Wine Enthusiast Best of Year 2023

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BEST OF YEAR 2023

$8.99 US & CANADA

HISTORIC Vines.
New ROOTS.
DISCOVER A HISTORIC REGION
WITH A DYNAMIC NEW WINE SCENE.

2023
WINNER
Wine Region of the Year

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THE TOP 100 WINES
BY THE EDITORS OF
WINE ENTHUSIAST
Our reviewers blind-tasted
more than 23,000 wines
this year. These are the
standout bottles that
opened our reviewers’
eyes and stimulated their
imaginations.

Cover Illustration by Alex Balosie

TOP 100 SPIRITS
BY KARA NEWMAN
Compiled from the hundreds
of bottles we’ve reviewed,
this list represents a wide
and exciting range with
prices spanning from $750
(for a stunning limitededition Irish whiskey) to $20
(for a best-buy vodka).

THE TOP 50 BEERS
BY JOHN HOLL
As the United States
approaches 10,000
breweries, this
year’s best-of list
showcases the best in
both innovation and
tradition in brewing and
reminds us to drink off
the beaten path.

Best of Year 2023

90
New York state
of mind

68
White
Bordeaux
emerging

105

Sherry needs a
new look

Starring
roles

Features
68 THE OTHER BORDEAUX
BY ROGER VOSS

Long known for its red wine
reputation, the historic wine
region is gaining notoriety for
its whites.

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

72 THE FUTURE ISN’T
FORTIFIED
BY JASON WILSON

In Jerez, after decades of declining
Sherry popularity, radical change
is coming.

90 NEW YORK SPARKLES:
PAST, PRESENT AND
FUTURE

105 2023 WINE STAR
AWARDS

BY CHRISTINA PICKARD

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE
ENTHUSIAST

Its historic sparkling style may be
the key to New York wine.

Meet the winners of the 24th
annual Wine Star Awards.

Best of Year 2023

27
Green scene

24
Splashdance

32
Tea time

Departments

THE CRUSH
19

The ultimate guide to pairing
nibbles and Champagne

A brief and irreverent history of
the Fossier Biscuit

Biodynamic bubbles showcase
terroir

OUT & ABOUT
12

Ethica Wines Fashion Show and
Cunard’s Festival of Food and
Wine Voyage

SOUNDBITES
16

Talking about how we talk
about wine

BY JACY TOPPS

CHEERS
44

The best of what we tasted for
this issue
BY THE TASTING
DEPARTMENT

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

32
35

Thanks to vivacity and versatility,
Vidal Blanc is becoming a classic
hybrid grape
A taste of Malta for your table—in
tart form
Make a cozy hot toddy that has all
the boozy bells and whistles

Cheersing on the ocean liner
Queen Mary in the ’50s

Pair wine with the gamy and briny
flavors of beef tartare

Crown vs. cap: Does the closure
make a difference in secondary
fermentation in sparkling wine
production?
Founded as a port town, Augusta
AVA holds a special place in
winemaking history

SPIRITED
46

BY KARA NEWMAN

LAST DROP
184

Columns
This year demanded a little
extra sparkle

Buying Guide

B Y JACQUELINE STRUM

139

Reviewed this month

175

California

176

Piedmont

177

Tuscany

180

Spirits

183

Beer

VIEWPOINT
48

When commemorating
a milestone becomes a
transgressive act
BY HENNA BAKSHI

PUBLISHER’S LETTER
10

Producers are pushing agave’s
limits—how far is
too far?

Take a cue from bottled-up
bottles and give yourself a
moment to breathe
BY MARSHALL TILDEN III

VOLUME 36, NUMBER 9

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER
MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone

TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli

EDITORIAL

DESIGN

TASTING

SOCIAL

WRITERS AT LARGE

MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL
Rachel Tepper Paley

ART DIRECTOR
Monica Simon

SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING
Jim Gordon

DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA
Elyse Estrella

SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT
Stacy Briscoe

DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR
Evan de Normandie

SENIOR TASTING COORDINATORS
Craig Chamberlain, Cody Wexler

SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST
Marco Bruno

ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT
Jacy Topps

DIGITAL DESIGNER
Eric DeFreitas

VIDEO

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD
Nils Bernstein

VISUALS PRODUCER
Jesse Reiter

ASST. TASTING COORDINATORS
Augi Anagnostos, Russell Peborde,
Dan Storm

WINE
Michael Alberty, Danielle Callegari,
Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann,
Christina Pickard, Jeff Porter,
Emily Saladino, Reggie Solomon,
Jesica Vargas, Roger Voss,
Aleks Zecevic

SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER
Braxton Parr

SPIRITS
Kara Newman

WEB PRODUCER
Samantha Sette

PHOTO PRODUCER
Tom Arena

VIDEO PRODUCER
Rob Martin

BEER
John Holl

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8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

You’re looking at a work of art. A Languedoc AOP wine
under the microscope, vibrating with the positive,
generous energy of our terroirs. The promise of an intense
and unique tasting experience.

letter fromthe publisher

This year demanded a little extra sparkle.

The

and state of our culture.
in defeat, you need it.” That
something to prove
In the months and now
sentiment perfectly distills one
in
the
wake
of
years that have followed the
of the many likely reasons for
existential
dread—
pandemic’s peak, a dizzying
sparkling wine’s popularity in
that life can and
collection of trends has
today’s climate: We have every
emerged. People are going out
reason to cheers with bubbles.
must be enjoyed.
to dinner earlier and staying
Maybe we’ve learned that life
out later at night. The $25-plus
is too short to drink bad wine…
martini is not uncommon; caviar became the new
or bad tequila. Let’s continue to explore the things
“it” ingredient, but so did cottage cheese. Barbie
that bring us pleasure and bring our communities
was the must-see premiere but not until after
together. So, cheers to 2023! Sign me up to
you watched an angsty three-hour Christopher
pop bottles and shake up margaritas at my
Nolan epic about the inventor of the atomic
New Year’s Eve party. I wish you all a happy and
bomb. TikTokers frivolously frothed their tequila
healthy one with a little extra salt on the rim for
alongside the spritzification of all things—even
good measure.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

JACQUELINE STRUM
EDITOR & PUBLISHER
WE Media

@jackistrum

RIGHT: PAUL ARESU, TOP: GETTY IMAGES

two fastest growing
Miller High Life got spritzed. It’s as if we all had
alcohol beverage
something to prove in the wake of existential
categories in the
dread—that life can and must be enjoyed. No
U.S. this year were
judgments, no rules—just the constant drive to
sparkling wine and tequila. If that doesn’t read
continue to bring delight into our daily lives.
like a drink menu for a good time (and maybe
No doubt, the last year has been a wild ride.
a headache the next day), you may want to
And maybe our behavior has mirrored those
reconsider the company you
ups and downs. As Napoleon
keep. Consumer trends tell us
Bonaparte famously said: “In
a lot about the current mindset
victory, you deserve Champagne;
It’s as if we all had

out&about
SIPS AND SNAPS AROUND THE GLOBE

AN IMMERSIVE
WINE &
FASHION
EXPERIENCE

Models donned looks inspired by Ethica Wines. Left to right:
Sherrill Flaum (Cà dei Frati), Agnieszka Artych (Borgogno), Emily
Kammeyer Sumner (Villa Sparina), Michelle Chen (La Gioiosa).

In September, Ethica Wines
partnered with Wine Enthusiast
to create an immersive wine
and fashion experience in the
heart of SoHo, New York. As
an importer of premium Italian
wines, Ethica Wines presented
a selection of their most
coveted brands, including Villa
Sparina, Borgogno, La Gioiosa
and Cà dei Frati. Lifestyle
influencers and digital creators
gracefully unveiled looks
inspired by each of the four
wine brands. Guests grazed
on inviting hors d'oeuvres as
beautiful videos of the Italian
wines were displayed on
the walls of Lume Studios,
an experiential space that
intersects art and technology.

Margherita Mirabella (left) and
Luke Scileppi, sales area manager,
NY & NJ for Ethica Wines

Niccolò Rossi, key
account manager off-trade, Ethica Wines
(left) and Natalie
Honzovicova

Dana Friedman, senior
marketing manager for
Palm Bay International
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Vera Malisani, marketing director
and vice president of sales, Ethica
Wines (left) and Elisa Calvello,
manager of public relations, events
and media, Ethica Wines

Jacqueline Strum,
president and publisher
of Wine Enthusiast Media
(left) and Damiano Sorato,
vice president of sales,
on-trade, Ethica Wines

Dan Storm, assistant
tasting coordinator,
Wine Enthusiast
PHOTOS BY ADAM AU PHOTOGRAPHY

out&about
SIPS AND SNAPS AROUND THE GLOBE

CUNARD’S
FESTIVAL OF
FOOD & WINE
VOYAGE

Will Lyons, wine
columnist,
The Sunday Times

Cunard hosted its Festival
of Food & Wine at the end of
September on the cruise line’s
flagship Queen Mary 2. The
luxury liner embarked from
Southampton, England and
completed its transatlantic
crossing in New York. Wine
Enthusiast partnered with Cunard
to host a sweepstakes offering
the winner an opportunity to join
the voyage. Jacy Topps, assistant
editor at Wine Enthusiast and
host of the Wine Enthusiast
Podcast, presented two seminars
for the guests on board. The
topics included “Learn All About
Rosé Wines & Rosé Pairings” and
“What It's Like to Be an Editor at a
Major Wine Publication.”

Neil Kelly, guest experience project
manager and entertainment director,
Cunard (left) with Jacy Topps

Chef Michel Albert Roux
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

PHOTOS BY BRAXTON PARR

Congratulations to all the Wine Enthusiast 2023 Wine Star winners, and to
CAROLYN WENTE, recipient of the prestigious American Wine Legend award.

2023 WINNER

tune in
ALL EARS

Marie Cheslik
Founder, Slik Wines

Tune In

The

Wine Enthusiast
Podcast, hosted
by Jacy Topps,
is your serving of drinks’ culture
and the people who drive it. The
podcast, which airs twice a month,
features real conversations about
beverage-related topics. Recently,
we’ve been discussing whether
there’s a right or wrong way to
talk about wine, the perceived
stuffiness in wine education and
empowering the Latina community
within the industry. Listen
everywhere you get your podcasts
or at wineenthusiast.com/podcast.

Being in wine
tastings and
masterclasses
is already
intimidating. But
it’s way more
intimidating when
you don’t see
people in the room
that look like you.
Martha Cisneros Paja
Founder, Latinas Wine Club

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Each of
our own
languages of
wine is most
important,
regardless of
what someone
else is going
to tell you
about what
you should be
smelling.
Alice Achayo
Founder, The Wine Linguist

Scan me to listen now

The two
biggest
problems in
wine education
are the
terminology
and its cultural
perception.

