Sunset Wellness In The West 2023

ISBN: 0039-5404

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WELLNESS
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Ways
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N AT I O N W I D E S H I P P I N G

Fresh-cut dahlias at
Bluma Flower Farm in
Berkeley, California.

Editor’s Letter
Why modernism matters.

Best of the West

Hot springs, cold plunges,
and other thermal delights.

Home & Garden

Inside Job

The Long View

Up on the Roof

Checklist

An Oregon home gets a
glamorous city-meetscountry interior refresh.

In the Hollywood Hills, a
sleek retreat sustainably
channels the iconic modernist Case Study architecture program.

CONTENTS

A flower farm blossoms on a
Berkeley rooftop.

WELLNESS 2023
What to do in your garden
now throughout the West.

Food & Drink

THOMAS J. STORY

52
62

Simply Soulful
Recipes from soul-food
queen Tanya Holland’s inspiring new cookbook.

Saintly in Sonoma
Gorgeous vegan dishes
from Little Saint in Healdsburg, California.

Foodie Valentine
Phoenix’s newest creative
culinary hotspot.

Easy Asian Sweets
Kat Lieu’s accessible and inspiring Asian baked goods.

Travel & Escapes

84
88

Palm Springs Eternal
The desert enclave evolves

Social clubs that combine fitness and high design.

Insider Guide
What to do, eat, and see in
Portland, San Diego, and
Santa Fe.

Voices of the West

spas, and restaurants.

The New Health Club

How to mindfully swim with
sharks in the Sea of Cortez.

again with new architecture,

Sharks and Serenity

Farmfluencer Nick Cutsumpas on the healing
power of urban agriculture.

ON THE COVER
Trista Gladden looks
out over Los Angeles.
Photograph by
TH O MAS J. STO RY

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

EDITOR’S NOTE

Mod at Heart
CHAIRMAN & PUBLISHER

Michael A. Reinstein

I was raised a modernist, but it was lost on
me until I was an adult. In 1959, my grandparents had a house built for their growing family.
It was a glass-and-steel structure designed in
the International Style: open plan, low-slung
roof with overhangs for shade, a glass curtain
wall on the outside. On weekends as a kid I’d
play with my cousins in this modernist box we
jokingly referred to as the hotel. It could take a
hit: built-in furniture, a brick indoor fountain
On location at Richard Neutra’s iconic
we called the grotto, linoleum floors that no
Kaufmann House in Palm Springs.
amount of pool water tracked in from outside
could damage. In this handsome purpose-built
home, we ran free.
The minimalist structure framed our days there as a family, as we lived a life full of warmth, the
oak groves of central Illinois visible through that glass curtain wall. Little did we know then that
the house would eventually make its way onto the National Register of Historic Places. It makes me
happy to think that what we kids thought of us the ultimate playhouse was worthy of preserving.
Today, when I walk into a vintage modernist home, I feel somehow more myself than when I’m in,
say, a Spanish revival or English cottage that references places and times past or far away. Without
distracting design, modernist houses allow us to be more aware of who we are in the moment.
It’s a feeling I had while visiting architect Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House in Palm Springs.
You know it from the classic Slim Aarons photograph “Poolside Gossip,” in which groovily dressed
people linger at cocktail hour by the pool. It’s the quintessence of midcentury living: indoor-outdoor life, a sleek yet inviting modernist house, beautiful people at ease, a pristine pool. The house
is striking, with dramatic desert mountains in the distance, but it’s the people that draw us in.
One of those people is Nelda Linsk, whom we had the honor of photographing thanks to my
friend and colleague, creative director Stephen Kamifuji, who met the indefatigable Linsk at an
event and persuaded her to pose for a photograph at the house she helped make famous. You can see
it on page 76 in a story about all the exciting happenings in Palm Springs: an architecturally significant housing development, new and retro restaurants, hot hotel and resort openings, and Modernism Week, the epic mid-February event devoted to modernist architecture and culture. It’s a unique
opportunity to step inside the homes that some of the world’s most talented architects envisioned
when they were fashioning the Western lifestyle we celebrate in these pages. I’m thrilled to report
that this year I and Sunset will be at Modernism Week for the first time since the pandemic. Come
find us and say hi. For a schedule of events, and to buy tickets, go to modernismweek.com.

—Hugh Garvey,

E D ITO R-I N - CH I E F

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Hugh Garvey
DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Sarah Yang
CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Wilson
PHOTO EDITOR

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STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

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TRAVEL EDITOR

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SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Kristin Guy
CONTRIBUTING HOME & DESIGN EDITOR

Christine Lennon
CONTRIBUTING GARDEN EDITOR

Deanna Kizis
VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL INITIATIVES

Matt Gross
DIGITAL PRODUCER/NEWSLETTER EDITOR

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LIFESTYLE CONTRIBUTOR

Camille Styles
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SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Tom Griffiths
Graydon Sheinberg

STEPHEN KAMIFUJI

Sunset Media International Corporation

Find it all in one place.

VISITANCHORAGE.NET

February 16-26, 2023
Architecture Tours by Modernism Week October–May
Tickets and Information

modernismweek.com

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In Palm Springs, California

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BEST

OF T H E

Fire and Ice

WEST

Throughout human history, the healing benefits of hot
springs, saunas, and cold plunges have been celebrated for
boosting circulation, reducing inflammation, and generally

From out-of-this-world outdoor saunas and
cold plunges to DIYs enjoyed right in your
own backyard, we have officially entered the
golden age of ritualized bathing.

making you feel like a brand-new human. And there’s no bet-

Story by KRI STA S I M M O N S

meditation teacher known as the IceMan who’s initiated ev-

Photograph by JE RE MY KO RES KI

ter place to put that all into practice than right here in the
West, where the striking natural beauty continues to inspire
innovation in wellness. Thanks to the recent popularity of
teachings from modern practitioners like Wim Hof—the Dutch
eryone from Gwyneth Paltrow to Jim Carrey and Oprah Winfrey—these ancient practices are back in the zeitgeist.

Chilling
out at
British
Columbia’s
Nimmo
Bay.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

MAPLE GROVE HOT SPRINGS
Slowing down is seamless at this
Thatcher, Idaho, retreat, where
guests can choose to sleep in yurts,
cabins, canvas tents, or under the
stars. All accommodations include
access to the 45 acres, including 6
hot spring pools, riverfront beach,
hiking trails, canoes and paddle
boards. maplegrovesprings.com

DRIFTWOOD SAUNA CLUB
Secret sauna sessions are the name of
the game at Driftwood, a traveling sauna
on wheels based in California that drifts to
various natural locales, bringing the R&R
to eager steamers. They can be booked
for private experiences as well, making it a
perfect option for retreats, events, and
weddings. driftwoodsauna.com

EXCERPTED FROM THERMAL: SAUNAS, HOT SPRINGS & BATHS BY LINDSEY BRO WITH PERMISSION
FROM CHRONICLE BOOKS, 2022. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: © 2022 ALI HARTWIG/
@ALIHARTWIG; © 2022 CAMRIN DENGEL/CAMRINDENGEL.COM ; CHRONICLE BOOKS

Now infrared saunas, heating blankets,
and chic ice baths are becoming just as
much a home design staple as a Viking
range or an Eames chair. But there’s perhaps
no more magical and restorative way to experience fire and ice than getting out into the wild.
In her new book, Thermal: Saunas, Hot
Springs, & Baths—Healing With Heat ($29.95,
Chronicle Books), California writer Lindsey
Bro celebrates saunas around the world in a
breathtaking collection of
photographs and stories that
beckon us all to indulge in
nature. To stoke the fire of
future wanderlust, we’ve
gathered a few of the best hot
springs properties in the
West for your perusal.

SHELDON CHALET
Perched on some of the tallest mountains in North America, this eco-conscious chalet
is the ultimate backcountry

NIMMO BAY

lodge. Strap on a harness and

Nestled into the old-growth forests of

explore ice crevasses and

British Columbia’s Great Bear Rain-

caverns in the nearby glacier,

forest, the nine-cabin floating lodge

then come back to unwind in

is the perfect place to spend time

their sauna with views of the

bathing in nature. Be pampered with

summit. sheldonchalet.com

massages in the treetop spa room,
soothe sore muscles in the floating
sauna, or soak in the cedar hot tubs
set at the base of the property’s cas-

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © 2022 MIKE PHAM/@PHAMUELPHOTO; © 2022 JEREMY KORESKI/
@JEREMYKORESKI; MAMA WUNDERBAR

cading waterfall. nimmobay.com

How to Spa at Home
As with anything in the wellness realm, consistency is key.
Here are some ways to integrate steam rituals, ice baths,
and herbal remedies in your
own home for daily use.

GOODLAND

M A M A W U N D E R BA R

JOLIE

HIGHER DOSE

Turn your backyard into
your very own Autocamp
with these gorgeous outdoor wood-fired spas
made from Western red
cedar. Made from 100%
recyclable materials in
Canada, the spa offers a
complete meditative
experience from the
stacking of firewood to the
stirring of water to the
sound of the crackling fire.
hellogoodland.com

Make your shower a fullblown aromatherapy
experience with a shower
bundle from local L.A.
alchemist Mama Wunderbar that includes lush
sprigs of eucalyptus,
chamomile, and lavender.
Double down on the
magic and cleanse with
her massaging soap bars
studded with natural healing crystals.
mamawunderbar.com

We all know that city water
isn’t the greatest, and this
easy-to-attach shower
head removes chlorine,
heavy metals, and other
contaminants from your
shower water to improve
your skin, hair, and wellbeing. It comes in five
different colors to match
your bathroom aesthetic,
too. jolieskinco.com

If you don’t have the
space for a fancy infrared
sauna in your personal
space, try out this genius
infrared blanket, which
seamlessly plugs into an
electrical outlet, allowing
you to turn any flat surface in your home into a
total zen zone. higherdose.com

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

STONE
WORKS
A GLOBAL
INSPIRATION
Styles looked to incorporate stone after being
inspired by its prominence
in Spanish and Italian
country houses and was
impressed by the elevated
quality and natural look of
Eldorado Stone’s collection. “We pull samples from
every corner of the globe
and follow a detailed,
rigorous process to decide
which materials have the
strongest potential to add
Grand Banks Limestone
to our portfolio of products,” says Sarah Lograsso,
director of portfolio
management for Eldorado Stone. The company’s craftspeople
hand-sort through natural rocks, choosing stones of pristine shape,
size, and detail to then create special molds from which to create
natural-looking manufactured stone pieces. “They call to mind all
the walls I’ve been pinning from country homes throughout Europe,”
says Styles.

IN THE DETAILS

Rough Cut Casa Blanca

Stone is among the most grounding and calming elements in a
home. It is also one of the most historical, with roots dating back to the
earliest days of civilization. Over centuries its gravitas, texture, and
earthiness have remained unparalleled, which is why stone continues
to play a prominent role in interior design today. These characteristics
are what inspired Camille Styles to turn to stone to elevate key areas
of her new Malibu home—our next Sunset Idea House.
Working with Eldorado Stone, the iconic brand revered for its wide
range of stone and brick veneer and stone products, Styles will be
creating statement walls on her modernized beach bungalow’s exterior. The home’s serene minimalism will be balanced by the timeless
aesthetic that only stone can provide. The result will be a fluid beauty
from the outside in. “There are floor-to-ceiling windows and large
glass doors throughout, so these exterior walls will feel almost like
part of the interior design,” says Styles, the founder and editor-inchief of her eponymous lifestyle platform Camille Styles. “You’ll
see them through the glass through every vantage point.”

An affinity for perfection is
shared between Eldorado Stone
and the creative entrepreneur.
As Styles says, “This home is all
about the clean lines and
simplicity of materials, so it’s
important that every
single element be thoughtfully
selected.” From Eldorado’s vast
collection, Styles is leaning
toward Country Rubble, a
rough-faced stone that harks
back to simplistic European
Country Rubble Stone
dwellings, in either the graytoned Palermo or neutral
Bella. She was drawn to the rustic edges, rich texture, and natural color
palettes of each, which are authentic stone attributes Eldorado celebrates. “Stone is also very textural and tactile, which lends some
additional richness in terms of visual appeal,” says Lograsso.

ALL TOGETHER
The design-minded stone exterior will lend a timelessness juxtaposed
with the home’s contemporary design, Scandinavian-inspired timber
cladding, and rustic corrugated metal roof. Styles describes the mix of
elements as unexpected yet simple. Ultimately, the finished blend will
be cohesive with the coastal landscape and a beautiful homage to an
ancient aesthetic. “We like to say that stone tells a story,” says Lograsso.
“It’s one of the most prolific design materials on the planet, and it has
been for thousands of years.”

PHOTO LEFT: ©GABRIELLE TOUCHETTE PHOTOGRAPHY; CAMILLE STYLES PHOTO BY MICHELLE NASH; OTHER IMAGES COURTESY ELDORADO STONE

For Sunset’s next Idea House, good design
is in the details. Here’s how designer-homeowner Camille Styles is using Eldorado
Stone to elevate her Malibu home.

STONE STIRS
T H AT

Like a diamond’s evolution from raw earth to unique design, every idea becomes
a reality that opens your imagination. Transform spaces into experiences worth sharing.
Bring your vision to life with Eldorado Stone.
Extraordinary can begin small and turn into the start of something beautiful.

