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COLLECTOR’S EDITION BEADWORK presents avont Jewelry designs EASY PROJECTS for Perfect / Gifts 1 4 50+ TIPS From Top Jewelry Designers P. 46 _Js 48 BEST PICKS Ж Coolest Bead Products p. 8 Peyote Stitch and more ALL THE STITCHES YOU LOVE! SPECIAL PULL-OUT ^Techniques z Guide DISPLAY UNTIL JANUARY 25.2010 $14.99 II !! Ill I IIII 13 o 48 51 83 8 beadworkmagazine.com
Scheherazade necklace LIZ SMITH Liz created the rich texture in this simple peyote-stitched ribbon by using a mix of triangle seed beads. 41 Favorite Jewelry' Designs
1) RIBBON. Use 6’ of thread to string 5 triangles leaving a 5" tail. Pass back through the third bead to begin flat peyote stitch. Work a strip 4 beads wide for about 8”. making sure the tension of the ribbon remains flexible, not stiff or floppy. Tie the strip in a loose flattened knot near the center (Fig. 1). Fig. 1:.vи the center knot (Fig. 3). When you reach the knot, pass through beads to exit the bottom of the strip on the other side of the knot and repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the other half of the strip. MATERIALS 75 g size 1T triangle beads in assorted bronze finishes 10g bronze size 15 seed beads About 150 assorted 3-4mm accent beads (crystals, pearls, stones, and fire-polished glass) 3 gold 4x12mm biwa pearls 1 gold 12mm focal pearl 5 gold-filled 1 Vi" head pins 4" of gold-filled 28-gauge wire 4” of gold-filled long-and-short chain Gold-filled clasp hook Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Beading needle Scissors Wire cutters Chain- or flat-nose pliers Continue working peyote stitch at each end of the strip for 7%” on either side of the knot. Leave the tail threads for attaching the clasp in Step 6. 2) FRINGE. Embellish the ribbon with picots and fringe: Bottom Loops: Begin a new thread at the knot and pass through the layers of beads to secure the knot with a few stitches; exit the bottom of the strip to one side of the knot. *String 5 size I5°s. skip an edge bead, and pass up through the third bead and down through the fourth. Repeat from * to the end of the strip (Fig. 2). QKQCDGBieGOnt CCOIICGCCCCOB IBWCKJEtOBEBt Fig. 2: •• tv - ><• < Ay .7 th, on Top picot: Pass through the end of the strip to exit the top edge. String 3 size I5°s, *pass under the loop of thread between the next 2 triangles, and back through the last bead strung. String 2 size 15°s and repeat from * for the top edge of the strip back toward Pendant: Pass through the knot beads to exit one of the bottom folds of the knot. String 5 size I5°s, I biwa pearl, I size 15°, the focal pearl, I size 15°. 2 biwa pearls, and 3 size I5°s. Pass back through the 2 biwa pearls. I size 15°, the focal pearl. I size 15°. 1 biwa pearl, and 1 size 15°. String 4 size 15°s and pass through the bottom of the knot (Fig. 4). Pass through the beads several times to reinforce. Fig. 4: Embellished loops: Pass through beads to exit the second bead of the first loop. *Stnng 1 size 15°. 1 accent bead, and 3 size 15°s. Pass back through the FINISHED SIZE: 16” accent bead, the first size 15°. and through the third bead of the loop. String 1 size 15°, I accent bead, and 3 size 15°s. Pass back through the accent bead and the base size 15° bead and through the fourth and fifth beads of the loop. Pass through the first and second beads of the next loop and repeat from * for all the bottom loops (Fig. 5). litlift Fig. 5: 'Acct 3) CLASP. Create the necklace s closure: Clasp chain: Use the tail thread at one end of the strip to string 6 size 15°s. the first link of a 1” piece of chain, and 6 size 15°s. Pass through the end of the strip and the beads just strung several times to secure; trim. Use the tail thread at the other end 14 beadw0rkmaga2ine.com
of the strip to attach a 3" piece of chain. Use 4” of wire to form a wTapped loop that includes the end of the 1" chain; string 1 accent bead and form another wrapped loop that includes the clasp hook (Fig. 6). Fig. 6: Dangles: Use a head pin to string 1 accent bead, then form a wrapped loop that includes the last link of the 3” chain. Repeat to add 4 more dangles to the chain. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and all other beads and findings: Creative Castle, (80S) 499-1377, www.creatrveca5tie.com, or The San Gabriel Bead Co., (626) 447-7753, www .beadcompany.com. Kits. Liz Smith, lizbeadl ©sbcglobal.net, wwwliz5mithde5ign5.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 15
necklace LESLEE FRUMIN Leslee’sfashion-conscious sister requested OLltt 1П* ОП tllC FltZ this necklace of pearls and semiprecious ± stones. She gets tons of compliments on the piece, but doesn’t reveal her source ... or the fact that her source made it up in a day TECHNIQUE :: right-angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 16 beadworkmagazine.com
1) RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE. Work a 6l-unit chain of right-angle weave: Unit 1: Use the thread to string I pearl and I charlotte four times, leaving a 7’ tail to work the clasp and fringe. Pass through the first 6 beads to exit the third pearl. Units 2 and on: String I charlotte and I pearl three times. String I charlotte. Pass through the last bead of the previous unit and first 4 beads just strung, exiting from the second pearl (fig. 1). Repeat fifty-nine times. Fig. 1: Units 1 and 2 2) CLASP. Use the tail thread to string 1 charlotte. W of french wire, and one half of the clasp; pass back through the charlotte and ihrough the first pearl. String 1 charlotte and ’/♦" of french wire; pass through the clasp again and back through the charlotte and the pearl. Tie a knot to secure the thread, then pass back through 1 charlotte and 1 pearl to exit the bottom pearl toward the necklace (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Connecting the first half of the clasp 3) FRINGE. String 1 charlotte. 1 pearl, 1 charlotte. 1 teardrop. 1 charlotte. 1 pearl, and 1 charlotte; skip a bottom pearl and pass through the next bottom pearl (Fig. 3). Pull snug and tie a half- hitch knot. Repeat entire step twenty-nine times. Fig. 3: Working the first fringe MATERIALS 3 g gold size 13° charlottes 30 amber 9x6mm top-drilled cubic zirconia teardrops 244 peach 3mm pearls 1” of fine gold french wire 1 gold 10mm S-dasp with citrine inlay 15‘ of 6 lb braided beading thread 4) FINISHING. Pass through the char- lotte above the last pearl and attach the clasp as in Step 2. Secure the tail threads with 3 or more half-hitch knots tied be- tween beads, then trim. ♦ ,..ARTI.S.T...'.S...TIPS............, ; • If adjusting the length of this necklace, it is a good idea to work i from the center of the thread. Without cutting the thread, un- roll about 2Уг' of FireLinefrom the spool. Thread the needle and start stitching using right-angle weave as in Step 1. When the working end of the thread is about 12" long, unroll 2Vi'from the spool, cut the thread, add a needle to the new end, and con- tinue to work the necklace as be- fore. Check the necklace length in : a mirror. Attach one half of the clasp and work the fringe. Re- check the length. Add or subract units with the 12" tail. Add fringe i as needed and attach the second half of the clasp as in Steps 2-4. i • If working with a box clasp, make sure the necklace is not twisted when attaching the second half of i the clasp. You may find it helpful to keep the clasp closed during stitching to prevent one of the halves from accidently getting at- i tached upside down. TOOLS Size 12 beading needle Scissors RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Cubic zirconia: Africa Stones (wholesale only), (626) 962-5800, www.africastones.com. Kit for this project: www.lesleefrumin.com. FINISHED SIZE: 16V*" 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 17
necklace PEGGY WRIGHT topaz rendezvous •;V' S TECHNIQUES :: tubular herring bone stitch :: right-angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. Peggy loves playing with color gradations when beading. This particular lariat uses gradation both for the herringbone-stitched tube, in whichyou blend two colors of triangle beads, and the tassels, in whichyou blend two colors of seed beads. 18 beadworkmagazine.com
1) T ASS EL. Work tubular herringbone stitch with loops of fringe in every other round: begin the tube by working off a 6mm labradorite with a hole large enough to handle several passes of thread. (You may substitute it with a 6mm fire-polished bead if necessary— the bead will be hidden under the fringe anyway.) Start: Use 6’ of doubled waxed thread to string 1 labradorite, leaving a 6” tail. •String? jet-lined yt triangles (A) and I pass back through the labradorite. String 2 dark topaz zairit 3mm and pass through the Цл / labradorite again. Repeat from * ‘1: $tz*rtin8 twice so that you have 6 beads on each end of the labradorite; pass through 1A (Fig. l). Round 1: String 2A. pass down through the next A and up through the A in the next set. Repeat twice, then step up for the next round by passing through 2A. Round 2: Fringe A: String 2A and pass down through the next A. String 18 seed beads (3 frosted plum, I silver- lined dark topaz, I frosted plum. 3 silver-lined dark topaz. I topaz gold luster, I silver-lined dark topaz, 3 topaz gold luster, I light gold. I topaz gold luster, and 3 light gold), 5 fire- polished (I dark topaz zairit 3mm, I dark smoked topaz 4mm, I labrador- ite 6mm, I dark smoked topaz 4mm, and I dark topaz zairit 3mm), and 18 seed beads (3 light gold, I topaz gold luster, I light gold. 3 topaz gold luster, I silver-lined dark topaz. I topaz gold luster. 3 silver-lined dark topaz, I frosted plum, I silver-lined dark topaz, and 3 frosted plum); pass up through the next A to complete the stitch (Fig. 2). Repeat twice, then step up for the next round by passing through 2A. Round 3: Repeat Round I. Fig. 2: Working Rounds 1 and 2 Round 4: Fringe B: Repeat Round 2, stringing 42 seed beads for each loop of fringe (6 frosted plum, I silver- lined dark topaz, 1 frosted plum, 2 silver-lined dark topaz, 1 topaz gold luster, 1 silver-lined dark topaz. 2 topaz gold luster. 1 light gold, 1 topaz gold luster. 10 light gold, 1 topaz gold luster, 1 light gold, 2 topaz gold luster, 1 silver-lined dark topaz. 1 topaz gold luster. 2 silver-lined dark topaz, 1 frosted plum, 1 silver-lined dark topaz, and 6 frosted plum; (Fig. 3). Fig. 3: Working Rounds 3 and 4 Rounds: Repeat Round 1. Rounds 6-18: Repeat Rounds 2 through 5 until you have 5 rounds of fire- polished loops and 4 rounds of seed-bead loops. 2) 1 UBE START. Work tubular herring bone for З’/а” beyond the tassel, using jet-lined topaz triangles. 3) TUBE TRANSITION. Work a 9-round color transition of jet-lined topaz triangles (A) into amethyst-lined topaz triangles (B): Transition Round 1: Work IB and IA around. Transition Round 2: Work 6A. Transition Round 3: Work IA and IB around. Transition Round 4: Work 6A. MATERIALS 56 g total size 10° triangle beads (14 g each of jet-lined topaz, dark amethyst-lined topaz, gold-lined topaz, and pink-lined amber) 55 g total size 1Г Japanese seed beads (11g each of frosted plum AB, silver-ltned dark topaz, topaz gold luster, and light gold AB for the tassels and brown metallic iris for the stem) 192 total 3mm fire-polished rounds (72 dark topaz zairit for the tassels and tube start; 120 dark topaz AB for the stem, top tassel, and tube accent) 84 total 4mm fire-polished rounds (72 dark smoked topaz for the tassels and tube accent, 12 topaz AB for the stem) 44 labradorite 6mm faceted rounds 2 topaz 6mm fire-polished rounds (optional) Beige size D nylon beading thread Beeswax TOOLS Size 12 beading needles Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 52” Transition Round 5: Work IB and IA around. Transition Round 6: Work 6B. Transition Round 7: Work IA and IВ around. Transition Round 8: Work 6B. Transition Round 9: Work IВ and 1A around. 4 Work tubular herringbone using dark amethyst-lined topaz triangles for about 1” beyond the transition. 5 Repeat Step 3, transitioning from dark amethyst-fined topaz (A) into pink- lined amber triangles (B): then work IW of only pink-lined amber triangles. 6) ACCENT RING Work 1 round using dark topaz 3mm. 1 round using dark smoked topaz 4mm. and 1 round using dark topaz 3mm fire-polished. 7) CENTRAL LARIAT. Work 14” to reach the midpoint of the lariat, transi tioning from pink-lined amber, to gold lined topaz, to pink-lined amber, to dark amethyst-lined topaz, to jet-lined topaz. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 19
to dark amethyst-lined topaz triangles. Before you work the second half, measure the length of the completed beadwork from the end of the tassel and adjust the central length as desired. Work another 14” (or the distance of your first side), reversing the color sequence and adding the second accent ring. Repeat Step 1 in reverse to work the second tassel from the accent ring to the end of the tassel. 8) LATTICE STEM. Work flat, single- needle right-angle weave using brown metallic iris size ll°s (A), dark topaz 3mm rounds (B). and topaz 4mm rounds (C) for six 5-unit rows (Fig. 4): Row 1: Use 6 of thread to string ЗА. IB, ЗА, and IB. leaving a 6" tail; pass through the first ЗА and IB. *String ЗА. IB, and ЗА; pass through the IB of the previous unit and the first ЗА and IB just strung. Repeat from * twice. String ЗА. IB. IC. IB, and ЗА; pass through the IB of the previous unit and the first ЗА and IB just strung (fig. 4a). a b химик* W.tWJ Fig. 4: Creating and embellishing the stern Rows 2-5: Continue as in Row I. Row 6: Wrap the flat piece of beadwork around the tube so that the 4mm beads are even with the top of the tassel. Use IB per stitch to connect Rows I and 5, except at the bottom of the lattice where you use IC to complete the last unit (Fig. 4b). 9 Weave through beads to exit a 3mm round at the top of the lattice. String ЗА; pass up through 2 tube beads, down through the next 2. back through the ЗА just strung, and through the next 3mm (Fig. 5). Repeat around, secure the thread, and weave through beads to the bottom of the lattice. Fig. 5: Stitching the stem to the tube 10) LATTICE LOOPS. Work another set of loops off the bottom of the lattice to blend it into the tassel (Fig. 4c): Loop 1: Exit a 4mm round and string 42 seed beads (6 frosted plum, I silver- lined dark topaz. I frosted plum, 2 silver-lined dark topaz. 1 topaz gold luster, 1 silver-lined dark topaz, 2 topaz gold luster. 1 light gold. 1 topaz gold luster, 10 light gold. 1 topaz gold luster, 1 light gold. 2 topaz gold luster, 1 silver-lined dark topaz, 1 topaz gold luster. 2 silver-lined dark topaz. 1 frosted plum. 1 silver-lined dark topaz, and 6 frosted plum); pass through the 4mm round and loop of beads again to reinforce. Loop 2: Exiting the same 4mm round, string 9 seed beads (6 frosted plum. 1 silver-lined dark topaz. 1 frosted plum, and 1 silver-lined dark topaz), 1 dark topaz 3mm round, 1 labradorite 6mm round, 1 dark topaz 3mm round, and 9 seed beads (1 silver-lined dark topaz, 1 frosted plum. 1 silver- lined dark topaz, and 6 frosted plum); pass through the 4mm round and loop of beads again to reinforce. Weave through the next right-angle unit and repeat to work 2 loops off each 4mm round. ♦ {making color GRADATIONS • The secret to smooth gradations of color is value-the lightness or darkness of colors. The closer the values are, the smoother the gradations. It's easiest to find colors close in value if you move between hues on the color wheel (such as amber and purple or green and blue); you may find it difficult to locate the values that you need to create smooth gradations if you stay with a single hue. Also, use beads that have similar finishes. It's difficult to move between shiny and matte beads. [COLOR CHECK • Before starting the tassel, string seed beads in your proposed colorways to see how well the colors blend. Do the same with the tri- angles, testing the blend by working a short herringbone tube (Step 3, Rounds 1-9). Blending one color into another requires about one inch of beading and the total length of the lariat (tube only) depends on how you want to wear it: 38" for a single wrap or 48" for a double wrap. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Miyuki triangle beads and seed beads: Caravan Beads, (207) 761-2503, www caravanbeads.com. Nymo nylon beading thread and 3mm and 4mm fire-polished rounds: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950 4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com. 20 beadworkmagazme.com
necklace waves of pearls MIWAKO NARA TECHNIQUES :: tubular and flat peyote stitch :: right-angle-weave variation See pulbout stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. This necklace looks like a shiny ribbon rippling aroundyour neck. Glass pearls are enclosed in tubular peyote-stitched bezels and joined with swirling diagonal peyote-stitched strips. Round stones or crystals can replace the pearls with equally beautiful results. 22 beadworkmagazine.com
BEADS 1) BEZEL. Work tubular peyote stitch around an 8mm pearl with pink cylinder beads and size 15° purple seed beads: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 2 of condit ioned thread to string I pearl and 9A. Pass through the pearl again, leaving a 6" tail. String a second set of 9A; pass through the pearl and first 9A again (Fig. l). String I A. pass through the second set of 9A. string 1A, and pass through the first 1A to form a ring around the pearl (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Completing Rounds 1 and 2 Round 3: String IA. skip IA from the pre- vious rounds, and pass through the next LA. Repeat tubular peyote stitch for a total of 10A. Step up for the next round by passing through the first A of the current round (Fig. 3). Fig. 3: Working Round 3 Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Round 5: Repeat Round 3, this time using 1 size 15° in each stitch instead of IA. Pull the thread tight to snug the seed beads around the pearl. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Turn the work upside down to com- plete the next two rounds. Round 6: Repeat Round 3. Round 7: Repeat Round 5 (Fig. 4). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat entire step thirteen times for a total of 14 bezeied pearls. Fig. 4: Finishing the bezel 2) CLASP BUTTON. Stitch another bezeied pearl to form the clasp button: Rounds 1-6: Repeat Rounds l-6 of Step I. Rounds 7 and 8: Repeat Round 3 of Step I twice. Round 9 (decrease): String I A; pass through the next 2A of the previous round. Repeat for a total of 5A. Step up through the first A added in this round. Round 10: Work IA in each stitch (Fig. 5). Pass through the beads again to tighten. Secure the thread and trim. Set the clasp button aside. Fig. 5: Decreasing for the clasp button MATERIALS 3 g transparent purple AB size 15° Japanese seed beads 4 g pink luster size 11 ° cylinder beads (A) 6 g transparent light purple iris size 11“ cylinder beads (B) 3 g purplish brown iris matte metallic size 11° cylinder beads (C) 2 g gold-lined pearl size 1T Japanese seed beads(D) 15 mauve 8mm crystal pearl rounds Purple size D nylon beading thread Thread conditioner TOOLS Size 12 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 15” (EXPANDABLE TO 17*’) Rows 1 and 2: Start 4’ of conditioned thread that exits right to left from a bezeied pearl’s Round 4 (the final A round on the back of the bezel), leaving a 9” tail. String 7B, ID, and IB; pass back through the seventh B, making sure the D sits on the outside of the beadwork (Fig. 6). Fig. 6: Working Rows 1 and 2 of the outer strip Row 3: Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. Pass through the next Round 4 A from right to left. Row 4: String IB and pass back through the last В added in the previous row. Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. String IB, ID. and IB: pass back through the В just added before the ID (Fig. 7). WAVES 3) OUTER STRIP. Work peyote stitch off the bottom of a bezeied pearl to form the outer portion of a swirl: Fig. 7: IVo/Aog Rows 3 and 4 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 23
Row 5: Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch (Fig. 8. purple-outlined beads); pass through the next Round 4 A from right to left and pull tight so the beadwork curves. Rows 6 and 7: Repeat Rows 4 and 5. Row 8: Repeat Row 4. Row 9: Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. Don’t connect to the next Round 4 A on the bezel. Row 10: Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch. String IB, ID. and IB; pass back through the В just added before the ID. Row 11: Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch: pass through the next Round 4 A from right to left. Row 12: Work 4 stitches with IВ in each stitch. String IB. ID, and IB: pass back through the В just added before the ID. Row 13: Work 3 stitches with IВ in each stitch; don't connect to the next Round 4 A on the bezel. Row 14: Work 4 stitches with IB in each stitch. String IB. ID, and IB: pass back through the В just added before the ID. Row 15: Work 4 stitches with IB in each stitch: pass through the next Round 4 A from right to left. Row 16: String IB and pass back through the last В added in the previous row. Work I stitch with IC. Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch. Secure the work- ing thread and trim (Fig. 8); set aside. Fig. 8: Finishing the outer strip 4) INNER STRIP. Work peyote stitch from the top of a second bezeled pearl to form the inner portion of a swirl: Rows 1 and 2: Start 4’ of conditioned thread that exits left to right from Round 1 (the second A round from the top of the pearl) of a second bezeled pearl. String ID and 8C. Pass back through the sixth C (Fig. 9). Fig. 9: Starring the inner strip Row 3: Work 2 stitches with IC in each stitch; pass through the next Round 1 A from left to right. Row 4: String ID; pass back through the last C added in the previous row. Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. String 3C; pass back through the first C just added. Row 5: Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch: pass through the next Round 1 A from left to right and pull tight so the beadwork curves. Row6: String ID: pass back through the last В added in the previous row. Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. String 3C; pass back through the first C just added. Rows 7 and 8: Repeat Rows 5 and 6. Row 9: Work 2 stitches with IB in each stitch. Don’t connect to the next Round 6 A on the bezel. Row 10: Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch. String 3C; pass back through the first C just added. Row 11: Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch; pass through the next Round 6 A from left to right. Row 12: String ID: pass back through the last В added in the previous row. Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch. String 3C; pass back through the first C just added. Row 13: Work 3 stitches with IB in each stitch: don’t connect to the next Round 4 A on the bezel. Row 14: Work 4 stitches with IB in each stitch. Don’t trim the thread. 5) CONNECTING THE STRIPS. Zip the outer and inner strips together to complete the swirl: Align: Position the beadwork from Steps 3 and 4 so both bezeled pearls are right side up. Align the inner strip so it swoops down from the top and the outer strip so it swoops up from the bottom. Move the final rows of each strip so the lone C on the outer strip and the last C on the inner strip touch. Zip: Use the working thread from the inner strip to string IC; pass through the C on the outer strip toward the end of that strip. Pass back through the C previously added (Fig. 10) and pull tight. Fig. 10: Connecting the inner strip (left) to the outer strip Alternately pass through the up beads at the end of each strip, zipping a total of 6B together and exiting from Row 14 of the inner strip. Complete swirl: Work 1 stitch with IB. Pass through the next Round 1 A on the second bezeled pearl from right to left. Strins 1D. pass back through the last В added 1 Fig. 11) and pull tight. Secure • he :hread and trim (Fig. 12). Fig. 11: ' • - -«с’D 24 beadworkmagazine.com
Fig. 12: The completed connection 6) SWIRLS. Work an outer strip on the opposite side of the second bezeled pearl and an inner strip on a third pearL Connect the two as in Step 5. Repeat to connect a total of 13 bezeled pearls. 7) CLASP. Use the tail threads of the bezeled pearls at the end of the necklace to form the clasp: Button: Weave the tail thread of a bezeled pearl at one end of the necklace through beads to exit Round 6, near the start of the first outer strip. String 12B; pass through 2A in Round 10 of the clasp button. String 12B; pass through the last bead exited at the end of the necklace. Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim (Fig. 13). Fig. 13: Attaching the clasp button Loops: Weave the tail thread of the bezeled pearl at the other end of the necklace through beads to exit Round 4. near the start of the inner strip. String 29B; Fig. 14: Forming the clasp loops pass through the last A exited at the end of the necklace and through the first 16B just strung to form a circle. String 27B; pass through the I4th-I6th beads of the first circle and the first 15 beads just strung. String 27B; pass through the 13th-15th beads of the second circle. Repeat the entire thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim (Fig. 14). ♦ 4 'V Ki RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Delica beads: Miyuki, www.miyuki-beads .co.jp/ (Japanese). Glass pearls: Swarovski #58'10, www.kiwa-inc.co.jp/ (Japanese). U.S. Source: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 423-2319, www.firemountaingems com. These pink and gold necklace variations show how the wave pattern in the design is well suited to subtle color blending, no matter what shades you choose. The gold version of the necklace shown here takes the design in a slightly dif- ferent direction by creating a pearl focal and adding texture with alternating luminous pearls and sparkling crystals in the wave patterns. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 25