Our party-starter
pairing guide goes snack,
sparkle and pop.
BY

ANNA-CHRISTINA
CABRALES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

MARSHALL
TROY
FOOD STYLING BY

DANA
BONAGURA
PROP STYLING BY

JESSICA
ZINDREN

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 19

GUACAMOLE (AND CHIPS)
Zippy expressions of yellow stone fruit and quince
beautifully enhance the creamy ripeness of avocado,
while the wine’s bright acidity enhances the guac’s lime
and salt. The toasty brioche undertones help satisfy the
palate while you dive in with another chip.

BUBBLES & BITES

TRY:

Gamet 2018 “Heurte-Loup” Blanc de Meunier
Brut Nature (Champagne)

BE AN &
CHEESE TAQUITOS

A welcome-glass of bubbles is de rigueur this
time of year (and really, why not any time?), but
that doesn’t mean the pairings must be overly
fussy to be perfect. We took a stroll down the
snack aisle, raided the pantry and put together a
cheese board to create a spread of simple things you
can throw on a table or pass around for your guests to
nosh and still have time to enjoy their company. The basic
rule is you don’t have to go overboard to find the perfect
complements to Champagne. But go right ahead and
dip those chips in caviar.

A no-brainer pairing for comforting earthy
and cheese-rich bites, Champagne’s still
Pinot Noir, especially in warmer vintages,
delivers luscious red fruits and subtle spices.
Vibrant acidity and silky tannins pierce the crunch
of the crispy tortilla.
TRY:

Pehu-Simonet “Les Blancs Fossés” Coteaux
Champenois Rouge 2019 (Champagne)

ANDY CAPP ’S
HOT FRIES
A Brut Blanc de Blancs is an ideal choice
for layers of spice, as it complements flavors
without overpowering them. Striking the right
level of sweetness is essential; wines that are
either too sweet or too dry can throw off the
balance, so it’s all about finding that sweet (and
spicy) spot.

EDAMAME

TRY:

Champagne Gosset NV Grand Blanc de Blancs
(Champagne)

BEEF JERKY
A Brut rosé with extra age plus a healthy proportion
of oak-aged Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be a
formidable match against unusual combinations
of sweet and spicy. Apart from being full-bodied,
the flavors run the spectrum of ripe red fruits, orange
liqueur, Carroway seeds, spice, beef stock and stone
minerality. It effortlessly tackles the heat of black
peppercorn, spicy chili oil or even jalapeño-beef jerky
covered in chocolate or maple syrup. Bring it on!
TRY:

Vilmart & Cie 2014 “Emotion” Brut Rosé
(Champagne)

GOUGÈRES
At every wine party, there’s always that one
person who (lucky us) brings a geeky, rare wine
choice, maybe a blend with less frequently
planted varietals such as Petit Meslier or even
Arbanne. If you’re unsure which bite it might
initially work with, stick with the classics like
these salty-cheesy bites. They’re tried and
true, so why mess with a good thing?
TRY:

Geoffroy NV “Les Houtrants
Complantés” 1er Cru Brut
Nature (Champagne)

If you prefer a still-white
wine, explore the vibrant
and rare Chardonnay
expressions from
Champagne. There’s a
versatile spectrum, from
dynamic, mediumbodied options reminiscent of Chablis, to richer,
full-bodied choices.
Lemongrass, straw and
light herbal notes add
depth to edamame’s
sweet nuttiness, while
a dusting of flaky salt
complement the wine’s
inherent bright acidity.
TRY:

Louis Roederer
“Camille Hommage”
Coteaux de Champenois
Blanc Le Mesnil-surOger 2020

CHEDDAR
CHEDDAR
POPCORN
POPCORN

POTATO
POTATO CHIPS
CHIPS
(WITH
(WITH CAVIAR)
CAVIAR)

Best
Best to
to have
have aa lot
lot of
of
popcorn
popcorn on
on hand,
hand, because
because
this
this pairing
pairing is
is aa crowdcrowdpleaser.
pleaser. The
The sharp
sharp cheddar
cheddar
cheese
cheese and
and buttery
buttery richness
richness
play
play beautifully
beautifully against
against
the
the clean,
clean, effervescent
effervescent
backdrop
backdrop and
and brioche
brioche notes
notes
of
of aa vintage
vintage Blanc
Blanc de
de Blancs
Blancs
Champagne.
Champagne.

This
This ultimate
ultimate classic
classic pairing
pairing demonstrates
demonstrates aa
perfect
perfect balance
balance of
of elements.
elements. Chardonnay’s
Chardonnay’s crisp
crisp
citrus
citrus and
and saline
saline profile
profile seamlessly
seamlessly matches
matches
caviar’s
caviar’s briny-richness
briny-richness and
and umami.
umami. Together
Together
they
they create
create aa delightful
delightful interplay
interplay of
of sophistisophisticated
cated nuance
nuance on
on the
the palate.
palate. Cleansing
Cleansing bubbles
bubbles
help
help refresh
refresh the
the palate,
palate, ensuring
ensuring that
that each
each
delicate
delicate bead
bead is
is savored.
savored.
TRY:
TRY:

Gaston
Gaston Chiquet
Chiquet NV
NV “Blanc
“Blanc de
de Blancs
Blancs
d’Aÿ”
d’Aÿ” Brut
Brut (Champagne)

TRY:
TRY:

Pierre
Pierre Gimonnet
Gimonnet && Fils
Fils
2018
2018 “Cuvée
“Cuvée Gastronome”
Gastronome”
Brut
Brut (Champagne)

WHICH
WHICH GLASS
GLASS
SHOULD
SHOULD II USE?
USE?
Unlocking
Unlocking Champagne’s
Champagne’s
intricacies
intricacies and
and flavors
flavors is
is all
all
about
about treating
treating it
it like
like still
still wine
wine
and
and fully
fully appreciating
appreciating its
its aromas
aromas
and
and nuances.
nuances. For
For nonvintage
nonvintage
and
and stainless
stainless steel-aged
steel-aged wines,
wines,
reach
reach for
for an
an all-purpose
all-purpose or
or white
white
wine
wine glass.
glass. To
To savor
savor delicate
delicate
floral
floral notes,
notes, opt
opt for
for a
a mediummediumwide
wide tulip
tulip glass,
glass, which
which works
works
especially
especially well
well for
for vintage
vintage
bottlings.
bottlings. If
If you’re
you’re diving
diving into
into
bubbles
bubbles that
that have
have seen
seen some
some
oak
oak aging
aging or
or barrel
barrel fermentation,
fermentation,
embrace
embrace the
the Burgundy
Burgundy glass
glass
to
to let
let the
the wine
wine breathe
breathe and
and
boast
boast its
its true
true power.
power. And
And raise
raise
a
a flute…
flute… if
if you
you feel
feel like
like it.
it.

STUFFED
STUFFED MUSHROOMS
MUSHROOMS

OYSTERS
OYSTERS
Brut
Brut nature
nature (also
(also referred
referred to
to as
as
brut
brut zero
zero or
or brut
brut sauvage)
sauvage) are
are
wines
wines without
without added
added dosage
dosage and
and
offer
offer aa zesty
zesty burst
burst of
of acidity.
acidity. Taking
Taking
aa sip
sip between
between slurps
slurps is
is equivalent
equivalent
to
to squeezing
squeezing fresh
fresh lemon
lemon on
on
oysters.
oysters.
TRY:
TRY:

Louis
Louis Roederer
Roederer Philippe
Philippe Starck
Starck
Brut
Brut Nature
Nature Blanc
Blanc de
de Blancs
Blancs
Brut
Brut Nature
Nature 2015
2015 (Champagne)

ITALIAN
ITALIAN RAINBOW
RAINBOW
COOKIES
COOKIES
So
So long
long as
as your
your cookie
cookie isn’t
isn’t overly
overly
sweet,
sweet, aa Brut
Brut rosé
rosé can
can enhance
enhance or
or
add
add aa vibrant
vibrant layer
layer of
of ripe
ripe strawberstrawberries
ries and
and raspberries,
raspberries, adding
adding depth
depth of
of
flavor
flavor to
to the
the dark
dark chocolate.
chocolate. Almond
Almond
or
or hazelnut
hazelnut paste
paste seamlessly
seamlessly mirrors
mirrors
notes
notes found
found in
in the
the Champagne.
Champagne.

Laurent-Perrier
Laurent-Perrier NV
NV Cuvée
Cuvée Brut
Brut
Rosé
Rosé (Champagne)

SMOKED
SMOKED SALMON
SALMON
Add
Add aa smear
smear of
of crème
crème fraîche
fraîche and
and aa sprig
sprig of
of dill
dill over
over
toast
toast to
to bring
bring home
home the
the sophisticated
sophisticated nuances
nuances of
of aa
blend
blend of
of all
all seven
seven traditional
traditional Champagne
Champagne varieties
varieties in
in
this
this classic
classic pairing.
pairing. With
With remarkably
remarkably clean,
clean, captivating
captivating
and
and slightly
slightly saline
saline flavors,
flavors, it’s
it’s like
like aa disco
disco ball
ball on
on your
your
palate,
palate, leaving
leaving tantalizingly
tantalizingly brisk
brisk mineral
mineral sensations.
sensations.
TRY:
TRY:

TRY:
TRY:

Champagne
Champagne Alexandre
Alexandre Bonnet
Bonnet 2018
2018 “7
“7 Cépages”
Cépages”
La
La Géande
Géande Les
Les Riceys
Riceys (Champagne)

Sec
Sec wines
wines may
may appear
appear round
round in
in texture,
texture, but
but their
their
underlying
underlying sweetness
sweetness (with
(with between
between 17–23
17–23 grams
grams
per
per liter
liter of
of residual
residual sugar)
sugar) can
can be
be unexpectedly
unexpectedly
brilliant
brilliant pairings
pairings when
when matched
matched with
with robust
robust earthy
earthy
flavors.
flavors. The
The sweetness
sweetness of
of the
the wine
wine not
not only
only accenaccentuates
tuates the
the richness
richness of
of ingredients
ingredients such
such as
as cheese
cheese
stuffing
stuffing and
and buttery
buttery breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs but
but also
also bridges
bridges
the
the gap
gap between
between spices,
spices, herbs
herbs and
and sauces
sauces to
to create
create
aa harmonious
harmonious pairing.
pairing.
TRY:
TRY:

Champagne
Champagne Taittinger
Taittinger NV
NV Nocturne
Nocturne Sec
Sec
(Champagne)
CHICKEN
CHICKEN
EMPANADAS
EMPANADAS
Embrace
Embrace the
the ripe
ripe citrus
citrus
tones
tones of
of aa Blanc
Blanc de
de Blancs
Blancs to
to
enhance
enhance the
the savory
savory flavors
flavors of
of
empanadas,
empanadas, whether
whether they’re
they’re
baked,
baked, fried
fried or
or contain
contain sweet
sweet
elements
elements such
such as
as raisins.
raisins.
Reach
Reach for
for aa Brut
Brut expression
expression
with
with aa creamy
creamy texture
texture to
to
complete
complete aa satisfyingly
satisfyingly round
round
mouthfeel.
mouthfeel.
TRY:
TRY:

Champagne
Champagne Palmer
Palmer && Co
Co
NV
NV Blanc
Blanc de
de Blancs
Blancs Brut
Brut
(Champagne)
WINE
21
WINE ENTHUSIAST
ENTHUSIAST || 21

CHAMPS & CHEESE

SMOKED GOUDA

Gouda’s natural sweetness and delicate caramel
tones match seamlessly with Champagne’s brioche-like nuances developed through lees
aging or light toffee tones from barrel aging. A traditional blend dominated by Pinot Noir
or Meunier can offer quince and saffron spices, while the addition of Chardonnay provides
a refreshing lift to the palate.
TRY:

Leclerc-Briant NV Réserve Brut (Champagne)

CHÄLLERHOCKER Smooth and dense cheeses such as chällerhocker
(a complex Alpine cheese) can offer enjoyable textural pairings. Blanc de Noirs (100%
Pinot Noir) expressions with a gentle roundness from extended lees aging, coupled
with ripe berry and orchard fruit and a hint of smoke harmonize with the cheese’s
nuttiness, sour cream profile and butterscotch undertones.
TRY:

Piper-Heidsieck NV “Essentiel” Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (Champagne)

BRIE

Brie’s mild character serves as an ideal canvas for more delicate wines (such
as the rare biodynamic bottling of 100% Pinot Gris recommended here). Soft flavors of
vibrant yellow citrus and orchard fruits stay persistent on the palate, while silky textures are
enhanced by the cheese’s creaminess.
TRY:

Champagne Fleury 2015 “Variation” Brut Nature Sans Soufre (Champagne)

PARMIGIANO -REGGIANO

Parmigiano-Reggiano offers robust yet
refined fruity-nutty notes and can be tricky. This cheese demands a complex partner such as
a Brut rosé with extended lees aging. The payoff: a sophisticated melding of Morello cherry,
nuttiness and spice.
TRY:

Champagne Telmont NV Reserve Brut Rosé (Champagne)

CHÈVRE

The earthy tanginess of chèvre is the perfect companion for a fruity Brut
rosé. While wild strawberries take center stage, the cheese’s tang effortlessly teases out
nuances of cherry skins and tangerine, creating a delightful and well-balanced pairing.
TRY:

Champagne Baron-Fuenté NV Rosé Dolorès Brut (Champagne)

DUCK PROSCIUT TO

Elevate rich gamy tones with a Brut rosé that
offers red fruits, saffron, wild thyme and peppercorns. The subtly sweet flavors
of raspberries and strawberries balance prosciutto’s earthiness, while mouthwatering acidity cuts through richness.
TRY:

Franck Pascal NV Tolérance Brut Rosé (Champagne)

NORI MAKI ARARE

Demi-Sec wines, dosed anywhere between
32–50 grams of residual sugar per liter, offer
noticeable sweetness. This can be your best friend for umami-packed preparations—
as in sushi with rich fish, or even this simple crunchy snack—to help provide balance and
cleanse the palate.

(Seaweed-wrapped Crackers)

TRY:

A. Margaine NV “Le Demi Sec” (Champagne)

OLIVES & CURED ME AT

Charcuterie boards are a rollercoaster of
flavors, from tangy cheeses and spicy salumi to briny olives. Match those ups and downs with
a rare wine boasting all seven original Champagne varietals. This pairing cranks up the tang,
spice and brine.
TRY:

Mouzon-Leroux 2017 “Les Fervins – Parcellaire” Extra Brut (Champagne)

ADD A SME AR OF JAM

Sometimes all you need is a touch of fruity sweetness
to complete a bite. Use this condiment to unleash layers of sweet bramble fruit and violets in a Brut
Noir. Added bonus: a tantalizing lemon-tart finish.
TRY:

Goutorbe Bouillot NV Noir Coteaux Brut (Champagne)

CONGRATULATIONS
to a l l 2023 Wine St a r Awa rd Winners a nd Nom inees

gallo.com

BUBBLES & BOULANGERIE

A brief and irreverent history of the Fossier Biscuit,
a piece of stale pink bread 350 years in the making.
BY

MICHAEL
ALBERTY

It is rumored
that before
King Louis XVI
lost his head,
he told the
crowd, “I’m
going to miss
that biscuit.”

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

TOM ARENA

head filled with a crunch
that sounded like bears
eating potato chips as I bit
down on the rock-hard pink
biscuit. The flavor, a wisp of
unsweetened Kool-Aid powder, didn’t help.
I considered using the remainder of the threeinch rectangle topped with powdered sugar to
level the wobbly wine bar table. Sensing my
befuddlement, a passing waiter blurted out for
everyone to hear, “You’re supposed to dip them
in your Champagne.”
I dutifully submerged the pink object into my
bubbles. The biscuit’s tiny air pockets soaked up
the Champagne to create a pink pillow filled with
red berry flavors. Then it hit me. I exclaimed,
“Come quickly; I am tasting Cap’n Crunch’s
Crunch Berries.”
Despite my inauspicious first taste of Maison
Fossier’s Le Biscuit Rose de Reims, I am now
hooked on the little pink biscuit that looks like it
could double as a daybed in Barbie’s Dreamhouse.
I’m admittedly late to the Fossier party, as this
delightful Champagne dunker has been around
since the early 1690s. The biscuit was such a hit
at King Louis XVI’s coronation feast in 1775 that
Fossier was immediately named an official baker
to the crown. It is rumored that before King Louis
XVI lost his head, he told the crowd, “I’m going
to miss that biscuit.” The newly widowed Marie
Antoinette enjoyed Fossier’s biscuits for another
nine months.
How’d it get that bubble-gum hue though?
The story goes that after finishing the bread for
the day, a Reims baker wanted to use the stillwarm ovens to make a special twice-baked treat
that today we know as a biscuit. The sugary
recipe included mashed vanilla pods, adding
flecks to the off-white biscuit’s color. Wishing to
camouflage the unsightly blemishes, the baker
used a natural dye to turn the biscuit pink. The
dye is called carmine, which consists of tiny
bugs called cochineal beetles (which used to give
Campari its red color) that are dried and crushed
into a reddish powder. Carmine remains a part of
the Fossier Biscuit recipe to this day.
But don’t let crushed bugs deter you from
dipping Fossier’s Le Biscuit Rose de Reims in
your Champagne. The only thing you will taste,
besides the bubbles, is Crunch Berries and a
dollop of powdered sugar sediment in the last
little sip.
If it’s good enough for Marie Antoinette, it is
good enough to let all the rest of us eat.

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Wine Touring Guide

ON THE GROUND

Around the world, sparkling wine producers are walking their
social and environmental talk.
BY
L.M. ARCHER

ecently, Champagne backtracked
on its promise to reduce the use
of herbicides, leaving consumers
outraged, and thirsty for sparkling
winemakers willing to walk

their talk toward social and environmental
responsibility.
Luckily, a few biodynamic bubble makers
already do just that, having eliminated the
use of all herbicides, pesticides and other
harmful chemicals and focusing on the health
and longevity of their land. The result: vibrant,
transparent sparklers, expressive of place and

MARÇAL FONT FOR RACEREDO

vintage.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 27

“What is the cost to the
planet of growing on a solely
productive and volumebased conception?”
–Ton Mata,
enologist, Recaredo

Working in Harmony
“We’ve always been dedicated to doing
everything we could to work in harmony
with the environment in which we’re
growing our grapes,” says Jim Bernau, who
cofounded Oregon’s biodynamic sparkling
winery Domaine Willamette with wife
Jan. “Biodynamics is really an extension of
that desire.”
Bernau also founded Willamette Valley
Vineyard (WVV) in 1983, where he proved
an early adopter of Oregon’s sustainable
LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology)
certification and Salmon-Safe vineyard
practices.
Equally important, biodynamic farming
allows winemakers an opportunity to
work in harmony with their teams. “It is
necessary to emphasize that biodynamics
is also [about] people—their ability to work
as a great team under shared values like
honesty, commitment, respect to nature
and themselves,” says Ton Mata, CEO,
enologist and third-generation owner of
Spanish Cava producer Recaredo. Located
in the Penedès region, Recaredo achieved
the region’s first biodynamic certification
in 2010. Founded in 1924, the estate claims
fame for its long-aged, brut nature-only
sparkling wines.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

But biodynamic farming does present
some struggles. “We’re very worried for
climate change and the bad situation
we’re facing these days,” says thirdgeneration Anna Nardi, director and brand
ambassador for Perlage, Prosecco DOCG’s
first organic winery. “And that’s the reason
for all our choices.”
The Nardi family founded Perlage in
1985, introducing their first biodynamic
Prosecco in 2004. Deeply committed to
sustainability, Perlage later earned VIVA
(Evaluation of the Impact of Viticulture on
the Environment) certification in 2022,
vegan certification in 2015 and B-Corp
status in 2016.
Perlage sources all the grapes for
its flagship biodynamic Col di Manza
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore DOCG Prosecco Millesimato from
one 12.35-acre biodynamic vineyard atop
the hills of Farra di Soligo.
In Spain, Recaredo combats climate
change via both proactive and adaptive
methods. These include lowering yields and
cultivating local varieties able to withstand
higher temperatures and altitudes, such as
the native Xarel-lo. Today, Xarel-lo accounts
for 60% of Recaredo’s total plantings,
derived by massale selection (cuttings
from its oldest vines), thereby increasing
vineyard biodiversity and resilience.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARÇAL FONT, ANDRÉA JOHNSON, MARÇAL FONT, COURTESY OF PERLAGE, MARÇAL FONT

Climate
Change Challenges

Recaredo
2023 harvest

Ecological vs.
Economic Costs

Jim Bernau with the
resident sheep of
Domaine Willamette

Recaredo

Life in the
soil of Perlage

Costs prove another challenge. “It’s a
substantial investment at the start,
because the land must be prepped using
biodynamic methods,” says Terry Culton,
director of winemaking and vineyards at
Willamette Valley Vineyards and Domaine
Willamette. “It’s more labor intensive.
You can’t spray herbicides, so we have to
use hand labor and animals to control
[invasive plants].
Opened in 2022, the winery’s Bernau
Estate Vineyard (which applied for Demeter
Biodynamic Certification the same year),
grows 9 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and
Pinot Meunier planted in 2019, and another
15 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 1994.
Culton estimates that biodynamic
farming costs run about 15% higher than
his other LIVE-certified vineyards. However,
economy of scale helps. “We are already
investing in sustainable farming practices
at all of our sites, otherwise the additional
costs would be even higher.”
Ultimately, biodynamic bubble makers
believe that the social and ecological benefits
far outweigh the economic costs. “It is
obvious that there is a higher cost,” stresses
Mata, “but what is the cost to the planet of
growing on a solely productive and volumebased conception?”
“There’s a value and a return on
investment that we believe will show in the
bottle,” concludes Culton. “We’re already
committed to sustainable farming in all of
our vineyards. This is our chance to take it
a step further. We feel that this extra effort
will be rewarded with an amazing bottle of
sparkling wine.”