HOME

GARDEN

An Inside Job
A Northwest Contemporary in Oregon
gets a radical interior refresh that bridges
country, cozy, and city for a couple of retired
New Yorkers starting over in the West.
Story by CH RI STI N E LE N N O N
Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

Interior designer Julie Hawkins

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

ngular and open, with soaring ceilings, cherrywood cabinetry, metal
railings, and glass tile accents, Northwest Contemporary houses built in
the Aughts have a distinct, and polarizing, style. You love them, or you
don’t love them. And if you’re in the
second camp, you may not even give
them a chance, no matter how appealing the total package is. Consider this
Ashland, Oregon, house, and its
lengthy list of pros.
“The property is stunning,” says
Julie Hawkins, the Napa Valley–based
interior designer who was hired by
the home’s new owners to create the
“soft industrial” decor they craved.
“They” are a couple of retired New
York Times editors and long-time
Brooklynites who had raised a family
in a 19th-century carriage house, and
were excited by the idea of more space
and expansive views.
“There’s a pretty pond, a large
pool, and a vintage barn. The views
are gorgeous, especially in the morning mist,” says Hawkins. “I’ve enjoyed
my morning coffee sitting in the
breakfast nook, looking out the window, many times.”
The con list is shorter, but more intimidating. The sprawling footprint
was the polar opposite of their snug
home of 20 years. And the finishes felt
frozen in time.
“All of the wood was cherry, very
red-orange. There was rainbow glass
mosaic tile in the kitchen and bathrooms,” says Hawkins, who was given
a budget and time frame that would
not allow for a full gut renovation. “I
absolutely loved working with these
clients, but the house…”
Here she trails off for a thoughtful
moment.
“It was the opposite of cozy. I will
admit there were a couple parts of it

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

By installing an
open, custom
metal storage
rack, Hawkins
created storage
without obscuring
any light. A builtin nook with custom leather cushions is an ideal
breakfast spot.

that I hated,” she says. Layering in
much-needed charm and carving out
warm, inviting nooks were challenges. “The fun part is that the areas that
I really disliked have become spots I
love.”
The owners discovered the region
after an open-minded, nationwide
search for a new home base. They
chose Ashland because of its proximity to great fishing, and its thriving
restaurant and arts scene. It’s the
home of a famed Shakespeare festival,
and it attracts like-minded ex-urbanites who aren’t ready to sacrifice access to handmade pasta and nuanced
wine lists. The house was large

enough for visiting family, and the
sizable kitchen was a draw. But when
they were faced with more square
footage to furnish than they ever
dreamed about, they knew they needed professional help. Together, they
worked with Hawkins to update some
of the more generic details with carefully chosen antiques, sculptural
lighting, strategic rugs, and a few
boldly papered walls.
The first decisions they made together were to install a few more windows to take in more of the view, reorient the primary bedroom, and
paint all of the floors a glossy black.
“Telling a contractor that you’re

Cork plank flooring in the
guest bedroom (top) and several coats of glossy black paint
(middle) worked around the
home’s too-warm wood tones.

going to paint a wood floor black,
oof—it isn’t fun,” laughs Hawkins.
“You don’t want to be shunned by the
woodworking community. Replacing
the floors was cost-prohibitive, and
this was our best solution. It was
great luck that we found a painter that
recommended the same black they
used for the floors of the sets for the
Shakespeare festival. It’s glossy, so it
reflects light and keeps the rooms
from looking too dark.”
They painted cabinetry and updated hardware instead of replacing
them outright.
“We painted many of the interior
walls in varying shades of gray, and

A massive collection of Playbills
was turned into a
sentimental and
stylish wall
installation.

Opposite: The former New Yorkers
wanted to maintain their sophisticated style with
modern antiques,
and cozy-chic sitting areas. This
page: a live-edge
wood headboard
and an industrial
sconce keep
things stylish and
spare in the primary bedroom.

selected a few places where wallpaper
would make a big impact,” says
Hawkins. “Papering that one wall behind the dining table really helped
carve out a nook, making it feel like a
separate space.”
Next on deck was modernizing the
kitchen. While it was outfitted with
impressive major appliances, it needed additional storage, and some
earthier elements to take down the
gloss factor.
“We had a metal fabricator build
shelves, both for extra storage, and to
create a separation from the main living area,” she says. “Replacing the
glass mosaic backsplash with Fireclay
Tile made a big difference, too.”
Creating a dedicated dining nook
was also a priority.
“We were lucky that we found the
perfect rug from Anthropologie, and
didn’t have to have one custom-made,”
says Hawkins. The single, papered wall
adds some glowy glamour. “The Michele Varian wallpaper is dark and
matte, but the branches are gold.”
The couple’s favorite nook in the
house is a small bar off of the foyer
that channels the low-lit, grownup
vibe of a boutique hotel lobby.
“I couldn’t stand that built-in bar
area at first,” says Hawkins. “Then we added a smoky mirror behind the open shelves with glassware, and a settee
from West Elm with leather chairs. They use it all the
time, and everyone loves it now.”
Furnishing the home, and finding interesting elements
to cover the bare walls, has been a labor of love.
“I would fly out to New York to meet them, and they’d
welcome me into their Brooklyn house. We walked
through the rooms, and it was so welcoming and warm.
We wanted to translate some of those feelings into a much
bigger space,” says Hawkins.
They selected some antiques from a local dealer down
the street to bring some New York west, and Hawkins introduced the owners to her favorite vintage shop in nearby
Eugene, Oak Street Vintage. They shopped via FaceTime.
A collection of Playbills from Broadway shows, accumulated over decades, became the basis of a fun wall installation
in the mudroom. A dollhouse from the owner’s childhood
in Kansas has become a storage hutch for her grandmother’s china. It was a creative collaboration that morphed
into a friendship. And the transition to a new, active life in
bucolic Ashland has been a huge success.
“Every part of the project was fun,” says Hawkins. “Taking this kind of outdated modern house, with yellow walls
and orange floors, and creating a comfortable home for
wonderful people has been a joy.”

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Well-placed wallpaper, like this botanical and bird
print by Pierre
Frey decorating
the pool bathroom, makes a
boxy modern
house feel cozier.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Michele Varian
wallpaper and an
asymmetrical Anthropologie rug
help carve a dining nook out of
the open living
space.

A storage unit
from Rejuvenation
solves the storage
and television
problem in the living room.

A graphic black
and white print
from Farrow &
Ball and simple
swing-arm sconces are all the decoration a guest
bedroom needs.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

The Transformative Power of Paint
Here’s how Camille Styles, the owner of Sunset’s 2023 Idea House,
is bringing a sense of wellness and serenity to her beach house renovation.
While Styles
waits to paint
her own house,
these rooms
show how
Benjamin
Moore’s rich
and varied
palette works
with diverse
designs.

The colors of Benjamin Moore provide an endless
palette from which to feed this inspiration, believes Andrea
Magno, the company’s director of color marketing and
development. “Inspiration can come from so many different
sources, and we want to provide the colors and resources
that help both designers and homeowners bring that color
inspiration to their walls,” Magno adds. “From the saturated
blues of the ocean to the variations of blue found in the
sky at different points in the day, to the warm neutrals that
remind us of walking on a sandy beach, Camille will have
beautiful choices that reflect her points of inspiration.”

A SEA OF
OPTIONS

Paint has an incredible ability to enliven a space,
imbuing a sense of ease and character into each
room. For Camille Styles, the aesthetic power of
paint plays a major role in her design process, so
she’s leaning on the integral quality of Benjamin
Moore in the renovation of her 1950s Malibu beach
house. “We spend so much time within the walls of
our home, so it’s an area where quality reigns supreme,”
says Styles, who loves how a simple fresh coat of paint can
bring out the beauty of a room. “It’s something you can’t
always put your finger on but makes a huge difference in
the overall feeling.”
When it comes to Benjamin Moore, the iconic paint
company offers colors that are incredibly durable and stand
up to years of wear and tear, she adds. “This means that my
walls always have the color vibrancy and smoothness that
give it that clean slate feeling.”

A COLOR JOURNEY
Finding paint colors that speak to the soul of a home is a
personal journey. It requires time, inspiration, and a keen
sense of how you want the finished rooms to feel. Styles
looked to the surrounding landscape for her color answers:
Coastal California’s rocky cliffs, deep blue waters, wild
grasses, and sandy beaches provided the palette from which
she drew. “From the beginning of our design process, I’ve
drawn on Malibu’s incredible natural environment as my
inspiration,” explains Styles. “I want every element to feel
as close to its natural state as possible.”

With more
than 3500
colors, the
Benjamin
Moore
offering
is quite
expansive.
With hues
ranging from
bold and
saturated, to muted and soft, to a wide range of whites and
pastels, Magno admits the vast array may be overwhelming
at first glance. But Benjamin Moore groups the colors into
collections, each with distinct characteristics that can
help customers navigate the options and find the colors
that speak to them. “For example, our Affinity collection
is ideal for the customer who wants to mix and match
colors with confidence, while our Off-White Collection
is designed to offer a range of white paint colors all within
one collection, making it easy to appreciate the nuances
and subtleties within the white color family.”
Styles says she aims to keep her Malibu home color
palette in lighter, more neutral tones that both honor the
inspiring landscape and make the house feel expansive.
“When the main house is done, it’ll be 2500 square feet,
and my vision is that it’ll feel much larger,” she says.
“We’re designing the floor plan to be as open as possible—
the vaulted ceilings, open living space, natural light, and
muted palette will create that sense of airiness that I
love.” Washes of lighter shades will create a flow and
cohesiveness throughout the home, allowing a seamless
transition from room to room and an overall sense of
inspired ease.

COLOR OF THE YEAR

2023
Raspberry Blush
2008-30

Searching for the Color of the Year?
You don’t have to look far.
Purchase our Color of the Year at one of these locally owned Benjamin Moore stores.
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California Paint Company

Hassett ACE Hardware

Moyers Paint

South Bay Paints

Centrihouse

House of Color Decorating
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Peterson’s Paint

Tamalpais Paint & Color

Creative Paint

Plaza Paint & Supplies

The Paint Works

East Bay Paint Center

King’s Paint

Professional Paint Center

The Paint & Décor Center

Fisk Paints

Marin Color Service

San Francisco Paint Source

Gray’s Paint Stores

Mark’s Paint Mart

Sonoma Paint Center

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA RETAILERS
Altadena Hardware

Décor Color & Design

Mark’s Paint Store

Santa Ynez Paint

Baller Hardware

De Vaul Paint

Orange Paint Store

Sequoia Paint

Bakersfield Paint

Falcon Paints

Paint Bucket

Shilpark Paint

Big Bear Paint Center

Frontier Paint

Paint Garden

Terra Paints

Catalina Paint

Fullerton Paint

Painters Warehouse

Tru-Tone Paint

Colorama Paint

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SUN

WAT ER

EARTH

AND

A next-gen modern
architectural gem is a
model for gracious,
sustainable living,
taking full advantage
of solar power,
rainwater collection,
geothermal
temperature control,
and the cooling
breezes that tease
the crestline along
Mulholland Drive.
Story by
CH RI STI N E LE N N O N
Photographs by
TH O MAS J. STO RY

Page 21

SKY

IT’S HARD
TO FAT H O M
OPPOSITE: A
sculptural garden
of low-water succulents and rare
cactuses greets
visitors upon entry. ABOVE: Custom-designed, low
modular furniture
was fabricated to
be arranged to accommodate large
and small groups
for entertaining,
without obstructing the stunning
view.

that just 36 houses established Los Angeles as a mecca for
modern architecture. Beginning in 1945 and ending in 1965,
L.A.-based Arts & Architecture magazine ran its Case Study
house project, an experiment in affordable, innovative, easily replicated housing designed in anticipation of a postwar
housing boom. The editors commissioned some of the most
promising young architects to design and build houses to
appeal to potential young homeowners. Before Eames, Neutra, Koenig, or Saarinen were household names for design
buffs, they were visionaries who embraced the Case Study
challenge and built ground-breaking homes that established
the hallmarks of modernism. Nearly 80 years later, their influence still reverberates across the globe. The most notable
architects of today, like New York–based Peter Gluck of
GLUCK+, continue to tip their hats to the movement and
expand on those original principles with more efficient materials and, yes, additional square footage.

When you see the house Gluck designed and built off
Mulholland Drive in the Hollywood Hills for his son, writer and director Will Gluck, his daughter-in-law, writer
Trista Gladden, and his two granddaughters, there’s no
mistaking the Case Study influence: Steel frame, walls of
glass, open floor plan, angular roof, multi-purpose room
that opens to the outside. Even the footprint of the house
looks deceptively small, in keeping with the original Case
Study model. But when you dig deeper and learn that the
most innovative aspects of this construction are buried
underground, it becomes clear that this house is more
about the future than the past.
“My brother’s an architect, too,” says Will. “He works
with my dad. My whole life I’ve been dragged along to
buildings all over the world. As a kid, I hated it. When I got
older, I realized how much I love architecture, and how
much I love my dad’s architecture specifically.”
Living “inside the imagination” of his father was an appealing prospect. Making that vision come to life was a
nearly seven-year labor of love.
“It took two years for us to get this lot, starting back in
2013,” says Will. “It wasn’t for sale. Our real estate agent
Craig Knizek knew of the property and got in touch with
the owner. It took months for us to convince them to sell.
That makes things more complicated.”

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

A lower-level family room, with a
yellow Saarinen
womb chair, is a
private space for
family time. Most
of the home’s
footprint is
underground.

LEFT: At the bottom of the driveway, there’s a
home gym and garage space. The
overhang reveals
how shallow the
planting space is.
RIGHT: The house
is sited on a promontory that
provides sweeping views of the
valley from most
of the rooms, including the primary bedroom, pictured here.

When you see how the house is sited, on a promontory high above Los
Angeles, it’s obvious that it was worth the negotiating hassle. The epic views of
the San Fernando Valley, San Gabriel and Santa Monica Mountains and the
seamless landscape design by Doug Hoerr, principal of the Chicago-based landscape architecture firm Hoerr Schaudt, position the property to join the ranks
of the city’s iconic houses.
“The first time I saw the house, when it was just a frame on its perch overlooking the valley, it almost looked like a bird of prey,” says Hoerr. “It’s sited on this
sliver of plinth on a huge hillside, but you have all of this livability and function.”
Once the land was theirs, Trista and Will ceded nearly all creative control to
the Gluck team. The most notable feature of the structure is a sloped roof that
appears to hover gracefully above the glass house, and, to Hoerr’s point, it isn’t
unlike a bird with spread wings. Peter Gluck describes it as a “glass box with
wood boxes inside of it to contain all the practical matters of living.”
Supported by cantilever beams, the roof is designed to create ample shaded
patio space, and boost comfort and energy efficiency, while also being able to
accommodate enough solar panels to keep two electric cars charged, power the
house, and produce enough energy to sell the excess back into the grid.
Floor-to-ceiling windows and retractable doors are placed strategically to take
advantage of the sweeping vistas and the hilltop breezes for passive cooling in the
summer months. Inside, the main floor is an open-concept living, kitchen, and
dining area. Chicago-based interior designer Anne Kaplan of Insight Environmental Design designed low, modular seating in the first-floor great room that
can be reconfigured to accommodate quiet nights at home or a house full of
guests. The smooth, pale terrazzo floor reflects light and adds to the airiness of
the space. The kitchen is cleverly separated into two sections: one for entertaining and mealtime, and the other for more mundane necessities like pantry

A tulip table for al
fresco meals and a
sectional sofa
from Kettal occupy one of several
shaded outdoor
gathering spaces.
Retractable curtains are programmed into the
“smart home”
controls and filter
the sunlight when
it’s most intense.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

storage. And the lower level, which is carved into the hillside, is where the more private family spaces are: bedrooms,
bathrooms, a reading area, a home theater, and a gym.
“My dad hates ostentatious houses, and he’s always
liked the scale of the Case Study houses,” says Will.
“When you first see the house, you can’t tell immediately
how large it is. More than half of it is underground.”
Beneath a thin layer of earth, and surrounded by thick
concrete walls, the rooms stay sealed, insulated, and at a
comfortable temperature year-round, which also cuts
down on energy usage. You could say that the dirt helps
keep it clean.
“Every drop of rainwater is stored in large cisterns that
supply the drip irrigation,” says Will.
That water supply keeps the small patch of grass green
even in drier months. And for all its achievements, the architectural community has heaped praise on the project.
But the real star of the show is a sculptural cactus garden
that’s the first thing you see when you ascend the driveway. Aside from a battle over “smart house” technology

(Will was pro, Peter was con, but he eventually relented
and Will got his wish), the plantings were the only creative disagreement.
“That was Trista’s idea,” says Will. “I hated the thought
of a cactus garden, and so did my dad. Both of us are from
New York, and I just never understood the appeal.”
Trista, who has a soft-spoken confidence, stuck to her
guns. “It was what I wanted. And Doug really wanted to do
it, so we made it happen,” she says. “We love how it changes throughout the seasons.”
“Now I love it. We sit out there all the time,” Will says.
“And my dad loves it, too.”
The original plan, according to Hoerr, was to plant a
small meadow of wildflowers. Their short-blooming season was a deterrent.
“This space is the first thing you see when you get to the
house,” says Hoerr. “I wanted it to feel sculptural and have
plants of varying heights, tones, and textures. I’m a huge
fan of gravel gardens that have that arid feel. We wanted to
make it explorable, create a composition you could walk

The garden stays
lush, even in
drought conditions, thanks to
a rainwater cistern on the property. The neighboring houses
are obscured by
tree cover.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

A clever two-sided
kitchen serves
two purposes.
The dividing wall
houses the electrical wiring and the
“guts” of the
house, and it
keeps most of the
mess on the other
side, out of sight.
The Roberto Barbieri bar stools are
made by Zanotta.
The swivel chairs
are Lina, available
at DWR.

