower Drum
17 Market La,
Melbourne
(03) 9662 3655
flowerdrum.melbourne
Chef Anthony Lui
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Mon-Sat;
Dinner daily

CANTONESE

A visit to Flower Drum will convince anyone that Cantonese cuisine is the
world’s finest. How could you not be swayed by the pearl meat, wok-fried
with spring onion and garlic chives into the textural, smoky essence of edible
luxury? Or the “Dragon Boat” king prawn crowned with minced prawn and
scallop meat, gently electrified by a chilli-spiked bisque? The only drawback
at this Chinoiserie-decorated shrine to Canto cooking is its encyclopaedic
menu, an exquisite form of torture for newcomers. The smart play? Stick to
the classic dishes on which its reputation has been forged: Peking duck, plated
tableside, with a keenly observed ratio of crisp skin to juicy meat, or stuffed
garfish in a silken shiitake sauce. Otherwise, put yourself in the hands of the
suited waiters – many of whom have marked up decades of service in this
august dining room – for the full blaze of fireworks from Anthony Lui’s kitchen.

Gimlet
33 Russell St,
Melbourne
(03) 9277 9777
gimlet.melbourne
Chefs Andrew McConnell
& Colin Mainds
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access No
Open Lunch and
dinner daily

173

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

AUSTRALIAN

Soaring 1920s ceilings. Chequered floors. Leather booths. Masses of glass
and retro designer lighting. Together, they create the big-city vibe at the
heart of Gimlet’s approach and appeal; it feels like it’s always been here.
From the centrepiece marble bar comes the signature cocktail – a light,
fresh Gimlet garnished with Geraldton wax – perhaps best enjoyed with
just-shucked oysters, rye bread and seaweed butter. Easy-going follow-ups
might include a crunchy, puffy gnocco fritto with bresaola and parmesan,
or quartered local radishes with green zucchini cream for dipping. Aged
Muscovy duck, meanwhile, gets zing and contrast from witlof and plum,
while house-made casarecce arrives tossed with spanner crab and tarragon.
For lovers of all things ice-cream, the gelati of the day might be rhubarb,
jasmine rice and candied ginger. Swoon. It appears that Andrew McConnell
has done it again, and Melbourne has a new institution.

PHOTOGRAPHY JO MCGANN (GIMLET) & KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (EMBLA).

122 Russell St,
Melbourne
0455 122 121
embla.com.au

AUSTRALIAN

VIC

Attica
74 Glen Eira Rd,
Ripponlea
(03) 9530 0111
attica.com.au
Chef Ben Shewry
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Tue-Sat

AUSTRALIAN

Attica has set the benchmark for combining humour with culinary rigour and
native Australian ingredients with deliciousness and surprise. Ben Shewry
offers a journey into intriguing foods, sourced from seas and plains, the
Kimberley to the Atherton Tablelands. You may have tried saltbush but what
about Atherton almond, quandongs or gubinge? A series of platters, tiny
tastes and crocodile ribs glide into the luxury of freshwater crayfish,
precious pearl meat and an imaginative take on caviar, along with “’roo frites”
comprising – yes, really – kangaroo skewers and fries. Interactive, theatrical
desserts change with the season (think Summer Camp tartlets on vintage
glass plates with a finger-lime “friesling” slushie), but good times are
guaranteed. There’s a sturdy, quirky uniqueness about this Ripponlea
destination, shaped by Shewry through international triumphs and local
lockdowns since 2005. Its ongoing journey towards acknowledgement,
understanding and recognition of Aboriginal Australia deserves constant
applause, as does Shewry’s persistent inventiveness.