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 29

CROSSING CHRONICLES
GRAPE:
Thick-skinned, slowripening, aromatic
white variety
CROSSING OF:
Ugni Blanc and
Rayon d’Or
AROMAS/
FLAVORS:
Floral perfume,
honey, pear, golden
apple, grape juice
WINE STYLES:
Still, sparkling and a
range of sweetness
levels—from off-dry
to luscious

ould this be the next grape variety to have its moment
in the spotlight? Developed by French grape grower
Jean Louis Vidal in the 1930s, Vidal Blanc was
originally created to produce Cognac. But its ability
to withstand frigid temperatures in the vineyard and
produce a unique yet approachable flavor profile has qualified it as
a white wine variety that can be loved by all kinds of wine drinkers.
A hybrid variety born from Ugni Blanc (also known as Italian
white grape variety Trebbiano) and Rayon d’Or, Vidal Blanc is an
aromatic grape with strong notes of fresh florals, honey, pear, golden
apple and even Welch’s white grape juice. But when it is consumed,
wine drinkers might be surprised by Vidal Blanc’s vibrant fruit
flavor and racy acidity with just a touch of sweetness.
“Vidal is one of those grapes where you can’t smell the sweetness,
but the florality is the variety’s most memorable characteristic,”
says Torrey Grant, adjunct professor of wine appreciation at
Syracuse University, adding that New York’s Finger Lakes region
is an ideal region for Vidal because the variety must work for its
ripeness. “You have an area that can be cold, wet, prone to frost and
mildew—all conditions that Vidal Blanc was created to adapt to.”
But the Finger Lakes isn’t the only region having all the fun with
Vidal Blanc. Michigan, Virginia, Ohio, Missouri and Minnesota are
just a few states in the U.S. where Vidal Blanc is grown for sweet,
dry and sparkling wine production.
In Canada, Vidal Blanc is treasured for the country’s famous
Icewines. Since the 1970s, Inniskillin has led the way in Icewine
production, embracing its unique microclimate and complex soil
composition generated by glaciers that once covered the region.
“The Ontario wine country is located between 41° and 44° North,

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

a range that represents the heart of the world’s fine wine zone for
regions such as Chianti Classico in Tuscany and Burgundy,” says
Irene Graziotto, wine media strategist and certified Associazione
Italiana Sommelier (AIS). “Back in the mid-1980s, producers were
looking for a grape that could preserve freshness despite Ontario’s
hot summer, and Vidal has a high natural acidity and thick skin
that could allow for the production of Icewines, without breaking
during the ripening season.” While Vidal Blanc can withstand
temperatures as low as -28° C (-18°F), the grapes still must be
harvested in a healthy condition in order to make the best Icewine.
In addition to its vibrancy and vitality, Vidal Blanc also has
great value as an everyday table wine. In Maryland, Boyd Cru
Wines created its Community Vidal Blanc to encourage consumers
to explore beyond what they’re used to. Jon’ll Boyd, who co-owns
Boyd Cru with her husband, Matthew, first encountered Vidal
Blanc during an apprenticeship at Hosmer Winery in the
Finger Lakes region. She recalls learning about a number of
hybrid grape varieties at the time and being fascinated by their
adaptability. “When Matthew and I were first considering
winemaking, Vidal Blanc wasn’t on our radar, but we were
considering grapes we enjoyed and this was one of them,” says Boyd.
“We want to bring something different to the market that’s joyful,
vibrant and approachable.”
The opportunity for Vidal Blanc to have its moment is possible,
but it will be up to wine producers to communicate the beauty and
diversity of the wines. “Vidal will have to find a foothold between
being a fun wine and a wine that can appeal to those who appreciate
[traditional] European white grape varieties,” says Grant.
—Chasity Cooper

ANDRESSA MEISSNER

Vintners find vivacity and versatility
with what’s become a classic hybrid grape.

ADVENTURE
AWAITS

SCAN TO EXPLORE
JUGGERNAUT WINES

RECIPE OF THE MONTH

Blood oranges give this
winter tart a radiant hue.

PHOTO: MARSHALL TROY
PROPS: JESSICA ZINDREN
FOOD: DANA BONAGURA

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

* TO MAKE SHORTCRUST PASTRY:

Combine 150 grams flour, 50
grams sugar and 85 grams
butter in a bowl. Rub together
with your fingertips until the
mixture resembles breadcrumbs or rough sand. Add 1
egg yolk and 1 teaspoon ice
water to form a dough. Shape
into a ball, then flatten into a
disc. Cover in plastic wrap and
chill in the refrigerator for at
least 30 minutes before rolling out into a 12-inch round,
placing in pan and folding
edges back into it.

MALTESE ORANGE TART
Excerpted with permission from Malta by Simon
Bajada, published by Hardie Grant Publishing
For the crust, use your preferred recipe (pâte brisée, sablée
or sucrée) or follow the instructions at left.
1

shortcrust pastry* (pâte brisée, sablée or sucrée) for a
9-inch tart pan, chilled

large eggs
cup caster (superfine) sugar

Grated zest of

blood orange

tablespoons fresh-squeezed blood orange juice

tablespoon lemon juice

stick (8 tablespoons) butter, diced

blood orange, sliced thinly (for garnish)

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 33

In With The Old:
How Marqués de Riscal Is Saving Its Historic Vines

Throughout its history, Marqués de Riscal has led many
innovations in Spanish winemaking. The estate first introduced

MARQUÉS DE RISCAL VERDEJO, RUEDA DOC

Bordeaux winemaking techniques to Rioja and was instrumental

As one of the founders of Rueda DOC, the winery understands the
region’s terroir better than almost anyone. This expertise can be
tasted in the fresh and lively Verdejo, with notes of tropical fruits
and verbena. With its mindful farming methods in the vineyard
and organic practices in the cellar, the Verdejo received organic
certification in 2018, adding to the collection of certified organic
wines in the Marqués de Riscal portfolio.

in the creation of Rueda DOC. Now its legacy continues as the
estate implements several important sustainability initiatives,
including revitalizing historic vineyards.
In the 1990s, the viticulture team started to notice that vines
planted in the ‘70s were not thriving as well as many of their older
vines. But, instead of ripping out the struggling vines, they opted
to graft wood from the high-quality old vines onto the failing
ones. At the time this was an innovative technique, and the results
astounded the community. With their deep, well-established
rootstocks, these regrafted vines were already steps ahead of any
new plantings, swiftly producing quality fruit and wine.
Marqués de Riscal continued this experiment, first in Rueda
then in Rioja. After decades of research, it committed fully to this

MARQUÉS DE RISCAL RESERVA, RIOJA DOCA
The Tempranillo in this iconic wine comes from vineyards planted
prior to 1970 and these old vines play a vital role in the estate’s
vineyard rejuvenation initiative. Layered and complex thanks to the
old-vine Tempranillo, the wine also shows brightness and finesse
thanks to a small addition of Graciano in the cuvée.

system. Since 2017, 445 acres have been regrafted.
Fighting climate change goes hand-in-hand with vine conservation.
In Rueda and Rioja combined, 1,779 acres of Marqués de Riscal’s
vineyards now carry an organic certification, with another 247 in
the process of conversion. Regenerative farming, which improves

MARQUÉS DE RISCAL XR RESERVA, RIOJA DOCA

both soil health and promotes biodiversity aboveground, also

As in the Bordeaux tradition, barrels of wine that display a unique
character receive an “XR” in chalk. The estate now bottles these
special selections—made from vines at least 50 years old—separately.
Through organic farming and innovative pruning methods, the estate
believes old vines reveal unique, standout qualities all their own.

figures prominently in the winery’s work. Additionally, Marqués
de Riscal follows the pruning methods of Simonit and Sirch—a
less-invasive technique that minimizes the risk of disease. These
are just a few of the projects the estate currently employs in an
effort to preserve its treasure trove of historic vines. The standout
results can be tasted in the lineup of Marqués de Riscal wines.

SPONSORED PROMOTION

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

A cozy hot toddy that has all
the boozy bells and whistles.
Nothing counteracts a chill like
the cozy pleasure of a hot toddy,”
says William Elliott, executive
bar director of Brooklyn’s Maison Premiere.
The New Orleans-style oyster bar
rightly gets a lot of attention for its Martini
and Sazerac “service,” which brings drink
prep tableside—but its less-known Toddy
Service is ideal for the chilly season. In
fact, it’s only available at Maison from
September through mid-April.
Think of it as tea with boozy bells and
whistles, providing fortifying comfort for
one or a group. Hot water poured over
spices in a tea strainer quickly infuses
the drink, which can be made with a wide
range of spirits and sweeteners. Finishing
touches like aromatic bitters, absinthe or a
quick squeeze of fresh lemon are optional;
warming enjoyment is mandatory.
–Kara Newman

Hot water, in a pitcher, kettle or other vessel
2

ounces spirit (try Cognac, bourbon, rye, aged
rum or a red bitter like Campari)
–1 ounce sweetener (try simple syrup, 1:1 sugar
to hot water; or honey syrup, 2:1 honey to
hot water)

Spices (try cinnamon sticks, star anise,
cardamom or juniper berries)

TOM ARENA

TODDY SERVICE
Aromatic bitters, lemon
wedges and absinthe
are all good optional
additions. Small amounts
of syrups (like ginger
syrup) or liqueurs also can
add flavor, if desired.