“The house was
so beautiful, and I
kept saying that I
needed more storage to keep it that
way,” says Trista.
A rack inside the
entrance keeps
reading materials
organized, and a
streamline powder room has a
sleek drawer to
stow essentials.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

through, not just a green mass. Trista wanted herbs for the
kitchen, too, and gravel gardens are great for those.”
The biggest challenge Hoerr faced was dealing with the
shallow soil depth. Because so much of the house is buried
in the hillside, the landscape areas only have about a foot
of soil to plant in. In some areas, it was only 4 inches deep.
No plants with a large root ball would work. Succulents
and cacti were the answer because their root systems require very little depth.
“We have an amazing plantsman, Steve Gierke, who’s
been working out of our L.A. office for some time, and we
work together so well,” says Hoerr. “He really knows the
plant materials. I would ask for plants of certain heights and
textures, and we worked together to make this happen.”
Despite the restrictions of what he calls “onerous California building codes that make every idea you have seem

impossible,” Hoerr is pleased with the sustainable garden
in the sky.
The attention, raves, and awards the house has received—including the American Institute of Architects
L.A. chapter Design Award of Merit in 2021—were a welcome surprise, if not exactly a shock.
“We put a lot of faith in Will’s dad, because he has so
much experience and he loves a challenge. And we’re so
glad we did. We love it here so much,” says Trista.
Despite the fact that they’ve lived in Los Angeles for
two decades, they always imagined they’d return to their
New York roots. “Now I don’t see that we’re ever leaving,” says Trista.
At least one of their parents isn’t thrilled.
“We’re not going back to the city now,” Trista says, “and
my mom is disappointed.”

Floor-to-ceiling
windows wrap
around most of
the structure and
frame the verdant
yet waterwise
landscaping on
the sides not facing the sweeping
city vistas.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

“When you first see the house,
you can’t tell immediately how large it is.
More than half of it is underground.”

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Styles Files:

On Creating an Energy Efficient Home
Small changes, repeated over time, can make a big impact—
and nowhere is this more true than in our homes. Camille Styles,
owner of Sunset3s 2023 Idea House, is looking to the modern and
streamlined efficiency of Schneider Electric to create a home
that is energy smart and environmentally sound. Here3s how.
A Clear View—
from Anywhere
in the World

Efficient Energy: Where It Begins

Styles admits that she always wanted to be more energy
efficient but lacked the knowledge to make it happen. With
Schneider mlectric, she sees her new energy system as both
an education and an opportunity.
It starts with the source: Schneider mlectric is implementing its state-of-the-art energy system products, including the
Wiser mnergy monitor and the X Series connected devices.
This will give Styles and her family an efficient means of
energy and ways to monitor her family’s electricity use in
real-time. They’ll have the ability to see how much energy
day-to-day things, such as using the dishwasher and leaving
on the bathroom lights, actually take. “Understanding where
and when your home uses electricity is the first step to
making smart decisions on how to reduce it,” says Schneider
mlectric’s senior marketing manager April Lisonbee, who is
often surprised by the electricity consumed by ‘always-on’
things in our homes, like a plugged-in printer.

Smarter Usage = Greater Benefits

These days, implementing efficient electricity is not only
smart, it’s requisite. Our homes account for 34 percent of
all carbon emissions because of infrastructure and energy
sources, points out Lisonbee. Traditionally, electricity comes
from the utility and power grid, which is produced by burning
fossil fuels. “If we can reduce electricity usage by being
smarter and more efficient, we can reduce a lot of carbon
emissions,” says Lisonbee, who has seen customers reduce
their energy use by up to 40 percent with Schneider mlectric’s
Wiser mnergy power monitor.
This not only excites Styles but also puts her mind at ease.
“Practically, this will reduce our electricity usage and save
money, but it will also play a role in our part to help lessen the
impacts of climate change,” she says. “Having this awareness
will allow us to make decisions aligned with our values.”

CAMILLE STYLES PHOTO: MICHELLE NASH

For the renovation of her 1950s Malibu bungalow, Styles
saw an opportunity: to create the most energy-efficient
space possible. “Since we’re re-imagining this house almost
from the ground up, I wanted to start right,” says Styles.
Together with architect Douglas Burdge, and her team of
builders, Styles is incorporating Schneider mlectric’s
advanced smart energy infrastructure to create sustainable,
reliable energy in the home. It’s a critical step that Styles
sees as the most responsible way forward. “Homes today are
more than where we sleep, work, relax, workout, and entertain” she adds. “It’s important that we have energy solutions
to manage our energy smarter, all while making life easier.”

With their new
Schneider mlectric
products, Styles
and her family
will have all their
energy info at
their fingertips. A
remote monitoring
and control system
accessed via an
app will allow
Styles to see and
monitor the energy
being used in their
beach home—no
matter if she’s in
Malibu, Austin, or
another country. If
a light turns on unexpectedly, Styles will receive an alert so she
can turn it off remotely. The same goes if someone leaves on
the stove. And when a coastal California storm happens, Styles
can access her Sm mnergy Center smart panel to kick in the
backup solar battery to keep essential devices powered on.
These features add up to smarter habits. “Automation is way
more than convenience,” says Styles. “It enables you to make
more environmentally conscious decisions because the technology does the heavy lifting.”

Home made smart
and sustainable
Transform your home with app-based smart energy
A sustainable home-of-the-future begins with our suite of smart home solutions.
Take control of your home’s electricity with our easy-to-use app where you can
control devices, gain insights, and learn how to reduce your electric bill.
•

Square D™ Energy Center smart panel – significantly simplify adding
solar and storage to any new home in California

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Wiser Energy™ home power monitor – turn any panel into a smart panel

•

X Series switches, dimmers, and outlets – monitor energy use and control
lighting via app and voice assistants

Visit shop.se.com to learn more and shop our entire line of connected
home solutions.

shop.se.com/us
© 2022 Schneider Electric. All Rights Reserved. Schneider Electric, Square D, Wiser Energy, and Life Is
On Schneider Electric are trademarks and the property of Schneider Electric, its subsidiaries, and affiliated
companies. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. 998-22291951_GMA-US

SKY HIGH

ON A ROOFTOP HIGH ABOVE
BERKELEY, A MODEL OF URBAN
FLORACULTURE BLOOMS.

Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S
Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

partment rooftops aren’t usually
considered natural spaces. They often
have air conditioners, vents, maybe a
rooftop patio if you’re lucky. But Joanna Letz’s Bluma Farms stretches
over fifteen modular apartmentbuilding rooftops connected by steel
bridges. Blooms of lisianthus, ranunculus, and dahlias sway in the breeze,
while butterflies gather nectar and
bees buzz. To see so much biophilic
beauty in such a place is unexpected,
to say the least. Not to mention that
the farm’s view of the surrounding
roofs and treetops of Berkeley, California, is extraordinary.
Letz got her start tending plants
and soil with her grandfather, who introduced her to gardening. “He was a
Holocaust survivor and had a hard life
—he was never really a happy person,” she says. “But when he was in
the garden, something lifted for him,
and that really impacted me.” As a result, she says, she now looks at working with plants as an act of healing.
Of course, her first farm wasn’t always up in the air. Letz was farming
flowers in Senol, California, about 30
miles from her home in Berkeley. But
the commute, she says, was brutal.
That’s when a friend told her he was
moving on working a farm on a rooftop not far from where she was living.
“I wanted to walk and bike to work,
and to be somewhere where people
could visit the farm and have a community,” she says.
The rooftop farm checked all the
boxes, so in 2014 she moved in. Letz
didn’t know how well her flowers
would do there—exposure and wind
were wildcards—but after her first
year, she found they did surprisingly
well. She says the developer, RAD Urban, originally built the apartments
with a farm on the roof as part of a
utopian idea that it could feed its residents, who are mostly students. But
without the income to hire a farmer,
that dream withered.
Now Letz is living her own
dream—one she says benefits others.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

“I don’t grow food to eat, but I grow
flowers for the soul,” she says, adding
that another benefit is the habitat she
creates for pollinators in the middle
of a city where there might be none.
She’s also started using one of the
rooftops to teach high school students who come every week, and another is being converted into an event
space.
Running a farm five and six stories
high means you have to do things differently. Seeds are started in the basement. Everything she needs is

brought up by elevator. Crows have to
be kept out by shade cloth. The farm
as a whole is less than a quarter-acre,
so Letz has to maximize every square
foot. “Growing on a roof is a wild way
to farm, but it makes it easier because
I’m managing less land,” she says.
But there are other benefits, too.
When people first see the farm, Letz
says, they’re totally wowed. “Now
that I’ve been here for eight years, I’m
desensitized,” she adds. “But, when I
first saw it I was like ‘Oh, my god.
There’s a farm on this building!’”

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Petal Pusher
WHEN JOANNA LETZ DESIGNS A
BOUQUET, SHE WANTS IT TO
RESEMBLE A MEADOW. HERE ARE
HER TIPS ON HOW TO CREATE A
FLOWER ARRANGEMENT THAT
MIMICS THE NATURAL WORLD.

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Gather or purchase flowers that are
in season. Here, Letz uses lace flower,
snapdragon ‘Chantilly’, anise hyssop,
‘Totally Tangerine’ dahlia, and chocolate cosmos, among others.

2. Place a frog held down with museum
wax on the inside of your vessel.
Don’t use floral foam, Letz says, because it is terrible for the
environment.

3. Begin building the structure for your
arrangement with greenery. This will
provide a base for your bouquet.

4. Start adding your flowers. Consider
using a lazy Susan so you can see all
angles of your arrangement at once.

5. Letz recommends clustering species
together or color blocking so your
arrangement will be easy on the
eyes. (Sprinkling chocolate cosmos
all through a bouquet, for example,
leads to a zany, polka-dot
appearance.)

6. Keep it loose. “I once heard that the
concept is to leave enough space
for a bird to fly through the arrangement. This way, it won’t look too
tight,” she says.

7. Consider tucking herbs into your
bouquet for fragrance. “You can actually take the anise hyssop out of
the arrangement to make tea at the
end of your evening,” says Letz. Then
call it a night.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

“ I don’t grow food to eat,” says urban flower farmer Joanna Letz.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

“But I grow flowers for the soul.”

YOUR

W IN T ER

What to do in your garden now, no
matter where you are in the West.
Story by D EAN NA KIZ I S
Photograph by GARY LEWI S

Verdant, lawn-free gardens like this inspiring patio abound
in The Complete Book of Ground Covers, by Gary Lewis.

FROM THE COMPLETE BOOK OF GROUND COVERS: 4000 PLANTS THAT REDUCE MAINTENANCE,
CONTROL EROSION, AND BEAUTIFY THE LANDSCAPE © COPYRIGHT 2022 BY GARY LEWIS. PUBLISHED
BY TIMBER PRESS, PORTLAND, OR. USED BY PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

GARDEN
CHECKLIST

PREP
Test the viability of vegetable seeds left over
from last year by putting a few on a damp paper towel. Fold the towel over the seeds and
place in a resealable plastic bag, marking the
bag with the name of the vegetable. Store at
room temperature and check in a week to see
if the seeds have germinated. If not, it’s time to
order replacement seed.
If you’re redesigning your garden, indicate
where new trees, shrubs, or garden beds will go
by marking their locations on the ground with
aerosol garden chalk, which comes in many
colors. It’s like spray paint, but temporary, and
available at any garden center.
Order seeds, such as bean, corn, eggplant,
pepper, pumpkin, tomato, and zucchini, for
spring and summer vegetable gardens.

M A I N TA I N
Turn on drip irrigation systems and repair any
leaks. Flush sediment from filters and check
screens for algae; clean with a small brush if
necessary.
Rinse off houseplants in a shower and prune
faded foliage. When you see the season’s first
new growth, fertilize lightly with a plant food
formulated for indoor plants.

PROTECT
Water the garden before forecasted frosts—
plants are less susceptible to damage when
the soil is moist.
If your zone allows, continue to sow seeds of
cool-season vegetables such as broccoli,
chard, and lettuce.

PLANT
Fill sunny windowsills with potted English
primrose, available in shades of blue, brown,
orange, peach, red, white, and yellow. When
they stop flowering, plant them in the garden in
sun or part shade. They’ll bloom again in the
fall.
Start seeds of warm-season vegetables like
cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers,
squash, and tomatoes indoors this month so
they’ll be well established in time for May planting outdoors (June in cold country).

H A RV E S T
Pick the outer leaves of collards, kale, mizuna,
and mustard to add to winter soups. Snip
young, tender leaves from the center of each
plant to eat raw or braise lightly.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

PAVELKO’S DIY HERBAL
BATH SALTS
ADAPTED FROM
MYTINYLAGUNAKITCHEN.COM.

W hat you need
Clear jars or glass test tubes.
Amazon, $14.99
3 cups Epson salt
1–2 Tbsp. baking soda
1–2 Tbsp. organic dried
flowers. Roses, lavender,
and calendula all work
great. (If you’re not drying
your own, Pavelko
recommends sourcing
from mountainroseherbs.
com)
1–2 Tbsp. dried basil
5–10 drops essential oil
(lavender, cardamom,
and/or rosemary)
2–4 Tbsp. olive oil, to keep
the mixture from clumping
Instructions

1/ Place half the herbs and
flowers into a food processor or coffee grinder and
grind them to a smaller
but not powdery
consistency.

2/ Pour all the ingredients
into a glass bowl and mix
well.

3/ Spoon the contents into
“The benefits of soaking in Epsom

your container of choice.

4/ Label the tubes to “add a

salts, flowers, and essential oils are

Kitchen blog, got her start thanks to

endless,” Pavelko says. “Not only do they

her grandmother. “I grew up visiting

nourish your body from head to toe, but

my grandma all the time, and she

they are used to help ease muscle pain

5/ If you don’t want a lot of

introduced me to gardening, bak-

bit of magic to the experience,” Pavelko says.

and tension, soothe cramps, and lower

clean-up after the bath,

ing, cooking—all those grandma things,” she says from her

inflammation.” Meanwhile, she adds, “I

use a tea bag, cheese-

home in Laguna Beach. Now those memories inspire a bevy of

love that you use can use these to gift

cloth with a rubber band,

recipes and DIYs, including these Herbal Bath Salts, which

someone a moment to themselves. Life

or a bath strainer when

make an inexpensive gift for someone else, or for yourself.

happens, so we all need that.”

you drain your tub.

