/
Text
How to make and trim your own hats. [1944]
Powell, Vee Walker
New York, New York: Journal of living publishing corporation,
[1944]
https://digital.library.wisc.edu/1711.dl/NXHLV5RKH3FEN8X
This material may be protected by copyright law (e.g., Title 17, US Code).
For information on re-use, see
http://digital.library.wisc.edu/1711.dl/Copyright
The libraries provide public access to a wide range of material, including online exhibits, digitized
collections, archival finding aids, our catalog, online articles, and a growing range of materials in many
media.
When possible, we provide rights information in catalog records, finding aids, and other metadata that
accompanies collections or items. However, it is always the user's obligation to evaluate copyright and
rights issues in light of their own use.
728 State Street | Madison, Wisconsin 53706 | library.wisc.edu
,
-
-
S
Sn
eee
Eo
=
a
y
%
\j
i
4\
eT
;
7 655
P6
;
1944
fl
|
po
|
i
|
{oe
|
)
|
1
|
|
|
|
:
#
—
i
f
e
:
9
i
'
Wy
|uf
\
'
P
S
y
aa eee.
4
Library
of
:
Ghiversity
\
4
i
the
fe
of Wisconsin
a
LE
{q
i
ii
!A
}
;
}
pcm
¢
f
i
i 4 {
y
a
i.
.
a
i
|)
yf
Aik
bs
‘
“g
m
ee
‘4
fs
|
PARE
Fen
LET CINDER z See
cae @
SIAL
AN LR Ey
ea
Syne
Peat
Te
€
;
| an
et
‘
:
4
The
pe" Ae
ais
oh
+ ¢
Bas
i
Bo
y
y
;
Bet
Cs
ay
=
ee
a
eS
- |
@)
@
ae
eco
a
A
Aa
a
I
ay
e
:
’
|
Wate
ae‘
e
age *
.
‘
=“
1
pm TERRA
oe
Bomar: |
Be Tae
b it
;
Naa
pV
,
me
:
be
ave
3
;
\
1
ae
oe cota
|
ae
mnenn tio
i
UC
Z)
whe
a
;
ae
yee»
Mee. |
y
oe, ef
g
4 ' Meee PLETE
i
a
2d
aoe
a
ae
hms
TR
|| Pas
Heme
aa
OT
i”
{ef
a
i
hea
auamame 7|
a | : at 4 a
ieee:
8
a
eee
eee
ey
Leas
aa
SN ata ae
A
es,
ie
ACG
ie
A
a
:
a
bow
a
ee
ae
0,
aoe
Reem
4j
eee ‘a
aa
a
A
INVA.
4
|=
De
Ue
-
| «ae
|cen
Bs
eed
=
+.
al
ae
EARN
ey
ar
a
UCN
NNN Ur aN
ee
i
ES
ne ae, fy} Mars
RMTALT!
}
© IN
4
( Wes
aD
Z =
ae
ce
|
gh
a
sa
be
vom
AEal aSee
Miia
ae
Fon esa
it
roe en
Sa mn
PIN
INSTRUCTIONS
A
- SEW
:
Off-the-Face
and PATTERNS
PUT TOGETHER
:
Brims,
Jockey
ee
Hats. BAGS TO MATCH
ape
es
:
Scores of TRIMMING
e
Hats.
;
from start to finish. How
ae
|
en
ve i
to
—
© Calots, Straws, Sailors, Half-Hats,
ae
Snoods.
Dutch
Bonnets,
at
Knitted
and
;
a
— Over-Arm Bag. Crochet Over-the-Shoulder
cues
e
;
Bee
IDEAS and Instructions for Summer, Spring and
aaa
g
i
:
;
Hae
Veilings, Flowers, Hat Pins, Ribbons.
Beadings.
Embroideries
e
and Sequins.
Sia
iD
Sens!
ae
|
oe
a
Oe a |
b
|
a
7% ae:ay
@
i
e
5
jay
.
ASTRAL
INA
CET
ane
MRAM
PSUR
i
riHh
i
LOAN
i
T
HMCES
nay hae WIEN
et
TeORCL E EUIC RNS
aeCa ie
AP ELS
ON Ch
SST
aa
a
Leva
sa lh hoy
DENPea
Ae
Maha
OCU
sia
uKN
My
kata
nn By
MOMMY
CO
epPee UR eR
SY EShea LR
Cea
ena NUNRE mee
Cee
tac
URNA RAEN WAGE UMC
ADE Cane el cenasa fan Omer
uct
VARNAta tia nhs
RM ayes
ue
ie
Sih 3 A.)
an an
Va
FENN
‘
NCR
i Be.)
ene Viet
CU
LGC
STN
ig
Wats
CaT
iat(ies
Aen
Dili Masi
wean
yo
oi
Way
ec
‘By
Day
NRL eT
RaELOY
gue) cet
AAI
Ne
my
an
RT
EN ae NI
GAO
RE
Bae
ce
Phan
a eS)
Me
ON
ATA
I MRL
Mera
ee
f
k
Me
NACE
STDENIGISAah net
Ei
it
ee assed
ster) OA tie
eR
Daadca
mea ae
ee
CERIN
a Being
ty | Ny
pas
OE
RETRY EE
aOR
Cy Va
Ren
(otis
aan PAE
Re Te
Pou
Wyuna nay
UH
PEN
MO Nua
iL) Sea A eS aNUON
eS
deny C0
ESME
Mee AT ALAMOLaNU Aan i
Hat Ae
aEe
i
a
RRR
PCa|
aR
HATE
MSW G Os sh Ratan
e Ue
ey tis)
nie
VA CBRE RH SARE Ie SRP I
Roper
BR
tL Heat RSA
PRR OR OG NEOMSHRTAN VIM CR MIAO
Fa
ee
Ua
Mi
A IVARE
ea
Rte
irra
NUR
TAC
MA
ata crt
anece ci
bana peat,
ae Ro
Ra
ee
NO
Ae Up ee
CEE
Sa
aera
ei
Meta ca
it
Coan Ua
A AAU
Raa ea
Sea AG, Gate JU
Fy aeheROUTEayaa
ig
cna.
car ich
US
caine
his Gs
oO
OY
i
Nea
ea
ara
eon
eR
eal
Le
Urs
yl CaN
Sag
AN
SAG UMD
eat Al
emaaases§ oathCae
oa vay La
enn
NEMO By
NW
ee
amen
eS CALA AS ll
Ga St ND PU
cite Ki
23
cianCs
areata
dil yittamaiceinaets ee
ne
i
eee)
ag
yaar mecatuen eS (M.A) Ta tal earth eal aes eae
NRsalt EACH
ANCL UNIO DS TAT Se i
Saan
Nice nae Siam ie ON:
SH
pea LM
i
;
SM Oe RUM
aana
i
Uae
EC)
Oe
aaa
R RM MEAG
N a uA
| Dan
i
MR arin
THAN a iu CIE
NOU
Cage
Murs emt A0 10)Src ay AV
aa BN ica
‘i
Pore sean
SS
ETNA)
iE Nadel gnu’
AN SUC
a NaWeSuamihANauia
PERS INIT
LaIES aa
Uca MON
CONAN NOMiiier ee
tail
e in
MORPH RAN
IMR
ee TSUNA
CONT MRAM
MRT
Chia
ibe A Uda
Gin Acie
f
EOC
NG
Se
GUAT
Roar
CR
CATO
er
RDS
dor
RGR AN (end Ree
sid
ee Aa UA yen EOE Caan
eyMUNeaLAE
oh
sii
We
eet
Ee
AE WA elope get
MR
Rg
an MSRP aTERChen
Ce
AIG NC etU TIARA eco a ao St a
MATAR
ks. ay
TR
a
Pays eke
a
aa
ten
Aaa
RDN
MAING AMO TehneHe Nigt yale @oRA aI T Nd ae PSF S M I Nay oe) She
uM bikin
:
SEC
CHS Be ane
tte EN Foe RS aa
Nara) UNM
Oe
Fieaiuonnie cs
SP ait)
i
Pk
MUSA Cis
ae
CANE
i
RTE ema ei AM UN
aie
sh
TOURekNN aeTd aeae gS
Nau
ETH IRVAT SLICE
at gtact apa sO aN EN AUS NAAN VG CUM
BAUD
ii
eA ag
aM
meer at a
ee
‘
MeN
a eR
Ne RUB
PRO GRR aa
iS
DUCT
UO PIDSSN Oebn
TU
UEte a
us
:
Panos te Seo Woo,
NLR AR ON ay isles MPG) G1 Abel EAPO He
a NS So? aOR
RUE
Sh Sir
i
nt RSE
er eV
fi
POH
SN
y
fo
‘
Reese
RRSAaa
i;
aCe
UMN
SRR ae
ese itarry ae WAM ieete
FE erth
CATall Pea
eee
;
noe
ct
Ri
aeRRC a HUMMeeATE NA HLA HES ode My
e UACa
IER MORE
PERE MINCen
A ME
ce
i
4
j ee
Un
Ac
ANS
pe
acis ISRa SLI 5
vines
i
ash
aes
:
NS
aRi
a
PESet Ac Aa
Ne
BPH STAG
,
ah
;
i
Peay
ARTUR TA Va
adie FRSA
GON aR Eau SPAS TIO) Sauls STR RAGE GN aml
Pewee pa Neeg
a a) 34 ay
Wea, PARSCaTI
aE ah AH ASA Seen
SI
ae
NY
OH
ara
SCR RU eae Mt
eee tC ar
SCA UR etcPee
Bae
UT RUE RCI
ik A
Ue
he
Wogan
GLAMT MSINBUANL
ROE Nae
(PRI MM
TUDURI
TUR ae
amt
‘
oe Mak
a ket
AG ee
ale AN La
apiSak
sc
hi G4 MH
atk rakes ths tu egal
Ae
p
Jag
NIN Aa Be
E
Ea
Neh
Kan HN hd
Ree
aa
Rai) /
at bw
R
acest OPN
MN UNTER SYA
HIE
ORS RPEV EE
LS et
RWS Msile hE
es
STRPEAAT Wiviesimetigeeroe bt
RRR
a eur.
o
UG
ee
UNAIRED
ENR We
NNN
RSCG
pEOUT
Lap ati
of. i ae
Sree
aaa sia
EUIMRMT ice
SN
,
)
ESEtae
YE)
ONG]
2
aN oie «ea US) 2 yk
ay ule.
APMED ANU
PURER
a
a
area A ESN
RAM
OHS MSU
bs
Nee
Vas
ico)(len i Nee PANre
KU AGs
les megs
ede
NUR
OR es
/8
lune MianMee oc
ns
ER
nau i,
Ra
CU
eA ash ier
SME
tS SR. ate
fant
aM
NRE ada Ir
gyn
MOR Te ANCE
EMAC
PN
hand a:
Sales
eeaneOO
ae ee
he Hy
ha ee
A Ea
Mcerniaene
Hai a
Ape
Naan tae
MRREOD Mura N RHA USURNENA MEA Acai ULcr ti yi
eM
Resi mTOR
Ate
Baie havi
Par
dla HRs
ETA
Hy
A Re Gee
;
SUN
Par iageatee
VN
PORN eu
a edeGe Gy WayNR.
mica NBora
TN
PAIN
Ac TIN
NUESTRA
ON aN COM
SLRS
MCS
Ashe oat
NS
2 RENE
SRG
ONES ANT RE
OR Rg
in att
nT Tou so etidiu iy
era
Bee cima
RETR
Ar AI
UNG ee
VAM GLa
Se
Pe
Mawal
MeN oRieer
a MRR
aPe
evn MuNU
At tal
IRTCIRANL
2
aKa
Ne
SLIP SEAMS
STAA LS
Si
aah) ne
" lend
ea
rite
ES
Lime
tae an
DE ac SEEN Me ay MAUR
Mace GOR
a rhe
copsUaty lin) (Bian
aisle et Hunde
SAUNA ORES ANAT
Teru vantnar Mary
ee
We
COST MN
cee
es SARITA
UCU
Vie pas
Ray
PP MRA
Pa
alBG
ae
MURS
R Ie AC UREA
RRS
ace Ue
iit
3
UCL
MMR
nei intact
uN
Vidi
SSMU
crise
voere
acWayvl"
Mie
Aa)"
DSU
See
Oe
ERs een VATA
ania ae Hse i ee
ReaD
UPR
UE e rae
AIleMaer Cl
gSi
ALAN ATTA UIST
IRT a or alate EUNi
Ges
Uti PARR
MEATS
ACR
CULT
Apacs ine
tise WOU
UR aE er Ty
aN He Re
een
Rea gat
PO
Que
RO
at CMa
. pee
a Pa
ryRID SLURRY
UMCROR MCR
utes MRA
DAN NG Ou
neon
BPA
i Be
ns
SESSA He
i Aye
NNER NN BRET
ie
. oSHS
i aioe cD a MR :y atcWaa
ge Mae an ae2 ee
MW ER A RN Es SCOne
Uae ce ae
RD EET
Heer aamra Ny METRE
ot ee ee My PA
Lane
the
aeMarder Pe
ihc Hi muaiNe a
aly.
OOe AUN
GIG
aI RRR
\
i
;
NU a VAS
Ces
Hay i
UVa
iia
BO og Mie URN
“ iy re Hea ASA Seer
eee
ee
PRR
Lesa
Rae
a i Mie Re nig ‘i ae haan al ee A ae ST Ata
ae Rae ea
8 Sea HE es
LS GUIS etna Reg cans HORS SB Tish
BULLS WNT Raed ot AOS
PEC
Ren SURE UA a
WK ee PR
eeu
Peseta
| ah ie
ae
CG
ROD St ai ica
COE
edit
: a
Pe PURO
1)
5)
VERMA
oeeanes
reteeee
Bet He
eee
, Be
Wk
UE
iN
PMRROR
atte
GU
ak
He Ro
a SCOTTYgheeLe SALMAN
Cans Ral ORTON
RUMOR
MH UR ORcetcoMe
TNA
CC Mze aneRTT OR me COR TB acuSNM
a Aig AVI
UR CLReh, fo
el
Me
OMS
aR anit
ni
iy
ish
cea
TOK Ihc, See LRN
aman at
v3
EB Mres ue
PAY
arm urna INE 4 msNSD Frick
Na eaaia
eth Ara CCE
EA Sn cant) Man sae
oe
NCTC MET Cec ROL MeI NOT ee ULM wits ih ye eeRE nh HA UN Aas lg
CP a mRuE DAM RU cana
TAR
PrP NAVE UI nai Ant uNsnaEe vastah \ Siac cts tril Ui
hata dS)
ON NIC
eS
CO
a
ay
i
ik
ae
he CT
a
Ue tind Mes
Mea NeUNDE
MA ee
oe
aeOh eae
NER
res
To
A
i
ee a uea ety
aig
ee
Satie AU aan
carcrue
MTECa OID aere aAs ncar
a MBL a eatcot eeees halideUhata Nona MUD emia aiar Balen eh
eG
a
ia
Pema ees
thst aia a a pias Ie apa td
ag RC eee ae Hane Par a VM DNTGMU eee
Cane
SIA an
ven NN SM
RMN LMTYAN
AH woh bh area
rete
ee
BA
Ne
De onNe yrH aS
‘
HOW
TO
MAKE
YOUR
OWN
By
VEE
WALKER
a
‘
POWELL
» S
es J é pa
“Eye \
aoe
Pe
|
px
ONGA
fe
OF
HATS
v
ee A
JOURNAL
and TRIM
LIVING
Re
| eer
PUBLISHING
NEW
YORK
CORPORATION
by Journal
Copyright 1944
of Living Publishing
Corporation
New York, N. Y.
All rights reserved
Acknowledgment is due Sylvia Z. Fox for her drawings
and J. & P. Coats Knit-Cro-Sheen for the crocheted hats
Printed
in
the
United
States
of America
t
es
5
(V4
‘PION
ues,
et
oft
ee
COLLEGE
Oy,
¢ CONTE
#
I—THE
Os
How
to develop
*'SCOnSip
4
we
mss
STYLE
ELEMENT
IN
a sense of style and
M
,.
n.
RES
a
ys
MME siry gp, cUkTOM
EEE
Mesoaie
CHAPTER
a
PAs
sles
ait
at
e LIN E
a.
design. Hat Tines::Headsize
anes
and
to use buckram,
chiffon, sizing,
CHAPTER
. . . . «23
90
SB
crinoline, wire, glue. Millinery needles and thread, starched
hat blocks. Millinery
II—MILLINERY
equipment.
MATERIALS
How
.
.
of materials:
material. How
to make a Dutch
medium,
headsizes.
Ee
to steam-press.
. ysiiiss,
2
ii iSim,
.
16 72%
a
to choose the
felt, fur, wool, cotton felts, straw. How
Classification
large
;
ee
CHAPTER II—BASIC MILLINERY SUPPLIES.
How
es ean
nonhead-
size hats. Eye lines. The hat block.
>
>
699
bonnet for mother and daughter. Patterns. Small,
Sequins
and
embroidery.
CHAPTER IV—WOOLFELT BAGS...
s..’
ze
S
&
. ¢ . 6.
ge
.
Instructions, patterns, and diagrams
for overarm
pouch bag,
collar box, and other
pouch bags.
CHAPTER
ee
V—PROFESSIONAL
When
to use and
how
to block
a hat. How
‘_..
How
to
to make a lining. How
trimming
he
Wao:
Rae
How to make
to trim half-hats.
ee
to
brimme
spools
and
cut brim from
i
ts.
ae
so (so Duuatoee
e ) we
-
foundations for half-hats. How
curvette hats. How
How
so
to sewin ahe adsize ribbon.
a
sens
eee
mbine materials.
Blocking the brim. Hoy
Off-the-face brim. Suggestions for
ee
CHAPTER VI—HALF-HATS .
ati
to shrink to size. Fancy blocks made
boxes. How to make down-brim wap
crown.
OF
to cut bias material.
wire straw and felt brims. How
How
DETAILS
to make ear-muff, Dutch half-bound,
AO
PAGE
CHAPTER VII—TRIMMINGS ....
How
to make and use
tubing. How
to use
ie
eee braided, grosgrain
to sew on flowers
veils, veils for’ pillbox
How
MA
and
covered hae
bandeaus.
and veiling, The
bumper
Tricks with hatpins. How
a aie
How
to combine
to change a
ae
and use
Ruffle and chin
flowers
for a bridesmaid
celts
to make
tie-tack method.
brims. How
maline. Maline cocktail hat: Ideas
ae tedls
and
veiling.
hat. How
to make
hat by changing trimming.
How to make, felt appliqué, flower and leaf design. “French Room” trim. Taffeta
satin, felt: bows.
Using
inexpensive material. Built-up
foundations. How
your own’ snood 6f velvet, veiling, or flowers. Fur and straw hats. How
hat out of abhon
ayers
CHAPTER
VII—HOW. Tt O
What
AND
RENOVATE
to do with old ornaments, fur felts, wool felts. How
and.material
Complete
iby-step
:
REMAKE
hats. How
to reuse trims, clean hats. How
....
“possibilities.
wees
“Complete
“showing
oH
He
a
S82
ue :
straw
hats.
Remaking
‘CHAPTER
ee
to reblock felt, frame.
covered
frames.
“Ee.
we
“How
Bey
. 64
to Change”
chart.
Foundations
No.
1 and
ee
ee
ee
‘
to use ready-made
FRAMES
frames. How
Don'ts.” .
2.06550
CHAPTER XI—-FRAMES—AND
ee i
af for
making
HOW
and covering.
that! yecome you-—commonsense
side trims.
to cut patterns
i oe
he tad
at
F crocheting
tings
TO
How
from
es
a frame
brim.
How
to make a cover band. “Do's
MAKE
to make
in choosing
YOUR
OWN.
70
to
and
.
.
75
pillbox and visor hats. Hats
your hat. Novel cut-out crowns
.
and
3
CHAPTER XII—CROGHET BN
ctions f
coe
i
Mae” aki
“Wee Per
Vr
... .
ae
cover frames, flat crowns, round crowns. How
tae
Warn
Business
instructions and diagrams for six-section crown, all-in-one crown. Chart
remake possibilities.
X—READY-MADE.
How
We
59
;
‘
Fey rs a
ee
.
to remake felts and straws.
CHAPTER IX—HOW TO MAKE HAT FOUNDATIONS
i
a
remake chart. How to make seven “old” hats into smart new styles. Stepinstructions. Sizing
f
to make
to make
oe
2 ae,
scilaigftrban,
ne eS
Dutch
ys oe
hat bands, Ratpips. Over-the-shoulder bag.
Braye
READY REFERENCE GUE).
We
ee
atthe
cap, over-thaige Hat, half-hat.
4
©...
OA
o sci
es Se
as
Ha:
. he
2...
90
c
ee
Gt
fe
>
see Simee
“OR 3 * ee
x
ple
-
ae
ee
:
<
<a
—-
Seri: aes
GPL
\=¥
So"ppsChapter One
how
star's
a handful
what
small
each
for their dramatic effect— and how
for
the
realized
MILLINERY
IN
ELEMENT
room,”
a “French
if you've
/ ge WeAsse
=
got
ensemble.
is an
costume
you will be able to achieve
is
This
for your-
self ~ once you have made your first hat.
feathers ~ a bit of velvet and
and
{
ie i a
ribbon — could be worth the price tag displayed? If you know anything about ma-
terials,
ee
Beet:
/ Age)(ous
*
7
instance? Did you wonder
of felt and
2
eee
tS LIN,
Se.
you ever price the hats in an ex-
clusive shop ~in
te.
a)
.
some clever designer, using
of line, color, material, work-
Just as
knowledge
into
factors
has
trim,
and
manship
can
so
design,
exclusive
an
these
combined
amount of “coverage” in a hat, you must
be able to deduce that the price tag in-
you.
volves something else besides material,
labor, and selling costs. Of course it does
pew look—a_ different appearance ~ a
glorified presentation. It is very real to a
eet
~ and that element is style.
There should be nothing awe-inspiring
style-conscious woman, even though style
is almost intangible when we seek to
observation
styl~ eby
Not
only
her
develop
can
woman
Every
“‘style.
the word
about
or mysterious
of
it will
but
be
fun as well. You will find inspiration in
movies, museums,
society
weekly
visit
fashion magazines and
to
the
Wel
movies,
it.
cea ies aiainee
Peta
re
oe
CoeeeoD
|
Te
it comes to telling
'™- Ze <
why a
Sayer
oon
hat looks
“smart,”
a
er
ee
id
‘aah
vee
to give the customer
we simply
know
In
your
that it is ~ or that it isn't. (Men, by the
notice
how
way,
newspapers.
of
pages
ies
analyze
comparison.
and
is it educational
sense
It is designed
carefully hats and accessories are chosen
so often
have
a surer
sense
SE
Sens
eS
2
fo
STYLE
THE
Bhs
Meee
ire
ee
seas
CO) Gee
of
Vie
Pes
ewes SOE
Paes
SA,
oF
pumps" SD eet
oe
j
BX
ul
ty
ise
Borg tept
ea
a
See
s ee LLyy ROS
ORS ae
eee
gegensae
34
\o
<
Meroe
ae
ees
neh ;
OG
f
See
yee
Beasan
amRAD >
Y Lo
be.
‘ 2 OES
Did
a
a
atthe!§
‘
a
Fe
of style
than women!)
1
om
hs
a
a
Ws
eS)
OO Sars
yD
gl ae
, ie
\
ee
it
Ws
f07~
oe aA q ve.
CS
ay
M
Ere ORC
Pienaar
iy
Bowler
eo
a
i es
YP
tA
"a:
Ce
;
:
Bete
tg
@
Ae
(
|
SB
\
Z
}
|
line
berets,
We
the hat
much
We
A
es
always
velopment;
“a
7
new
trims
the
and
process
that we
a French
*-
materials
are
>
all come
sat
brims
to be
ae
ae:
fh,
fr
%
+
—_"
;
&
meets
tea:
Z
ee
Jase
ae,
Ba
Ti
i ae
Ae
a
wo
Wa
se ea
(
ip
)
aah
:
ieee
Rea ron o
Re
a
Be
oe
NN
ee
whore
ro
e
ee
so :
:
,
Non Headsize Hat
2
eee
* age
—
ea
ayes
de-
x
The
;
of
(or lines) remein static throughout a
period of years. Hats that survive season
and
when
gs
apie’
in
etc.
hat, naturally,
XY
of tech-
invented’; but on the whole, silhouettes
after season,
small, the
ae
ae
tionary change.
are
ago
oe
ae
nique
pillboxes,
on these little hats were the same width
brims that we were used to seeing; they
oe
oe
change— methods
sailors,
of years
was
changes through the years, but contrary
to most theories, it is a gradual and evolu-
do
/
Oe
farther up on the head.
ee
Hats
-
eal
es
not so much a change in line as it was a
of a hat, of course, plays a
in its style. This varies and
part
]
change in the size of the crown. Because
HAT LINES
The
[A
=
3
a number
7
large
rae:
ae
V4,
designer introduced the ‘doll hat.” It
swept the millinery world by storm. It was
f Xe
j
i
ee
rie.
\ a
The Doll Hat: One major change occurred
ioe
=
Was
reae
%,
turbans,
|
\
Ae
5
spe
;
f
ae]
2
ee
7
iy
Se
re
.
sc
.
ea
TE
es
} Sais
familiar with, are known as classic styles.
Each year there is a fresh avalanche of
.
gif
oS
ee mage
:
os
S
Re
*
gt
ww
ca,
a
{ ee
_
ze
&E
eg
ae
42
ere
i
AQ )
—)
paperes
rae
Os
0
=
a \
ee IO
ee
RR
28 ig
oe aes
ia
|e
"
“
NE ONE
takerSei
cy TO oeMn a ees
ee
an
ancl
BBR
IERE OAS
Pei
fc
oo
WWW
Say
ee
\>
AMI’
\
BEE
Pirneniiian, henn tdne
iVf
.
(\N_A
‘a
f
TEA BEG ES OR:
}r
kw
oN
j
Fe Fie
pf
Tae |
;
CY
Sie Se
‘
pene
Ae
— eer
Cee)
Sa
=
eer
lease aa
_
ae
oe
om
met be wy
irae
TY
‘
s Rica i
Mee
BBB
Peas
‘ascatie*)'s
ff Gey
GE
.
4
vas
Ba
——
a
4
tea
Sp.
3 rae
y
ieee
Sh
to
SRE 2
PS\cee
1
i
a
es
RO
ae ae
ee
ae
.
Hat
ZA
=
(and inci-
AND NONHEADSIZE
HATS
can wear a ‘“nonheadsize”’ hat,
because it is so shallow that it will fit all
If the hat is perched
forward on the top of the head, the fitting
is made
eats
Scams
in the bandeau
"NI
7
which
\I
Rees a
fe
l A
|
\
a
i
Be
Se
a
ae
=
pre
at
Casual
or Swagger
Hat
anchors the hat to the head. If the hat is
wornon the back of the head, it is held by
pins, chin veil, or any other arrangement
that will make it stay on the head.
If these crowns were larger and deeper,
they would fit over the large part of the
head. In this case they would be headsize
hats, and each one would have to be made
to fit an individual headsize.
Lots of older women
favor headsize
hats because they cover the hair and because of the comfort and stability involved.
As far as style is concerned, one of the
best headsize hats is a casual or swagger
type hat. The crowns on these hats are
deftly
blocked
and manipulated;
the
brims have a subtle swing. Even though
they are headsize, they don’t look heavy.
Nonheadsize hats usually show a great
of hair.
If your
for, a nonheadsize
well-groomed
os
z
a
4
Me
\
& 4
ee
deal
ou
.
4,
Sige
©
\
NE
HEADSIZE
adjustment
|
:
The radical change in size
headsizes.
I
ef
\
dently in line) came in too quickly to remain for very long. Doll hats went out
overnight, but their influence remained
and the milliners struck upa happy compromise which persists to the present time.
You will find many small crowns on the
market today. They are larger than the
doll hats, but smaller than hats that fit
over the large part of the head.
average
th
GRE
eA)
'
looked different because they were
on the head tipped at such an exangle —and much more of the top
crown was in evidence.
Anyone
Sa
ps 4
A aye
Bs
:
only
worn
treme
of the
a
i
eo
\\
\
yi
||
| Sasa
alee
|
j
a
ot ame
See
"|
<A |
a
Disc
,
a
Be Sake oe
Pp tigh
ee
et
y
ieee
yee
“a
ml
io Se
Sere
eg
ist
dg
a
os
BS
bap
.
A
;
\SE
7 SAE
ws
Be es Pee
Se:
Bess
2
~~
we
“|
JE.—
Z
——
A,
WA)
an
A
ie
B oo
NaePe \
;
“er
=
{
2
~_y
af
ae
ene!
ore
Eee.
mm
hair
hat will
is well
cared
give you
a
final effect.
3
}
/
a
ee Er
e
" peers
Someta,
(peat ese Noon
DES
aOR
See
ate
Ree ( (
er
eee
aS Seas
2 Ses
me
i
‘
CG
hey
ZY
~~
Ye GREY
N7
t
.
%
ec
ac
fi
9
ee
'
Se
aD
tA
Z )
SS
Fe,
y
Y,
YR
OD
es
ae
{
oomm ie iseoe a
is, now, a real alliance between
(a pillbox
or crown,
pushed
to the
back of the head so that the hair is emphasized and the hat becomes secondary
to the hair).
another
hair-do,
For example,
. _ No one can predict just how soon we'll
h ats
_
ing
“lots
wearing
lots of
get to be
b as small
of hat”
hat
Il
agin.
again,
asas th they can
Wh
en
be be (and
(an
still be called hats) and when women get
tired of them and no new treatment seems
eek. etdalcwintt bas
possible, then the Millinery Cycle
BOTS; tj Bonnet.
turn and reverse itself, That is the nature
oe
SEOs,
Bes)
Bic
/£ Ss
will
of FASHION.
Here are three general rules about
“line” that may help you to differentiate
b tween
1.
good
Hiiplig
styles sad
and badictat
bad styles;
Rule of Balance:
If your brim is small, more attention is
paid to the crown. It might not only be
i
Se caie hats-can be worn
see with any hair-style.
hes)
:
¢
i
“‘pompadour”™ style hats
* be
/
Ot.
a
i
-
hairdress.
;
5
Bas
Bathe.
Beemer:
\
Z
fi
hats are being designed for the “ flat top”
pod
BY
\ es
=
Sales BA
if
Ve
po
i
\
ge
NyWw
i
l
a
= plement
Lye: ae
/
A
“
ger ee BE
Jee ie
ge
When the pompadour goes out, there
= will undoubtedly be another style to com-
Js
CS
‘Ss
BERS
VY
/<=
im ad
,
ee
VE
ial
A
eS
; SS
‘
—
Sp
He
pita
«eee.
:
1
mn
ay
SS
eB
ue
NI
hat
A
a
ae
Na
hair and hats. Witness the “‘pompadour”
=
ee
ee
aaa
taller and of an odd shape, but it also may
carry an unusual trim, detail work may be
more elaborate,
-
LA Wesel
Nii.
There
ME
Ee
o) Seite!
Seed
Ss RS
See:
watery
ms
ie Fostenbsk decneabck per caus; Sn o> virus
x
inspires
\ eee:
a
ga s sss
ae rp /
‘iia eae
ARN
If
()
Mi
poses
4
i
ee
Suet
op
ERE
pere
KY)
SS)
The high hairdress
:
Fe
POE
heey
agin SASS“
oh ee
Sire
‘ww!
:
¢
ee
SE
zy
Oo
iBa
"ee q
eee
- NE Sek
%
See
‘Sera fh aps
mee
“el
ee
oe Sees
wore)
Bored
|
ee
Wines ae
;
Sep
Rehan aR
Seek
o
ee
On the other hand, if your brim is out-
Le es
crown
will
probably
EMPHASIZED.
The third alternative
be
uUNpER-
se
re
es pe
to be small.
often been
pression that the wearer's head
(when
she
m
(AQ
were
nly
not
to the rest of us. The
head
Bey
a
ee
ae
;
rR
es
\ wath
EP
= ar:ll 4
~=4
:
a
GN
aoe a}
See
ot
>)
R aaa
¥
=
a
eae
ne
ates. te
ca
Sh ee oar
2
ie, ed
7) os
ny
e
oR
:
«Flower covered Pillbox
me
Ste:
é
ie:
Zw.
‘ Shako
Rule of Eye-line:
Most women seem
an
asymmetrical
teri
ering
h
than
placement.
a
,
Small Sail
ii
pred
to feel instinctively
(one-sided) place-
ment of the hat on the head is more fat-
Pir
tM
aa
2.
that
ical
symmetrical
(straight)
igh
EYE-LINES
They may never have heard of the art
principle “a curved or broken line holds
more interest than a straight one,” but
they observe it nonetheless in the wearing
of hats. (Men, too, feel this way
— very
few
of
squarely
them
on
;
J
h)
ent
ae
A
ve
Tae
Hee
a
igen
hall”
Weise
pls
- a
Wes
<
after we put on a hat. Using the “rule of
balance” keeps us from having “too much
ae
\
=
ile
f-
} ye
Be ao
sit cS
p
Eo
ie
SOF
; We
a
\\
N
:
“e
\6
‘ee
ee
£:oe " :
3————JF
Fes \C
oT aa
Sa
nm
S&S
ee
ae
uc: oe ea :
ei
ce
\
A
oa
Wide
he
eS
s
a
gee”
silhouette is more or less ‘“‘natural’” even - 2 >— ‘5
ial
+ee
FS
SSS
Ww
was
lavishly abundant.
|
Today, we want our heads to appear in. ~~ (2
proportion
ae
Sasa
\CS
the rest of her body. The brim and crown
but the trimming
=
|
LID
)
SAT
JO” yo
eae
hat) was large in proportion to
large,
: as
7
“heavy-looking.” For instance, the hats
worn by Lillian Russell all gave the imput on a
eae
LORS es
338
past, hats have
Oe
a
a8 iss \
Ses
Ye
in “balancing”
your hat concerns TRIM. If it is unusual
or elaborate, both crown and brim are apt
In years
si
ee
SEA
eee
are
2,
ae
PE
ay it EAC
ey
4 Pes 4 :
standing — either in size or in treatment —
the
ERGO
wear
their
hats
placed
the head.)
5
Bilin
yeline
ee
/,
eta <aSy
ht!
Saaee
K
a
y
e
; >
LAR
SS
Ns
oe
oer
AY
i \
\
OOM
ae
S)
oi »
es
a
ae
a
‘
hi
%
aS
)
Of,
Boe
33
WMS
"EZ
of.
»
Z
wear
it tilted
straight!