crystal drop Nancy designed a flared bell shape to accent a large crystal, adding increases in tubular herringbone. Beading wire inside the tubular herringbone tubes supports the weight of the ciystal. TECHNIQUES :: tubular herring- bone stitch :: stringing :: crimping See pulbout stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information ' K. r L. \
1) FOCAL START. Work a short tube using tubular herringbone stitch: Start: Use 8' of waxed thread to string 4A starter beads (to be removed later), leaving a 5' tail. Pass through the first bead again, being sure not to pierce any of the starter bead thread. Round 1: String 2A: pass through the next starter bead. Repeat around for a total of 8A. Step up for the next round by ff \ passing through the \ first bead of this round (Fig. l). Rounds 2-6: Work 2A Fig. -j. Working in each stitch. Round 1 2) FOCAL BOTTOM (FLARED BELL). Continue working tubular herringbone stitch with 2A in each stitch; increase the tube by stringing additional beads be- tween stitches, referring to Fig. 2: Round 7: String IC between each stitch. Round 8: String ID between each stitch. Round9: String 2C between each stitch. Round 10: String 2D between each stitch. Round 11: String IC. ID. and IC between each stitch. Round 12: String 4C between each stitch. Round 13: String IC, 2D, and IC between each stitch. Round 14: String IC, 3B. and IC between each stitch. Round 1$: String IC. 4B. and IC between each stitch. Round 16: String 1В and pass down through 2A. Pass through Round 15's IC. 4B. and IC and down through 2A in the next column (Fig.2a). Repeat around for a total of four times. Pass through beads and trim. 3) FOCAL TOP. Remove the 4 starter beads in order to use the tail thread. Use 8A beads (2 beads in each stitch) to work a total of 10 rounds of tubular herring- bone stitch above the flare. 4) STRAPS. Flatten the beadwork so that 2 columns of A beads are aligned front to Fig. 2: Working the bottom of the focal back and there is a column on each side (as shown in Fig. 2); work the straps off these columns: Beginning with the rightmost column of beads, work a 4-bead tubular herring- bone strap that is about 8%" with 2A in each stitch (Fig. 3a) for a total of 4 beads around. Tighten thread after every stitch by pinching the top round of beads. Pass through the last 71 round again to b V/*— secure; do not , ~'(1 (. trim thread. i t Repeat Step 4 for 4 J, the second strap, working off the left _ , л . . , ? c t Fig. 3: Beginning side column of the the straps flared bell for the second strap (Fig. 3b). To test the straps are of even length, hang them; work rounds until they match visually. 5) STRINGING. Join the crystal beadwork and clasp: Use 19" of wire to string 2 crimp tubes; pass back through the crimp tubes and position 1 tube at Vx»” and one at Vis" above the crystal; crimp the tubes. Repeat with the second ware. Use both wires to string the Bared bell; separate the wires to pass 1 wire through each herringbone strap. Gently pull the wires to hide the top of the crystal inside the flared bell. Mark one wire Vi" above the strap ends and match the second wire to that mark. Use 1 wire to string 2 crimp tubes and one half of the clasp; pass back through the tubes. Snug the the clasp near the mark; crimp the tubes. Repeat for the MATERIALS 1 g raspberry iris transparent size 15° seed beads(C) 1 g 24k gold size 11 ** seed beads (B) 24 raspberry iris transparent size 1T seed beads(D) 14 g 24k gold iris size 10 cylinder beads (A) 1 golden shadow 30x50mm crystal pendant 8 gold 2mm crimp tubes 1 vermeil 19x45mm hook-and-eye clasp 38" gold-plated .014 beading wire Gold size D nylon beading thread Natural beeswax TOOLS Size 11 needle Scissors Wire cutters Permanent marker Crimping pliers FINISHED SIZE: 2 0” (WITH 2 V* " FOCAL) other strap and the other half of the clasp. Trim the ends. 6) FINISHING. Continue tubular her ringbone stitch to cover the crimp tubes: Repeat Round 2 to cover the crimp tube, leaving '/я" between the last round and the clasp. Next-to-last round: Work 2B in each stitch. Last round: String IВ on top of each column and IC between each stitch. Repeat around for the remaining 2 columns. Pass through existing thread paths in the columns around the crimp tubes until beadwork is secure; trim thread. Repeat entire step for the second strap. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski De-Art crystal pendant and seed beads: Creative Castle, (877) 232-3748, www.creatrvecastle.com. Similar clasp Are Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137. www.firemountaingems.com. 41 Г avorite Jewelry Designs 27
fldlKIUCt elizabethan necklace LORI STRONER This project for advanced off-loom beadweavers uses pearly triangle-weave beaded beads strung together with gorgeous vermeil findings to produce a stunning necklace that will makejou feel queenly! TECHNIQUES :: triangle weave :: stringing :: crimping See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 28 beadworkmagazine.com
PROJECT NOTES Each of the following geometric forms can be created using triangles or, in this case, triangle-weave units. Here, each edge (or side) of each triangle consists of one pearl; each pearl is connected to another pearl with one seed bead between, forming a vertex. While the face of each triangle shares its pearly edges with the face(s) next to it, be sure to always string a seed bead at each end whenever adding a pearl. You will be passing through the pearls several times, so wait until all the beads are added and then weave through beads to reinforce as needed. BEADED BEADS 1) DOUBLE TETRAHEDRON SMALL BEADED 81 Build face-to-face tetrahedrons using sculptural triangle weave points off each side of a flat triangle to create a small beaded bead: Unit 1 (base): Use 2' of doubled thread to string (LA and IB} three times, leaving a 4" tail, fie a knot to form a snug triangle: pass through 2 beads, exiting a pearl. Unit 2: String IA. IB. IA, IB. and IA; pass through the last pearl exited again and the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. l). Fig. 1: Units I and 2 of the tetrahedron Unit3: String IA. IB. and LA; pass back through the next base pearl. String IA and pass up through the nearest pearl of the previous unit and the first 2 beads of this unit (Fig. 1). F’g- 2: Units 1-3 of the tetrahedron Tetrahedron: 4 triangles, 4 corners (3 seed beads each), and 6 edges/lavender pearls. Icosahedron: 20 triangles, 12 corners (5 seed beads each), and 30 edges/lavender pearls. Dodecahedron: 20 triangles, 20 corners (6 seed beads each), which form 12 pentagonal sides with 30 edges/olive pearls. Unit 4: Use seed beads to connect the pearls of the first and last units: String IA and pass through the next base pearl; string LA and pass up through the nearest pearl of Unit 2: string IA and pass down through the last pearl of die previous unit (Fig. 3). Check that your tetrahedron has 6 pearls and 12 seed beads (3 at each vertex). Fig. 3: Units 1-4 of the tetrahedron Units 5-7: Weave through beads to exit a pearl in Unit I. Turn the beadwork over and repeat Units 2-4. adding a total of 3 pearls and 9 seed beads (Fig.4). Weave through beads to rein- force; secure the thread and trim. Fig. 4: Units 1-7 of the double tetrahedron Repeat entire step five times for a total of 6 small beaded beads. 2) ICOSAHEDRON MEDIUM BEADED •_ E A DS Use lavender pearls and seed beads to weave a sphere of 20 triangles, enclosing I core bead inside: MATERIALS 10g lavender size 15' Japanese seed beads (A) 367 lavender 4x5mm rice pearls (B) 35 olive 5x6mm rice pearls (C) 23 olive 5x7mm rice pearls 8 cream or clear pearlescent 10mm plastic or wood (core) beads* 30 sterling silver 2mm seamless rounds 14 gold-filled 3mm seamless rounds 1 gold-filled 4mm round 1 vermeil 3.5mm daisy spacer 15 sterling silver 5mm daisy spacers 15 vermeil 7.5mm daisy spacers 14 vermeil 6x2mm star bead caps 14 vermeil 9x7mm filigree bead cones 1 vermeil 32mm toggle clasp 1 sterling silver 22-gauge 2" head pin 3 gold 2x3mm crimp tubes 2 gold-filled 4mm crimp covers 5" of sterling silver 20-gauge wire 27" of .015 beading wire Clear 4 lb braided beading thread *NOTE: You may need to adjust the size of the core bead if it does not fit snugly inside of the beaded bead, as the exact size of the beaded bead may vary based on the actual size and shape of the pearls used. TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle Wire cutters Round-nose pliers Bent chain-nose pliers Crimping pliers FINISHED SIZE: 24” (WITH 3V." FOGA1J Unit 1: Use 3' of doubled thread to string {IA and IB} three times, leaving a 4” tail. Tie a knot to form a snug tri- angle: pass through the first 2 beads strung, exiting a pearl. Units2-9: String IA. IB. LA. IB. and 1A; pass through the last pearl exited and the first 4 beads just strung to exit the second pearl (Fig. 5). Repeat to work a triangle-weave strip 9 units long. Fig. 5: Units 1 and 2 of the icosahedron strip 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 29
Unit 10: String lA. IB, and lA: pass down through the second pearl of Unit I. String LA and pass up through the last pearl of the previous unit (Fig. б). Pull tight to form the strip into a ring with 5 pearls along each edge. Fig. 6: Units 1-10 of the icosahedron strip Unit 11: Exit a pearl along one edge of the strip. String 1A, IB. 1A. IB. and 1A; pass through the last pearl exited again and the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 7). Fig. 7: Woi ting Una 11 off the strip of the icosahedron Unit 12: String LA. IB, and lA: pass back through the strip’s next edge pearl. String 1A and pass through the nearest pearl of the previous unit and the first 2 beads of this unit. String 1А and pass through the strip’s next edge pearl (fig. 8). Fig. 8: Una 12 of the icosahedron Unit 13: String LA. IB, and LA; pass down through the last pearl of the previous unit and the beads of this unit to exit the pearl just strung. Unit 14: Repeat Unit 12. Unit 15: String 1A; pass up through the nearest pearl of Unit 11. String 1A and pass down through the last pearl of the previous unit and the next 2 beads of this unit, exiting a pearl (Fig. 9). Fig. 9: Unit 15, completing half of the icosahedron Units 16-20: Place one 10mm bead inside the cupped beadwork. Repeat Units 11-15 around the opposite edge of the strip. Make sure the hole of the 10mm bead is aligned with the center of the top and bottom of the bead (the vertex of Units 11-15). Weave through beads to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat entire step seven times for a total of 8 medium beaded beads. 3) DODECAHEDRON FOCAL BEADED В E A D Cover 1 medium beaded bead (henceforth referred to as the “core”) from Step 2 with a layer of lavender pearl tetrahedron facets, then connect the top vertices of the facets with olive pearls to highlight the 12 pentago- nal faces of this beaded bead: Tetrahedron facets: Start 3' of doubled thread that exits a pearl of the core. Work Units 2-4- from Step 1, using a 3-pearl triangle of the core as the base unit (Unit 1) to form one half of a double tetrahedron (Fig. 10); repeat for Fig. 10: Working the tetrahedron facets of the dodecahedron each of the 20 core units. Note; If you find yourself confused about whether you've stitched together all the sides of a tetrahedron, check to see that each pearl has a seed bead connecting it to the pearl to its right and another seed bead connecting it to the pearl to its left. Each face of the tetrahedron should have a total of 3B (one from the core bead) and ЗА. The top vertex of the tetrahedron will have a total of ЗА; the vertices where pearls added in this step connect to the core bead will have a total of 2A. Pentagon 1: Exit up through a pearl in one of the 5 tetrahedron facets sur- rounding the hole at the top of the beaded bead. String LA. IC. and lA; pass down through the closest pearl of an adjacent tetrahedron facet. String 1A; pass up through the pearl last exited on the first tetrahedron facet and the first 2 beads added in this step to form a triangle-weave unit (Fig. 11a). dodecahedron String LA pass down through the adjacent pearlthe outside of the second tetrahedn: r. tact* String LA; pass up through he outside pearl of the first tetrahedr - facet. String LA. Weave throurn bead? to exit down through a pearl tn an a-r.acent tetrahe- dron facet that s urrounds the hole at the top c • те bead 'Fig. 11b); Fig. 11b . seed beasts ~ ur t т* top of the bead * to form а гегтэгж -.гдге - saving through - _r •- - pearif as before to secure each. гезе- the tetrahedron жт T2 30 beadworkmagazine.com
Fig. 12: Completing a pentagon at the top of the dodecahedron Pentagons 2-6: Continue connecting tetrahedron facets, working I pentagon off each side of the first pentagon. Pentagons 7-12: Connect tetrahedron facets on the second half of the beaded bead as before (and as shown in the photograph). Repeat the thread path as necessary to strengthen. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. NECKLACE P E N f A N T Use the 20-gauge wire to form a wrapped loop and string one 2mm round. 1 cone (narrow end first), one 5x7mm pearl, the 4mm round, one 5mm spacer, one 7.5mm spacer, the focal beaded bead. 1 bead cap (wide end first), one 2mm round, 1 cone (narrow end first), one 5x7mm pearl, one 5mm spacer, one 7.5mm spacer, 1 medium beaded bead, one 7.5mm spacer, and one 5mm spacer. Form a wrapped loop. Use the head pin to string one 2mm round, the 3.5mm spacer, one 5x7mm pearl, and 1 bead cap (wide end first). Form a wrapped loop that attaches to the second wrapped loop formed in this step. Set aside. 5) STRINGING. Use the beading wire to string 1 crimp tube, 9A. and the bar half of the clasp; pass back through the tube and crimp. Cover the crimp tube with I crimp cover. String IB. one 2mm round, 1C. one 2mm round. IB. one 3mm round, one 5x7mm pearl, one 3mm round. IB, one 2mm round. 1 bead cap (narrow end first). 1 small beaded bead (lengthwise), 1 bead cap (wide end first), one 2mm round, 1B. one 3mm round, one 5x7mm pearl, one 3mm round. IB. *one 2mm round, 1 cone (narrow end first), one 5X7mm Choose pearls that are consistent in size and shape to ensure the roundness of the beaded beads. spacer, 1 medium beaded bead, one 7.5mm spacer, one 5mm spacer, one 5x7mm pearl. 1 cone (wide end first), one 2mm round.* 1C. one 2mm round. 1 bead cap (narrow end first), 1 small beaded bead (lengthwise), 1 bead cap (wide end first), one 2mm round, and 1C. Repeat from * to *. String IB. one 3mm round, one 5x7mm pearl, one 3mm round, IB. one 2mm round. 1 bead cap (narrow end first), 1 small beaded bead (lengthwise), 1 bead cap (wide end first), one 2mm round, and one 5x7mm pearl. Repeat from * to *. String one 3mm round and 1 crimp tube. Snug the beads and crimp; do not trim the wire. String the pendant so the wire sits over the crimp tube. Repeat entire step, reversing the stringing sequence; do not string the last 12 beads, crimp tube, or other half of the clasp. Instead, string the remaining crimp tube and the ring half of the clasp; pass back through the tube, crimp, and cover. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pearls and 10mm rounds: Michaels, (800) 642-4235, www.michaels.com. Vermeil dasp: Via Murano, (877) 842-6872, www viamurano.com. FireLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Sterling silver and similar gold findings: Nina Designs, (800) 336-6462, www.ninadesigns com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 31
necklace earthy zen MARLENE BLESSING Stitching seed beads in an earthypalette can truly bt a fen experience—at least it was for Marlene when she worked on this combo of tubular herringbone stitch and silver chain. And the distinctive pendant by artist Kate McKinnon gives the piece a beautiful edge.
1) TUBE. Work a herringbone-stitched tube for 9’/a”: Ladder round: Use 6 of waxed thread to ladder-stitch ЮЛ, leaving a 6” tad. Pass through the first and last beads to form a tube, exiting the top of the first bead. Rounds 1-18: String 2A. pass down through the next bead and up through the following bead in the previous round. Repeat four times; step up at the end of the round by passing up through 2 beads. Rounds 19 and on: Work 1A and 1В in each stitch for 7", then repeat Rounds 1-18. Weave the tail threads through a few rounds to reinforce each end of the tube and trim close. 2) STRINGING. Use the beading wire to string 1 crimp tube. 20A, and one end of the chain; pass back through the tube and crimp. String 1 bead cap and enough silver rounds to fill the tube; slip the herringbone tube over the rounds. String the pendant onto the tube. String the bead cap. 1 crimp tube. 20A. and the other end of the chain; pass back through the tube and crimp. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Nymo nylon beading thread: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www .beyondbeadery.com Chain: Saki Silver, (513) 861 -9626, www.sakisilver.com. Bead caps; Pacific Silverworks, (805) 641-1394, www .pacificsilverworks.com. Pendant: Kate McKinnon, www.katemckinnon.com MATERIALS 10g brown matte metallic size 11 seed beads (A) 5 g brown matte size 11 ’ seed beads (B) About 40 sterling silver 6mm rounds 18" of Thai silver 10mm round chain 1 fine silver 12x58mm pendant 2 sterling silver textured 9mm (inner diameter) bead caps 2 sterling silver 2mm crimp tubes 13Vz" of silver .019 beading wire Brown nylon beading thread Beeswax TOOLS Size 10 or 12 beading needle Wire cutters Crimping pliers Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 3 1 • 4 ” 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 35
necklace turquoise collage MARCELLA AUSTENFELD TECHNIQUES :: right-angle weave :: ladder stitch :: wireworktng :: knotting :: stringing See pulbout stitch guide between pp. 48—49 for helpful technique information This bohemian-style necklace is a fun and stylish collage of both materials anc techniques. The result is a free-spirited de: gr. that employs off-loom beadweaving, wireuo^'g. knotting, and stringing. 36 bcadworkmagazine.com
1) BEZEL Using 3* of thread and 8 charlottes per unit, make a 4-unit-wide strip of right-angle weave that fits the cir- cumference of the turquoise slice snugly. Join: Exiting up through the last unit at the end of the strip, string 2 charlottes and pass down through the mirrored beads at the first row of the strip. String 2 charlottes and pass up through the 2 charlottes you originally exited. Weave through the beads to exit down through the side beads of the next unit on the end of the strip (Fig. l). Continue to complete the right-angle- weave units down the edge to connect the strip into a tube. Exit from a pair of charlottes at the bottom of the tube. Fig. 1: >< :i D Back: Weave through all the beads at the bottom of the tube several times, pull- ing tightly to cup the beadwork. Tie a knot between beads to secure the shap- ing. Place the turquoise slice inside. Front: Weave through the beads to exit from a pair of charlottes at the top of the tube. Weave through the beads as before, pulling tightly so the slice is sur- rounded by the beadwork. Tie a knot between beads to secure the shaping; trim the thread close to the work. 2) BAIL. Use a comfortable length of thread and charlottes to make a strip of ladder stitch 2 beads wide by 8 beads long. Sew the ends of the strip to the place on the bezel that would best suit the bail (Fig. 2). Reinforce the connection, secure the thread, and trim close to the work. 3) EMBELLISHED JUMP RINGS. Use 2" of 22-gauge wire and one 4x6mm teardrop to form a wrapped-loop bail Fig. 2: that attaches to I jump ring (Fig. 3). Make a second dangle that attaches to the same ring. Repeat for a total of 7 teardrop jump rings: set aside. Fig. 3: .v • . Use I head pin to string I charlotte and I turquoise nugget; form a wrapped loop that attaches to one of the teardrop jump rings. Repeat twice to add nugget dangles to 2 other teardrop jump rings; set these teardrop/nugget jump rings aside. String I charlotte and I accent bead on a head pin and form a wrapped loop that attaches to a jump ring; set this accent jump ring aside. 4) CENTER SECTION. Cut 8" ofcord and tie an overhand knot: Fold the cord 3” from one end; tie an overhand knot with the tip of the fold, tightening the cord to form a */2" loop and leaving a short tail (Fig. 4). String 3 silver spacers, the beaded bail, and 3 silver spacers. Tie an overhand loop at the end of the cord so that this section is about 3" long. Trim any excess cord. Set aside. Fig. 4: MATERIALS 5 g silver size 13° charlottes 3 g assorted size 11е seed beads to match turquoise 14 turquoise 4x6mm glass teardrops 30-40 assorted 3-6mm accent beads (silver, pearl, crystal, glass, eta) 3 dear/blue/yellow 4x9mm lampworked borosilicate (boro) rondelles 4 dear/blue/yellow 8mm boro drops 2 blue 10x16mm twisted porcelain spatter beads 3 turquoise 12mm nuggets 1 turquoise 40x52x6mm slice 11 sterling silver 6mm twisted wire spacers 4 sterling silver 2Vz" head pins 9 sterling silver 6mm soldered jump rings Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread 16" of 2mm brown leather cord 2' of sterling silver 22-gauge wire 2' of sterling silver 24-gauge wire TOOLS Size 13 beading needle Round-nose pliers Chain- and flat-nose pliers Wire cutters FINISHED SIZE: 23° (WITH 2‘A" FOCAL) 5) RIGHT SECTION. Cut 8" ol cord and tie an overhand knot as before at one end. String I porcelain bead to about %" from the knot. Leaving a I" tail, coil the end of the 24-gauge wire around the cord between the bead and the knot five or six times, moving the wraps up toward the bead; trim the wire tail and use chain-nose pliers to squeeze the ware into the cord. Herringbone wrap: Holding the bead close to the coil, bring the wire up along the side of the bead, cross over the front of the cord, around the back (Fig. 5). and Fig. 5: i' 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 37
over the front. Bring the wire down along the other side of the bead, cross over the front of the cord, around the back, and over the front (Fig. б). Repeat wrapping four or more times: do not trim the wire. Fig. 6: ‘.Vo।: i Seed wrap: Use the wire tail to string 5” of seed beads; wrap the beaded wire around the cord to make a few coils at one end of the porcelain bead. Bring the wire behind the porcelain bead and repeat at the other end. adding beads as necessary. When finished wrapping, remove any extra seed beads left on the wire and wrap the plain wire around the cord to secure. Trim the wire tail and use chain-nose pliers to squeeze the wire into the cord. Use the cord tail to tie an overhand knot next to the seed beads, then string 1 boro drop. 1 teardrop jump ring, 1 silver spacer. 1 rondelle, 1 silver spacer. 1 tear- drop jump ring, and I boro drop. Tie an overhand loop as before close to the beads and trim any excess cord. 6) LEFT SECTION. Cut a 12” length of cord and tie an overhand knot at one end. String 1 silver spacer, 1 porcelain bead, and 1 silver spacer; tie an overhand knot close to the beads. String 1 rondelle, 1 silver spacer, and 1 rondelle; tie an overhand knot ’Л" after the beads. String {1 teardrop/nugget jump ring. 1 teardrop jump ring, and 1 boro drop} twice. String 1 teardrop/nugget jump ring. Join: String the remaining plain jump ring and the end nearest the dangles on the right knotted section; pass back through the jump ring and tie an over- hand knot that incorporates the accent jump ring; trim any excess cord (Fig. 7). Set the beaded cord aside. Fig. 7: 7) ASSEMBLY. Cut 12” of thread and string 20 size ll°s. leaving a 3" tail. Pass through an end loop of the beaded cord. Pass through the seed beads again to form a loop and tie a square knot to secure. String 1l/t" of assorted accent beads. String 20 size 1 l°s and pass through an end loop of the center section. Pass back through the seed beads again to make a loop and tie a square knot to secure. Weave through all the seed and accent beads one or two more times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim close to the work. Repeat to join the other end of the beaded cord and the center section, mak ing the accent bead sequence 3” long. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Charlottes and FireLine braided beading thread: QuiltWorks Northwest, (425) 468- 8992. Turquoise slice and nuggets: Kameyab Imports, (505) 821 -6217, www.kibeads.com Seed beads, jump rings, and leather cord Baubles and Beads, (510) 644-2323, www .baublesandbeads.com. Porcelain spatter beads. Cocopah, (928) 282-4928, www.beadofthemonthclub.com. Turquoise teardrops. The Garden of Beadin', (707) 923-9120, www.gardenofbeadin.com Borosilicate beads Unicome Beads, (800) 833-2095, www .unicornebeads.com. 38 beadworkmagazine.com
See pull-out stitch guide between pp. -18-49 for helpful technique information. TECHNIQUES :: square stitch :: st. Petersburg chain sea necklace of grass necklace HATSUMI OSHITANI This flowing neckpiece is woven using modified Russian herringbone stitch and St. Petersburg chain. It’s cleverly secured at the center with a beaded flower motif shaped like a belt buckle.