The benefits of ground covers are myriad, says Gary Lewis, author of the timely
and comprehensive The Complete Book of Ground Covers ($50, Workman Publishing). They can conserve soil, reduce evaporation, enhance rainfall infiltration

Lawn
Gone

into the ground, and cover bare soil while softening the edges of hardscape.
But there’s one benefit you may not have thought of—ground covers can replace a lawn that, if you live in the West, is guzzling water we need to drink. “Wellchosen ground covers can make amazing alternatives to thirsty lawns,” says
Lewis. “They also need much less fertilizer and maintenance.” This means no
more mowing, weeding, and pesticides—all while you reduce your carbon footprint. Looks like it’s time to go undercover.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STEPHANIE MARY PAVELKO(2); TIMBER PRESS

Feeling
Salty

Stephanie Pavelko, the content
creator behind the My Tiny Laguna

Fire Pit Fundamentals
Getting a new firepit can be as easy as going online and clicking “add to cart.” But whether
you’re going the built-in route or buying off the rack, it’s helpful to know what landscape
designers think about when they’re installing a new fire feature. That’s why we asked
Washington-based designer Scot Eckley and the California-based pair of Hollis LaPlante and
Jordyn Grohl of Hollis Jordyn Design for their dos and don’ts of firepit selection.

THOMAS J. STORY

Consider the Size

Play It Safe

Find Your Fuel

Shape Matters

“The most important thing about

Another important measure-

You can go with wood-burning,

While firepits can be round,

a fire feature is if someone has

ment? The one that helps ensure

natural gas, or propane, but all

square, rectangular, or broken up

limited space,” says Eckley. “We

safety. “It’s recommended that a

three designers lean toward gas.

into multiple pits, Eckley prefers to

then think about how many peo-

firepit be placed anywhere from

“In many places in the West,

use round firepits, because they

ple you want to sit around it; if

10 to 25 feet away from a home,

there are burning bans and you

allow you to seat the most people

you want eight or ten people sit-

tree, overhanging branches,

can’t have an open flame,” Eckley

around them. “One thing I like

ting around your fire feature, you

wood deck, vehicles, or anything

points out. “We use a lot of natu-

about circular fire features is

can’t buy a 24-inch ring; you

considered to be flammable,”

ral gas, but if you’ve got a pro-

they’re so sculptural,” he says. “It’s

want a 48-inch firepit.” LaPlante

say LaPlante and Grohl.

pane tank, I prefer the designs

a beautiful element even when it’s

and Grohl add that “wood burns

where the propane tank is re-

not being used.” He also points out

hotter than a gas firepit and

mote and you can get a cover for

that a fire feature with a wide lip

would require a minimum dis-

it. Those really boxy propane fea-

can come in handy for kicking up

tance of 30 inches [from seating].

tures with the propane tank in-

feet or placing a drink. Eckley

The minimum distance for a gas-

side are too tall.”

adds: “Who doesn’t like to sit

burning fire feature is 24 inches

around a fire? Plus, everybody

from the edge of the firepit.”

looks a little prettier by firelight.”

Unbox the West
The Sunset Subscription Box delivers the
Best of the West straight to your door!
Every three months, you’ll
get a box full of home,
design, food, and gardening
products curated by Sunset
editors to help you make
the most of every season.
You can choose the box
that fits your style and price
point, then get ready to be
surprised and delighted by
what you find inside!
Our next box is full of
everything you need to
have a lovely spring: think
gardening, cooking, and
outdoor living.

Past boxes have
included goodies
like an acacia
salt cellar, block
printed hand
towels, French
market bags
and more.

FOOD

DRINK

Simply
Soulful
Tanya Holland’s latest cookbook celebrates the rich past
and present of Black foodways in the West, and dishes
up new soul-food recipes
that satisfy in any season.
Story by H U G H GARVE Y

Photographs by AU B RI E PI CK

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

Steamed Mussels With Fennel,
Pancetta, Herbs, and Three
Onions
“Winter’s abundance in California includes black mussels, golden fennel
that sprouts on the side of roads and in
fields, and purple, sweet, and golden
onions. Fennel, pancetta, and three onions come together to create a stunning
sweet and savory broth that enhances
the sweet shellfish. Mussels are one of
those foods that more people should
cook at home: They’re relatively inexpensive, delicious, and very easy to prepare. In true California spirit, serve this
with a toasted chunk of sourdough

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

bread to sop up the broth.”
S E R V ES 4
8 oz. pancetta, diced
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 leek, white parts thinly sliced
(about 1 cup)
½ small bulb fennel, thinly sliced (about 1
cup), plus some reserved fronds for
garnishing
½ cup white wine
1½ cups chicken broth
2 lbs. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon
Crusty bread, such as sourdough

1. Line a plate with paper towels. Add the
pancetta to a large saucepan or
Dutch oven over medium-high heat
and cook until it turns crispy and
brown, 5–7 minutes.

2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the
pancetta to the paper towels to drain,
but leave the fat in the pan.

3. To the fat, add the onion, shallot, leek,
and fennel, and sauté until tender, 6–8
minutes.

4. Carefully add the white wine and cook,
scraping the bottom of the pan with a
wooden spoon until the wine is almost
completely reduced, about 3 minutes.

5. Add the broth, mussels, chives, thyme,
and tarragon. Toss to coat and cover.
Steam just until the mussels open,
shaking the pan occasionally, about 4
minutes.

6. Sprinkle with the reserved pancetta
and fennel fronds. Serve immediately
with crusty bread.

REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM TANYA HOLLAND’S CALIFORNIA SOUL: RECIPES FROM A CULINARY
JOURNEY WEST BY TANYA HOLLAND, PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM
HOUSE. TEXT COPYRIGHT © 2022 TANYA HOLLAND. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT © 2022 AUBRIE PICK.

imply put, chef Tanya Holland is the
queen of West Coast soul food. The
accolades and honorifics are many:
Michelin Bib Gourmands, frequent
topper of top restaurant lists, fierce
Top Chef competitor, host of the
Food Network series Melting Pot. Honorifics aside, Holland has been a consistent deliverer of deliciousness at all
of her Bay Area restaurants, from the
multiple iterations of Brown Sugar
Kitchen in Oakland and San Francisco to Town Fare at the Oakland Museum. While she was busy evolving
this mini restaurant empire, she was
also honing her skills as an educator
and entertainer. Her first book, New
Soul Kitchen, penned when she was
chef at Berkeley’s now shuttered Le
Theatre, laid out a formula of forward-looking, lighter soul food some
two decades before it became a nationwide trend. She went on to write
yet another book, and hosted the podcast Tanya’s Table, on which she interviewed the celebrities who frequented her spots.
Like many casualties of the pandemic and the economy, the Brown
Sugar restaurants are sadly closed,
but like a gift, a new book that builds

upon her influential oeuvre has arrived—and it’s a beauty. Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a
Culinary Journey West is a synthesis of
all the thoughtful cooking, personal
and cultural backstory, and heartfelt
hospitality Holland is known for. We
learn not only about Holland’s move
to Oakland, where she found a city
and culture more welcoming to an
ambitious Black female chef than anywhere she’d been back east, but also
about the broader context of Black
foodways that preceded her.
Among California-ready versions of
soul food, such as black-eyed pea dip
spiked with smoked paprika and fresh
thyme, or po’boys made with fried artichokes, you’ll find profiles of Black
farmers, winemakers, and food businesses, along with “historical detours” that chronicle Black culinary
history in the West. Taken together
these make the volume a historical record as much as a cookbook. While I’d
long been an admirer of Holland’s career arc, it wasn’t until a chilly winter
night in Oakland a few years ago that
I had the honor of eating at Brown
Sugar Kitchen and getting a taste of
Holland’s hospitality. Sure enough she
was there. I asked her what a hungry
and cold diner should order, and without hesitation she told me to get the
oxtails and collard greens and a glass
of hearty red wine, and, of course, she
was right. In this excerpt from the
book we’re happy to share with you a
few wintry dishes that deliver all that
comfort firsthand.

Pimento Cheese Popovers
“If you’ve ever traveled down South, I
hope you’ve enjoyed some piquant pimento cheese. Here, a mixture of
sharp Cheddar cheese, cream cheese,
onion, and pickled jalapeños add richness to a simple popover. The pimento
cheese can be served with crackers,
toasted bread, or crudités.”
M A K ES 1 2 P O P OV E R S
PIMENTO CHEESE:
1¼ cups grated Cheddar cheese
¼ cup cream cheese
1 tsp. hot sauce
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. paprika
1 Tbsp. finely chopped jalapeño
1 Tbsp. finely chopped yellow onion
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 Tbsp. finely chopped dill pickles
POPOVERS:
3 eggs, room temperature
1½ cups whole milk, room temperature
1 tsp. fine sea salt
1½ cups all-purpose flour

1. Place a wire rack in the bottom third
of the oven. Preheat oven to 450ºF.

2. To make the pimento cheese: In a
large bowl, mix together the Cheddar cheese, cream cheese, hot
sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper, paprika, jalapeño, onion, garlic, and dill pickles until thoroughly combined. This mixture can
be made up to 1 day in advance, but
it should be at room temperature
when making the popovers.

3. To make the popovers: Place a 12well muffin tin in the oven. In a bowl,
whisk the eggs until well combined
and lightly frothy. Add milk and salt,
whisk until the mixture is very well
combined and there is a layer of

froth on the top, about 30 seconds of

5. Remove the popovers from the

vigorous whisking. Add the flour and

a heaping teaspoon of the pimento

whisk just until combined; it’s okay if

cheese, and gently press the cheese

oven and transfer them from the

some lumps remain. Let the mixture

down into the batter. Bake for

muffin tin to the wire rack. Make a

sit for 2–3 minutes, then whisk one

15 minutes, then lower the heat to

small hole in the bottom of each

more time.

350ºF and bake an additional

popover to allow steam to escape.

15 minutes, until the popovers are a

Drop an additional teaspoon of

and spray with nonstick cooking

deep golden brown and well puffed.

pimento cheese into the top hole

spray. Fill each muffin well three-

Do not open the oven during this

of each popover. These are best

quarters full of batter. Top each with

baking time.

served immediately.

4. Remove the muffin tin from the oven

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Vegan Winter Greens Stew With Herb Dumplings
“This vegan play on chicken and dumplings is perfect for a wintry meal. The body
of the stew is hearty, with bold round flavors and a slight kick from the mustard
and lemon. The aromatic, airy herb dumplings are ideal for soaking up the delicious broth. It’s like a comforting bowl of braised greens with extra veggies and
dumplings to make it a meal.”
S E R V ES 6
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
6 scallions, white parts chopped and
green parts sliced, kept separately

greens and all the vegetables are
tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the dumpling

3 cloves garlic, minced

batter: In a bowl, whisk together the

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

flour, nutritional yeast, baking pow-

½ tsp. dried thyme

der, salt, thyme, oregano, parsley,

2 bunches mustard greens, thick

black pepper, and lemon zest. Stir in

stems removed, torn into bite-size
pieces (about 10 cups)
1 large yellow onion, cut into
½-inch dice
4 carrots, peeled and cut on the
diagonal into 1½-inch pieces
4 celery stalks, cut on the diagonal into
1½-inch pieces

the oat milk and mix just enough to
form a thick dough. Let sit 15 minutes.

3. When the veggies are tender, stir in
the mustard and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the
heat to a bare simmer.

4. Form the dumpling dough into small
balls, about 1 Tbsp. of dough for each

4 cups vegetable broth

ball. Gently place the balls on top of

1 Tbsp. molasses

the vegetables. Cover and cook until

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

the dumplings have puffed up and

Juice of 1 lemon

are cooked through, 10–15 minutes.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Garnish with the sliced green part of

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

the scallions and serve.

HERB DUMPLINGS:
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Zest of 1 lemon
½ cup oat milk

1. In a large Dutch oven, heat the olive
chopped white part of the scallions,
garlic, cayenne pepper, and dried
thyme and cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add half the mustard
greens and stir to coat with oil; cook
just until they start to wilt. Add the remaining greens, stir, and cover for 1
minute to wilt. Add the onion, carrots,
celery, broth, and molasses and stir
to combine. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let simmer until the

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

For more great recipes, pick
up a copy of Tanya Holland’s
California Soul: Recipes from
a Culinary Journey West ($35,
Ten Speed Press) at your local
independent bookseller.

oil over medium-high heat. Add the

Perfect Pairings
The Sunset Wine Club features the
best bottles in the West, perfectly
paired with these recipes and delivered straight to your door. Join at
sunset.com/wineclub

2021 Vinum
Cellars
Chardonnay
Monterey
Pair with: Steamed
mussels
Chardonnay’s
splash of citrus
brings forth the
sweet minerality of
the seafood, while
the pancetta and
herbs resonate
with the toasty and
fresh wine.

2019 Belse
Red Blend
California
Pair with: Vegan
winter greens stew
This dish combines
sweet, savory,
spicy, and bitter,
and Zinfandel has
all that with ripe
sweet black fruit,
cardamom, clove,
turned earth, and
espresso flavors,
all brought forth in
a silky body.

2019 La
Pitchoune
Chenin Blanc
Merritt
Island
Clarksburg
Pair with: Pimento
cheese popovers
Decadent
popovers want a
crisp and lean
white wine. This
Chenin Blanc has
ripping acidity to
cleanse the palate
and cut through all
the richness, while
also bringing out
the fresh floral
notes of the
jalapeño.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

aintly

THE HOTTEST
RESTAURANT
OPENING IN WINE
COUNTRY JUST
HAPPENS TO BE
VEGAN. WELCOME
TO LITTLE SAINT,
WHERE THE DISHES
ARE MEATLESS,
LOCAVORE, AND
PICTURE-PERFECT.