2h.
_
i
"
Ct}
Hes Sree |
On
a
fr
A
Eo
mee
I=
a
! &
»)
Pe
Orn
I
ae \
atk
J jf) ‘a@
penne
c
a
[)
ra
b
SS
aE
3
These
a
worn
ty
arn
ee
Ke
ee
=<
aM
=
ef
y
* e
ah Be
NG
|
4©
hats are made
angle —and the line
an
to be
of the
jj =
%
hat is spoiled if the hat is set squarely on
the head. On the other hand, there are
kK,
many small (nonheadsize) forward hats
that are made straight — the crown line
is not cut away — and these hats may be
Sena
J
worn
and adjusted according
to your own
personal preference.
As a general descriptive term, an
line” hat means
touching
one
‘‘eye-
When
establish the eye-line by drawing
it into
(or seeming to touch)
at least
the wood,
pencil.
of the eyebrows.
few
Generally,
women
reverse
this
line;
then
eae
as Bi
Forward headsize hats usually have the
——
a
these hats are brimless, it is easy to see
how the eye-line has been cut out.
Hats that have brims, such as casuals
and swaggers, have the same cut-out eye-
§
ieee .
6
f the
brim
is
;
ae
wad
Re
ea
~<
3 Bras es.
s gos
o ee
:
i
i
ae
ase
wre
de-
eee
sees a:
ee
y
Iie
pa
ae coe
eye-line established on the crown. When
ace
i eee
eae eye tne,
CayreRonenr
A
ae,
eye-line descends toward the left side and
rises on the right.
and th
pointed
Bes
ae
a fi
i
Ee nbc
with a sharp
this eye-
the
line,
your hat block, you en
forward,
line descends toward the right side and
rises more or less sharply on the left side.
A
you buy
one that comes
:
BLOCK
Hat
block with an “eyeline”. Draw a
and use it as a cutting guide.
line
y =
FP}
<z
i)
eye-line
at
q
aN
=
Bee
fe
GU
Saag
ge
ee
S
|
Ay
AY
Ni
Lp
Gee
yi
Ra
}
or
7
LY
#
taste
yen
Mp
—-
Vy
ea
Ey
Suit your own
aN
.
i
Wik.
eo,
Yee
vy
vs
ee
Sea
“Spe
aZ@
me
"eION,
‘
Wijly
z
(AB
worn
a OZ
saps
ey
fG
is be
to
ee
Yay}.
WY
~
biehats, decd
designed
j
4
b &..
Syn
Ah Me
ab
ee
e
c.
4
a
ae
a
ae
a
Qe
fee
oe
if ZL
SLE
|
\
MB
NU
\f
“>
if
ae
de
es
aS
face oy
FES
Ys
ss
ey
ae
Z)
| | Bee
a
AGEs
|
aD ge
ge
~~
h
t
NyX
5
&
AD
\
os
show
the
contour
Piety
7
gm
for a forward headsize
hat,
A
block
is a
“head
its cost
dummy”
of a few
fully justified by its many
useful
\
Bh pert
‘iy
BR
ey
heey at
7 3
s aar
|) Bess
Daeeec
esas
seas. gal
Zz;
7
€
N Ea be Ce
|:
|
Wel
is
fae - es
of Rees
<
oe
K
(2
uses. It is as
to a milliner as an eyeglass
EIS
f
>
— headdollars
<
a
IMPORTANCE OF A HAT BLOCK
ae
\
c=
4
Rp Cala
ee
“SiS
nf aay
AK
whether it is brimmed or brimless.
shaped — and
aa
of the back
in a profile view.
This will help you when you are cutting
ie
}
Yy
of the head,
out the crown
4
4
fo
all hats
7. AANE
WW eee
‘ coer
Almost
t
> CONTOLP
Poe
+
;
to a
ai
jeweler, a forge to a blacksmith, or a
dummy to a dressmaker. It is one of the
AA,
x
|
a
|
\
/
ee
\
\
}
tools of hat making.
12
® alge
You may hear of “square heads” or
“blockheads” — but actually, you will
Oo
pe
ag
ps
HES,
.
sae
Be
Ee
ge
Eee
find that all human
a
ae
ae
ae
3 =
oe
*,
=P
are more
or less
:
(Hat blocks are more fully discussed in
Chapter JI.)
3.
Rule of Contour:
If we wear a hat of almost any descrip-
~~
tion, it adds something to the head sil-
Se
Beek Be
Hat Block~or “Head Dummy”.
heads
round in shape.
ata
or.
Sioa
See eee
Cee
eee S
2
WA
Nie
Si
4
BO)
X
~~ t
Spee ne
sg)
hate tie
a
=
SERCO SEGA TOUR: "ee
>
ower RANE
SS
:
as
pe
: Pe
fey
a)
Saale gett
eae
See
—
oe
eo
Be
Y
/
Pte
tas.
Ress
houette. This change in silhouette is one
of the main reasons why we wear hats
~~
we feel that it varies and improves our
.
appearance to add a new and different
line.
7
wets
+e
ESE
6
LE
al
Ko eea
<
S
fy
Lin
5;
SEeaeRe ea
i EES
on
ares ora
*
aE
OE
1
4
Te
7, Hy TN,
SSSI
\e
wae
~
a
Te
s
Ey,
Se
SD ZY
SSS
SSS
eea
3
L
“ee
oH
Nog
SS
“A
ae
,
ie
3
-
A ea
3
‘|
f
t!
odd
J
forward
side, down, oe ee
You will notice that among
:
5
tions of lines there is one
to
either
i
spot
that
the line above or below the brim. Hats
that have a down movement (some sort
of a ruffle or snood running across the
observe it by showing the line above
the material at the back of the head and
neck.
8
g
leave
WOMEN
WEAR
: 2;
oa
are
ake
peace
gfe Mone n etre
Beat
some
HATS
Rata
fi aonb
Tees oie
ea aig ig
23h
the
‘
by not covering
with the head silhouette.
contour
f
or inter-
Re
=a
>
Zn
ay ig S,
aA:
Zi
| : s a ws)
ap
ie et
:
.
line undisturbed
fering
WHY
pe ‘ oer,
Hats with brims observe it by showing
hats
tne
This silhouette change is not, of course,
route only reason why women wear hats.
is
Thich
aie work because thes
bam
one
line is left clean and free.
forward
Eo
all the varia-
all hats, the silhouette of the back head-
Small
oie
Cartwheel. Small crown, large brim. In
a side view, the contour line will show
below the brim.
left undisturbed
— that is, the contour
LINE AT THE BACK OF THE HEAD. In almost
back)
ES
-
y
run
SN
9
Jp
may
eg
ee
‘ete
Sa
Fe,
line
CEE
Pay
<=
re
sesh
oe: arnt
io
ih
Sj
a:
Ie
ba
ret}
This
igs. CTE
BEE RE
ey
4
\
we
etnies
hemeeeon
mii
who:
pS
pA
&S
ee
gee esis
es. tee
!
pees
reece
?
YR
os
aaa
EE
‘
be
7
ERE
ee
Be
—
ig
ot
FAB
es
——_!]
:
q
==
5
nes
zyme
yy
ZB
Dy BRO he
\ Bs
a\ KY
é \a\
fD>
iE
i
ew)
=
Culed Pillbox ee
roken contour. line
shows “inthe back
belowowe
small hat.
7
y
h
|
4
y 2aN ,
A yy
0
=
ee
eH]
J eS)
ri
N EY )
The wearer achieves personal recog-
2.
face and introduce contrasting or harmon-
izing colors close to the eyes, hair, or skin;
notion.
character
and
heat
against
mee
gon
di
to many
gains the response
of
her audience, be it large or small. :
:
Hats are still worn as a_ protection
groomed appearance; they complete and of
Ved,
dil
rigs
S
wearer
The
3.
they confine unruly hair and give a well-
but
cold;
if this
were
clothes; they express personality; they
help to gain social and business prestige.
the only reason that could be advanced
for wearing them, we might all just as
A psychologist would tell us that a new
hat’ sétisies three’ primary ensotional
well be wearing sunbonnets in the sum™ and babushkas in the winter! This
—
would mean that only the young and fair
1.
of
wearer
The
participates
in current
:
£5
BARS
i
Sg: tens
ais
SE ROENes
Pata
a
2 Te See ee
is RS
Poses
see
ne SL ae
SEAL SRE
7S Re
ee
"3 a
LS
co
LEO
would
d
sh
ever show
Id ever
up advantagehave real reason
to be grateful to milliners!
happenings,
OR
FE face
ously. Indeed all women
a
te
SN
ES
WN
eee
ks
Zor.
o_o
;
Sey eee
ee
¥
ee
ee
ie OF
a oe i
j
fess
f
aes
a
TE
Ses
St A
te
y
223
mt
‘
ee
F
Zt)
#
eee
Y Bp:
Ree
are
eee"
Seia ee
=
a
eerie ie
ee he
Peery
oe a ae
Be
ee Aen eae
9
pee aS
cath
_ PE
Ee
ci
em
i)
ie
Se
\
CZs
faite
“i
zp
S
ZEB
pra
CG
ZB
CP
Eo Zags
nao
—S—
=
|
~reaoeame
Sie
/
—
ff
~
OY)
a
Q +
Se
f
Z
Jus
Bota
malts:
hi
ES
at
Meee.
EMTs6
AIR hE hte neatt
y | Meade:
Wy] BRP
se
2 each
ene
tate. |
SSeS
Eee,
Te
crise
RAN
a
za
f
Cg
WHA
eetateeiestcdescs|
hee
a
i
SS
Chapter Jwe
BASIC
MILLINERY
SUPPLIES
“What makes a milliner?” is a quespect to learn from these Millinery Techtion often asked, and the answer is simply nique
lessons.
First
you
become
acthis: Most women
are born with good
quainted
with
the
different
millinery
taste ~a sense of color and line and a_
materials;
secondly, you learn how to
flare for style. Teach this woman millinery use them.
technique, and you have a milliner.
I'd like to qualify this statement by
BUCKRAM
saying that a good milliner has a real
interest in and love
finds satisfaction in
she
her
If you are going to make your own
frames, you must use buckram. Willow
hands; that she has the patience for
painstaking work; that she has some
gift of imagination plus. some common
molds more easily, but does not have
enough body to make a. satisfactory
frame. The buckram family is a large
sense.
procedures
Logical
useful.
Learning
process,
for hats; that
working with
millinery
and
every
are
most
is a step-by-step
hat you
make
will
add to your experience. As in any kind
fashion
of
work,
youll never
learn
all
there is to know! As long as you keep
doing
on
it,
however,
you Il
your
learning
and
improving
There
are
two
10
things
you
keep
on
technique.
may
ex-
elastic
of
kinds
many
including
one,
nets.
| The kind we have found to be most
satisfactory for general use is a coarse,
heavy
net,
elastic only
be
in
look
like
ond”
not
Jayer.
a
block
with
wet. The
impregnated
should
over
stiffened
when
the
a
Buckram
when
wet.
sizing.
weave,
coating
can
It is
should
sizing
be
and
or
sec-
shaped
CRINOLINE
MILLINERY GLUE
Crinoline
is lighter-weight material,
with a simple basket weave. It looks like
stiff cheesecloth. It has less sizing in it
than buckram, and is used as stiffening or
in frame making. We call it “crin.”
Millinery glue is used for gluing fabrics. It holds securely without injuring or
staining materials. It is also used for gluing
feathers and
flowers,
and
in the
making of some ornaments.
MILLINERY
WIRE
Gluing
There are a number of sizes and kinds.
You will find the heaviest paper-covered
wire
(No.
19 or No. 21) useful for many _
different hats. You can bend and adjust
this wire.
For a stiff straight brim (sailor or cartwheel)
you will use steel wire ~ a wire
that will not bend. It is joined together by
a wire joiner. If you cannot make purchases at a millinery supply house, perhaps your local milliner will sell ~ or give
— you a joiner.
LLL
GY
Te
ap
ty, 4 LEZ
Cj
ad i
GEIAg
AOYEGA frye
tip,
<i
ERS
Bere
et
#,
oye
ea
ee
yee
eae
3
a
; ae
Sp
\ )
'
e.
:
oh
a
a
\ Ve
a
See
yo ey
ie Pe,
5
eg ts
SEL
Ney
ae
Bare a
;
baer
|
ae
ogee
ew
ee
i
eo
ae
aaa
Sees:
! ae .
=
Covering a “curved” brim with material. (left)
Use glue on upper side of Breton. (right) Use
glue
tee
CY
ES,
Ns
oie
Ee, Bs
8
:
fe
My
:
ee
Se Oe
kiviigyy fF
Rate.
ee...
s
me
ee
ae
an OAR
eR
;
a
a”
m:
Ee
ee
RT
OF
ee
eee
ee
:
3
\
eae
a
Se
we
e
pen
as
you
it is not necessary to glue, for you can con-
N=
Al
|
a brim,
eee
see
ee eA
La
we von ee
covering
trol your fabric by sewing at crown line
and on the edge. Any brim that has a
“curve,” however, will need to be glued.
(If it is not glued, it should be stitched.)
An indented crown should also be glued.
Some milliners use a knife or spatula
to spread the glue over the buckram. I
usually use the finger method, especially
in small areas. (I worry about getting it
to ty / Ge
GY
In
-
Qe
LG be) rT
Brims:
may use glue to make the material conform to.the shape of the brim. In a brim
designed to be worn flat (such asa sailor)
ee
eo
eS
Mes: o>
na
Se
ae
*
on under side of Mushroom.
11
off my hands after I have gotten it onto
the hat! And by the way, the stuff doesn’t
wash off ~ it rolls off.)
Hold the tube of glue close to your hat
brim and squeeze out a few drops of the
thick and heavy glue. Spread thinly and
evenly, and
firmly and
then press your
hold in place
Removing Glue: If you get a spot of glue
on the outside surface of felt or fabric, wait
until it dries and then rub gently with a
fine sandpaper.
GROSGRAIN
for a minute.
Buy millinery grosgrain, and ask for it
Glue dries very rapidly, so you must work
by name.
Now lift up another portion of material
and spread glue over another small area.
straight-edged grosgrain will not. Grosgrain comes in different widths and all
Smooth
colors, and is used extensively in millinery.
fast.
toothed.
and pat material in place.
iB Continue uf aor
ene
ihe cuits
at i Ce
bit
give
ay abe 3
OU
et ans Ge eae ec
Breton — you will need to glue only the
top,
i
side. Your
or convex,
:
material
“and
will
iliesa:
only the underside.
If yduar
brim
down
to one
side
HATE
ARRE REE
APE
Te
; AH HEAT
ribbon
has
toothed edge.
ribbon by
damp cloth in
position.
ats
<7
La
5 -<
edie
ZN
PF
in the shape of a circle;
LEEPER CONE
the outer edge
EH
press,
of the ribbon
STEER CLC REEL HU
REEEETBET
Hi H
En
PPC
HI It il LA
ETE]
oe
Straight edged ribbon that will
Lif RSs
not circle.
| DEE gaa ria im
i) ahahtLPet OR
oe
rae,
aS
Re
: ne
ge
‘
as
iron, the
under a
SHORT CASA RNAP OM SMA
aw
ie 2
aS
Eh
5
the
Circle Ribbon: If you use a steam
the ribbon flat on the pressing
Hi Hi ee
HAAR
a :
Psi
fo
Q:
ae
So
i
TT
We as
.
aa
we
[HT
aoy
ie LD
gi
Nae
i Hh
HTH |
RTE
is saw-
“circle”;
TTT
EEE
ECE
LET
ET
CNR | a
Sera)
‘
S&S
saw-
pressing
rounded
Rr
S
EET
will
you go. If you use an ordinary
ribbon must be pressed round
damp cloth.
HU
UH
?
“Circle”
with
EEE EEE
HAH) ih i} it
PEALE
Millinery
ae
EERE
ribbon
used
tor
headasize,
ut
betore it
x
;
oe
”
into the hat, it must be
“circled.
stretching
and up on the other side, you will use
this same principle. Use glue onthe inside
curve, whether it is up or down.
ii
eet RETA
sure that the edge
is called a “headsize” ribbon. No. 5 is
difoniiheadazer’ Garbelnes
board
curves
Be
This
Headsize Ribbon: A grosgrain ribbon is
used to finish the inside of a straw or felt
hat. This ribbon takes the place of a lining
Al
“
neat
:
s
‘
zs
e size
naturally cling to the underside asit curves.
is sewed
out and up.
‘
On the other hand, if your style is a
How to
mushroom brim, you will need to glue
iron lay
sinuy
RIBBON
fabric down
“After ribbon is circled,
UR Eis ready for many
:
_ uses in Millinery.
y b>
ee ee
NOR
at
ee Oe
mas eg
oe
ote
oN
ey
Uh]
aie’
\_ SMM,
<
ce
ple
Pid 9
eels s/
eee |
pees
age |
ae
Site
oe
of
et
et SERS.
a wa, RSD.
sey
D
@
|S
wi
ey
S
rere
MPR erMee Ca
eS Det ad
ees
Daas
nie:
Cee Pere.
CNG
Sent
Ue GEES.
Os Pty, Sere Wea
ae | HO SOD Caen
LY
\
are, Yar
ee
ee
YE D
ro
a YG
wee
Ababa,”
”
NR
Bag
he: Le
Make brim binding by doubling grosgrain and
then pressing in rounded position. Stretch over
wired edge of hat and sew by hand or machine.
ey
Uses:
outside
Grosgrain
trimming
bands,
is also used
bows,
and
for
ings, using the proper width and color.
Binding:
A grosgrain binding
center.
Press,
and
for the edge
then
proceed
circle” the doubled ribbon.
Hat B
:
ae ;
as Bane | ie oe
tee
scribed
above.
MILLINERY
ed.
Froceed
NEEDLES
MILLINERY
.
used
as
a
you
Noes
or
by
as
a
base
for
is
soft
SIZING
This
¢
lorl
I
4
q
is is colorless liquid
used
to stiffen
felts or straws. Brush on where you need
a
as
de-
AND
THREAD
to stiffen. Do not use on a damp surface
— be sure your hat is dry before applying
aoe A second orthird coat may be used
if you desire extreme stiffness, but let each
coat dry before applying another.
HAT
BLOCK
If you want to make very many hats for
particularly
need
strength — for instance in wiring a brim
ase) Neadia
block
lining
to
are long and strong.
Where
a
.
eee
bi Su
steaming.
It
turbans.
Millinery needles are usually imports,
most of them coming from England. They
Sizes:
CHIFFON
.
s ae
aped ebeer,
over
of a brim is made by folding the ribbon in
the
STARCHED
bind-
oe Novo
with aNowew
24 millinery thread. Use Needles No. 7
and No. 8 with thread No. 40 for finer
finishing work. You may also use sewing
thread No. 50 for finishing. Millinery
thread has a different finish from ordinary
thread and greater tensile strength.
yourself, you must have a block that meas-
ES
ae
the same size as your head. If you
make
oy
Ye ZQ
EERE
Shes
!
Reeser
le
Gi
ons Trt einen
SY ee
ee
gr ere
AW
op
oe
ey SORES
a te
Bee
YN
Y,
aes acae
Ose eae nat,
eae.
3? Sth
RAE at cs
[GREE
YJ SRR Sass,
asia Ge eanigiey
Fogehn WAN
coy
A
\e
‘uraWee cor NS
ate
ee
Lp
||
co
pink
wi Heats:
es,
hats for people with
&t headsizes, then you will need
than one block.
differ-
more
Some hats can be made without the use
of a block. Examples are pillbox, visor hat,
sailors, and berets, included in the Pattern Section.
13
:
nit
7
q@eCrdSS)
TaN
ae
ag
oy,
a th
sg A
*EN
J
)
Bec
4
a)
Ree
. Ga
<o
‘
:
a
ve
hats. ee
oe
on
:
ornaments
:
fp Me
ES
fx
a
we
pee
: , and
You ee
will want flowers, veilings
et Maes
pene
to your “outside materials’) are those you
and
(tucked
away on a closet shelf)
so
that you can make a hat when the mood
aa
ee) hs.
KF
An
*
Fe
React
\
v
a Nf
Se.
° } * ao nae
(in addition
listed above
supplies
The
pra
s
rE
TE?
or
saan
re e.
StI
OTHER SUPPLIES
j
ae
ea ean
NOL
ay\ \
VANS
ai
Sugldasaees
tater
Talay
a
AC
tay
it.
Dy
as you
to use
need
selctd
selected
dividual
ividuall
ly y
as trims,
them.
but buy
They
should
these
be
in-
lots
of
k
you make.
for for each
each h hat
A
\
to
How
SS
CF
MILLINERY
cor-
Ready-made hat frames do not require
However,
not having a block
definitely limits your hat making. When it
a sewing machine, but it is extremely use-
ful. There are details on almost every
hat that can be done
hand-made
block
and better with
te
be
your
best
friend.
og ape
is ae
in
gene are es LI
. phe eeihe
oe) ie
with a tight
Even
a
spas bate 4
o Bc ’ sh
, es those ble k
a Co.
band made
of
Ag i.
Thi
e Bercy
tS
band will hold your steamed crown firmly
in place after blocking and while it is
drying.
How
to
cae for
oe
ES
bump
.
TS
at back
equipment,
Sewing Machine: You do not have to have
comes to remaking or renovating, your hat
will
EQUIPMENT
women already possess it.
:
blocking.
millinery
for
As
rect head-size.
J
Bee
measure for
Sede
" tape a
TS
of head.
head
head acd
eet
When you get
a sewing
faster
machine.
Iron: A steam iron is fine for pressing materials and seams, circling ribbons, and
blocking fabrics; but is not much good for
blocking felts. If you do not have a steam
jron you can get steam by applying a hot
iron to a wet press cloth:
Pad:
Steam
Make
a steam
pad
for hand
blocking and finishing touches by using a
yard of muslin. Fold it until you have a
square
about
6 inches x 6 inches.
Hand
will propad
sew the layers together. This
r Poe
a3
; mae
Be
: ig
:
your block, mark center front (C.F.) and
center back (C.B.) on it. Front and back
ps Bee eas Se
Ree
egress
are almost alike, but there is a slight bump
Ba
in the back that corresponds to the one on
the back of your head.
PINS
i
them — ordinary
14
sibs
it
a
Z
dressmaker pins
6
os
ZS
pee
Sabine
PRLS
ES
MRE SS
%
for fabrics; a larger, heavier pin for block
Pp inning.g
Be
;
You can't make hats without pins. Use
of
=
h
>
lots
ES
a
Steam
<a
es
Dee
FegaOaS
‘pad)“
made ' of nse
mUsatT
:
~
finishing.
tor” ‘hand
tect
your
with
fingers when
iron
and
you
steam.
are working
Use
it
for
board. The
last-
‘OW
latter will prove
for much
to be too nar-
of your work.
minute pressing and blocking in “hard-to-
Steam-Press:
get-at” places.
towel makes a good press cloth. The
“steam-press,
as
used
hereafter,
Pressing
board,
Board:
A
padded
good-sized
and
covered,
bread
makes
a
use
isa
tubing
made
out of
(cut on the bias) and then stuffed
tightly
with
cotton
(the
kind
that
is used
for quilting). Tubing can be made THick
or THIN, depending
After
the
Ay
covered.
p
fabric
:
for draping
is
of your
together
so
any
[=
it must
,
the tubing.
or 5”
that
you
be
kind of dress
Cut
Bias
wide and sew
have
a
long
continuous piece about three times as long
as the tubing you wish to cover.
Gather
the drape
at one
end
it to the end of the tubing. Now,
to wrap
drape turned
on
top
of it.
right,
it will
brim
kind
b
(it can
be
to be
used
Make
”
sewed
except
a
‘halo
effectively on
:
;
a
thick
Buy
tubing,
about 23
long. Join tubing ends at center
back and then cover with draping. Attach
this brim to the crown by tacking in place
at base of crown.
“Thick”
and
sew _
proceed
7
tubing:
Use
bias
muslin,
5”
side seam, turn right side out and stuff with
cotton.
“Thin”
TUBING
tubing:
directions but make
tubing,
THE
need
yn:
of a crown).
the
wind.
not
this procedure in making
only
you
under, as this will finish the
at ends.
letting the material fall into folds around
as
iron
to 542” wide, as long as you wish. Make
the tubing with the bias material,
tubing,
hot
preceding raw edge. If the drape is wound
Use
made,
use
strips of material, 4”
strips
term
will
TUBING
on its use.
tubing
You can
linen
STSCI
STUFFED
tubing
heavy
Do not iron — s-T-£-A-m!
a
Stuffed
smooth,
indicate use of a wet press cloth plus the
better pressing board than your ironing
muslin
A
242”
Follow
the bias muslin
to 34%2” wide.
draped
and
tied
A
in
above
strips
“medium”
a knot
or
a
MUST BE HELD TIGHTLY AND THE MATERIAL
figure “8” at top front of crown, gives a
MUST BE STRETCHED. Keep one side of the _ turban effect hat.
15
4
Fe
Te Mihai
ee
=
a
eae Sa
i a
<a,
D
S
ERO aa
aaa
‘\
,
=\
~~)
ot
DP
|
f
tS
CY
}
j
ue ibe.
BR ih
Ws
|
ae
\
ee
MS
heys
ae
ae
See on Ee
Cx
(
Be by
Bh
ee
Perse
*
Chapter Jhnee
MILLINERY
MATERIALS
There are three general classifications
of millinery materials:
(1) felts,
(2)
straws, and
(3) miscellaneous hat materials. Each of these classifications requires a different working technique; and
as you proceed with your millinery lessons,
you will learn to apply the correct method _
to your particular hat. The procedure will
hold true whether you are working with
new or old materials. “To successfully re-_
make a dress you must first know how to
make a new one.” This truism applies also
to millinery.
A felt requires no frame; it can be
styled over a block; it can be made in different colors, weights, and finishes; it will
shrink as well as give in blocking.
Three kinds of felt are available. They
are made from three different basic materials: fur—usually rabbit—wool fibres,
and cotton fibres.
In addition
to these
three
different
types, there are combined mixtures.
“Felting”
processes are the guarded
secrets of their manufacturers; however,
all the felts contain a filler or sizing along
with their basic ingredients. When steam
FELTS
and great pressure are brought to bear on
Probably more hats have been made of
felt than of any other material. Ever since
the first English beaver was “invented,”
women
— and men, too — have been
wearing felt hats. (To be technical, the
first felts were worn exclusively by men!)
16
bey
°
ite
“© t
the result is a felted material,
Fur Felt: Fur felts are the best and most
adaptable felts. They are also the most
expensive. They lend themselves to hand
blocking and draping, and almost any
kind of styling. They may be worn the
year around, and if they lose their shape,
may be reblocked. If too soft, add sizing
(on the underside to stiffen when reblocking or remaking).
Wool Fels: eepalad pace dies atade
Flat Felt: Cotten and wool felt come by
the yard. Fur felt may be purchased ina
folded flat piece called “skirting.” A very
fine grade of skirting is called “handkerchief felt,” and it can be draped very
beautifully
Gs a block. It is extremely
out of wool felt. Most of them are machine
blocked. In fact, it is almost impossible to
block them by hand, except on very simple
blocks. Usually they are not worth re-
a oe
co
(I mets ee
a
yee f hat The ie ° Spec
nce
i oS ie 2
a
. a re
ee
a
' - :
were Ghia
te pay eae
and
up for them.)
Pre-Blocked Shapes: Fur and wool felt
making if blocking is involved. Wool felt
is subject to shrinkage; it is not as soft or
pliable as the fur felt. It feels rather harsh
also
to the fingertips. Use is limited, but it is
the basis of millinery mass production.
“‘hoods.” These roughly
shape of the head and
Cotton Felt: This material is the cheapest
of all the felts and does not greatly concern the milliner.
It cannot
be hand
style
blocked, but hats ~ such as “‘party-favor”
sounds
hats-—may
nants,
.
be
made
armbands,
i
fromiat
etc.,
;
use
Scheel
this
ee
material.
Forms in Which Felt Can Be Bought:
Felt can be bought in the following different forms:
By
|
Fase
oe
=e
es ao
Teton
and
a
Parties
over
quite
Choosing
in “bodies”
i
i want
aes : eee
looks Deeg hike
x
ee
of
ee
material
A
would
flare
head into
that
body
would
not
into
so-
in the crown,
out
j
comes
and
ag
Bate
tel
ies
_
y)
Shape and Size of Felt: When
iy
%
?
These
made
pre-blocked
out
of
felt
shapes are
or
ae.
Gee
eek
Bp
|
eee
.
the
a
oS.
.
Mae.
es ey S
|
and
approximate the
are without any
your eyes,
as deep
bottom edge
called brim.
A
up
ae
ur
ee
sacklike piece
down
be
made
you make a hat you will use the nearest
shape and size of felt to your proposed
style. For instance, if you are going to
make a small turban or pillbox (hats without brims)
use a hood. If you want to
make a hat with a brim, choose a body. A
Hood
dis
a
come
ee
|
ae
VCs
4
te ks
eee
Ae
x
ee
ere
na
: te
f
straw.
\
iY)
‘ % sea
OA
bP TOS
i
id
Pe
j
ALY
(
Ne
wyyf
Per
EN
(}
PEN i)
\\}
=
4
Ga
O:.
(e
|
Jf
.
oer betes su
1 BEmOMCIE
Beane.
TTR NC Se.
ta
Z
,
\
SF
)
Shee...
BAP ay 3).
Me as...
v7)
Sa
Bes
Ei
Yeeisiicr ss:
ZL)
\&
=
if
/
. ae
A).
Y } Hf
Bt
f=
ha
Ta
ad
yy
=
ae
gee
oe Rea
Paes tysipie
ha
hE
Ee aah
Rae
Er
cr
4
Rae
Cae
oy
eat
OR
(Pa EE LU Bete Ccieheirt UG
A
i
Pattern
retin
ORIG+Ofaa
beret
made
\
i
beginner to
3
results will
the way of
year-round
used
in
you
inexpensive
will
also
ready-made
find
it used
in
Nab
PN~N
|
aS
\
matid
Sey
}
pera
if BO
NQ
(
«SY
SS)
4
JF
yy)
Wes’
\
c
ay
STRAWS
Straw is also a millinery material, and
light-weight hats have been made out of
it for many years. Straw bodies and hoods
Li
d-ih
heuldeb
may be purc! ased and
these shou
e
blocked
and
:
worked
In
Leak
muc
the
same
lsc
ental felt.
manner as you
block and work
When you block a straw crown, whatever style
4
retained
a
Ss
in your
5
applied
eae
3s
interest
to
is in your
In many
block
f
crown. Brim
felts may
ways,
also.
b
ae making
the technique
will
find,
be
blocking
as
z
to
Sctemshate
closely follows
You
:
will
li
be app ied
felt
hats.
of making
however,
that
straws have
in
have. Most of them neither give nor shrink
lies in workmanship
and
hand-
made details. The hand-made details need
as
not
always
be
simple
elaborate
stitches
to
and
be
effective. Very
appliqués
show
up
patterns
de-
quite professionally.
In the
pattern
section
much
use
limitations that felts do not
felt;
a cut
be finished
of sizing
ways
are
as
straw
in some
(for stiffening)
edge
way;
must
and
the
is almost
al-
required.
Straw
also
comes
by the yard,
varying
signed for the use of “wool felt.” Direc-
in width from a fraction of an inch to 5-
tions
or 6-inch
18
for making
—as
well
as
directions
bandings. If
you
i Hein
Best 34
ee
higher-priced merchandise. The difference
price
irse
for the making of a Dutch bonnet — will
be given at the end of this chapter.
None of these hats require the use of a
block.
stores Cony ie You will find this ma-
and
ay
=
skirting.
use. It is not expensive, and
anos
i
prove to be most gratifying in
aah
2
style and wearability. It is a
:
material, and lots of depart-
6
esa es ccihatei:
RRR ES:
ANS Geert
Pie
\
ct SHORE RoE
it
PS
72)
ae ASG
aft ES
Wool felt by the i yard is one of the
:
nicest and most satisfactory felts for the
;
,
é
hats,
de: ee
Luana ee
Vet des
out of felt
Zo
inttties:
Rapn ha tenet sb
you choose a body for your
hat, you will also be able to
a 14-inch or 16-inch hood.
terial
st
Pea creteeh
Privaal
oe
si
a
Mets _ Eee he
Vary
ie
A ri
ee eo Se
oo ar
” OR
aoe
OE
OOGE Alen vary,
size ~a large blocked beret would take
7
2
eu
dvi sata
Ai
>
=‘
ths
Ee atin
blocked beret is made from a hood. Pattern berets are made out of flat felt, either
fur or wool. (Pattern is laid out and cut,
just as you would do in dressmaking.)
When
brimmed
or
;
Fo
) Rapghee
Serta
SSy
CAU Pee)
OR TER Tneeo ctcess
SS Soe
Ree ||
SRG
SA
nye
” Block
SeenSria ere
Ree
wv
aN do
fl
4
ge
kn sige
atte
y
buy it by
the
|
“aes
~
f=
aN
a,
,
zz»
SS
ong
.
ren
s
*
ie
Bey
[es
if
—\,
eS
Y
x
Serer
|
panama
straw.
yard, you will have to sew it together,
naturally, before you will be able to block
it,
Stiff straw braids are more workable
after they are wet. Just dip the straw ina
pan of water and sew while wet. Use any
kind of a stitch that will hide itself in
the indentations of the straw.
course,
when
you
block
straw
(right)
too
numerous
The
to
list,
kinds
of straw
and
each
M *
"
(( )
.
GF
Blocked
Milan
straw.
Good
straws
are
worth
remaking
and
reblocking.
MISCELLANEOUS
will “give’’ and then stay that way after
it has dried on the block.
of Straw:
eet
Many
of the finer and more expensive
straws have always been imported but in
the last few years the domestic markets
have shown a marked increase in quality
straws.
Panamas, _ milans,
pedalines,
bakus and toyos are a few of the wellknown straws.
(steam-press) it is in a softened condition. While under control on the block, it
Kinds
a
Hy
.
(left) Blocked
Of
we
'
} >.
| Segre
j
HAT
MATERIALS
This
group
are
straw and
season
any, body,
of materials
differs
felt in that they have
from
little, if
and must be made over
a frame.
brings new variations, weaves, and names.
The frame has the style interest sewed or
A
blocked into it, and, when the material
conforms to the shape of the frame, then
blocked
covered
frame,
with
ne
ma-
malsiay
ag ee ae
—
Goer
the style is put into the material.
ee see
=
N
etna
hats and there are lots of materials made
especially
ay
ca
zk
Fema
\
aos
ee
‘ ae
; ee AX
ms
eee
~\
=
eee
—
yj}
&
e Q
a,
a
~~
x
=
(“F
sat
7
for milliners.