1) STRAP. Work a chain of modified Russian herringbone stitch for each half of the necklace; cut 8' of thread and string on a tension bead, leaving a 6" tail: Unit 1: String I triangle. 8A, and I bugle; pass back through the triangle to form a narrow loop (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working Unit I Unit 2: String I triangle, 4A, I triangle, 8Л, and I bugle; pass back through the second triangle to form a loop (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Adding Unit 2 Weave through beads to exit up through the bugle in Unit I ; string I triangle (Fig. 3a) and pass down through the 8A and up through the bugle again (Fig. 3b). Fig. 3: Adding a triangle and stepping up for Unit 3 Unit 3: String I triangle, 8A, and I bugle; pass back through the triangle just strung to form a loop (Fig. 4). 40 beadworkmagazine.com Ftg. 4: Completing Unit 3 Unit 4: String 4A and pass up through the opposite bugle in Unit 2; string I triangle (Fig. 5a) and pass down through the 8A and up through the bugle again (Fig. 5b). Fig. 5: Working Unit 4 Repeat Units 3 and 4 for IO", working I white marble druk at random in place of the triangle at the outer edge of Unit 4. Druks and daggers: Continue stitching for another 6”, working a bronze or white druk or a dagger at random in place of the outer triangle bead. As you work down the strip, incorporate more daggers. Secure the thread and trim; set aside. Repeat entire step to make a second chain, working the section with druks and daggers for 6’A”. 2 ) RING CLOSURE. Work Petersburg chain to make a bucklelike closure: Unit 1: Use 8’ of thread to string a tension bead, leaving a 6" tail. String 6B. Pass through the third and fourth beads MATERIALS 15g peacock blue-lined sue 11 - seed beads (A) 3 g ivory lustre size 11 seed beads (B) 5 g cornflower blue-hned dear size 10е triangle beads 8 g peacock AB sue 3 12mm) twisted bugle beads 50 white marble 3mm oruxs 15 bronze 3mm druks 30 striped corm* owe* Ьйэе 4 «6mm dagger beads 1 silver 18m— -du-c тс» Gasp Clear 6 b beaded seac. thread or KO thread TOOLS Scissors Sue 12 beaor^ -«de FINISHED SIZE; 20” (WITH ’ just > ~ 1 triangle anc pasd. Тдач 3 oeads in the first гош S-rag Tzorrle druk and pass Ьлтх - rucr 2 otads in the seeorkT го» =* t
through the 2B just strung. String 1 triangle and pass back through 3B. String 1 white marble druk (Fig. 8) and pass up through the first 4A in Unit 1. Exit from a druk. Fig. 8: Connecting the ends of the ring between beads. Don’t trim the thread. Ring back: Repeat Units 1-17 in the same manner as the front of die ring, but instead of stringing 1 triangle or 1 druk at the end of a seed bead sequence, share the beads of the front to make a double layer. Exit from a triangle in the inner round. Pass through all the trian gle beads in the inner round several Back strip: Working directly off the inside triangles of the ring, square-stitch a strip 2B wide and 8 beads long. Connect the strip to 2 adjacent beads on the opposite side of the ring, making a bucklelike shape. Weave through all the beads again to rein- force. Secure the thread and trim. Pass the beginning ends of each strap through the closure until the daggers touch the ring (Fig. 9). Fig. 9: The bach of the ring closure 3) CLASP. Thread the needle on the tail at the beginning of one of the straps. String 7A and half of the clasp. Pass back through the 1 triangle and I bugle of Unit 1. Weave dirough the beads at the end of the strip, following the thread path. Weave through the clasp connec- tion beads several times to reinforce, making knots between beads. Secure the thread and trim close to the work. Repeat entire step for the other half of the clasp. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads. FtreLine braided beading thread, KO nylon beading thread, and similar bugles. Beadcats, (503) 625-2323, www. bead cats com. , I < . к 4 ti 4 4 I ( 1 . . I I III i . . * < Ml M « - 4*4* > - n,«II, EDITOR'S TIP: If the holes in your bugles are sharp and cause thread breakage, string one seed bead before and after each bugle, treating the three beads as if they were one bugle. Note that you may also need to add additional seed beads to the loops that surround the bugles to account for the change in size. Alternatively, use shorter bugles to avoid having to adjust the loops. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 41
TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch :: brick stitch :: right-angle weave :: picot Have fun creating lacy bead caps using a variety of seed beads, crystals, and pearls; then join two together over a larger bead. The result is a beaded bead dressed up with sparkle and color. Wear one alone for a solo daxzler or string with several others for a stunning necklace. See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 42 beadworkmagazine.com
1) BEAD CAPS. Work each bead cap separately and join 2 together around a larger bead: Round 1: Use 3 of thread and one color of C to work a strip of ladder stitch 12 beads long. Stitch the first and last beads together to form a ring. Round 2: String 3C; pass down through the next bead in the previous round and up through the following bead. Repeat around for a total of 6 picots. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead added in this round (Fig. l). Fig. 3: Fig. 1: Round 3: *String 3C and pass down through the third bead of the picot you’re exiting. String ID and pass up through the first bead of the next picot. Repeat from * around for a total of 6 additional picots with ID between each. Weave through beads to exit from the second bead added in this round (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: • Round 4: *String ЗА (or 3B). Pass through the Round 3 bead just exited to work another picot. Weave through beads to exit from the tip of the next picot of the previous round. Repeat around, using either A or В consistently, for a total of 6 additional picots. Exit from the second bead added in this round (Fig. 3). Don’t cut the thread. Note: If your 16mm beads have wide holes, use В to work I or 2 rounds of decreasing brick stitch inside Round I of each cap (Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Rt?i Repeat Rounds 1-4 thirteen times for a total of 7 pairs of matching bead caps, using different bead colors in each round so each final beaded bead is unique. Set aside. Round 5: Position 2 matching bead caps on each end of one 16mm bead so they mirror one another. *Use one work- ing thread to string 1 accent bead. Pass through the tip of the matching picot on the opposite cap. Pass back through the accent bead and into the tip of the picot you originally exited. Weave through the beads to exit from the tip of the next picot (Fig. 5). Repeat from * around until the caps are connected. Secure the thread and trim. MATERIALS 3 g turquoise shiny size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g bronze metallic size 15° charlottes (B) 7 g each size 11° seed beads in turquoise- lined clear, turquoise matte, gold metallic, and brown luster (C) 3 g gold metallic size 8° seed beads (D) 42 total 3-4mm cube, crystal bicone, and fire-polished round accent beads in bronze and turquoise 14 dark brown 11 x9mm glass bicones 1 sapphire 14mm crystal rivoli 6 chalcedony or amazonite 13-19x18-25mm faceted nuggets 7 dark brown 16mm ceramic rounds 26 gold-filled or brass 6mm daisy spacers 2 gold-filled 2mm crimp tubes Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread 24" of .018 beading wire TOOLS Size 12 beading needles Wire cutters Crimping pliers Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 171/2” Fig. 5: ' . : л ..'.г. Optional: For extra embellishment, use A or В to work 5-unit-long strips of right-angle weave between the strips of picots. attaching them to the D beads of Round 3. 2) BEZEL. Use 3’ of thread to work 1 row of right-angle weave 19 units long, using В for the top and bottom and C for the sides of each unit. Check to see that it fits snugly around the rivoli, leaving a 1-bead-wide gap for finishing. Weave a second row using В and C as before. Use 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 43
В to work 1 more round. Use В and fol- low a right-angle-weave thread path to join the row ends ( Fig. 6). Fig. 6: Weave through all the top В and pull tight to form a cup (Fig. 7). Place the bezel face down into the cup. Fig. 7: Weave through beads to exit from IB on the opposite edge of the ring. Use В to work 1 round of right-angle weave. Weave through all the top В as before and pull tight to enclose the rivoli. Weave through the beads to exit from IB on the top of the initial row. String 1A and pass through the next B. Repeat around to embellish the edge of the bezel (Fig. 8). Set aside. a 3) ASSEMBLY. Use the beading wire to string 1 crimp tube and 8C. Pass back through the tube and crimp, leaving a 1” tail. String {1 bicone, 1 spacer. 1 beaded bead. 1 spacer. 1 bicone, 1 spacer. 1 nugget, and 1 spacer) six times. String 1 bicone. 1 spacer, 1 beaded bead, 1 spacer. 1 bicone, 1 crimp tube, and 30C or enough C to fit snugly around the bezel. Pass back through the tube, snug the beads, and crimp. Use Г of thread to secure the strand’s 8-bead loop to the back of the bezel. Secure the thread and trim close to Fig. 8: RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystal beads and rivoli, seed beads, spacers, and wire: Out on a Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com. FireUne braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. 44 beadworkmagazine.com
Tips from Top Beadwork Designers Who wouldyou most like to have sitting elbow to elbow with you at your beading table asjou puzzle through the intricacies of learning neu. stitches, choosing color and materials, translating inspiration to design, and adding finishing touches? Well just bet that many ofiyou would feel 'ikeyou'd achieved Nirvana if one or more ofyour favorite well-кпои. n bead designers arrived on the scene, ready to spill their hard-won secrets. r We had far more tips than we could fit into this special issue (all of our contributors teach and have oodles to share). Due into this LJf great collection of beadworking tips generously contributed by ’ fourteen of our favorite experts and find the tips that set you free! OUR I HaNKS GOTO TH! I AHI LOUS ! OU Rf tt'»‘ - N t 4 < M’- iN<J J ' CAM | >. CARO! HUBER CYPHER (CHC), LYNN DAVY (ID). MARCIA DECOSTER <4DCk MARGIE DEER (MD), DUNE FlT/GFRAl П (DF). LISA KAN (LK), TINA КСПАМЛСГК1 Kate MCKjxnON <KM). RaCHE.L. NELSON-SMITH (RNS). CAROLE OHL (CO), CYNTHIA RlTlTDCl <CBL AND JENNIFER VANBENSCHOTEN (JVB). Earth 2/ Sky by Marcia DeCoster— instructions □n p. 42 itches I) While learning right-angle weave, its easier to see _ use two contrasting colors—one color for the side beads and a sec эпа . . . г *. - ir: p and bottom. When working а Па! piece, pass a needle through all the bone — 1 previous row. This will help to keep the units straight so you can easilv - <* MDC 2) Pinch the beads you string for the first two ГОНЗ of pe^te -n:r. ie thumb and forefinger of your nondominant hand. Keep them pincr.e - rk rhe third row, only allowing the bead you need to pass through exposed T“. - - . . jni start on your first few rows.—JC All photographs by Ann Swanson and 3) When working with patterns in peyote stitch, create a “Bead Lu>t <_ки<4е" to help identify the row you are working on. To make it, photocopy your pattern ar.-- row with a black marker. Photocopy the last 2 to 3 rows on a transparency shee: _ . and tape it to a magnetic strip. Place your pattern on a metal stand, such as those nsec ' — t * derers, and place the Bead Line Guide over your pattern. With the up' and down be*ds cn the г-ude. it is easy to keep track of the row on which you are working.—DE Jim Lawson. 46 beadworkmagazine.com
♦J Learn how to transition from one bead stitch to another. This allows more flexibility in the type of design you can execute and will make a design more voluminous, fluid, and less one-dimensional. Two of my favorite stitches are right-angle weave and herringbone. I also utilize the picot stitch to add a lacy feel to my work or to connect one compo- nent to the next. 1 recommend Carol Wilcox Wells's book Creative Beading as a guide to how to switch from one bead stitch to another.—LK 5 ) When learning a new bead stitch, use larger E beads and yarn so you can better visualize the thread path. Jump- ing right into size 15° beads is not for everyone and most de- signs can be modified to the beader’s style or technique.—LK О/ Each beadweaving stitch has attributes that make it ideal for certain effects and other characteristics that make it less suitable for other effects. Combining stitches will give you the greatest agility of all. Currently, my favorite beadweaving technique is combining peyote (for stiffness and sculpting) with right-angle weave (for drape and access to working on every side).—TK r J Right-angle weave is a wonderful stitch but. when done in a 2X2 lattice, doesn'i allow for really sturdy finished ends. J love to finish lattice RAW with a segment of 2X2 square stitch. Mv favorite finish for this is to sew the square-stitched section into a tube and connect the ends with a clasp that I call the Ram’s Hom. This is a fabulous finish for a piece: it’s strong, Heavenly Hibiscus by Scarlett Lanson— instructions on p. 82 bound for long wear, and if used with a removable clasp, protects the bead- work from a sewn clasp attachment. I fully in my Modem Art bracelet, which will be featured in the December 2009/January 2010 issue of Beadivork.—KM [Editors Note: The Ram s Hom clasp и available m two sizes from www.katemcktnnon.com.] I 8) When working in any stitch, tension is key and depends upon the final function of the beadwork. Use high tension for short embellishments and headwork that wall not move; medium tension for flat or tubular beadwork over a form; f HI Drop by Nancy Cain— instructions on p. 26 and finally, low’ tension for long, hanging fringe. When stitching in a bead or series of beads, pull up the thread slack in the same trajectory as it extends off the beadwork. Tucking the index finger of the non- needle hand near the point where the thread exits the beads can help wath this— similar to the function of the thread guide or tension control as it interacts with the thread take-up of a sewing machine. When working in tubular and circular peyote stitch, maintain an even tension so that when you come around for the following round, the beads of the previous round are laid neatly in their posi- If the tension is low. beads of a previ- ous round will flop around, and it will be easy to lose the correct spot in the stitch and/or pattern.—RNS 9) When 1 am stitching with bead to breathe” between rows. I make sure there is a little bit of space be- tween each row instead of stitching the beads tight up against each other. If there is any beading foundation showing after I am finished. I'll color it using fabric inks or dyes or permanent markers.—JVB 10) Sampling is the best way to learn, as we beaders are very visual learners. Start a sampler notebook, reminiscent of the early fabric samplers, which were used as a stitching dictionary. My sampler has beadwork attached to fabric, but yours could be in a note- book or a file. I work in highly contrasting beads so that I can see what is happening. Size 8°, ll°, and 15° Delicas are used for most of my samples. I make notes on what I did to make each of the samples so that I can refer to them as needed.—CR 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 47
11) Foolproof method of adding a new thread: Stop bead- ing when the thread becomes 6 to 8 inches short. Place a needle on a newr thread. Use a stop bead, marking an 8-inch tail. Pass through the same bead that has the abandoned thread dangling from it and in the same direction. You may want to tie a knot joining the two threads. Work a couple rows/rounds with the new thread. Weave the abandoned thread into the new bead- work. Remove the stop bead and weave the new tail into the previous beadwork. (Old into new. new into old.)—CHC 1 2) I find it's easiest to work spiral stitches such as spiral rope (particularly double or triple) by stringing the core beads first, then adding the outer stitches to form the spiral, if you’re using beading wire to string the core, don't secure the crimps at either end until all the stitching is done: It's very easy to under- or over-estimate how much space the extra thread passes will take. To achieve a flexible spiral with no bare wire showing between the core beads, use a bead stop at either end until all the spiral stitches are in place, then snug the core beads and put the crimps in place.—LD jump start on your own beading color ^signing with Color 13) Color inspiration is everywhere. Notice the colors that are mixed and blended in many things readily available in your home, such as cloth napkins, table- cloths, a favorite printed shirt or dress, or even mail- order catalogs with clothing and home furnishings.—MDC sketchbooks with me at all times to record color combinations (and other inspira- tions). When noting combinations you like, be sure to record the relative pro- portions of each color. Proportions can make or break a color scheme. Don’t ust color a swatch of mustard, a swatch of olive, and a swatch of aqua in your sketchbook. How' much mustard? W'hat is the dominant color? Which is the accent? And which colors touch one another? These minute details are critical to great color schemes.—MD 1 6) When design- stitch together small swatches of the beads I am going to use. No matter how much we know about color, glass is tricky when it comes to reflection, refraction, and absorption of light (therefore color). You never know’ how the beads will influence each other once they are stitched together. I tape these swatches to white cardboard, along with handwritten notes and observations, slide each into hole- punched plastic sleeves, and store them in a three-ring binder.—MD Waves of Pearls ►/Jl variation by R MiwakoNaia- ИР instructions on p. 22 17) Begin by selecting your favorite color that is appropriate for the project. Then determine what its opposite would be on the color wheel. For your third color, add lime green to your 18) The more I look at beadwork, the more I realize the importance of contrast, including both contrast • : texture and contrast of hue. Contrast of texture is created bv mixing cylinder beads or even large seed beads with small seed beads. If a large focal bead is textured, set r ff -cth smooth beads on either side. Without contrast to define shapes or create lines, beadw'ork can become a mudd r : beads that lack interest.—DF 19) 1 think any more than three accent colors makes a piece look too busy. Within each accen: c .: - • here are varying hues that one can use for blending and .те .ring visual textures. The following are some fail-safe co.: - . - mbinations: green and aqua, green and cranberry, purr - : green, pur- ple and teal, purple and cranberry, purpie and b: topaz and purple, green and topaz, cranberrv and topa.-. and urquoise and topaz.—LK 20) When selecting accent colors. I twist strar. together to see how’ thev blend. I try not to choose beads of the same the beads, wonderful texture can he achieved u can add volume and dimension to your work bv utihnag this concept. Besides using different shapes and size? I c-r - - - lect beads of varying hues in the same color famii- for .texture. For instance, if you are working with purple — ~ * main color, use lavender, lilac, amethyst, plum, magenta, or maroon as well.—LK 48 beadworkmagazine.com
21) Look through home decor and fashion magazines and catalogs—designers have been paid to create beautiful color- ways for these photos, so take advantage of them. I cut out photos of inspiring colorways and paste them into a notebook for easy reference. I also love to use fabrics and variegated yarns for color inspiration.—TK 22) Designing with color is generally just a matter of finding tones that work together—whether you are trying for a comple- mentary color pop (in that case, look for colors that are on the opposite side of the color wheel from each other) or tones that blend—and look different in different lights. I usually swatch when I am unsure about how colors work together: you can easily be fooled by beads that have a colored clearcoat or a special finish because they may behave much differently than expected when seated next to other beads in a finished piece. Swat chi ng is always vour best bet. and if you are consistent with your swatch sizes, you can save your samples and make patch- worked pieces with them.—KM 23) Rich, deep colors accented with metallic finishes convey sophistication. Bright and light colors convey frivolity and call for attention. Tones in browns and greens suggest an earthy and relaxed nature. White is for purity and freshness and possessing clantv.—RNS 24) When you find a palette that works for you. make a note of it. Then on another project, try to expand the palette or change the palette bs adding a new “spark” color or contrast- ing color. Sample it'—CR 25) I love to collect the paint-chip samples in hardware stores. The colors are so .ibrant and they are usually grouped by family and hue. I punch holes in them and attach them to a ring so that I can carry my little color sample book with me whenever I am bead shopping or trying to match colors for a new project.—JVB ©jading Materials 26) If you’ve ever spent time looking to re- place a bead used years ago vou’U value hav- ing a repair kit in place. At the end of each project, I put together a repair kit with a few of each bead used.—M DC 27) Japanese seed beads have great uniformity for bead- weaving, but don’t underestimate the Czech seed bead. They aren't as uniform, bu: provide prea: texture for beadwoven projects and are a less expensive alternative for strung projects.—JC 28) The time you put into your beadwork deserves the best you can afford. This applies especially to scissors: Buv high- quality scissors and hide them from everyone—unless you are using FireLine. Then get the cheapest “child's'* scissors from a dollar store.—DF 29) Don’t feel that you have to buy the most expensive stone strand. Some great accent beads can be found in bargain bins. Slight imperfections and blemishes to the beads can add to your overall design. Just don't make these beads the main focus but rather accents. The main highlight should be quality beads, which will bring additional value to the finished design. Vintage beads and beads scavenged from old necklaces can also add allure and offer a neat history behind the design. -LK 30) Pick beads for their shape and color first and findings for their uniqueness.—LK 31 ) Unless you want maximum glitz, don't select all faceted beads. I like to mix faceted and unfaceted, shiny and matte, polished and unpolished beads in the same design. Matte, unpolished, and unfaceted beads balance the highlights.—LK 32) I ’m always tempted to buy all my favorite colors that a bead comes in. But for the purpose of designing, it’s more useful to have a variety of sizes and shapes than it is to have a wide color range. go for lots of different sizes and shapes tn a particular type of bead. Then I add more colors later as my budget allows.—TK 33) Through experience. I've learned that pieces designed for reproduction must be planned with cost and sourcing in mind. In planning a repeatable piece. I ask three questions: Is Continued on page 140 41 Favorite Jewelry Desijrns 49
necklace rivolis in bloom LAURA MCCABE A- Л Laura strives to meld beadweaving techniques for a multicultural approach to bead art. This particular piece incorporates peyote stitch (which is both Native American and ancient Egyptian in origin) with herringbone stitch (which originated with the Ndebele tribe of South Africa). The necklace uses ancient techniques and vintage crystal stone to create a historically inspired piece with a modern fare and color sense. TECHNIQUES :: tubular and fiat peyote stitch bone stitch :: picot See pull-out stitch guide between pp 48-49 for helpful technique inforrnaTion. 50 beiidworkniagaztnc.com
BEZELS 1) RED BEZEL. Use red gold cylinder beads, size 15°s. and charlottes to make a tubular peyote-stitched bezel that surrounds the rivolis: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 5 of waxed thread to string 28 red gold cylinders, leaving an 18" tail. Tie the beads into a loose circle with 1 bead's width of thread showing; pass through the first few' beads to hide the knot. Round 3: Work 1 cylinder in each stitch. Step up by passing through the first bead in this round. Round 4: Work 1 root beer size 15° in each stitch, pulling the thread tight to create a cupped shape; step up (Fig. l). Note: Work an additional round, if necessary, to ensure the rivoli is securely surrounded with beads. Rg. 1: IVoHingRoiinj Round 5: Work I charlotte in each stitch, pulling the thread very tight to cinch the beads. Front side: Weave through the beads to exit from Round I. Place the rivoli right side up inside the beadw'ork and hold it in place with your thumb as you repeat Rounds 4 and 5 to close up the front of the bezel (Fig. 2). Weave through beads to exit from the last round of cylinders on the back of the bezel and set aside. Fig. 2:f - it'.: :h. . Repeat entire step to bezel the remaining red rivolis. 2) GREEN BEZEL. Repeat Step I to work the green bezels much like the red bezels, with the following differences: Rounds 1 and 2: String 36 green gold cylinders; tie a loose circle, leaving a 15-20" tail. Round 3: Work I green cylinder in each stitch. Round4: Work I root beer size 15° in each stitch. Rounds: Work I olivine size 15° in each stitch. Round6: Work I charlotte in each stitch; pull snug and exit from the first round. Front: Repeat Rounds 4—6 to dose up the front of the bezel, secure the thread, and set aside. Repeat entire step for each of the remaining 14mm green rivolis. 3) BLUE BEZEL. Repeat Step I with the following differences: Rounds 1 and 2: String 46 blue gold cylinders; tie into a loose circle. leavinga I5-20” tail. Round 3: Work I blue gold cylinder in each stitch. Rounds 4 and S: Work I root beer size 15° in each stitch. Round 6: Work I charlotte in each stitch; pull snug and exit from the first round. Front: Work 3 rounds of root beer size I5°s. then I round of charlottes; secure the thread and set aside. Repeat entire step for the remaining 18mm blue rivoli. PENDANTS 4) SIDEWALL. Connect each pair of be- zeled rivolis with a peyote-stitched tube: With the tail exiting from the last round of cylinders at the back of a red bezel, string I red gold cylinder bead and pass through the next bead in the same round. Repeat around and step up through the first bead added in this step so you have a circle of beads sticking out around the bezel (Fig. 3). Continue with MATERIALS 3 g root beer gold luster size 15° seed beads 3 g silver-lined apple green size 15 ‘ seed beads 1 g blue purple gold luster size 15 seed beads 1 g silver-lined olivine size 15° seed beads 6 g gold 24k size 15a charlotte seed beads 3 g red gold iris 24k size 11 ° cylinder beads 5 g green gold iris 24k size 11 ® cylinder beads 3 g blue gold iris 24k size 11° cylinder beads 20 g root beer gold luster size 11 seed beads 144 crystal AB 2mm crystal rounds 4 volcano red 12mm crystal rivolis 4 Sahara green 14mm crystal rivolis 2 Saturn blue 18mm crystal rivolis 8 burgundy 6mm round pearls 6 chartreuse 6mm round pearls 4 abalone blue 8mm round pearls 60 chartreuse green 8-10mm keishi pearls 30 burgundy 8-10mm keishi pearls 20 abalone blue 10-12mm keishi pearls Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Natural or synthetic beeswax TOOLS Size 12 and 13 English beading needles Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 18” Fig. 3: Starting :iu- nd-, ivn" red gold cylinders to work 3 more rounds of peyote stitch (work 5 rounds for the green rivolis and 7 rounds for blue), forming a tube (Fig. 4). Connect the last round of this tube to the last round of cylinders at die back of a matching bezel, zipping them together back-to-back. Fig. 4: Working the sidewall 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 51
5) BAIL. Exit from the middle round of the sidewall’s connecting tube; use red gold cylinders to peyote-stitch a strip 2 beads wide by 24 rows long (2X24 for green and 4x24 for blue). Zip the first and last rows together to create the bail loop. For a picot edging, exit from one edge of the bail strip and string 3 char- lottes, pass through the next edge bead and to the other side of the strip; repeat for the entire bail loop (Fig. 5). Fig. 5: Adding picot 6) PEARL WREATH. Exit from the next bead in the middle round of the sidewall next to the bail. String 1 root beer size 11°. 1 burgundy keishi pearl, and 1 char- lotte; pass back through the pearl and size 11° and through the next bead in the same round (Fig. 6). Repeat around to the other side of the bail, placing a pearl fringe between each bead in the middle round of the sidewall (13 red. 17 green, and 21 blue with 2 size ll°s under each blue pearl). Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 6: Attncnu:v; I pc:;i ’ NECKLACE 7) TOGGLE RING. Use 5' of thread to string 48 red gold cylinders, leaving a 15" tail. Tie a square knot to form a loose circle of beads, leaving 2-3 beads' width of thread showing. Use red gold cylinders to work 1 round of peyote stitch, work 2 rounds of apple green size 15°s, and 2 rounds of charlottes. Pull the thread tight to snug the beads. Weave through beads to exit from the first round and work 2 rounds of apple green size 15°s and 1 round of charlottes. Zip the first and last rounds of charlottes together to form a solid ring. Ring ball: Weave through beads to exit from the middle outer round of the ring. Use red gold cylinders to repeat Step 5, peyote-stitching a strip 2 beads wide by 20 rows long. Add green keishi pearl fringe around the ring as in Step 6. Secure the thread and trim. 8) TOGGLE BAR. Use 3’ of thread to string 12 green gold cylinders, leaving a 6" tail. Work a strip of flat peyote stitch 12 beads wide by 12 rows long. Zip the first and last rows to form a tube. Exit from a bead at one end of the tube. End cap: String 1 apple green size 15°, 1 burgundy 4mm pearl, and 3 blue purple size 15°s; pass back dirough the pearl and pull snug to form a picot with the blue purple size 15°s. ’String 1 apple green size 15°; pass down through the next bead and up through the following bead at the end of the tube. String 1 apple green size 15°; pass through the pearl, the picot beads, and back through the pearl. Repeat from * for a total of 6 size 15°s around the end of the tube (Fig. 7). Repeat for the other end of the tube. Fig. 7: Capping ont ind of r/ь toggle ba> Bar bail: Exit from the fifth bead near the center of the tube. Use green gold cylinders to peyote-stitch a bail 2 beads wide by 20 rows long. Embellish the edges as before, secure the thread, and trim. 9) ROPE. Use sizell°s (A) and 2mm rounds to work a tubular hernng- bone-stitched rope: Round 1: Use 5' of thread to string 8A (Beads 1-8), leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the first bead strung to form a circle. Round 2: String 2A and pass through Bead 2. Skip over Beads 3 and 4 and pass through Bead 5. String 2A and pass through Bead 6. Skip over Beads 7 and 8 and pass through Bead 1. Pass through the first bead added in this step (Fig. 8). Rounds 3-57: Work tubular herringbone stitch for 334”. To add some sparkle, randomly incorporate a 2mm round in place of a size 11° seed bead, about one every 3-6 rows. First pendant: String 1 burgundy round pearl, ЗА. a red pendant (the bail will cover the seed beads), and 1 burgundy round pearl. String2A and continue with herringbone stitch, passing back through the bail beads to stitch through 2 tube beads before the pearl, then through the bail beads again to string the next 2A. and repeat (Fig. 9). Once Fig. 9; < you have 4 beads on top of the last pearl, continue tubular herringbone stitch, passing through the beads so that they are centered with the pearl. 52 beadworkmagazine.com