Sonom
WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Not

long ago in Sonoma County, plant-based, meatless, and vegan
food was relegated to the hippier corners of the county. It was
always there, but rarely celebrated in a place like Healdsburg, the
picturesque town where restaurants typically serve what people
think of as wine-country food, which is to say on the carnivorous
side, with the requisite charcuterie boards and meaty entrées,
presumably the better to stand up to an inky Cabernet or rich
Russian River Pinot. But with the arrival of Little Saint. those
days are solidly in the rearview mirror.
Little Saint is a not very little but indeed very saintly restaurant where sustainable agriculture and beautiful, better-for-you food coalesce in lovely ways.
Housed in a sprawling 10,000-square-foot multi-use building, complete with a
performance space, wine shop, and fancy grocery store, the restaurant also features soaring ceilings and an all-day menu that make for an inviting, come-asyou-are experience. This is the latest project from the people behind the worldrenowned, three-Michelin-star wine-country destination restaurant Single
Thread, with its multi-course tasting menu, Chef’s Table–level culinary inventiveness, and formal (for wine country) hospitality. Little Saint is more casual in
format, but no less calculated in execution. Much of the produce comes from the
same farm that provides vegetables and flowers to Single Thread. With Little
Saint, we’ve moved along from the hippie associations and are now solidly in the
era of haute oats for all.
Jokes aside, making excellent vegetables insanely delicious takes more skill than
making decent meat taste good. Salty-fatty umami and seared animal protein is
pretty much all it takes to make most omnivores happy. At Little Saint they deliver
all the satisfaction we’ve come to expect from a top restaurant in vivid dishes that
crackle with freshness, texture, and terroir. Here we share recipes that showcase
the artistry of chef de cuisine Bryan Oliver and his team, who coax layers of flavor
from well-sourced vegetables and herbs, spiced aggressively, enriched with nuts
and oils, to yet again illustrate how meatless can be more.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

This page: The
spacious and airy
dining room at
Little Saint. Opposite page (clockwise from top
left): The patio at
Little Saint; chef
de cuisine Bryan
Oliver; the vivid
Beet Bloody Mary.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Stuffed Collard Greens
with Beet Merguez and
Sunflower Seed Dukkah

“We don’t often strive to create analogs for meat, but
in some cases where the vegetables are allowed to
shine and the flavors are coherent and delicious, we’re
happy to bend our own rules,” says Bryan Oliver. “This
time of the year, Little Saint Farm is abundant with pristine collard greens, which provide the perfect medium
to wrap around a beet-forward version of classic spicy
merguez sausage. Topped with another Little Saint
pantry staple item, sunflower seed dukkah—an Egyptian spice blend of nuts and seeds—this dish is loaded
with a variety of textures and flavors that are sure to
satiate any carnivore’s cravings.”
S E R V ES 4 – 6

Yellow Beet Merguez

For the Stuffed Collard Greens:

2 Tbsp. rice bran or grapeseed oil

2. Preheat an oven to 375 °F. Bring a

1 medium yellow onion, julienned

large pot of water to a boil. Fill a

2 garlic cloves, crushed

large bowl with ice water. Season the

2½ cups cooked brown rice

boiling water generously with salt.

2 cups cooked, diced yellow beets

Blanch the collard green leaves in

2 cups cooked white quinoa

small batches for 2–3 minutes, plac-

¼ cup rice flour

ing directly into the ice bath after-

¼ cup potato starch

ward. Remove the greens from the

3 Tbsp. smoked paprika

ice bath when cool and trim the

2 Tbsp. dry harissa spice

stems down to where the leaves be-

Salt to taste

gin, removing any thick ribs that may

Stuffed Collard Greens
24 collard green leaves

impact the rolling process.

3. Divide the merguez filling into 24

2 Tbsp. olive oil

balls and gently roll each into an ob-

1 medium yellow onion, diced

long shape. Place one oblong mer-

2 garlic cloves, grated

guez ball on the center of each col-

16 oz. canned crushed tomatoes

lard green leaf. Fold the edges of the

1 Tbsp. chopped rosemary

leaves towards the center and roll

Sunflower Seed Dukkah

upward from the bottom—they

½ cup sunflower seeds, toasted

should look like dolmas, or stuffed

2 Tbsp. golden sesame seeds, toasted

grape leaves. Place the rolled collard

1 tsp. flaky salt

greens, seam side down, in an even

1 tsp. coriander seed, toasted and

layer in a large baking dish or Dutch

ground
1 tsp. cumin, toasted and ground

oven.

4. In a medium saucepan, heat oil over

Garnish

medium heat. Sauté onions and

12 mustard blossom clusters

garlic until translucent. Add crushed

Extra-virgin olive oil

tomatoes and chopped rosemary,
cooking for 10–15 minutes to make a

For the Beet Merguez Filling:

simple tomato sauce.

1. In a medium skillet, heat rice bran oil

5. Top the stuffed collard greens with a

over medium heat, then sauté on-

drizzle of olive oil and the tomato

ions and garlic until lightly caramel-

sauce. Bake the greens, covered, in

ized and translucent, 5–7 minutes. In

the oven for roughly 30 minutes or

a food processor, combine the

until the starches in the merguez

cooked onions and garlic with half

have cooked through.

the brown rice and purée until it

For the Sunflower Seed Dukkah:

forms a tacky paste. Set the paste

6. Lightly pulse the toasted sunflower

aside. Add the cooked beets to the

seeds in a food processor to make a

food processor, and pulse until they

very coarse blend of broken seeds

take on a coarsely ground texture,

and finer particles. In a mixing bowl,

ensuring that the mix doesn’t be-

stir the pulsed seeds with the re-

come too fine. In a large mixing bowl,

maining ingredients. Store in an air-

combine the pulsed beets with the

tight container at room temperature.

remaining rice, rice paste, quinoa,

To Assemble:

rice flour, potato starch, paprika, and

7. Top the baked, stuffed collard

harissa spice. Mix until well com-

greens with the sunflower seed duk-

bined and season with salt to taste.

kah and a light drizzle of extra-virgin

Reserve in the refrigerator until

olive oil. Garnish the dish with mus-

needed.

tard blossoms and serve as is or
alongside a simply dressed green
salad.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Split Pea Porridge with
Almonds, Sugar Snap
Peas, and Lemon Basil

“At Little Saint, one of our main courses
typically tends to fill the role of a
creamy, hearty dish along the lines of
polenta, risotto, or in this case, a riff on
split pea dal,” says chef de cuisine
Bryan Oliver. “Here, green split peas are
cooked down with onions, garlic, ginger,
fragrant lime leaves, and almond milk,
transforming these humble ingredients
into a richly satisfying porridge which
we top with blistered snap peas, pea
tendrils, and the farm’s first shoots of
lemon basil to evoke the essence of
spring’s bounty.”
S E R V ES 4 – 6
Split Pea Dal
1½ cups green split peas
¼ cup rice bran oil
1 medium yellow onion, julienned
3 cloves garlic, grated
1-inch piece of ginger, minced
1 Tbsp. coriander seed, toasted and
ground
2 makrut lime leaves (can substitute 1
Tbsp. lime zest)

the split peas in the strainer to drain

For the Snap Peas:

thoroughly. Meanwhile, heat the oil in

2. Heat the rice bran oil in a large sauté

2 cups almond milk

a large saucepan or Dutch oven

pan over medium heat. Add the gar-

4 cups vegetable broth

over medium heat. Add the onions,

lic, shallot, and ginger and cook, stir-

8 oz. pea tendrils

garlic, ginger, and cook 5–8 minutes,

ring, for 1 minute to color lightly. Add

Snap Peas

or until translucent. Add coriander,

the snap peas and sauté 3–5 min-

2 Tbsp. rice bran oil

lime leaves (or zest), split peas, al-

utes, stirring occasionally, until just

2 cloves garlic, grated

mond milk, and broth, and bring the

cooked, being careful not to burn the

1 medium shallot, sliced thin

mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low

garlic. Deglaze the pan with 1 Tbsp.

1-inch piece of ginger, minced

and cook 35–45 minutes, stirring oc-

water to steam the snap peas briefly

1 lb. sugar snap peas, stems and

casionally with a wooden spoon to

before serving.

ensure the mixture doesn’t stick. The

To Assemble:

Garnish

porridge should take on a creamy

3. Spoon the split pea porridge into a

¼ cup toasted salted almonds

texture as the almond milk reduces

wide-bottomed bowl or serving

12 medium basil or lemon basil leaves

and the starches in the split peas

platter and evenly distribute the

2 limes, each cut into 6 wedges

break down. As the split peas are fin-

sautéed snap peas over the top.

Pea blossoms (optional)

ishing cooking, add in the pea ten-

Garnish with toasted almonds, lem-

drils to wilt for 2–3 minutes. Finish the

on basil, and pea flowers. Limes can

For the Split Pea Porridge:

porridge by seasoning to taste with

be served in a separate dish on the

1. Using a fine mesh strainer, rinse the

salt and adding a small quantity of

side. This dish can be eaten as is, but

split peas under cold water to re-

water or broth to achieve your de-

is even better accompanied by fresh

move any dirt or impurities. Leave

sired consistency.

flatbread or steamed basmati rice.

strings removed

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Red Lentil
Hummus
with Harissa
and Toasted
Almonds

“Hummus is a staple on the menu at Little

Red Lentil Hummus

Saint, where a variety of dips and spreads are

1 cup split red lentils

intended to be paired with raw vegetables,

¼ cup tahini

pickles, and our wood-oven-baked flatbread.

2 Tbsp. coriander seed, toasted and

With this version of our red lentil hummus, we

ground

make harissa paste utilizing some of our

1 Tbsp. cumin, toasted and ground

farm’s peppers that we have preserved from

2 garlic cloves, crushed

the summer growing season, allowing us to

Juice of 1 lemon

capture and highlight some of the flavors of

1¼ cup ice water

summer in spring.”

1 Tbsp. olive oil

M A K ES A B O U T 4 C U P S

2 tsp. salt
Harissa-Almond Oil
½ cup almonds, toasted and coarsely
chopped
1 Tbsp. harissa paste
½ cup olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. golden sesame seeds, toasted
For the Hummus:

1. In a strainer, rinse the lentils under
cold water to remove any dirt or impurities. Put lentils in a medium
saucepan and cover with roughly 4
cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and cook for 20
minutes or until the lentils are soft
and begin to fall apart. Strain the
lentils in a fine mesh sieve and allow
to cool for 15 minutes.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and mix in the
strained lentils, making sure to evenly distribute everything. Put the mixture in a high-powered blender or
food processor and pureé until
smooth, scraping down the sides
when necessary. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
For the Harissa-Almond Oil

3. Combine all ingredients in a small
bowl until evenly incorporated.
To Assemble:

4. Scoop the hummus into a wide bowl.
Use the back of a spoon to create a
circular well, then fill the well with the
harissa-almond oil. Serve with pita
and raw vegetables as an appetizer
or as a component to veggie wraps
or falafel.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Beet Salad with Mandarin
Achar, Pistachios, and Mint

“The pairing of beets with pistachios and citrus is a classic blend of flavors in the
California cuisine repertoire, and we take a twist on this combination with the
addition of Indian-style pickled mandarins that are bursting with salinity, spice,
and heat. Roasted baby beets are tender, sweet, and earthy, allowing the bright
flavors of spring mint from the farm to round out the dish. We make our own pickled mandarin for this dish using California mandarins, but store-bought pickled
lime can be used as a substitute for similar results.”
S E R V ES 4 – 6
Roasted Beets

For the Roasted Beets:

blanched and drained twice, cov-

2 lbs. Chioggia beets

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Trim tops of

er with 1 cup water and the toast-

1 lb. golden beets

the beets and rinse under cold

ed coriander, and bring to a boil

½ cup red wine vinegar

water to remove any residual dirt,

again. Pour into a high-powered

3 Tbsp. olive oil

scrubbing if necessary. In a small

blender or food processor. Purée

3 Tbsp. salt

bowl, whisk together the vinegar,

the pistachios and their water into

3 bay leaves

water, olive oil, and salt. In two

a smooth butter, adding the rice

6 sprigs lemon thyme

separate pans or baking dishes,

bran oil slowly to emulsify into a

Pistachio Pudding

lay the beets in an even layer with

pudding-like consistency. Season

½ cup pistachios

the bay leaves and thyme. Pour

1 Tbsp. coriander seed, toasted

vinegar mixture evenly over beets,

To Assemble:

3 Tbsp. rice bran oil

cover pans tightly with foil, and

3. In a mixing bowl, toss the cut beets

Salt to taste

bake 60 minutes or until a small

with the chopped pickled limes,

Garnish

knife can pass through the beets

golden balsamic vinegar, salt, and

2 Tbsp. pickled lime

with no resistance. Remove from

olive oil. Let sit 15–20 minutes to in-

3 Tbsp. golden balsamic vinegar

the oven and let cool. Peel the

fuse flavors. On a large serving

1 tsp. salt

beets and cut them into 2-inch

platter, spread a circle of pistachio

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

wedges.

pudding and spoon the marinated

with salt.

3 mandarins, peeled and segmented

For the Pistachio Pudding:

beets over the top. Scatter the

¼ cup pistachios, toasted and salted

2. In a small to medium saucepan,

mandarin segments and toasted

½ cup mint leaves

cover the pistachios in cold water

pistachios over the beets. Garnish

1 cup mizuna leaves

and bring to a boil. Drain the pista-

the salad with mint leaves, mizuna,

16 viola flowers, optional

chios then repeat the process.

viola flowers, and lime zest.

Zest of 1 lime

Once the pistachios have been

Perfect Pairings
The Sunset Wine Club features the best bottles in the
West, perfectly paired with
these recipes and delivered
straight to your door. Join at
sunset.com/wineclub

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

2017 St Finley
Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon
California
Pair with: Stuffed collards
This wine is layered with
black currant and dried
herbs that perfectly meld
with the flavors of the
greens.

2021 Tortoise
Creek Pinot Noir
California

2018 Top Source
Red Wine Columbia
Valley

Pair with: Roasted beets
Gorgeous flavors of bloodorange peel and turned
earth in the wine mirror the
flavors of the dishes. The
lively acidity matches the
refreshing lemon basil.

Pair with: Split pea porridge
This Syrah-based wine
adds a punch of cracked
pepper to the sweet and
savory dish. The garlicky
split peas are a great
counterpoint to the wine’s
ripe red fruit.

Valentine
from the

Desert
THE PLAYFUL AND INNOVATIVE AND
DOWNRIGHT DELICIOUS FOOD AND DRINK
MAKE VALENTINE ONE OF THE BEST
MODERN SOUTHWESTERN RESTAURANTS
TO COME ALONG IN YEARS.
PAG E

GUTTER CREDIT

Photographs by TH O MAS J. STO RY

GUTTER CREDIT

T
he Hatch margarita at Valentine in
Phoenix is a metaphor for the new
restaurant in a boot-shaped glass. St.
George green chile vodka simultaneously spices up and tempers joven
mezcal, a house-made lemonade contains roasted Hatch chile juice, while
cumin and sugar and bell pepper
powder spike the salted rim. It’s playful, smart, considered, and a little
fussy, but the kitschy boot and the
fact that it all goes down waaaay easy
make it just plain fun.
Like that seriously fun but still serious margarita, Valentine is just
about the most ambitious, unpredictable, but wholly zeitgeisty restaurant
to hit Phoenix in, well, forever. Owners Blaise Faber and Chadwick Price
almost opened it as a bar, but thankfully it’s become so much more: By
day it’s a coffee shop with mid-century modern diner vibes and baristas
slinging fancy espressos and dishing
up exquisite pastries. It’s also a restaurant, serving food by chef Donald
Hawk that could easily grace the
plates of a restaurant where you’d
never dare break out your laptop for a
little “working from coffee shop” session, but Valentine somehow makes
both feel okay. Instead of the kind of
upgraded diner food they could’ve
done, we’re talking house-made taglierini with Asiago, crispy corn, chile
de árbol, and white Sonoran wheat
pretzel with Arizona honeycomb. Plus
it’s a cocktail bar, where you can get
said Hatch margarita in a boot-shaped
glass, but also a cactus martini made
with a house-made vermouth infused
with dehydrated cactus paddles and
squash and palo santo (yes, the rare
wood that’s become the aromatic signifier of hipster Southwest). Here are
two recipes that just begin to help define the definition-defying Valentine.