Millinery Yard Goods: The regular millin-
mae
TO Ea
Cover-
ing a frame is not a new method of making
en
ery yard goods include: petersham
(looks
re
velvet
very
s
beer
eae
lyons
tine velvet which
comes
hat
in a nar-
row width), straw cloths (in a variety of
novelty weaves), chiffon and suede jersey
(soft and drapable),
ee
) ee
Bes Naar
4
~
es
Ma
|e
he
a
Be
ec
si
EE
aA
SS
Be
VA
S a
Za
%
J he
me
eo Rae
—.
Ge
sit
and several kinds of
19
ot
ae
ee
er ge
;
aN
7 tke
NM)Ay Bee,
dees
eee
LG
ge
3
se
eae
ae
es
cpa
tiene
ageSep >
N
|
reer
\CFF
2
NA
re
iy
Sa
can be trimmed in many
ferent ways.
TON
a
:3
:
eee
“| | \e
'
dif-
Ir
\
So.
>
ao
7
Easy to make felt bonnets that
a
%
toe
)
ons ie
Ye
be
ss
ee
Le
ee
re
is
&* x
Ne
a
wae
Bs
°
es \
Cw
Fie ag
eeee
Bei i
”A
CC
ITD
if
ee
SH
=
ees
RE ee
aan
Sa
ees
aie
Pe ear
S Se
(Ls
\
8
ae
Sk
er
Sup Be sss
ae”
iz
eh
Se SR
EN
aos
Bate
ee
ease
Spee te
hee
Ae
\
SA
Smart
The first three materials mentioned are
Buy
usually used over soft foundations made
me,
Peer ea
peed
uncut velvets, including bagheera.
a
ea
Heapsize
61/2
inch
_Jayout;
(to
felt
fit
and
small child).
follow
pattern
out of crinoline and starched chiffon. They
may also be used with a partial or-half-
Mepium Heapsize
frame. When used over a complete frame,
they make quite a stiff hat, which is some-_
1° 21'% inches). Buy 7” felt and follow
pattern layout;
co
desirable, depending on the style of
Large HEApsizE
Bt
Use wool-telt by the yard
trasting
“buttonhole
€™ layout;
and use con-
inches
ee pees
pee
se
|
ae
ae
a
ea
feet.
OO
ome
AY
a
Ate
front
sections
and
PRS
back
matching notches. Use
an overcast stitch or a
amalltrinning) stitch
A9
Ky
3
oS
{ (4
2
or
61/2
inches
Ck
length
according
to
Sm)
eee
ae eye
&
size
—“ I
z.
a
|
aed
|
a eae
ee
AF
together,
1 inch off the entire
BELO)
an a2ee
ee
Cut
of felt, leaving a section 51/2 inches x 36
hand
for
twist”
Cutting:
sewing.
20
(headsize 22 inches to 23
inches) . Buy 7'4 inch felt and follow pat-
HAND-MADE DUTCH BONNET _
Sew
‘
tp
(headsize 20/2 inches
SOU eAS ae
i
ra
ar
a
Petits
: Bi
|
fess fe.
Tee Gat
ina
a hee
Ree
design.
ler the one previously
sewn.
Fold
Gee
fee
Nae
|
teniesae:.
Uf
oe Wriees
nes
ie:
back
“cuff” of bonnet,
reinforce edge.
V
:
68
1
at
642
Sh
'
V
1
:
CB
!
oe
%
i
5A\'
eee
eos
es
I
1
t
te eee
for small size.
pattern
this layout
Follow
ep
10
é*
V
‘
a
‘
‘
:
6"
eB
;
cB
.
1
\
eee
eee
ee
CL
this
Follow
layout
1
Cc. B
\
bh
\
Hat.
Medium
0"
kia
6%
\
“
for
[een
0. Se
cB
;:
;
\
|
hmete Wieaepn ty ese = pene ear
5
‘
64
p
i
\
‘
\
ee
(Ge e(oe
this layout
Follow
bonnet
being
made.
This
strip
will
for. Large Hat.
and
be
64-inch
felt in bright
“‘re-
red. The
used for reinforcement.
inforcement”’ strip in red was used to trim
Divide the rest of the felt according to
the pattern layout; 51 inches square is
the back section for the small size. Cut
blue cap —~ and the “rethe mothers
inforcement’’ strip in blue was used to
trim the little girl's red hat.
.
5),
7 oe a ue Hy on each side, as in
pea
by : otte Lae
icated
ate
The one-inch strip cut from entire lengt!
of felt is to be used for reinforcement and
may
clever
made
be of same or contrasting color. A
“Mother and Daughter”
set was
by buying 72-inch felt in navy blue
Sewing: Baste top-and-sides section to the
back section, matching center back (C.B.)
Try
seams
the cap on your head. Side back
may have to be cut away a little
more to make it fit. However, this is not a
headsize
hat—it
is
supposed
te
fit
loosely.
21
Sew
par
small
along
tion)
top: and
sides,
using
running stitch and making
seam.
ema
Fold back
;
the
the
“cuff
Note:
a very
Ontlines
stitch the
(1-inch strip)
across
tailored, but there
, at
colored
ieee
eh
aah
£
Sans
Sequins
the bonnet.
use;
Divide the remaining strip and sew the
ends together. Hand
:
r
the ‘“‘cuff” of the hat. Use the rest of it to
reinforce the under edge of
This hat is quite
are lots of ways to dress it up. Trim it with
lored felt
colored
telt appliqués,
beads, or sequins.
liqués, bead
i
(top-and-sides BoC
as far as you like. Hand
reinforcement section
a_
come
but if you
in this way,
stitch all around the
by the string,
are not able
perhaps
you
ready to
to buy
have
an
Th
at the center of the back.
the little time it takes to sew them on.
in
stitch i
fa
letanee
vow
Cote
cere
u
get onto it, and the result seems well worth
er
aN
Be).
3S aie
saa
eae
Ray ta e
‘ Sone
7)
ae
aa
Pee
\
Beta
f
nas
She Ses
\ \| Nie erseeSeaes.:
\)
PRs
ac
ea
VMsce tee:
if
\
CO
AG
A
er
‘
}Vf]
Nera
Ye
eta.oS:
Ga
geet
\
“4
\S
Jyh
i
a
\
22
7
Poe.
a Way 2
ae!
Se
ee
\
A
}
o
Woes
\
ie
Ws
a
*
4
Hilts
ee
ce
old
ornament that you:can unstring and reuse.
edge. Make a bow out of this felt strip and
tack it to the center front of the bonnet.
The bow may also be used across the hat
2
them
fy
SEZ
\ ERY
pe
an
Vinrn
et
Be he ct Sh
aginsias”
\
Oa
eee
i
Be
Was,
\
/
Sees
8s
s
Ng
re.
Ganon ae
se.
| \ SeMsas5
:
Sheesh
e
aed
’.
Bas: ee
ane
pares!
ae
Reees,1 ©
ag
emesis
y
|
Seed;
Plata ea
BAGS
WOOL-FELT
felt may be used for making
Wool
bags
too. The material will drape in attractive
folds and it has enough body so that it
aPany-linin
little.
Fequires very
is an overarm
Here
Pouch Bag:
yond
by using a warm
open
the seams
the seams)
Turn
are
oO
y
q
Overarm
Press
iron and damp cloth. Press them open all
the way to the top and finish the ends (bethe
bag
by hand overcasting.
out. Arrange
right side
Band:
The
material required is 15 inches of
36-inch felt.
Cutting:
2-inch
a
Cut
band
lengthwise
from your piece of felt, leaving a section
13
Fold
indicated
in
the
large
section
in the
middle and sew 10¥2-inch side seams as
the
illustration.
seams twice on the machine,
will not rip out.
inch band
malLaly,y
lap),
two
7-inch
one strip over the other
and
Sew
these
so that they
the
from
strips
2-
that you cut off the felt origsew
on
sewing
the
:
(¥2-inch
machine.
Turn sides under 2 inch and continue to
sew rows of stitching
pieced band. Press.
inches x 36 inches.
Sewing:
Cut
se-
stitching
;
then sew the top together,
pouch bag that can be made up in a very
short time, Make it to match one of the © Ctely by hand.
easy-to-make hats.
and
both sides of the top into tight pleats,
up
and
Wrap this band over the
this
down
joined, pleated
top of the bag and bring the ends together on the underside. Lap and sew.
(Collar-Box
collar-box
Bag:
Pouch
pouch
bag
takes
A
drawstring
a little
more
23
pcaiieae: {
Seana
tee
Poe re,
RES
BCA
| SE
=
Shes
:
{4
Alter cutting
off 2” ” band
©A\- of felt, fold large section
Age
Me
eeretarn
it:
Bae seas:
Aas
Eder
a
\ alae Sie
eae
pee
Bd
RRS
be peed circ
eS
ee
ss.
yoer Be
Bt
yl
Ws
Bere ames
Reacrpettoe i!
“Te
7 Sea
i
Beara
Be:
aetS
apes
HED. ie,
pease!
ergo
ee
ecraeiaere.\.
Leip
acetate
ete a
eae ees
Wipe derma war cr 2. Sa 0 eae
:
eres
eoe
Yaa
ie
f
ease nd sew ‘up side seams,
\ =~ 10¥2” from bottom.
AS
Bah ae:
ae
ome
Sa
Were
ae .
oe
or
aera.
ee
SES
oa
Be gists
Bae
7
«aera
:
Pee:
ERS Seer oo,
Bees oe
Oe
ENS
Press seams open and)
turn right side out. “3
f
3%*
leer
/}
/|
:
:
ain
eae
as ie
F
and
\t
BeSie ot
mae:
Beare)
:
ee
Shige
price |f
Arrange
if
|
We
Reh ede
;
Hae
a oie
Se
secure.
a
.,ahiieneas
=a
stgaaeee: | |
4
Ny \ See ee
Seen
WY
i
%
:
(
‘
i
Be
gies
Re
a
WER
EE
tee
(yi
ea
2
ae
oe
eee
PIEQ |
|
p))
ee:
Fs
:
f3
) Ba:
iC47
o
aN
:
ae.
\Gieee es
ane
\Ge
-
Af yo
ee
2S ates
Wiser
S
from
i
aie:
Yen fend or pleated”
23 585
bag and ine,
.séwein piece
“Ss e5 2
3 top P of
place
1 ¢
yy
strips
extra band. Sew together
ic
as shown.
WV
ae:
ge
it
tts
fae
ee
Re ee
ee gee
MENDON
sae ff f
aie
2 it
EN
& fee a
[il
, f)
fy ap
ae
ft
ge
Opies:
YBa SS
Pie
Besa it
cee:
ee
i
RB oo ee Uae
EB :
ee eee
Thi bag mag be idecoe
oe
hea
;
ee,
colored seh oryour ff |
~~
chntials
aaa
Ee
oe
15” : of 36”f felt).
ab
ee
3 Zy\
= eee
ZY
eee
ae": aes
REDS: os ae
EES
OS ae
Pee
aiee tio
\
Collar Box Pouch Bag (requires
a
Jae
Bt
Spee
[o-=------=75
ut
Set
ee
eee”
Skee
eee Binal Age
Se G----———
ee
E>
J
7
‘heangs \—— —- =F)
ee
ees
oa - - - >
--|
REE ©
ee
RR
=
Ege
“
eee
RES
ae
oecs.
Sa
Bee
ee
LEE
iy
nos
Ae
See
ie
AG eee
ree
ah
es
| See
ge asl
st
. (35
: paag
ead
gar
,
;
4
ieee
top
Sheed at
gee
ren oraare.
Sa") Seat 81°77
fee Pee easy
Soya
~
in
Ae
Curr
epee
Rabat ath its
ine Cut two. 7”
Pee ae
Sap aa
Sa
1 Re
ae
oe
es
>
pleats
Ng
eth
case aes
pene
Te eens: 3a
_
Sones 13"
Se
-
Eafe
cas
-
te
Higa
res
i aEae
TPEGe TRO
yb to
ft Ee ae
‘1
6%"
.
Shi
sf
24 ofr» BASE PATTERN ~ rec-
Ws
a
we
a
ae
Re
fagae 1
eee: ;
oe
Reese,is,
off corners
EE Sage
Ee
|
‘
Spee
corse
eran.
aie:
eee
<=
i sa
~
RM
:
ee
9 BS
ces
mg
BUCKRAM
_
ram and wire edge of buck-
=.
OS
trig of
ek [Se
(left) Sew strip of b
see
*)
ae
to same wi
ese
completed
ends-andbaae"Cieht)
sew anotherWhen
piece box
of wire
around
a
E
2
(5 TAFFETA
SS aL/NING
i
cea
oS
After
Reese)
oe
>
WR
EERE
‘TUS
wider (6 x 28").
th
2
seams
RNR
RG gees AS
HR
are sewn
aaa itee
ae
ES
2
pte ae
in lining,
fit into
Te.
44" “ At ARoun,
es
;
oo
oe
es
hi
ss
t
as
{
fe
ate
SEA
J
ae
el.
aye
a
cutting
seam
felt, except
allowance
all
make
rales saseisSees
ee ase,
HSER
oe
do
Bee
So
tee
cp
W208. 82
BAND
Lge
BAND
by
pa
BES!
ee BS a
ate:
epics
BAND
Te
ee
oe
$42"
ae
aR
Spee
= oe
Geena ese
accra earings
aN merits
OrR ee
eS
meni
£
‘,
a:
pe
See
:
ne
——
See
He
Be
edges of strip to bag.
LIBMARY
Bee
Ne
Fis-
COLLEGE OF AGRICOLT:
=
UMIVERSITY OF WiSGORs:
ae
a
Y
ae
Bess
eee
your<2}
felt, 3”
trom top
(machine) both
:
Be
SERS
ee
ie
hey band lengthviee a
as
ie
es
Pd
arge piece of
edge.
Sew
Neri
Bia
around.
al
ey +
hae
|
4
1
ee
aes
Hie
14”
(Follow lavout in cutting felt.) |
4
i
Nees
:
oe
same base pattern for
\ les
‘\
‘
Soe
ese
ete
a_i]
‘
ee
rr
=
25
gee
Use
hs
|
\
or ee
turning
lining in’place.
nD!
SEAM ALLOWANCE
oak
<i
a gRA ee
ay,
buckram-base,
taffeta aover edge. ;of wire. Tack
to
Mn
ee
ane
Re Ge Basch box with taffeta lining, using same measure
Anahi case nents. except make seam allowance and make long strip,
MONA
5
as shown.
Using this pattern, cut buck-
Beep
|
SE
tangle 7%” x 814”. Round
Higa
eae:
—
~
af
MADIROR
oy
—_—
———
28" —_—_———>
ee
=.
Bee
ee
E|
oe
OT) Be
ay!
1
ae
u,
+h
i
=
3
admis
oe
a
ANTES
aee
aaie
g\\
||
eS.
pet BASE Le
ee Eee
slits
run
Bo
Sew
in
band
a
cord
side
ZZ
Barve:
nsert
= -*
base
taffeta
into
felt ba
sto bot-
oe
ae
(ee
E ifhrough banding
Bits
GY
right
out.
a
ae
geared
)
bag
:
es
Le=--
Make
Xb
aa
»-<Furn
eae
oe
|
ae
Be
hee
kegs 2g
.
<
a \ ae
‘ee
side) and make. side sant
seam. Press seam opens: "3.
Be
oF
e
ee:
M\
bottom
SE
P|
|otSo
eS
lined’:
of
~
ICK RA
Ty Saasse
ee
time to make because there is
section that must be made first.
Inner Section:
After making
:
cut buckram base, wire
edge.
an
inner
base pattern
Cutting: Take a strip of buckram
x 28 inches and sew this piece to
wire used in the base of the bag.
Lap the buckram, sew up the
wire the top of the collar box.
Line this box with taffeta. Use
4 inches
the same
of the
seam
around)
pattern
(allow
and then
sew
Y%4-inch
the base
all
the base to a strip
of taffeta 6 inches x 28 inches.
26
lap, and
Fit the taffeta lining into the base, bring
top edge of taffeta over edge of box and
tack
in place.
The
base
pattern
:
2
is used again when
(Saris
you cut your felt, and again 14-inch seam
allowance is made all around the edge.
After your felt is cut, start to assemble
by piecing the band sections. Lay one end
1/3 inch over another end and sew twice
on the sewing machine.
Lay this pieced band lengthwise on
your 28 inches of felt, about 3 inches from
the
top
edge.
Sew
oii”
Ree
oe
CA\ te
a) galas.
ae
PSE
ee aea
we
=
‘
Bice aes
pase
in- er
s
Hebe
‘\
Se herr A
ae
(band
ee Lh]
he
pes
felt
ae
.
aa Se
Fold
s Co
a
Soca
C0
‘\
ee
;
as
es eo):
Rees
\y
ee
oe
ee
a
“al
es
the
edges. Do not turn under.
band
along both
Fold this section of felt (band inside)
a oe
side seam.
‘
ress the seam open with a warm iron
and a damp cloth.
,
Fit the oval bottom
main section. Baste and
:
:
¢
section into
then sew on
Run one yard of cord (or “Tubing,” see
Chapter V) through the binding. Finish
the cord with a knot at each end. Stitch
the
ends together.
Overnat thet
d
fb
fold:
s
4
ed inlceacegmeiene
the felt inside.
the
the
sewing machine.
Warn the bag Bud maketwo altean the
banding (at eachvsiderothne mde seam).
Insert the taffeta-lined collar box into
the bottom of the felt bag. Tack it to the
Overcast the edges of the slit so that they
sides of the bag
will not tear out.
PROFILE
“CUT-OUT”
For this “profile” hat, use a crown that
has been decorated by
all around the edge.
ee
ake
Hat
means
et
strip
galine,
o:
some
Sel
an
your head.
(ben-
that measures
ee
HATS
and cut away all the top part, leaving
a fitted band about 24” wide all around
:
sti material
oe
strings tig iv
stay in
Take a basic crown that fits your head
of cutouts
iff
faille, taffeta)
She sst a
so that it will
place.
which
12
will
Now
cut out circles of felt
measure
need
15
234”
or 20
and asthe
each
circles
: Draw gat
erimg
circles.
Sew
with
may
used
with
secre: This
Pives
you
a tam
or pouf
effect. Sew to one side
of the crown. Top the outside of “tam”
with a large button, or piece of felt cut to
all
be
around
in
diameter.
of these.
band
You
Place
felt
overlapping
hidden
the
stitches.
or without
Hat
trimming.
Fora good “remake” a pastel felt was
first steampressed and the brim of the hat
size. This center trim motif should “match”
was made
the cut-outs you have
(Use circles,
squares,
angles, etc.)
strip of felt was used to make a large bow
and thena lovely harmonizing flower trim
is added to one side as illustrated.
made in crown. _
half-moons,
tri-
if
a
Be
AN
BY
ae
UMTS
AE.
‘ i.
cf
ay
See
Yi
f
\
eS
J
A
z=
%
i.
1
i.
=
TB
x
interesting
a
wpe,
bis:
oe
-a
QS
Yow
|| (J
\
Aye
CY
:
F
CHE
eH
3 ee |
wD
%
GNA
SS
SagesR
eS
Wg.
pS
CA
CSA
felt circles outlining ©
gives a crown-
«
Ye.
le
jak:
ANE
we
,
ae
TY .
RA
Ae
=
\
*
AN.
Ae
(SJ
E
like effect
See
COO 22ND
RA
the band
‘Gi
LVN
o~
babii
The
ON
NARS
Ie
Bela
B
=x
~
Wy
{
QR
aA
Fee
ie
side trim
:
IGee
DP
An
Le
Ae
aN
a
\«e7
ri
A
aN
4
aes 4Yy
aW/ PON
eV¥
ee
YG,
» BBYT
into a long strip of felt. This
ee
a
Sg
icaseet
See
Foie
27
SRI
RY Nae
BP
Ss a oF
tales
Ow cme
ate
ie geet
RN ae
ra
pescaptctOFameOER
Ree
is
>
“>.
CR+ Sad
/
\ I]
ON
eek
=e
meee
NY
Ae
Lal
pene Be
oh UESON IR
BF
famaeead
Je,eth.\ SR
<
Ss
Z
nn?
1
ch
:
Fes
A
Bea sgh
ab REE
F sncs
Ooty)
hs
Rate
Na
=e Soar
\
ae
e i aoe
onthe
Chapter Fwe
PROFESSIONAL
Cutting
materials
for hats
differs
DETAILS
from
OF
MILLINERY
straight cut end
(or crosswise
thread)
to
cutting materials for clothes. Here you
will be using materials almost always on
the bias. It is easy enough to establish a
bias when you can see the selvage. It is
lie parallel with the selvage (or lengthwise thread). Mark the fold (running
diagonally at a 45° angle) with pins or
chalk or press a light crease. It is import-
harder when you are working with
or small pieces of material. Look
ant to do this because it can mean the difference between a “homemade hat” and a
scraps
at the
weave. Ater you recognize the straight of
“hand-made creation.” Don't try to cover
the goods, you will be able to find your
8 frame
beans
means!
When material is cut on bias grain it is
unless
pees
you
know
ae doting
what
a i
“bias
os
nl
the most pliable. A bias strip of fabric
:
bs
;
will stretch in width as well as length.
8%¢
Working with the material,
and
wi
therefore get a clean, professional effect.
j
It is this elastic quality
Meeehl
i
by
lias
ae
h oe
4
i
tov
:
use
in
that makes
li
™
ees
:
a!
When Coren. a frame, bias is ae
to
smooth on; in making a crown, bias will
stretch to fit the headsize without giving
the hat a tight and uncomfortable feeling.
To
28
cut material
on the “bias,”
Bias bands and tubings may be shaped
bias
k
*
s
steam-pressing.
One
of the
few
exceptions
to ‘cutting
on the bias” is the basic 6-section crown.
You can cut this on the straight of the
goods because the curved upper half of
the pattern will automatically rin on the
fold the _ bias.
ae
Tha AST
A
NO
MER a, Hag
Reg
ea
TA
Pi
he
ane Kaa
ea NG el
nS ae
ay Bes SC ohn
REI Sa A
CE
e
e heer
A Riki
ey
it
ee
Conti ere st Nae
ig
nt
ti
es Th
NG Ge aC
Ce UR
N
RRO
BS
CRRRLD Ue
EAC MT Uber
RA
cammeiR
Rice
Io Os
HeVAT
nLnT
Teh
oe eee aMPRanne harun IUML HL WU TEUeS VS
LAS MU
ee
ann
koieee
CARON
sh a nse is
Ot (MUR
nae acme
Ra
cd G Ea
eae
Sraningea
eobhan
trata
Na
me
crag
a
aT Na
terebaG1Pye tc a DICEDRaa
MVer a
TAN
Rn
PARI
at
USN
ei
ae
tern Th Rae eho
aioe ON
TL
Eatin
6 aue euaeuc RANIBh
i eM
net
MRA
aemay
versa
Ree
Pia Re
a
ale ae See
ne
e
PpaHN Si Tiga m
cthey Ale EN Ie ea iene Sa
SCO
thie is Panesar aay AGM
ermaa i
Fa
dece
toc lc Ova
ANIM
ET
enumerate
NIN5
ea
aan ea
R Ae alata
e
RK aK ao An Bona SAUNA CM
Asia
se Mena
l Teemu
HON BTW ANaaa ee Weare
HH ns
si ear aca
AN
ty PARMAMLR
ce ea
as utd
etait
Seite i ch
ER AM ae AIRES ny TS hy Ul
a
kay
Id
CUO
Ron
ORH
NCHA
en
NES
ae
Cease
Rrcinc
RAM:
piY
Lea
prst
Se
Me
MMII ee
ae LTCC Mp Rt,Tne aGay) TAME
TH icereachSSS
earRteenGSs Eas
OUR LC EeeChae
CRRea elUNCSEUpresBrae ra ah
ST acs UH MN
SEWN MLA vn Mir
Peleesmea
ieee!
hd
aaneS
paantc
MAL
M
a
ve
man
Pts Se A
MO
DAN ici itig
AM NE Visine |ode ree y OU
On ekaWPAIRLeA ner NGA ee or estaSIR Tanmm AeRSA
AR R
Ne
eR
n
al
eee
AG
PUT
Rr
a
nai
SW Oane
SUE
AMS ari Lt ae) Pe is
PUES
aga
Ce
Hai re
Nala liaass
GT AM Mies NT
A S HE aa
ane
A
PP AICaN Tay R Matti
an ana
ate
hasidtvah
mt Siang ACN
Mar C MDE
SE eaSy POS PEREA LLINaN Fe
a
aa AER Sr
ee)
ak ec
nn
OC
ea
aia Een Vana, eee
} Le
s MSSO
U
R
a eea SP
RS UE ay
SAG
Ce
MEE
3c
CRS CR
eh Ave
yt
Rt paar ETON aS eS
TITRA AS
SUMMA Chis Pcl
aRn
Hae GeS
OO
Re
rain)
enaDcRain
O
tree Hearieg tp y
RNIN
sp
EaRy
Ree
apne
ee
te) PRE
Vo
Poe GAS ROM
RC
TAR MEN
eA
CEST
ita Pe
Haas
aan
an
vi
PSUR
MR
an
MO
aNRMb
ROWWE
E Tiana
Nes uy
Mi Sunn
ane
oa
aie
hcp
GC
Ctr
ROW
ice aH
Dp ane
a
OOS FUE
es O | NEU
nRn
MAND
oN NsO fa
(then
9
Gri P
ake ne
fs
MU
SCAR
EAT
ON s TNRA wsa ALM PL
van
Saa
Caulk,
(CAML
TEODOR
Or
AG
Be
ee
yati ie
une
ONY
4MIE
IeRANN eR
Neda e Saoa VeE
Re a)
eR
ep
NH
EN
ONC
hal
Eri staac Tea est
ee RAN
ne A
PERE chit Cor
he
luc
Si MR
HM
IURNE
hh
}
neat an ae Wg
EVN ASN
Liam
Bs
ih
D
e
Hams basta
PON
esty
F
er
yi
i
‘
N
sy
6)
lial |
BANG
ay)
Pr
rs
Bye
aes,
ui
ao
ORES
Mar sau ayer)
FSU WAT 2
aan
ns
ae
(
AD Sie Se
UInie aA BAMOn aoc eit a onRD
REA Ee
Ue
aneeee
ASBBuna
i
tasting
ssSUS U
:
ay
:
‘
neon
a
rece ay
Divare
ee
ANAS seat
Degg
URL
ROM
Hi
oat wet
Mie
ses ibe ne)
as:
ENG a
EE Ae
MyLan
MI Tone
3)
Sahat ie
a
ane
Ee
Sa
ates
jen
aa ee
Le
hh Octo
eH
Le
RE
BARA
amaneN
coli ta
ape
a anulL
sai
i
ate
UG
tes aioe
cave N sine Sot Gi aeenetas
anaeien ssy
ah
Hu
Ua
Bear
onreat eei eae
!
i
RES
oa
ae
To
|
ae
Peienuees | a
UH
CSM
LAN SI
ee
a
ake es Ne
a
A
Re pe
Legg Ns Sia
st ee RRR
US atin7 bi A
ReaLa i Va MIU as
ane snr
u i
ese
A
ACG AS REL Min
HU
Gal aM
omenuc
felis! hice Bele
Ce eager
ua
pant Oc
Ve
MRT
CARR A
on Ar
Tey A U TUT
Uebe AMR Alte Gar
cain CGA
e fet ane
Raa
se Sea
aD aih ieaie SU
Mer iee
ee e
Ae
ah
Can
re
tieEereas Ra
’
sas
:
ly
i SK) SOFA BAEK3) Sat via i
Sa TRH VASA
PAR ieUR
NA t ha
RM BEA
a Hv
ne atKg NO
ea
THESe
Pac
DR
eM a
aN A es UA
Ps
Ay
a
rinks
a
PML mn at
us)ay
ME)
AUS
aan
En
TRAe
ee
WOR
nme
a
My ie an
1 yen
ie MOLY pant an mS
Baa
aA CU marcy aie
soning
Baareriee
ANCLeMEL) 8 Wee EN Ra
ca
Den
te
Paitin ar
\
at! DAR Sastre BH amr
y GNC REN TC
Cis.
f
NO
nied PTE AMIR OSU
UR Matin es Oh ICON Me cNeaa erty,
ee
Rv)
ofan ay
PAU NaC
Aaa
Ae A
PIA Misr
Te serany wee aan lis ALENT hesdah
L
pS Biles Sry MMe
ea
im
Oe
31
SAAT GH SMB
BAUD
,
ne t
OM
MIRC
el aCe
‘Anais
a cuihy aL
i
EM
PEW
cee
PRS
t
are
NOR
:
SAGAS
We
Ls
a
\
AL
ey
ke
Lael
hi
a
ene au
i
ORCI
2h
erin
ey
PRIM
an
ts Bes
Maer te lsh Ute
KAN SeasTRYA
ge
Re
sidatnega netNRUAN
EAI hs RR
BRL
GTaY RPag eAST
SUS
TY
Pele
HELE s SSNGU Ae i
as
Bei
ute GIN
i
ed
eye
ec aMNL
AHide
U UNT IM } amauta
UME ee a2 Rata
Pe : Lc Meun
x
aero
Nan
ele
ys
ue
ae
HNC
aea
aR
Fes
TOU
RGU
aes
ae sie ch hater el)
f
Ne
0fo)
SK Gs
GIy
ROR
SFist
act:
SIMalae Arieee
HUTTE
ME
CMHC
Cee
oct Ora UR
e
AD e
Aree
a Leer
TA
Ra!
PERNA
ie ariCANe a, ea
iter
REA
UaeNY SAA
ie PREG:
MAL APA au aa} HRS kt TeHWE
as
Ae ia Rein
& Pee EN alae Be
a
iy
GAM
ka
OCR4 yee MIT
ERMU :
ESAT eR eo lei
Me
ner NG
tp aeamenatae,
as aap Ne
LU
ae RU aRe MNT nC
Riana
aati a\its utiy
Hi
Aae Ceaoe AN
Mier ta NUne
nancyne ane
eaAN
an Dhsevere
aed
a SUSCN
VU NCC
am
Me
Ban e
aha
ROE
RU gai An Ont ava
an Acti er
Ge aitcu han PRU AU OM Ne Pocie
ice Meath
Bea
yhee
a
Te
FAST SCR TP
MESSa TAU
NecaROURa NUTR hth
PN
ein Cpa Clay URN
A DA
PMU
en it
hele
Ch
rican ny). A caaie Ne ts Maa eit
atDk C]
NY Gi TWA
alae SEAL
SERS ma
Tania
NA AM NULO Veh MTE
acn
e
RUS
eeL
en
Tea
ce
miN
gala
Ht
NG a
GNAURSAY UG LUSH RMN anata
era CO
Ta ea TN e ar
ane nl ONLies 8ST MSE
AN TUN AO
Cia ene
NT c Memi
re
re
PRL
Aen RISD
Sat Aea Ue
‘BR MeN
PA
UL
7
PMO
MMO UA MTNA
eee ga)
Eh Mh a sth tion Gs A lath Hae Se lectenlp eal
a egMDA
Ua ac
eh AUR ORY Ra RL A
f
Me
Cai r ae
Te Ie Ca
cating Tears
en aataice SUS
Roe
HCN ARNEGivi ERM ath IOS
ae A:
ben
i
tet
hay
EO ee
RMI
.
T ray Cy Any
Se
ae
e
ava
S
CMA
N
Rear
aS
RG
ery
LOG
Cree
MNALH ARS SS
Mike
iM Bie aSaree
e WMA R UAE
aaa aM ee
aap
Wie
Raisins HN ans Dy ps : eeva eterHase
aaa) Deal
NA Uaey
CINGAMei ey Sy bbe hres. ahaaAyu i Ke che
RUC
appeal pan th a hwotat nee thu. NaeSeda
AHERY
CH gb yee McK
aUat aa Mai SAMEev PNPcats
Ser PUAN
SUL
Malte,
LA
We
ih
aan
RACV
IN
A
GA
RO
W
Nh
Ss
Vans
LacU
He
pada
MAN
i
eT
PUD OUHche haihonn
C at:NURcys
paa
WSN a Set CE
EURENA UE CORIO
WAY: URA
Na
PKC
aA Ra
ae
EE BahesHUE
SEhs aeMa pe Ua
AG ATRIA ATS
ae TEthe MUG ys
Nocera
LEIIEA MR aE NSB
ao a
SCN SN
Da A
te
AIAG
ReBODES
Pe
A
PVPR
RU C
Maan AenEAe)A CLTGelsBi RO
P
MACE ena
UTE RONNaS ni
UA Lice
Cina PRI
yeh CACHE
enikSHEA
AAO Bl a
FeAl Sa
a a
ORI BR8 SOU
E AR
Palit A sali GAT areata
WAU
A
UEas RBA RGARUUE NR
PTSD
ea
RG nM Eze)A Rena SNL Cear
eee Wialnne
ici sunnaai BAU
RP
Extn
Te
alice itarsyy Mrllcd ay nha asaa AHI A ay aeAeA ue AS
HES AN UNC Eat INL a
Pca
en
ra
ici
h
m
a
r
a
Tea aAniOa: REA
OR
Yack
aN RU TARY
Nr
RAE
Br lotta len Mh DAR A
eyny
Seat
eet Bir er GAR At eins eich
Dae Meee ae tein i Peo
Ra
; bal a CA
IRN eG eA ACURA
Ba
NeaRG ALUN,
NEN Uh aa aay Ay
aN MEHR
nat cre at ANae
AY File A
Pa
euih | ROW
LUMO
A
RPO
Dea
a
aA
n
UUe
neera
N
S
Raaasel
he
Me
WaT
caMa
cani
g
a
t
tr aks pts
s
anauti
aR SMM
‘ah
ied
A NS CRE aae
\cinarmlicsallo hy Nek Woe get ey ZA! ey
aSr eS
Scab Rae
IN
ii PPAWN ASIN
Fecegueni HEE
ea
AE IAN 6 rauNin
Ht ae Lit Rs Wed he
lsios
4 ih
PACSU
N
PC
S
\
eas eoAMM Le
Ree Ea
CuO
MeN VL
PRR
EDO
HyPOR
Spey:
i
i
aN
BOM
Pathe
aL N SG
WifeONC
hice re)
CC
MNS ORs NAM Lan
ORE AR AUN, Aaa
MnSMaTnN Gr inetaua i Taian
Tua ole
iy wa hebn
TAMIR AMM RS
i ea
ay er Sees se
ee
east ae
AURORE
elPi aU aan
Ugo Ns ula
ENS Q
aN
a
Or yuna
Ae
ces
ee
aia
a
Hat De ag
a# Bail
eataU PTAsMaNit Seaoeats
Re
RE
ta
ae
3 es
Re I Re sutaent etn aun Silt Wine
a CARY ree
Meta r UNE SORES
CTU AG
E
et
BUN at al d,
ieRAM
Rea a
cv
i
a
ed
sneer
e
ee
Raila
sc
ato
a ratin
waigs
OTD
Hit
aaa
cea
ee
,
2
SOAR.
es
EGE URE
;
2
also cover your wire with a
You may
circled banding
of felt or straw;
may want to turn back
or you
eae
in rare
a
I
ears.