Brae
4285 Cape Otway Rd,
Birregurra
(03) 5236 2226
braerestaurant.com
Chef Dan Hunter
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sat;
Dinner Tue-Wed

Di Stasio Carlton
224 Faraday St, Carlton
(03) 9070 1110
distasio.com.au/carlton
Chef Federico Congiu
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Sun;
Dinner Wed-Sun

AUSTRALIAN

Set on 23 acres, Dan Hunter’s ethereal homestead now feels both more
intimate (down to 30 seats from 40 in early 2020) and vital than ever.
The meal unfolds with an intricate parade of seasonal surprises over at least
three hours. It might begin with jewels of frozen yoghurt, rainbow-trout roe
and finger lime on a strip of radicchio, and finish with the “Berry Ripe” –
a textural rubble of bitter chocolate and coconut, strawberry and sorbet.
In between is an uncompromising array of organic ingredients from fermented
rye to wild-shot deer, all artfully plated and served by down-to-earth staff.
Every pour on the drinks program comes with a story: Spanish cider from
hand-picked apples, perhaps, or nutty Kyoto sake. A stroll around the property
reveals the heart of the operation, from thriving orchards to a glassy dam.
It’s an idyllic slice of Australia, and a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience.

ITALIAN

Yes, Di Stasio is doing pizza, but don’t expect any culinary dumbing down.
If anything, the empire encompassing 30-year-old icon Café Di Stasio,
Bar Di Stasio and Di Stasio Città has perfected its art-drenched vision in
Carlton. Boasting a transportive, Roman-style piazza and neon-accented
brutalism within, this restaurant-as-stage-set passion project elevates
pizza to luxurious heights. Lobster with lardo and fior di latte says plenty
about its chutzpah, although a classic Margherita hits the pleasure receptors
with equal aplomb. There’s plenty more at this Fellini-worthy party – ravioli
in a tangy whey dressing with sage and pecorino, say, or charry pancettabound spatchcock, right through to salted fior di latte soft-serve mined
with bits of olive-oil cake. From the waitstaff clad in pistachio linen to
Martinis served with extra olives on ice, the latest member of the Di Stasio
famiglia is a full-throated, exquisitely detailed triumph.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

174

VICTORIA
NNER

Tedesca Osteria

AUSTRALIAN

1175 MorningtonFlinders Rd, Red Hill
tedesca.com.au
Chef Brigitte Hafner
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Fri-Mon

Aru
268 Little Collins St,
Melbourne
(03) 9939 8113
aru.net.au
Chef Khanh Nguyen
Price guide $$$
Bookings
Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch daily;
Dinner Mon-Sat

175

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Brigitte Hafner’s Red Hill endlessly acclaimed passion project (and GT’s 2022
Restaurant of the Year) remains a benchmark for excellence with no evidence
of ennui. Abandon all thoughts of hurry. Spend the first half hour marvelling
at the hearth-dominated kitchen that segues seamlessly into a magnificently
moody dining room that celebrates the hand-crafted, from staff uniforms to
handwritten menu. The five-odd courses depend entirely on the surrounding
27-acre biodynamic farm and local small producers. There’s no denying the
peak comfort factor of tortelloni stuffed with mortadella and mascarpone
finished with sage and brown butter, or the salty-crisp skin on coral trout
after its turn in the oven. Fruit tarts worthy of a Disney movie close the show.
It’s a free-spirited dining experience, backed by the pithiest of wine lists,
where a mid-meal stroll around the garden is actively encouraged. A dream,
both for Hafner and those lucky enough to dine here.

CONTEMPORARY

Quite simply, this is one of Melbourne’s best places to be: a stylish
bar-cum-casual-diner livened by wood fire and fermentation, curing
and smoking, spotted gum and sandstone. The inspiration (and name)
comes from Indonesia’s Aru Islands, a long-time seafaring destination for
Southeast Asian trade. Chef Khanh Nguyen’s lengthy menu kicks off with
fun, fabulous snacks – a duck sausage sanga on white bread with peanutty
hoisin, say, or betel leaves bearing wagyu tongue skewers dressed in
Vietnamese sate sauce and pepperberry. Then there’s the forbidden rice
sourdough, sticky with palm sugar and served with smoked cultured butter.
Of course, the bánh-mì-flavoured pâté en croûte has become an instant
classic, but a small plate of mushrooms, tofu and fried Chinese doughnuts
does the veg-focused trick with equal oomph. And what of the salty-sweet,
crunchy-soft corn and spanner crab fried rice? And the clever drinks? And
the smart staff and flexible vibe? The list goes on and on. Just get here.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN (ARU & DI STASIO) & COLIN PAGE (BRAE & ATTICA).