Second pendant: Work 15 rounds of tubular herringbone. Add a 14mm green pendant in the same manner, using chartreuse round pearls. Use size U°s and 2mm rounds to work 15 rounds of tubular herringbone stitch as before. Middle pendant: Work 15 rounds of tubular herringbone, then add the 18mm blue pendant, using crystal abalone pearls and stringing 7A between the pearls to accommodate the blue pendant s wider bail. Work the second half of the necklace in reverse sequence. 10) CLASP. Start a new' thread at one end of the rope. String I abalone, I chartreuse, and I burgundy round pearl. String 17 blue purple size I5°s and the toggle bar bail. Pass back through the 3 pearls and into the end of the rope. Following the herringbone thread path, weave through all the beads several times to reinforce, making sure the beads are centered with the pearls. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat at the other end of the rope to secure the toggle ring. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Swarovski aysta! rivofc: Laura McCabe Jewelry, www iauramccabe jewelry.com. FireLine bnvded beading thread: FusionBeads com. (888' 781-3559 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 53
necklace BARBARA CLAYTOR color-play necklace TECHNIQUES right-angle-weave variation See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48—49 for helpful technique information. The intricate-looking knots are actually quite simple: stitch a longstrip of beadwork and tie it into knots. Experiment with seed-bead color, type, and size to alter the design and developjiour own unique look. 54 beadworkmagazine.com
1) STRIP. Use the colors outlined below to work a strip of beadwork 3 rows wide and 51” long: Row 1 top: Use 6' of thread to string 4L. leaving a 6” tail. Tie a knot to form a circle (and the first unit) and pass through the first bead strung. *String ЗА and 4L; pass through the first L just strung to form the second unit (Fig. 1). Repeat from * eleven times. —у *:“© X Working in the same stitch. work 10 units of L with 3B be- R8 1:S«ertlnj«ow 1 tween each: 9 units of L with ЗА between each; 10 units of M with 3C between each: 6 units of L with ЗА between each; 3 units of \ with 3D between each; 10 units of О with 3D between each; 6 units of N with 3D between each; 3 units of P with 3E be- tween each; 10 units of Qwith 3E be- tween each; 6 units of P with 3E between each; 3 units of R with ЗА between each: and 10 units of S with 3B between each. Work 6 units of R with 4A between each. Work 10 units of T with 3K between each for the center of the strip. Repeat entire step in reverse order for the other half of the strip. Row 1 bottom: Weave through the beads to exit from the bottom L of the last unit. String ЗА and pass through the bottom L of the next unit (Fig. 2). Repeat, adding size ll°s across the row in the 4 following sequence: 31 stitches Rg-2: the . . _ . bottom of Row T with ЗА; 9 stitches with 3F; 7 stitches with ЗА; 3 stitches with 3D; 9 stitches with 3H; 7 stitches with 3D; 3 stitches with 3E: 9 stitches with 3G: 7 stitches with 3E; 3 stitches with 3J; 9 stitches with 31. 6 stitches with 3J; 2 stitches with 4J. Continue working in this manner for the second half of the strip, reversing the color sequence. Row 2 top: String 3L; pass through the bead just exited to form a circle (and the first unit of this row'). Tie a knot between beads of the first row to make the turnaround (Fig. 3). Pass back bead just exited, *the Fig. 3: Starting the top of Row 2 through the next 3 size IPs. and the next size 8°. String 3L. Pass through the bead just exited and repeat from * down the length of the strip, always stringing the same type of bead you last exited for each unit (fig. 4). Fig. 4: Working the top of Row 2 Row 2 bottom: Repeat Row* 1 bottom. Row 3 top: Repeat Row 2 top. Row 3 bottom: Work as for Row 1 bottom, but match the size 11° color sequence used in Row 1 top. Ends: Square the strip’s end by stitching LA between the Ls at the corners and 2A between the rows (fig. 5). Repeat at the opposite end. Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 5: St r thing the ends 2) KNOTS. Tie an overhand knot with the center of the beadwork. Tie 6 more knots up each side of the strip, taking care to keep the beaded strip flat between knots. Make adjustments as necessary to keep the knots evenly spaced and point- ing in the same direction. MATERIALS 20 g transparent periwinkle AB size 11 seed beads(A) 5 g white-lined periwinkle size 11' seed beads(B) 5 g transparent light sapphire AB size 1T seed beads (C) 10 g light blue-lined topaz size 11* seed beads(D) 10g transparent topaz AB size 11 seed beads(E) 5 g aqua-lined light blue size 11 “ seed beads (F) 5 g peach-lined dear size 1T seed beads (G) 5 g lime green-lined aqua size 11 ° seed beads(H) 5 g pink-lined light blue size 11” seed beads (I) 5 g opaque periwinkle size 11е seed beads (J) 5 g silver-lined red matte size 11 ° seed beads (K) 20 g transparent teal AB size 8° seed beads (L) 5 g aqua-lined light blue size 8" seed beads (M) 5 g bright teal-lined dear size 8° seed beads (N) 5 g mint-lined jonquil size 8° seed beads (O) 5 g transparent topaz AB size 8° seed beads (P) 5 g orange-lined jonquil size 80 seed beads (Q) 5 g pink-lined purple size 8° seed beads (R) 5 g silver-lined Ceylon iris size 8° seed beads (S) 7 g silver-lined red AB size 6° seed beads (T) 1 brass 14x32mm sew-on hook-and-eye clasp Crystal 10 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Size 10 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 21” 3) CLASP. Start Г of thread at one end of the necklace. Securely sew on one half of the clasp to the end units in each row. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat for the other side of the necklace, taking care to keep the clasp halves on the same side of the strip. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and all beads and findings: Bead Haven, (757) 262-0162, www.beadhavenva.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 55
necklace chocolate and % roses pendant RENELDE NAPOLI •. э -ч г* Jj* Learn two- needle right-angle weave (without the needles!) while making a crystal open-back bezel embellished with several layers of beads to create a beautiful antique-looking circular pendant. Just change the colors andjou can make them to Jit any event, big or small! TECHNIQUE two-needle ri angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 43-49 for helpful technique information #.АЙл%';:Л W '• />'Ж< . . ’ . ' • ’/j * * . ’ r,< 1 * .j у -t Л*Ъ a »*<I *v e ’Vzs/ifX 56 beadworkmaganne corn
1) BEZEL FRONT. Frame the front of the rivoli crystal with cylinder beads (A), light rose 4mm bicones (D). and alabas- ter 4mm bicones (C). using two-needle right-angle weave, one thread at a time: Unit 1: Use 8’ of thread to string ID. IC, I A. and IC: slide the beads to the center of the thread and pass through the ID. IC. and IA again, leaving a 4’ tail (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working Unit 1 Units 2-12: String 1A. IC. and ID; pass back through the nearest IC of the previous unit and through the 1A just strung (Fig. 2); repeat around for a total of 12 units. Fig. 2: Completing Unit 2 Unit 13: String lA and pass up through the nearest IC of Unit I: string ID and pass down through the IC of Unit 12 and through the lAjust strung (Fig. 3); set this thread aside. Fig. 3: Finishing the front of the bezel 2) BEZEL BACK. Flip the work over and place the rivoli facedown in the center; use the tail thread to work a layer on top of the previous round, using cylinder (A) and fire-polished (E) beads, sharing bicones of the previous round for each unit, and enclosing the rivoli between the rounds: Unit 1: Using the 4' tail thread exiting from the first ID. string IE. 1A. and IE; pass through the same bicone again and the IE and 1A. Unit» 2-12: String 1A and IE; pass back through the next ID of the previous round, the IE of the previous unit, and the lAjust strung (Fig. 4). Repeat for a total of 12 units. Fig. 4: Working the back of the bezel Unit 13: String 1A and pass through the nearest IE of Unit 1, through the ID of the previous round, the IE of the previous unit, and the lAjust strung. Centers: Pass through all the cylinder beads in the center to snug the work around the rivoli (Fig. 5); repeat with the other end of the thread on the front of the bezel. Weave each thread through beads to exit from the opposite side of an edge bicone. Fig. 5: Reinforcing the center 3) OUTER PEARLS. Work pearl units around the previous round using two threads at a time: Unit 1: With the beadwork faceup, use the left thread to string I pearl; use the other thread to string 2 pearls and pass back through the other pearl and through the next outer bicone (Fig. 6). MATERIALS 2 g bronze matte size 11’ cylinder beads (A) 26 rose 3mm bicones (B) 17 rose alabaster 4mm bicones (C) 19 light rose AB 4mm bicones (D) 13 light rose AB 4mm fire-polished rounds (E) 26 bronze 6mm crystal pearls 1 rose 14mm crystal foil-back rivoli Clear 0-24mm nylon thread 1 brown 15-strand necklace TOOLS Scissors Knotting tweezers Bead reamer (optional) FINISHED SIZE: PA X 2 ” (PENDANT) Fig. 6: Adding the first unit of pearib Units 2-13: Use the left thread to string I pearl; use the right thread to string I pearl and pass back through die other pearl and through the next outer bicone; repeat around (Fig. 7) . Work the last unit by stringing I pearl and crossing the threads through the first pearl. Fig. 7: Completing Unit 2 with pearls 4) EMBELLISHMENTS. Work through the inner pearls to add seed bead crosses, then add crystals along the edge, between the outer pearls: 41 Favorite jewelry Designs 57
Seed-bead crosses: Use the left/inner thread (the end exiting toward the center) to string2A. IB. and 4A; pass through the next pearl, exiting toward the center (if needed, use the tweezers to pull the thread through the pearl). Use the right/outer thread to string 4 A and pass back through the last IB; string 2A and pass through the next pearl, exiting toward the outside (Fig. 8,). Repeat around, then weave through beads to exit from opposite sides of an edge pearl. Fig. 8: Working the seed-beaded crosses (indicated in blue and red) and crystal edge (indicated in purple) Crystal edge: Use one thread to string IB and pass through the nearest pearl; repeat around, pulling the beads snug to dome the pendant (Fig. 8). Use the other thread to pass back through all the edge beads, exiting so that the threads are crossed through the 5) BAIL. Work a strip of right-angle weave for the bail: String 4A on each thread: use one thread to string 1C and pass the other thread back through it. *String IA. ID. and IAon each thread use one thread to string 1C and pass the other end back through it. Repeat from * twice. String 4A on each thread and pass each thread through opposite sides of the same edge pearl (Fig. 9). Fig. 9: Attaching the end of the bail Weave each thread through the bail twice again to reinforce or until you can no longer fit the threads through the beadb and trim close. Use the necklace to string the bail. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Necklace and Swarovski rivoli cabochon: Bncol'Art, info@bricc4art.be.. www.bricolart.be. Seed beads, Swarovski crystal bicones and pearls, fire-polished rounds, and thread: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. The back of the pendant. 58 beadworkmagazine.com
necklace -** в -Л • A egyptian collar SHELLEY NYBAKKE This might)/ necklace’s multilayer right-angle-weave rectangles are woven separately and then connected with loops of beads, i TECHNIQUE :: right-angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 60 beadworkmagazine.com
(the loop halves will begin to stack). Weave through beads to exit from the rectangle s third side bead. Loops 3 and 4: Connect the 2 rectangles as before, stringing*! seed beads. 2 cubes, and 4 seed beads for the front and back halves of the loop. Weave through beads to exit from the first rectangle s next side bead. Loops 5 and 6: Repeat as before, stringing 4 seed beads, 3 cubes, and 4 seed beads for each half of the loop. Loops 7 and 8: Repeat as before, stringing 4 seed beads. 4 cubes, and 4 seed beads for each half of the loop. Loop 9: Repeat as before, stringing 4 seed beads. 5 cubes, and 4 seed beads for each half of the loop. Repeal entire step five times to connect a total of 7 rectangles. Connect 3 rectangles to one end of the necklace, replacing the 4 seed bead/ cube/4 seed bead sequences with 6 seed bead/cube/6 seed bead sequences; repeat to add 3 rectangles at the other end of the necklace in the same manner. 3) END LOOPS. Form seed-bead loops to connect the ends of the necklace to die square links: Start 6’ of thread so it exits up through the middle Layer 1 horizontal bead on the long side of one end of the necklace. String 14 seed beads and 1 square link and pass through the last rectangle bead exited. Weave through beads to exit down through the next Layer 1 horizontal side bead (Fig. б). Fig. 6: .-hrnj one end n> J Unit String 14 seed beads; pass through the square link in the same direction as before and down through the rectangle bead last exited. Weave through beads to exit up through the next Layer 1 hori- zontal side bead. Repeat entire step down the side using 16-18 seed beads instead of 14 for the last 2 loops. Weave through beads to repeat the loop sequence on the other half of the same rectangle, making sure all the loops lie in the same direction. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat entire step on the other end of the necklace to attach the remaining square link. 4) CLASP. Add an embellished extender chain and clasp to the links: Extender: Use 1 jump ring to connect 2МГ of chain to 1 of the square links. Chain embellishment: Use the eye pin to string the rondelle and 5mm round: form a wrapped loop that attaches to the free end of the previous chain. Open die eye-pin loop as you would a jump ring and string the head end of the dragonfly link: close the loop. Use the head pin to string 1 seed bead: form a simple loop that connects to the tail end of the dragonfly link (fig. 7). Fig. 7: Embellishing the clasp chain Clasp: Use a jump ring to connect the clasp to one end of Va” of chain. Use the remaining jump ring to connect the free end of the previous chain to the remaining square link. ♦ ... A RUSIIS _ I For added sparse, replace the i cornerless cubes with 3 mm crystal i bicones or rounds. To avoid thread : breakage when working with i crystals switch to a double strand of 101b braided beading thread | and a size 12 needle. nun ——_ — RESOURCES Check eta bead shop or contact: firebne beating ""'ead and all beads anc "he Bead Parlor, (309) 827-7"08 «v* i^ebeadpador.com. 62 beadworkmagazine.com
MAGGIE MEISTER an ancient time. Inspired £ by an ancient Greek necklace, this piece was designed for Silvia, Л the daughter of W Maggie’s friend and teacher, Luciana Notturni. Coin pearls and stones are inlaid within circular peyote stitch, and a tubular herringbone chain evokes the meshlike TECHNIQUES :: circular peyote stitch bone stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. wedding necklace 1) BEZELS. Work circular flat peyote stitch to fit the back of a coin pearl, then work tubular peyote stitch to form a bezel: Round 1: String ЗА and pass through them again to form a circle: tie a square knot with the tail thread. Pass through the first I A. Round2: Work IA in each stitch; step up by passing through the first bead of each round. Round 3: Work 2A in each stitch; step up (Fig. l). Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1-3 Round 4: Repeat Round 2. Round 5: Repeat Round 3. Round 6: Repeat Round 2. The work should be slightly wider than a coin pearl (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Rounds 1-6 Round?: String 1 coin pearl; pass through an “up” bead on the opposite side of the circle, back through the pearl, and through the last bead passed through (Fig. 3). Continue working IA in each stitch. Fig. 3: Adding a pearl 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 63
Round 8: Alternate working 2A. then 1A in each stitch; step up. Note: Work increases or decreases as necessary to f accommodate the shape of the pearl. Round9: Work IA in each stitch; step up. Round 10: Repeat Round 8. Round 11: Work IB in every other stitch. Pull tight to snug the beads around the pearl. Pass through the round again to reinforce, then secure the thread and trim. Repeat for each of the coin pearls. 2) DANGLE. Choose the center pearl and anchor a new thread to exit at the bottom of the bezel. String ЗА. the round white pearl. ЗА. the briolette, and 2A; pull snug and pass back through the fifth-to-last I A, the pearl, and the next IA. String 2A and pass through 2 beads of the bezel: pass through all the beads again to rein- force. Pass through the bezel beads to exit near the lop, at a two o’clock posi- tion (Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Creating the dangle 3) CONNECTING. String I ruby; pass through a side bead on a second bezel, back through the ruby, and through the same bead on the first bezel. Pull snug and repeat the same thread path to reinforce. String enough beads to reach around the side of the ruby, pass through the second bezel, and string beads to reach around the other side of the ruby, back to the first bezel. Work I round of peyote stitch along the side beads. Pass through beads to exit the opposite side of the second bezel (Fig. 5) and repeat to attach a third bezel; secure the thread and trim. Secure a new thread in the center pearl and repeat entire step to attach the remaining rubies and bezeled pearls. 4) CHAIN. Ladder-stitch 6B, leaving a 9" tail. Pass through the first and last beads to use as a founda- tion round to work a herringbone tube that is 6 beads around and 7’/2” long. Ladder- stitch through the last round to close up the end of the tube, then string 2A and pass Fig. 5: Connecting the bezels through the opposite side of the tube to cover the end and serve as a foundation for the clasp; do not trim the threads (Fig. 6a). Use a tail thread to string I vermeil 6mm bead and pass through an edge bead at the top of the last bezeled pearl. Pass through the beads several times to secure, then trim. Repeat with the other tail thread. Fig. 6: Working the clasp loop 5) CLASP. Repeat Step 1 using the faceted pearl, repeating Round 6 twice to form a taller bezel. Exit the center back of the bezel and work a 2-bead ladder to attach one of the herringbone tubes; weave through the beads several times to secure, then trim. 6) LOOP. At the end of the second tube, string 25-30A to form a loop to fit the clasp bead. Pass through the 2A at the end of the tube and the first 2A just strung. String IB. skip IA. and pass through the following IA; repeat around, then secure the thread and trim (Fig. 6b). ♦ MATERIALS 14 g 24ч goki-plated cylinder beads (A) 5 g gold scze 15' seed beads (B) 2 gold verme'l 6mm rounds 4 ruby 8mт faceted rounds 1 ivory 8mm faceted pearl 1 white 8rr.m pearl 5 tvory 12 mm com pearls 1 green 10mm bnoiette Nylon sze D oeadmg thread TOOLS Sue 10 teiz-ng needle Scissors RESOURCES Cheo row коса: bead shop or contact: ’yon hoc.~•£ seed beads and smiar тег-.- ;.s<-E-eacscorn, (888) 781-3SS9 64 beadworkmagazine.com
necklace ice princess LISA KAN TECHNIQUES :: tubular herring- bone stitch :: peyote stitch :: ladder stitch Inspired by Victorian lace, Lisa created graceful peyote loops to adorn a herringbone necklace. Crystal quartz briolette beads cluster like frozen droplets. A hidden wire armature provides support for this romantic and regal creation. • Close any open loops in the connectors before stitching. • Roll excess working thread onto a No-Tangle bobbin to prevent tangling and unroll as needed. See pull-out stitch guide between pp, 48-49 for helpful technique information 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 65
1) HERRINGBONE TUBE. Use 7’ of conditioned nylon thread, the size 12 needle, and charlottes to ladder-stitch 12 beads (6 stacks with 2 beads each). Pass through the 2 beads in both the first and last columns to form a tube, exiting from the top of the first column. Work tubular herringbone stitch for 17". Secure the thread and trim. 2) PICOTS. Add 3-bead picots along one column (Stack 1) of the tube: Stack 1 will be your base column from which your work will develop: Use the size 13 needle and 7* of braided beading thread to pass through the first 3 beads of Stack 1. String 3 beads and pass through the third Stack 1 bead again, forming a 3-bead picot; pass through 6 beads of Stack 1. String 3 beads; pass through the sixth Stack I bead again, forming another picot loop; continue through 6 beads (Fig. l). Repeat for a total of sixty-two 3-bead picots, leaving only 2 beads remaining at the end of the row. Fig. 1: Adding picots to the tube 3) CLOSURE. Work both sides of the closure: Clasp: Exit one end of Stack I. Referring to Fig. 2 (numbers indicate Stack num- bers) , pass back down through I bead Fig. 2: Starting the strip that attaches to the clasp in Stack 2 and up through I bead in Stack 3. String 3 beads (these form the first end picot), pass down through I bead in Stack I, and up I bead in Stack 6. String 3 beads (second end picot beads) and pass down I bead in Stack 4. Pass back up Stack 3 and con- tinue through the first 2 beads strung to exit the tip (mid- dle bead) of the first end picot. String I bead, pass through the tip of the second end picot. string I bead, and pass through the tip of Fig. 3: Attaching the clasp the first end picot to form a circle (Fig. 3a). String 3 beads, one half of the clasp, and 3 beads (Fig. 3b), then pass through the tip on the second picot and through the last 6 beads strung to anchor and center the clasp. Pass through all picot and clasp beads again to secure. Weave ends into beadwork and trim. Loop: Begin 7‘ of braided beading thread on the other end of the tube. Repeat Step 3. omitting the clasp and exiting from the tip of an end picot. String 11 beads and pass through the tip of the other end picot to form a loop. Pass through the first bead of the loop and work I round of peyote stitch with I bead in each stitch (Fig. 4). Pass through beads again to rein- force and cen- Fig. 4: Working the clasp loop ter the loop: secure thread but do not trim. 4) SHAPING. Weave through beads to Stack 4. Pass down through 5-10 beads in Stack 4; pull gently but firmly to adjust the tension. Tie a half hitch knot between beads. Repeat every 5-10 beads in Stack 4. With slight adjustments, the necklace will gradually curve; too much tension will create a kink rather than a curve. Check your tension before tying each half-hitch knot. MATERIALS 7 g geid size 13 charlottes 21 clear 6 5 <7mm crystal quartz top-drilled briolettes 11 gold-tilled 7mm 4-ring connectors with inset cubic zirconia 1 gold-? l ied 13x18mm hinged clasp with inset cubic zirconia Nylon beading thread to match beads Clear 6 lb braided beading thread 7^" of sterling silver 20-gauge wire Beeswax TOOLS Size 12 and 13 beading needles Chain- or flat-nose pliers Round-nose pliers Wire cutters Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 18" 5) BRIOLETTE LOOPS. Create five 3-briolette peyote-stitched loops and 6 single-briolette pevote stitched loops. Work from left to right with the clasp end on your left. All briolette loops are worked off of the tips of the previ- ously formed picots: Using 9’ of braided beading thread (with 2' wrapped on the bobbin and the size 13 needle, exit through the twentieth picot from the clasp. String 5 beads and pass through the middle bead on Picot 21. Single-briolette loop: String the top left ring of the connector. 3 beads, and the top right ring; pass through the tip of Picot 22. String 3 beads, the bottom right ring. 1 bead 1 briolette. 1 bead, the bottom left ring, and 3 beads: pass through the tip of Picc t 21 and the top left ring. Continue through 2 beads above the connector to exit the middle bead between the 2 t p rings. String 3 beads and form a picot counter- clockwise through the middle bead above the connector Fig. 5a). Continue through the third bead. Picot 22. the top right ring. and down through 2 beads or. the right side of the con- nector. Form another 3-bead picot. moving counterclockwise through the center bead again < Fig 5bI. Pass 66 beadworkmagazine.com
through the next bead, bottom right ring, next 3 beads, bottom left ring, and next 2 beads; form a picot on die left side of the connector (Fig. 5c). Weave through beads to exit the tip of Picot 22. String 5 beads and pass through the tip of Picot 23 (Fig. 5d). Picot 21 Picot 22 Fig. 5: Working the jingle-briolette loop Small 3-blolette ioop: Exiting Picot 23, string 29 beads and pass clockwise through the fourth bead str.r.j- form a circle. String 3 beads and pass through the tip of Picot 2 4 Wea. e through the picot to pass back through the 3 beads just strung and tntc the top center bead of the loop. There should be 25 beads in the loop.) Work pevote stitch around the loop, working bead in each stitch. Pass through the toy center bead in the loop, string ’ beads, and pass through the opposite end to form a picot (Fig. 6a). Pass down through the left side of the pevote loop (counterclockwise? to ev.* fr — the sixth high bead. Exit the se-.er. <- high bead. Fig. 6: A small 3-briolette loop String 1 bead, the top right ring of a connector, 1 bead, 1 briolette, 1 bead, the bottom right ring. 1 bead, 1 brio- lette (Fig. 6b), 1 bead, the bottom left ring, 1 bead, 1 briolette, and 1 bead; pass through the sixth high bead and the top left ring. Note: You passed through the peyote loop counterclock- wise but moved in a clockwise motion when connecting the briolettes. Continue counterclockwise around the peyote loop, working 1 bead in each stitch. Pass through the last 2 beads in the loop, through the 3 beads strung before Picot 24. and through the tip of Picot 24. String 5 beads and pass through Picot 25 (Fig. 6c). Work a Single-briolette Loop between Picots 25 and 26. String 5 beads and pass through Picot 27. Medium 3-briolette loop: Repeat as for the Small 3-briolette Loop, but string 33 beads for the peyote loop instead of 29 and work between Picots 27 and 28. String 5 beads and pass through Picot 29. Work a Single-briolette Loop between Picots 29 and 30. String 5 beads and pass through Picot 31. Large 3-briolette loop: Repeat as for the Medium 3-briolette Loop, stringing 37 beads for the loop instead of 33 and working between Picots 31 and 32. String 5 beads and pass through Picot 33. < 'ontinue adding briolette loops in the following order; after each loop is com- pleted. prepare for the next by stringing ' beads and passing through the next p•:. • Work a Single-briolette Loop between Picots 33 and 34. Work a Medium 3-briolette Loop between Pi- c .’s 35 and 36. Work a Single-briolette Lo эр between Picots 37 and 38. Work a ?>mall 3 briolette Loop between Picots 39 and 40. Work a Single-briolette Loop between Picots 41 and 42. String 5 beads: pass through Picot 43. 6) FINISHING. Add additional picots to each side of the 3-briolette loops: ith the clasp to your left, secure 5' of braided beading thread in the herring- bone tube, exiting between the first Sin gle-briolette and Small 3-briolette Loops. *String 3 beads and pass through the first up bead on the left side of the peyote loop. Pass back through the third and second beads just strung, exiting the middle bead. String 3 beads and pass through the tip again, forming another picot (Fig. 7a). Weave through beads to exit the middle bead of the picot cen- tered above the Small 3-briolette Loop. Pass around through a bead in Stack 1 (between two of the picots formed in Step 2) to secure the loop s picot (Fig. 7b). Weave through beads to exit between the next two picots (Fig. 7c) and repeat to form a second picot on the right side of the first Small 3-briolette Loop. Repeat for each remaining 3-briolette loop. Fig. 7: Adding the final picots 7) WIRE. Curve the wire slightly and insert it gently into the herringbone tube near the eighteenth picot, into the hollow inside the tube. Take care not to catch it on any threads; reshape the wire. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Crystal briolettes; Taj Co., (212) 944-6330, www.tajcompany.com. Clasp and connectors: Ezel Jewels, (800) 977-9904, www.ezeljewels com. Beads and Nymo nylon and FireLine braided beading threads; Garden of Beadin', (707) 923-9120, www.gardenofbeadin.com. Wire: Rio Grande, (800) 545-6566, www riogTande.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 67