:
hee eee
the edge of the
PRR
brim, giving in effect a hem. In this case
far back from the edge as the width you
want for your hem.
pss
3
s
=
catching your stitch only on the underside
“~“%,
the
brim,
then
turn
back
the
straw
or
felt over the wire and sew, shaping as you
sew. Steam-press the edge to finish.
HOW
TO
MAKE
A
ideal
fotbetnew
and
it doesn’t
taleta
you
can
taffeta slips,
material
dresses,
falls
blouses.
down
inside
have
Any
your
other
crown;
Sr
ees
Fy
:
a
Fit lining into hat; sew just below juncture
of crown and brim. Cut off excess material—
cover raw edge
the edge
under,
with
grosgrain
as headsize
ribbon.
ribbon
goes
over the raw edge to finish it. The stitch
that holds the lining can be rather large.
This lining will fit in almost any hat,
Because your head is round and because your head fits up into your hat, your
ota er
\ At:
ae
mulizerold
standing up.
Bye
oe
eR
taffeta has the necessary body to keep it
lining
Sapa
LINING
material,
EM Setot
es Reig ag P.
"Geen e er
Pasa
Make linings for all frame hats. Taffeta
is the
ein pi
SOR Res a
Sew the wire first,
of
se
eo
é
your wire would not be sewed on the edge,
but would be sewed on the underside, as
Oa
cehe
an
be
blocked
round
or
ocked to shape.
but if your hat is very
make an easier lining.
Lining
for Shallow
after Foundation
Six-Section Crown Lining: Use the 6section crown pattern (Foundation Crown
Pattern No. 1) for hat linings when the
shallow,
Hat:
Crown
Cut
you
your
No. 2, pin
can
lining
(use
lots of pins!) and stretch this piece of material to your block. Steam-press and let
dry. Again, the secret is to stretch while
crown is deep.
damp!
After cutting out and sewing the 6 sections together, put lining on the block,
seam sides up. Now stretch the material
over the block, pinning the seams open.
Fit the lining into the hat, then trim
away any excess material. To finish, cover
the raw edge with grosgrain.
Blocked linings may be purchased at
Steam-press
each
seam
separately;
take
out pins and repin, stretching material a
little more while it is damp. The material
will conform to the block, and the result
is truly professional.
An “outside” 6-section crown is blocked
in this same way.
When the lining dries, take it off the
block and fit it into the hat.
Pin it all around at the juncture of
crown and brim. Cut off excess lining just
inside the edge and sew. You do not turn
50
any
millinery
supply
house.
If you
find
you don’t like to make linings, you might
lay ina supply of these, even though they
are not as nice as the ones you can make.
HOW
TO
SEW IN A HEADSIZE
RIBBON
(A) In flexible felts or straws, sew
your headsize ribbon into your hat with a
running stitch, using a large stitch under,
anda very small stitch on top of the ribbon.
The small one is almost no stitch at all
:
and can be hidden in the grain of the rib-
crowns out of materials. The term ‘blocked
bon. This is called a hidden. stitch.
The circled ribbon is placed in the
crown at the juncture of brim and crown,
and the stitch runs along this juncture.
hats,” however, applies primarily to felts
and straws.
Blocking will either shrink or stretch,
and you use a block the same size as your
Ribbon
head
is not sewed on both edges. Be
careful
not
to
let the
stitch
show
on
the
top side of your hat.
so that your hat will be your size
when
it
is
completed.
A.
nonheadsize
blocked hat is usually made on a 22-inch
Handle
your felt or straw carefully
block. This will fit average headsizes.
while sewing in the headsize. As you sew,
A good preliminary for blocking felts is
you will have to bend parts of the hat, but _ this: Sprinkle water all over your hood or
do it so gently that the line of the hat will
body —just
as you would
dampen
a
not be broken or lost.
blouse that is to be ironed. Roll it up and
(B) For Frame Hats: In making a frame
t
i
hat, you will need to make and sew in a
ae
Nee
§
rf
lining before putting in your headsize. Because the crown is stiff, it is a little harder
to sew in the headsize.
ni Be
wg
Rese
SSR
ome
I
i
few
“eis
«oy
RHA
SaSENN
errr Y
ote,
SR Re
tb,
ia
Si
Se
Rare
.
Wibntioriaagrstares
Seana
fe ps8005",
TE \\\\. Beene
AN SSCS =
oS Aer:
eS
SNS
SS
AGERE NSS SS
SS SSS
tea
Frame
After
sewing
and
om
hat
Aa
ae)
date en
SME
SE
finished
with
trimming your lining,
Force the FEN edge with the circled headsize. Use a diagonal or zigzag stitch. Ona
:
aie
f
.
stiff crown, you will find this easier than
es lai
3
titch
Ru
Gee
eel
HOW
TO BLOCK A HAT
ae
NS he
saan
Rpeeniecee pitt):
egret
n ennecmaamaams
OK ye (4 VAS
ARN QO
Fe seroma
a os
eee
Thi
Note: Do not cut the crown from the
brim until after the crown is blocked.
Bovagammrseee TAR
aurea See \\\\ i
Siete
RED
<
TR
hours.
eee wrapped hae for a few
hours This
allows the moisture to penetrate the fibres
fi
Fae
of the hat and softens the sizing.
lining
we Sus ee ster
and
Work
ek
headsize
Ss
ae
ribbon.
with the whole
hat.
(B) Blocking the Crown: Stretch the hat
Rat
‘
block. If you wear a large-sized
lL
hat, you will find that the dampened felt
will now stretch over your large block.
Steam-press it. Never let the hot iron
over the
touch the unprotected felt!
(A)
Blocking
Processes
tensively in Millinery. We
Are
Used
Ex-
When
your
crown dries,
you
will
find
have pointed
it to be the exact size and shape of your
out various instances where blocking is
much superior to pressing when making
block, and furthermore, it will stay that
way — unless you choose to reblock it.
31
shin:
shale
ne
ee
a
ee
< So
aes
re
\
ce
SE
epee
ae
>
be a
oe
GO
oe
SE
ye |
2
‘
ee
\
NE
\
a eS
After you
understand
the
principle
of
steaming the felt all over evenly, you need
not sprinkle your hat beforehand. You can
start to work immediately. Keep your towel
et
Gare
SB
a
ee
i
:
es
Sane:
Sa
»*
%
=
ea
iss
oe
i
=
—
—
x
ceases
very wet.
After your crown is blocked, be sure to
let it dry thoroughly before taking the hat
off the block.
\
come ee
(C)
Working
with Fancy
Blocks:
You
follow this same procedure when you are
working with fancy blocks. A “fancy” is
Blocking
the
crown
of a
felt
hat.
Use
hot
a wooden
iron, wet cloth s-t-e-a-m.
Iksi
ow
at.
Y
suppose
You may
is |
you
ely
tind
crown is loose on your
wear
a
sma
heal
that the
Blecleiln
block.
|-sized
dampene:
thi
qd
In this case,
you will need to steam-press and pull
di
:
;
own gently to shrink. Gradually you will
find that the felt is shrinki
Teas
f
ind that the felt is
shrinking to the size o
er TE
» A
:
;
i
that
has
some style
ture carved into the wood
N
ie
block
Ieee
stance,
it might
or
E
a
d
peaked
ere
ales
are
have
an
itself. For inindented
d
crown, or a squared-olt
Kendred
hundreds
o
f
fea-
ff
diff
itterent
crown
crown.
I
style
i
Steam-press
your hat over a fancy
Bleck
dit
will
in
th
4
d
ock, and it will retain the exact size an
shape of the block.
These
than
round
crowns,
terest to
Don’
ont
.
is out —
If
you
3
possible
i
dad
le
but they vary and
a
style inyour hat.
“
is
.
stop blocking until every wrinkle
‘
they will come out!
a
ae
do not have a fancy block, it is
A
5
to make a substitute, using your
Don't be afraid of hurting your felt
wooden
round
straw) —~ it was
especially
processed
(or
so
that it can be steamed and pulled into
shape.
On the other hand, don’t pull too hard
at any one point. You can pull a hole init,
especially some of the softer felts and the
finer straws.
Work gently and unhurriedly. You will
learn to let the steam do most of the work.
32
5
are harder to block
Ss you pull
and
steam-press, get the
feeli
f
Idi
ith
fi
a
eeling of molding with
your
fingers, just
I
as a sculptor would do. Have your towel
5
:
wet and keep it that way. Do not iron—
is
Z
ut keep the steam going through the
a
kK
t
fabric by moving the iron over the wet
Sloth
block
as a base.
Making Fancy Tips for Hat Blocks: There
are lots of ingenious ideas —~ here are two
that my students have used.
Take the corner end of a small stiff box.
[t should measure about 31 inches across.
Stuff it with tissue and thumbtack it upside down to the front of your block.
Another idea is to take an old electric
cord from a discarded iron and coil it
eee
eye e em
\
eae
es
3, SOR
4 ee
25,
TE
__ BLOCK
1
a
Home
Block
I
ies
made fancy,
tips and
ea
§
FE a
resultant
:
a
te E
ee
+ Res.
f2
pate?
ps
BLOCK
gs
4
blocked
Boe ty!
tee
es
&
ae
ae
e
Ve
Ee
ie
SSG
tes!
sf
2
te
oat
Soe
ie
FE
ot
eee:
a
“ae
Ss
TRE
ye
be
-
WS
b
e
Se
>
cee
he
hee
igs
ss
BLOCK _ see
:
felt
crowns.
(a)
Small
box
aT
<a
eens
(b)
electric
cord.
Fancy Tips Out of Material:
If
round and round. Fasten it to your block
Making
and block your hat over that.
We have experimented with the lids of
coffeepots, small paint buckets turned upside down, the inner cardboard core of a
roll of toilet paper stuffed with tissue
you are really ambitious, you can make
fancy tips out of buckram or cardboard;
many professional milliners do this.
Here is a suggestion for making a fancy
crown tip out of buckram:
312
Cuta 3¥/-inch circle to use as a pattern;
inches, wooden spools, bottoms of cups or
sauce dishes turned upside down over the
block, empty powder boxes, baking-powder tins, etc., etc. The variety of small
lay the pattern on buckram and cut out.
Wire the edge of the buckram circle. Take
a strip of buckram 2 inches wide and as
long as the circumference of the circle
cut
and
until
the
is
length
about
objects that can be used is endless;
(allow for Y2-inch lap in back).
the
problem is to find things that can be attached to the block. If you use anything
metal or china, it is hard to keep it in place
Sew this strip to the same wire used in
wiring the top section. Use the overcast
stitch. After sewing the lap in the back
of the “box,” wire the bottom edge.
—~ under control — while you block. Card~
To make buckram stiffer, cover with
several coats of shellac. After it is dry,
better because
to the block.
board gadgets are much
they can be thumbtacked
IR a Aaa ace
tai Pomeroy abate
ae
iene
nck
eA
a
Bek
Bu
Sar
—.OR
(a)
Cut and wire 3%”
a
es
%
apace
=pe
aeete
aR oo ewe
et ar
ee rege
ee aS,
(Sear
Se eae
circle of buckram.
(b)
Sew
2” strip of buckram
ME
Keene:
Aegeee Eee i
to same
wire.
(c)
Wire bottom of tip after ends are joined.
35
ot 1
ae
:
Fos SLR
SER
efs e
M e es a So etao
egi
Ree
sie
te
eS
fe y
aa
Bye
ered
HA
ere
F
At
; ae
ee
sssane
se =e
jaie
ae
Bae
ite
MY
eeea oe
“3Mi
SS
age os
a
for home
Ideas
Fe
ers
a.
a Rores
.
CIS
ees
SRR DIS
fees
aes.
pats:
ee
eS
ie
Be ak
ai
$
ae
ey
e
p ero
[AROS
este
re
Sees
yo
a
She
pipers
herons
aah! “A
‘
Be
KE.
5%.
Fae
Z
aol
made
fe
Sen ec P* 9
shires te
a
fancy tips,
made
out of
and very stiff, stuff the tip tightly with
tissue. You now have a tip which can be
tacked to the block and which is strong
enough to withstand reasonable pressure
of the iron in the blocking process.
This is the simplest kind of tip (a
“square” tip can be made just as easily
After you have
and in the same way).
k
se,
out something a
wor
made one of the
.
You will get lots of
little more intricate
ideas just from looking at hats on the
street or in the stores. Pick out the blocked
crowns and try to visualize just what kind
of an object or shape made that particular
kind of style interest. Remember that tips
are set on top of the block; therefore they
should not be made too large.
}
Bek?
ae Poe)
x :
ete
Bitty
ps.
eee
Me
5
ae
SRRE pide
a
oS aca,:
TN:
Sc a Si
CSR
hee
¥
2
Beta
"2
gia
+ fags
gus
samme.
———
buckram
and wire
and stuffed with tissue paper.
paper pattern and cut out the head opening. Cut the pattern at the center back
and lap the outer edge of the ends.
Take the excess lap out of the pattern
and using the pattern, cut 6 or 8 layers of
the
about
cardboard
Use
cardboard.
weight of the kind that comes in laundered Se
shirts.
Sew the ends of each cardboard layer NS
together and then ‘‘nest” the layers, one
2
on top of another. Sew the combined layers together, using heavy thread and a
strong needle. This will give you a fairly
strong surface upon which you can block
a felt or straw brim.
usaysttte
gt
Down Brim Block: A “down” brim block
can easily be made with cardboard. De5
;
:
termine the size brim you want — make a
Sig
erg-
eM
Bien
ea
ete
ee
a eee
Di
Brim
Block
Make
34
6
(a)
Cut
brim
or 8 cardboard
pattern.
layers
like
Take
out back
pattern.
(c)
section
as indicated
Nest cardboard
and sew seam.
layers and
sew together.
(b)
Blocking the Brim: The brims of felts and
straws are also blocked. There are many
kinds of wooden brim blocks, but they are
cumbersome and expensive. Their purchase is not justified unless you are going
to make a great many hats all with the
same style of brim.
A good substitute is your padded bread
way. Add more if you intend to turn under
the edges of the hat in finishing.
Sometimes it is wise to take your crown
measurement from an old hat that you
have on hand.
| want to stress one point here that holds
true throughout your hat making: Block
your crown on your block as you will wear
board. Of course, you will not be able to
the hat! If it goes on the back of the head
block a Breton or a bumper brim on this
flat surface, but there are lots of other
styles that you will be able to make.
After blocking your crown and letting
(this applies also to linings) put your material on the back of the block. If it will be
worn forward, block it toward the front
of the block.
it dry, you are ready to cut the brim from
the crown. Where to cut depends upon
whether you want a shallow or a deep
crown and whether you want a hat that
After your brim is cut from the crown,
pin it to your padded bread board. The
widest part of your brim should be the
front of your brim.
CENTER
FRONT
Fea
teen aie
Spies
(|
eS
|
oases | A
i
sdeeaee
A
ante ~anisg
Bg oe
Va
er
a:
Cup
"Mp .
ee
aa
GN
See
ee ees
NB
for
forward
£) %
ree deans
See
eds ees
;
oe
|
eh
Rep Se
'
Seat
ow.
Eas
Scere.
58
4
4
‘
“Ne
|
re
eyeline
|
g pe ie
BLOCK
Cutting
ae
Eee
os
(left)
Pte ale ae
SRR
a
(
|
:
FRONT
eo
Rees |//
aed
evewme\
CENTER
lean
pag!
Shenae
sits back on your head or one that tilts
forward.
Measure your own head, top front to
back and from one side to the other, and
then transfer these measurements to your
crown with a chalked line. Add ¥ inch
below this line to give yourself a little lee
(right)
Cutting
Sat
ene
Ros
BLOCK
crown.
eae
guide
for
a
off-the-face
crown.
If you are using a pattern, you will lay
your brim on the flat board and steampress, pin and pull until it is approximately
the right size. Cut after the pattern, and
let dry.
If you are not using a pattern, you can
play around with it and possibly make up
35
ee
ks
ae —
era
ea
2
Poe
2
Lees *
ee
rai
isles
ieee
Meee
ESS
SK
Padded
Bread
Board —
sure
Be
pins
are placed atan angle so you can steam-press between them.
your own style. In this case, pin the brim
to the board just as it fell from the crown.
Pin all around the edge of brim and also
in the center. Stick your pins in at an angle
that will allow you to steam-press between
them.
The brim should lie flat, more or less
round in shape, at the outer edge. The.
(where you cut away the
inside edge
should also lie flat and without
crown)
wrinkles. It should be oval in shape and
as large as your crown in size. If it is
irregular and smaller than headsize, it can
always be trimmed out. If the felt tends
to bunch along this inside edge, you will
have to stretch, steam-press, and pin until
the excess felt has been worked out.
Stretch the felt (when it is soft from
the steam) toward the center. Be sure that
the outer edge is pinned down securely
all around.
oe
Pi i
4
i
2
:
(a)
36
After
If this stretching makes
either crown or brim.
The brim goes over the crown. Pin the
center fronts together and puta couple of
tentative pins (you may want to change)
on each side.
Seat yourself in front of your mirror and
try holding the rest of your brim in different ways. Tt may be turned up in back
or cut away entirely in the rear. Turn one
side up and the other down. Try twisting
‘.
3
Ss
¢
ae
the inside oval
smaller than your crown, trim it out to fit
after the brim has dried on the board.
If you are making a casual hat you will
have to establish the eye-line on your
crown. (See Eye-line, Chapter TL)
~ Don't lose sight of your center front in —
oe
: Se
a
times.
ess several
[Bete neste
3
ey
Wrinkles at center can be worked out
but you will have to steam, stretch, and
pin — and then perhaps repeat the proc-
ee
:
Ri
ae
LE
GE
crown is blocked, cut eyeline. (b) Brim goes OVER the Crown. Pin
(c) Try hat on to check and then sew brim in place. (Over-cast stitch.)
em
in place.
-
or rolling one end and pin close to the
directions, Chapter
crown. Add a pleat or a tuck to one side
or the other. Put in a few pins to hold your
“idea” in place.
and crowns.) In either case, whether you
are working with felt or material, the brim
is sewed to the crown in a different way
Get a hand mirror and look at your hat
from all angles. It is possible to have a
good line in the front and at the same
time have a bad side silhouette; or vice
versa. If you can’t seem to get rid of abad
line — but all the rest of it suits you~ perhaps you can cover the bad line with a
trim. After you find the placement that
you like, pin carefully and then try on
again to double-check.
than when you make a “forward” hat.
You will not need an eye-line in your
crown.
On
the
contrary,
your
crown
should be symmetrical ~ cut just alike
on both sides ~ and should be blocked on
the back of the block. The crown should
sit back of your hairline, letting your hair
frame your face. Completed crown measurements for 22-inch headsize should be
approximately
You are now ready to sew. (Trim away
any rough or ragged spots in your felt
brim at the inner edge.) Use a small, tight
overcast stitch, hiding it in the edge of the
felt. Stitch firmly, because when you wear
the hat, you will probably pull it on by
the brim.
If your stitches are small and uniform
and if they hardly show, they will form a
XI, for making brims
11
inches
from
front
to
back and 12 inches from side to side.
After you have blocked a felt crown
this size and blocked and cut the brim
according to the pattern, you are ready to
sew the brim to the crown. In the case of
material, you would first block and make
the 6-section crown out of buckram; then
cover it with a blocked 6-section crown
made out of material. Your brim would be
hand-made detail and need not be covered.
cut out of buckram (using pattern), wired,
But if you feel that your first effort should
be shielded from public view, use circled
grosgrain ribbon, wide or narrow in width,
a piece of narrow felt cut from edge of
brim, or a piece of material tubing.
If the crown is too deep, after you have
and covered with material. It should then
be stitched in many rows to make the material conform to the brim. When each
piece is completed, you are ready to attach the brim to the crown.
‘
a
eto
found
brim
placement
(and
after
brim
is
sewed in place) trim away excess felt.
The final inside crown edge should be
about '/4 inch below the sewing line which
connects brim
5
a
3
: gare
ee
=
ee
| “\his “sy
: ve
to crown.
¥
%
geo
ahs
\J
\ eae
None
SPECIAL
TREATMENT
OFF-THE-FACE
Brims
;
can
be
made
FOR
eS
BRIM
larger
hee
socg
py
fels Sree :
or smaller
iss
than the diagram calls for. If you wish a
large brim, enlarge your pattern along the
RAS
a
the
crown)
felt brim
or it can
: os &
(after it is cut from
be
used
with
ram and then covered with material.
buck-
(See
ee
= Bae
we
=
dotted line as suggested. This pattern can
be laid on a
i
ee
How
to
(left)
cut
felt
crown
front view
for
(right)
off-the-face
hat
side view.
37
ay
RS
i
CE
e
|
,
4
x
See
Z
-
.
A
\
Is
a=
EW
Sea
Spel
rae
gS
}
side are reached.
i
Working from back of
hat, turn brim and pin
sal
<
jest
4 ihe:
ye
Ao
ae |
A
eonA
6
—
Ves
A
Be
V0)
eon
ws
==
roe
.
e
3
;
\
“4
; Re
i
eo
sti
|
"I
sh
rey
ay
a
J
4
a
.
res
iS
Make
¥2-inch slashes on each
side, 5 inches from the center front.
This brim goes over your
the “forward” brim did)
pinning on the top side of
pin on the underside of the
crown (just as
but instead of
the brim, you
brim, and the
brim is set about 1 inch above the edge
10 inches across the front
(until you reach the slash on either side).
The
brim
was
pinned
1 inch
above
the
crown edge at the center front; but as you
work
toward
closer
to
=
slash it should be about
the
the
edge
slash,
the
of
crown;
the
2
brim
gets
at
the
inch above
£
the edge of the brim.
ae
: through
Bring
trim
side slashes,
tie
Now turn the hat around: and work
i
on the back of the hat. Bring the brim
bow center back.
ends around
yerse
toward the center back. Re-
the inner edge of the brim at the
slash and all the way across the back of
the hat. This
38
‘
a notch at the center front of the
baa
Tack trim in place.
eegns
Ei
Off-the-face brim with applique trim.
Pin the brim
Bie.
‘ bs
LF
sae
&
of the crown. (Of course you match center
front of brim to center front of crown.)
eee
na‘
> Saale
a
ee
‘
g
= brim and make
Y
=p (' hn \ as i
Alter
sewing ©
—
)
brim
to crown,
y \
~
Sh Panera
& <=>
4,
Ae
es
«
ee
—
age
fee
La
/
Pa
3
ies
“a
_ _ to crown.
4
ae
em
Roe
reee
one
each
se
‘ Bee
Pin brim across front
of hat until slashes at
Z
~~
ces
Siege oe
Be
é
+3)
Spi)
Tiger ities at
>
as
ee
pveperc
2
aa
reer
ee
oe
eo”
AEG od
a
=
ati
xs
Pesetemah et
Vgeasa
ea
2a
Se!
ies
ae
a
fa >\ FQ,
7
oN:
epee
2
i
means
that you will be pin-
:
n
ning the inner edge of the brim to the
edge of the crown — from the top side
of the brim.
This is a trick hard to describe (and it
takes much longer to tell about it than to
do it) ; but if you succeed, your brim will
stand up very nicely in the proper off-theface manner.
After the brim is pinned, it should be
sewed in place, front and back. Use a
back-stitch, so that it will hold securely.
Leave a -inch space unsewed on each
side at the slash. Your trim will run
through the slash at this point.
To cover the joining of crown and brim
you may use a narrow strip of felt, grosgrain ribbon, ora piece of material tubing.
The length of this piece of trim should be
long enough to go around the head, plus
an allowance (if you are going to tie and
cross the ends — or if you make a looped
Match the middle of the trim to the
center front of the brim and pin it across
the raw edge of the brim. At the slashes
on each side, draw the ribbon through to
the other side of the brim. Twist the trim
as you bring it through the opening so
that it covers the raw edge of the brim.
Maké a join at the center back; tie the
ends or make a bow.
The trim should then be tacked in
place and the pins removed.
Note: If you start the ribbon at the
center back, you can finish with the bow
at the center front.
This hat with its headsize crown and
large brim needs very little in the way of
trim — the band and bow are sufficient.
However, if you want to be a little spectacular and make the hat part of a costume, you can add an appliqué trim.
Make cutouts of colored felt and sew
bow at the joining). Width of trim should
these across the front of the brim as sug-
be
gested in the illustration on page 38.
¥%
to %
inch.
(a) To enlarge pattern, draw a rectangle 7” x 13”.
Rule off rectangle in one-inch squares. Draw outline,
following the lines of this pattern, which are set in
one-half
inch
squares.
(b)
another large piece of paper,
Lay
completed
folded. Lay
pattern
|
|
|
ia
on
line marked
“fold” on the fold of this second piece of paper.
!
J
(c)
,
aa
Zee | |
, <a
lUlt~“C«éi«CS
eee
|
eae | |
|
es |
This gives you a complete brim pattern. Mark around
pattern on buckram and cut. Wire “dotted edge” of
4
/
'
e
ee
a
eee
*,
‘
*
j=
oo.
=
ONE-HALF
_—o-
OFF-THE-FACE
—_
Brim
-_
=
Pattern
oes
(to
be
enlarged)
39
SN
|
C2
Yin
a7
)
i =
ea
>
-—
CP
eae
~~
\pee
ie
“eg
Bane (NSA
\.
ee
YM
SN
a Wy
PEAS)
(6 D
| Se
:
oe.
hoA
J
KA
“Sea
) get
Se)
GAY
yaks
Se
ay
(
hy
ae
AS)
© Jey
y >
Chapter Suv
HALF-HATS
A
foundation
out of buckram
block.
Take
“half-hat”
may
be made
and blocked on your hat
a pias strip of buckram~ 5%
inches x 12 inches.
Wet
strip and shape it
onto the block, running
side-to-side.
dry thoroughly,
take it
off the block. Try it on and trim out to get
the size you desire. Round off the corners
of the ends of the buckram.
Wire
the edges
of buckram
strip, all
TO
all around.
Ys inches allowance
(Cut on the Bias.)
Pin and block the material to block
(steam-press) , having material run across
block, in same direction as you blocked
buckram.
Cover foundation with material, follow-
40
MAKE
AN
“EAR-MUFF”
HAT
a half-hat and add earmuffs to
velveteen. Cut out two circles (62 inches
diameter)
out
of same
material.
Run
a
gathering thread around edge. Insert a
3¥2-inch powder puff in each circle and
draw thread tightly. Secure. Attach these
to side of hat.
TO
maternal:
Cut a piece of material the same size as
with
the ends. Cover foundation with velvet or
around, starting wire at center back. Finish wire by covering with a bias strip of
the rectangle, adding
given. Trim
a bow, flowers, sequins, felt trims, etc.
Make
the buckram
Let foundation
ing directions previously
MAKE
BONNET
A
OR
DUTCH
HALF
CURVETTE
Take bias strip 51/2 inches x 16 inches.
Wet
buckram
and shape to block.
After it is dry, take it off the block and
cut the ends into points. Wire the whole
thing, including points.
Bend the wire at the ends of the cap, up
and out. Cover with blocked material.
(To make cloth fit ends of hat you will
auniecuatis a
;2",
‘le
a
Bae
i.
Bie
BUCKRAM
onal
ai
i
7
Seay
ae
<——BIAS ——>
eeNe
7.
A Mold it over block (a)
“2,
we
ne
YY
side view
pe ee
ce.
BLOCK
ap Ae
a UE
UP 7
ei : ae ws
“(g
Ree
4
no
Z
Cee
age
te
g}
f
ey
.¥
wes
5
°i
ES
.
eas
tt
ce
Sie?
3
t
\
yy
‘be.
Y
‘3
a
ae
Tae
=
vest
;
ends
piece
points
when
dry.
a
fe
33
2
Block
longer
buckram. Cut
“oe
*
ccs Bae si
Gres
7 Re
nag
ON
go
¢
(eae
1
uae ert
ere:
the
;
“TR
Sane
fat et
Pana
8
aa
ilies)
aN
Fe
244
“Alaa
We
~==bee a,
Gee oS
i
ares
YS
5 re
a
a7
|
>
Cm
Side
al
Rei
pala
mori
¥
ie
ij
fs
Pe;
2
Ais:
re
measures 51/2 x 12”.
3
at
a
which@#<:>
ee =
uckram
BIAS buck
of f BIA
piece
=»
tea
\Kaael
G..
Ain
Sw
a
ats,
Be Bute a)
Boge
Wet
.
Cg
SMa
BeBrathan?
‘oye
:
Se
+
Sy a
Rag,
ea
of
at
ate
ris
Wire
#
edge and turn points out.
(b)
When
front view.
dry, remove
Cover and trim.
from block.
terial
round corners.
and
trim ends
need to do some blind-stitching. Also the
ends will need a facing of the same material.)
Trim this foundation with large flowers
at each side; run a strip of fur across the
:
a
Cut
two circle of
pre
es
terial,
gather edges
and insert two powd
puffs.
at ey
‘
/
“
-%
Soe
ee
“
ie
They
is
er
ays
AN
m
at
Se
A
NY
Yea
A
NN.
is YER
Ses
Gy
be
meee
3
; a
Se
a Ly
y
"REY
a 7
AA
RB
AS
Ba.
;
iy
DS
:
a
fat
atin
|
BS
ho
1 9
Ves
BNR”:
5 Oe Ny Z
Kr
te
fy
ie”,
covered
ese
powder
puffs
to covered
Rae
Ng)
-\o
—
=
¢
4
e
i
half-hat
YR.
:
#3
:
tiRe
.
.
if
fs
re
%
SZ
=
Gh
Bye
eG
oS
rN
a
wr
Attach
i)
74
A
aN ag
ae!
SAAN
eg
pdr:
Wisoas 2a
‘y
Ke
may
trimmed with ap- BI,
28 pliqued flowers.
@e'’7
oy
Ba
a
:
: Beck
B77
of half-hat. Cover with bias mafeathers, etc.
front or work outan all-over sequin design.
Note: Secure these hats to the head
with a pin on either side or at center front
or a plastic band sewn across the center
of the hat. They should be lined, and
finished with ribbon.
Pas y
Fee
a
Breck
edge
flowers,
Gey
Hay
as
:
may,
Wire
with
Carex
Coes
ends.
Al
Es
Coes.
Yee
cs
ea.
g
OY
CAGE
ne
Os
§ “sR
S
a
Rema.
SS
otf
eae
ae
y era
gowere
}O)
fe)
: *
=:
iy
ELA)
Saag:
:
ZA
&
SoU
R
(hapten Seven
TRIMMINGS
Small hats that tilt forward over the eye
The important thing about making a
require a bandeau to make them stay on
bandeau is to remember that it must fit
the head. The bandeau is attached at the
the head. A straight piece of material will
sides of the hat and runs across the back
not do the trick — it must be rounded.
of the head. In hats that are extremely
A bow or knot at the center back of your
small and shallow, the bandeau assumes
head will make the bandeau fit better.
the importance of an integral part of the
If the bow is fairly large, it assumes the
hat and should be handled with care and
importance of a trim. Please note that the
workmanship.
bow or knot will not come in the center of
Kinds of Binder Lhercadicst and siti the bandeau. Because the hat tilts to the
|
right, the left side of your bandeau should
plest way to anchor your hat to your head
i
\
:
x
.
be slightly
longer. If the hat is worn
is by means of a small elastic attached to
E
2
squarely on the head, then the bow or
each side. The elastic then goes over or
f
‘
knot will be center back.
under your hair at the base of your skull.
.
ij
A bandeau may be made out of maTwo layers of grosgrain, about an inch
E
page
va
:
terial, providing it is cut on the bias. Cut
wide, circled and sewed together, make a
:
:
;
E
;
5
‘
a_strip about 4 inches wide and sew it
ribbon bandeau. A piece of wide gros‘
7
wi
together on the wrong side. Turn and
grain (about 21% inches
Wide) doubled
a
7
a
A
2
steam-press it into a half-circle.
and circled, is another simple way to make
a bandeau. A felt strip, blocked in a
Jersey
Bandeau:
Jersey
can be used.
rounded half-circle and lined with grosIn this case, cut a wide bias band, handgrain ribbon, is another suggestion.
hem the edges, and shirr at center back.
42
Braided
Bandeau:
A
more
elaborate
He
bandeau is a braided one. Cut three bias
strips
tubing
and
follow
directions
for
Shirred
jersey
making
ban-
‘ere
deau.
ear
(see below). Braid the three strips,
Leon
fastening them securely at both sides. This
bandeau
adds
is
that
comfortable
hand-made
Length of Bandeau:
length
of the
and
secure
%
and
$55)
look.
A word
bandeau.
Put
about the
your
hat
ce
on
where
h
b
the
band
a
ill b
will
be.
All
aaah
ow an inch
ee
(
Dy
{.
Pa
wd
&
Awl
(@))
te
A
°
SS
|
iy
vi
or
ey
te
ies
£TRNS
your head as you will wear it, and then
measure around the back of your head
h
eg
5
ae
se
7
ani
j \3s
so for sewing into your hat. Add 2 inches
for a knot to be tied in the band. The usual
length for a plain band runs 15 to 18
d
eau
braided
‘a
ma le out
oO
tubing.
f
5
:
inches. Your bandeau should be sewed in
at each side of your hat, about 1 inch back
Take
of your hairline. Hairlines vary with dif-
around the crown, plus an 8-inch allow-
ferent people, so fit and pin your bandeau
ance. Make one tie in the tubing and then
to your requirements. Generally speaking,
the bandeau ends should come about midway of each side of the hat.
sewin place. Finish off the tubing by tying
a tight knot in each end.
If you make enough tubing, it can become a self-trim. Use it as a braid. as a
HOW
TO
MAKE
TUBING
Se
ES
«
oS
ee
eS
ae
: Fd
“Che
Ee
material
eT
z
tubing
Uap
€ Sssf l TS
RAR
to go
To Make Tubing: Cut a bias strip of material about 1% inches wide. Fold the
right side in and machine-stitch it on the
|
ae
long enough
scroll, or as loops and wire the loops.