Elote Spaghetti
Saucing an Italian dish with the flavors of
Mexican street corn is exactly the sort of
madcap riff Valentine specializes in. They
make their pasta in-house with ‘00’ white Sonoran wheat and local egg yolk, but you can
make this dish with store-bought spaghetti.
And while they source their goat cotíja from
Crow’s Dairy, normal cotíja works too.
S E RV ES 4

5 ears corn, shucked, husks reserved

1. Prep the corn: On a

Salt to taste

gas or charcoal grill,

1 lb. package of spaghetti

grill corn over high

2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tsp. chile de árbol flakes
¼ cup dry white wine
½ tsp. ground peppercorn mixture
(black, pink, Sichuan)
3 Tbsp. butter
½ cup corn stock
¼ cup grated Asiago cheese
¼ cup cotíja cheese
Lime juice as needed
¼ cup crushed corn nuts, crushed

heat until dark brown

SUNSET
W I N E C LU B
PA I R I N G

on all sides. Cut ker-

2021 VINUM
CELLARS
CHARDONNAY
MONTEREY

cutting into the husk.

There are few
pairings as
harmonious as
grilled corn and
Chardonnay,
as both have a
natural
sweetness,
wihle the tangy
goat cheese is
softened by the
richness of the
wine.

nels off corn without
Reserve cobs.

2. Make corn stock:
Place husks and cobs
in a large pot and
cover with water. Bring
to a boil, reduce to a
gentle simmer, and
cook 2 hours. Strain
stock through a chinois or fine mesh
strainer and set aside.

3. Purée the corn: Place
half the kernels in a

Hatch Margarita
If you don’t drink alcohol, the
Hatch chile lemonade is delicious on its own.
M A K ES 1 C O C K TA I L

½ tsp. garlic powder
½ tsp. cumin
½ tsp. white sugar
½ cup kosher salt
blender, along with a pinch of kosher
salt and ¼ cup corn stock. Purée until

thickened, 1–2 minutes.

6. Remove pan from heat and stir in

the texture is that of a thick pudding.

the Asiago, cotíja, and a few

Set purée aside.

drops of lime juice. Then double

4. Cook pasta according to package

check seasoning. The secret is

½ cup bell pepper powder (optional)
1 oz. St George green chile vodka
1 oz. high-quality mezcal (such as Yuu
Baal joven)
5 oz. Hatch chile lemonade (see below)

directions. In a sauté pan over medi-

that the cotíja is the true season-

um heat, add oil, garlic, and chile de

ing. If the cheese is salty, then

In a medium bowl, combine garlic

árbol flakes, and cook until garlic is

you won’t need that much salt

powder, cumin, sugar, salt, and bell

lightly colored, about 2 minutes.

added to the pasta. Taste the

pepper powder and stir to combine.

cheese first and adjust as

Wet rim of rocks glass (or cowboy-

needed.

boot glass!). Add ice, vodka, mezcal,

5. Add wine to pan and cook, stirring
occasionally, until reduced by half.
Remove pan from heat, and add

7. If you want to play chef, twirl pas-

peppercorn mix, corn purée, 1/4 cup

ta onto long tweezers and place

corn stock, and butter. Add pasta to

on a plate to look like a corn cob.

the pan along with a little pasta wa-

Garnish with more cotíja and

ter. Return the pan to the heat, and

crushed corn nuts, and serve!

cook until the sauce has slightly

and lemonade, stir, and serve.

HATCH CHILE
LEMONADE
At Valentine, they
make their own bell
pepper juice, but to
simplify the process we add a
piece to the
blender along with
the other
ingredients.
1 medium
Anaheim chile
1 2 -by-1-inch
piece green bell
pepper, deveined
6 oz. agave syrup
4 oz. lemon juice
2 cups filtered
water
Over a gas burner
or under a broiler
set on high, roast
the chile, turning
occasionally, until
skin is blackened
on all sides.
Remove the skin,
open and remove
seeds and stems.
Put roasted chile,
bell pepper, agave
syrup, lemon juice,
and water to a
blender and process until
thoroughly combined.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

AUTHOR KAT LIEU
SHOWS US HOW TO BAKE
A TRIO OF THE EASY,
DELICIOUS ASIAN
DESSERTS THAT HAVE
EARNED HER A
DEDICATED FOLLOWING
ONLINE.

E AS Y
DOES IT
PICTURE THIS: You’re in a hurry to get to a
spring gathering, maybe a backyard barbecue or
wine night with friends, when you realize you’re
going to arrive empty-handed. You forgot to
make dessert.
There’s a simple and delicious solution to this
last-minute emergency: colorful microwavable
mochi from popular online baker Kat Lieu—and
it only requires seven ingredients you may already have on hand.
The recipe is just one of various sweet and savory treats in Lieu’s cookbook, Modern Asian
Baking at Home: Essential Sweet and Savory Recipes for Milk Bread, Mochi, Mooncakes, and More.
From velvety chocolates inspired by the nama
(or “fresh”) chocolates from Japanese brand
Royce to berry-matcha cream bars, it’s a
“straight-from-the-heart collection of recipes”
that Lieu encourages readers to “steam, fry, boil,
and bake” their way through.

The desserts are a mix of original creations
and inspired adaptations from members of the
online community that Lieu founded, Subtle
Asian Baking. (You can find it on Facebook or on
Instagram @subtleasian.baking.) “I saw a need
for an online community where beginner and
experienced home bakers could share, search
for, and obsess over Asian baking,” Lieu writes
in the book’s introduction. “I knew I had to build
this community, one that would bridge cultures
and help people collaborate, innovate, learn, and
get instant inspiration.”
Launched in 2020, the group saw more than
100,000 members across the globe join its Facebook page in less than a year, according to Lieu.
“Members have curated and shared thousands
of essential Asian sweet and savory baking recipes, along with countless heartwarming stories,” she adds. To taste what it’s all about, try
your hand at these sweet and simple recipes.

Story by KRI STI N SCHARKE Y

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

FROM PREVIOUS PAGE

Quick Microwave
MOCHI
“Mochi (rice cake) was once consid-

For the Toppings (Optional):

ered a sacred food in Japan,” writes

1 Tbsp. cocoa powder or matcha

Lieu. “Now it is eaten all year round.

1 Tbsp. honey or sweetened
condensed milk

onds. It’ll be sticky.

5. Transfer the mochi to the prepared
baking sheet. Coat lightly with the

sampling many varieties of mochi:
daifuku, warabimochi, sakuramochi—I

stretch the mochi for about 15 sec-

1. Toast cornstarch in a pan over me-

cornstarch and sugar mixture.

6. Roll the mochi into a log. Divide it into

can go into detail about each type,

dium-low heat for a few minutes to

but then I’ll have to write a second

kill any bacteria (this is a safety pre-

8 even pieces. Working one at a time,

book! Feel free to experiment with this

caution as you won’t be cooking this

flatten each piece into a disc. Tuck

recipe. Flatten the mochi dough into

later). Spread evenly over a parch-

the disc onto itself by pinching in the

discs and then fill them with your fa-

ment paper-lined baking sheet.

dough from all sides into the middle.

vorite savory or sweet fillings, like ice

Sprinkle on the confectioners’ sugar.

This creates a round shape. Place

cream. I know you’ll have so mochi fun.

Reserve to coat cooked mochii.

the mochi ball seam-side down on

2. Whisk all the mochi ingredients ex-

the work surface. With your fingers

(Yes, I had to go there.) To change the
color of your mochi, mix in food color-

cept the butter in a microwave-safe

cupping the mochi, roll in a circular

ing gel or colored food powders.”

bowl until combined and not lumpy.

motion to firmly shape the ball. You

Microwave on high power for 1 to 2

can also roll it between your palms.

For Lining the Baking Sheet:

minutes. Mix again. Microwave for

Note the mochi may flatten a bit and

¼ cup corn starch

another minute and mix again. If

not hold its shape well without any

1 Tbsp. confectioners’ sugar

there are any uncooked parts left,

filling, and that’s okay. Perfection is

microwave for an additional minute.

overrated anyway.

7. Place on a serving plate. If desired,

For the Mochi:

The mochi is ready when it is slightly

1 cup glutinous rice flour

translucent, cohesive, and evenly

dust with matcha or cocoa powder.

½ cup confectioners’ sugar, to taste

cooked. Add the butter and mix

For added sweetness, drizzle with

1 Tbsp. cornstarch

thoroughly.

1 cup water (or milk for a creamier
mochi)
1 Tbsp. butter, softened

Kat Lieu with her
grandmother in the
’80s, and today with
her son.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

3. Cover and cool until the mochi is no
longer too hot to touch, about 8
minutes.

honey or condensed milk.

8. Store in an airtight container and eat
within 2 days.
© 2022 QUARTO PUBLISHING GROUP USA INC. TEXT © 2022 KATHLEEN LIEU. PHOTOGRAPHS, THIS PAGE: © 2022 JAKE YOUNG

When I traveled across Japan, I loved

4. Wear food-safe gloves. Knead and

Velvety Nama
C H O C O L AT E S

(made with cocoa butter), chopped

on Royce’s famous nama chocolates,”
writes Lieu. “These confections are the
epitome of perfect velvety chocolate

melt on my tongue. I’m a sucker for
anything comforting and delicious yet
simply made. This recipe is inspired by
Royce’s nama chocolates.”
For the Nama Chocolates

1 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. butter
2 cups bittersweet or dark couverture
(or high-quality) chocolate, chopped
1 Tbsp. liquor of choice or vanilla
extract (optional)
Pinch of salt
Cocoa or matcha powder, for dusting
Gold flakes, for garnishing (optional)

salt. Whisk until creamy and homo-

3 cups ivory-colored white chocolate

turn trips from Japan, I always stock up

chocolate and letting the ganache

or vanilla extract and a pinch of

1 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. butter, room temperature

“Before I leave Narita Airport on my re-

truffles. I love biting into a soft nama

For Matcha Nama Variation

TIP
“Nama means raw
or fresh in Japanese, and nama
chocolates are
easily made with
fresh cream and
chocolate,” Lieu
says. “Have a digital or candy
thermometer for
this recipe.”

geneous. Go to step 4.

3. For more matcha flavor, heat the
heavy cream and butter to 110°F in a

1 tsp. vanilla extract

saucepan, until the butter has melt-

Pinch of salt

ed. Immediately remove from heat

1-2 Tbsp. matcha, plus more

and mix in the white chocolate, va-

for dusting
Edible gold flakes or sea salt flakes,
for garnishing (optional)

nilla extract, and salt until incorporated and creamy. Sift in the matcha and whisk until homogeneous.

4. Pour the chocolate mixture into the
1. Line an 8-by-8-inch baking pan
with parchment paper.

2. There are two ways to make the
nama chocolates. For a more purely chocolate confection, heat the
heavy cream and butter in a

prepared pan. Even and smooth out
the top of the chocolate. Tap the
pan against the counter to get rid of
air bubbles. Cover with plastic wrap
and refrigerate at least 3 hours.

5. Slice the chocolate into 24–36 equal

saucepan to 120°F. (Take care not to

pieces, depending on how big you

overheat the heavy cream or the

want them to be. Dust with either

chocolate will separate.) Remove

the cocoa or the matcha. Garnish

from heat. Add the chocolate to a

with edible gold flakes or sea salt, if

large heatproof bowl and microwave for 15 seconds. Pour the

using.

6. Nama chocolates should be refrig-

cream into the softened chocolate

erated in an airtight container and

to temper it. Add the optional liquor

eaten within 5 days.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Berry Matcha
CREAM BARS
“One bite of these dreamy creamy bars and I’m transported to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden in Tokyo during the springtime when sakura are in full bloom,” writes Lieu. “This berry cream layer atop a
buttery and earthy shortbread combo is, without a doubt, a matcha made in heaven. This recipe is
adapted from one found on SAB by Hali Mo (@halicopteraway on Instagram).”

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center.
2. Grease a 9-by-9-inch baking pan, or line it with parch-

For the Matcha Shortbread
¾ cup butter, softened

ment paper.

¼ cup granulated sugar

3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat

1 tsp. white miso paste
1½ cups all-purpose flour, sifted

the butter, sugar, and miso until well incorporated and

1 Tbsp. matcha

fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl

¼ cup pistachios, finely chopped

as needed. Add the flour and matcha and mix on medium-low speed until a dough forms. Fold the pistachios into
the dough until evenly distributed.

For the Berry Cream

4. Transfer the shortbread dough to the prepared pan. Using

¼ cup water
2¼ tsp. powdered gelatin (one

and the sides. Use a fork to poke holes across the entire

2 cups full-fat coconut milk
2 Tbsp. condensed milk or honey,

from the oven and let cool 10 minutes. Cover and refriger-

½ tsp. miso
4 Tbsp. raspberry or strawberry jam
1 tsp. lemon zest or lemon juice
1 drop red food coloring gel (optional)
3

surface of the dough.

5. Bake 15 minutes, until lightly browned and puffy. Remove

to taste

the back of a spoon or clean fingers, firmly press the mixture evenly over the bottom of the pan, covering all edges

standard packet)

cup dried cranberries (optional)

ate 30 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, make the berry cream: Combine water and
gelatin in a bowl. Let the gelatin bloom for a few minutes,
then microwave 10 seconds, until melted.

7. In a large bowl, add the coconut milk, condensed milk or
For the Toppings (optional)

honey, miso, jam, lemon zest or juice, and optional food

Matcha or strawberry powder

coloring, and whisk until homogeneous. Stir in the melted

Fresh raspberries or sliced

gelatin and mix until combined. Fold in the optional dried
cranberries. Take the pan out of the refrigerator. Pour the

strawberries

berry cream on top of the shortbread. Tap gently against

Edible gold flakes

the counter and smooth out the top with a spatula.

8. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
9. Cut into 12–16 even pieces. Garnish with the optional toppings. Enjoy!

10. Refrigerate leftovers and consume within a few days.

For more great recipes, pick up a copy of Modern Asian
Baking at Home: Essential Sweet and Savory Recipes for
Milk Bread, Mochi, Mooncakes, and More ($25, Quarry
Books) at your local independent bookseller.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

“One bite of these dreamy
creamy bars and I’m transported
to Shinjuku Gyoen National
Garden in Tokyo during the
springtime.”

Garden. Home. Recipes. Camping.
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Palm
Springs
Forward

ROBB GORDON

Our favorite desert city is
having a moment with
new takes on modernism
in homes and hotels, a
wonderful wellness boom,
and classic restaurants
refining their menus.