Adapted from The Maison Premiere
Almanac (Clarkson Potter, 2023)
You’ll need a tea strainer or fine-mesh strainer
to hold the spices. Beyond that, this recipe can
be easily adapted to accommodate whatever
spices, spirits and flavorings you have on hand.
The core recipe for one, at right, can easily scale
for a small group.

Warm the mug with hot water, then discard the water.
To the mug, add 2 ounces of your chosen spirit and sweetener, to taste ( ⁄ to 1
ounce is common).
Fill the strainer with the desired spices
and place the strainer over the mug. Pour
hot water over the spices into the mug
until full.
Remove the strainer (reserving the
spices for another use) and stir. Squeeze
in fresh lemon juice, if desired. Dash in
bitters or absinthe, if desired.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 35

VINTAGE VANTAGE

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

B O N
V O Y A G E
Diners aboard the ocean
liner Queen Mary in the
mid-1950s toasting in
the ship’s formal dining
room. Decommissioned in
1967, it now resides in the
Port of Long Beach and is
rumored to be haunted.
Credit: Cunard

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 37

PAIROLOGY

Think of a perfectly cooked
medium-rare filet mignon and
you’d bristle at the thought of
adding anything more than some
good salt and freshly ground pepper
(OK, maybe béarnaise sauce,
but just a touch). Take that same
piece of beef when raw, however,
hand mince it as fine as possible,
and it becomes a blank canvas
for a five-star tartare. Tender and
subtle—you could even call steak
tartare a “light” dish—it begs for a
variety of punchy, spicy ingredients
to enhance its flavor without
completely masking it (pro tip: For
most steak tartare recipes, start
with half the suggested quantities
of accouterments and add more to
taste). Don’t relegate steak tartare
to a restaurant dish: As long as you
trust your butcher and your knife
skills, it’s quick and relatively easy
to make at home, where you’ll be
able to experiment with a variety of
wines to pair with it. –Nils Bernstein

�
BRINY

Steak tartare isn’t exactly “beefy,”
which is an adjective we associate
more with cooked beef. In its raw
form, it’s far less powerful, yet a
bit more animalistic (some might
say bloody) with a gentle, pleasant
funk. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, made
primarily from Grenache Noir in
the southern Rhône, embraces its
gamy side and is a confident pick
for steak tartare pairing. You might
get leather, tar, cigar, cinnamon and
black tea among fruits like raspberry,
blackcurrant and black plum.

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

With common add-ins like
Worcestershire, mustard, capers,
anchovies and cornichons to punch
up the meat’s intrinsically soft
flavor, steak tartare often has vividly
pungent briny notes. For powerful
tartares like these, look for juicy reds
with low tannins and a wash of fruit.
Blaufränkisch is a signature grape of
Austria but is also found in the U.S.,
Australia and elsewhere. It’s bright
and peppery, with loads of fresh berry
and cherry fruit. With tartare, serve it
with a slight chill.

�
MINERAL
Raw beef has a faint aroma and taste
of iron, which should come across as
appetizing and never overwhelming in
top-quality meat. Play to this mineral
side with Mencía (called Jaen in
Portugal), the leading grape in Spain’s
Bierzo region and an extremely
underrated food wine. It can show
mineral notes of graphite, slate
and iron alongside its aromatic red
fruit, and is an ideal, if unexpected,
pairing with steak tartare. It’s a great
alternative for Pinot Noir fans.

�
EARTHY
It might just be the mental picture of
cows grazing in a field, but raw beef
has fresh “outdoor” notes akin to
potting soil or cut grass. This could
be why volcanic wines—both white
and red—seem to work so well with it;
they can have smoky, flinty or stony
qualities and often a hint of salinity,
but are elegant enough to work with
tartare’s delicate side. Listán Blanco
(aka Palomino) from the Canary
Islands combines body and structure
with acidity and almost Burgundian
flavors ranging from crisp citrus and
green apple to nuts and roast fennel.

GETTY IMAGES

�
GAMY

“Tartare aller-retour” is a French variation on steak
tartare, where the mixture is formed into patties and
briefly seared on each side, then served with fries.

Cheers to all of this year’s Wine Star Award winners.
A special congratulations to our friend
Joseph E. Gallo for being honored with
the 2023 Lifetime Achievement Award!

Charles Merinoff,
Co-Chairman,
Breakthru Beverage Group

Danny Wirtz,
Co-Chairman,
Breakthru Beverage Group

CAP CONUNDRUM

BY
K AT H L E E N W I L L C O X

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Goldeneye
Confluence
Vineyard in
Anderson Valley

PHTO CREDITS

Experts weigh in on the
right closure for conducting
secondary fermentation in
sparkling wine production.

TOP AND BOTTOM: COURTESY OF GRAHAM BECK, MIDDLE : COURTESY OF GOLDENEYE WINERY

The

closure on a bottle of sparkling
wine is often a clue as to what’s
inside. Bottles under crown
caps are often an indication the wine
should be consumed now, or in the next
few years at most. Conversely, traditionally
minded producers almost always present
their sparkling wines under mushroom
cork, believing it is the best way to ensure
optimum ageability for long-term cellaring.
But there’s another, less visible choice
producers make behind the scenes that
some believe impacts the flavor and
character of the final product just as much
as their ultimate closure choice. It concerns
what happens behind closed doors during
the second fermentation—and it also
involves corks and caps. This stage is key
in the traditional sparkling winemaking
process: It happens once the wines have
been blended and bottled, when a liqueur
de tirage—a blend of still wine, sugar and
yeast—is added to the bottle to naturally
create the bubbles within. And there are
those producers who opt to conduct this
process under cork, while others opt for
the crown.
The crown bottle cap was invented
in 1891 by a mechanical engineer named
William Painter and patented in 1892.
Since then, the inexpensive, simple cap
has been used by many sparkling wine
producers during secondary fermentation
as an efficient and less expensive alternative
to the cork.
But the cork and the crown do produce
different results, according to producers
speaking from their own experience and
observations and analytical studies.
One such study, published in the South
African Journal of Enology and Viticulture
in 2021, compared bottles fermented under
cork and cap, analyzing bottle pressure,
phenolic acids, sensory attributes and
other aspects of the wine’s development.
The study found that the two approaches
created different wines.
The authors noted that bottles sealed
with corks during fermentation produced
smaller bubbles and delivered a longer
aftertaste. This method also produced wines
that took longer to lose their trademark
effervescence after being poured.

Team Cork
Even the most cork-enamored producers
see a place for the crown cap in their less
expensive lines or thsoe wines created to
be consumed immediately.
Pieter Ferreira, COO of Graham
Beck in South Africa’s Breede River
Valley, explains that he took part in
the previously cited study of crownvs. cork-capped wines during second
fermentation. “There were differences,
including improved bubble texture and
an increase in the perceived wine
complexity of wine fermented under cork,”
he says. “The ‘cork effect’ becomes more
noticeable the longer the wine is in contact
with the cork.”
Ferreira is now in the midst of an
analysis with the team at Amorim Cork
in Portugal, comparing the differences
between wines created under cap and cork.
Though, for now, the whole of Graham
Beck’s portfolio available in the U.S. has
been fermented under crown cap, Ferreira
says he’s excited to share the new corkfermented lines in the near future.
“We know already that there are at least
12 different tannin flavor molecules under
cork not found in wines under crown cap,”
he says. “In our newly established Artisan
Collection, we do a 100% fermentation
under cork. Currently we have a singlevineyard Chardonnay and a 100% Pinot
Meunier under cork fermentation and we
are thinking of releasing these toward the
end of 2024.”
Bertrand Lhôpital, cellar master of
Champagne Telmont, concurs. “We
ferment some of our lines under cork,”
Lhôpital says. “You can only feel a real
difference, and the benefits, after five or six
years of aging, which means that it’s only
interesting for some very specific cuvée,
where it adds complexity.”
Corks are up to three times as expensive
as screw and crown caps, so it makes sense
for some producers to utilize them during
second fermentations only for rarefied
cuvées with prices that reflect the cost
of production.

“Bottles sealed with
corks during fermentation
produced smaller bubbles and
delivered a longer aftertaste.”

Team Crown
While many sparkling wine houses would
never consider sealing their bubbles in
anything but cork, using a crown cap during
second ferment is common practice.
At Goldeneye Winery in Philo,
California, meanwhile, winemaker Kristen
McMahan loves what the cap brings to
her wine.
“First of all, there’s no possibility of
cork taint,” McMahan says. “Plus, they are
less expensive and highly effective. Our
intent with the Anderson Valley Brut Rosé
is to produce a fresh, vibrant, bubbly wine
that is fruit and minerality driven. When
aging for less than 24 months, as we do,
both closures perform identically.”
At Piper-Heidsieck in Reims, France,
the team utilizes the crown cap during
secondary fermentation to ensure
consistency. “The cork will allow more
oxygen into the bottle, and you will
see more differences from one cork to
another, so the aging may be slightly
different from one bottle to another,” says
Emilien Boutillat, Piper-Heidsieck’s chief
winemaker. “With the crown cap, you can
choose between different seals and adjust
with a lot more precision on the porosity
you want.”
Sparkling winemakers have always
had one foot rooted in tradition, and the
other striding toward the future. As more
scientific studies of the effect of corks on
the flavor and texture of sparkling wine
emerge, and crown technology evolves,
there will, undoubtedly, be more passionate
proclamations issued, and perhaps some
members of one team will switch to the
other. But declaring a clear winner? At this
point, that appears to be unlikely.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 41

AVA DOSSIER

Founded as a port town, Augusta AVA
holds a special winemaking history.