In material hats, tubing is always a nice
detail trim. Use it in place of ribbon for
finishing a juncture of crown and brim.
“Soe
a piece of tubing
Z
LF
ONE
to finish joining
of brim
and
crown.
nasal
ROR
OEE OSES
MSE
“Tubing Tumer’y
43
day
SCE
disease
ee UN
a i ye
ee i
eco
ata
ees
e
yh
ies
ase
a eatamesonts ee ene
2S ee
Mae
[Sa
as teats
eee
SS RMRNeer
Bie
Se
Be
a
es
ce
ee
B i S =
4
2
ES
ea
Cee
fp
O
x
HS
7
Lee
AB
——S
es eae
BERN ah.
“RRS
=
DS
J neck
ag
CNR
in
ES
—
SASS
wrong side, about ¥% inch from the center
Gee
the
ce St.
ie
ee.
nea
;
Se )
i
f%
t
<7
Fate
as es
terial will stuff the tubing, making it like
*
te
vane Dey
surplus ma-
inside out, the
SEES
ROE
Sale
=<
(SRB
strip is drawn
WESSEX
“glamour ip all kinds of
A
{
fold. Do not trim off surplus. When
pe
SS
ay
——
RE
a
(Cover crown completely
with small flowers.
|
Ty
AES
Y
[CORES
TY
\be
oes
tA
FA's woe
—
CE
Say
ie
ee
ota
a
CIN
Bali setae ae
DS ee
plea
SSC BEE
BINGE
SEIS
OIE
ERS
Ae eta
&
CN
cre
Ey eaOS
SRE CE RIALS
4
SE
:
AMER
Sa
ey
a cord,
Va
A
SE
haa
The width and sewing of your bias strip
will depend on the material you use. For
instance, velveteen or costume velvet
should be sewed at least 2 inch from the
center
fold of the bias strip. The
wired together; if they are small, any num-
material
is heavy and will not turn if your seam is
too
small.
Chiffon
tubing,
on
the
HOW TO SEW ON FLOWERS
You usually buy flowers in a bunch. If
they are large, there will be three or four
other
her can be grouped together. Almost invariably,
the milliner will break
the bunch
hand, can carry more surplus in a smaller
apart. The
seam.
take the flowers as they come and just tack
If you experiment a little with tubing,
you will find the minimum width your
stitched
line can
be
from
the
center
fold
amateur
might be tempted
them on.
The idea is to make your flowers “grow”
on your
hat,
becoming
and the maximum amount of material that
your
can be turned.
Turning your tubing inside out is one of
separately, flattening
sary.
those pesky little jobs that a milliner likes
to pass
over
to an apprentice.
It can
be
done with a large-eyed needle and a stout
string of thread. Sometimes you can make
a small
safety
gadget
at
pin do
a notion
the trick. I
department
bought
a
in New
York which I think is worth its weight in
hat.
To
do
this,
a definite
part
put
them
them
out
if neces-
on
I'm sure you have seen attractive crowns
made
entirely of small flowers. These are
fitted together like a jigsaw puzzle, sewing
and flattening as you cover the crown.
None
of the crown
will show
because
it is
covered with flowers.
About the only time you would use a
flower “as it comes” would be when
price was about 20¢.
flower
44
of
you
gold. It is called a “tubing turner,” and its
.
to
was
an
unusually
beautiful
the
one.
i
AS
o
For instance, a lovely hand-made rose
spray would trim a large-brimmed black
just happened
KN
5
e
* }
ge XUN f
q NS
Bes
ae
Be ees 9:
Bee
4
) ras
Ay
;
r
:
\
(ANG
A
——
Za
ee
ig
eee
: i
ee
peek
Mi (.
ie
2! ag]. Ss a
s
Wp i
~ Noe
Bring the ends of the veiling up
(half-
eae
for sports.
Vibes ast.
|
\
en
—.
“cme 3
type of hat except those that are essen-
‘pe
YY
HOW TO SEW ON A VEIL
tially
rags
es
Zi. i ae ee!
thread. Don’t oversew.
}
taen
“ss oad
IZ
leaves and flowers, using the same color
Veils are feminine, softening and flattering. They can be used on almost any
ag
EES
\
to fall on the hat —
them to fall off, so you use a heavy thread;
you don’t want the stitches to show, so
you hide them in the indentations of the
:
NY
dd
gracefully simple and careless.
Alter you have your flowers arranged,
it is easy to sew them on. You don’t want
ie
\F fa
OA
hat very effectively if it looked as though
it had
-
LY /
rN
ee
ae €
of veiling in “bird-
Lots
cage” effect. Use tie-tack
method
of
sewing
‘it on.
You can use flowers and veiling together
—
in fact, you can combine
veiling with
almost any other kind of trim.
If you are using veiling as the only trim,
use lots of it~ several yards is not too
much. | dislike skimpy veils; but of course,
when some other trim is used, you could
use too much. If it seems like too much,
cut it off, either in length or in width.
Tie-Tack Method: The tie-tack method of
sewing on a veil is followed when you are
using lots of it. Seated before a mirror, you
drape your veiling over your hat, putting
in ea
at critical
ee If you want to
build up or exaggerate a line, trya draped
“J.
2
‘
bow of veiling at this point. Work care-
:
:
fully, by the trial and error method;
,
the final effect should
i
studied.
look
loose and
but
un-
Th
Il hat in the illustration
is just
e small hat in the illustration
is jus
;
an ordinary hat dressed up for an extraor3
dinary occasion. Use
5
5
1%
yards of 18- or
gees
20-inch veiling. Choose a “misty” open;
mesh veil.
+
Start pinning the veil at the center front.
Pin it across the sides, putting a l-inch
pleat every 2 inches, so that the veil will
not fall too closely against the face.
:
way round the hat) and loop them
pinning
or running
through the veiling)
on the hat.
a gathering
(by
thread
across the felt bow
Make a tie-tack working on the right side
of the hat where each pin is placed. Take
a stitch (through veiling and felt) and tie
a couple of knots in the ends of the thread.
Snip off the ends. If you are using the same
color thread, the stitch will be lost in the
mesh of the net.
Ruffle Veil: A aiid
ca
easy way to put
il i
ai
on a veil is to make a ruffle of veiling.
1
:
ap
Take
1%
yards
ea ial
mesh
shou
of 12-inch
veiling
— the
Wee
e open and
quite stiff. Run
Ther
a gathering thread along the center of the
ili
Pl
th
ili
dth
Y@iine:Place the veiling around the crown
face
doullth
ie
eed
ot the
hat and
pull
the gathering threa
|.
:
.
tight so that it hugs the crown.
ends
of
the
thread
and
tack
the
,
:
place, sewing about every 2 inches.
Veils for Pillbox or Bumper
Tie the
Te
veil in
Brim:
Use
112 yards of veiling, 18-inch width, to
dress up a pillbox or bumper-brimmed
hat.
45
oa seas S
Bs ue
:
a
om
ee
ee s
3 a
a
2
le
\\
aes
z
Ss
ic
>
a
aN
‘Sic
tissue is used as a protection against catching the tip of the iron ini the mesh of the
=
veiling.
NE
HOW TO USE MALINE
f
Maline
ges
Cth
9
HK Zz bas i
Vie
x
ered or swathed
\
that
veil for evening
hat
small
at the center.
make
a
time
to
It saves
Reeptnacle of the center front.
cocktail
It was
3
scarflike
S
ee giat
™
nes
shld
be
'
head
Veil
a mee
SL
x
Sb)
re:
¢
sy
Le
oe
%
a
2
{
Sa
OO
Nn
J)
e
Se
Oe
aa
SA]
for pillbox which may be worn
or thrown back.
|
|
ey
;
forward
For a detachable ready veiling, gather ends
of a veil with several small stitches and put
hat pin
46
oS
Se
:
adds
it gets
“Yu, scot eee
hy uy
C
ee
Pressing Veils: Veiling always
glamour until it gets wilted. When
Y
.
Cat
under your chin.
f
ae
Wer
e)
oes
coe
ts,
Y Beg
Ns
BY
or feathered orna-
your
—— \
SE=.
Ce
a small calot on
around
and
eR SS > € ty
NW
NS He BAKKE TS ANS
ment in your hair. Just wrap two yards of
veiling
in the
they were all in-
feminine
ZS
ET
to be sewed.
and tie it in a big bow
to mind — a
student
Es
the back of your head, or perhaps you are
thin
as
fie
-
Chin Veil: A chin veil is a nice addition
to an evening ensemble, and it doesn't
;
Every
Jig
or it may be thrown back across the hat.
a flower, bow,
hat.
The base was a shallow round ae
(see Chapter IX — Foundation, No. 2).
The original hat was a “forward” hat, and
The veil may be worn across the face
wearing
French.
vocative as a black lace fan!
veiling in place.
be wearing
typically
it up because
and colors.
Draw your veil into a ruffled drape that
will hang across front of hat. Tack the
have
in three dif-
maline hat comes
center front of the hat; pin at this point.
You may
saw
tigued by the combination of materials
Runa gathering thread about 2 inches
from the edge, along one side of veil.
Match the center front of the veil to the
even
with maline
as being
class made
Fold the veil crosswise and
:
I once
lovely bunch of velvet violets. I think of
feminity.
chalk mark
be pleated,
draped.
ferent shades of purple. The trim was a
Another
Chin
or
an admirable Easter bonnet entirely cov%
bg
N
be used in the trimming
of hats. It can
tucked, gathered,
Sy doe IS
Wy
can
or making
|
AS
“4 ve
=.
“<>
sy
J
y
than no trim
at all. In many cases, veiling can be re-
OwoesRy 2ok a-
WR
es
ao
per
ARYL
PB,
lifeless, it is worse
SO\\_-vived by pressing. Lay it between sheets
1% 2 ee of tissue and press with a warm iron. The
(We
ae
limp and
= <=.
Sy’
We
NN rt
a \
ged
0 Ws ae
is SN
el Sy
Bees oe za a
.
panel
through it — place pins at becoming
angle at side or back of hat.
:
so required a bandeau to keep it anchored
to the head. The bandeau was made out
of black crepe tubing, braided, and the
foundation was also covered with black
crepe.
The
crown
was
then covered
by rows
and rows of ruffled black maline. Maline
comes
72 inches
wide
and
you wish to use. Possibly young girls
would like to wear the hat on the back
of the head instead of forward. In this
case, block the foundation on the back of
the block, as described in Chapter IX.
2/3
Matching
under
of a yard
velvet
ribbon
the chin would
charming
finishing
streamers
tied
be a quaint
and
touch.
A
small
velvet
(instead of the rose)
could
was purchased. The maline was then cut
ribbon bow
into
then be used to finish the center back of
three
inches).
anda
long
Each
strips
(8
inches
strip was
folded
x
72
in half
the hat.
ay
gathering thread was run, the long
a
way, down the middle of the folded strip.
This thread was pulled so that the maline
formed a thick ruffle and the ruffle was
then sewn
.
to the crown,
outside
edge
and
beyond
edge
of hat.
beginning
letting maline
The
ruffles
for
bridesmaids’
crepe
and
ieee
See
a
Tae
extend
os
we
circled
eS, Be Rs
Nae
aN
hat
oD.
sf
4
small pieces of felt ors ff
2 f
ee
eer
ee
pari
aime
aaa
err
y Bey
ee
Jie
Be
pee
| See eee“
‘
3
“M!
NSE
a
ete <tON,
Fl
Ves
a
Ya
Nees
eto ca
ar
a
mayer
=
MAKE
HATPINS
COVERED
dob
1
y a couple
of
fh
E
hatpins.
Get large-headed pins at your local store,
a
You
shapes
can utilize scraps of felt, and the
A
may be varied. Cut two felt pieces
and
h
sew these
h over
together
h the
head of the pin. Use a running stitch or
a buttonhole stitch.
S
If you do not have the right color of
4
felt, cut out material
(larger than felt)
i
and glue (or sew) to the small felt pieces.
Attach them to the pin and sew, keeping
Ja
ON ZAC
SNe
fe
TO
secure:
fast alike
alike and
just
eee
Li Mtg
x
may be
‘
os S
die
Ve
Wise
A\
\
Spee
=
about 34 inches long and sharp.
hee
Wi.
| eke
oe
ee
\o=F Sxo-
:
.
Hats that sit on the back of the head
b
petit
<a
Se
:
eT eae as
HOW
fee
#
4
BAD)
aE
ae
SSM
DR a
peer aa
ans:
2)
__ ak
fae
Reis.
far
(\ Ee
: A
fe
Gr tam)
i.
fe
a
.
ae YL NESE ee:
with
material.
\
iw
a
tg
ae
aN
SNE
| Sate
SS
\\
Sa
ee
: ee, is es e ESPN ee
Nae PA
Pee
ae
|
/
ea
wa
4
color
6
CGR
pins
the
Soe of
ee
é
fo
3
Combine
in
Se.
=
Cover
hats.
maline
(a
at the
This hat could be made up in various
colors
>
i Se
NE
ee
©, Se SE. (eke pe
the crown, round and round until it was
completely covered. In the very center of
the hat, a lovely shocking pink velvet
rose was nested into the maline.
matching
gies
the raw edges of material folded inside the
two
stitch.
layers
of
felt
and
underneath
your
47
FSW
ipaadtive...
OE
of your hat by sticking the pins into the
hat. You are now neatly hatted for your
YOY.
of R\
Bee
ne
Q))
G
in
Z Wi
C«
)
trip
| Bee
J
, ete
EM
\ —
a
2
# Nis
Bs.
a
(oY
uae
>)
Bene,
into
town
—
hethwhether
you
bio:
are
shop
ping or going to work.
:
An.
Wee Se
y, Pees
(pe fea
ae eyes C7
OV
GE
VE®
vale
> SA
es rs
ey ra
ae Be
unexpected
:
dinner
engagement
comes your way. Your neat little hat won't
do a thing for you in the way of glamour.
e
What to do!! If you can get into
the nearest dime store, you can change your hat
as quickly as you can change your makeup. Slip the felt bows off the hatpins and
top two of the pins with colorful velvet
bows (one goes on each side). In the
Re
center of your hat, pin two of the biggest,
u
fattest,
most
luscious
roses
that
you
can
find. “Dinner-table interest?” You'll have
A
NEAT
Hatpins’
TRICK
WITH
not only
make
it!
HATPINS
small
detail
a
trims, but they can become a trim in themselves. And you can make
like change with this trim!
You
start
out
with
a
a lightning-
calot
ae
ee
eee
Wool-Felt Appliqués: Felt appliqués can
be very effective. Use scraps of wool felt
by the yard for this purpose.
or pillbox
The design
of
the
appliqué
and
the
crown, and you wish to build up the front
color scheme are the two important factors
line of the hat with a trim.
to work
Make two felt bows (see How to Make
a Bow, page 51) and stick a hatpin ineach
bow. Arrange the bows across the front
designs are very easy to create and always
add a touch of originality to your hat. Use
them on a hat brim or scattered over a
it
“east
aN
we
ge
“Yaa
ey
SET
ee
tS
a
GE
Ses.
AS
Fate
8 ae
mE
Sa
ee
GrGe
ora
Agiricne:
y
a
48
i
ees
Go
# Si
BT
ERY
NGie
io
Rta
/»
Lit.
Sete:
A Cae
&
flower or geometric
et.
iwely
‘i
Simple
ip
\
ab
out.
ss
oO
Se
By
e
Sey
ae
eS
Flower and leaf designs—cut them out of
Be}
colored felt.
a
As:
oe
e
:
a
ae
Yi
3
i oA
Rees
Beat
ran
we
ee
——_
layers of flower leaves and center with a
button or bead. Add two leaves to each
flower.
<4
e
Make
aw
’
ae
them
3
¢
Ore
Flowers may be made
Assembled felt flowers made from flower and
faackine
:
a
brim
frame
nl
make
is a flat ower trim, but you can
bunchy flowers, also. Cut a 3-inch
circle
of
avetce
goes
(about
ea 20)
it in place, and then do your stitching in
rows right over the colored design
:
;
Fur-Felt Appliqués: Fur felt scraps (from
old hats)
can
be
fringed,
scalloped,
pleated, tucked, etc., and can easily be
it. Bunch
line”
Trace the
AN
“
#
N
Cut
ae
&
§ ce
$
Re i
Use
.
same
ype
\
\\
and
AHrT
Tit
R
,
ae
\
igi Se
\
\GANG
\\e
WMH
of felt and fringe the
Vb
\
2
S
f
[A
SoS
~
nee 2 if ete
at
i.
oe
Ce
os
by H
ED
i a
Sea
Sele
t i
GP iS
Ae of
|) hoe Meee
MY,
ey
Binet.
or
fg
Vie
BE?
tesa
aes
his ces =
Y
aN BIE J
|) 1]
Riga
ng
:
EEN
a
er ae tae \ ‘
edge. Gather the centers closely together.
H
j
=TEEN \
\\
Fa
POS
s
circle
re
trim,
a“$y
sized
=e
10 or 15 of these together for a
A
')
Se
ee nue
orate trim that was used originally ona
“French-room” hat. It was made up in
brown fur felt and brown satin, and the
flower
of circle.
9NSE
f
é
circle
“cupped”
by gathering the edge
\
FYI
\
felt
make
OEE
and
you have a good builtloutakin
French-Room Trim: Here is a more elab-
patterns, lay them on felt, and cut out./
If you have pinking shears, pink the edges
of the felt cutouts. Assemble the three
y~.
thread
around the rim of
P Us
ve
Cupee sR:
a
ree
the same-sized
circle, cut or
fringe
felt all around the edge. (Make
the cut 1 inch deep and about ¥% inch
apart.)
Run a gathering thread inside
fringed line. Draw the thread and secure
Flower and Leaf Designs: Here are some
ENS
a gathering
stitch)
“
made into leaves and flowers.
simple flower and leaf designs:
Run
the i circle. Draw the thread until you have
a’ 4
U
Rein
an appli-
qué before you make the stitching across
:
’
:
the brim. Arrange your design, pin or glue
A
felt.
(small running
.
(pattern Pg. 30), add
smaller or larger
by_changing the size of the pattern.
This
leaf design.
Grown. They can be sewed ly hand at by
ied Lavesmnde
or
bumper-brimmed calot.
“SRR
Anan
eight of these flowers and sew
over the front part of a pillbox
=
eee
———
——_|
ye
——————=S
SSS
teahe
=
=
Poa
ea)
> Ses a
|
zl
mt!
—~:3
=
9
-
aay
aaa
ey
eee
e
ee!
a
/
Fy!
GRABLE
2
Se
=
suas
\ Ve
\
|
F\\
MeN
7
x
See
is
ae ee
BAS
=Z
a
Aafe
Se
a
ca
=
14
\ tae
ENS
a
a
FR
oe
=}
Ne
Seal
Spa aes
1;
ace
iRehr
Vee.
Fie
e:
a
Se
IAF
/
N
1]
oP
. Sony
(hee
ae
/
ne
Eh
oe
a)
Bind
ee
circle of felt with
satin
effect was not unlike a mass of ringlets
perched on top the head. The dull brown
felt and the shiny brown satin seemed to
reflect the highlights in the brown hair of
the woman who wore the hat.
.
doubled
binding.
French
room
hat,
handmade trim.
Felt Feathers: These can be made by cutting two layers of felt in the size feather
that you want. (Cut a paper pattern first
and then cut out your felt.)
Lay a piece of wire down the center of
Cut 25 circles out of felt. The diameter _ the first layer of felt. Tack it in place. Lay
of the circle should be 314 inches. Bind
second layer of felt over it and machinethe edge of each circle (use the sewing _ stitch it down one side of the wire, and
machine) with a satin bias binding, cut
then turn and stitch along the other side.
double. Turn the bias over the edge of the Fringe the edge of the feather, and then
felt and slip-stitch it to the other side.
give the wire a twist.
Take a pleat in each round circle, as
Use two or more of these feathers in a
shown in the illustration. Tack the pleat
group arrangement. Five or six small ones,
in place.
twisted together, make an effective trim
The foundation of this hat was very
for any small hat.
narrow and had a very pointed eye-line.
For variation, use two contrasting or
The felt trim was bunched closely toharmonizing colors of felt. You can make
gether over the front of the hat.
(Pin
the top layer out of suede leather or silver
“flowers” in place and then sew.)
kid.
Gather
int
a
mar
t
RR
circle
:
ae
Bunch
((
im, ipa
aes
Been: /
eyes)
ae
|ae |
\
GAS
Ae e
:
Sal
amec
:
Sie
if
Page
f
ff 2/
wE4
|
iC
Mee
fs
SSSS
i
ee
D5:
<a
BRO OS
Bis
ee,
ee
ae
Bacon ossm
tracey
Iie
————
25 circles a front of narrow foundation.
mee
ey
sea
pee
Ae
ae
an
|
STS ane
Pee
\
eae
y
/
cee ON
aeCF.
/
Ke
EES
:
See
Eee
Ya.ec:
a
a
eee tsi2;
be
rE)
ee
oS) | Beer
ys
ane
eam
a
aie es ay cee
OR reas
eS
“a
ok
Ne \
5
ST
“es
é
Seo
.
FEATHER
a
Tiny
round
ee
circles
and
ee
“stem”.
pe:
pieces
of
(c)
felt
with
Fringe
S\\
B
e\
2
layer
of felt ‘and
Ce\\
~
(a). sew wire center (b) cover
together along
ease
lll duuuuoseeaccel
SS
oe
Sly
Xs
X
Slag ES a:
Nw
:
<<
cS
FELT
«
eevee
Se <<
Mi.
a
—
aaa
“te,“Sinco
"
“aa: ly
second
edges
(d)
2
fi
PPE
!
an
itittes
Ben
layers
twist wire.
Gather the bow on the dotted lines, as
can trim veiling and correlate color and
shown in the illustration. Bring the side
material. The pieces may be uniform or
gatherings to the center and fold back the
graduated in size. At any rate, cut two of _ ends. Sew the bow at the center and cover
each size. Hold one under the mesh of
it with a small loop or piece of material.
the veiling and spread a little glue on it.
This general procedure is a good basis
Place the other one on top of the first.
for all-around bow-making.
Hold in place until the glue dries.
Width and length of material, kind
<i,
;
of material, and the number of loops in the
bow, make the difference between a dressy
aie
ie,ae
|
‘
and a tailored bow.
|
*
WY) 7
Gz
J
2
erst ite,
5
Material
3
eu
BS
as.
ae
Ne.
\.
@
Wd
ae
’
By
HOW
Bowe
velvet,
TO
canbe
material,
your bow
to be 5
MAKE
made
bows
UI
A BOW
etc. If you
inches across, your strip
of material (or whatever you are using)
should be about 161 inches long. In other
words, you allow three times the size of
the bow, plus a little more.
: h
—
“|
ae:
Here is an example of a double lod;
Os
bow (to trim the front of a hat) made out \\ \
of material.
C
Cut and piece 44 inches of bias strips, 7 ES
and sew the side seam. Turn the &
right side out and press. Divide the
strip
want
-
take_~
inches wide. Fold together, right sides i
out of felbibbor.
leather,
Material
more time to make than ribbon bows, but —
sometimes they are much more effective.
.
i
ae
—
They give a professional finish to your ha
i
“iS
Ct
Bows:
j
is
with gathers,
Bring
two
measured
loops
of the center and
out as follows: g
together
fold back
on
each
side
the ends.‘
Sew the loops in place and finis
A
center with a small piece of material.
ul
the ends on a slant and turn in the FAM
edge. Slip-stitch.
ne
(eat (
WA
iN
KS)
NS
i
ASS
b <i By
Peeks
Re
:
en)
foe
en
2
CF
Sa
:
e"
ed
7
e"
T
a
3"
ge
ore
sy
Abie sie
an
’
Seay
e"
T
6
ie
(2
[RSS
LOSS
aw)
(above) Single
loop
bow.
(below)
Taffeta (plaid or plain)
is an ideal material to use for a bow like this, but softer
materials may also be used.
If your material doesn’t have enough
body (seems limp and lifeless) and you
want it to be stiff and perky, you can slip
a layer of crinoline inside the doubled ma-
eel
ae
Press
and
then
bow.
foundation must be small because this hat
is all bow. The material required is 2
yards of 4-inch ribbon.
Divide and gather your ribbon in the
following manner:
Bring the gathering strings tight and
sew the loops together at a common center.
to
Back
Bows:
Bows
may be used
on the
back of a hat, as well as on the front. Trim
a felt calot in the following manner:
Make two 4-inch felt bows, using a
beautiful
strip of felt 2%
topping
\
BY
*
for a small hat. Your
sae eS
Foundation
p ey
Boas *.
y
yee
~2
Y
aoa
eee
\S
eee
)\
NS
Ue
Z
Si
=|
a
oe
“haan
ae
“a \
Bee
Pe
SG
—
“
=
many
2
Sef ceed
fae
eae
with
loops
inches for each.
becomes
with felt bows.
at center back
G
ps
je
ie
covered
x 13%
a Beau-Catcher. (left) Calot
(right) Calot with big bow
(center).
ix
Se
OL
%
i
2
(
\
ed Be
ee:
&
di
\
ee
e.°
ear
AY
Pee
ites.
KY
y
%
a~as
ewes
LS
ate
e/a
oe wal
: =
2
Ifa
y
|
| seas
_—
y,
|
LE So
ait
DF PA
eC?
A,
52
loop
Mee
ee
Ribbon Bows: A many-looped bow of velvet or heavy satin ribbon can make a
%
oo
proceed
Double
eran
%
cated
SB
LL
\ LS
4,
Le,
fe
Vee"
=<
5
:
/ Gr
>
UA Wn
7
My
x
Dstax
os
(( ‘> fay
BCE.
BS t
—
+)
oe
hie
ae
z
we
ff
[Rege
a
a)
-
ow
trimmed
\
\
Amey
Ns
XY
KSC
ewe tamed
J,
AB
(
Lj
anced
De:
YA4)
t
VA
ce:
fF
AN
snoods.
;
Se
Sequin
al
\\NAF
eepr
.
\
IY
(A >
YO Ne
Ki
=AGARY)
We
Sv
FB
YA
& BWMAR
air
Loe
c
LN
»
fe
AT
fa
IX
a
‘tie
\Ny
|
is
Ni
SS
ay
)
Si
nf
cap with velvet bow.
YY
i}
4
mY
N
;
we
Y
Sew these bows at the side back as indivelvet ribbon and let the ends hang down
cated in the illustration.
over the shoulders.
A
sun-ray
design
on the
calot
is
Trim a mesh snood with small ties of
worked out with contrasting buttonhole- _ thick yarn or tiny pieces of felt “4 inch x
twist thread. Mark your design and work
3
inches. Tie the yarn or felt into the
it out with a small running stitch.
snood, spacing it evenly and tying once.
A bow may be used on the back of a
Puta large bow made out of ribbon or felt
sequin-and-colored-felt-trimmed
foundaat center front. Mix or match your colors.
tion. Make the bow out of wide black Tiny bows may also be tied into veiling.
|
FE
}
at
NEC
:
ba ae «
To brighten a dark dress or suit,
make a calot (see Foundation),
box,
or
gleaming
any
small
satin.
Add
hat
pill
in a bright
a bow
of
the
same material at the neck or hip line
of your dress, ora dickey for your suit.
eee
a
ee ee ar ;
a
G
~~
y ee.
ws
SB.
a
Pe
Rie
Oh
eee
$
Roe
i A
\
&
..
jaws
53
y=
(=
Ts c)
Cae
a
Built-Up Foundation: The line of one of
> -
\
the small foundations will be greatly improved if it is built vee
the front.
Here is an easy way to do it:
A
i
"
PASC
I
Kea
-
i
R
)
cic
B
yards
of 18-inch
along this fold. Pull
FRENCH
ROOM
EFFECTS
INEXPENSIVE
IN,
Zn 5
Sl?
fSMlany
\\ yi
tying
Ley
o
f
,
the chain
merchandise
millionery
LAA kinds,
Snood
usually
ornaments,
found
You
only
will
threads
and
a
find
of
ee?
Ne
small
very
: E
|
3
o
the
J
should
black
dress
dangling
flower
clusters
will
make
Fold the 40-inch x 18-inch piece of velyet in the center
one
veut
(selvages
together)
and
center-front mark in the middle of
edge
(use
tailors
chalk).
Naa
make two more markings along the same
edge, each 3 inches from the center front.
Measure 6 inches from the opposite sel-
vage corners and cut away a rounded section of the velvet. When your velvet is un-
ee wise and hatcon- 514-4.
it should look like ills, Page 38
Rentnihelsachihen along the rounded
foundation
pleasure.
oy
co
of
of red flowers pinned onto
won't
You
are
give
not
you
edge
of
only
piece
of
likely toy mect “its a
every. other
street COREE, but basically, there is not
enough to it. The only ones who can get
away with so little hat are young, fresh-
i feed
+
black
much
long
all make a
even
sdnyagination. “Avoid the obvious”
vA \ CUB se wet hi
;
a
ee
\ scious, a bunch
half-yard
one of the charming snood hats.
\ fvppaterials if ee re clever and ae little
i
A
stores are now car-
VI § Gp ple basic foundation Cae You can
WW A
So French-room creation out of these
/\
Hat:
velyet, a pompadour foundation, and two
supply houses.
buttons,
WITH
there. Sew.
MATERIALS
A} ribbons, flowers, veiling,
N
12
and sew one on either side of the ruffle.
Nest the roses into the veiling so that they
look as if they belong
XG
the string or
inches long. Tack the veiling across the
top of the foundation. Get two large roses
eas
v
AG
or 20-inch
Fold it the long way twice. This
ie a
oe. strip, three hy ie
Fold
again and
run a gathering
thread until your veiling ruffle is about
C%
Fa?
ao
3 gE
1%
veiling.
ae
thick.
thread
Se,
Ww)
ee
/
Take
(
\
7 eh
Yk
al
ee
ae
2 pet beeeilesely
Sareea
alilsetaestlapeae Bob
Ratimnatenals and the
velvet.
round
Insert
elastic
in
about
this
20
hem
a
inches
long. Fasten the ends securely at the ends
chine hers (Your velvet will be gathered
onto your elastio )
Reava
gathering threndlncrosa each.
side of the top of your velvet, starting each
at the cross mark as indicated. Pull
the material on each thread tightly together
one
vaya to useliiese
suggestions
the
made
ideas of your own.
Not all’ stores carry exactly the same mer-
and secure at the hemmed elastic ends.
Fit the velvet over the foundation, matching the center fronts. Smooth and turn the
chandise,
so this will be your
Taw edge of the velvet into the front of the
improvise
and
should
find.
54
give you
some
to
chance
use cleverly what
to
you
foundation.
cure
the
Sew
gathered
with hidden
ends
stitches. Se-
of velvet
on each
Meg
oe
GATHERING
v
age
bale
Se
eee
ey
|
&
Sup
ON Dorrep LIne
ES
(a)
Cut
velvet
velvet
and
as indicated.
fit onto
(b)
Hem
epee
rounded
foundation, matching
edge
ane
0
and
insert elastic.
(d)
ace.
Trim
with
(c)
Gather top sides of
flower clusters,
each
side
J
1
side. The
velvet will fall into a snood, and
:
mf
nl
a
the long flower clusters should be placed
so that they cover each side of the hat,
SUPE)
SiS
an
TIKI
SIO
framing the face. Of course, to be properly
R)
Be
.
this hat should
aver ahecdeieaabhons
finished,
;
be
lined
By
and
Oe
(
4
ay,
S
{>
yy,
ed
/
Wa
\
\
\4
the
Zs2
we
LPS y
Shi
Vanes te
|
e
|
‘
1
&
ELK DCs
CA)
of flowers
by
sewing
various
sizes
of small flowers to a piece of felt 1 inch x
rE
DHEA
S
AO
yee)
ry
:
Note: You can make your own dangling
bunch
Flower trimmed snood.
ACH
Ne
.
a:
RB
{)
wae
a
|
Ne
ae
Sew them close together so that
felt is covered. Make two bunches—
one for each side of the hat.
Calots:
young
The
small
girls, but
do
calots
are
make
them
nice
for
different
e)
My
|
by
giving
them
some
ornamentation!
Break up several strands of small beads
and sew them, hit or miss, all over the top.
Use small pieces of bright-colored felt
combined with colored yarns. Add a few
J /
sequins for glitter. Or use a sequin spray.
55
wig
Se
a
Setarenes:*
yar
$f
iF
t gkisl¢
a)
gery
|
be ea
=
j
i
F<.
:
iets
\o.
tH),
ey
ee
ae
|
ase
if
f |
)
}
i
i
I] } f
ec
\
fa:
yoB
wot,
.
\
Se)
ly
j
i]
small
flowers.
y)
etc.
‘
ae,
&
Ny f\
}
inka
ae
+t,
A
) eee St
ao
(
ea
(
:
3
4)
pices q
J Bi
oN
i)
ee es:
ee ens
Cry
~_N
A
We
ee
| Fee
ea
4
ae
—w
: Se
=a
A
eee
PRE:
roe
"|
4
4
[x
SE
~
=
y f 2.
g
Sequins -add
;
glitter and
glamour.
oe
\a
a
P-
would be another eye-catching
a calot with
trick. Trim
3 tall feathers, attached
to
the rear side.
Fur
Hats:
Do
you have a bit of leftover
fur? Cover the whole ready-made foundation with it, stretching the fur as much as
you can without breaking the foundation.
eee
q gee fae
aaa
Ae
Bee
pets os
—
i
teeters eA.
W
fe
Beta
a
:
A
NTR
Rae
ep
=
Bee
{
\
a
\
:
ba
Wi
>
oe
Sees
3
Be
ae
ee
aS
S\'
Ex
le
HK
}i
&i.
ers
Pe
3
on
fp
A
he
ae
|] SS
SSS
beads,
Cc
ee
©
Tee
Cae 4
i
Galots may y be be trimmed
trimme
i
=
iia
Bags
ee
Sw
CSS
XX
buttons,
OAR
Ae?
eee te
Lees
-
embroidery,
Yes
ee
Se eae eaeoe
(Sex
¢
with
a
Sh SRSA
4,
Ha
"—
Ss
nat
'
Dy
Fira
S
P WA)
|
(Oa
a
=
(|
eee,
Ya
“Siee
t
SHEETS
ea
a
Nec
es P
ou can
do quite a
lot with fur by putting
it firmly under control with hidden stitches. The furrier, of
ferently;
ee
well on a small crown.