necklace purple anemone LESLEE FRUMIN a v TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch flat and tubular herringbone stitch :: picot See pulbout stitch guide between pp. 48—19 for helpful technique information. Leslee created this flower with free-form herringbone stitch. She then made a herringbone ribbon necklace based on Leslie Frazier's in the book The Art & Elegance of Beadweaving by Carol Wilcox Wells (Lark Books, 2002). Once attached, her showy flower is a stunning centerpiece. 70 beadworkmagazine.com
1) TWISTED RIBBON. Work tubular herringbone stitch without stepping up at the end of each round; this, combined with the larger size 8C seed beads, will cause the tube to spiral. Keep your ten- sion tight for a more pronounced twist. Ladder base: Use 4 of conditioned single thread to string a tension bead, leaving a 4" tail. Work a 2-bead ladder, stitch- ing 2E. 2A. 2A. 2A 2E. 2B. 2B. and 2B (Fig. l). Pass through the first and last columns to connect the ends, forming a tube and exiting from the top of the 2E. Fig. 1: Working the ladae - • ? Round 1: String IE and I A; pass down through the next 2A and up through the following 2A. String 2A; pass down through the next 2A and up through the following 2E String IE and IB; pass down through the next 2В and up through the following 2B. String 2B: pass down through the next 2 В and up through the following 2E (one bead from the previous round and the first bead strung in this round). Rounds 2 and on: Repeat Round I for a total of 15". stringing 2 beads and passing down through 2 then up through 2 beads for each stitch. Work with a tight tension alter a few rounds, collapse the tube so that the size 8°s become the edges of the double-faced ribbon. Clasp loop: Stitch a strip that is 2 beads uade for 22 rows (or long enough to fit around the button Pass through the strip and the end oi the ribbon several times to secure the loop 1 Fig. 2). 2 2) FLOWER BACK. Work tubular her- ringbone stitch with increases and vari- ous bead sizes to free-form the num petals of the flower, then embellish with Fig. 2: Forming the dasp loop fringe and picots. Secure 4' of thread at the start of the twisted ribbon. Rounds 1-6: Work IOC around, passing down through I bead, then up through the following bead for each stitch; step up by passing through the first bead in each round. Rounds 7-10: Work 6C and 6E; keep a tight thread tension so the smaller beads begin to fold down while the larger beads fan out toward the top. Round 11: Begin increasing by stringing 1 bead between each stitch (Fig. 3). Round 12: String 2 beads between each of the increase stitches in the previous round. Continue increasing by string- ing 2 beads between each stitch above each increase bead of the previous round (Fig. 4). Rounds 13-18: Continue with tubular her- ringbone, stitching 2 beads into each pair of increase beads. Work more increases and change beads as desired, with size ll°s in the front of the tube and 3mm hex beads in the back. Round 19: Form a picot at the tip of each pair of columns by stringing 3D and passing down through 2 beads and up MATERIALS 12g bronze size 11“ seed beads for twist (A) 10 g clear AB size 11е seed beads for twist (B) 5 g total matte size 11 ‘ seed beads in blue and purple for flower (C) 5 g total size 11 ° seed beads, 2mm hex beads, and 2mm fire-polished rounds in blue and purple for flower (D) 8 g gilt-lined lavender size 8‘ seed beads for twisted edge (E) 5 g purple AB 3mm hex beads 10-12 bronze 4mm rounds 4-5 amber/purple 4-5mm fire-polished and pressed-glass accent beads 1 brass 8x1 Omm button with shank Beading thread in colors to match beads Beeswax TOOLS Size 10 or 12 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 173/4” through the following 2 beads for each stitch (Fig. 5). Pass through the round again to reinforce. Fig. 5: Forming the Round 19 picots 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 71
3) CENTER PETALS. Weave through beads to exit from Round 11 on the in- side of the tube. Rounds 20-21: Using size 8°s and stitching through the beads in Round 11. begin a second tube on the inside of the larger tube. Work an increase between each stitch using size ll°s, for a total of 20 herringbone pairs (Fig. 6). Fig. 6: Starting the center petals Rounds 22-28: String 2 beads and pass down to Round 23 for each stitch, creat- ing separate columns of petals; string 1 bead per stitch in the final round (Fig. 7). Fig. 7: Working the petals Eye picots: Exit from the base of the center petal tube. String 3 seed or other accent beads; pass down through one bead and up through the following bead to form a picot. Repeat around the inside of the flower, then repeat again using different beads. 4) ACCENT PETALS. Exit from the back side of the flower, about 3 rounds from the outer edge. String 10-20 size ll°s and pass through the flower to secure them in a line even with the edge. Use these beads as the foundation for more petals, work- ing them until they extend beyond the flower s edge (Fig. 8). Fig. 8: Stitching the accent petals 5) CLASP. Secure the button to the back of the flower near Round 6. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed and hex beads: Beyond Beadery, www .beyondbeadery.com. Glass accent beads: FusionBeads.com. 72 beadworkmagazine.com
necklace ellipse necklace MARCIA DECOSTER This elegant necklace draws visual power from the strong geometry in its curved and layered right-angle-weave pendant. TECHNIQUES :: right-angle weave :: peyote stitch :: picot :: ladder stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp 48-49 for helpful technique information. MAKE A PROJECT WITH A 3-D EFFECT! 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 73
PENDANT 1) SQUARE. Use E to work a right- angle-weave square (Fig. 1a) that will later be turned and used as the pendant s central diamond: Side 1: Use 5' of thread to stitch a strip of right-angle weave 9 units long and 3 rows wide. Side 2: Work 3 units and turn. Work back and forth on these 3 units for a total of 6 short row's (you will now have an L-shaped 9-by-9 unit). Side 3: Weave through beads to exit the inside edge of the final row of Side 2 and work a new row of 3 units. Work back and forth on these 3 units for a total of 6 short rows (you will now have a U-shaped 9-by-9 unit). Side 4: Weave through beads to exit the inside edge of the final row of Side 3 and work 3 units. Work one more 3-unit row. Join the last row' of Side 4 to the beads of Side I to complete the square. 2) ELLIPSES. Working off opposite corners of the square, use E and A to work 2 right angle-weave ellipses: Side 1, Row 1: Weave through beads to exit the third edge bead from a comer. Use 3E to work the first unit. Moving toward the corner, weave a second unit using 1E for the bottom bead and IA for the side bead. On the third unit, use IA for both the bottom and side beads (Fig. 1 b). Side 1, Rows 2-11: Work 3 units across in the same bead-size pattern as Row I. The work will curve. Side 1, Rows 12 and 13: Work 3 units across using all E. Weave through beads to exit the inside edge bead of Row 13. Side 2, Row 1: Work 1 unit of 3E. Moving toward the center of the curve, stitch a second unit using IE for the top bead and IA for the side bead. On the third unit, use IA for both the top and side beads (Fig. 1c). Side 2, Rows 2-9: Work 3 units across in the same bead-size pattern as Side 2, Row I. Join the final row to the corre- sponding 3 edge beads of the adjacent side of the square. Fig. 1: Working the central square and first ellipse Repeat entire step on the opposite corner of the square to create an upper ellipse. Secure the thread and trim. Set the blue pendant layer aside. Repeat Steps 1 and 2. this time using C instead of A. and F instead of E to make the bronze pendant layer. 3) LAYERS AND EDGES. Use Gand right-angle weave to join the layers along their outside edges (each unit will consist of IE, 1G. IF, and 1G). Work 1 row of right-angle weave using E along the entire outside edge of the blue layer. Note: To work the corners, add an additional unit of right-angle weave using 3E (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Working the extra row of E and the point increase MATERIALS 12 metalc soe 15 ’ seed beads 1 g bi-e metai c sere 15 seed beads (A) 2 g dan bronze see 15: seed beads (B) 1 g bronze see * 5 “ex-cut beads (C) 1 g sJver-' ^ec orange size 15 seed beam D 5 g Nue met=Jhc see 11 ’ seed beads (E) 3 g darx ororee 1 ’ seed beads (F) i g i p' brew- A3 sue ’' seed beads (G) 1 g redetsf’ onze size 11 cylinder beads - 12 tope AS crysrz sequins Srro«e- : т ь-oed beading thread TOOLS FINISHED SIZE: 25” WITH I < 5’ FOCAL) 4) BAIL S_ir- :bread that exits from the . ie eoge :f the third unit left of the blue layer’s upper ellipse. Repeat r _ .-.1 f Step 2, using E along the oeade as before and C (in- stead _• •** -7_v.de edge (Fig. 3). Fig. 3 r ’xr i---c Fold the =rrx -X. ~~. : the last row to the sa.— - r. - <7 beads that are attached to jne “nr • Repeat on the other s’.or ' upper ellipse to make t. secocc : mirror the first. 5) EMBEL>SMMENT LINE. Weave throusr. - m an inside C at the tip cf th* -- - -r.er StnnglD: 74 beadworkmagazine.com
ARTIST'S.TIP......... To increase your speed, choose : a manageable thread length no j longer than about 5’. Thread \ longer than this will actually slow ; you down. The time it takes to i weave in a new thread is minimal j compared to the extra pulls | of thread, plus the time spent : to overcome possible tangles. pass through the side 1C of the next row’s adjacent unit. Repeat to create an orange line along the inside edge of the ellipse (Fig. 4a). continuing through the outside edge of the square (Fig. 4b). into the corresponding В of the next ehipse. and up the other side of the square. Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 4: Embellishing r - —: NECKLACE 6) BEADED BEADS. Use sequins, cylinder beads, and seed beads to peyote-stitch a beaded bead Fig. 5): Tube: Use 4 of thread : pey ote-stitch a rectangle 9H wide and 28 rows long. Zip the ends together • form a tube. Weave through beads to exit 1H at the tube’s edge. Picots: String 3E; pass down through the next edge bead and up through the following. Repeat around to add a Fig. 5: Beaded bead eiteieaaeae aaeaeeaeeae аамар^аам AaAkMkal1 №№№№№ 9 < «.f.l total of 7 picots. Repeat to add picots along the other edge of the tube. Weave through beads to exit 1H at the midpoint of the tube. Sequins: String 1 sequin and 1 metallic gold size 15°; pass back through the sequin and through the next 1H. Weave through beads to exit 1H four rows away; repeat to add a total of 6 sequins. Weave through beads to exit from an H edge bead. Rim: Ladder-stitch a strip of 20D. Position the strip along the edge around the tube and stitch the first and last beads together to form a ring. Sew through the strip and the tube edge every few beads to tack the strip in place. Repeat on the other end of the tube. Do not cut the thread. Repeat entire step for a second beaded bead. 7) ROPE. Work a tubular right-angle- weave rope 5 units around and 25” long, using IE for both the top and bottom and IB for the sides of each unit. Before joining the ends together, use the rope to string 1 beaded bead, the bail, and 1 beaded bead. Use the working thread from the beaded beads to sew them into place on the rope. 1 ’/2" from each side of the bail. ♦ ARTIST'S TIPS • Although it is never our intent, occasionally a favorite piece may require repair. In prepara- tion for this possibility, Marcia always fills a ziplock bag with a few of each bead used in the de- sign and labels it with the proj- ect name. These bags live in her '"to repair" drawer should she ever need to utilize their contents. • Marcia finds she is often in- spired to create a palette for a design before she's ready to bead it. She fills a small pencil box with the chosen beads, labels the intended project, and places it in her "to be beaded" pile. RESOURCES Check your local bead store or contact: FireUne braided beading thread and all other beads and findings; The Beading Frenzy, (650) 347-2323, www.thebeadingfrenzy.corn. + 1 Favorite Jewelry Designs 75
necklace back to byzantium JENNIFER VanBENSCHOTEN TECHNIQUES :: tubular herring- bone stitch :: peyote stitch :: brick stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. Jennifer loves ancient jewelry and the challenge c • usmgojf-loom beading techniques to re-create jewelry made a:raditional metal techniques. This particular piece was inspired by c Byzantine-style gold necklace she saw at a museum exhibit severe hears ago. 76 beadworkmagazme.com
1) TRIANGLE BASE. Use 5* of conditioned thread to work a 7" strip of odd-count peyote stitch, following Fig. 1; work 20 bronze -riangles with half of a steel triangle at each end of the strip. Vote: To make the odd-count turn on everyr other row. pas у under the thread that connects the presious rows along the bronze edge, pulling the ’bread tight so that the beadwork will curse slightly along the top edge Fig 1 Fig. 1: Start : 2) DIAMONDS ork '-nek stitch along the bottom edge the trungies. decreas- ing for each steel diamond and increas- ing, then decrees. r.£ * ~ each bronze diamond: Bronze diamond: Exiting the up of a bronze triangle. work ? rows. increas- ing up to 5 bead.- across rk 3 rows, decreasing down 2 At the tip, string I bronze 8mm . -ronze 4mm, and I galvanize: w pass back through the 4mm xr.d 5 mm beads and weave back thr: _£- n- roadwork to work the net* iii— 2a Steel diamond: W< r к - -y decreasing down to 2 beads.. A h- tip string 4 galvanized pass back through the first bead and w-aw through the beadwork to work the - ci- diamond (Fig. 2b). Repea: - — a1 . -a_ :: 39 diamond- r :oiors. 2 beads so that you exit the edge 2 beads away from the previous edge bead (Fig. 2c). Repeat for a total of 39 fringes. Set aside. Fig. 2: Embellishing the base 4) STRAPS. Use bronze hex-cut beads to work an 8" herringbone tube that is 4 beads around. To connect the ends, exit the first bead of the last round and string 7 beads and one half of the clasp. Pass up through the first bead and down through the second bead of the first round. String 7 beads; pass back through the clasp and down through the second bead of the last round. Weave through the tube and clasp beads several times to reinforce, secure the thread, and trim. Repeat entire step to make a second strap, using the other half of the clasp. MATERIALS 5 g galvanized silver size 15° seed beads 15g steel size 110 cylinder beads 15g bronze size 1Г hex cylinder beads 60 bronze 4mm rounds 20 bronze 8mm rounds 40 Bali silver 2.5mm daisy spacers 1 sterling silver 9x20mm hook-and- eye clasp Nylon size D beading thread Thread conditioner TOOLS Size 10 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 15” and w’rap the strip around the strap. Connect the ends of the strip to form a ring, pass through both rows of beads to reinforce, then trim. Slide the ring up toward the clasp, then make a second ring, and slide it down to about ’/?" from the other end of the folded strap. Repeat entire step with the second strap. 6) FINISHING. Secure a thread at one end of the triangle base. Use steel beads to peyote-st itch a strip that is 4 beads w4de and 29 rows long. Pass th» end of the strip through the folded end of a tube and to the back of the base. Weave through the first and last rows of the strip several times to secure, then trim close to the work. Repeat to attach the second tube at the other end of the necklace. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Nymo nylon beading thread, rounds, spacers, and clasp: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems .com. 3) TOP EDGE Em- — m tW top edge of the triangle base ? tea da from one end. String 1 * • me 4mm, and I galvanu- d sjw- - * the 4mm and er c.-: ~ •- rough the next edge --eat i--x me next bead in the previous - - 3 * * * 7 c ~ tr_- oagh 5) STRAP SLIDERS. Use 4’ of thread to string 2 galvanized silver: pass through the beads again and pull snug, leaving a 4" tail. Pass through die first bead again. ♦String 2 beads; pass dirough the previ- ous 2 beads and the first bead just strung. Repeat from ♦ for a strip of twenty-two 2-bead stitches. Fold one strap in half 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 77
necklace crystal brilliance DAENG WEAVER J j ж * SD TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch :: tubular herring- bone stitch :: peyote stitch л See pull-out stitch guidc between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. The chain for this regal-looking necklace -tar- - ; a humble herringbone-stitched rope. The cnsvzl~ seed-bead embellishments add brilliant spare. e complement the crystal focal perfectly. 78 beadworkmagazine.com
ROPE 1) BASE. Use 6’ of thread and В to work a ladder-stitched strip 6 beads long, leaving a 6" tail. Stitch the first and last beads together to form a ring. Use В to work tubular herringbone stitch off the ring for 18Ve". Don t cut the thread. 2) CLASP. Make a button-and-loop clasp at the ends of the rope: Button: String 7A. the button, and 7A. Pass down through the В on the opposite side of the tube. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Loop: Place a needle on the base’s tail thread. String 26A or enough to fit snugly around the button. Pass down through the В on the opposite side of the tube. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 3) EMBELLISHMENT. Start 6' of thread that exits the base up through IB in Round 4- and add embellishment, working in a zigzag pattern down the length of the base: Row 1: String I A. IE. and LA; count 2B to the right and IB up and pass through that B. String I A. 1G. and I A; count 2B to the right and IB down and pass through that В (Fig. 1). Repeat both stitches thirty'-three times (about 8*/2" down the rope or */2" from center), forming zigzag embellishments that attaches to every other round and ending with the I A. IE. and 1A pattern. Fig. ItEmbellnhtr . • Note: Fig. 2 show\ how the beads will align once all four rows have been worked; Fig. 3 shows the turnarounds at the end of each row. Fig. 2: The embellishment pattern Row 2: Weave through beads to pass back through the IB to the right of the last one exited and head back toward the end of the rope (Fig. 3a). String 1A. IE. and 1A; count 2B to the left and IB up and pass through that B. String 1A. 1G, and 1 A; count 2B to the left and IB down and pass through that B. Repeat both stitches for the length of the rope, working a second zigzag. Row 3: Weave through beads to exit IB to the right and 1В up from the last one exited (Fig. 3b). Zigzag down the length of the base as before, beginning with 1A. IE. and 1A Fig. 3: Wbrhing the turnarounds Row 4: Repeat Row 2. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat entire step for the other half of the rope, leaving the center 1" of rope bare. Set aside. PENDANT 4) BEZEL. Use cylinder and seed beads to form a tubular peyote-stitched bezel for the rivoli: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 4' of thread to string an even number (about 64) of C to fit snugly around the edge of the rivoli. Tie a knot to form a circle. Rounds 3-5: Work IC in each stitch; step up through the first bead of each round. Rounds 6 and 7: Work LA in each stitch. Round 8: Work IA in every other stitch. Round 9: Work one 3mm garnet between each IA in the previous round (Fig. 4). MATERIALS 10g metallic gold size 14 seed beads (A) 15 g olive luster AB size 11 cylinder beads(B) 5 g metallic gold size 11° cylinder beads (C) 2 g bronze size 11 cylinder beads (D) 290 garnet 2mm rounds (E) 16 garnet 3mm rounds 16 onyx 2.5mm faceted rounds (F) 274 light rose AB 3mm crystal bicones (G) 22 light rose AB 4mm crystal bicones (H) 1 volcano 4mm crystal sequin 1 crystal-foiled 23mm crystal triangle rivoli 1 cream 12x15mm antique glass burton with metal shank Smoke 6 lb beading thread TOOLS Size 13 and 15 beading needles Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 19” (WITH IVt" FOCAL) Weave through the round again to reinforce: the beadwork should cup slightly. Fig. 4: Adding the garnets Back: Weave through beads to exit IC in Round 1. Place the rivoli facedown in the center of the beadwork. Repeat Rounds 6-8 (Fig. 5). Fig. 5: Peyote-stitching the bach Weave through the last two rounds again, pulling very tight to snug the beaded bezel over the rivoli. Secure the thread and trim. 5) PENDANT PICOTS. Exit from LA of Round 6. String ЗА and pass through the next 1A of Round 6: string 1F and pass through the next 1A of Round 6 (Fig. 6). Repeat around the bezel, adding 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 79
picots to the front of the pendant. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Fig. 6: Adding the picots 6) PENDANT FRINGE. Start 6’of thread that exits from IC on the bezel’s Round 4 at one tip of the triangle. String IB. 1H. and ЗА; skip the last ЗА and pass back through the rest of the beads just strung to make a fringe. Pass through the next IC in Round 4 (Fig. 7). Repeat to add a total of 22 fringes along two-thirds of the bezel. Fig. 7: Adding fringe 7) BAIL. Use 4' of thread to work a strip of odd-count peyote stitch 7D wide and 30 rows long, leaving an 8” tail. Picots: Weave through beads to exit from a Row 27 edge bead. String ЗА; pass down through the adjacent ID and up through the following ID (Fig. 8). Repeat six times. Weave through the first row to work 7 picots along the other edge of the strip. □□□□□□□аасз □□□□□□□□□a □□aaaaaaaa Fig. 8: Working the picots Sequin: Exit the center of Row 27. String the sequin and LA Pass back through the sequin to form 1 fringe. Pendant: Stitch the last row of the strip to Round 3 of the bezel's bare section, centering the strip between the fringe added in Step 6; secure the thread and trim. Place a needle on the bail strip’s tail thread. Fold the strip over the bare center section of the embellished rope, and stitch the first row of the strip to the bezel. Secure the thread and trim. ♦ The Crystal Bril Нанесnecklace к-as inspired by Daeng's lovely Prince ssa Aecklacc. ir/i/c/i irns a 2007 finalist in A*. Gottfried Inc. 's H orldivide Design Contest, (io to i г i r i r. kgottfriedie w.com/coi i le st_ gallery I.asp tn view this and many otlu r impressive winners and finalists. Срок for more information on other contests at i c i v\v.kge)ttfrieclh tc.coi /1. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Crystals К Gorrfned (wholesale only), (800) 879-2323, www kgottfriedinc.com. FireLine braided beading thread and all other beads and findings QiritWorks Northwest, (425) 462-8992 80 beadworkmagazine.com
bracelet heavenly hibiscus bangle SCARLETT LANSON Woven around a malleable copper-wire core with a beaded hibiscus bloom poised at each end, this innovative bangle bracelet allows the wearer to adjust the fit while keeping the solid structure. See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. TECHNIQUES :! tubular right- angle weave :: tubular peyote stitch 82 beadworkmagazi nc.com
MATERIALS 1) BEADED-BEAD PETALS. Use 2' of thread to cover a crystal round with cylinder beads: Base: String IC. I crystal round, and IC, leaving a 4" tail. Pass back through the crystal and first C. Tie a knot with the working and tail threads. Pass through the crystal and second C again (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working the base of the beaded beads Round 1: Working off of the last C strung, use C to work 4 units of right-angle weave. String IC: pass through the base C at the other side of the crystal. String IC; pass through the last C exited on the fourth unit and the next 2 beads (Fig. 2). Repeat to work a total of 5 units on the other side of the Fig. 2: Completing the first half of Round 1 crystal using C and D. following the color pattern in Fig. 3. Weave through the beads to exit from a bead on the bottom of the first unit. 0-C • = D Fig. 3: The second side of Round 1 1 g matte 24k gold-plated iris size 15® seed beads (A) 5 g 24k gold-plated size 15° seed beads (B) 3 g frosted matte pink size 11° cylinder beads (C) 3 g metallic berry size 11 cylinder beads (D) 1 g 24k gold-plated size 11° hex-cut cylinder beads (E) 1 g 24k gold-plated size 11° seed beads (F) 10 Siam 8mm crystal rounds Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread 12" of 3mm copper wire TOOLS Size 12 beading needles Scissors Heavy-duty wire cutters Bracelet mandrel or other solid, round form Metal file FINISHED SIZE: ADJUSTABLE Round 2 (bottom): Use cylinder beads to work a round of right-angle weave as before, following the color pattern in Fig. 4 when working the second side. Fig. 4: The second side of Round 2 Round3 (bottom): Stitching into the top bead of every other unit, work tubular peyote stitch with 1 bead in each stitch in this order: IC. IC. IC. ID. and ID. Pass through all the beads in this round and pull the thread tight to join them into a ring. Bottom point: Stitch IF so it's centered within the circle of Round 3 beads (Ag-5). Petal top: Weave titrough beads to exit from an edge bead in Round I. Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 using all C. Repeat 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 83
Fig. 5: Adding the bottom point instructions for the bottom point to create a top point. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat entire step four times for a total of 5 beaded-bead petals; do not cut the thread on the fifth beaded bead. 2) CONNECTING THE PETALS. Weave the tail of the fifth beaded bead through beads to exit the bottom point and use it to connect all of the beaded beads: Round 1: Holding the beaded bead so that the D beads are facedown, string IA and the bottom point of the next beaded bead, again holding the second beaded bead with the D beads face- down. Repeat to connect all 5 beaded beads. String IA and pass through the first beaded bead's bottom point to form a circle and tie a knot (Fig. 6). Flower center: Stitch IF so it s centered within the circle of Round 2 beads. Secure the thread and trim. Stabilizers: Work right-angle-weave units between adjacent beaded-bead petals to stabilize them and help hold them in place: Start 2' of thread that exits from Round 3 at the bottom of the first petal, through a bead that sits between this and the second petal. String IA; pass through the adjacent Round 3 cylinder bead that sits at the bottom of the second petal from front to back. String LA; pass through the last cylinder bead exited from the first petal (Fig. 8). Pull tight and repeat the thread path to secure. Repeat around to connect and stabilize all the petals. Fig. 8: Stabilizing the flower by Joining the petals 4) SECOND FLOWER. Repeat Steps l-3 for a i с* * г making the follow- ing шшсккжа > »•- :tch the colors when *g '•* т-rals using D in place of C C 2=. «dace of D. _ ir оlace of C when work- ing ----- * r.e stamen. Fig. 6: Joining the beaded-bead petals Round 2: Work a round of circular peyote stitch using IA in each stitch (Fig. 7). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Fig. 7: Working the center of the flower 3) STAMEN. Weave through beads to exit from the F at the center of the flower. String 11C, IE. and IA creating the core of the stamen ; pass back through the E and last C strung. Fringe: String IE and IA and pass back through the E and next C. toward the Hower center; repeat four times. String 2E and IA and pass back through the 2E and next C. toward the flower center; repeat four times. Pass through the F at the center of the flower. String 2E and LA and pass bacc through the 2E; pass through the ner. cylinder bead of the fringe (Fig. 9 Repeat fringe instructions to work second pass, working in reverse so tha the longer fringes are near the bor ~ of the stamen; omit the last 2 fnng- ? create a natural tapered look. Weave through beads to the center of the flower; secure the thread and trim. 5 ~ -.4 2 _£ a * right-angle weave . - st • rr to form the bangle: a. w i r ur wrist and add . rar m-? -_o this measurement. «e Twrirwi-reL to manipulate the • re * _r circle. Open the —Г2 ~ opening a jump Ш zr-' «гт 3 ♦ ’ apart. - = • £ * S TIPS............. • •’чрт -reshape of the • ft -n.—. : keep in mind that r • > •y- cker, and there- in ж the wrist, when you ж dk 'ч^Е-erg/e-tveave cover. • rr fr г- :ne armature before Гт. leaf rg and be sure to iT th smooth, as they 84 beadworkmagazine.com
,..AR.T..I.S.T.'..S.....T1PS.......... i • The inside of metal size 11° seed beads can be very sharp, so be careful not to force the stitches when joining the 5 gold-plated size 11°s of the petals into the flower shape. To avoid cutting the thread against the edges, carefully nudge the beads into position while reinforcing the join. i • You may find it easier to remove the tubular-right-angle-weave armature cover while stitching. However, be sure to occasionally test its fit by slipping it over the armature. Armature cover: Usc 4 of thread and В to work a strip of right - angle weave 4 units long and 1 unit high. Exiting down through the final unit's end bead, string IB and pass up through the end bead the first unit. String IB: pass down the first end bead exited to о in the strip into a ring, creating a fifth unit. Pass through the nearest top bead. Slip the ring over one end of the arma- ture. Work tubular right-angle weave with 5 units in each round for the length of the arir.^- until it is cov- ered, using firm tnsion to prevent the wire from >h : -*tn£ through. Note: Do not force the beadwork to stretch; it is best t ? have additional rows that are sc run: bed up than to be short a few row $ Finish each end of the wire b\ passing лrough the 5 end beads tu-.-, nulling tightlv as you go. Secure the thread and trim. 6) ASSEMBLY. Sew 1 flower to the top of each end of the bangle by tacking down the underside of each petal that comes in contact with the armature cover; be sure to follow previous thread paths to prevent new threads from show- ing. Note: It is normal for the flowers to move around the cuff with the armature cover; this allows for easy on and off when donning the bracelet. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kits: Scarlett Lanson, scarlatte424@yahoo .com, www.thebeadersmuse.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 85
brooch love knot brooch ARLENE BAKER Sparkling rings of fire-polished beads are entwined with ropes of lustrous glass pearls and wired to a filigree base to make this dazzling Miriam Haskell—style brooch. The luxurious textures and fabulous dimension created as the pearls weave in and out make this accessory simply irresistible. TECHNIQUES :: stringing :: wireworking :: two-needle right-angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. -18-49 for helpful technique information. 86 beadworkmagazine.com