Staying cool at the
Hermann Bungalows.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Even the gatehouse at Desert Palisades is beautiful. With a dramatic
cantilevered roof of patinated corten
steel and surrounded by desert boulders, the structure at the entrance to
Palm Springs' newest residential development looks like it was formed
A sprawling modernist
by tectonic forces, glaciers, and
architectural vision takes
time—or built by an alien civilization with excellent taste. Like much
form high above the city.
of Desert Palisades, despite being
Story By H U G H GARVE Y
new, it looks like it’s been there forever. This small structure, which
also serves as a community mailroom, is a signifier of the intention of
the development, placing itself in the short but impressive
timeline of the manmade topography of Palm Springs. Minimalist. Grand but quiet. And very intentionally modernist.
Eighteen years in the making, Desert Palisades is
perched high above the Coachella Valley on the last view
lot in the city. There are grand views of the San Jacinto,
Santa Rosa, and Chocolate mountains. The landscape is
strewn with boulders, which of course have been placed
very precisely. It feels both serene and remote but is only
minutes from downtown. In a city known for modernist
A RC H I T E C T U R E

Bold Moves on
the Mountain

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

enclaves, this is the most architecturally significant
new development in the city. You will find no Spanish
revival homes here, or references to Tudor, or even a
boxy McMansion, thanks to an internal architecture
review board that vets all plans that have already gone
through Palm Springs’ rigorous vetting process.
Developer Ed Freeman always wanted Desert Palisades to be a showcase of modernist desert architecture.
He joinined forces with local Realtor Marc Sanders, and
the two made a wish list of architects they wanted involved in the project. They intentionally put half the
number of approved lots on the site, creating space between homes in a city not exactly known for it. “It has
the topography and remoteness of Joshua Tree but the
convenience of Palm Springs,” says Sanders. “You’re not
allowed to build a wall or plant palm trees, and you must
use native plants. When you clear your pad, you need to
return as many boulders back to the property as possible.” Their anchor project was a stunning house by architect Ray Kappe that set the tone for the projects that
have followed, all of which channel the mid-century
modernist roots of the architecture of Palm Springs but
are also wholly contemporary. Join us on a tour of where
the latest chapter in the evolution of Palm Spring is being written, home by home.

LANCE GERBER

The gatehouse at Desert Palisades

THE LAST KAPPE HOUSE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: STUDIO AR&D (2); O2 ARCHITECTURE; JAMES BUTCHART

1 Designed by Ray Kappe, the visionary architect who
helped found the prestigious Southern California Institute of
Architecture (SCI-Arc) and designed dozens of post and
beam houses throughout Southern California, this multilevel home is his last commission and one of the grandest expressions of his warm modernism.

THE LOST WEXLER
2 Donald Wexler—the architect behind the Dinah Shore
House, Palm Springs International Airport, and the pioneering all-steel Alexander houses—is on the short list of modernist masters who defined the look of Palm Springs. Commissioned before his death in 2015, this is the last Wexler
that will ever be built.

THE HOUSES OF STUDIO AR & D
3 In addition to setting the tone for the development with
the dramatic gatehouse, architecture firm Studio AR&D is
designing nearly a dozen homes in Desert Palisades and
exploring the desert palette of material, site specificity,
landscaping, and the framing of views.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

EPIC ARCHITECTURAL EXPERIENCE
Modernism Week Gives Visitors Unparalleled
Access to Desert Design
This time each year thousands of architecture fans flock to
Palm Springs for Modernism Week, the epic citywide celebration highlighting mid century modern architecture, art,
interior and landscape design, and vintage culture. With
parties, panels, exhibits, double decker bus tours of the
city’s mid century landmarks—from Twin Palms to Racquet
Club Estates, the Movie Colony and beyond—and dozens of
tours of homes typically closed to the public, it is by far the
most complete deep dive into desert modern architecture
year includes a first-time tour of Frank Sinatra’s mountain
getaway Villa Maggio, tours of Albert Frey’s Frey house II,
homes by Donald Wexler, William Krisel, and other pioneering Palm Springs architects, and a keynote address by
starchitect Thom Mayne, the Pritzker Prize-winning founder
of architecture firm Morphosis, plus a look inside the Trina
Turk-owned art moderne
Ship of the Desert, which
appeared on the cover of
Sunset in 1937.
Sunset is a proud sponsor
of Modernism Week 2023,
which runs February 16 26. Tickets are available at
modernismweek.com

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

BOTTOM LEFT: 2023 MODERNISM WEEK POSTER DESIGNED BY SHAG: COURTESY OF THE SHAG
STORE; BOTTOM RIGHT: MERRICK MARRON/COURTESY OF WARNER BROS. PICTURES

and the Southern California indoor-outdoor lifestyle. This

PERFECT PRESERVATION
The Legendary Kaufmann House
Stands Strong
Few houses capture the essence of the
fantasy Southern California leisure lifestyle as viscerally as Slim Aarons' 1970
photograph of Richard Neutra’s iconic
Kaufmann House. Known as Poolside
Gossip, the photograph showed thenhomeowner Nelda Linsk and friends
relaxing in front of a masterpiece of
modernist residential architecture. We
were honored to photograph Linsk
when she visited the home shortly after it was sold to a new owner dedicated to architectural preservation in
2022. The home still stands strong, very
much in the state that it was in when
Neutra designed and built it for Edgar

FROM TOP: ROBERT STEINKEN; SLIM AARONS/GETTY IMAGES

Nelda Linsk poses by the pool at
the Kaufmann
House 52 years
after the iconic
Slim Aarons
photo was taken.

Kaufmann (who also commissioned
Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater). Respectfully restored and updated in
1998 by Marmol Radziner, the home remains the pinnacle of Palm Springs
residential design.

Slim Aarons'
original iconic
1970 photograph
Poolside Gossip.

Modernism Week
events include
Retro Style on Film:
Designing Costume
and Sets for Don't
Worry Darling. The
Oscar-nominated
designers chose the
Kaufmann House as
a featured location
in this 2022 film.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Mr. Lyon's

R ESTAU R A N TS

Chef Gabriel
Woo at Bar Cecil.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

With its close proximity to Los Angeles and constant influx of top-tier talFood trends may
ent, Palm Springs is always tapped
come and go, but
into the culinary zeitgeist. But no
ribeye and ice-cold
matter how many times we visit and
martinis still reign
are impressed with the execution of
on-trend dishes—the perfect Neapolisupreme.
tan-style wood-fired pies at Birba or
Story By KRI STA S I M M O N S
the transcendent Viet fusion at Rooster and the Pig, for instance—for us,
it’s the old-school steakhouse that
we'll return to time and again.
Perhaps it's nostalgia for the Rat Pack era that fuels our
passion for perfectly prepared steaks and excellent martinis. Or maybe it’s the fact that quality "fast casual" dining
has become the norm in most urban areas, and folks are
just looking for an excuse to splash out. But we simply
can’t stay away from the steakhouse, which always delivers
the air of sophistication and high-level service that we so
desperately crave these days. Here are the best spots to get
gussied up for your throwback moment.

FROM TOP: MOLLIE KIMBERLING THOMAS J. STORY

Just Order
the Steak

Melvyn's

MR. LYON’S
1 The owners of desert hot spots Birba
and Cheeky’s really delivered when
they revamped this classic originally
opened in 1945. Walking through the
dimly lit dining room, you’ll find yourself fawning over jumbo shrimp cocktails, bowls of French onion soup bubbling with Gruyère, and their
beautifully presented signature beef
Wellington. The real star of the show,
the Honest Martini, is made as purists
agree it should be. Gin and dry vermouth are stirred and served up, with
a twist. Sorry, Mr. Bond. mrlyonsps.com

BAR CECIL
2 While it may not technically be a
steakhouse in the traditional American
sense of the word, Bar Cecil is the most
significant modern evolution of a classic bistro, with an iteration of steak
frites that’d stand up to your favorite
spot in Paris. Instead of red naugahyde
clichés, you’ll find eye-popping eclectic design, a smart wine list, and art inspired by the restaurant's namesake,
British photographer Cecil Beaton. If
you’re so bold, order the Beaton Martini, a Beluga vodka cocktail served with
a deviled egg topped with Regiis Ova
caviar, house-made potato chips, and
a house-pickled cocktail onion. After
the first sip, you’ll discover that the $50
price tag is very much warranted.
barcecil.com

MELVYN’S
3 Undoubtedly the formula that all
other steakhouses turn to for inspiration, Melvyn’s is a can’t-miss classic for
anyone serious about exploring Palm
Springs history and the cuisine that
comes along with it. A favorite hangout of Sinatra and his gang, Melvyn’s
has been a staple in the desert dining
scene since 1975, and one could rightly
argue it’s because they have truly
mastered the trifecta of a perfectly
seared steak, chilled martini, and
wedge salad. The restaurant, which is
housed inside the historic Inglewood
MARK DURLING

Inn, still delivers an aura of elegance,
and continues to be a spot to be seen
for locals and travelers alike. inglesideinn.com/melvyns

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Mod Nods
Palm Springs’ iconic
desert design evolves
into a new era.
Story By KRI STA S I M M O N S

Not long ago, Palm Springs hotels came in
two flavors: gracious Spanish revival and onthe-nose (if a bit campy) mid-century modern. But today a new era of hotel openings
and restorations honor the innovation of the
mid-twentieth century while pushing into
the future of hospitality. A cadre of architects
and designers are breathing life into a region
that’s defined luxury living, honoring the
bold colors, bright patterns, and natural habitat that made desert design so unique, giving
new vision to the term desert chic.

AZURE SKY

Venetian terrazzo floors, and custom

1 Originally created in 1959 by Cioffi Ar-

furniture, giving the feel of an upscale

chitect and built by Hoffman Steel,

home-away-from-home rather than a

Azure Sky is marked by the quintessen-

hotel. Each room features a private

tial breeze block walls seen across the

backyard and patio, giving guests an

low desert. The original forms of the

intimate connection to the stunning

hotel were thoughtfully restored by

Southern California landscape. The

hospitality group Lightning Bar, whose

sun-shelf pool is the perfect place to

master carpenters crafted floating

recline while watching the sun set over

wooden beds, accent walls, and

the San Jacintos before heading over

wood-and-mirror banding in the lob-

to the hotel’s noteworthy (and very ex-

by. The bouclé swivel chairs and mut-

clusive) alfresco restaurant, So-pa.

ed earth tones give it all a 1970s rec

stevehermann.com

room meets Japanese ryokan vibe
that somehow works. azureskyhotel.

FLEUR NOIRE

eye-popping oversize artworks. In-

3 Experience the superbloom year-

stead of sticking to the classic Span-

round at this modern mix of casitas

ish-style aesthetic, Fleur Noire adds a

and studios whose exteriors have

splash of French flare with a poolside

2 This luxury resort-within-a-resort, lo-

been hand-painted with large-scale

rosé bar and moody floral wallpapers

cated inside the L’Horizon Resort & Spa

floral murals by renowned artist Ouize.

by Ellie Cashman. There are plenty of

built by William F. Cody, was designed

Built in the 1940s as Burket’s Trade

playful amenities on offer, too. Think

with a nod to Richard Neutra and mid-

Winds Hotel, Fleure Noire features a

baby-pink beach cruisers, lifesize

century modernism. Its 24 spacious

contemporary native plant garden

chessboards, and, of course, cornhole,

rooms are adorned with walnut walls,

that provides a striking contrast to the

making it a perfect spot to post up for

com

HERMANN BUNGALOWS

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SHEVA KAFAI; JIM BARTSCH; ELEVATION CREATIVE AGENCY

HOTELS

RESORT REVIVAL
Diverse openings in the desert

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: NOAH WEBB; THE PALOMA

WELLNESS ON THE HORIZON
Palm Springs has long been known as a modern self-care oasis, with more than 25 destination spa resorts featuring the
latest trends in health and wellness. But long before the area
drew Hollywood celebs and in-the-know jetsetters, the Cahuilla Indians revered the hot, mineral-rich waters that
spring up from a robust natural underground aquifer.
The Spa at Séc-he will bring the ancient healing waters of
the Agua Caliente Hot Mineral Spring to the public when it debuts in 2023 alongside the Agua Caliente Cultural Center, a
48,000-square-foot museum that is poised to be the center of
cultural tourism honoring indigenous tribes in California. It’s
a welcome addition to the landscape, and a step in the right direction toward healing in many senses for the region.
LIVING OUT
A 122-unit multi-purpose resort facility for 55 and over LGBTQ+
community members and their allies called Living Out will
open in early 2023. There’ll be a pool, putting green, bocce ball
court, and restaurant by renowned chefs Susan Feniger and
Mary Sue Milliken of Border Grill fame. The restaurant, Alice
B.’s, pays tribute to Alice B. Toklas, life partner of Gertrude
Stein. The complex will also feature Tailwaggers, a pet supply
boutique and doggie daycare, creating the ultimate safe space
to age gracefully, joyfully, and full of pride.

festival season and beyond. fleurn-

date-tree-dotted hotel situated just

oirehotel.com

south of downtown has been thoughtfully restored to include Sol y Sombra,

THE PALOMA

a Spanish restaurant inside the adobe

4 Originally opened in 1920 by two en-

main building, as well as a poolside

terprising women, this delightful prop-

bar where you can indulge in a frosty

erty boasts a just-right blend of the

version of their eponymous cocktail,

Spanish Revival and modernist archi-

the paloma, made with tequila, fresh

tecture that the area has become

grapefruit juice, and agave. thepalo-

known for. The vibrant,

maresort.com

SERENITY AT SENSEI
The world melts away at Sensei Porcupine Creek, the new 230acre wellness retreat founded by Larry Ellison and David Agus,
a world-leading physician and scientist. Their second location
after Sensei Lāna’i, the desert property in Rancho Mirage focuses on integrating mindset, nutrition, fitness, and more. It's
the ulitmate antidote to the hurried outside world and a bucket-list destination for a spa lover.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Social clubs centered on fitness are
combining coworking, cutting-edge health
science, and high design.
Story by KRI STA S I M M O N S

Mother Tongue
restaurant at Heimat in
Los Angeles.