Modern pocahontas,
but
course,
aaa
this method
would
do
works
it dif-
pretty
Ideas for Trims: Long swirls of velvet tub-
\
ing in different
\
a nice trim.
colors
can be worked
into
Try quilting or shirring a piece of vel-
A bunch of small flowers, broken apart
and
appliquéd
with
would be charming.
embroidery
Small novelty buttons can be sewed all
A very long tassel
over your hat. Work out a design before
made out of yarn or thin strips of leather
56
vet and sew that over your foundation.
thread,
you start to sew.
ee
4
Seta
yaleeaeatens
aS
Peace.
f
(
ZS
ee We
“os[aa
ea
ze
/f
GTI
f
A\
Ko
~
i)
|
Ne
ro
S
Two
Nee:
Nae
*
corr
EG
ao
‘aaa,
WY4Ate,,
Ho
&
!
Reser
7Z J
Gx
//
Se
ae
i
apie
“(ee
por
fo
Je
[Fe
(-
es Ci fe
geo
\
\\ 3
>
(
Fag
SEN
oe
finYe
\—
I\
AEE
WY
SS
CO OV ys
ae
2S
Ta)
Nea To |
a
ppeereneey.
* Yi oy
ee
ee
‘lager
ee
ls th
KE
we
:
felt bows make a hat.
a
L? -
An old straw brim can make a
ruffle across the front of a crown.
Ribbons, scraps of velvet or taffeta, offer
Straw-Hat Trims: During spring or sum-
endless possibilities in the way of bows
and loops.
An old fur-felt hat, cut into strips, will
make a lot of what it takes to be feminine!
Cut your hat into two or more sections:
steam-press
them thoroughly
and then
p-u-l-l, to make long strips. (Steam-press-
mer seasons you may be able to purchase
small straw
foundations,
and
perhaps
straw by the yard. The foregoing ideas
on trims may be used, but change your
materials and colors. For instance, instead
of using velvet, use taffeta (plain, checked,
fe
sagen cs smelatatoaiies
ing will clean the felt, too.) Cut your felt “33%.
and
make
Follow
:
eo
large, medium,
directions
on
or
:
tiny
bows.
bow-making.
ae
huge bow made of two old fur-felt hats.
co)
Sew it across the front. Arrange it perkily.
See
three or four medium-sized
bows
A KY DWNRei ake ere
seems
\igsecs: ie
CWS MP
‘RBA
YAK NO
: Coes)
Trim a calot or a foundation with a
Make
BIG
"aie
=
psa
be
Be
ay /)
a &
eae
in contrasting color and use them to build == 7
up the line across the front of a foundation.
Here
crown
is a remake
of
last
years
idea:
Trim
swagger
hat
the largest
of
the crown. Use this treatment front or
back, placement
depending upon the orig
:inal line of the hat. Make the bows, pin
them on, and try the various effects before
k, pl
you
sew.
dependi
he
ae
(ae
g
ag
is
\"
ane ee
\,
ae
ae,
with
at the base
‘ e
—
Peo. <i
i Meas — See)
the tall
small flat felt bows, using five in graduated sizes..Put the smallest at the top
of the crown,
-
aN
Oe
Way
Ree
WS
we
©
1
i
.
j
}
Ee-
»
NV)
i
ae
ES
LIMB
"
ete
thea
orig}yyAT, '
WF PR
eR
oilS17
Zoe
“ ved
.
f
" ae:
|
vs
4
Z
A small hat trimmed with plaid
taffeta and worn with matching
vestee
and
and
cuffs.
Youthful
spring-like!
Yi
;
ka-dott
or plaid), , gingham, , piqpiquué,é pol
haps you can utilize a
:
:
crepe, etc. Per
scraps left over from your dressmaki ing,'
E
:
r dr
making your hats match you
esses. In
straw foundations,
:using g thoa
different,
be
to
Just
ati
bin
t
many possible com
ina
omb
find
ou will
ne
Pf
eee
i
oT
ORY
ee
CS
7
we
Ag
7
\\)
args Heth
KI
NHR
be
eee
Sesame
tee
tit out’ idive: Make thie midst of boll
Pe
ts
i
but the
ae the ready-made foundation sont
ocked, will save time and labor. Ce
are especially impor
se veniam
adde merchan- ‘
i-m
sem
the
-ma
if you use
emi
ant:
If you feel that a small foundation
not
even when it is built up with trim) is
ng
Usi
you can add a brim
a
oe
one of the small brim patterns, cut i
i
ee
ne
th
you can make: th
your own n isis that
e
ee
h.)
wis
you
w
as
llo
deep or as sha
ie
oo) areiadla
and
making
: u etheto
Se
ea
hav
cop
iee will
Bse ‘ lock
, e but
u se : aol. aer
use
in of eating
makga
you
if (Th
svanbi
e are
foundations.
been directed toward gi
girls and
‘
and look well in small
who like
ave
for
nce
as iL tog e
|
y may also
,
é
= yoursell
.
: Topeta rose
ey
s.
cts!
e velv
hug
awe effe
thre
and
wit; h str
:
: * suggestions made so
:
oundation
Bri
you mak
:i
eas
might
you
e
i ddie:
DI rect
: irections are given
ith
using the bri
it
cover
then
it, and
wire
ee
:
Pom \\ es,
fr
— tseparat
ays smar
gYax NN FELINE oe trims aretee alwai
C
i
eewideth
WV
:
se
s
Si
ict
ay
for
er
eith
o
Me
o
es
one
on
Cry e 5 ee
or height in the front.
ee)a7
2
: (\
a)
im
5
aN
ae
;
Ee
i
:
YN
Sold
(P
NCPR ES
SS
.
=
\ —
a
Oe
ve
e\
WS
¢
iy D»o
4
i
e
3
ay
=
ie
4
6
Feey,
ELA
iY
:
;
j
Den,
WA
AWY
4
;;
ee
o
:
a
t
5
Sa
2
sec
keep the small hats
oo
This
plastic clip.
e
tacked at each end and in the ee
Be
WN
tee
Fee
Rs
ees
a
use
-
aN
SY"
a aS.
ba
58
j
{
ROIS,|
eee
d
S ROS
~~
NEWAE
~®
GY
oe A
es
(oH
SARS, Bho
4
Q vi
be
ss
BS
§
|
Sirs a W-Alee
% e a CS
Le
So
i
4
8 WZ
pB BARE “%
Ae
:
a
=
‘i fz
:
2
oe
or
?
CSO,
Ee
me
Sad
oP
SF
flowers
with
pSTee
eratel a
Re
Eee Lise
i
q
trim
the
Va
3
Me
j
:
®
=
.
“ernst
3
Geass
Sk
eo Re
ee as
‘ae
\
gee
oO
ie
| 7G
a
/(e\
/
/
|
\
|
ws
\\e~
\s
| e
ee
oH
Cee f
ct
8 an
a
/ oe.
eri
Siete
‘
oe
neg
Chapter Eught
HOW
Almost every woman
TO
REMAKE
has a few old hats
AND
RENOVATE
millinery
lessons,
and
this may
be one
of
lying around that she wishes she knew
them. You can rip the hat apart and copy
how
fa-_
it that way, or you can take a tissue-paper
vorite that she can’t quite make up her
mind to discard; sometimes it’s a mistake,
pattern. You need not allow for seams on
this pattern, but make a note, “no seams
bought in an unguarded moment. In either
case, why not bring them out and look
- them over?
The old favorite may be past redemption by cleaning and patching, and in this
allowed,” so that you won't forget.
Save all ornaments, ribbons, and veiling. Ribbons
can be washed
out and
pressed — to freshen a veil, just take it off
and press it with a warm iron.
oene
to
utilize.
Sometimes
mat ae
relat:
served
you
ee
a ee
well
h
on
a SOS
Oe
and
dont
Deu
Ba!
However, I’m
et
not
it’s an. old
been
a a
nO”
Saye
worth
4
suggesting
every
that
you
k
h
Fur
Felts:
pieces.
If your hat is fur felt, save
Have
a scrap-box
~ t thi
just
this purpose.
labeled
the
FEevt for
Fur felt is a precious material, and even
;
il
when a
hat is worn out there will be parts
throw, it into the furnace yet. Look
at the
lines of the hat and consider its style. Per-
of the felt that can be used for trimmings.
There are many different ways to use it,
haps it would be well to take a pattern
and no other material will stand rework-
from
ing
it, since you
are quite a number
able to copy
liked
it so well.
There
of hats you should
after you have
studied
be
these
quite
thrown
as
away;
well.
if you
It
should
don’t
it, give it to some woman
never
intend
who
be
to use
will.
59
Wool Felts: Old wool-felt bodies are not
worth saving for trims; they are too coarse
and heavy to use. You can freshen upan
old wool felt by reblocking and perhaps
retrimming. Even if the crown was made _
ona fancy block, you can reblock it on
your own round block. The result, of
course, is just a round crown, but perhaps
you can add style interest by using a trim.
(A substitute block tip, as described in
Chapter V, would not be feasible here
because of the pressure that must be used
Cleaning Hats: In fact, cleaning fluid is
the solution for a complete hat that is just
a little soiled. Use a little fluid on a small
piece of turkish toweling or a small wad of
tissue paper which will not leave any lint
—use a quick, light, brushlike motion in
rubbing. Don’t wear a soiled hat even to
the corner grocery store —~ it’s as bad, or
worse, than a stocking run. A run might
develop on the way, but everyone knows
that your soiled, untidy hat was that way
before you started.
i blocking a wool felt.)
Reblocking Felt Hats: To reblock, brush
off all surface dirt and then put the felt
on the block and steam-press, following
instructions for blocking. You will find
that the felt gains new life and luster, and__
that the blocking process is also a cleaning
process. (This applies to all kinds of felts.)
Reblocking the crown usually means
that the brim changes shape, and you may
Remaking: After you have eliminated the
worn-out hats in your wardrobe, it is time
to decide what to do with the rest.
Consider the possibilities of cleaning,
retrimming, mending.
If you still won't
like the hat after all this is done to it, then
the fault must lie in the lines of the hat ~
you have found that they are not becoming to you, or else that it is completely out
of style.
have
to cut off your brim and resew it.
You may want to do this anyway because
Remaking Felt Hats: If your “mistake” is
a felt, and a
you can’t very well “clean” (by blocking)
prepare
your
must
brim
while
it is
attached
to
your
crown.
Frame
and Material Hats: Frame and
material hats, when well worn, are hardly
:
worth
BcVIne: although
4 long draped
band — or a velvet snood — might be reused after it was cleaned and pressed.
fur felt at that, rip it up and
to have
fun remaking
it!
(You
have found at least one good
gestion in this book to follow.)
- we
sug-
ie
fo d e hes
ee oo
ReTrea
ae
te
pm
A:
a
start out remaking a large felt, you will
end up with a not-so-large felt; but even
a small hat can be remade if you have it
in mind
to add a trim ~a
trim that will
Reusing Trims: Flowers and feathers usually show the same wear as the hat, and
also build up the line of the hat. Remember, too, that felt can be pieced. Lay one
not much
section
badly
game
can be done about it if they a
soiled, broken, or discolored. These
tiime however. taken from! a’ hat
that has not been worn much will be well
worth
reusing — especially if they look
like fairly expensive trims. A feather May
need to be reglued or a flower resewed;
cleaning fluid used sparingly will make
them seem
60
fresh and
new
again.
over another and sew
twice
across
with
the sewing
machine;
the second
sewing should be about Y%-inch from the
first.
Remaking
course,
same
Straw
Hats:
Straw hats, of
can be reblocked and many of the
suggestions that apply to felt may
also be used
out-of-date
with
brim
straws.
of straw,
If you
have
an
you might
try
'
reblocking the crown and using the old
brim in a new way. Cut it according to
pattern, bind the raw edge with grosgrain
ribbon. Or use the old brim as a trim —
double it and use it across the front ofa
round crown ~ giving sort of a ruffled offthe-face effect.
If the brim was made of straw braid, it
can
be
newer
plete
ripped
shape.
new
apart
Or
crown
and
you
resewed
into
make
a com-
can
out
of the
old
a
straw
braid. Stiff braid is usually easier to han-
dle when it is slightly wet. Dip it in a pan
of water, and you will find that it becomes
pliable and soft.
To make a round crown, work with the
braid on the block, starting with the center
crown — the spot on your block that would
correspond
Circle
ch the crown
the braid,
following
going
the outline
of your
round
head.
and
round,
of the block.
You
keep their shape. Just brush the sizing on
after the crown or brim has been blocked
and is dry. Sizing looks something like
shellac, but don’t make the mistake of
thinking you can use ordinary shellac in
its place! Some of the students tried that
once on black straws, and they came out
several days
later with gray straws. Hat
sizing is not supposed
to discolor.
a
ie
Remaki
a Coveredng
Frame: A “mistake
in the way of a covered frame hat is not
so easy to correct. You might try ripping
the brim
ent,
off and using an
harmonious, trim
but
These
hats ~ along
have the
but, lest
entirely
differ-
for the
crown.
wool
felts —
with
least possibilities for remaking;
I discourage you too much, I|
might also add that if you are really ingenious, you may
hth
be able to do something,
lela
lenaece
can sew on the block as your circle or you
ever
can pin the braid and then take it off to
Business Possibilities: The remaking and
sew. Use any kind of a stitch that can be
lost in the indentations of the straw. After
remodeling of hats —as the basis of a
small business — ought to present an op-
it is sewed, the crown must be blocked —
steam-pressed.
portunity to someone who is clever with
her hands. There need be no capital or
Sizing
overhead
most
Straw
Hats:
straws
need
You
will
sizing
to
find
make
BANDS,
If
you
like
ribbon
bands,
that
them
make
them
look individual by adding little bows or
loops of velvet or satin, and
to hat
pipe
on hair pins
attach them
and place
them
above each ear. If you have a piece left
over from your dress or blouse, make
hand-made
flowers,
attach
flowers
to
a
pin so that they can be switched around
to other hats.
Ulcer
pe
involved;
iia
secre
~ and
COU
there
are
lots
of old hats around, just waiting to be used!
AND
BOWS
WIL
To
BUTTONS
adda bright
note toa plain colored
band or calot, go through your button box
and
form
pick out vari-colored buttons of unisize and
scatter them
together
to
Bad
°° 927°
tons
place one
over your
“Anaiheritess
i
he
nolher dew ts io aaa
group
form
above
several
each
loops
ear,
by
hat
and
letting
it hang over the side of the hat.
61
‘ ese
ee
“.
ba
fs
:
+
i
Ay
ie
{/
ey
:
i
Out of style
Out of shape
ss
i
Out of style
Out of shape
—
ae
) sagt ae Go.
Good — but
must
change
style.
Good. Make a hat that goes
on back of head instead of
forward. (Crown will have to
be made more shallow if you
¥ sei
aes
mee
want to continue
forward.)
Out of style
satin
POSSIBILITIES
”
re
.
yee
ae.
ee pee
‘.
a
sae
a
WRONG?
=
as
WHAT'S
a
lieihen
Good.
Make
Many
possibilities.
to wear it
a “‘coolie.”
Out of shape
ee
:
ce)
aie
ae
‘Sie,
ee
pen
ae
i
7
Out of style
| Oa
so So
ga
aR.
ST
gens
i
ieee
poe
Out of shape
:
“
Cal
Soiled and
"4 oe “4 :
Good.
Will
need
new
trim.
out of shape
NL
ae
|
By
i Pee
Cpe
Soiled and
out of shape
2,
Ge.
BE Fer gaat ee
Sea
Be
a
oe eee
i)
>
ANers
Unless
you have beret t block
:
can't do much except
‘‘fresh-
en.” You can always use fur
felt for trimmings.
Soiled and
out of shape
:
You're
in luck! Wear
back-
—-ward instead of forward.
de
Ky
HOW TO CHANGE
é
Reblock crown, using a ‘makeshift’
block
to give height
est. Cut off narrow
fancy
and
new
style inter-
brim
and
turn upside
brim
and
crown
:
apart.
Freshen
block on round
crown.
Pin brim on again
to get proper arrangement. Sew and trim.
/
N =
yo
ay
:
% (
A
Ns
.
both by blocking. For back of head hat,
:
ares
@
:
down around top of hat. Bow trim.
Take
Z
a
if
AN)
-
y
SOE
—-
pf
£5
) a
“43
xe
:
a
Seen
and
take out enough
fits new
shallow crown.
in
by
brim
whipping
edges
together
on
makeshift
4
i
“re
:
Zy,
&
ome
-
something
Tk
that will come
Try
¥
ary
;
eT
like
N
original line of hat. Use new trim of
flowers, veiling or bow across front. . . .
as auee, {
a
e
Back
interest?
effect in back
Use
steam
Make
a cut-out
under
ladder
hat
and
hold
in
original
)
J
‘ t
e
=
sis
Ai’
tae
e
Z
aN
~~
a
J
wai
ae
a
:
line. Add
new ribbon or trim (or snood in back.)
Ae
s
:
steam from teakettle. Brush while steaming. Baby the hat~ pat and mold with
fingers — try to regain
BD
a J
=
Nate
e
ie:
of hat.
pad
eC
a
to use
near being
we
y
into many different styles.
fancy block.
bee
ef
te
a
Use
ay
:
Pull slightly tight.
remake
OM
“f
seam
wrong side. Steam press on right side.
Run hand stitching around edge of brim.
Can
Zz
way
so that it
.. . Make
“
Uorwsr
Reblock crown on round block. Cut center
brim
BF
ae
te
back
:
”
ba
:
4
»
oe
:
\
EE By
RE AE RS
genial
ap en
en aa
ae
See
SY
a
CN
oy
mS
ONG
IN
A
* *]b
oe
f
\
M
é
SS
oe
(
=
\,
\ta
\
rs
Wy
ae
be
;
~
Cf | Baeoe
Zo
ht
¥
ey aes
2
Chapter Nine
HOW
TO
MAKE
HAT
Foundation No. I: This is more difficult
to make than Foundation No. 2.
1. Cut six sections of crinoline by the
illustrated pattern.
Seams
are
allowed, but vary to your headsize. Use
¥%-inch seams for size 22/2 inches.
Use
Y-inch
seams for size 211
inches.
FOUNDATIONS
2.
Sew the sections together, three at a
time, as indicated. Use the sewing
machine. Open seams.
3.
4.
Combine the two halves of the crown.
Use the last seam as “front” and
“back”
when you
put the crown
(seam side up) on the back of the
block — as it will be worn on your
ig
head.
oes.
Bails
Re
ee
‘ee yy
a
ies aia
ae
Steam-press
Sta
under
~~
repin. Stretch the crinoline as it softens;
f
ie
2)
ie
:
ma
s
Sas
Be pull
“
?
¥
on
one
sections
64
(of 6-section
Combine
crown)
“halves”
at a time.
open;
steam
so that it
Pin
and
It is not enough
the crown
must be
Take the crown off the block when
dry;
three
seam
to press seams
5.
gether at a time.
the shape
blocked
— that is the trick. It is simple
when you get onto it.
Bees
Sew
Stretch
of the block.
$s
x
ae
open.
takes
=
ts
seams
ee
a
é a
the
the crinoline gently
to-
of hat.
cut
front,
use a
out
corset stay to remove. Now
the
taking
center
about
back
and
center
114
inch
off
at
ree|
these
two
points
line into the sides.
6.
Try
and
on the crown.
slanting
It should
your
Soa
sit at
rome farther
low.
both
11%
Trim
sides
down;
like
the
some like
crown
it more
front
to back,
12%
ae Se
ices ee
Bas
ee
to
shal-
inches
the crown to the block. Be
goes on the block the same
was originally. Pin the center
the block with several pins.
strip of bias buckram about
5 inches or 6 inches wide.
one :
Cele
“eee
ng
Completed
to your own taste, but keep
alike. Average size would be
inches
side to side.
7. Return
sure it
way it
top to
Cut a
women
ee
ia
break in your neck as you tip your
head back. The sides should just
cover the tips of your ears.
ees
Geeks
a
front. In the back it should clear the
Some
at
ag ieee
least 1 inch back of your hairline in
Note:
Ra
5 ee
crown made
out of crinoline after
it is blocked.
8.
10.
Place
the
wet
buckram
around
the
crinoline
crown; bring
the
ends
toward you (standing facing the center front of the block) . Pull. Notice
the magical way the buckram conforms to the shape of the block!
After the back is shaped
(be sure
buckram
Six section crown pattern — cut 6 pieces for each crown.
covers lower edge of crino-
(Full size ~ does not need enlarging.)
ie ae
:
qj
.
Stary
he
=
a
ere
ae
©
ey
Dre,
|
capa
=
alie are
v=
—
Fit crinoline crown to head (after it is blocked) and cut out at ae and back. ye it
i
ap
esac
ris
Nise y
Car
o
;
E
Replace
o
f iy
Say
wet
*
crown
on
buckram
and pull
around
back
and sides. S-T-R-E-T-C-H buck-
cas:
=
block
strip
ram.
eo
#
=.
-
m/e
\C
ey
cs
ON
eeu
<n
ey
line), cut off buckram strips at each
the
sizing
4
12.
66
=
Tae
a
1) saicare ceuin’ fomt. blocky alee om
head depth; wire edge. (b) Cover wired edge
with piece of tape or material.
Take the remaining buckram strips
and press across the front center and
cross the top center, thus covering the
If the buckram laps over in places,
cut it off; more than one layer is hard
to sew. If the buckram doesn’t stick,
it is because it is not wet enough.
Set the block aside and let the crown
dry thoroughly (about half a day) .
Use a large corset stay to loosen the
\
i
ee
Pek Pes
in it is acting as a
whole crinoline crown with buckram.
6)
a
—
gluing agent.
11.
tron.
aa
eS
side, after they cover the crinoline.
Press and smooth the buckram with
your fingers. The buckram will stick
me
cause
\
a \\
ic Bi
Cover crown completely with strips of bias
buckram. Let crown dry thoroughly.
=
s&
edges and top of the crown. Take the
crown off the block.
13.
14.
15.
Cut
off the surplus
buckram
at the
lower edge. Use the crinoline crown
(inside the hat) as a pattern. Try the
hat on to check its depth. Your cutting line should be clean and smooth.
Wire the edge of the crown.
After the wire is sewed on all around,
cover it with a bias strip of material
K
about 14 inches wide. Fold the material over the wire and sew with a
running stitch. Any kind of material
will do, because when you cover, the
oe. E em
Ff sa
( =
eka
Tape aemene
|
hat material will come over the edge.
eaeepame
The
=
foundation is now
complete and
ready for covering.
Cover “pe eee with 6 sections of
16.
material cut
allow seams
ae
YF
Niza
eset
y
| e~
Tee
at i
aro
so o~
like the pattern. Do not
as they are already in-
ie
aa
7
¢.
,
a)
v
+
yo”
‘i
=
}
Hi
x
(Nay
&
cluded in the pattern. After the pieces
together, put the material
crown on the block (seams up) and
steam-press your seams open. Stretch
ae.
ee
and pin the material to the block. It
will have enough “give” to cover the
f
edge
17.
f
of your trame
oo
18.
me.
Son
ae
Rem
ber
ember,
eZ
eae
are sewed
d
pace
thi
:
FOUNDATION
VISOR
this
CROWN
added
NO.
1.
Cap
Jockey
with
Pe staaee: the
tying foundation on the head.) After the
frame, keeping trackcof the, center
fronts. Fold the excess material inside dhe crown baste:
aorons is covered, add visor brim (pattern
0” Page 69) across the front. Trim with a
bow at top center where you joined visor
Use’
a
running.
buckram and
bring
side,
stitch
through
material. When
your ‘thread through
put
your
needle
the
to/crown.
you
Foundation
the right
back
in
No.
II:
Foundation
I re-
quired a crinoline under-layer because the
the
crown
covered
so much
of the block that
same hole. It will seem as though you
it would have been impossible to remove
are undoing what you have just done,
but the thread will almost always
catch on the buckram, crinoline or
material.
19. Your crown is now ready fora brim.
it without the crinoline underneath. Foundation II, however, is shallow; and buckram may be used directly on the block.
It will stick, but when thoroughly dry may
be peeled off. Use a corset stay to loosen
If you don’t want a brim, trim with
flowers, bows, or a couple of feath-
the edge.
:
1. Cut the buckram by: the pattern. Use
ered birds.
hops
Notice
the hats
that foundation crowns
.
ss
Note:
carry nothing
oe Ca
ropety Cut
ey Once
i,sually
ee
inches front to back
on
and
these
10
11 inches side to
measurements
Put
it on the
ee
’.
buckram
a
block.
“cute hat fora cute vous girl
you wire it. It should measure about
(Check
the buckram.
Ce
would be a jockey cap. Use this same
foundation, cutting it very shallow before
side.
bias as indicated.
rr
IG
Boe
A
2a
.
Da
ee
in the
lots of-times' you will see.)
by
place
UL
toward
If
you
the
want
the buckram
front
a
of
the
pompadour,
on the back
of the
block.
3.
Smooth
the
conforms
wet
buckram
to the block,
so
that
keeping
it
an
oval in mind as you stretch it on. Lift
it off
the
block
several
times
and
67
eae
ee
oes
bo
Bares
seed
oS
ceae
po et,
hes,
Bg
epee
ae
gaia
Se
a
‘
See
:
:
x P
ae
(placement of
wet
buckram
a
ee
Same, back view.
ae
Se
ee
FOUNDATION NO. 2 (use pattern, page
69 and cut bias buckram).
SOR rae:
2 Raa fe
iced
wire edge.
a niga
ie
back
BES:
age
se
eo
or
dae
Ne ae
smooth again. Each time you do this
ee
you will fired that there are fewer
‘
coe TIN.
ie
\
at
a
po
ae
et
ee
foe
a
Ss
a
ae
ae
ae
off the block.
g
edge
pay
yy
6.
Make
(hi
pe
Sea
r
;
dk
Be
eee
eae Sa owes
fon ege Yio hat,
on
Finish with blocked lining
and
68
headsize.
ee
ayn
it is clean
and
even.
Paver
and
34 inch seam
on
the
allowance
:
bias.
all
around.
ope
i:
7.
BER:
‘
so that
Wire the edge.
Cover this crown with material cut
after the
Steam press...
ei,
o
:
a
pinning
on
bloc!
(bias front to back)
be
e
wrinkles in the edge of your buckram.
Let it dry thoroughly before taking
5. After taking it off the block, trim the
Block
“>
[=
4.
aN
Ea
oy tae
pe
jae
Maca:
Oo
apa
Tririm and
|
=
Forward hat,
‘view.
ee
aah:
oe
Off the
on
block).
se
Bix
eo
hat, front
Forward
view
pei te
setaeRoe
ee
=
Stretch your material over your block
just as you did your buckram. Steam-
press and pin it to the block. Let it
8.
dry.
Put the material over the frame and
turn under the edge. Follow steps 17
9.
The crown is now ready for brims or
and 18 for Foundation I.
trims.
.
:
a
rouparionsrar: | | eT
TERN NO. 2
(to be enlarged)
ter TN
ler]
7|
Wa
IS
\
(a) To enlarge this pattern,
draw
Rule
IN
‘A
a rectangle 9” x 10”.
off rectangle in one
inch squares. Draw outline,
following the lines of this
pattern which are set in one-
squares.
half inch
(b) La: completed pattern
on ficlesin
(bias as _indicated). Cut out buckram,
wet and stretch over block.
Notch
is center front
of
vs
i
lJ
Sg
N
|
Na
ee
SS
a
-~
(a) To enlarge, follow pro4
cedure
above
in
first para-
graph.
'
(b) Lay pattern on buckram, ins —
a
rnd
ram along edge*indicated
by
“
.
:
mee
|
NQ
all
~
A
=
‘Vota
=
otitage on
ee |
Le
ay
\N
“a
Ye
CNH
a
ca oe
SS | Bseaeic
5
ee
mee.
aS
ea
EG
ee)
(e(ee
Sane,
Repetto
:
See
7
hy
[giibeetcssr Seas ea"
Chapter Jen
READY-MADE
Covering a frame is an easy and inexpensive way to make a hat. If you live in
a city and can make purchases atamillinery supply house, you will be able to find
hundreds of different styles and shapes.
FRAMES
are using a stretchy dull black crepe, you
can cover a brimmed frame very beautifully —the
result will look almost like
black felt.
Covering
a ready-made
frame
takes
They are made out of buckram and elastic _ less time, naturally, than making a frame
net; and even the amateur, if she sews
and then covering the hat. If ready-made
neatly, can doa good job on them, The
frames are available, do try them out.
lines of the hat are already established —
Don’t overlook the possibilities of comall you need do is cover.
bining parts of ready-made frames with
After
you
have
covered
a few
simple _ sections
frames, you can attempt the more elaborate ones. In selecting your frame, choose
a stiff, well-made one — the soft or care-
lessly made
frames get out of shape very
quickly.
You can use almost any kind of material
to cover, but do try to suit the frame to
your material. For instance, if you have
heavy suiting or coating, choose a simple,
brimless frame. On the other hand, if you
70
of frames
that
you
are
able
to
make yourself. For instance, you ‘may like
a certain crown and be able to make it.
But if you wish to add a brim that you
cannot
make —a
rolled brim,
such
as a
Breton or Fedora, etc. (these are blocked
on a special brim block) — make your
crown and buy your brim. Or you might
like to make your own flat brim and combine it with a fancy blocked ready-made
crown.
manesei, e
COVERING
sie
hie
—
t
DER
ia
ak
ses
ae
SRE eee ee
ees
eee
¢ a
RE.S.
es
a
BE
Miittn x0
a
Sailor: ete
Saale
ea
ORES ko
gpl
ee
a.
Niisei
=a
TIE
Pp
made
Ready
FRAMES,
:
ee
;
MADE
e
gia an
aah
READY
eee “Ready
sie
- E
frame.
Breton
made
J
a\
J
BRS
i
>
ae
OES.
"a
After you have material
cut for brim, sew slashed
fe:
as
sep
-
—
section around crown.
Whip edge of material to
edge of brim, cutting off
excess material.
Pay
EN
?
Proceed same way with.
aN
Breton brim except that ~
/%° outer edee is semedegg
" \
lem, and different milliners have different
ways of working out the same problem!
A few general instructions, plus some specific examples, however, may help youu
work your own solution.
If your frame has its brim sewed to the
crown, you might do well to take the sections apart. Rip out the machine stitching
at the juncture of crown and brim (making a note of center front on both pieces),
ee
a
er
at
Every frame presents a different prob-
a
#
, ij
on upper side of brim be-
USING A READY-MADE FRAME _
ee
vcr.
Sas ota
ys
er
eR
material should be glued
F
S
*
@r""
Under side
of hat showing how
turns over wire.
binding
Turn your hat upside down and hold
your material over the brim. You will
want a bias, running from back to front—
so you will use a corner of your material
and then proceed to cover each section in _ in the center back. Let the point hang over
the same way that you would cover one the brim and pin the center back and
of your own frames. (You will need to center front.
make a muslin pattern from the frame and
then cut your material, using the pattern.)
After brim and crown are covered separately, you can combine them again.
Many frames, however, have brims and
Smooth the material over the brim
Pin it all around the edge of the
This will seem awkward to you at
working with your material over
doing!
you must cover these as if crown and brim
gers.”
blocked
or
molded
together;
were a single unit. The ready-made sailor
and Breton described here are examples
of this type of frame.
sides.
brim.
first,
your
frame; you can’t really see what you are
and
crown
Learn
“eyes
to have
ES
in your
fin-
:
Cut the material all around your brim.
Give yourself leeway by cutting % inch
beyond the pins.
71
F
;
gee
Z
)\ 3
c/
Bb
ae
8 A
7, 4
os
My
ZA
Lp
Za
&
ti
}
ti
EY, Lf
ZF
NN
a Bee
ae
Here
2 Sharad
brim.
Take your material off the frame and
cut a second layer exactly like the first,
to
front.
If
&
your material has a wrong and right side,
=
lay
VS
¢
your
“pattern”
(first
side up on the wrong
ee
layer. One
<
back
a bias running
keeping
=
SY
4
a oa
in the dark;
Gye
AG.
NBS
(\es
=)
vO
AMES ee \ J
are working
the frame up to the light.
Slash the %4-inch leeway all around.
The slash should be just deep enough to
almost meet the juncture of crown and
fo
e.
Ee
again you
—~ but either feel with your fingers, or hold
a
une
gies
\
ae
{a3 Fee dice
SL
>
ee
fmt Evi
ee cate
section) right
side of the
lower
of these layers you now slip
over your crown. Notice that the slashed
section hugs the side of the crown. Smooth
it down and sew it at the juncture of crown
and brim. Use a large basting stitch and
Breton with round crown.
go around
ee fi
i pa
SS
aC
mmm««nn
i
- i
Wee
7S
i(
oe
ae
|
ai
ey
Sew
a
the
material
to the edge
of the
brim. If you have used glue, wait until it
TA ot
Ss re
is dry. The material will hang over the
edge of the brim; but do not turn under.
} ¢
a
or “down”
(See Millinery Glue
~ Chapter II.)
es
j
mushroom
A
side.
or ‘i!
be glue
brim needs to be glued on the underside.
——SO Wee
?®)
be done now. a Bee
that curves up will need to
on the top
Bee oh
-
—”
~~
eel
brim
‘
iN
ee
twice.
If there is any glue to be applied, it
Prepare
y
to sew
the edge
stitch and trim away
pS
you
sew.
Cut
away
with
an overcast
excess material
a
few
inches,
as
then
sew; cut away a few inches, and then sew,
Small sailor with flat crown
etc. Cutting away the material as you sew
means
Now that you a
rid of the rest of the
material,
ee will note that yOu have
taken your first pattern
from a frame
i
a
‘
i
:
brim, cutting directly into the material.
Tissue patterns taken over a frame are not
ey
WV eEY,
not
satisfactory
“give”
as
because
the
material gives.
better, but involves more
tissue
does
Muslin
is
time.
cut out the
center
section
(head
opening) giving yourself 34-inch leeway.
72,
Keep
the
material
smoothing
your
overcast the raw
aeeae
of the
buckram.
Follow
the
der brim. The
the crown.
Leaving your material pinned over edge
of brim,
that
will
always
be
just right~ never short and never over.
edge
material
to the
same procedure
as you
2
wired edge
for the
slashes should fit up
Sew
un-
inside
at the juncture of crown
and brim. The material along the brim
edge
should
now
be
cut
away
and
edge overcast to the edge of the brim.
the
5
Bind the edge of the brim with material
binding.
Cut a bias
strip
a little longer
than the circumference of the outside edge
of the brim. It should be about 2% inches
wide. Fold the bias and press it in the
center, lengthwise.