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

STEVE JETT

may surprise a few to know that the first American Viticultural
Area (AVA) was not in California, or even on the West Coast.
In 1980, the 15-square-mile area of Augusta, Missouri, became
the first official AVA—8 months before Napa Valley. The honor
of becoming the first AVA was awarded to Augusta as much
for its unique terroir as its rich grape growing and winemaking history.
Prior to Prohibition, Missouri was the second largest wineproducing state in the United States. Located about 37 miles outside
of St. Louis, the town of Mt. Pleasant was established as a small port
community in 1936 when German immigrants took advantage of the
Missouri River. In the 1840s, however, the town’s name was changed to
Augusta. Grape growing and winemaking traditions go back almost as
far: Mount Pleasant Estates, established in 1859, is the oldest winery
still in operation from this period.
Prohibition hit the Missouri wine industry hard, but it is slowly
rebuilding (still), with a focus on quality and innovation. Today,
Augusta is home to just five wineries: Augusta Winery, Balducci
Vineyards, Montelle Winery and Mount Pleasant Estates (all managed
by the Hoffmann Family of Companies), as well as family-owned
Noboleis Vineyards.
In this small but mighty region a wide variety of grapes is planted,
from familiar favorites such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay,
to hybrids, including Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc and grape varieties
native to the area. Augusta and surrounding AVAs particularly
champion the Norton grape (the official state grape of Missouri), along
with other native and hybrid varieties, and wineries are making dry and
sweet table wines from them. Colin Pennington, director of winemaking
for the Hoffmann Family of Companies, has his sights set on Vidal Blanc
as the AVA’s signature grape. “Vidal Blanc really shines in the Augusta
AVA,” Pennington says. “The climate leads to wines with intense stone
fruit while the soil adds a level of minerality.”
That “minerality,” Pennington comments, is due to the unique
soils found throughout the AVA. Augusta is bordered by ridges on
the north and west and the Missouri River to the south; flooding
from the Missouri created loamy, silty soils throughout the area.
These boundaries also help moderate temperatures, creating an ideal
microclimate for wine grapes.
While Pennington enjoys working with hybrid grapes, he notes
that the naturally high acidity makes these grapes more challenging
to work with. “There are many ways I try to combat this,” Pennington
says. “Picking time is crucial, and the importance of blending can’t be
overstated.”
Noboleis Vineyards also focuses on native and hybrid grapes, with
estate plantings of Norton, Chambourcin, Vignoles and Traminette.
“Missouri’s climate and nutrient-rich soil allow us to produce varieties
that are native to this area and have their own unique profiles,” notes
Tricia Newbold, marketing director for Noboleis.
Once a booming port town, Augusta is seeing a viticultural
renaissance. Companies are investing in winemaking in the area, while
advances in hybrid grape breeding and a deeper understanding of native
grapes are increasing the quality of those wines. —Allison Sheardy

Date AVA established:
June 20, 1980
Total size:
15 square miles
Planted acreage:
160

“Missouri's climate
and nutrient-rich soil
allow us to produce
varieties that are
native to this area.”
–Tricia Newbold,
Noboleis Vineyards

Most planted grapes:
Cabernet Sauvignon
Chardonnay
Chambourcin
Seyval Blanc
Vidal Blanc
Norton
Climate:
Continental with
some humidity
Number of
wineries:
Five

Noboleis Vineyards

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 43

cheers
BESIDES THE POINTS

THIS YEAR:
WE blind-tasted more
than 23,000 wines that
scored 80 or higher
4 of these wines scored
100 points

This includes red
wines from Bordeaux
and Portugal, a
Tokaji Essencia and a
100-year-old tawny
from Australia

Top 5

Editors’ Choice

Cellar Selections

Hidden Gems

Our reviewers think these
wines provide a good
value or are especially
noteworthy.

Our reviewers have
determined these
wines are exceptionally
ageworthy.

Looking for something
a little different? Our
reviewers think you
absolutely should try
these atypical wines.

97
97

Ceretto 2019 Prapo’
Nebbiolo (Barolo)
$145; 14.5% abv
Patz & Hall 2020
Bootlegger’s Hill Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley)
$65; 14.5% abv

Quivira 2020 Katz
Vineyard Estate Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley)
$68; 14.5% abv

Rip out this page and stuff it in
your pocket for when you go to
the wine shop next or just search
wineenthusiast.com/ratings.

$110; 14.9% abv

96
“The autumnal,
faintly melancholic
nose is a windswept
traveler, wrapped in
his old leather jacket
and blowing cigar
smoke into the
dying sweet breezes
of summer.”
–Danielle Callegari

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Dossier 2021 Flagship
Index Bordeaux-style Red
Blend (Columbia Valley)

Hendry 2021 Barrel
Fermented Chardonnay
(Napa Valley)
$38; 14.5% abv

Philipponnat 2014 Clos
des Goisses Extra Brut
Champagne Blend
(Champagne)

$350; 12.5% abv
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
2020 Cask 23 Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District)

Corollary 2018 Winter’s
Hill Sparkling Pinot Blanc
(Willamette Valley)
$60; 12.5% abv

Schnaitmann 2019
Lämmler GG Dry Riesling
(Württemberg)
$75; 13% abv

$305; 14.8% abv

99
98

Saints Hills 2020 Ernest
Tolj Plavac Mali (Dinga )

Paringa Estate 2022
Estate Chardonnay
(Mornington Peninsula)

$55; 14.5% abv

Taittinger 2013 Comtes
de Champagne Blanc
de Blancs Grand Cru
Chardonnay (Champagne)

$50; 13% abv
Markus Altenburger
2019 Gritschenberg
Blaufränkisch
(Leithaberg)

$195 12.5% abv

Borgogno 2019 Cannubi
Nebbiolo (Barolo)
$190; 14.5% abv

$60; 13% abv

Wiston Estate Winery
NV Blanc de Blancs
Chardonnay (England)
$50; 12% abv

Turn to
page 50 for
the Top 100
Wines of
the Year

ILLUSTRATION MARYSE CHEVRIERE/@FRESHCUTGARDENHOSE

TOAST WITH

Bubbles have abounded in this issue, and you
wouldn’t be wrong to think we tasted a good
number of sparklers for it, a couple of which
show up in our Top 5 Cellar Selections. On this
page, you’ll also find some wines to discover
in Hidden Gems and five that our editors
have flagged for special notice of those
WE tasted for this issue.

spirited
BOUNDARY ISSUES

my opinion, the tequila world
has seen enough blancos,
enough repos, enough extra
anejos, anejos—it’s been done
so many times,” says Mike Winters, founder
and CEO of Quintaliza Tequila, speaking
in a promotional video used to launch its
“coffee-finished” reposado in June 2023.
“It’s time to come up with something
different, a little more innovative.”
That statement set me on my heels for a
moment after it sank in: The world has seen
enough blancos.
Speaking as someone who just reviewed
a whopping 50-plus blanco bottlings for a
Wine Enthusiast issue this fall, I’ll grant
the possibility that could be true. The rest
of the U.S., and its seemingly limitless
thirst for tequila right now, might heartily
disagree, however—according to IWSR
Drinks Market Analysis, agave spirits
contributed $1.6 billion to the spirits
industry in 2022, accounting for 70% of
the overall volume growth for U.S. spirits.
But is a flood of traditionally made
liquid enough to warrant innovation, just
for the sake of novelty? Honestly, I don’t
think so.
Lately, a number of boundary-pushing
tequila bottles have crossed my desk—
and I can’t decide whether to be excited
or highly cranky about some of these socalled innovations.

“In

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

For example: a “smoked” tequila
(Cenote’s Ahumado), which mingles
smoke and honey tones, resembling
a smoky mezcal, or perhaps a peated
Scotch, depending on your perspective.
Or take Volcan de Mi Tierra’s X.A., which
blends repo, anejo and extra anejo into a
luxury spirit that doesn’t fit neatly into a
prescribed age category but mimics how
Cognac producers blend brandies of various
ages. The end result is rich but still lively—
not unlike a good Cognac. And then there’s
Quintaliza’s reposado, which is rested
in barrels that previously held coffee, a
process that adds nuanced espresso-like
bitterness and a whisper of hazelnut to an
otherwise classic flavor profile.
When it comes to pushing tequila’s
boundaries, how far is too far?
For perspective, I turned to Juan
Coronado, cofounder of Mijenta Tequila
(the craziest the brand gets is a gran
reserva añejo aged in four casks, including
acacia and cherry wood). His take: respect
tequila’s limits.
“I’m a purist,” Coronado says. “I don’t
think tequila needs anything to make it
taste better.” As long as you “control your
processes,” he adds—meaning taking the
time to cook and ferment the agave slowly,
and distill with precision, “I don’t think
tequila needs more than that.”
The world has seen enough blancos.

BY KARA NEWMAN

“I don’t think tequila
needs anything to make it
taste better.”

Maybe this issue is that the world
hasn’t seen enough great blancos (or repos,
anejos, etc.), and that’s the logical place to
start thinking about improvements.
In terms of sourcing business ideas,
there’s something to be said for going
where the crowds are not. But innovating
just because there’s too much of something
that’s already good and well-loved? That’s
not reason enough to expand beyond
existing confines.
My personal take lands somewhere
between those of the experimental Winters
and purist Coronado. Good tequila doesn’t
need to mimic peated whiskey or Cognac; it
doesn’t require an identity crisis. I’m all for
finding the next frontier in the agave space,
but the end result needs to be somehow
better or more interesting than what’s
already out there.
Until then, just let tequila be tequila.
Kara Newman reviews spirits and RTDs for this
magazine and is the author of seven cocktail
books, including Shake.Stir.Sip and Nightcap.
@newman_kara

GETTY IMAGES

LEAVE TEQUILA ALONE

When it comes to pushing
agave’s limits, how far is too far?

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Scan for mocktail recipes!

Take a cue from bottled-up
bottles and give yourself a
moment to unwind.

BY
MARSHALL TILDEN III

it just me or does life these
days feel faster paced and
more stressful than ever? The
cadence in general seems to be
accelerating and multitasking is the new
norm. I suppose we can blame some of that
on the pandemic lockdown, doomscrolling
and 7-second viral videos (thanks, TikTok).
All of a sudden, AI instantly creates
content that used to take us humans
hours or days. Pile on the daily grind and
normal life events that we all endure, and
that additional tension in your neck and
shoulders is easily explained.
Whatever it is that makes you feel as
wound up as a yo-yo ready to be unleashed,
there is always one activity that can help
reduce those stress levels and bring you
back to neutral: breathing. Sometimes we
forget that just a few simple long, deep and
drawn-out breaths can help us relax and
get centered. Just as we all can benefit from
a few minutes of box breathing or the deep
4-7-8 breathing technique (which refers to

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Sometimes we forget
that just a few simple
long, deep and drawn-out
breaths can help us relax
and get centered.

beauty layer by layer.
If you are not sold on how important
breathing is for yourself, just try and go for
a minute without it. This is why these deep,
calming and focused breathing techniques
help our bodies take in as much clean and
healthy oxygen as possible while releasing
all of that carbon dioxide, and negativity, on
the out-breath.