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

an era when nearly
everyone is a fitness
influencer, it’s become increasingly difficult to find a gym that
isn’t completely overwhelmed by tripods and
content creators. Thankfully,
a new form of wellness-focused
social club is taking hold in Los Angeles. These bespoke, design-centric
clubs go far beyond the traditional
definition of a gym.
The onslaught of fitness social
clubs couldn’t come at a more appropriate time, when sober-curiosity and
an obsession with bleeding-edge wellness dominate the zeitgeist. And of
course it’s all happening in L.A., the
nexus of trend-setting when it comes
to training.
While the ancient Greeks were the
first to perfect their physiques in
gymnasiums, it was here in Los Angeles that Joe Gold opened Gold’s Gym
Venice in 1965. Known as the Mecca
of Bodybuilding, Gold’s transformed
a relatively niche subset of health nuts
into a massive global fitness movement that franchised gyms and inspired cult Hollywood films like
Pumping Iron, the first movie to star
then-bodybuilder Arnold
Schwarzenegger.
It’s fitting, then, that the owners of
Gold’s Gym, RSG Group, are continuing to push the fitness world forward
with an innovative social wellness
club concept in Hollywood called
Heimat (heimat.com), whose design
reads as more of a luxury hotel than a
gym. There are 75,000 square feet of
fitness facilities that include a cozy
living room lobby with a fireplace, a
rooftop pool, locker rooms outfitted
with pink Himalayan sea salt saunas,
a full-service spa, a smartly designed
coworking space, and Mother Tongue,
a restaurant by celebrity chef Michael
Mina. Potted plants and live greenery
add pops of life throughout, with the
cardio area having its own live cactus

THIS PAGE: ANGELO CLINTON

Just Don’t
Call It a Gym

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: REMEDY PLACE (2); COURTESY OF HEIMAT

garden and floor-to-ceiling windows.
Translated from German as “the
feeling of home,” Heimat is not only a
great way to connect with LA’s fitness
community. Travelers, too, can opt to
pay for a day pass to experience their
regular live music performances and
facilities, while the public can dine at
Mina’s Mother Tongue, where you’ll
find dishes that are a far cry from
your typical gym rat’s smoothie bar.
Think duck confit bone broth with
carrot and ginger or corn orzo with lion’s mane, the trending adaptogenic
mushroom. There’s also a stunning
rooftop bar that boasts plenty of zeroproof options to sip while watching
the sunset or the sweeping views of
the Hollywood Hills.
The vibe is similarly immaculate at
Remedy Place (remedyplace.com)
on Sunset Boulevard, where the hub
of socializing is the sleek, modern
nonalcoholic bar, where members can
gather over tinctures and tonics after

sound baths and treatments. While
members do get a discount on remedies, the social club is open to travelers, so long as they book a treatment.
On a recent visit, a group of travelers
visiting from London were gathering
for a pre-Burning Man detox, juicing
themselves up with IV drips, customized acupuncture treatments, and
cold plunges to prepare themselves
for a week out on the Playa.
At another design-focused space in
Los Angeles, Artha (artha.la) rubber
floors and harsh fluorescent lighting
have been replaced with float tanks,
cryo rooms, and nano-studios that
are specifically designed to accommodate small classes and elicit an instant
moment of Zen. In addition to offering de rigueur yoga and meditation
classes, Artha has body-sculpting devices like contour light and T-Shock
therapy. There’s nary a sign of a bigbox gym in sight. And we are here for
it.

The free-weight room
at Heimat is anything
but drab.

Serene common areas
(above) and classrooms
at Remedy Place.

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

COURTESY OF GO LA PAZ

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

WILDLANDS

Close encounters with whale sharks in the
UNESCO World Heritage site Jacques Cousteau
called “the world’s aquarium” inspire wonder
– and a continued passion for ocean conservation.
Story by KRI STA S I M M O N S

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

dolphins, and Baja’s most famous underwater resident: the whale shark,
whose annual migration is from October to February.
Whale sharks, or tiburón ballena as
they’re known here, are the largest living non-mammalian vertebrate and
the largest shark species on the planet.
They can reach up to 41.5 feet long and
weigh about 47,000 pounds. Swimming
alongside them is the most heart-racing, awe-inspiring experience I have
ever had, on land or in the sea.
Cruising with these gentle giants as
they move gracefully in the azure waters while they filter feed on the
plankton-rich waters completely
dwarfed my sense of self in the grand
scope of nature, inspiring a further
responsibility to protect these magnificent creatures.

Because whale sharks thrive and
feed in shallow waters in the Bay of La
Paz, visiting them as a snorkeler is
relatively easy. Here they are cherished by visitors and locals alike, but
in other areas of their international
migratory patterns, their shallow
feeding habits has given easy access
to poachers who covet their meat and
fins, landing them on the list of endangered species.
Thankfully, La Paz as a community
has taken measures to be at the forefront of whale shark protection and
conservation. Tour operators have to
be fully certified, and many guides
are educated as marine biologists.
Cousteau wasn’t the only one to take
note of its unique biodiversity; La Paz
is home to four marine research centers and several NGOs working to

COURTESY OF GO LA PAZ

rowing up in the West, I never had
a shortage of opportunities to explore the sea, from rough-water
swimming to bodyboarding to one of
my all-time favorite ocean activities,
snorkeling. I have a real appreciation
for the relative accessibility of grabbing some affordable gear, sticking
my head underwater, and entering another world, no oxygen tanks required. Exhibit A: the Bay of La Paz, in Baja
California Sur.
The biodiversity in this coastal region is so rich and so
spectacular that Jacques Cousteau referred to it as the
“world’s aquarium.” Lesser known and far less touristed
than Cabo San Lucas two hours south, La Paz makes an incredible journey for nature lovers.
La Paz, an hour’s drive from trendy Todos Santos, is the
capital city of Baja California Sur and the gateway to the
Sea of Cortez. Just offshore, the warm waters near Espiritu Santo Island (a UNESCO World Heritage site) teem
with playful sea lions, manta and mobula rays, giant squid,

WILDLANDS

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF GO LA PAZ; KENNY VIESE

protect the Bay’s spectacular ecosystem. The area where the whale sharks
feed is strictly regulated by the Natural Protected Areas National Commission, and only permitted operators are allowed in.
“For the communities in La Paz,
whale sharks not only represent an
important part of the ecosystem,
but their arrival each year also
brings tourism that benefits thousands of families. In order to guarantee the sustainable development
of the region, it is crucial to protect
these giants of the sea and their
habitat,” says Luis Garduno,

co-founder of RED Travel, a company dedicated to responsible ecotourism in Mexico. “Authorities, scientists, and tour operators have
been working largely on achieving
this balance. Of course there is always room for improvement, but I
believe interacting with wildlife in a
restricted and protected manner has
been one of the most important efforts in Mexico.”
Before we embarked on our snorkel, we had an in-depth briefing that
went over the rules: swimmers aren’t
allowed to approach from the front,
and are absolutely not permitted to

touch the whale sharks. There is no
baiting involved, and the encounters
are purely passive.
In season, a maximum of fourteen
tour boats are allowed to look for
whale sharks. The excursions can go
no longer than two and half hours,
with no more than two boats following any one shark. A total of five
guests and one guide can be in the
water at any given time. On our early
morning trip, we were the only folks I
saw out on the water, making for a
truly magical experience and proving
that the planet’s largest creatures are
ones worth protecting.

WHERE TO STAY
Rancho Pescadero:
Located in the trendy
beach town of Todos Santos, less than an hour and a
half outside La Paz, this
newly revamped wellness
retreat is a vacation in and
of itself. Unwind after a day
out on the water in the
30,000-square-foot spa.
ranchopescadero.com

Baja Club Hotel: We’re a bit
obsessed with the
exposed-brick courtyard
that surrounds the pool at
this revamped 20th-century villa. Rustic, minimalist
interiors are accented by
pieces from local craftsmen, and did we mention
the rooftop bar? bajaclubhotel.com

Drift Hotel: Even if you are
staying in San Jose del
Cabo, La Paz is just a quick
two-and-a-half-hour drive
away and well worth a visit.
This stylish boutique hotel
is a local favorite and one
of ours too because of its
proximity to nearby activities, like the weekly art
walk. drifthotels.co/sanjose

Rancho Pescadero

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

Insider
SOUTHWEST
This month:
Santa Fe, NM
The insider:
Lindsey Calla,
photographer

Seasonal diversions
and secret travel tips
from local experts.
Ten
Thousand
Waves

Lindsey Calla is an artist whose ethereal Earth
Auras series of photographs captures the essence of the high desert. Her pieces have been
placed in top collections around the world, including that of an ARTNews Top 200 Collector, and are also exhibited at the iconic Santa
Fe restaurant Geronimo.

hot drinking chocolates

hard not to leave with a

from ancient recipes; the

treasure!

secret Marie Antoinette
recipe is my favorite!

STAY

Legal Tender

Bishop’s Lodge is historic

SHOP

and close to the city, but

Spirit of the Earth has

immersed in the land-

cozy sweaters and beau-

scape. You can really get

tifully curated objects. The

a sense of the magic of

owners have an incredi-

New Mexico. Inn of the

ble eye. Santa Fe has

Five Graces has a fantas-

some of the greatest

tic spa with gorgeous

Catch a forward-thinking

used bookstores in the

mosaic soaking tubs and

experiential exhibit at SITE

country. I recommend

piñon for your fireplace,

Santa Fe. Then soak in hot

stopping by Books of In-

and one of the owners

springs at Ten Thousand

terest and op.cit.. It’s

does all the mosaics.

get your own personal
sauna with your soak. It
feels like you’ve been
transported into an onsen

Bishop's Lodge,
Auberge Resorts
Collection

in the middle of the Santa
Fe mountains. Or make an
appointment at the Georgia O’Keeffe Research
Center to view her personal library of books and
materials up close.

DRINK
Legal Tender is an offthe-beaten path treasure.
It’s an old Western rail saloon and mercantile that
serves delicious craft
cocktails. For a non-alcoholic vibe, Kakawa Chocolate House is a must in
the winter. Sip on some

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Spirit of the Earth

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: PETER BARRERAS; AMBER QUINTANA; SOTE; BISHOP'S LODGE,
AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION; LINDSEY CALLA

Waves to warm up. You

Ranger Choolate Co.

Pacific Standard

an incredible cocktail bar
from Jeffrey Morgenthaler. Next door is Ranger
Chocolate Co., which has
great chocolate and
coffee.”

This month:
Portland, OR

EAT
“You have to visit Han

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: RACHELLE HACMAC; EVA KOSMOS FLORES (2); CARTER HIYAMA;
RANGER CHOCOLATE CO.

Oak for Korean BBQ and

The insider:
Gregory Gourdet,
chef at Kann and
Sousòl

karaoke,” says Gourdet.
Another must-visit for
food lovers is “Fermenter,
a vegan shop that focuses on fermented foods,
including house-made

Han Oak

tempeh and other delicious, fermented vegetables that they incorporate
into sandwiches and sal-

PACIFIC
NORTHWEST
Kann

Portland-based Gregory Gourdet is a Top Chef
finalist, James Beard Award–winning chef, and
founder of the celebrated Haitan fusion restaurant Kann and the Caribbean cocktail bar
Sousòl. He's also the author of Everyone's Table: Global Recipes for Modern Health.

ads, along with an array
of fermented drinks, including kefir and
kombucha.”

SHOP
STAY

“Filson has great out-

Kex has “great access to

door-centric rugged

the eastside of Portland,

wear. They make fantastic

and all of the restaurants

items out of wool materi-

in the area,” including

als and are also very

Gourdet’s Portland

fashionable. Machus is

hotspot, kann. “The hotel

also one of my favorite

also boasts the newly

stores. It’s a go-to for

opened Pacific Standard,

sporty menswear."

WELLNESS 2023 • SUNSET

SOUTHERN
CALIFORNIA

This month:
San Diego, CA
The insider:
Candice Kumai,
cookbook writer

Candice Kumai grew up in San Diego, and is
the author of six best-selling books, including
Kintsugi Wellness and Clean Green Eats. She’s
appeared on Netflix's Selena + Chef and is the
host of the weekly podcast Wabi Sabi.

are some of the best.

“My favorite spot is Bal-

There are some great

boa Park. This is by far

Japanese grocery stores,

one of my favorite places

too,” like Nijiya, Mitsuwa,

in San Diego, besides the

and Marukai.

beach, of course,” and
“the museums and parks

SHOP

are the best medicine for

“Four Moons Spa is a de-

a technology cleanse.”

lightful, blissful retreat for

And “if you can make it

massages, facials, and

out to Encinitas, I recom-

relaxation. Their hip and

mend Moonlight State

stylish gift shop has

Beach” as well.

thoughtful, spiritual gifts
and an outdoor area to

EAT

read a book or catch up

“My mom is Japanese

with a girlfriend for a tea.

from Kyushu Island,

Nearby are surf spots like

known as the mecca of

Beacon’s and D Street,

ramen, and Tajima Ra-

plus plenty of local good

men and Nishiki Ramen

eats."

Kumai sources ingredients
from Japanese grocery
stores for dishes like her
Spicy Miso Ramen.

Four Moons Spa

SUNSET • WELLNESS 2023

Balboa Park

CLOCKWISE FROM KUMAI: JACK JEFFRIES; JEREMY GALLMAN/UNSPLASH; F11PHOTO/GETTY IMAGES;
SHAWN KALLIO; CANDICE KUMAI/KINTSUGI WELLNESS

Moonlight State Beach

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WELLNESS 2023

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WELLNESS 2023

SUNSET

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plants are a lot like us people, they
need the right environment to thrive.
What are some lessons that you’ve
learned from tending to plants and
applied to your own mindfulness
practice?
Something I talk a lot about in my book
is this idea of “mindful neglect,” which
is all about acknowledging and observing your plants without the necessity of taking any action. If chosen in
accordance with your environment,
most plants will not need much human intervention to thrive, and some-

“Watering and tending
to my plants has
become the source of
my meditation practice;
the slowness of plants
is so comforting in a
fast-paced society.”
We know that plants are great for the
environment and, of course, are
beautiful to look at, but would you

Nick Cutsumpas, known as Farmer Nick on
his popular Instagram account,
celebrates gardening in all its forms, from
a simple potted plant to a full-blown
backyard farm.

wellness and self-care? If so, how?

times excess human intervention

Watering and tending to my plants has

(such as overwatering or changing the

become the source of my meditation

environment) can cause more harm

practice; the slowness of plants is so

than good. Sometimes less is more,

comforting in a very fast-paced soci-

and by choosing to observe more than

ety. Growing my own food on my Let-

act, you can make more purposeful

tuceGrow Farmstand is equally fulfill-

and effective plant care decisions.

ing. Knowing I have fresh produce
available at any time inspires me to

We noticed on your site there’s a tool-

cook more for myself at home, which is

kit to create a “greenprint.” Can you

another wonderful act of self-care.

explain what that is, and why it’s so
important?

Interview by KRI STA S I M M O N S

Farmer Nick Cutsumpas is a full-time plant coach, urban gardener, and landscape designer whose mission is to
leave the earth greener than when he found it by giving
people the knowledge and confidence they need to create
their own green spaces. He inspires joy and wellness
through plants on his Instagram account @farmernick and
in his book, Plant Coach: The Beginner’s Guide To Caring for
Plants and the Planet.

What are some marked differences

A greenprint is basically a plant blue-

you’ve noticed in your life since you

print of your indoor or outdoor space.

started surrounding yourself with

It’s something you create after you’ve

greenery?

thoroughly assessed your environ-

I’ve definitely noticed a decrease in

ment and are ready to integrate plants

stress. My life is arguably more stress-

into your home. It’s a great way to vi-

ful since becoming a full-time

sualize plants in your space before

“plantrepreneur,” but when you work

heading to the plant shop, and it will

outside in the dirt with the plants all

prevent you from making poor plant

day, it always keeps me grounded.

purchases that could become a
source of stress in the long term. It’s all

We always come back to the idea that

about the plant prep!

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The Healing Power
of Plants

consider tending to plants a form of