Pin the raw edges
of
Cn
(a)
the
third
sewing the bias strip to the
Make this stitching just a
an
overcast
stitch
(for
brim
trifle
deeper than the others.
Note: Do not use an overcast stitch that
is too close together; make one stitch about
every
1
material.
binding
is
se
pa
Nea
Sy
=
Cee
Se
st
ais
STEER
nie
ee
este soit
=
——s
Cae
—
Na
Eeeboorouemnennpeige
ee
Ee
Completed sailor with draped cover band.
inch.
Bias binding may also be sewed on by
machine.
(b)
eee
iit sgewed on erlge af be
edge of the hat brim.
Use
ee
Flat ‘crown ‘is covered
The binding on a Breton should eventu-
time)
edge.
ising
Si,
ee
as
ee
Rene”
Sailor
ae
the bias binding to the edge of the brim.
ally fold in toward the crown; sailor binding should fold down and under the brim.
Stretch the binding as you pin it to the
oe
tet
very close
Flat Crown: Cover the flat crown with a
to the wired
piece of material which extends over the
edge. Lap the bias strip at the center back
and turn the fold of material over the edge
edge. It should be about % inch larger all
around than the crown. Sew it %4 inch
of brim. Slip-stitch the folded edge of the
below the top edge. Stretch the material.
bias to the other side of the brim.
To finish, press the bias binding under
After it is sewed to the crown, trim away
excess material
(below sewing line)
a damp
Sew
cloth with
a warm
get the rest of the brim
iron.
damp,
Do
not _ evenly.
or it will
buckle.
If your
A plain ora draped cover band may be
used
bias
either because
bias, or because
wrinkles
at places,
you did not have
it is
a true
you did not hold the raw
to finish the hat.
In either case,
the
cover band should be cut on the bias, and
should fit the crown very snugly.
Cover
Band:
For
a
draped
band,
allow
edges evenly together as you stitched.
A neater back joining may be made by
measuring your bias to your brim edge
twice the height of the crown. For a
straight band, allow 14% inches for turnunder. The length of the drape depends
ana
upon the size of
then
seaming
thenbingabelace you
start to overcast the binding. On your sec:
i
ond hat you will be able to do this because
‘
6
:
you now will have an idea of just how
5
BR
much you should stretch the bias binding.
This is the procedure to follow for brims
of both hats. You will vary your technique
your
Cou
around tightly, stretching
and allowing
*
Measure
your
it
material
for a center back seam.
(Pin
it where your seam should be and then
sen
sew this line up on the machine.)
Stretch your seamed drape over your
crown: burmmsunder the ai, edge at the
bottom, covering
the
slashed pieces
of
on covering the crowns, because they are
not alike — one is flat on top while the
brim covering. Pin your drape at the juncture of crown and brim so that it will be
other is rounded.
under
control.
1
a
(Oo area
Sy
e
oes;
:
A
4.
j
4
sia ina
/
i
Bie
ie :
Ae
aa
.
aa
(left) Breton frame with both sides of brim covered with material and edge of brim is bound
.
(right) Blocked material crown fits over round crown of frame. Trim is tubing tied in a
knot.
Turn raw edge under at the top of the
drape, pushing the drape down over the
crown.
If it is tight
naturally
_
into
enough,
a drape,
and
it will
with
help may be pinned into even pleats. The
top
edge
of the
drape
the top of the crown.
should
Tack
just meet
the drape
inch allowance;
steam-press this material
to the top of your block.
until
(under
blocked.
steam)
When
Stretch and pin,
the
material
is
dry, take it off the block
top
and fit it to your crown. Pin and cut away
and bottom, being careful not to oversew.
Wont letthe stitches shove.
©*°€SS material. Sew
in place.
Finish
juncture of crown and brim with a circled
Round
with
ribbon or a piece of bias tubing. Both of
Crown: Covering
material
involves
a
the
round
use
crown
of a
DO’S
Do _
\
Do
Do _
s
Do
Do
hat
AND
read this book in its entirety before
starting your hat making. There are
specific instructions for individual
hats, but general rules and information should also be applied.
cut your material on a bias!
stretch your material for a professional finish.
try to hide your stitches. Try different ways of sewing; maybe you
can invent a new stitch.
try to improve your workmanship
as you go
make will
Try
‘
fall
a little
block. Cut a piece of material the approximate size of your crown with about a 2-
along. Every hat you
teach you something.
to remember
Do
Do
make the easier hats first.
Do
watch
Don't
Do
movies,
street. Making
make
you
and
Do
the
your own hats will
hat-conscious,
and
you
be
lined
sewed
and
should
in.
can pick up lots of ideas. If you try
an idea and it doesn’t seem to work,
rip it out and start over. If it is possible to do, you can do it ~ someone else did.
get discouraged with a failure and
throw it away. Stick with it until
you have made something out of it.
stray too far away from current
trends when you are “designing
your own.” Leave that to Dache,
Victor or the John-Fredericks!
“baby” your hats. The nearer you
get to finishing, the kinder you
use the right supplies and the right
equipment for your particular hat.
c
:
It is better to make a simple hat and
‘
do it well than to attempt an elabpen eae
vanlnie
ceick
:
an unpro-
on_
to
ribbon
must be.
the hats in shop windows,
magazines,
74
Don’t
can doa quick, neat job.
if
.
‘
ever = ‘ hot iron touch
tected
telt.
need
headsize
DON’TS
that lesson when
no ee
to work ote Our nest hat.
practice sewing on wire until you
,
Don’t
these hats
have
Do
you are not equipped.
remember
that
hats
can
be
made
out of anything if you use the right
foundations.
:
eae
ed
eae
Gas:
385
ae
Seay
Bas
2S
fe
4
at ae
eS:
PERE...
EGG
a
Ry
a
RE rats
Nom
ae
——
7.
AN
cS ia
Peps Casts peti
@
ee
A . ORaeee
NG
a
ae
5s.
|
ZA
( (4
Chapter Eleven
FRAMES—AND
If you
ever want
to become
HOW
TO
a profes-
sional Milliner, you will want to know
how to make frames. Even amateur hatmakers will find that covered frames, in _
MAKE
your
OWN
black and when it is wet, it will not shed
the dye. Even if it is not the exact type of
buckram described in this book, you will
still be able to make use of it.
many cases, will make up into the easiest,
least expensive and most effective hats.
To use dress scraps and to make
YOUR
MAKING
On
the
THE FRAME
:
i
following pages, you will find
x
F
hat material match your costume, you will
several
b
1
HAVE TO USE A FRAME OF SOME sorT. If
‘
7
ready-made frames are available, you will
After they are enlarged, use in the follow-
find
Seen
that
it takes
less
3
time, naturally,
to
use one of them. But if you can not buy
a
Z
‘
them, you still will be able to use dress,
5
suit and coat scraps of material (or bar-
:
gain
b
:
remnants) if you are able to make
Tames and fooadniens
ae
id
ee
‘t
ATES
=.
a
uckram — it
pa. it, xe
order
several
your
local
to ee
yards.
ram. as it is more
store
Coes not
bas city ie
easily
rder
WHITE
marked
than
_
buck-
the
pages of patterns
Aiosobiainit
°° C™ reed
¢
fo oDfain
which need
edtoan
True acs
to
one
:
1.
A
:
Lay all pieces of your particular hat
pattern on buckram. Draw around patr
terns with sharp pencil. Cut buckram.
B
2.
Wire edge of top-crown and sew
d
ie
s
si
side-crown to the
same wire.
Start overcasting side crown to center front of top
OE
pea
SS
we recs to
end
of
strip.
eae
end
of
[urn
he
strip.
hat around
TL
Lap
front
buckram
and
and
1
start
ag
sew
qT
bac!
seam.
75
parsers
fe
y
I
it|
meee
ea?
ee
e
ON re
eee
|
|
TOP
[site crown |
_—
CROWN
SIDE
==
2
=
CROWN
OF
SMALL
Si
=.
aR
\
amen
Wire
t
re
d si
I
i
|
nSVt
side crown to THis aaa
ieee
i
#4
N
c=
crown.
|
\
\
wire. Wire lower edge of
/ |
|
SAILOR
<Coy
MeN : |)
ee
oe e
| Pe
~~
]
3
Be oe
Ss es oe
Wire
edge
of brim.
“bending
line”
(sewing
line)
inner
edge.
}
Es-
tablish
at
|
7 elie | te \
IN S
Sse,
P| SBDPo ee
li
|
<a
Ce
| ee
Cover
Use
cr
trimming
d_
bri
as desired.
eth
ae
a
crow
ne
°
5
3
=
=
and enlarge pillbox
Make
(Norte:
signed
Visor hat and
for 22”
made
smaller
Pillbox
are
de-
They
can
be
headsize.
or
larger
by
back
ner
edge.
TRY HAT ON HEAD and sew seam accordingly.
Do
not fit too tightly
because
terial will take up space.)
i
ihe
f
S
3.
eee
Nore cae ee
sigs
your
crown.
curely, This
4.
Wire
Lap
34”
wire
completes
crown
and
rim
wired)
seam.
sew
cut
your
brim
bending
is
(where
buckram
important,
COVERING
it
%4”
because
is
not
|
from
it
is
|
THE
FRAME
3
1. Use same patterns for cutting out
materials, but make following seam allow-
f
se:
se-
(a)
Make
1/3”
seam
allowance
around edge of Brim.
to
wire is indicated by dotted line on pattern.
5. Establish a “sewing” line on the in-
(b) Make 34” seam allowance around
TOP CROWN.
Y
=
CIF.
-
J
out of buckram
where you will sew brim to crown.
frame.
the edge of brim. Where
of
by
This
ma-
d
<ea
and
pattern
Q
=.
~
f
\
4
a
side
baa
after
same
to this
crown
wire.
aeree
\
/
to directerial
cal according
eer
ee
tions. Use bow, flowers,
veiling, etc., across front.
ae
ee
7
~
lt
LEER
AXXX<b
PSs.
Aah
S
SS
EEE
ASSIS
Pt
ROX
ssc
SEE
oe
BXWSSCOR
S
3
ROOK SSX
CRYOERK
ee SSS
site
ew
CRY,
(c)
Make
1” allowance top and bot-
tom, SIDE Crown. Do not make allowance
on ends of sipE crown. This piece must
be cut on the bias and the stretch will
compensate.
(d)
wide and long enough to go around lower
edge of crown.
2. Sew bias strip around bottom of
crown wire, half inside the hat and half
out.
3. Cover top crown with its piece of
crown
Stitch
rows can be
Cut a bias piece of material, 11/2”
material,
5.
sewing
wire. This
edge
1%”
must be
below
top
s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d
on.
6.
There
should
material
(top
these
should
sides out.
be two pieces of
and
bottom)
and
be
sewed
together, wrong
(1/3”
seam)
Turn
sewing
machine,
1/3” to ¥4” apart.
line of brim and reestablish your “sewing line”.
7. Attach brim to partially
covered
crown at sewing line—brim
goes OVER
the crown. Sew around twice with a running stitch.
8.
Take the piece of material cut like
side-crown
and
sTRETCH
It should
be
around
a ticuT
crown
Fit.
Pin
placement of back seam, take off crown
and sew up back seam on machine.
9. Slip
completed
cover-band
over
ma-
crown, turning edges under, both top and
terial right side out and insert frame brim.
Smooth and “baby” your material—keep
the inside seam all on one side of the
bottom. Tack in place. Your hat is now
ready for trim, lining and head size ribbon.
wire. Overcast
sure
that
the seam
it stays
in
brim
on
Trim away excess material at inner
of hat.
4.
brim
brim
starting center back and just within the
wired edge. Stitch ‘round and ‘round until brim is completely covered. Stitching
to the wire to be
place.
This
is im-
portant for a good, clean edge. Smooth
and stretch (toward the center) the rest
of brim material and baste in place with
large stitches.
HATS
THAT
Note:
Steps
(a) Pillbox has no brim. Follow
1, 2, 3, 8 and 9 for pill box.
(b) Linings for these hats are made
by cutting material after top crown and
side crown patterns. Make small seam allowance.
BECOME
YOU
(Whether you make them—or buy them)
In the old days a woman might sigh
nostalgically for the most becoming hat
It is a different
situation
all silhouettes are in. About
today.
the worst mil-
she'd ever had. But even as she sighed,
linery crime you can commit
she
wear
style
is concerned)
out of
hat.
Otherwise,
realized
that
it again. Why?
she
would
Because
never
it was
Almost
(insofar as
is to have
too
much
you can wear your hat
style.
an
i
As
the millinery cycles
turned,
it
seemed that the current silhouettes were
adopted almost universally.
Trims and
forward, backward, orto the side. You can
I
di
I bri
oe
hai een
ecr eta
eal
brim at all.
mained similar — until a new silhouette
came in and then everyone switched to
that every woman would soon be able to
find her perfect hat. Perhaps the reason
that.
many fail to wear what is most becoming
colors might, and did, vary, but lines re-
With all this leeway, one would think
‘
79
(ag
4
fy
«,
Yy 4
Vi
y/
Post Vl
oe
lias?
mh
AOS
)
5
a
\ if
aN ep
y \\G
(ie
Ei
)
f
CG
Wie
J
,
(;
;
C
oe
a
Many
different
silhouettes
today.
Choose
the one
are in good style
that
does
ee
the most
to choose.
If this is the reason,
K
\
those
YO
whom
one
comes
in
contact
a “‘try-
SS,
ph
—
aN
i,
4
” eas i
ee
CO
eee
CE
zee
can put on any kind of a hat and look
Hair
style,
features,
coloring, profile,
consideration by.
the
woman
who
wants
7
—~
5
have a weakness in that respect — it’s not
that serious, thank heavens!)
One man’s comment, “Some women
and size of body should all be taken into
le MimT
| [@
f
ey
Mia
(4
Fo
ee
oe
Eytite:
Pay
ae
oy
oo
-
TE
80
it is difficult, if
rh
it
\ a
Je
ZA
\ Gf i
. « y
iW
Se
i,
sl
Ve
=
ig
her hats to do something for her. Because
of all the factors involved,
Io
ee
Z
out” of different styles.
As a rule, most men like “hats that are
hats.” That's what they wear themselves
and they seem to feel that something small
is silly-looking. (Of course, this doesn’t
keep them from marrying the females who
wonderful; some can put on any kind and
look awful,” totally disregards the vast
majority who can look well in some hats.
Spe
rah coe Se
a
might clarify the situation. Make
si
SE EG Se
PZ
little thoughtful study of the reactions of
with
oe
GSE
is because they have too many styles from
which
|
Fy
A
?)
he
’
g
Fl]
,
,
rind
not impossible, to set up ‘general rules’
that will hold true in all cases.
The wearing of glasses aways seems to
create a problem and lots of advice has
been
given out about it. The wearers
should — or shouldn’t — do so and so. Yet
I have known of instances where women
who wear glasses can wear practically any
style —with
or without brims! Possibly
NOT
the way the hair was dressed, and the uncluttered look of the hats, had a lot to do
with the final effects. At any rate, it makes
me a little cautious about giving out advice as to what style you should wear. The ©
way you feel in a hat ~and comments
from your friends and relatives ~ ought to
be your best guide and influence when it
comes to choosing a hat.
RULES—JUST
COMMON
Todt you are tall
and don’t want to
look taller — don’t wear high crowns.
Olt you are short, you can add height
with your crown; but don’t exaggerate
too much, or you will look shorter than
ever.
Slt you are plump, be careful of “pinheaded” effects. Your hat can help to
balance your complete silhouette.
4, In choosing a turban-type hat, be sure
that the width of the upper part is as
wide — or wider — than the broadest
part of your face.
SANE you are small-featured, wear modified styles. Extremes will be overpow-
6.
If you have large, prominent features,
choose styles
that have
noticeable
dash and verve. Delicate materials,
trim, and lines are not for you.
7. If you love big-brimmed hats, wear
them when their lines are not spoiled
by collars or furs. Remember, too, that
they are good-weather hats; they don’t
take kindly to wind, rain or snow.
8. Wear hats that are appropriate to the
occasion and season.
9. Wear hats that blend in harmoniously
with the rest of your clothes.
Wear hats — because the right kind
will improve your appearance.
ering.
Wear
hats!
a0)
‘
RON
es
TOCVER
Ba
We
TF
;
ee
oe
<//
aN
ERE.
)
Sete
tr,
=ONG
ep hye
REA
Se
\ ch,
ee
Fe =a
Met:
Came
Wi
>
(HG
-)
CICS
> /] Peer
5M
a oy
x
LU
oY Sigs
Ne
4 Is
fe
1 Tf se
DM<y
Vy
\ \\ \\ \
elu
(S
Wen \
¢
NBON
NSB
SOP
ye
ee
ae oF.
pile
IS Gy
A
&
SENSE
hee
oa
:
os
5
Le
[(F7
ap
Sy eo)
a
es
ELIE
WE Ses
ie
ai
|
“CUT-OUT”
Ways to use old felt orstraw crownsare
CROWNS
Usea square of buckram about 12” x 12”.
numerous. Cut-outs,” such as those sugWet buckram and stretch on block, using
gested in the illustrations are interesting
bias front and back. If you are using the
and easy to do. A trim can be added to
kind of buckram that is “double”
(the
accent the cut-outs.
type most commonly sold) be sure that
If a straw crown is used, all cut edges
the “cloth side” is the side that touches
must be either bound or turned under—
the block.
otherwise they will fray and ravel. GrosWhen crown is dry and removed from
grain ribbon which has been doubled and
block, trim edges and make cut-outs as decircled (See Chapter 2) makes a good sired. (Try the crown on your own head
finish for a raw edge. It must be stretched
to be sure that you are getting proper size
on and then sewed by hand or by machine,
and depth.)
Crown edge and cut-outs
A felt crown would not require the ribbon
must be wired before covering with mabut it would improve the appearance of the _ terial. Any kind of dress materials may be
hat to use it.
used including cottons,
ginghams,
etc;
The same “cut-out” ideas may be used
This type of hat makes
a particularly
on blocked buckram crowns which youcan
clever accompaniment to a summer enmake yourself
(See Foundations Page
semble, as they are cool and lightweight;
64). Since these crowns are shallow, you
in felt, velvet or tweed they will highlight
can use the buckram directly on the block.
your fall and winter clothes.
Hat No. 1
ae
Cut
ae
Be
out
crown
a
as indicated.
Make
a
a
stuffed tubing (see tubing, Page 15) and
_ drape with a long narrow strip (bias) of
Cc
|
on
checked
j
or plaid
taffeta
or
use
crepe
to
match foundation of hat. Sew the draped
q
4
tubing all around the edge of hat, following the cut-out edge until crown is reached.
©,
a
Finish with a small bow.
ae
se
ee
Baya
a
ee
4
ARR
ee
Os
NES
= AS)
6
‘re
KY
} ¥
be
De?
Y
ie
iS
u,
3
Sie
aS
oe
ts
Re
E
MY
bh
Ph|
Zs y
Cc
Hat No. 2
S
beaniei
‘
or calot as inFill in center with a coarse mesh
‘ut out crown of
dicated.
A) veiling. Use more veiling as aruffle across
Axx
front
WASP
USI ERN
WAKER
CRY
a
4
<
| ~
(
RY
ROC
>
ye
a CFR
a;
fan Bie ;
lw
2
OPS
OOP oy
——
er
We P
\
of hat, or snood at back of hat.
e's
&
i]
=
Bk
:
_ >
A)
~ i
oes
i
a=
ae
See
eae
:p See
Sheen
age
(
=
v
aah
~ go
(2)
a
wees 2
“ei
Ray
AR pos
eed
oN
Wet
mT
3
F
a8
vi
Re
ae
q Ky
(nochel Schon
ea
~
‘
nS
{yw
Re: )
ay 8
f
a new quick
for your
eS
6
4
CaS
Here's
hat
= Small diamond
|
/
:
ee
nia
Materits:
knit
wardrobe.
shaped
pieces of felt. Sew a felt piece to wrong
Tt Gea ae
=
Bat) auske a veryralinae:
tive upturned brim.
side of each Trim piece.
Roll Hat up ai front and
place.
Tack
eens
3 balls of Pink, or any de-
.
tack roll in
opposite corners of Trim pieces
Tack bottom of each piece to
Fold ribbon in half lengthwise and ma-
sired shade.
chine stitch through center. Cut 6 pieces
Set of 4 double-pointed bone knitting
of ribbon each
needles No. 5.
12 inches long and tie
each piece in a bow. Tack bows to center
Ye yard of navy blue felt.
of Trim
3 yards of navy blue grosgrain ribbon,
half and sew an end to each side of Trim
1 inch wide.
pieces. Cut remaining
section. Tie
ends
in a bow.
RED
Tee
ribbon in
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
Gauce: 5 sts make 1 inch; 7 rows make
1 inch. Starting at lower edge, cast on 90
f
sts divided on 3 needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts, and work in stockinette
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
a (k
each md) until piece measures 6'/2
edge
in half and,
inches in all. Bind off. Fold the bound
working
through
ee
*@VoTIte color.
2 balls
of Red,
or your
Cap . . . Starting at top, ch 4. Join. 1st
off
rnd:
both
10 sc in ring.
2nd
rnd:
* Sc in next
sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around.
ete
make a row of sc, thus joing
the top together. Tack the 2 ends of this
3rd rnd: Sc in each sc around. 4th rnd:
* 2 sc in next sc, sc in each of the next
sc TOW
Trim
Crocheted
together on the wrong side.
(Make 6) . . . Starting at center,
tng
version
of
cast on 4 sts (1 st on each of 2 needles, 2
pre ae
sts on 3rd needle). Join. 1st rnd: * Inc 1
cee
st in next st. Repeat from
rnd: * Inc 1 stinnext st, k 1.
around. 3rd rnd: * Inc 1
k 2. Repeat from * around.
crossed bands give this
one an intriguing look.
It's oe of yeshall
Ca
al a
* around. 2nd
Repeat from *
st in next st,
4th rnd: * Inc
1 st in next st, k 3. Repeat from * around.
Continue in this manner to increase 4 sts
Using a Trim piece for a pattern,
*See page 86 for key to abbreviations.
cut6
Se
a
}
%
on each rnd, always having 1 st more between increases than on previous mduntil
there are 44 sts on rnd. Bind off loosely.
|
*
x
©|
©
a
a
wot
hie as
5
K
\
YY < oo
TO) Fd
)
(
y
UY
Ce
Y
SY
aa
Av
We
=
NGF
ms
Ns
Born
&
4
Pore
(OE
eM beic
(|
ores \
j
=
Oa
\
a \
.
\ a»
es
Om %
oF )"
S
4
e
\
:
83
;
2 sc. Repeat from * around (20 sc). 5th
Clee oo ~ se around. 7th
oak Pova®
ae es
qd
a
Beh.
:
Oh
Oak
d d ith a
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
Cator . . . Starting at center with
Black, ch 4. Join. 1st rnd: 10 sc in ring.
Qnd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around. 3rd rnd:
i
sc around.
:
‘
i
i
Same as 7th rnd (45 sc). 12th to 15th rnds Potton (40 sie
ae eee
incl: Sc in each sc around. 16th rnd: 3 sc
Sanne eadl sa Key: Sthirnd: *-Se in
in next sc, sc in each of the next 33 sc
Mextides > ea in nest a Rapeat from.”
(front), 3 sc in next sc, sc in each sc to
end of md. 17th to 2tst mds incl: (Sc in
ar
ae sc of ey
os are
t. ui
(69 a
eae Caer na mal S me
on
a Fi
r eon "Sn, we irra
pit Se ee a hf
.
ae
cross.
2nd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch
ort
ee
i
oy "Ch
iB
cf
ea
a
oe, UN
ereees
TOS
i
‘
acne
eer
RitUER.
1, turn.
arcand 160
sc). 9th and 10th rnds: Sc in
each sc around. 11th rnd: 3 sc in neal 8c,
sc in each of the next 12 sc (center back),
3 sc in next sc, sc in each sc around. 12th
and
(Sc
3th, mas:
sc of
in sc to center
3-sc group, 3 sc in next sc) twice, sc in
each sc to end of rnd (72 sc). 14th, 15th
and
16th rnds: Sc in each sc around.
a Foe
ao
ais
1
Greon
SI st
asda
22 inches nal. Break of Sew the 2 Red) Stating center, ch 20, Join
;
pi
il
R
ens
Base
ao ends Saas Sew i 2 hier a
Backs
Sora ronvetG
Fr, | ripe SiG.
‘
Si
PB
ft )
“Z
We
ge 7
Be | iy,
ms a
=
y
it = ES
ti}
Cy
qos
{
oe |
c
4
~~
sa
ba,
\
ui
ea
Eee
i
aan
- cotton crochet make
this crea-
a
ite oo
oi:
f
<=
\
(
os
Me 5
Sew points of 2 Trim pieces to center
\ *. front of Calot. Measure off 7 inches along
IBY! © top from point of Trim and fold in a 1-
/
pv
pa
Materiats:
et
1
each
Green and Red.
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
84
WHITE HAT, BLUE FEATHERS
Marerits: 2 balls of any color.
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
2 feathers.
1 yard narrow
ribbon.
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
AND
join. 1st rnd: Sc in each ch around (40
sc). 2nd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around. 3rd
to 10th rnds incl: Sc in each sc around.
Brim . . . Starting at inner edge, ch 40,
a
ball
inch pleat from center. Sew in place.
Pamer
IT
BLACK
8th to 11th rnds
SI st in next sc. Break off.
a
\
5
(
}
7
¥
sc around.
incl: Sc in sc to center sc of 3-sc group,
se oe hie e
ey
) a es
ae gm.
3 sc in next sc, sc in each sc around. 12th,
——s«13th and 14th rnds: Scin each sc around.
eae
we
| os
YEG
AC
1st rnd: Sc in each ch around. 2nd rnd:
2 scin each sc around. 3rd to 6th rnds incl:
Sc in each sc around. 7th rnd: 3 sc in next
sc, sc in each
re
eee
eee
HAS
i yrs
;
of
Black,
At end of 10th rnd, sl st in next 2 sts and
break off.
5
A
e: sane
e
& eo
oes ty
see
f ‘ we a)
SBR
ANS
OY
2 re
a
tN
oy
Smart crocheted pancake
s i
betel
ite
Ne
a7, ips
A é a.
m
d eee
5)
tee
Gielen
pieces do the trick.
)
=/\
{
ee oe.
.
2
10
sc
in
each
each
sc
:
fuses
de, ch
around,
around,
2nd
3rd
4th
rnd;
1, Repeat
rnd:
rnd:
Sc
Ch
4,
from
*
1. Repeat from * around,
Join last
ch-1 to 3rd ch of ch-4. 9th rnd: Sc in same
place as sl st, * sc in next sp, sc in next
dc. Repeat
rnds
Piece
sc
around.
around. Join last ch-1 to 3rd ch of ch-4,
5th to 8th rnds incl; Ch 4, * de in next
eZ)
Back
ch
sc in each
* de in next sc, ch
rE
hE
g
st,
.. . Ch 40. Join. 1st rnd:
incl:
from
Se
* around,
in each
10th
sc around,
to 13th
At
the
end of the last rnd sl st in next 2 sc and
Sc in each ch around. Join. 2nd rnd: * 2
sc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from *
break
around. 3rd to 6th rnds incl: Sc in each sc
around. At end of 6th rnd sl st in next 2.
Black) . . . Starting at center, ch 22. {st
rnd: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each
sts and
ch across,
break off.
Place Brim over Back Piece and sew
in place, Sew feathers to center top. Make
3 small bows
a
os
=~
Ss i:
“ie
BR Bie
—R
(oe
MW
a
SP
\
=
1
3 sc in last ch. Working along
each ch across
(44 sc). 2nd rnd;
(2 sc in
)
Fi
a ef
Po. ae
(ae)
——)
x ea
both
piece 2 inches
\
)
yy
thicknesses,
S220,
ings add a dressmaker touch to
*
Se
Fats, They canbe
used effectively
“. on large or small
jis
% i
J
2a eats Gh
ieee —__
> 50
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
Crown ... With Yellow, ch 17 join.
place
as
sl
pbrims.
=< ip
(Qi
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
join
Crocheted edg-
#5
Re
2 aL
Bese
H
“i - 5 |
=
“as
ball of Black.
same
of Black
ew
EG
DUTCH CAP
Marteruts: 2 balls of Yellow and 1
1, sc in
one end
working through
o
with
a row of sc.
A.
.
~
over Yellow piece. Pin one long edge of
Front Piece across front of Crown and,
be worn with suits or street dresses.
Ch
and
other side of starting chain, make sc in
off. Sew
Variation of the Dutch hat with a two
colored brim. The smart lattice work crown
is very new and easy to crochet. This hat can
1st rnd:
Yellow
next 12 sc, sc in each of the next 19 sc)
twice (86 sc). 5th, 6th and 7th rnds: Sc
in each sc around. SI st in next sc. Break
a
:
2g ed
fh,
Ki
1
Bis,
“en
DSF
ifs
(Make
next 19 sc) twice. 3rd rnd: (2 sc in each
ae next ae sc in each of the next 19
sc) twice. 4th rnd: (2 sc in each of the
&
Ba
&
bs
Piece
each of the next 3 sc, sc in each of the
3 aay hf ane
3 ag ty] Sx
Se
i)
Front
with ribbon and sew to
bottom of feathers.
y
a
Set
off.
a
eo,
QW
f3
Ys
2) wy
F
\
85
ak:
EDGINGS
ee
(A) Mareruts: 1 ball of any color.
23° Wael ("We
Starting at short end, ch 14.
De in 8th ch from oo
Ist row:
ch 2, ae 2 a
dc in next
s
ap:
3
G
aid
i
arts
Ww
ae
;
3 dc, ch 2, 3 ze Ch 7, turn. 2nd row:
In ch-2 sp make 3 de, ch 2, 3 de, skip 3
dc, dc in next de, ch.2,
3
yO
ic in next
ch, skip 2 ch, in next ch make
eee
eee
\2 aeeeae
Ef FS ({
“=
Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
:
f
de, ch
Bi.
2, de in 3rd st of turning ch. Ch 5, turn.
eee
es
your clothes. Trim
Je
eas with
Yh
poe
flowers,
es Bi
3rd row: De in next de, ch 2, de in next
dc, in next ch-2 sp make 3 de, ch 2, 3 de.
Ch 7, turn. Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows
next st of cross st, ch 2, dc in next st of
alternately for length desired. Break of.
(B) Mareriats: 1 ball of any color.
cross st, dc in next de, ch 2. Repeat from *
across, ending with dc in last de. Ch 7.
Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
Starting
at inner
edge,
turn. Repeat the 2nd and
make
a
chain
desired length. 1st row: Dc in 5th ch from
hook.
* skip
:
lich: de firext chich
O1dc
Piece measures desired
3rd rows until
length.
Break
off,
Cut ribbon into lengths for bows and tie
at equal distances
in same ch. Repeat from * across. Ch 1,
IRISH
apart on edging.
ROSE
HATPIN
turn. 2nd row: Sl st in 1st sp, ch 7, picot~
to make a picot, make asl st in 3rd ch from
hook—ch
1, de in 1st sp, * dc in next sp,
y. Sagar
aes
from * across. Ch
Cne
row once more.
(C)
Break off.
Mareruts:
in 9th
ch
from
1 ball of any color.
hook,
hon
ss
: Siti
.
with
Yellow,
ch. 3, join. 1st rnd: 6 sc in ring. 2nd rnd:
Steel Crochet Hook No. 7.
Ribbon for bows.
Starting at short end, ch 22.
De
the 2nd
Bree of
cea
ch 4, picot, ch 1, dc in same sp. Repeat
1, turn. Repeat
1 ball of White,
de
2 sc in each sc around. 3rd rnd: * Sc in
{st row:
in next
ch,
next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from *
around (18 sc). 4th rnd: Sc in each sc
around. Repeat this md until piece is as
deep as top of
pin. Next
rd:
* Draw
up
* ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in each of the next2
@ loop in next 2 sc, thread over and draw
ch. Repeat from * across. Ch 7, turn. 2nd
row: Dec in 1st dc, * thread over twice:
eater up a loop in next dc. thread over
through all loops on hook—a dec. Repeat
from * around. Stick pin through bottom.
Continue to decrease in each st around
and draw through 2 loops, thread over,
skip 2 ch, draw up a loop in next de,
(thread
over and draw through
2 loops)
es
ha
until piece
Frowsr
Mee
Qnd rnd: -*
ch, de in next de. Repeat
half de, sc. 4th rnd: Working
is closed. Break off.
:
Pe a
—
vit
a
s : ee
ae sc.
Ch 3, skip
1 sci sc in next
Dee Creat
cc EL CeBLer Olicrose-—a ” Repeat ‘from * around @(3) loops). 3rd.
cross st made — dc in next de, ch 2, skip 2 pnd: In each loop make sc, half de, 3 de,
from
* across.
ending with a dc in 3rd st of turning ch.
Ch 5, turn. 3rd row: * Dcin next dc, dcin
86
from back
of last rnd, * sc in next sc skipped on 2nd
md, ch 4. Repeat from * around. 5th rnd:
Sigs
BRIS
ee
So
ees eae
ee
ey
SN rey ee Teer
ABBREVIATIONS FOR
CROCHET
ane
fe Wide
Somtn 0
Double Crochet
ues
aes
2
wrong
sides
together
one
side.
Stitch
around
pin
to
FOUR LEAF CLOVER HAT PIN
Ine es ore eae
Dison
wii Layee
Mareruts: 1 ball of Green.
Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.
the
instructions
following the asterisk as many more times
as specified, in addition to the original.
Repeat instructions in parentheses as
as specified.
the
keep pin in place.
wr nnectaatoreanss
rie A PLCRUIBE VG
times
Holding
through
St(s)........-...-.. Stitch (es)
* (asterisk) ......... Repeat
Join with a sl st in Ist sc. Break
and working through both thicknesses,
sew pieces together at edges, inserting pin
Space
a
around.
off.
free
Ereble
SI abe
ee eee Slip Stitch
many
a
Single Crochet
[cee
DN Cee
a
es
Half de...........Half Double Crochet
Sp
sare Me
For
example:
“(Ch 5, sc in next sc) 5 times” means to
make all that in parentheses 5 times in all.
ree Pin.
k
:
LOVER: (Ma £ 2) tae Starting Bt cen:
ter,
ch 2. Ist rnd: 6 sc in 2nd ch from
hook. Qnd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around,
2
sc in first sc of next rnd (13 sc).
Lear...
next
3
sc.
1st row:
Ch
1,
turn.