Marshall Tilden III heads the Wine Enthusiast
Academy, Wine Enthusiast’s WSET education
program, and is learning to breathe himself.
@westchesterwine

GETTY IMAGES

JUST LIKE
WINE, WE
ALL NEED TO
BREATHE

the seconds you take to inhale, hold and
exhale—an exercise I highly recommend),
our most treasured bottles of wine can
benefit from that same deep breathing
to unwind and unravel themselves into a
more relaxed state.
You may have just read that last
sentence and asked, “How can wine
relax?” Think about this for a moment:
Have you ever opened a really young, big
and brash red wine? Say a Napa Cab, a
Priorat, an Australian Shiraz or even a
Côte Rôtie, for example? If you just pop
the cork on these wines and pour yourself
a sip, there’s a high likelihood of it being
extremely overpowering with super
concentrated fruit, high alcohol levels
and maybe massive tannins that will have
you sucking in your cheeks. These wines
can come across as wound-up, or tight,
and even one-dimensional in their first
showing straight out of the bottle.
But allow these same wines to interact
with oxygen, and you might imagine they
breathe their own sigh of relief while
swirling around in the decanter or glass.
The densely concentrated fruit stretches
its legs and exudes a variety of primary
aromas and flavors hidden upon first sip.
And those gripping, gritty tannins will
simmer down and soften, just enough to
let you know they are there without
overpowering the palate.
That alcohol level will still
be elevated, but with the
fruit and tannins now
released and relaxed,
the perceived balance
of these structural
components begins
to find harmony on
the palate, gaining
complexity as the
wine continues to
unfurl. It’s almost
like the wine went
from being crunched
in the fetal position
in the bottle to fully
sprawled on a velvet
couch, exposing its inner

A Legacy of Excellence
Far Niente Wine Estates' legacy began in 1885 when the Far Niente Winery was completed in the heart
of Napa Valley. That legacy was furthered more than forty years ago by the Nickel family, who restored
Far Niente with a goal of making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the portfolio includes
pioneer single-vineyard, single-varietal Nickel & Nickel, Bella Union’s expertise in blending,
and Post & Beam’s time-honored techniques to craft its own approachable style.

The Enthusiast

Energize your drinking with the
most exciting wines of the year.
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A RS H A L L T ROY
STYLING BY JESSICA ZINDREN

iscovering great new wines of all types from around the
globe is what drives the Wine Enthusiast team of reviewers. We blind-tasted more than 23,000 bottles in the past
12 months and for The Enthusiast 100 narrowed them down to the
following elite list of exceptional wines.
This year’s 100 are not simply the highest scoring bottles, nor
are they the most expensive—these are wines that opened our reviewers’ eyes and stimulated their imaginations.

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

The Enthusiast 100 includes grape varieties from Albariño to
Zinfandel grown in 14 different countries and five U.S. states. A Petite Arvine from Mendocino, California, a dry Furmint from Tokaji in
Hungary and a rosé of Tempranillo from Italy, not Spain, all give an
idea of the breadth of choices here.
Many are relative values: The average price is $56, with 31 of
them costing $40 or less. Wine No. 1, a terrific 96-point 2019 Napa
Valley Cabernet from Duckhorn, costs $105, which is one-third the

cost of many similarly rated Cabs. The best effort since 2008 from
Duckhorn’s Monitor Ledge Vineyard, the wine is rich in cassis and
baking spices on a soothing texture.
In the No. 2 position, Ratti 2019 Barolo Serradenari from Piedmont, Italy, will age beautifully and make a brilliant addition to
anyone’s collection. The same goes for the No. 3 wine, Schnaitmann 2019 Lämmler GG Dry Riesling from Germany, intensely
spiced and mineral-laced.

The 97 others are wines we’re keeping our eyes on, and you
should, too. Several are from new wineries, under-the-radar regions, made from unusual grape varieties or in innovative styles.
The majority of them are ready to drink now and are sure to bring
something palpably different and energizing to your table.
We urge you to use The Enthusiast 100 to broaden your winedrinking horizons and bring more enjoyment to your entertaining.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 51

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

Schnaitmann 2019 Lämmler GG Dry Riesling
(Württemberg).

—97 pts, A.Z.

With a crème de cassis flavor and a velvety
texture that soothes the palate, this rich and
indulgent wine is easy to love. The charming
black fruits, baking spices and cassis notes
are well matched by rounded tannins. Best
through 2033. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $105

The light-golden color of this Riesling hints at
some development, and that is exactly what
sets this GG apart from its peers. The extra aging only benefits the terrific mix of intensely
spiced and mineral-laced elements to come
out as the acidity integrates and beams on
the rich lemon meringue, white raspberry and
baked apple. The succulent, yet fresh finish
flows on the palate. Drink now–2035. The German Wine Collection. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13%
Price: $75

Duckhorn 2019 Monitor Ledge Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

—96 pts, J.G.

Three Sticks 2021 Gap’s Crown Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).

—97 pts, J.G.
This full-blown, toast- and butter-scented wine
boasts rich fruits, a mouthfilling texture and a
lingering finish. Spicy toasted-oak aromas lead
to vanilla, poached pears, toasted almonds
and cream flavors that swell on the palate and
linger on the finish. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70

Brewer-Clifton 2021 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills).

—95 pts, M.K.

Ratti 2019 Serradenari (Barolo).

Even Greg Brewer’s appellation cuvée carries his
hallmark, addictive combination of sensory sensations. Light in the glass, it begins with aromas
of fresh strawberry, red plum, wild thyme and
chaparral spice on the nose. The palate snaps
with refreshing acidity, powering through vibrant
red fruit, earthy herb and peppery spice flavors.
Delicious, fun, memorable. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45

—97 pts, J.P.
This wine expresses itself with aromas of wild
cherries, tart red plums, dried violets and oolong
tea leaves. The palate is elegant and almost
dances across the mouth, leading with ripe red
fruits that give way to savory flavors of fresh bay
leaf, clove and balsam. Drink 2025–2040. Maze
Row Wine Merchant. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $175

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

5
Rippon 2019 Rippon Mature Vine Lake
Wanaka Pinot Noir (Central Otago).

—97 pts, C.P.
From arguably the most gorgeously located
biodynamic vineyard in the world, this Pinot
is a head-turner. Aromas change in the glass,
expressing various aspects of site and variety:
first succulent currant and blueberry fruit, then
florals and a hint of mushroomy undergrowth,
then scrubby dried herbs growing beside a lake
and snowcapped mountains. The palate is elegant and juicy, with silky softness and floral
delicacy. You’re almost surprised when the
tannins rush in to cinch it into place. This is one
of Rippon’s finest Pinots to date. Drink now–
2030. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65

Castello Bonomi 2016 CruPerdu Grande
Annata Extra Brut (Franciacorta).

—97 pts, J.P.
CruPerdu is from an old reclaimed vineyard
that shows its pedigree from the start with
fresh citrus notes, orchard fruits, ginger, jasmine and intense minerality. The palate is firm
and structured and shows the potential for a
long life. Crushed stones give way to candied
orange zest and fresh brioche with a touch of
cream all balanced by stunning acidity. Serendipity Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50

Cayuse 2020 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley).

—96 pts, M.A.
The wine’s blackberry and tangerine aromas
blend with equally compelling notes of espresso, saline and leather. Joining dark raspberries
on the palate are flavors like tart red apples, bergamot tea and peppered bacon. Lemony acidity
with tannins on the plush side. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $94

11
Ceretto 2019 Bricco Rocche (Barolo).
—95 pts, J.P.

Convene By Dan Kosta 2021 Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley).

—97 pts, J.G.
This wine from one of Kosta Browne’s founders
shows just-ripe black cherry and blackberry flavors that are compelling and delicious. Moderate tannins and good acidity lift the fruit across
the palate and through the finish. Beautiful
aromas of black fruits, rose petals and violets
continue to echo. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $62

On the nose, this wine exudes notes of black
cherry, tea and cedar. The palate is very elegant, showcasing fine tannins and a very
pretty and enticing character. The finish reveals
earthy and mineral elements, contributing to
its classy profile. A wine for the ages. Drink
2026–2046. Trinchero Family Estates.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA

Markus Altenburger 2019
Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg).

Gritschenberg

—96 pts, A.Z.
Louis M. Martini 2019 Lot No. 1 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

—96 pts, J.G.
Deep and concentrated blueberries, dark chocolate and espresso flavors fill out this powerful
but polished wine whose firm but gentle tannins will carry it to a long life. It’s the top-ofthe-line Cabernet from the now Cabernet-centric 90-year-old winery. Best from 2027–2040.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $250
Merry Edwards 2021 Georganne Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley).

—94 pts, J.G.
Densely concentrated black fruits take a ride
on well-integrated tannins and good acid balance in this full-bodied, spicy and delicious
wine. The grippy and mouthwatering texture
beautifully lifts the fresh red and black cherries,
black currants and oak spice notes on the palate. Best from 2025–2032.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $70

Smoldering charcoal note opens up this velvety
red, followed by notes of ganache and cassis. Its
core is pretty muscular, as this firms up with the
ripe tannins, begging for a bit more time and patience, but nevertheless, it is still quite impressive at this stage. The wine shows a slight perky
mineral on the distinctive finish. It will benefit
from cellaring, yet with the right meal, it would
be a great companion. Best after 2025. Jenny
and François Selections. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13%
Price: $60

Anne-Sophie Pic & Michel Chapoutier 2021
(Cornas).

—95 pts, A.C.C.
Dense and richly interwoven aromas of juicy
cranberry and kirsch embrace a core of black
plum, blackberry and thyme. The palate is undeniably delicious, with blackberry, rhubarb,
pomegranate and an abundant midpalate of
black olives and cassis served in a terracotta
pot with fresh potting soil. With time in the
glass, the wine evolves with generous silkiness,
elegantly balanced by refreshing acidity. Sera
Fina Cellars. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA

La Ferme du Mont
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape).

2021

Vendage

—95 pts, A.C.C.
Fresh aromas of white peaches, tangerine, lime
zest and acacia fill the glass in this bright expression. The palate is round with flavors of
sliced lemon, pink grapefruit, green pear, fresh
almonds, white flowers and river rocks. Mouthwatering acidity uplifts and provides tremendous energy to this wine. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 53

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

16
Yangarra 2020
(Clarendon).

Hickinbotham Grenache

—95 pts, C.P.
From 800-million-year-old soapstone, sandstone and clay soils in Australia’s premier Grenache region, McLaren Vale, Hickinbotham is
set for the long haul while still being approachable now. It’s reticent when first poured, so give
it some aeration. Once open, there’s oodles
of ripe, fresh strawberry fruit and something a
touch medicinal. Behind that lurks cherry cordial, orange rind, floral and spice notes. The
palate is bright and fruity, with an almost surprising tug of raw, textural tannins. A distinctive
cherry tang lingers on the long finish. Graceful
and silky but with power and ageworthiness.
Jackson Family Wines. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Borgogno 2021 Derthona (Colli Tortonesi).