1) OUTER RING BASE. Cut 24" of 28-gauge wire and use the 4mm fire- polished beads to work a two-needle right-angle woven ring: Unit 1: String 7 beads to the center of the wire: pass through the first bead again and pull the wire ends evenly in opposite directions to form a circle of beads. Units 2-11: String 3 beads on each end of the wire; pass the right end back through the last bead on the left end. Pull snug to form a circle with 2 beads on the left inner curve and 3 beads on the right outer curve (Fig. 1). Con- tinue, stringing 3 beads on each wire and passing the outer wire back through the last bead on the inner wire, for a total of 11 bead circles. Fig. 1: Units I rind 2 Unit 12: To close the ring, string 2 beads on the inner wire and 3 beads on the outer wire; pass each wire in opposite directions through the fourth bead of Unit 1 (Fig. 2). Pull snug behind the last bead and twist the wires tighdy together for '/a". Trim to %" and press the ends close to the bead. Smooth each unit and round out the shape of the ring. Fig. 2: i . 2) PEARL ROPE. Cut 16" of 34-gauge wire and tie a knot at one end. String 76 white 2mm pearls and tie a knot to secure the beads loosely on the wire; repeat for a total of 3 pearl strands. Hold all 3 strands together with the pearls slid down to the bottom knots. Hold the exposed wires 2l/2" from the ends and twist the wires together for %". Turn the bundle upside down and slide the pearls down to the twisted section. Position the pearl strands side by side. Twist the wires together for leaving 1 pearl’s length of bare wire between the pearls and the twist. Trim the knots at the ends of each wire, keeping the wire ends long. Gently twist each end of the bundle in opposite directions to form a smooth rope of pearls (Fig.3); don’t twist too tight or the pearl rope will be too short to fit around the base. Fig. 3: 3) WEAVING. With the ring base right side up. pass one end of the pearl rope up through the second bead circle (Unit 2). leaving a W tail of pearls underneath. Hold the tail in place and weave through the remaining circles, adjusting the pearl rope as needed if it untwists. The pearl rope ends meet between the first and sec- ond circles (Units 1 and 2). Tightly twist the twisted sections of each end together for V2" (Fig.4a); trim to W' and press the wire ends close to the beads. MATERIALS 108 dear AB 4mm fire-polished rounds 342 white 2mm glass pearls 1 white 10mm glass pearl 2 brass 1 %" diameter filigree discs 1 gold-tone ГА" pin back 78" of brass 34-gauge wire 154" of brass 28-gauge wire TOOLS Wire cutters Chain-nose pliers 2 round toothpicks Dapping block Ruler or tape measure FINISHED SIZE: IV*" Shaping: As the pearls weave in and out of the bead circles, 6 fire-polished “Xs" will be visible on each side of the ring. Position your fingers on both sides of each X and gently push the sides together to raise the center of the X. Repeat to evenly raise all 6 fire-polished Xs on the top of the ring (Fig. 4b). 4) INNER RING. Repeat Step 1. using 14" of 28-gauge wire to work 36 fire- polished rounds into a ring of 6 right - angle weave units. Repeat Step 2. using three 10" pieces of 34-gauge wire with 38 white 2mm pearls on each ware. Repeat the weaving and shaping steps to complete the inner ring (Fig. 5). Fig. 5: The inner ring 5) ASSEMBLY. Use a dapping block to gendy dome one of the filigrees, then attach the components as follows using 28-gauge wire: Outer ring: Cut six 6" pieces of wire; pass 1 wire through each of the 6 fire- polished Xs on the back of the ring, 41 Favorite Jewelry’Designs 87
bending the wire around each bead so the ends are even and point down from the ring. Center the outer ring on the domed side of the curved fili- gree (beads will overhang the edges). Pass the ends of the wire down through two adjacent spaces in the filigree. Hold the ring snug against the filigree and twist the wire ends tightly together. Repeat with a second wire on the opposite side of the ring, then with the other 4 wires evenly spaced around the ring (Fig. б). Trim the ends to ’4" and flatten the wire against the filigree. Fig. 6: A;- I, f ihe I Inner ring: Use three 6” pieces of wire to attach the inner ring, positioning all 3 wires before twisting the wire ends together; the loops of the inner ring’s pearl rope should be centered between two of the outer ring’s pearl loops (see photo). Center pearl: Cut 10 of wire and string the white 10mm glass pearl. Bend the wire ends to point down and pass each end through either side of the filigree’s center. Hold the pearl snug against the filigree and twist the wire ends tightly together. Trim the ends to ,4” and flatten the wire against the filigree. 6) PIN BACK. Cut two 10” pieces of 28-gauge wire and fold each in half. Open the pin back. Pass the ends of one wire through adjacent openings on the back of the flat filigree and through one hole of the pin. Repeat with the second wire so that the pin is above the center of the filigree. Bend the wire ends away from each other (Fig. 7). Pass each end through to the back of the filigree and pull tight so that the clasp doesn’t slip. Twist each pair of ends tightly together, securing the pin to the filigree. Trim to l4" and press flat. Fig. 7: Arruc/'/nif t/»c hoc1 7) FINISHING. Cut four 8" pieces of 28-gauge wire and fold each wire in half. Stack the filigrees so that the edges match. Pass the ends of one wire up through matching openings of both filigrees near the edge, from back to front. Twist the wire ends tightly together; trim to *4” and press close . to the domed filigree. * .4 hiding wire ends under i the beads. Repeat. — spacing the wires evenly 4 j around the edge. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pearls, fire-polished beads, and wire: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www .shipwreckbeads.com or Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 423-2319, www.firemountaingems.com. Similar filigrees: Omamentea, (919) 834-6260, www.omamentea.com. Kits. Arlene Baker, (562) 928-3583, arlenebkr@aol.com. 88 beadworkmagazine.com
racelet moonlight windows bracelet MELANIE L. DOERMAN Window bracelets were inspired by a dream and are one of Melanie's all-time favorite bracelets to make. Creating windows in peyote stitch is a very handy thing to know: They ’re perfect showcases for special accent beads and work as a template for pattern or color explorations as in this project. Melanie also shares her trick to closing the window properly so the top of the window matches the bottom. Г TECHNIQUE :: peyote stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 89
3) ASSEMBLY, Lay strips side by side, so that the outer strips’ brown size 15°s pair up parallel with those on the center strip. Start a new thread that exits from the middle bead of the first picot on the center strip. *String 1 bicone and pass through the parallel picot on the edge of the matched outer strip. Pass back through the beads in a figure eight to secure the bicone properly. Weave through the beads along the edge of the center strip, skipping one picot and exit- ing from the center bead of the next picot (Fig. 5). Repeat from * to connect the center strip to the first outer strip. Repeat entire step to attach the second outer strip. Fig. 5: Connecting the strips 4) FINISHING. Complete the bracelet: Snaps: Cut a piece of Ultrasuede a bit larger than the snap. Cut a hole in the center for the protrusion of the female side of the snap and sew the snap to the LUtrasuede. Trim, leaving a slight edge around the snap. Sew the snap to the middle of the center strip, ’/s" from the end. Keep stitches discrete as you work around the snap. Repeat to add the female side of snaps to the outer strips. Turn the beadwork over and sew the male side of the snaps directly to the beadwork on the other end of the bracelet. Edging: Fora scalloped edge, start a new thread at the end of the bracelet. Use brown cylinder beads to work another row of odd-count peyote stitch at the end of each of the strips, but only add a bead between every other up bead. Be sure to weave through the down bead at those places where you aren’t adding beads to hide the thread (Fig, б). Repeat at the other end of the bracelet. ♦ Fig. 6: Working the scalloped edge RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Glass beads. The San Gabriel Bead Co., (626) 447-7753, www.beadcompany.com. Cylinder and seed beads: Caravan Beads, (207) 761-2503, www.caravanbeads.com. Ultrasuede Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 91
earrings aztec sunbursts NANCY ROCKNICH A perfect balance of matte and shiny copper-hued cubes, triangles, and three different sizes of seed beads are joined using several stitches, resulting in a pair of earrings striking enough for an Aztec queen. X perfect Jor D GIFT Giving TECHNIQUES ladder stitch brick stitch peyote stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information, beadworkmagazine.com
1) STEM. Use cube and seed beads to brick-stitch the earring’s stem: Row 1: Use 6' of thread to ladder-stitch a strip 3E long. Weave through the beads again to reinforce. Row 2: String 2C; pass under the exposed thread loop between the next 2E of Row I and back through the last IC strung to make a brick stitch. String IC; pass under the thread loop of the next 2E and back through the IC to make another brick stitch. Row 3: Repeal Row 2 using E. Rows4 and 5: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Rows 1-5 of the stem 2) SUNBURST. Use seed and triangle beads to peyote-stitch the earring’s sunburst shape: Round 1: String (IB and IC) ten times. String IB; pass through the IE at the opposite end of Row 5 to form a loop. Weave through beads to pass back through the IE. Round2: String IB and pass through the next IC of Round 1; repeat around to add a total of 10B. String IB; pass through the nearest IE from Row 5. Weave through beads to pass back through the last IB added (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Rounds 1 and 2 Round3: Work 10 peyote stitches with IC in each stitch (Fig. 3). Weave through beads to exit from an end Row 5 bead. Round4: String IB and pass through the next IC from Round 3. String 2B and pass through the next IC (Rg.4); Fig. 3: Starting Round 3 Fig. 4: Adding Round 4 repeat eight times to add a total of 9 pairs of Bs. String IB: pass through the nearest end Row 5 bead. Weave through beads to pass back through the last IB added. Picots: String2B. ID, and IB: pass back through the ID. String 2B; pass through the next 2B from Round 4 (Fig. 5). Repeat around for a total of 10 picots. Fig. 5: Adding the picots ... A.R T..I..S T...'..S... TIPS. • Keep the tension relatively loose on i the peyote-stitched loop and tight on the picots so the piece will lie flat. It's helpful to work these earrings on a flat surface so you can gauge and adjust the tension as you go along. • For variety, change the triangle bead on the picot to a size 8° or 11 ° seed bead or make the sun- burst's peyote loop longer and experiment with the size of the teardrop. MATERIALS 12 hematite size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g copper size 11 seed beads (B) 5 g bronze matte iris size 8° seed beads (C) 5 g bronze matte size 11 ° triangle beads (D) 18 metallic dark gold 3mm cube beads (E) 2 amber 5x1 Omm teardrops 1 pair of silver ear wires with 3mm gold balls Gold size D nylon beading thread TOOLS Scissors Size 11 beading needle 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 2 V* ” 3) LOOPS. Add loops to the middle of the sunburst and top of the stem: Middle loop: Weave through beads to exit the middle Row 5 bead. String ЗА. 1 teardrop, and ЗА; pass back through the Row 5 bead just exited to form a loop (Fig. 6a). Top loop: Weave through beads to exit from the middle Row 1 bead. String 8B; pass back through the Row 5 bead just exited to form a loop (Fig. 6b). Fig. 6: Forming the middle and top loops Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Open the loop of 1 ear wire as you would a jump ring, string the top loop, and close the ear-wire loop. 4) Repeat Steps 1-3 for a second earring. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Nymo nylon beading thread and all beads and findings: Bead Cache, (970) 224-4322 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 93
bracelet antique connections cuff MELINDA BARTA With a nod to art deco, this attention - grabbing cuff boldly mixes unique brass findings with lustrous seed beads and pearls using circular square stitch and ladder stitch. Snaps are hidden inside a custom clasp for a clean finish. a». .stun,,. Rc Rc 1: w se Rc TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch :: circular square stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. ARTIST'S TIPS • Уои may find it helpful to use a short needle when attaching the caps and snaps. • If the ladder-stitched strip won't fit in the openwork of the filigree, use chain-nose pliers to gently manipulate the brass. 94 beadworkmagazine.com
1) SEED-BEAD CONNECTOR BASE. Work the base of the connectors using seed beads and circular square stitch: Round 1: Use 18 of conditioned size В thread to string 8A. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first bead Round 2: String 2A; pass through the last bead exited and the 2 just strung. String 2 beads and pass through the next bead in the previous round and the 2 beads just strung <Fig. 1). repeat around for a total of 16A. Pass through all of the beads in this round. Fig. 1: Beginning Round 3: Work 2 stitches u uh IA in each, then work I stitch uith 2A. Repeat four times for a total of 20A. Work the last stitch with 2A (Rg. 2 Pa<> through all Fig. 2: Working Rou r* the beads and check that a bead cap will fit inside of this round before pulling too tight. The beadu c rk %*ill shghtlv cup. Secure the th:-.-. i • u do no: trim; set aside. Repeat entire step twice for a total of 3 circles. Joining: Use the thread of one circle to square-stitch 2A of Round 3 to 2A of a second circle's Round 3 (Fig. 3a): secure the thread and trim. Weave the thread of the circle just added through beads to exit the bottom center A of Round 3. Square-stitch the bottom 2A of this circle to 2A of the final circle’s Round 3 (Fig. 3b). Secure and trim the working thread and the thread of the final circle. Fig. 3: Connecting the circles 2) ROUND 4 (OUTLINE). Sq uare- stitch contrasting seed beads (B) around the 3 circles of the connector base: Top: Secure 3’ of thread that exits the right side of the middle circle’s 2A that connect to the top circle. String IB; pass through the next IA of the top MATERIALS 12 g white-lined dark green teal size 11 seed beads (A) 5 g transparent dark amber gold luster size 1V seed beads (B) 12 gold-lined teal size 6° seed beads (C) 240 bronze 2mm seed pearls 5 antique brass 13x48mm filigree connectors 15 antique brass 9mm bead caps Brown sizes О and В nylon and smoke 6 lb braided beading threads 3 metal 8mm snap sets Thread conditioner TOOLS Size 12 beading needles Scissors FINISHED SIZE: ТА” X 67.” circle and the IB just strung. Repeat around the edge of the top circle, stitching IВ or 2 В as necessary to keep the work flat (Fig. 4 and Fig 5a). Fig. 4: Sfuuing rhi outline Middle (first half): Pass through the 4A that join the top and middle circles in a counterclockwise direction to set up for the next outline. Square-stitch the last IB added to the nearest IA of the middle circle. Repeat around as before 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 95
(Fig. 5b) until you reach the connection of the middle and bottom circles. Fig. 5: Starting to outline the middle circle Bottom: Repeat as for the first half of the middle, but this time continue stitch- ing all the way around the circle. When you reach the next connection point, pass through the 4A that join the bot- tom 2 circles, once again in a counter- clockwise direction (fig.6). Square-stitch the last IB added to the nearest 1A of the middle circle. Fig. 6: Completing the bottom circle's outline Middle (second half): Continue stitching around to complete the outline, passing through the 4A that join the top 2 circles as before to secure the connection. 3) BEAD CAPS. Embellish each circle of the seed-bead connector base with bead caps and seed beads: Caps: Use 2' of braided beading thread to string IC; tie several knots to secure. Pass up through the center of a circle. String 1 bead cap (back side first) and IB: pass back through the bead cap, circle, and the IC (Fig. 7). Pull the thread tight so that the bead cap fits snugly in the circle (Round 3 will cup 96 beadworkmagazine.com Fig. 7: Attaching a bead cap around the cap’s edges). Holding the cap in place, repeat the thread path several times. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat entire step twice to embellish the 2 remaining circles. Repeat Steps 1-3 three times for a total of 4 bead-cap embellished seed-bead connectors. 4) CLASP. Make additional seed-bead connectors for a concealed clasp: Top half: Repeat Steps 1 and 2. Repeat Step 3 using size В thread and omit- ting the IC. stitching into Round 1 when securing the bead caps. Stitch the male half of 1 snap to the back of each circle, passing through Round 2 when securing the 4 holes of the snaps. Repeat the thread paths several times. Bottom half: Repeat Steps 1 and 2. Repeat Step 3 using size В thread and the female half of the snaps instead of the bead caps, omitting the C and stitching into Rounds 2 and 3 when securing the 4 holes of the snap. Repeat the thread paths several times. 5) ASSEMBLY. Join the seed-bead and brass filigree connectors using strips of embellished ladder stitch: Ladder*stitched loop: Start 2 of condi- tioned size В thread that exits near the up from the 2A that join the top and middle circles. Ladder-stitch a strip IB high and 6B long (Fig. 8). Pass the needle and beads through the top-left opening in 1 filigree connector. Ladder-stitch the last IB of the strip to the last IB exited on the seed-bead connector to form a loop. Fig. 8: Forming the ladder stitched loop Pearl embellishment: Exit IB of the connection; string 1 pearl and pass through the next IB from the same side of the strip. Repeat around the loop twice in a zigzag pattern to add a total of 12 pearls (Fig. 9). Fig. 9:nbelhshing the loop .<• ith pearls Use the same method to attach the bot- tom right of the seed-bead connector to the bottom left of the filigree connector. Repeat entire step to join the remaining seed-bead and filigree connectors, attaching one half of the clasp at each end and making sure the clasp snaps face each other. Secure the threads and trim. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Teal seed beads: Luna's Beads Ст Glass, (970) 668-8001, www.lunasbeads.com. Gold seed beads and FireLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781 -3559. Connectors and bead caps: Kabela Design, (610) 459-5816, www.kabeladesign.com Snaps: Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft, (888) 739-4120, www.joann.com. Seed pearls: TA Pearlstone, (415) 505-9148, www. tapearl stone.com. ,A RT.I..S.T'.S..T.1P............ i Switch to the size О thread and a i size 13 needle if you find it hard to i pass through beads at anytime. s Otherwise, you may accidentally :: force the beads to breah.
earrings serengeti earrings PHYLLIS DINTENFASS technique used in domino knitting. TECHNIQUE :: peyote stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 1’^ - I ч :• 'r; •4R *- * 1 < - K ► w® i • t У ...-Л*! - Two peyote-stitched diamonds combine to make this convex-shaped earring design with a theme and color palette inspired by Africa and a clever decrease method inspired by a j I ant, make a larger earring by simply increasing strung for Rows 1 and 2, but be sure to start with an odd number. for a different texture, try size 11° Czech or Japanese seed beads- the pattern will work for both cylinder and rounder seed beads. 98 beadworkmagazine.com
1) DIAMONDS. Use 3’ of thread and cylinder beads to peyote-stitch a modi- fied diamond shape: Rows 1 and 2: String 29B. leaving a 4” tail. Row 3: Work 7 stitches, using IA in each stitch. Pass through the next 2B. Work 6 stitches using IA in each stitch. String LA; tie a knot with the tail and working threads to place the bead at the end of the row. Step up by passing back through the IA just strung (Fig. l). Fig. 1: Rows < -3 Row 4: Work 6 stitches, using LA in each stitch. String IB (a “divide” bead); pass through the next LA and work 6 stitches using LA in each stitch (Fig.2). Fig. 2: V<jr«.-.-i:i; Ku- R . 4 "divide" bead Pull tight to snug the beads and adjust the beadwork to form a slight V shape and so the middle В of Row 1 pro- trudes from the rest of the beadwork. Row 5: Work 6 stitches, using LA in each stitch. Weave through the next 4 beads, exiting the nearest A bead of Row 4 on the other side of the divide. Work 5 stitches using IA in each stitch. .Note: Since this is odd-count peyote stitch, you’ll need to work a turnaround to add die last bead in everv other rowr: string the last bead of the row (LA). loop around the outside thread that joins Rows 1 and 3. and pass back through the last bead added to step up (Fig. 3). Fig. 3: E/id-row turnaround Rows 6-15: Repeat Rows 4 and 5. decreas- ing by IA on each side of the divide and adding IB (divide bead) as before in every even row. Row 15 will consist of 2 stitches with IA in each. Final B: String IB and exit the A bead of Row 15 on the other side of the divide (Fig. 4). Do not trim the thread. Set aside. Repeat entire step for a second diamond. Fig. 4: Al'>:ing tin Rov. 15 tu< iHinunii! .Uhl tUiiiiiig rhe final В 2) FINISHING. Join the 2 diamonds and create the hangingloop: Connection: Use the working thread of one of the diamonds to string 1B. Pass down through the mirror A on the second diamond and up through the next A, pulling very tight. String 2B; pass up through the mirror A on the first diamond and down through the next A. Repeat to connect the straight edges of the beadwork, increasing 1В in each strand. The last strand will connect Row 1 of each diamond and will include 8B (Fig. 5). Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 5: Con th< .iiarnonif' Use the working thread of the other diamond to repeat this step to connect the other side of the diamonds. Keep die thread very tight so the earring forms MATERIALS 2 g matte khaki size 11 ° cylinder beads (A) 2 g matte black size 11° cylinder beads (B) 1 pair of gold-filled ear wires Black size D nylon beading thread Thread conditioner (optional) TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 2 1/4” a curve. Before cutting the thread, weave through beads to exit up through Row 1, IB to left of the tip of the diamond. Loop: String 3B. 1A. IB, 1 ear wire. IB, 1A, and 3B: pass through the mirror IB in Row 1 at the tip of the diamond (Fig. 6), Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 6: Earring '. op 3) Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for a second earring. 4 RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Cylinder beads: Painter Art Beads, (360) 569-2644, www.painterartbeads.coni Findings: Rings Things (wholesale only), (800) 366-2156, www.rings-things.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 99
bracelet biker bracelet KATE MCKINNON TECHNIQUES :: square stitch :: wireworking See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48—49 for helpful technique information. This bracelet is a simple and elegant variation on the square stitch, with seed beads and pearls worked in between as spacers. The title of the project comes from a belt that Kate made in this stitch. It was thirty-four inches long and backed with black Ultrasuede—the perfect thing to wear on a Harley! 100 beadworkmagazine.com
1) SQUARE STITCH. Use 3* of thread to string a tension bead, leaving a 4" tail. Row 1: String I cube. ЗВ. I cube, 3B, I cube, 3B. and I cube. Row 2: String 1 cube: pass through the previous cube and the cube just strung to work a single square stitch. Work a second stitch to reinforce (Fig. 1). *String 3B and I cube: pass through the next cube of the previous row and the cube just strung (Fig. 2). Fig. 1:Sr<jrt rr< Fig. 2: . low 2 Pull snug and work a second stitch. Repeat from * twice, then pass through the previous row and the current row (Fig. З). Row 3: Repeat Row 2 Fig. 4 . Fig. 3: Fiuisniti. f, Ftg - 3 Row 4: Repeat Row 2, using rectangles in place of the cubes and I pearl in place of the first 3B (Fig. s). Fig. 5: Wo/ wng Rotv 4 Row 5: Repeat Row 2, stringing I pearl in place of the second 3B. Row 6: Repeat Row' 2, stringing I pearl in place of the third 3B. Rows 7 and on: Repeat from Row 4 until you are about 1" from the desired finished length. 2) CLASP. Attach the ring-half of a toggle to one end of the bracelet using loops of B. Pass through the beads and toggle as many times as the bead holes will allow, then stitch into the bracelet and trim close. Use wire to form a wrapped loop that includes the bar-half of the toggle. Check the bracelet for size and form a loop in the wire accordingly, then wrap the loop to include the first 2 rows at the other end of the bracelet (Fig. 6a). 3) BINDING. Secure a new thread at one end of the bracelet, then exit an edge bead. Pass under the loop of thread along the edge between the next 2 rows. Repeat this whipstitch to the other end of the bracelet, making sure to pass under each loop in the same direction. Work whipstitch back up the same edge, cross- ing over the previous stitches for a cabled MATERIALS 3 g maroon size 15° seed beads (A) 20 g bronze size 11 seed beads (B) 54 red/bronze 6mm pearls 148 Thai silver 4mm comerless cubes 92 Thai silver 4x6mm rectangles Toggle clasp 4“ of sterling silver 18-gauge half-hard wire Size D nylon beading thread TOOLS Size 12 or 13 beading needles Chain- or flat-nose pliers Round-nose pliers Wire cutters Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 8” look. or. for a protective bead edging, string IA before passing under each loop (Fig. 6b). ♦ Fig. 6: Mito” «< nnri ' RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Toggle clasp: Kate McKinnon, www.katemckinnon.com Similar Thai silver spacer beads: Somerset silver, www.somerset-silver.com 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 101
crystal dewdrop bracelet MIWAKO NARA This rich and sparkling bracelet was made with a unique technique Miwako discovered while she was stitching a chevron chain using bicone crystals. TECHNIQUE :: chevron chain variation See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 102 beadworkmagazine.com
CHEVRON STRIP 1) Work the full width of the bracelet up and down, creating 3 row's of bicones that are connected by picots along the top and bottom edges: Middle start: Use 6 of conditioned thread to string IB, 1 jon- quil bicone, and 3B. leaving a 10" tail. Pass back through the bicone and the first IB to form a picot on top of the bicone. String 2В (Fig. la); Fig. 1: Swrirng the chevron strip pass through the bicone again and back through the rightmost IB of the picot. Top start: String I topaz bicone and 3B; pass back through the bicone and the last IB (Fig. 1b). String iAand IB; pass through the bicone and top picot again, then back through beads to exit from the rightmost IB of the lower picot (Fig. 2). Bottom start: String I topaz bicone and 3B; pass back through the bicone and the last IB. String LA and IB; pass through the bicone and 3B. then back through the bicone and the last IB (Fig. з). Fig. 2: /at king the tap 2) Repeat the follow- *8 3:11 ing sequence of middle, top, and bottom bicones to work the length of the bracelet about 62": Middle bicone: String I jonquil bicone and pass through the nearest IB. String LA and IB; pass back through the bicone and the nearest IB String LA and IB; pass back through the bicone and the last IB (Fig. 4). Top bicone: String I topaz bicone and 3B; pass back through the bicone and the last IB. String LA and IB; pass through the Fig. 4; Adding the next middle bicone and picots bicone, first IB, and the rightmost IB of the previous picot. String LA and pass through the last top picot. then back through beads to exit from the rightmost IВ below the middle bicone (Fig. 5). Bottom bicone: String I topaz bicone and 3B; pass back through the bicone and the last IB. String IAand Fig. 5: Working the next set of top beads IB: pass through the bicone. first IB. and the rightmost IB of the previous picot. String 1A; pass through the last bottom picot and back through the bicone and the rightmost IB (Fig. 6). 3) To match the start of the brace- let. work I middle bicone sequence Fig. 6: Working the next set of bottm beads using В in place of A. CLASP 4) Exit from the rightmost IB above the last jonquil bicone. String I bead cap, one 8mm crystal, and ЗА; pass back through the 8mm crystal and bead cap to form a picot. Pass through the middle IB, the next IB, the bicone, and the rightmost IB below the bicone (Fig. 7). Repeat to attach the second 8mm crystal. Pass through the beads several times to reinforce, weave through the work to secure the thread, and trim. MATERIALS 1 g gold-lined topaz size 15° seed beads (A) 4 g gold-luster topaz size 11 ° seed beads (B) 39 jonquil satin 4mm crystal bicones 76 ceylon topaz 4mm crystal bicones 2 golden shadow 8mm crystal rounds 2 gold 8x4mm bead caps Ecru size D nylon beading thread Thread conditioner TOOLS Size 12 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: з/4 x 7" 5) Use the start- ing tail thread to string I OB and ЗА; snug the beads and pass back through the last IB. String 9 В and pass through the middle IB below the first bicone, the next IB. the bicone, right- most IВ above the bicone, and the next IB (Fig.8). Repeat for a second loop. Fig. 7: Adding the ; съър bead Fig. 8: Adding the • lasp loop Pass through the beads several times to reinforce, weave through the work to secure the thread, and trim. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Swarovski crystals: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Similar bead caps: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 423-2319, www .firemountaingems.com. 4-1 Favorite Jewelry Design> 103