Sc in each of the
2nd
row:
2
sc
in
first sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Ch 1,
turn. 3rd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1,
In each loop make sc, half de, 5 de, half
'€™™- 4th row: Draw up a loop in the next
dc, sc. 6th rnd: * Ch 5, sc between next
9D ge. Repeat from * around. 7th rnd: In
2 sc, thread over and draw through all
loops on hook—a dec. Sc in next sc, dec 1
each loop make sc, half de, 2 de, 3tr,2dc,
°° in next 2 sc. Ch
1, turn. 5th row: Draw
half de, sc. SI st in Ist sc. Break off. Stick ¥P loop in each of the next 5 sc, thread
pin through center of Flower
curely an pla ce
BLUE
SQUARE
HAT
and
sew se-
PIN
©V& draw through all loops on hook, sc
in each st along side edge of Leaf. Repeat
Ist to 5th rows incl until 4 leaves in all
are made.
Stem
Marterits: 1 ball of Blue.
Steel Crochet Hook No. 6.
Hat Pin.
Square (Make
ter, ch 3, join.
rd:
2)...
1st rnd:
* Sc in next
Starting
(1 sc remains).
... 1st row: 2 sc in remaining sc.
Ch 1, turn. 2nd and 3rd rows: Sc in each
sc across. Ch 1, turn. Break off on 1st
at cen-
8 sc in ring. 2nd
sc, 3 sc in next sc. Re-
Clover. Do not break off on 2nd Clover.
Holding the 2 pieces, wrong sides together
and
make
working
a row
through
both
thicknesses,
of sc all around
outer edges,
peat from * around. 3rd to 6th rnds incl:
inserting pin between the 2 pieces. Break
* Sc in each sc to center sc of 3-sc group,
3 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around.
off, leaving a 12-inch length of thread.
Stitch around head of pin to keep pin in
7thrnd:
* Scin next sc, ch 3. Repeat from *
place.
87
a
isa
~~
B)
oy
Besser
a
xs
eae
NYS
eS
et
f—
ios.
-
“ y
pee cay)
—ltC~C SS
you
\
£:
SO
ee
Bec: Loy
UAWee
ee
Re.
Veet
ON,
HAT
aa
gia
eee
a
site the
IAS
4 sc already
joined.
Sew
flowers
in place.
ECRU SAILOR, 2 RED ROSES TRIM
ae
Front Piece ve Starting at center, ch
39.
SG
Front Piece to 4 sc of Back Circle oppo-
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
m
aw
oe
of the gay 90's, is achieved with the double
brim.
2 balls of White.
1st rnd: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc
in each ch across, 3 sc in last ch, working
along other side of starting chain make sc
Marteruts: 2 balls of White or Ecru.
Hories Crochet Hock«INexa:
2 yards millinery wire.
OU
veEes,
4
in each ch across (78 sc). 2nd rnd: (2 sc in
next 3 sc, sc in each of the next 36 sc)
twice. 3rd rnd: (2 sc in each of the next 6
sc, sc in each of the next 36 sc) twice. 4th
rnd: (2 sc in each of the next 12 sc, scin
each of the next 36 sc) twice (120 sc).
5th, 6th and 7th rnds: Sc in each sc
around. 8th rnd: Sc in each of the next 39
sc, (draw upa loop in each of the next
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
Crown . . . Starting at center ch 10.
Join. 1st rnd: Ch 4, * de in next ch, ch 1.
Repeat from * around. Join last ch-1 to
3rd ch of ch-4 (10 sps). 2nd rnd: Ch 4,
dc in same place as sl st, * ch 1, in next
de make dc, ch 1 and de. Repeat from *
around. Join last ch-1 to 3rd ch of ch-4
(20 sps). 3rd rnd: Sc in same place as
2
sl st, * sc in next ch-1
sp, sc in next de.
Repeat
(40 sc). 4th rnd:
sc,
thread
over
loops on hook)
and
draw
through
all
3 times—center back—~sc
in each sc around. 9th rnd: Sc in each sc
around. SI st in next sc. Break off.
Back Circe (Make 2)... Starting at
center, ch 5. Join. fst rnd: 12 sc in ring.
Qnd rnd: 2 sc in each sc around. 3rd, 4th
and 5th rnds: Sc in each sc around. SI st
in next sc. Break off. Holding the 2 Back
Circles together and working through both
thicknesses, join across 4 sc of the Circles.
Count off 16 sts on each side of center
back
st
through
88
and
both
mark
with
thicknesses,
pins;
join
from
* around
Sc in each sc around. 5thrnd: * 2 scinnext
sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around
(60 sc). 6th, 7th and 8th rnds: Sc in each
sc around. Cut a piece of wire 20 inches
long. Overlap edges to form a circle 6
inches in diameter
9th rnd: Holding
and working over
make sc in each sc
working over wire
and tie ends securely.
wire at top of last md
it in order to conceal it,
around. 10th rnd: Sill
make sc between sc of
working
previous rnd. 11th to 16th rnds incl: Sc in
4
each
sc
of
sc around.
4
Bie
This clever cotton crochet: hat, reminiscent
can be worked up in a jiffy. Two circular
motifs joined in back help it to fit snugly.
HALF
ZZ
Ny
A
WHITE
=
a (Rr
:
Materuts:
D3
=
;
\
Crocheted in washable cotton this half hat
a»
(as
™®
\
a
ee
“A
fo
~~
Bey
KS
(
a
ri
A
—
2
Je :
ae
Brim ... Ist an Chet; ae
*
sc in next sc. Repeat from * around. 2:
rnd:
* Sc in next sc, 2 sc in ch-1
peat from * around.
SS
we
sp. Re-
3rd to 7th rnds incl:
..°% aa
peas
Sc in each sc around. 8th rnd: Overlap a
piece
of wire
to measure
8%
inches
in
it at top of previous rnd and working over
it in order to conceal it, make sc in each
||,
Fruit... Starting at inner edge, ch 61.
e
A,
F bag
f,
4
\
+
3 aN
es
Join. 1st rnd: Ch 4, * de in next ch, ch 1.
Repeat from * around. Join last ch-1 to
Here's a eather crochet
5
ier ous
3rd ch of ch-4, 2nd, 3rd and 4th rnds: Ch
4, * dc in next de, ch 1. Repeat from *
body.
Crochet
* on
colors
ae
rs | igs
EVE
NNR
ea
2
M
f
We
=
)
\%
=
J
x
and Frill on each
side
long. Do not break off but adjust to head-
i
‘
size.
Break off and sew to wrong side of
ie
YELLOW BAG
Marerits: 6 balls of Yellow.
Bone Crochet Hook No. 6.
co
backed.
venchict
lining
material
and
at short
end,
ch
Gusset
measures
anp
Srrap
11
3
J:
tneheky
2 a
‘
“ 1 st. Work straight for
mie
ee
eee the
ender
inches.
va :
Mark
with
eee eh
a pin to indi-
cate end of Gusset. Work straight for
2% inches. Break off. Pin Gusset from
pin mark to pin mark around short ends
and one long side. Working through both
35.
1st row:
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch
across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in each sc
across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat the 2nd row
until piece
Break off.
ae
once more (10 sc). Work straight for 12
. eens
inches.
Dec 1 st at both ends of the next
row—to dec, work off 2 sts as 1 st. Work
straight for 5 inches and then repeat the
or 3’
Use 4 Threads Throughout.
Starting
‘ z . Maes
aes ae ae
Ie.
—
hes
;
Back Strap... Make a chain 15 inches
inches
in
. . . Starting
all.
at
pee = ch 7. a oe Sc in o ch from
ook and in each ch across.
1, turn.
Qnd row: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
Repeat the 2nd row until piece measures
31 inches. Mark with a pin to indicate end
of Strap. Continue as before until piece
measures 31/2 inches from pin mark. Inc 1
st at both ends of the next row—to inc
thicknesses,
join
with
in
Yaw
eas
ot: aon +
over top of Brim and tack in place. Sew a
Brim
it
to go
4 Raa
tp
Asai
around. Join and break off. Place Frill
vk between
of
hat.
‘ It
geal eitnclide + gue it
a
Be
sy
I ||)
cae
;
J
a shoulder
ia,
a
5 pe
FBS?
with
strap for up-to-the-
“¥
VI
SI
st in next 2 sts and break off.
E
A
sc around. 9th rnd: Still working over wire,
sc of previous rd.
;
4
eet
oe
sc between
cn
li
7
diameter and tie ends securely. Holding
make
\
a
row
of
sc
all
around. Sew buckle to short end.
Back Strap... Starting at short end,
ch 6. 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and
jin each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc
in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat the
2nd row until piece measures 15/2 inches
in all. Break off. Sew piece across center
back of Bag for 7 inches.
Front Strap... Same as Back Strap,
making piece 7 inches long. Break off. Sew
buckle to one end. Sew piece across center front to within 2 inches of buckle.
Cut buckram and lining material and
sew into place.
89
wie
COLLEGE
WRAY
OF
AGRICUL TS:
UNIVERSITY OF WiSCORS
———
MARIBOR
INDEX
—
Abbreviations, crochet .........._
87
Appliqués
48-51
felt feathers__50-51
flower and leaf...
49
fuicfele
4g
French-room
illustrated
i
49-50
..............49-50
woultelt ac
a hG40
Back bows —...__.52-53
Bagheera
be
_.. 29
Beas:
eco sheee a
89
eGR
ac aS. 9a'9y
Pellachosipouch
23.27
ea ee
overarm
pouch...
23
Balance, rule of.
Hendemnss) 22
Ne
Sandee
oe.
445
AS AS
es
Braids,
straW.-eccernnnnnne—.
Breton:
brim, gluing...
iE aaaae
=a a
blocked
ne os
Ree
eve
yg
e
8
ap
Binding, ribbon.13, 29-30
‘.
Ts
F
Bird-cage
veiling,
illustrated...
Black hat, crocheted...
45
83
Block:
= peers
ee
cien
:
using
Blocked beret,
eG
3
-
;
1-37
illustrated... 18
Blocked feline tt
illustrated
Blocking hats...
Molec.
fancy tips
illustrated
lea
bwie
19
S197
esjgg
32-34
—__________32-34
straw —__________34-37
Blue square hatpin, crocheted. 86
Bodies:
wae
OLE een
F9
BUEAW nner
1B
Bonnets, Dutch_.___20-22
Tele -illnsteated 2
=. 20!
Bowler;.ilustrated.22 020230) 2)
Bowe ee
SESS
back Pinan
SESS
aliuatrated j220-8)
6
materisie =o
tt
pibbon Ws Sao
eee
gg
Bowstrimmed
snoods,
ilostrated 2
53
Braided bandeau
43
.,
90
etenegy
i:
«Brim block.______._.._
Brimmed
ee
gag
ee eae
_ 54
er sg’ <6
2 oersa
. &4 i
agree
eS
te
hat,
COTW
White con)
84
BB
nen eeneennnnnne
BBBY
epee
‘
illustrated...
B3BS
Crowns:
blocking
TS,
Dbriniss 2S
ar
eS
fancy 222 eee
fele 2s
8136
illustrated —___.32-37
flat COVETiN geen BOT,
foundations
64-69.
Shallow (No. 2) ceconcnen- 67-69
six-section (No. 1).........-..64-67
frame, covering.__..._____.73-74
eninge
ee
eS
conc
S1ze OF
mine voll Street
illnsated |.
Casa
ioe
asual
88
85
turban, red.
tips ..
enh
2
ss
Built-up foundations...
i
SAMO,
34
body $ OD eed
TAB
trimming for_________._
58
Brims:
back contour line...
8
locking
087
bumper, veiling for.......45-46
curved, covering.....__.-._
11.
gown)
34.37
A oo
glning ooo ts
ETD
Narge sos
a
ay
off-the-face
wots tt ee AE STR:
ribbon, illustrated...
=«13
alfbets
85
PAM een
hats:
aon 28, 30,ot
tee
18
locking ——____34.37
it
Cuffed pillbox, rae
8
am CE ee
a a
urvette! Son
Doll
hat:
ee
Double-loop
Down brim
eae.
bow...
52
en 3437
Chiffon: jersey
Chin veil.
19
Dutch
bonnet oeeeeeeeeeneennen—-20-22
illustrated
4, 84
46
Dutch
Classic styles een
Cleaming hat8.ccccccceerneen-
2
61
ee
oe
Clip, plastic, illustrated...
58
E
Cloche, crocheted, illustrated...
Collar
Loe
82
a re
Eyelines
Combinations ..._..
Contour, Rule of..__=Ss
29
5
17.1R 31-04 | Circling ribbon cos
Blocked frame, illustrated... 19
30.
Blocked linings...
Blocked SIE AWS
enn
437
Dutehy cap. 22
half-hat, white...
pancake, illustrated.
frame, illustrated __..71, 72, 74
Beau-Catcher,
illustrated..mtn0n52
BMAD
B
fig
Hat
3
TRG) 7s DUCRTAM
necuee
Roc
19
oust eox pouch;
13 0
eg
ae
heted
84
ene
epee
Lo
oe
a
a as
Eg a ey ee
4.000
ee
bag—---20-21jllustrated
’
=
%
67
99.86
Fancy tips, blocking...........32-34
illustrated ___33-34
Contour lines...
7-8 _—- Feathers, appliquéed...___50-51
Cotton felt§ccccceeeeeeeenenee 17
Felt bodies.o———-----_-._
17
~ Covered frames__...........-.10-74__
Felt bonnets, illustrated....Wm'|20
remaking
*=, It feath:
50-51
Covered hat pins eee ATAB
a - iy
crocheted
86-87
ie ne
31-34
Crinoline.
*
reblocking (2-2 (os
60
Crochet 2
abbreviations en
bag, seller
ee
edgings
hhatpine, 20
blue
square...
feumicatclener ee
Trish
Rose
anata Clink
ie ene
renovating —.__.-___.5
9-60
8
86
Felt hoods.
Fel
i
87
rene SS
ea
86-87
gy
ecceenn-n--86-87
hate:
lack
BSB
87
ag.
felts ————__-_______-__--16-18
Shar
PA
eeTAN
handerchief-_2
os ss
AB
i
Wool joss
ocenss ae
1?
INDEX — Continued
Pelt ‘trims 002
ae 51
Flat crown, covering.......73-74
Jat
fell
Flat
fe]
ern
T
Flower-trimmed snood,
AUaatra ted pees
ee
Forward hats:
fancy tips for...
OS)
back contour line...
8
poacsise Poe.
OTA
aouhecdcise eeLg
qeetee ee
,
built-up...
pe
ee
shallow
(No. 2).
54
61-69
illustrated
six-section
68,69
(No. 1) .......64-67
Sn
illustrated
Fouclestcl
F
a
rame
os
31
eg
=n
nee
remaking...
wiring
a
Frames, covering.
remakingoi. 250006
55
at
Frames,
homemade
Frames,
ready-made
Fruit
See
Gos
ips
Oe
te a
appliqués
eating
BATE
Lillian Russell hats.
5
for felts’
r
Cy
velvet...
19
Material hats________10-79
covering frames___70.74, 77-19
making frames ......75-77
pene waGne
i
oan
60
cop ate git
Materials, millimery oe
en-- 16-20
classification of....._---.-_
16
CURING
felts
oe
millinery
yard
59
,
ae
ay =:
Grosgrain ribbon! 1213
eee
16.18
goods.._.19.20
BEEAWS neem 18-19
‘Milan: straw.
19
Millinery glues
1-12"
Millinery needles—
13.
Millinery thread.
13
Millinery yard goods............19-20
WAH ee
Mushroom bri im, g! toing 8.
et silhouette
Natural
11
29-30
12
5
Needles SS
binding with....._.__.....29-30
Nonheadsize hats._____._.2, 3,6
Half-bonnet, Dutch..........40-41
Off-the-face hats__35-39
Half-hats
40-4] «~:~ Overarm pouch bag.
23
crocheted
87
Handkerchief, felt .................. 17
Handmade Dutch bonnet......20-22
Batbands= nt
13
pres
4
1074:
crocheted
83-84
—___62-63
and
renovating..59-63
nnn 6263
cleaning 2
eis
23, 79-81
so ag~SsCMllilimery wire____________
Eas eae
PP Re Laue
Gia ea
Remaking
5
2se
chart
AS
6]
4.55
Mea
turban,
42
‘
ae
52522 sehen
ee
6]
8G
beans
F
bandeaus.
Moline 2
AO
Material bows_____5152
geet SSE
fe
ane
Remake
hat
19
BE
ohana
Red
4S
illustrated _
eS
pe
“Reblocking) =
Lyons
ferw hatese062.
adalah
ideas for trim...
5657
snood
es
Linings
.................._
Fuchroom:
covering
Iron
Jersey
Ks
‘of bate
Irish Rose hatpin....................86-87
71,72
"275-79
Prices
Headsize ribbon..______.12, 30-31
Hoods) =
46.
beard
——
Pressing veils
6 Resay ; made frames crag
”
-cc0--.10-14
Pressing
gs
Bat
Frames, blocked, illustrated... 19
fealty
=?
tine ok
Lines,
29.30
veil for: coe Se
Headsize, measuring......._.—«‘14
Headsize hats’
hood
for —_.______.._
11
illustrated
8, 13, 46
Pak hat, crocheted...
82
opm
Pompadour hat styles...
4
Preblocked shapes 17-18
SS
a
sovered a
erocnete
See
Hats, reasons for wearing_.8, 79-81
2
headsize ribbon
dilustrated
<2
31,
a
—ee
aman
32-34
eS
3
Pillbox:....
6 =
eee
Diustrated <2
Sart ——
67
hatni
91-37.
eYeline on —_..__._SaNiey ee
ee
Flower and leaf appliqués... 49
Flowers, how t0 8€Woececcccccocnn-44-45
x
Foundation,
Hat. blocks: 619-14,
Pancake ist, illwiraied 0
$57
Panama straw, blocked...
Pattern beret, illustrated...
Peterebam (2
See
19
18
19.
|
paar aie cacemenines
ee ge
ee ee On.
wool felts.2
0
;
Ribbon:
binding ___13,
29.30
bows ~——-------—._
Ug
ae
grosgrain
OC
nr aa
82
12, 30.31
3
saving ——___.__-___.
59
trimming 200 oo
Ribbon
brim.
ill
ibbon’
brim,
8
illustrated =~
Round crown, covering.___
Ruffle veil.
Eyeline =)
74
45
Rule of Balance...
Rule of Contours
04
Rule of
Sailore
18
45
ae
5
3, 71-73
crocheted —_.____
88.89
Sewing
machine
«4
Shako, illustrated _________
Shallow crown:
covering A
en
Mire
ae
3
tS
—————
0
ee
jouettes ——____._.5, 7-8, 79-81
oslo
DOW nnn
52
—
oes
ema ee
foundation ior Le oe
aay
lining for (2222
io
30)
Sixing co ee eeeets at
91
INDEX
— Continued
Bkieting ore
17
sense, developing...
silhouettes —__..______
79-81
Suede jersey.._.
19
bow-trimmed ............._ 53
flower-trimmed —W
55
Steam iron.
ee
Stearn
thei
1415
Supplies, millinery.
ened O15,
Duekram? 2
0
alike,
crinoline
grosgrain ribbon 11-12
La
Steam-pressing
Straight-edged ribbon
Saraw: bodies
es. un
Straw h00ds
hat block
5
12
8
errr
nnn
Straws, blocked, illustrated...
Straw hats:
ape
millinery
becoming
GMMR
eyelines
BAG Dioeks)
hat lines
18
pressing board...
19
sewing machine.
Ming
Rule
Rule
mp
AT
SESS
malin te. ser cae
eS
et
bho,
ss
ene chat SPRcueeeapER) i=
Eg
eile
A ag
Tubing
2
Tubing
turner,
eae
illustrated... 43
thal ecole a
ABS
5
bandeaus .
42-49
Nowe en
ot
i
a een Re
brimmed hats...
58
Basten
detachable, illustrated...
how to sews
pillbox ae eteenen
pressing |
aa
46
AS 46
SAG
a
eh
Velvet, lyons
hat
ee
e
19
Velyots i. 7 bit
9 20)
Velvet snood hatenn54-55
Visor Bats occ,
13
!:
hat, crocheted...................84-85
i ore) Re
ee
10
Wire, millinery.____..
ll
WALI ween
IBD
felt eee ASSES Wool felts as
7-8
5
flowers,
French-room
ial
AS
effects.__54-58
appliqués
beage\s
48D
ee, oe
ea
COL
\
ce \
2]
:x
feo
S3
Y
|
LN
oO
(i
Re:3
'
cS
g90347b 9174
b89034769174a
3
13
a
BB) SRC Yn
Trimmings —___5, 14, 42-58
Bok
GS
Si
appliqués
Helene ok
fruit, illustrated ...-58
Retping?
ideas AOR aie pa wet
15 + Veils —__.__
45.46
chin _..
14
Swagger hat, illustrated...
Thread, millinery......
4-5
of Contour...
of Eyelineww.
1
A
steam pad AS
steam-pressing ..........._
15
Cirpad’ coca
ey! ea tg
8-9
3D
3
Rule of Balance..___.
= 91-49)":
millinery Wire.
ecco
6.7
2.3, 4-5, 79-81
hats, reasons for wearing...
headsize hats...
nonheadsize hats...
glue.......
Te rrr
hats__.79-81
eS ing
5.7
2
gg
Tieng
Ble,
Blocking 22.)34.37
remaking ...___.____60-61
trimming for._____.._.5
7-58
Straws, kinds of
19
Style in millinery____.1-9, 79-81
>
1
Snood hats 06 eas
Snoods:
;
7
oo
c
3
PICANTO ES
A
=3):
t
i
i
ae
aoe
tae at
SE NGS
es Fe
;r
ras
aa
ig
MEMS
ee
CEA
SNe
In LU meme ere
ae
at
Uae My
ae
RNaSe ae
ToS LU
ae Be Hermie
2 ees
RR
GRATE
nn
a
ee
RaN ee
ee
a
OE
@
i
Lys
Ee
:
a
ey
NOMENA
ary
Seek
HRI
wid
SearsSHA ian
AL eee
A
SESE
uaeps
eM4 estes
A
a
ji
:
a)
he
ea
CE
tevaranny
ee
a ee
Tee
ae
aE
ON
Neen
A
ie ne
«INC Nie aR
SEs
Paka tec Nase
ih te RIO
i Saha
ee
a
ty ART
eae
SAAS
PRIS
Lie ae | TaD
a
: Ve
SAC AAR DREN
EL
ate
eee
Ra
UV
a
Se
2
La Ae
ABT
et
y
an
Linea
a
Nn ae
ee
Os Rae
an
io : vive
eid oe
a
oe
Bi Aleen
AAS an
e ee a
UU Se
GL
a
mie
Oe ae
CU
sett ca a heea
RONAN
Ce a
ra
Asa
ay AEE Ra
RESTS esa
Sy
ee
a
aa
SE
et a
SR
nae ea
ae
nfGc
Rs
ns
a
a
Oe
ey
re aes
ee
ORS
Me ers Fea CRVee
ORRIN
Sea
a
ae Ha
Say ae Ree
aa
ADL cnr Ui gus ea ben
es
TINE
as
ld SIT
Tee
a
SSN
Sen
ei
Mi
a
Ae
NG
IRL
SUDAPTE bal SNe SNE
een
TRE
ae
Nie
ean
DU i
ae
a
eee
AC ean a Aa
Dad Se
ae
oe
ECR
STN
Rec
WGN
Nn asl Caan
ee
Re
a) ea ae mina Gels
cathe
PN TAM
EOSata
ABI
aloo
Bed
Ce
Pe
a a
a
NPD
te
a
oe
Ean a
ie NUN
0
;
ag
a aka SR
i OUR
Osis UID
(i
cet
NS
ON
Y
i»
GIN
j
CB
Pai
i
en e vane
R eee
A
St aR
See
cg
anes!
ah@
ig
Bet
rN Ua Rs Re
Dea ARAM
Ay ie odan eae
Acan
aN Dc
ae
ee
te
ee
eee al
eiBO Bees
Sra RO
aS
a
ty Waive WE
a aga a a
ek
DSS
A ES
Da
a eee a
ane:
Oe
ae oo
Ch aenave
Ce Note
AR Tera
cet Gul oii A ak cE
x
RS
SUN a Oa
RN aul ce
fi Mas
Ae
NG
ne: He
PEON Si
en
1
see STR GES Me RE
an
Os
Nba i
ty Muara
TSRep Pe
ey
ot ccs iT
RUUMIUTS
ye
a
(1 DOMEN + CTRORGIS
tae
asie VARESE
MeTie aky ay cseee
aa Rese
PUY
vats eee
ae
yg eacct aah
POTENT Be
VSO
SOE
‘
rae aEeC NMA REYnie
aio taheeas
piehscling star p
AN
ON ile
ce
Bons Cenk
a
ait
ae
Neue UALR
i
;
ree
a ea
ey
ae COL
ae a NESE
seb Un
ngaas cuikar aan
aliasUA art Tee ay (OORT
ON a
NES gat
om ra
i
SGD
RIG
MH atk
yig
Neds
AUER
ae
alae
aati sh ‘ah
k
Si EAA UA
TS Dah Penis NURS sre) aneFA
By
ee aes
ea
Ae
se
AvEEES ee
(LN
RM
CO
eee
COP
IVS CUSSera
RR TSG alae SEL
ea
CO OE
Pain ke Sci
ee
Ce
ea
ee
SAA
Eb
ee MMM
URL ORRIN
RiM
(HUGE Ii eae
acyl pio? WH
OUR
emnoileeAyNicaea
his Geinuich
eGR aU
is SP
tics
Wa
DUM
TT
a eo
Se
EOig
OP
TNE
Te eee Ue ar
eee
Pais
Ua
‘ cnn
PULty
ane PASC
Ma
Te ET
aA aR ae
ere
ih
SAE
BAR PAE
Page REG asLOC
f HTK AT ANE ed AMEN
TE SDS
SA hi
Aaa
RAL
UR
TONE IS GSAT
ANS eae
TA
a
AN SE ANA
SER
ESS
a
cit
ee
ONFCC StU ean aa aD
Ce) Sa
ae ei
peas
eMnGE yatta
ened
NIRS
ae
eR
ei Reae
Rina,
NREa
Lae
Ee Oe
od
ae
eR Gg
Heb
cil
Ce
Ua
ceaeS Ramee
Ra ean
rae
Sb
PoP GOH
CaM
ES
Ae
i
; a
aA
Re
NERY E Se aati
Se
eee |
is
BME Hs
PANE
Or
ch
SARE
PTAA
IN WANE
CU
TR
ee
RR
ee
Ce
f
(
UN
RRO
NRRL TY
a
Re
"3
:
J IVINS irae Se eeR NG LST Rane gr ee kn ae
MERE
A
di ccici tu! ae Oa
y
POSSif
.
SM
MOU
AO
;
tN
‘
ED UaMiG
[CRE
Bikatta
7
teaeat
he
i
nteh Bie
ME
BP CNA ASIC
LN
Zie
ee
sa
;
i
Be
CON
COE
ES ae
J
Ae)
j
:
28 ;
SU Ra Memes pas Tne
th00 AneSNARE AW
‘
ne
mes
ne
VCs
i
tga
"
Grigg
cei
sa
pe
i Pe
vedere
Sa
Ga ET
ee
fe
:
h
{
SAAC
E
ea
:
nee
ag
Tasha Paria MOR AME Ca
ene tes] a Ni
ea
eae
:
1h ae
Miah
} aN eae
SLi
C(t
Pee
OO
tishaMe
OU,
atte
GOEAt) Ue
;
Penn i
(hol Anes
Aan tl
AN pies SAP
NTE
as
PG MON? U8 ALA aa a
;
Sige
Ma Age
Hany
te gs
i
f
cee
noe
4
i
Re
ye
i
toa.
Ve
ie
ule AHO
2
AARNE NAW Ie
:
ihe NR
aay
tg ihlo MD aR A Ba
Pra
arulthty
enti
Ieagea gen TCA
He
‘ae
ot
METIS.) BT
3
4
Heian
lf
aie
ii
"
NE
eee
Oc
NG oes ee
eA Ne
teas in ae ean
i
a a
UMM MaseNtensae!
tie
MS)
Ge
cAlt
one Ae
ae
nae Snag
Rees
ti thy Veet
4
RCntlapman
EPL Uh) 18s aa
Clostel
i eek
“ae
:
Tae
Say Gaga
Re
aI RR Rete)
Shih
ne nemo ep
i, Sea
AYN
aN
AUT OSU
en
ae TG Rar
lati
RE he
Huei
her rainaER
CU
Ape
urna we
ane
cua)Vis Re? hag De Riu
(meer
ASV ee? oN
Rae Wha
A
Ren Cty OES
aE OV
CO RaORS
CGR
a DATA, A Pe
RAL
ea
na
VO a ratcnrn aaCaA Ey cAU
POA IRE aan STIR
ULC Uy a ns
PRIM) MeL AUN aLn SONIA rl
ben a
a!
Ry
x uA Pa
ae
ay
Se
ERR
THe
en
a
etarc
2 ARR i a
A
Heer
Vint ae el an Pen ent arth)
at iti holy ep, Dy SRLS a
ea OMT
tea
cae bu Ae
EN Rg
As CR dik (EVA HERPAe uceteyah he
FER
aR ci
nad San
Sha De
aE
INYO AE
PE Hiram OMerMIBS
aT eR He URANO MMR
SS ES
RM
i
ee a eta
MB SAAN
OS URL TaN Nike Ae Bb)
ra se eR
eee ROHSCi
OSE
Rios US ea
Ye
a rN
pee
ensye cath
« EM esr Neeu
eee
aes deeGe hayA AIA
EATRLR Nh
0 SHA
Ih decd eam
dik
ACerS
1 GUS
bean
STE
eh
;
(UR
DSaaNy eS
(i). I Sara
NI Oia San
(31
4
ED
ie
i Us Once
CANE
aegn Lt
Tn
e aedeel Ua ERE AUR
erat ROLY UE
ASeR
OO CEES UNG
i
Pinta
Sant
epee Pee
(CO A EAT ADR TOGA
ACRE LOTS
eee aa ermine oye, UU AU ARI TRAN
ei a
MONE AA
Bae PRE
men tne Neer Aa
ee ny POE OTR VLE en
ne
ie
ASAIN
Wetacauta lme
j
ee
, gf
fs ig
a.
el
|
|
rae
a
TRE
ae
CATT
8 were
=
me
So
W
!
=
ae
-
|
a
|.
Shoat
|
|
R
@)
N
s |
:
below. X fine of TWO CENTS
a
|
|
/
yi
a
Hat
gine
2 % 1083
ge 2088
H
pia
i
; |
ca
;
| |
e
Ce
j
dn
‘
ane
iA
f
Now
elgg
ie
ae
signs
ih
aN!
which
ee, appnque; newer ang ieatdeto choose.
Hand
made
!
fi x
Beg ra
fe
|
4
| a
iy
i
tes
|
i
to make
steam-press and work with straw, fur and velvet.
i
i
A complete remake chart, including examples
Here too are complete Crochet instructions for
enero
a
Exe eet
‘
ie
oe
:
Ni
3
By
&
!
i
5
i
}
i
i
i
A;
| :
:
\;
\e
|
if
i
|)
|)
i
Yes! If you can sew you can easily make the
;
__most intricate hat...if you can merely pin,
then
right away you can make a smart cocktail hat.
|
uJ
;
i
:
8
i
iy
and step by step instructions for re-using trims,
SNe
4
‘
“‘sizing”’ straws, reblocking
and cleaning
.
1
for putting
on veilings, flowers and feathers. How
to make a hat out of flowers and veilings alone.
=
iF
i
build up ready made foundations, cut buckram,
_make tubing, linings, head size ribbons and ban:
deaus. How to block a hat, cut and make a brim,
:
make last year’s favorite hat. Professional rules
ya
ae
i
seven Hats; how to crochet head bands, edgings
felts and
and hat pins plus patterns for expensive-looking _ straws, remaking covered frames and pressing veils
Felt and Material Pouch and Collar Box Bags and
and maline. Instructions for making and covering
.
:
a Crochet Over The Shoulder Bag.
frames, brims, and hard to find foundations. The
And still more!... dozens of exciting trimming —_ importance of hat and hair lines, how to develop
ideas, quick changes to rejuvenate, retrim and rea style, how to use professional millinery equipment.
ah
a
ies
F
flowers
simplifies every step you need to know
these and many more.
Bae Ce
“RY.
from
a
fe
i
For here are complete instructions and patterns _ for a custom made look. Different type bows for
for any hat you want to make—and so easy to fol_different parts of the hat. How to achieve French
low you can’t possibly go wrong. Dutch Bonnets, — Room effects with inexpensive materials. How
to
Calots, Sailors, Jockey and Half hats, Curvettes
and unusual Head Bands, Pill Box and Snood Hats
i
’
‘
..-this beautifully illustrated book takes apart and
oyLen
|
ere
>
Sea.
Co
ieee en
} 3 ie
ye
‘ail
>
ek
A
.
f
Ln
Room”’ creation at little expense.
f a aoe
pe
i sae
Piet
oe!
Page
fed
ei
ae
you can make your own hats— create them
just the way you want them— cach a “French
a
nf
K > al
i x a o ma
S
;i
ane
Bee
a
Eo
}
;
+i
2
rs
f
fa
|
ti
‘coe |_|
i
O
late s
a
:
ee
i
TE
| : Bash
will be charged for each day the book is kept over time.
MAKE
Be
te
gC
|
oo)
bee
Ne ae Renee
This book may be kept
TO
from
ae |
ee 2 aay)
ree
eas
i
ef
iW
rears
re
,
os
Bg
TS
LL
SF
oe eran
-—
Baai
ST
/
a
Mi
Lik
97)
oe } Ra
Hea
{
f
4
1
7
HA
a
4
|
ne
en
!
—_—
;
i
f
i
i
{
f
} GAYLAMOUNT
1 PAMPHLET BINDER 4
>
1
|
#
™
\ ye
Manufactured
by
GAYLORD BROS. Inc.
Syracuse, N.Y.
|
I SS teckton, Calif:
2
u
y
BS
}
yo
3
:
ie
:
A
‘
,
:
em
:
i
'
F
S
io
Alo
¢ ft
}
7
ay
:
f
i
1)
%
{
roa
|
t
mic
‘34
tsar
i
}
‘|
7
.
31
Z
4
a
ANIL
}
:
B
5
OUT
i
Bos
& 21982
o
.
i
i
:
i
!
&
:
|
:
a
;
:
i
‘8
ei
bs
Pi
}
eULL
:
ESE
UF
UNIVERSITY
i
A
OF
F
ee
WiSCORS)
BADIROB
|
|
wu
|
r
e
ae
Notes ee
er
)