STAT E

WI

Introduction

W

elcome to the 2023
Gourmet Traveller
Restaurant Guide,
heralding the best dining
experiences to be found across Australia in
the year ahead. Our team has travelled far
and wide to visit – and revisit – dozens of
restaurants, seeking out the most
exceptional meals and memorable
experiences in each state. To earn a place
in this guide, a restaurant must deliver on
multiple fronts: service, ambience, décor,
value, and of course, what’s on the plate.
Creativity and consistency are valued in
equal measure. From dégustation-only
fine-diners, to casual wine bars serving
sensational snacks, this guide is not limited
to a single style of dining. But those
featured represent the very best of what
they do and deliver on what they promise.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.

THE YEAR IN DINING
One step forward, two steps back. That has
been the frustration facing the hospitality
industry this year, as staff shortages, illness, and
$17 cabbages have made running a restaurant
ever more challenging. Last summer heralded
the popping of Champagne corks as diners
embraced a more-is-more approach to dining
with Gatsby-levels of gusto. But as the days
grew shorter, that enthusiasm cooled and diners
became more discerning about where they
went and how often. By August, a rising tide of
cancellations had swept the industry as diners
tightened their spending with each and every
rate hike. All of this has put huge pressure on
both kitchens and front-of-house teams as they
try to navigate these ever-shifting sands, making

consistency the new Holy Grail of hospitality.
It has seen some previous standouts falter,
unable to keep pace and deliver on what they
promise. Elsewhere, experience has proven
the Midas touch, returning old favourites to
career-best form. And throughout it all, new
restaurants continue to join the ranks and
bring fresh and unique ideas to the table.
Once again, creativity and resilience have
proven the key skills necessary to survive in
this climate. As summer approaches, many
are pinning their hopes on a long and bright
season that will see dining rooms full and a more
stable economic outlook. As always, we seek
to support the industry by celebrating the joy of
dining and singling out those we trust to deliver
consistent and exceptional experiences that
are worth both your time and money.

INTRODUCING GOOD TIMES
This year, we have introduced a new list
for our two biggest cities, Melbourne and
Sydney, specifically designed to celebrate
those restaurants that can be relied on to
always deliver a good time. Whether dining
à deux, or in a larger group, these are the
places that draw a vibrant crowd any night
of the week, bringing soul to the city and
surrounding suburbs.

EDITOR
Joanna Hunkin
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Matty Hirsch
STATE & TERRITORY EDITORS
VIC & TAS Michael Harden
NSW Karlie Verkerk
ACT Tristan Lutze
QLD Fiona Donnelly
SA Katie Spain
WA Max Veenhuyzen
REVIEWERS
Alexandra Carlton, Jane
Cornes, Richard Cornish,
Alix Davis, Larissa Dubecki,
Michael Harry, Matty Hirsch,
Callum McDermott, Joanna
Savill, Paul Wood.
PRICE GUIDE
$ = mains under $30
$$ = mains up to $45
$$$ = mains up to $60 or
dégustation up to $150pp
$$$$ = mains more than
$60 or dégustation more
than $150pp

HOW THIS WORKS
The guide is divided by states, with an individual
winner leading each. All remaining entries are
listed alphabetically and not ranked. All of the
restaurants reviewed were visited anonymously
between March and August 2022 with reviewers
paying their own way.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

176

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Regé-Jean Page

THE LONGINES
MASTER COLLECTION

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