brooch crystal radiance brooch TINA KOYAMA TECHNIQUES t: brick stitch This brooch of concentric circles of brick stitch requires making gradual increases from round to round by changing bead sizes as well as changing the number of beads in each round. :: picot See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information 104 beadworkmagazine.com
1 ) FOUNDATION. Use 6' of thread to string the 10mm crystal, leaving a 6’ tail. Pass through the crystal again, wrapping the thread along the side of the crystal; repeat, wrapping the thread along the opposite side of the crystal. Pass through twice more so that two strands of thread are on each side of the crystal. Pull tight and tie a half-hitch knot to stabilize the threads around the crystal. 2 ) BRICK STITCH. Work brick stitch around the crystal, anchoring the first round to the foundation thread, and switching bead size for each round. Round 1: String 2 size 11° cylinder beads and pass under the foundation thread and back through the last bead strung. String 1 size 11° cylinder and pass under the thread and back through the bead just strung; repeat all around for a total of 19 beads (Fig. 1). Step up at the end of each round bv passing down through the first bead and up through the last bead. Round 6: Use size 11° seed beads with 12 increases (40 total). Round 7: Use size 11° seed beads with 4 increases (44 total). Round 8: Use size 11° cylinder hex beads with 15 increases (59 total). Round 9: Use size 8° hex beads with 15 decreases (44 total). 3 ) CRYSTAL PICOTS. Tie a knot to secure the thread, then exit the top of a hex bead in the last round. *String 1 size 11° seed bead, one 4mm bicone, and 3 size 15°s. Snug the beads close to the work, then pass back through the crystal. String 1 size 11° seed bead and pass down through the next hex bead. Pass up through the following hex bead and repeat from ♦. alternating 6mm and 4mm bicones. Tie a knot to secure the thread, then pass back through the beads to exit the sixth round. 4 ) PIN BACK. Open the pin and center it on the back of the work above the center crystal. Weave through the beads to exit near a hole at one end of the pin back. String 3 size 11° seed beads and pass through the pin and to the right side of the beadwork. Pass through 1 or 2 beads and to the back of the work to exit the opposite side of the same pinhole. String 3 size 11° seed beads and pass through the same pinhole to the front of the work (Fig. 2). Repeat to secure each MATERIALS 5 g green bronze size 15° seed beads 5 g bronze size 11 ° cylinder beads 5 g metallic green size 11 cylinder hex beads 5 g bronze size 11е seed beads 5 g gold size 8 hex seed beads 11 erinite satin AB 4mm crystal bicones 11 jet nut 2x6mm crystal bicones 1 smoky quartz dorado 10mm crystal round 1-1 Vt" pin back Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Size 10 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 2” Fig. 1:: Round 2: String 2 size IIе seed beads; *pass under the loop between the next 2 beads of the previous round and back through the last bead just strung. String I size ll° seed bead and repeat from * around, working I increase halfway around the circle (20 beads total). Roud 3: Use size 11 ° cylinder hex beads z with ll increases (31 total). Round 4: Use size 11 ° seed beads with 1 decrease (30 total). Round 5: Use size 8° hex beads with 2 decreases (28 total). Fig. 2: • г» •• hole of the pin back, passing through beads as needed to avoid exposing any bare thread. If the pin back feels wob- bly. weave through the beads again to reinforce. ♦ RESOURCES Check with your local bead shop or con- tact: Swarovski crystal bicones and round. FireLine braided beading thread, and all other beads: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 105
earrings little black dress earrings MARCIA DECOSTI perfect for GIFT Giving ' ♦ Л I г ш 1 fi * i s 85 ;R These cross-shaped earrings made with three different stitches and dramatic cubic Zirconia drops might be the only accessory jou needforjour little black dress. 11* ^№***~r* ЕЛ* TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch :: right-angle weave :: picot See pull-out stitch guide l>etween pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 106 beadworkmagazine.com
1) BASE. Use 3’ of doubled thread to make a cross-shaped base: Round 1: Ladder-stitch a strip of 8 size ll°s. Stitch the first and last beads together to form a circle with the holes facing out. Round 2: String 3 size I l°s; pass down through the next Round I bead and up through the following bead to form a picot. Repeat around for a total of 4 picots. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead added in this Fig. 1: Rounds 1 and 2, \ladder-stitch base with picots Round 3: String 5 size ll°s, skip the middle bead of the first Round 2 picot and pass through the third bead: string 1 size 8° (Ag. 2a) and pass through the first bead of the second Round 2 picot. Repeat around for a total of 4 picots. Weave through beads to exit from the third bead added in this round (Rg.2b). fig. 2: Round 3, luiiding the arms if the cross fop picot and loop: String 3 size U°s; pass through the bead just exited again to form a loop and the first 2 beads just added. String 7 size I5°s. pass through the size 11° last exited 1 Fig. 3a). Repeat the thread path again to reinforce. .eft picot: Weave through beads to exit from the middle bead of the next Round 3 picot. String 3 size 11 °s: pass through the bead just exited again to form a loop. Weave through beads to exit from the middle bead of the next Round 3 picot. ARTIST'S..!.1 PS............ • Consider working with matte black seed beads in Rounds 1-3 and shiny black for the top loop, briolette loop, and picots-the contrast will add another layer of dimension. • For a casual look, use small brio- lettes or omit them altogether. Bottom plcot and briolette: String 3 size ll°s; pass through the bead just exited again to form a loop and pass through the first 2 beads just added. String 3 size I5°s. 1 briolette, and 3 size 15°s; pass through the size 11° last exited (Ag.3b). Repeat the thread path again to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the middle bead of the final Round 3 picot. Right picot: String 3 size ll°s; pass through the bead just exited again to form a loop (Fig. 3c). 2) EMBELLISHING. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead in Round 1. at the base of the top arm, and work the second layer: Arms: String 1 size 15°, one 4mm bicone, and 1 size 15°; pass through the middle bead of the Round 3 top picot. String 1 size 15°, one 4mm bicone, and 1 size MATERIALS 58 black size 15° seed beads 1 g black size 11° seed beads 16 peacock iris size 8° seed beads 16 Capri blue AB 4mm crystal bicones 8 jet 3mm crystal bicones 2 jet 7x27mm cubic zirconia (cz) faceted briolettes 1 pair of sterling silver ear wires Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 2’A “ 15°; pass down through the next Round I bead, at the base of the arm. String I size 8° and pass up through the next Round I bead (Fig. 4). Repeat around for a total of 8 crystals and 4 size 8°s. Weave through beads to exit a size 8° added in this step. Center: String one 3mm bicone; pass through the next size 8°. Repeat around for a total of four 3mm bicones. Secure the thread and trim. 3) FINISHING. Attach I ear wire to the 7-bead loop at the top of the earring. Repeat Steps l-3 for a second earring. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and crystals: Out on a Whim, www.whimbeads.com. CZ drops: Africa Stones, www . africastones.com. FtreLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 107
bracelet black magic LIZ SMITH St li p TECHNIQUE spiral-stitch variation See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. is interwoven structure oj crystal bicones and charlotte seed beads is a variation of the spiral rope stitch. Worked with too few stitches to left flat and worked with shared beads, creating a mysterious undulating texture. Beware what these shadows hide. Liz thanks her friend and master beader Corinne Loomerfor helping her master the stitches 108 beadworkmagazine.com
1) FIRST ROW. Use 5’ of thread to string 2 core beads (4mm bicones), leaving a 12" tail. Loops 1 and 2: String one set of side beads (5 size I5°s, one 3mm bicone, and 5 size I5°s); pass through the 2 core beads to form a loop. Repeat once to form a loop on the opposite side of the core (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working the first two >oops Loops 3 and on: String I core bead and one set of side beads; slide the beads down to the work and pass through the top 2 core beads. String a second set of side beads and pass through the same top 2 core beads to form a loop on the opposite side of the core, on top of the previous loops (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Continuing the ocps Ro* ' Repeat for 61/: stringing 1 new core bead for each pair of loops and flipping one loop to each side of the core beads before starting the next loop. 2) SECOND ROW. Use 5' of thread to string 2 core beads 4 mm bicones) and line them up with the hrs’ loop of the previous row, leasing a 12" tail. Loop 1: String 4 size 15°s and pass back through the 3 middle beads (I size 15°, one 3mm bicone, and I size 15°) of the corresponding loop in the previous row (Fig. з). String 4 size I5°s and pass up through the 2 core beads of this row. Fig. 3: Starting Row 2 Loop 2: String I set of side beads (5 size I5°s, one 3mm bicone, and 5 size I5°s) and pass up through the 2 core beads again to form a loop on the opposite side of the core (Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Working Loop 2 of Row 2 Loops 3 and on: String I core bead (4mm bicone) and repeat Loops I and 2, passing through the top 2 core beads for the length of the row (Fig. s). 3) THIRD ROW. Repeat Step 2 to work a third row, passing through beads of the second row. 4) CLASP. String 2 size I3°s, ll size I5°s, and the first loop of one half of the clasp; pass back through the size I3°s to form a MATERIALS 15 g matte black size 15° charlottes 12 matte black size 13° charlottes 180 jet 3mm crystal bicones 135 jet 4mm crystal bicones 1 silver 20mm 3-loop slide clasp 9' of 4 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Size 12 or 13 needles Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 7W Fig. 5: Continuing the loops of Row 2 loop. Pass through a set of side and core beads to exit the size I3°s and pass through the loop of beads again to reinforce. Pass through a few beads of the bracelet, knot, and trim. Repeat for each of the remaining tail threads, passing through the corresponding loops of the clasp. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and all beads: The San Gabriel Bead Co, (626) 447-7753 or Creative Castle, (805) 499-1377. Kit for this project: www.lizsmithdesigns.com 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 109
R< TECHNIQUE :: circular peyote stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. This unique purse is created by stitching twelve individual beaded triangles and then zipping them together to form a pentagonal shape. This large project works up quicker than traditional purses by using medium-size 10° cylinder beads and cleverly connecting them with 2mm crystal rounds. 110 beadworkmagazine.com
1) TRIANGLES. Stitch beaded triangles to form the front and back panels of the purse: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 6’ of thread to string 2Aand IB. leaving a 3" tail. Pass through beads again and tie a knot to form a tight circle. Exit from the first A strung. Round 3: Work circular peyote stitch using 2A in the first stitch, LA and IB in the second stitch, and IB and LA in the third stitch. Step up by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working Round 3 Round 4: Work circular peyote stitch between each bead of the previous round in this order: 2A. IE. lAand IB, ID. IB and 1A. and IC. Step up through the first bead of this round (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Stepping up for Rot. . Round S: Work circular peyote stitch in this order: 2A. IE. IE. LAand IB, ID, ID, IB and LA. IC. and IC: step up through the first bead of this round (Fig. З). You will begin to see the triangle pattern established. Rounds 6-18: Work circular pevote stitch, increasing in each round and main- taining the colorw'ay established in Round 5. Secure the thread, but don’t trim. Set aside. Fig. 3: Completing Round 5 Repeat entire step six times for a total of 7 matching triangles for the front and flaps of the bag. Repeat entire step five times for a total of 5 triangles, substituting F for C, G for D, and H for E. 2) ZIPPING. Use the tail threads to zip the triangles together with crystals: Front panel: Pick up the first triangle made in Step I. Weave through beads to exit from the first A in the last round, between the E and D sides (Fig. 4a). String I crystal and pass through the nearest E. Use crystals to work peyote stitch along the E side. String I crystal: pass through the A in the last round of a matching tri- Fig. 4: Zipping triangles together MATERIALS 10 g each size 10Q cylinder beads in galva- nized silver (A), transparent maroon (C), matte black (D), and riickel-plated (E) 5 g light transparent bluish gray size 10° cylinder beads (B) 7 g each size 10° cylinder beads in galvanized maroon (F), matte gray (G), and black (H) 270 clear AB 2mm crystal rounds 2 sterling silver 5mm jump rings 2 silver 8mm snaps 48" of gunmetal 2-3x3-4mm oval/peanut chain Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Size 11 beading needle Scissors Chain-nose pliers Flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 4” angle’s C side (Fig. 4b). Pass through the second-to-last crystal added to the first triangle and the nearest C. Weave through the last-round C beads, crystals, and the last A to zip the triangles together (Fig. 4c). String 1 crystal and pass through the first A exited in this step. Weave through the beads again to reinforce. Repeat entire step to connect the first 5 triangles into a pentagon (Fig. 5) Weave through the 5 central crystals several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 5: Triangle and snap placement Back panel: Follow Fig. 5 to arrange 5 triangles; stitch them into a pentagon as you did for the back panel. 41 Favorite lewelrv Desiems
Panel join: Match the back and front panels together. Use the same zipping method to stitch the bottom 3 sets of triangles together, creating an envelope. Weave through the 4 crystals at each corner several times to reinforce. Flaps: Use the remaining 2 triangles to create purse flaps (Fig. б). Zip the D side of the first flap to the G side of one of the top triangles on the back panel; repeat with the second flap. The flaps should match the front - panel triangles beneath them. Fig. 6: Purse flap placement 3) SNAPS. Start a 12" thread that exits from the front panel's top-right triangle, W' from the center crystal connection. Securely sew on the hole side of a snap. Start a 12" thread on the back of the top-right flap. Sew on the tab side of the snap so it corresponds to the panel snap and is completely hidden when closed. Repeat for the front panel’s top-left triangle and top-left flap (see Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 for placement). 4) STRAP. Use 1 jump ring to connect one end of the chain to the beadwork right below 1 flap. Repeat entire step on the other side. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kits including Swarovski crystals and Firelme braided beading thread: Scarlett Lanson, scarlatte424@yahoo.com, www.thebeadersmuse.com. 112 beadworkmapazine.com
THE VINE 1) FLOWER BASE. Work tubular peyote stitch to form the base of the flowers, then use netting stitch to add the petals and simple wireworked loops to add the centers: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 2’ of thread to string IA and 1C five times, for a total of 10 beads: pass through them again to form a circle and tie a knot with the tail thread. Pass through the first IA. Round 3: String 1C. pass through the next LA of the previous round: repeat around, then pass through the first 1C of this round. Round 4: String IA and pass through the next 1C of the previous round: repeat around, then pass through the first IA of this round. 2) PETALS. Make small, medium, and large flowers by varying the quantity of seed beads that make up the petals; the number of petal beads for a small flower is listed first, with numbers for medium and large flowers listed in parentheses: Outer petals: String 4A (5A, 6A) and IB: pass back through the last 1A just strung; string ЗА (4A, 5A) and pass through next IA of the last base round (Fig. l); repeat four times for a total of Oncejou make one of these flowers, Fig. 1: Working the first outer petal 5 petals, securing the last petal in the same bead where the first petal began TECHNIQUES :: right-angle weave :: tubular peyote stitch :: netting See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. jou'Il understand the inspiration for this piece. They are so fun to make and wear,jiou won’t want to stop. Woven onto hand-dyed silk with a right-angle-woven vine, these blos- soms are a wreath forjour wrist. Fig. 2: Finishing the out. > petals 114 beadworkmagazine.com
Inner petals: Pass through the next IC of the base to get into position for the second round of petah. String ЗА (4A. 5A) and IB: pass back through the last lAjust strung; string 2A (ЗА. 4A) and pass through the next IC of the base; repeat four times for a total of 5 petals, securing the last petal in the same bead where the first petal began (Fig. 3). Secure the threads and trim. 3) FLOWER CENTER. Use a head pin to string 1 bicone and 1 disc: form a simple loop large enough for the silk cord to pass through, about Ve” diameter. Push the loop down through the center of a flower and set aside. 4) FLOWER DOZEN Repeat Steps 1-3 for a total of 9 color A flowers (2 small, 3 medium, and 4 large): make one flower of each size, switching color A and color В (12 flowers in all). BRACELET 5) TRELLIS. Create a right-angle-weave strip with 12 beads per unit that is 2 units wide and P/2" longer than your wrist (the base will condense when you weave your silk cords through). Use C beads inter- spersed with accent beads in green hues to give your base texture. Unit 1: Use 6’ of conditioned thread to string 12 beads: pass through them again to form the first unit. Tie a knot with the tail and working threads to secure. Units 2 and on: String 9 beads; pass through the last 3 beads passed through and the ftrst 6 just strung. Continue in this manner until base is 1W longer than your wrist (Fig. 4). Note that your thread will alternate clockwise and counterclockwise for each unit. Fig. 4: Units I -3 Second row: Pass through beads to exit the side of the last unit. String 9 beads; pass through the last 3 beads passed through (the last unit in the previous row), and the first 3 beads just strung (Fig. 5). Continue stringing 6 beads for Fig. 5: Starting the second row each new unit, weaving through beads of the previous row and units, for the length of the strip (Fig. б). Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 6: Unit 2 of the second row 6) VINE. Lay the flowers out on your work surface alongside the beaded trellis; vary small, medium, and large flowers in MATERIALS 12g ruby-lined lime size 11 seed beads (A) 8 g orange-lined amber size 11° seed beads(B) 8 g green-lined green size 11L seed beads (C) 4 g assorted green/bronze size 11 ’-8° accent beads (seed, hex, triangle, etc.) 12 fire opal 6mm crystal bicones 1 brass 7A" shank button 12 sterling silver 2.5mm discs 12 sterling silver 20-gauge 1 " head pins with ball ends 2 hand-dyed 10" silk cords in orange and green Size D beading thread Thread conditioner TOOLS Beading needle Scissors Wire cutters Chain-nose pliers Round-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 8" both the main and alternate colors. Weave a silk cord through the units of each row of the trellis, adding flowers by passing through the wire loop as you go. Note: You may need to whipstitch the ends of the ribbon with thread to keep it from fraying as you weave through the beadwork. 7) CLASP. At one end of the trellis, use one ribbon to string the button, then tie a square knot with both ribbons. Tie the other ends together in an overhand knot to create a loop, leaving room for the button to slip through. Trim excess ribbon. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kits including Swarovski crystals and Nymo nylon beading thread: Glass Garden Beads, (507) 645-0301, www.glassgardenbeads.com. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 115
earrings pagoda earrings JANICE BERKEBILE TECHNIQUES :: wireworking :: oxidizing See pull-out stitch guide between pp. -18-49 (or helpful technique information. Janice is inspired by the graceful contours found in traditional Japanese motifs. The wire-wrapped framework of these jeweled earrings is based on the graceful curves oj a pagoda. She likes to Jbcus on form when teaching and has found that subtle movements of the pliers will dramatically change the appearance of the wire. 116 beadworkmagazine.com
Note: Perform each step for both earring pieces before moving on to the next step. 1) FRAME. Cut ¥4" of 14-gauge wire. Use the chasing hammer, pounding pad. and block to hammer each end of the wire into a paddle shape, don’t flatten the entire wire. Use ring-bending pliers to shape the center of the wire into a boomerang-shaped curve. Lighth texture the flat front of the curve with rhe embossing hammer ( or the ball-peen side of the chasing hammer .. Use a permanent marker to designate the center and Vie” awav from the center on both sides to indicate the position of the 3 wire eyes (Fig. 11. Fig. 1: Marking zr.-: 2) WRAPPING. Hold the frame ihceup with the paddle ends pc t wn. Leaving а Г tail pointing place the 22-gauge wire on top *: nght side of the frame and make 3 *тар< toward the center, stopping ^tth the --.re extend- ing up behind the frame r - nrst mark. Eyes: Hold the round-n-t - phers behind the wrapping wire. and par- allel to the frame «'• nz *rre over and around the .: -er л-- : th* pliers, stopping with the v»"- : trward between the frame 2- z th* t cers <Fg,2). Fig. 2: Alaltmg the first eye the round-nose pliers in the curve of the frame. Bend the wire up in front of the frame, around Fig. 3: Forming the arch the base of the pliers, and down in front of the frame next to the wraps already in place (fig. 3). Make 2 wraps, bend the tail wire to the back of the frame, and trim. 3) BEAD CAPS. Use 4" of 28-gauge wire to string 1 briolette, leaving а IW tail. Fold both ends of the wire up to meet at the top of the briolette. Use the short end to form a wrapped loop that attaches to the center eye on the earring frame (Fig. 4a). Wrap the longer wire around the existing wire wraps at the top of the brio- lette and continue to smoothly coil the wire down over the top of the briolette to form a bead cap. Use the end of the wire to form a decorative spiral at the front of the briolette (Fig. 4b). Fig. 4: Attaching the briolette Dangles: Use a head pin to string 1 silver spacer and 1 citrine round: form a wrapped loop that attaches to a side eye of the frame. Repeat for the remaining eye. MATERIALS 2 ametrine 12.5x14mm briolettes 4 citrine 4-5mm faceted rounds 4 sterling silver 3mm daisy spacers 4 sterling silver 24-gauge 1 ” ball-end head pins 8" of fine silver 28-gauge wire 2’ of fine silver 22-gauge wire 4" of sterling silver 20-gauge dead-soft wire 1 %" of sterling silver 14-gauge dead-soft wire Liver of sulfur TOOLS Flush cutters Chasing hammer Pounding pad and block Fretz embossing hammer Ring-bending pliers Regular and long round-nose pliers Chain-nose pliers Burr cup File Permanent marker Pro-Polish pad, fine steel wool (0000), or soft brass brush FINISHED SIZE: 7/в X U/u" nose pliers to make a slight upward bend at the other end of the wire (Fig.5). Smooth the ends of the wire with a burr cup. Use round-nose pliers to slightly open the small spiral, attach the Fig. 5: Making the ear wire arch of the earring frame, and close the spiral to secure. 5) PATINA. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to patina the metal with liver of sulfur. When dry, polish with a Pro-Polish pad. fine steel wool (0000), or a soft brass brush. ♦ Remove the pliers Make wraps around the fra rr. * - rracz the center mark and form a >*.-:t -• - Make 3 wraps arounc the — <r- reach ’he third mark anc :>r—. a r -t e*e. Arch: Make 2 wraps after tze t*..ri eve. stopping with th* exrer. z.zz up. behind the frame “ the raddle ends pointing up • - - — e zase of 4) EAR WIRES. Use the chasing hammer to form a flat paddle at one end of 2” of 20-gauge wire. Use the tip of the round-nose pliers to roll the paddle one and one half times into a small spiral. Hold the widest point of the round-nose pliers behind the spiral and curve the wire back over the pliers to form a shep- herd's hook. Use the chasing hammer to slightly flatten the hook area. Use chain- RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Gemstones: QuiltWorks Northwest, (425) 462-8992. Fretz hammers: Wired Arts, www.wiredarts.net Pliers: Rio Grande, (800) 545-6566, www.riogrande.com 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 117
terracita bracelet iw MARCIA DECOSTER TECHNIQUE :: right-angle weave between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. V ' Every year, Marcia travels to the quiet coastal town of I Manzanillo, Mexico, loaded down with design inspiration and beads. In December 2004, she brought with her a book containing Frank Hess- designed costume jewelry from the 1950s. A bracelet designed with rose montei-studded medallions caught her eye and O -Z inspired her to create similar shapes encrusted with crystals and fire-polished beads and I
1 ) MEDALLION BASE. Round 1: Use 4’ of thread to string 16B; tie a knot with the tail thread to form a circle. Pass through the first 2 beads to begin the first round of circular right-angle weave: Unit 1: String 8B: pass through the last 2 beads passed through and the first 2B just strung (Fig. l). Fig. 2: Unit 3: String 6B and pas $ through the last 2 beads of the prevto u> unit, the last 2 beads of the circle and the first 2 beads just .strung Rg 3 Fig. 3: Units 4-7: Repeat Unit- 2 and 3 stringing6B and alterr. rir.£ thread direction for each unit Unit8: String 4B; pass down through the first 2 beads of the first unit, back through 2 beads of the circle, through the last 2 beads of the previous unit and the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Round 2: String 7B and pass through the last 2 beads passed through and the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 5). Fig. 1: Unit 2: String 6B: pass back through the next 2 beads of the circle up through the last 2 beads of the previous unit, through the 6 beads just strung and the next 2 beads of the ircle Fig. 2). Fig. 6: Finishing Round 2 MATERIALS 10 g bronze luster size 15 seed beads (A) 15 g olivine gold luster size 11 ° seed beads (B) 5 g green luster size 11° seed beads (C) 24 olivine AB 4mm crystal bicones 72 black 4mm fire-polished rounds 96 green mottled 4x2mm nailheads 1 gold 6x8mm magnetic clasp* Beading thread in color to match beads TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle *Do not use a magnetic clasp if you wear a pace- maker, magnets interfere with the electrical impulses that make a pacemaker perform. FINISHED SIZE: 8 «A” 2) EMBELLISHMENT Cover the base net with accent and seed beads: Filling: Pass through a pair of beads between 2 units in the second round. String I nailhead and pass through the next pair of beads (Fig, 7). Continue around to add a nailhead to each unit in Round 2, then repeat to add a 4mm bead to each unit in Round I. Fig. 5: Continue working right-angle weave, stringing 5B and passing through 2 beads of the previous round in alternating directions for each unit; string 3B to complete the sixteenth unit (Fig. 6). Fig. 7: Picots: Exit from a bead between Rounds I and 2. String ЗА and pass through the next 2 beads; continue around for a total of 16 picots (Fig. 8). Center: Exit from a bead in the founda- tion circle. String I bicone, skip 2 beads, and pass through the follow- ing 2 beads; repeat three times to add 4 bicones to the center of the medal- lion. Pass through the first bicone, string IA. and pass through the next 41 Favorite lewelrv Designs 119
Fig. 8: bicone; continue around (Fig. 9). Pass through the bicones and seed beads several times to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the outer edge of the last round. Pass through all the edge beads, pulling the thread tight to snug the beads together and shape the medallion; pass through the beads again to reinforce, then set aside. Fig. 9: Repeat Steps 1—2 for a total of 6 medal- lions. 3) CONNECTIONS Work 2 right-angle- weave units along the edge of a medal- lion. using 2 of the edge beads and 6C to form the first unit. Work 2 more units using C beads, passing through edge beads of a second medallion, to make a 4-unit connection (Fig. 10). Embellish each unit with a nailhead as before, then weave through all the beads to reinforce the connection. Pass through beads to the opposite edge, and repeat to connect the next medallion. Fig. 10: 4) CLASP. Using C beads work a 4-unit strip at the end of the bracelet, opposite from the last connection. Work a fifth unit, and attach one half of the clasp (Fig. 1l). Weave through beads several times to reinforce, secure the thread, and trim. Attach the other half of the clasp to the underside of the first medallion near the center of beads. ♦ Fig. 11: RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystals and seed beads: Out on a Whim, (800) 232-3111, whimbeads.com. Nailheads: Creative Castle, (805) 499-1377, www.creativecastle.com. 120 beadworkmagazine.com
bracelet к ' - ! s See pull out stitch guide between pp. 4 8 “49 for helpful technique information. TECHNIQUES :: square stitch Kathleen loves color and color blending. Randomly mixing colors together didn’t make her happy because it often produced uneven blocks of * color. So, she developed a simple pattern that subtly integrates new colors. The formula ч is very simple and can be adapted to monet’s garden bracelet KATHLEEN LYNAM Perfect for GIFT Giving 122 beadworkmagazine.com
1) BASE. Use 3’ of thread and light green size 8°s to make a j aare-stitched strip that is 6 beads wide and ion^ enough to fit comfortable around the wrist, minus Vs” for the clasp ' about 54 rows). 2) CLASP BUTTON. Anchor a new thread to the center oi the second row of the bracelet base, exiting between the third and fourth beads. String the but- ton. pass into the beach n the base again, and through the button. Pass through the button and beads several times to reinforce. Weave through the beads to either end of the third row. passing through the edge bead toward the center of the base. 3) FLOWERS. String 3 dark green size ll°s, 2 medium green size 1 l°s. 2 light green size ll°s. ’ flower-bloom size 8°. and the flower-bloom bead's coordinat- ing size 15°. Skipping the Last bead strung, pass back through the beads just strung and through the next base bead of the same row. Repeat across to work 5 fringe legs (Fig. 1). Pass through the closest end bead of the next row. from the outside to the inside of the base. Fig. 1: Working u- - 4) TRANSITIONS. Divide the number of base rows by the number of flower bloom colors to determine how' many rows to work for each color section. If you have fifty-two rows fiftv-four rows minus the first two rows with the but- ton), divided by ten colors, vou will work five rows in each color section; two sec- tions will have six rows. The last two rows of each section are transition row's. Repeat Step 3 to work the determined number of solid-color rows. For the first transition row, work one new color of bloom on every-other fringe leg. For the second transition row, work all new color beads, with one old color in the center of the row (Fig. 2). Continue with rows of solid color, followed by two tran- sition rows, for the length of the base. Ftg. 2: Transitioning colors 5) CLASP LOOP. When you reach the last row of the bracelet base, string enough seed beads to fit around the button to act as the clasp loop. Pass through the base and half of the loop again. *String I flower-bloom size 8° and 1 size 15°; pass back through the size 8° and the next bead of the loop. Repeat from * to add another bloom to the end of the loop (Fig. 3a). Pass through the loop several times to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. 6) EDGING. Anchor 3’ of thread to exit from an edge bead of the first row. String 3 size 15°s and pass under the loop that connects the first and second rows. String 1 drop bead and pass under the loop that connects the next two rows. Repeat down the side of the bracelet, alternating 3 size 15°s and I drop bead (Fig. 3b). When you reach the end of the bracelet, pass through the end-row beads and repeat for the other side of the bracelet. Secure the thread and trim. ♦ Fig. 3: Adding the clasp loop and edging MATERIALS 2 g each size 8° seed beads in 10-14 differ- ent colors, for the flower blooms 10 g light green size 8° seed beads, for the base 8 g each size 1T seed beads in dark, medium, and light green, for flower stalks 2 g size 15° seed beads in same colors as flower blooms 2 g dark green size 15® seed beads, for edging 8 g clear 3x4mm drops 1 glass 10mm shank button Green beading thread TOOLS Beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 6‘Л ” RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Miyuki fringe drops and all other beads and findings: Land of Odds, www.landofodds .com. 41 Favorite lewelrv Desicms 173
earr turquoise couture JENNIFER VANBENSCHOTEN Inspired by high-end earrings found on the pages of a fashion magazine, these eagy-to-make right-angle-weave earrings are the perfect addition to any fash ion -forward wardrobe. Perfect for GIFT Giving TECHNIQUES :: one- and two- needle right-angle weave See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. ARTIST'S TIPS • To strengthen and stabilize the earrings, weave as much of the extra working thread as possible into the beadwork before trimming. Be careful not to break any beads-if it feels tight when you insert the needle into a bead, don't force it. • When working with two needles, stash the extra needle to prevent tangling the thread or losing the needle. If using a padded work surface, weave the needle into the padding; if working on a hard surface, use a small piece of clear tape to secure the needle. • This pattern is extremely versatile. Try replacing the turquoise rounds with 3mm gemstone, fire-polished, or crystal rounds, or size 8° seed beads. 124 beadworkmagazine.com
1) CENTER. Use 5’ of conditioned thread and two-needle right-angle weave to work the center strip ot the earring: Row 1, Unit 1: Place one needle on each end of the thread Use the right needle to string {I size 15° and I turquoise round} four times. Slide the beads to the middle of the thread and pass the left needle through the last turquoise round strung to fcrm a circle. Row 1, Units 2-8: Use each needle to string I size 15°, I turquoise г and. and I size 15°. Use the left needle to string I tur- quoise round pass the right needle back through it to complete the unit. Repeat to make a strip S units .: Ag. 1). Fig. 1: 2) SIDE 1. With the tead*•: rk horizontal and the working thrnicj ’ i the right, use single-needle ngh: -r.g * - -.e to create one half of the ear-ing flow 2, Unit 1: L sing r e nee die that is currently pointing ~*ave through beads to exit the rch* side of the top turquoise round of the seventh uni t in Row I. String ’ size 15’ and 1 tur- quoise round) three times and 1 size 15°; pass thro ugr. _-.r turquoise round exited and the hrs-t 6 beads just added to forrr. ' _ - 2 I Fig. 2: Siib - « - • ' fow 2, Unit 2: St ring - - *: and pass through the top turquocse round of the sixth unit in Re*» . String 1 size 15°, 1 turquoise round. 1 size 15°, I turquoise round, and! size 15°; pas t h t'o ugh the adjacent side bead of the previous Row 2 unit and the first 4 beads of’ _nn. 3 Fig. 3: Side ?, Row 2. Unit 2 Row 2, Unit 3: String 1 size 15°, I turquoise round, 1 size 15°, 1 turquoise round, and 1 size 15°; pass through the top bead of the fifth unit in Row 1. String 1 size 15° and pass through the adjacent side bead of the previous Row 2 unit; weave through beads to exit from the top bead of Row 2, Unit 2 (Fig. 4). Fig. 4: Side 1, Rc-'.v 2, Unit Points: String (1 size 15° and I turquoise round) three times and 1 size 15°; pass through the last bead exited to form 1 unit (Fig. 5a). Weave through beads to exit from the top bead of the third unit in Row 1. Work 1 unit as before (Fig. 5b). Set the needle aside. Fig. 5: Adding the points 3) SIDE 2. Flip the work over and repeat Side 1 using the other needle. 4) LOOP. Weave both needles through beads to exit from opposite ends of the side bead at the start of Row 1. Use each needle to string 5 size 15°s. Use both nee- dles to string 1 turquoise round. Use the left needle to string 11 size 15°s; pass back through the beads just strung with the right needle to form a loop. Weave each needle through the headwork* to reinforce (Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim. MATERIALS 1 g metallic silver size 15° seed beads 104 turquoise 3mm rounds 1 pair of sterling silver ear wires White size В nylon beading thread Thread conditioner (optional) TOOLS Scissors 2 size 10 beading needles 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 3” Fig. 6: Completing the loop Open the loop of 1 ear wire as you would a jump ring, attach it to the seed-bead loop, and close the ear-wire loop. 5) Repeat Steps 1—4 for a second earring. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Turquoise: Beads World, (212) 302-1199, www.beadsworldusa.com. Ear wires and Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www .firemountaingems.com. Seed beads: Out On A Whim, (707) 664-8343, wwwwhimbeads .com. I I 4) Favorite Jewelry Design* 125
disco squares bracelet MARCIA DECOSTER Layered right-angle weave is the secret behind the square links in this exuberant bracelet strung on stretch cord. TECHNIQUES :: right-angle weave :: stringing See pulbout stitch guide between pp, 48-49 for helpful technique rnformation. 126 beadvvorkmagazinr.com
1) LAYERED SQUARE. Use doubled thread and right-angie weave to make a layered square: Layer 1: Use frosted lavender size ll°s to work 1 square. 7 units wide and 7 rows long. Layer 2: Exit the left horizontal1 side bead of the bottom-right unit, toward the center of the be - •: work. String 1 matte aqua size 11° and pass up through the next horizontal bead in the column of right angie-weave units. Work 5 more stitches with 1 matte aqua size 11° in each to complete Column 1. adding a total or 6 matte aqua size ll°s. Weave through beads tc exit down through the horizontal bead at the top of the next column •: 1 units. String 1 matte aqua size . I‘ and p«ass down through the next horizontal bead in the column. Repeat as before to complete Column 2. adding a total ot 6 matte aqua size ll°s Repeat this step to add 4 more columns of matte aqua size ll°s (Fig. l). Use tuchsia-kned dear AB size fig. 1:4ddr»-i _ Note: Each unit consists of matte aqua side beads and fuchsia-lined dear AB top and bottom beads. Layer 3: Following the method used in Layer 2 and excluding the first and last rows, stitch white-lined lime size 1 l°s between the vertical fuchsia-lined clear AB beads to work five 4-bead-wide rows on top of Layer 2. Use turquoise bicones to complete the right-angle- weave units (Fig. з). Fig. 3: Working the Layer 3 rows (blue thread) and completing the units with bicones (red thread) Embellishment: Stitch 1 gold size 15° between each bicone (Fig. 4). Weave through beads to exit an edge bead of Layer 1. Do not cut the thread; set aside. MATERIALS 1 g each of matte aqua, white-lined lime, fuchsia-lined clear AB, hot pink, frosted lavender, and frosted lime size 11 seed beads 1 g each of silver-lined lime and gold size 15° seed beads 20 each of amethyst AB2X, light amethyst AB2X, blue zircon AB, turquoise AB2X, and dark red coral AB2X 3mm crystal bicones 44 light Siam AB 3mm crystal bicones 12 mottled turquoise 6x4mm fire-polished rondelles White 4 lb braided beading thread 20" of clear 1 mm stretch elastic cord Jewelry cement TOOLS Scissors Size 12 sharp needle Wide-eye needle Pointed tweezers FINISHED SIZE: 6” Base connections: Match the layered square and the matte aqua base: use the working thread of the layered square to string 1 white-lined lime size 11°; pass through the matching edge bead of the matte aqua square. String 1 white-lined lime size 11°; pass through the last bead exited on the layered square to form a right-angle- weave unit. Pass through the next 3 beads in the unit and the next edge bead on the layered square. Continue around the square, using size ll°s to complete right-angle-weave units that connect the layered square and matte aqua base (Fig. 5). 11 °s to create right -angle-weave un it s that incorp: r.. - -r - eads added in Columns 1-6 Ag 1 Fig. 2: Compact ”£ er’ ts Fig. 4: Embellishing Layer 3 2) BASES. Use right-angle weave and matte aqua size ll°s to work 1 square. 7 units wide and 7 rows long. Secure the thread and trim; set aside. Repeat using hot pink size ll°s for a second base. 3) SQUARE ASSEMBLY. Join the layered square, matte aqua base, and hot pink base using right-angle weave: Fig. 5: Connecting the layered square to the matte aqua base Use the same method and white-lined lime size ll°s to join the edges of the hot pink base to the matte aqua base. Embellishment: Weave through beads to exit an edge bead of the layered square. String 1 gold size 15° and pass through 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 127
the next edge bead. Repeat around the layered square. Use the same method and lime size 15°s to embellish the edges of the hot pink base. Secure the thread and trim. This completes Square 1. 4) SQUARES. Repeat Steps 1-3 five times for a total of 6 squares using the following colors of size ll°s and bicones in Step 1; continue to embellish Layer 3 and the edge of the layered square with gold size 15°s as before: Square 2: Work Layer 1 with matte aqua. For Layer 2. work Columns 1 and 6 with frosted lavender and Columns 2-5 with white-lined lime; complete the right-angle-weave units with frosted lavender. Work the Layer 3 rows with fuchsia-lined clear AB and complete the right-angle-weave units with dark red coral bicones. Note: For this square, use frosted lavender size 1 l°s instead of matte aqua for the base between the layered square and hot pink base. Square 3: Work Layer 1 with fuchsia-lined clear AB. For Layer 2, work Columns 1 and 6 with white-lined lime and Columns 2—5 with frosted lavender: complete the right-angle-weave units with white-lined lime. Work the Layer 3 rows with matte aqua and the right-angle-weave units with light Siam bicones. Square 4: Work Layer 1 with frosted lavender. For Layer 2, work Columns 1 and 6 with fuchsia-lined clear AB and Columns 2-5 with matte aqua; complete the right-angle-weave units with fuchsia-lined clear .AB. Work the Layer 3 rows with frosted lime and the right-angle-weave units with amethyst bicones. Square 5: Work Layer 1 with fuchsia-lined clear AB. For Layer 2, work Columns 1 and 6 with hot pink and Columns 2-5 with frosted lime; complete the right-angle-weave units with hot pink. Work Layer 3 rows with frosted laven- der and the right-angle-weave units with zircon bicones. Square 6: Work Layer 1 with matte aqua. For Laver 2, work Columns 1 and 6 I with fuchsia-lined clear AB and Columns 2-5 with frosted lavender; complete the right-angle-weave units with fuchsia-lined clear AB. Work Layer 3 rows with frosted lime and the right-angle-weave units with light amethyst bicones. Note: For this square, use frosted lavender size ll°s instead of matte aqua for the base between the layered square and hot pink base. 5) BRACELET ASSEMBLY. Use 10” of elastic cord to string 1 light Siam bicone. 1 rondelle. and 1 light Siam bicone. Place a wide-eye needle at the end of the elastic and pass through the side of one square in the space between the second and third white-fined lime size ll°s that join the bases. Exit between the correspond- ing beads on the opposite side. Remove the wide-eye needle. Repeat entire step five times to connect all 6 squares. Repeat entire step, passing through the square between the sixth and seventh white-lined lime size ll°s that join the bases. Tie the ends of the first cord together using a tight overhand knot as close to lite beads as possible; repeat using the second elastic. Secure the knot with a drop of cement and allow to dry. Use tweezers to push the knots into the squares' interiors. ♦ EDITOR'S TIP Instead of finishing the bracelet with elastic cord, use .018 or .019 beading wire, crimping pliers, and 2mm crimp tubes, to secure the beads to a 2-strand clasp. , A R T I S T'..S....T I P S........... ! • You may find it helpful to use a short (also called a sharp) needle when working the top layers of the ; squares. j • As conf igured here, this bracelet fits \ a small wrist You can adjust the size by changing the size and/or quantity of the accent beads strung i between the squares. For a large wrist, you might also want to make i a seventh square. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads and Swarovski crystals: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads .com. Rondelles: York Novelty Imports, (800) 223-6676, www.yorkbeads.com. Stretch Magic elastic cord and G-S Hypo jewelry cement: Michaels, (800) 642-4235, www.michaels.com. 128 beadworkmagazine.com
bracelet ring around the rosie LAURA MCCABE TECHNIQUES :: peyote stitch :: picot See pull-out stitch guide between pp 48-49 for helpful technique information. This piece, inspired by a Victorian beaded-flower form created with "lacy stitch " (or netting), celebrates form, dimension, and beadwork history. 130 beadworkmagazine.com
1) FLOWER BASE. Use cylinder and size 15° seed beads to work a netted base: Base Round 1: Use 6’ of conditioned thread to string 4E. leaving a 6" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle; pass through the first bead strung. Base Round 2: String 3E; pass through the next IE from Round I. Repeat around to add a total of 12E. Weave through beads to exit from the second bead added in this round. Base Round 3: String 5E; pass through the middle bead at the tip of the next Round 2 net. Repeat around to add a total of 20E. Weave through beads to exit from the third bead added in this round. Base Round 4: String 7E; pass through the middle bead at the tip of the next Round 3 net. Repeat around to add a total of 28E. Weave through beads to exit from the third bead added in this round. Base Round 5: String ЗА; pass through the fifth bead of the same Round 4 net just exited and weave through beads to exit from the third bead of the next Round 4 net. Repeat around to add a total of 12A. Weave through beads to exit from Round I J, 1: Bose Rounds 1-5 , 4 ' (Fig. 1). Fig. 2: Adding a montee 2) PETALS. Use a montee and size 15° seed beads to embellish the flower base: Center: String 1 montee: check that the montee is faceup, and pass through IE on the opposite side of Base Round 1 and the next IE. Pass through the mon- tee s second channel and the opposite IE (Fig. 2). Petal Round 1: String 5D: pass through the next IE from Base Round 1. Repeat around to add a total of 20D. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead in the next Base Round 2 net. Petal Round 2: String 5D; pass through the third bead in the same net and weave through beads to exit from the first bead in Fig. 3: Petal Rounds 1 and 2 the next Base Round 2 net (Fig. з). Repeat around to add a total of 20D. Weave through beads to exit from the mid- dle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 2 net. Petal Round 3: String 5A; pass through the middle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 2 net. Repeat around to add a total of 20A. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead of the next Base Round 3 net. Petal Round 4: String 7B; pass through the fifth bead in the same net and weave through beads to exit from the first bead of the next Base Round 3 net Fig. 4: Petal Rounds 3 and 4 (Fig. 4). Repeat around to add a total of 28 В. Weave through beads to exit from the mid- dle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 3 net. Petal Round 5: String 9C; pass through the middle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 3 net. Repeat around to add a total of 36C. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead of the next Base Round 4 net. Petal Round 6: String ПС; pass through the seventh bead in the same net and weave through beads to exit from the first bead of the next Base Round 4 net (Fig. 5). Fig. 5: Petal Rounds 5 (blue thread) and 6 (red thread) MATERIALS 7 g metallic 24k gold size 15° Japanese seed beads (A) 2 g opaline 24k gilt-lined size 15° Japanese seed beads (B) 4 g matte metallic sterling silver size 15° Japanese seed beads (C) 2 g metallic 24k gold size 15° Czech charlottes (D) 4 g matte metallic 24k gold size 11е cylinder beads (E) 10 g metallic 24k gold size 110 cylinder beads(F) 3 g blue-green 24k gold-lined size 11е Japanese seed beads (G) 6 emerald 3mm crystal roses montees 2 opaline 4x2.5mm pressed-glass rondelles Clear 6 lb braided beading thread Microcrystalline wax TOOLS Size 13 English beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 7 1/2 ” around to add a total of 44C. Weave through beads to exit from the middle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 5 net. 3) RINGS. Use cylinder and seed beads to work a tubular peyote-stitched ring off the flower: Ring Rounds 1 and 2: String HA; pass through the middle bead at the tip of the next Base Round 5 net. Repeat around to add a total of 44A. Ring Round 3: Work 24 tubular peyote stitches using IA in each stitch (Fig. б). Fig. 6: Rounds 1 and 2 (blue thread); Round 3 (red thread) Л. 1 t A a • —
Ring Rounds 4-7, top: Work 4 rounds of peyote stitch, using IF in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Ring Round 1. Ring Rounds 4-6, bottom: Work 3 rounds of peyote stitch, using IF in each stitch. Zip the last rows of each side together to form a solid ring. Embellishment: Exit from IF of Round 7. String 1G; pass through the next IF in the same round. Repeat around to add a total of 10G. Weave through beads to skip the next 2 stitches; continue work- ing 10 peyote stitches with 1G in each stitch (Fig. 7). Do not trim the thread. Set aside. Repeat Steps 1—3 five times for a total of 6 flowers. Fig. 7: Embellishing the ring 4) CONNECTORS. Use cylinder and seed beads to join the flowers: Row 1: Use the working thread on one of the flowers to string IF; pass through the next IF on the ring. Repeat to add another IF. Rows 2-4: Use 1F in each stitch to work 3 additional rows of peyote stitch. Zip the final row to one side of a second flower, stitching into the empty space between the G (Fig. 8). Weave through beads to exit the Row 4 edge bead. Fig. 8: Connecting 2 flowers Picots: String 3D; pass down through the connector s next edge bead. Weave through beads to exit from the opposite edge bead. String ЗА; pass down through the connector’s next edge bead (Fig. 9). Secure the thread; trim. ©□So □ 9 □ о о Fig. 9: Adding picots to the connector Repeat entire step four times to join all flowers into a band. 5) TOGGLE RING. Use tubular peyote stitch to work a clasp ring slightly smaller than one of the flower rings: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 2’ of conditioned thread to string 36A, leaving a 6” tail. Tie a knot to form a circle: pass through the first 2 beads strung. Round 3: Work 18 peyote stitches using IA in each stitch. Rounds 4-6, top: Work IF in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Rounds 4 and 5, bottom: Work IF in each stitch. Zip the last rows of each first side together to form a solid ring. Exit from IF on the Ring Round 6. top. Embellishment round: String 1G; pass through the next IF in the same round. Repeat to add a total of I7G. String IF; pass through the next 1F in the same round. Ring attachment: Use IF in each stitch to work a 2-bead-wide and 8-row-long strip of peyote stitch off the toggle ring, between the first and last G. Zip the end of the strip, as you did in Step 4, to the open space at one end of the bracelet. Add 1G to the end flower’s ring to fill the space near the end of the strip. Work two sets of 3D picots along each edge of the toggle connector as you did for the connectors in Step 4. Secure the thread and trim. эоа 9OC30 Fig. 10: Embellishing the tube 6) TOGGLE BAR. Use cylinder and seed beads and pressed-glass rondelles to create the bar side of the toggle clasp; Tube: Use 4’ of conditioned thread and IF in each stitch to work a 14-bead-wide and 12-row-long strip of peyote stitch. Zip the first and last rows together to form a tube. Exit from an edge bead. Tube edging: String IB, 1 rondelle. and ЗА; pass back through the rondelle. String IB; pass down through the next IF at the edge of the tube and up through the fol- lowing IF (Fig. 10). *String IB; pass through the ron- delle, ЗА, and back through the rondelle. Repeat from * three times to add a total of 6B. centering the rondelle over the opening in the tube. Pass through die center of the tube to exit from an edge bead at the other end. Repeat entire step to add a matching edging. Weave through beads to exit from the seventh bead from one edge of the tube. Bar attachment: Use IF in each stitch to work a 2-bead-wide and 11-row-long strip of peyote stitch off die center of the tube. Zip the end of the strip to the open space at the open end of the bracelet. Add 1G to the flower s ring to fill the space near the end of the strip. Work drree sets of 3D picots along each edge of the bar as you did for the connectors in Step 4 and clasp-ring attachment in Step 5. Secure all threads and trim. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kit containing Aiko cylinder beads, Fire Line braided beading thread, Swarovski crystal montees, and all other materials: Laura McCabe Jewelry, (860) 245-0455, www .lauramccabejewelry.com 127 workmaFazine.com
TINA KOYAMA Learn an innovative variation of herringbone stitch to create a fabulous zigzag pattern. Inspired by the pattern m the floor of the National Museum of the Bargello in Florence. Italy, this bracelet uses bugle and seed beads. The completed bracelet is as light and flexible as fabric. beautiful bargello / TECHNIQUES :: ladder stitch :: herringbone stitch See pull-out Mitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 133
I) BASE. Use 3’ of conditioned thread b string a tension bead, leaving a j5” tail. tow 1: Work a strip of ladder stitch 12B long. Remove the tension bead: do not trim the tail (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: U'piJ. uig How 1 the 2B placed in the previous row to maintain the slant. Use IC as the turnaround bead (Fig. s). Fig. 5: War king Row 5 MATERIALS 2 g silver metallic size 14 or 15° seed beads (A) 7 g silver metallic size 11 seed or cylindei beads(B) 4 g peacock AB 3mm bugle beads (C) 1 sterling silver 4x20mm 3-loop slide clasp Size D nylon or 4 lb braided beading thread Thread conditioner or beeswax TOOLS Size 10 beading needles Scissors Row 2: Use В to work I row of herring- bone stitch off the ladder-stitched strip. To make the turnaround, pass through the loop of thread at the bottom of the last 2 Row I beads, pas; up through the last Row I bead, and through the final bead from this row (Fig. 2). Fig. 2: Stitching Row 2 Row 3: Work the row in herringbone stitch using IB and IC in each stitch. After completing the last stitch, string IB (the turnaround bead) and passing up through die last C added (Fig. 3). .Vote.- The difference in bead size will cause the row to slant. Fig. 3: Working Row 3 with В and C Row 4: Work the row with IC and 2В in each stitch, treating the 2B as a single bead. Use IB as the turnaround bead (Fig. 4). the thread and trim. Fig. 4: Stitching Row 4 Row 5: Work the row with 2B and IC in each stitch. When securing each stitch, pass down through only the top В of 1 “ЗД kparlwnrkmacrazine.coTn Row 6: Repeat Row 4. Row 7: Repeat Row 5. Rows 8 and on: Repeat Rows 3—7 until the base is W shorter than the desired size. The work will zigzag every fifth row, starting with die Row 3 repeat (Fig. 6). Fig. 6: Fanning the zigzag Finishing: Use В to work 2 or 3 rows of herringbone stitch. Work a ladder- stitch thread path on the final row to mimic Row 1. Note: If necessary for fit. add rows of herringbone stitch, keep- ing in mind the clasp length. Secure the thread and trim. 2 ) CLASP. Use the tail thread to weave through Row 1 and exit down through the second bead from the left. String ЗА. the first loop of the clasp, and ЗА. Pass up through the third bead of Row 1 and exit the fourth. Attach the second loop as you did the first loop. Repeat for the third clasp loop. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce (Fig. 7). Secure Fig. 7: Attaching one half of the clasp FINISHED SIZE: 5V4" At the other end of the bracelet, secure 3’ of new thread that exits the third bead from either side of the last row. Attach the other half of the clasp as you did the first. ♦ RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Nymo nylon and FireLine braided beading threads and all beads and findings: Fusion Beads.com, (888) 781-3559.
bracelet Createjiour own fiesta using vivid, bold colors in a spiral, where simply changing bead sizes in tubular peyote creates a dynamic twist effect. Oncejwu get the hang of the spiraling stitches,_you'll have a samba onjiour wrist in no time! confetti spiral MARILYN T. ARONSON TECHNIQUES :: tubular and circular peyote stitch See pull-out stitch guide between pp. 48-49 for helpful technique information. 41 Favorite Jewelry Designs 135
) S ? IR AL BO D Y Work rounds of ubular p"vUtr stitch with different-size leads to form a spiral Rounds 1 and 2: Use 5’ of thread to string 2E. 2F. 2G. 2B. 2D, 2C. and 9A, leaving an 18” tail. Pass through all beads again to make a circle, exit from the first E. Round 3: Work peyote stitch around with I bead in each stitch: IE. IE. IG. IB, ID. IC. and 4A. Exit the first E to step up for the next round (Fig. 1). Fig. 1: Working Round 3 Rounds 4 and on: Repeat Round 3 until you reach the desired length; continue the pattern by always adding the same bead from which you exited. 2) END DECREASE. Use A to work decrease rounds in circular peyote stitch (Fig. 2): Fig. 2: Decreasing at the end End Rounds 1 and 2: Exit the final rounds E; work IA in each stitch. End Round 3 (decrease): Work the round, making a decrease in every other stitch. End Round 4: Work IA in each stitch. End Round 5 (decrease): Work the round, making a decrease in every other stitch. End Round 6: Work IA in each stitch. Weave through the beads of this round again to tighten. If there is a gap in the middle, string IB and weave through beads on the other side of the gap. 3) BUTTON. Weave through beads to exit from a bead of End Round 5. String 7A. ID, the button. ID. and 7A. Pass through the A in Round 5 opposite the one you last exited (Fig. з). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Fig. 3: Attaching the button 4) END DECREASE AND LOOP. Thread the needle with the tail thread. Repeat Step 2 to decrease the end. Weave through beads to exit from a bead of End Round 5. Rounds 1 and 2: String 19A or enough to make a loop that fits snugly over the button. Pass through the A in Round 5 opposite the one last exited. Weave through beads to exit from the first bead of the loop. Round 3: Work 4 stitches using IA in each. Work 1 stitch using IB. Complete the round using IA in each stitch (Fig. 4). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. ♦ Fig. 4: Forming the clasp loop MATERIALS 10 g lime green opaque size 11 ° Japanese seed beads (A) 10 g turquoise opaque size 8” Japanese seed beads (B) 10 g salmon opaque size 8° Czech seed beads (C) 10 g lavender luster size 8 seed beads (D) 15g amethyst translucent size 6° Japanese seed beads (E) 15g lavender milky size 6° Czech or Japanese seed beads (F) 15g silver-lined orange transparent size 6 Japanese seed beads (G) 1 lime green 17mm plastic shank button Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread TOOLS Size 11 or 12 beading needle Scissors FINISHED SIZE: 10” RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads San Francisco Arts Cz Crafts, (707) 935-6756, www.sanfranciscoartscrafts .com and The San Gabriel Bead Co., (626) 447-7753, www.beadcompany.com. Fireline braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com. (888)781-3559. I- —гвгггэ-у i nr mm