—94 pts, J.P.
Spiced pear mixed with candied lemon rind,
wildflowers and fresh honey all swirl in concert
in the glass. Each sniff brings out a new element
from the wine: fruit, mineral, flower. The palate
is full in body, capped with apricot and a salty
minerality and a texture that will make you keep
coming back and rue the moment the glass is
finished. Ethica Wines. Hidden Gem.
abv: 14%
Price: $60

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Brut Champagne
Blend (Finger Lakes).

—94 pts, C.P.
This is a smartly made traditional method fizz
from one of the Finger Lakes’ most respected producers. Lovely layers of aromas, from
grilled apple and honeyed pear to florals and
white spice open on the rich, toasty nose. Lively bubbles and racy acidity leap from the glass
at first sip. There’s tangy fruit, textural interest and excellent length. It is, frankly, delicious.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $30

Bien Nacido Estate 2020 Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley).

—94 pts, M.K.
Creamy while detailed aromas of black cherry,
loam and slate make for a very inviting and intriguing nose on this bottling. The palate lands
with a bold richness, carrying fresh and vibrant flavors of black cherry and blackberry in
a hedonistic vintage for this estate. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Ferrari-Carano 2019
(Sonoma County).

Trésor

Red

Blend
Stolen Owl 2019 Malbec (Knights Valley).

—94 pts, J.G.

—96 pts, J.G.

A nicely firm texture holds together vivid black
currants, blackberries and mint in this full-bodied, dark and assertive blend, which is mainly
Cabernet Sauvignon. Ample tannins match the
outstanding ripeness of the fruit for good balance despite the wine’s obvious heft and power. Best from 2027–2037.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $58

So powerful and so gentle at the same time,
this opulent wine from a standout new producer was a small, two-barrel lot. It frames indulgent black figs, blueberries, dark chocolate and
tobacco flavors in posh but firm, ultrafine tannins. Best through 2030. Hidden Gem.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45

Big Table Farm 2021 Cattrall Brothers Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills).

Vigneto Saetti 2021 Rosso Viola (Lambrusco
dell’Emilia).

—96 pts, M.A.

—95 pts, J.P.

I have the highest respect for the Cattrall family and the vineyard they began planting in
1972. This wine honors that legacy, from its
dialed-back alcohol and jitterbug acidity to its
plush tannins and long finish. Look for aromas
and flavors of dried cherries, blackberries, aged
balsamic, bacon fat and lavender in between.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $72

This 100% Salamino is grown organically in the
hills north of Modena—and the wine is the personification of the Saetti family’s dedication to
their craft. Aromas of blackberries, mulberries
and tamarind share the glass with violets, dried
roses and wild herbs. The palate is lush and
vibrant at the same time with rich ripe blackhued fruits balanced with crunchy acidity. The
wine has a long and refined finish highlighted
by the well-crafted perlage. Louis/Dressner Selections. Hidden Gem.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $24

Brooks 2019 Bois Joli Riesling (Eola-Amity
Hills).

—95 pts, M.A.
If you can’t bring yourself to love this medium-dry Riesling, you need to move along to
the next grape. Its primary aromas of apricots, Meyer lemons and thyme dance nicely
with traces of petrol and earthy petrichor. The
lemon curd, white tea, guava and tonic-water
flavors are complemented by a wee bit of talc.
The Bois Joli’s acidity will impress even the
most jaded palate. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $28

29
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2016
Eroica Single Berry Select Riesling (Columbia
Valley).

—95 pts, M.A.
I don’t know whether to write a tasting note or
a poem. This rich, golden-hued dessert wine
is viscous enough to float a pearl, with searing
acidity that keeps it from crossing over to cloying. Honeycomb, orange blossom and bergamot aromas envelop lemon and yellow apple
scents. Mouthfilling flavors of orange marmalade, clover honey and pine needles go on forever. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 8%
Price: $200/375 ml

Domaine Delaporte 2020 La Côte d’Amigny
(Sancerre).

—95 pts, R.V.
This limited-production wine comes from a
small parcel of old vines in Chavignol. It is ripe
and dense, balancing white fruits and intense,
tangy acidity. The wine is just ready to drink
but will be better from 2024. Vineyard Brands.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA

27
Achaval-Ferrer 2018 Finca Altamira Malbec
(Uco Valley).

—95 pts, J.V.
An aromatic nose of red and black fruit followed
by rosemary transports you to Mendoza. There
is a delicious hint of licorice. Tamed by wood aging, this elegant wine has vigorous acidity and
chalky tannins that are typical from Altamira.
A good balance of fruit and herbs offers cherry
and blackberry mixed with bay leaf and rosemary on the palate. It finishes with cherry and
chocolate. Stoli Group USA. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
Liminal 2021 High Canyon Series WeatherEye
Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain).

—96 pts, M.A.
There’s an earthy aroma here that combines
loam and porcini mushrooms. The earthiness is complemented by the sweet aromas of
blackberries and figs. The palate is the heart of
darkness, with black cherry, black coffee and
dark chocolate flavors and a smooth texture.
Lemony acidity and silky tannins are nicely
matched. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85

ny, which makes this white a pleasure to drink
now, but also makes it a great wine to cellar.
Drink now–2040. Winebow Imports. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $140

Prager 2021 Ried Zwerithaler Kammergut
Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau).

Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2020
Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis).

—94 pts, A.C.C.
Gentle aromas of lemon verbena, fresh pears,
and melon intertwine with baby’s breath, acacia, salty ocean breeze and stone. An abundance of white peach, lemongrass, chervil,
fresh hay, broken seashell and flaky sea salt
coats the palate. A delicious expression with
intense minerality and dry extract that lingers
on the long finish. Banville Wine Merchants.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $63

31
Vietti 2019 Lazzarito (Barolo).

—94 pts, J.P.
This is the Barolo we have been looking for!
Black cherry, warmed spices, crushed stone
and dried herbs flow from the glass. The palate
is firm and states its desire to take some time
in the cellar. The core of fruit is present but
reticent while the black tea, anise, pepper and
mineral edge are present but want more time.
Drink 2028–2045. Dalla Terra Winery Direct.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA

—95 pts, A.Z.
This blockbuster Grüner is rich and expressive, yet incredibly vivacious and graceful.
Aromas and flavors of orchard and stone fruit
mingle at the core, framed by floral notes and
a hint of white pepper. Its intense acidity cuts
through the meaty profile, bringing out harmo-

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 55

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

Johannes Zillinger 2019 Numen Grüner
Veltliner (Niederösterreich).

—95 pts, A.Z.
Rich yellow and slightly cloudy in appearance,
this white features a generous core of durian,
Mirabelle plum and chamomile flavors, underscored by bracing acidity and corduroy-like
texture. This Grüner is multilayered and complex with elegant acidity and a cool-climate
profile. Drink now–2032. Field Blend Selections. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $55

Saints Hills 2021 Le Chiffre Chardonnay
(Istria).

—94 pts, M.D.

Straw-colored in the glass, this wine has a
bouquet of nectarine, lemon zest and almond
blossom. It is full in the mouth, with bold acidity and flavors of pineapple, lemon tart, vanilla
and peach. A bright note of grapefruit washes
over the finish. Massanois Imports.
abv: 13%
Price: $55

Dossier 2021 Flagship Index Bordeaux-style
Red Blend (Columbia Valley).

—96 pts, M.A.
The Flagship Index is a devastatingly dark Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-driven blend with
aromas of black- and blueberries, fennel and a
trace of brisket. The wine’s black cherry compote, orange peel and Assam tea flavors are
supported by sturdy tannins and frisky acidity.
Serve with lamb chops and any Nick Cave album. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $110

Ernest 2020 Edaphos Alder Springs
Vineyard Petite Arvine (Mendocino County).

—95 pts, S.B.
Pertinace 2020 Marcarini (Barbaresco).

—94 pts, J.P.
Ripe raspberry aromas leap from the glass of
this fleshy and fruit-forward wine with wildflowers and savory spice notes quickly following. The superfine palate is refined with
fresh wild cherries spiked with hints of anise
and clove, finishing with a mineral edge. Drink
2025–2035. Freixenet Mionetto USA. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Petite Arvine, a white grape originating from the
Swiss region of Valais, is a rarity in the U.S. What
a discovery it is—richly hued with a deep golden
yellow and an intensity of aromas and flavors to
match: lemon, lime, ripe yellow apple and peach,
dewy grass, chamomile, nasturtium leaf and
nectar, and a subtle blanched almond nuttiness
in the back-palate. Lovely now on its own, versatile enough to pair with a variety of dishes, but
this is an example of a white wine that can also
age with elegance and grace. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $42

34
Carol Shelton 2020
(Russian River Valley).

Albini

Terrevive NV Stiolorosso (Emilia).

—96 pts, J.P.
Established in 2008, Terrevive is not just a vine
grower but also an integrated farm that creates
biodiversity that makes healthier grapes and
people. The Stiolorosso has aromas of blackberry, cherry and white pepper. The palate is
mouthfilling and supremely structured, balanced between a deep core of black fruits and
intriguing savory herbs and spice, finishing with
crisp acidity and superfine bubbles. Rosenthal
Estate. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $35

Zinfandel

—96 pts, J.G.
With the grip of a Nebbiolo and the herbal
spice of a Sangiovese, this captivating wine
brings an Italian flair to California Zinfandel.
Moderate tannins brace vivid raspberry, black
cherry and cranberry flavors while fresh thyme
and dried grass notes add complexity. Best
from 2025-2032. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Pride Mountain 2021 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley).

Melville 2021 Estate Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills).

—95 pts, J.G.

—96 pts, M.K.

Subtle baking spice and oak-toast aromas
lead to a silky smooth palate alive with nuances of white peaches, vanilla bean, cream and
poached pears. The wine is luscious but balanced, quiet on the first sip and then growing
in flavor impact with each repeated taste. Best
from 2026–2036. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48

This is cool-climate Syrah at its finest, full of
energy, umami and spice. Concentrated aromas of boysenberry and white and black pepper make a juicy nose. The palate wraps generous, complex flavors of berry, rosemary and
clove into a grippy package. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $38

41
Brendel 2020 Young Leon Frizzante Rosé
Sparkling Blend (Napa Valley).

and are joined by dark red berry flavors. The
whole package is wrapped up in polished tannins and well-moderated acidity that linger on
the tongue and gums. Gonzalez Byass USA.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

48
Nino Negri 2018 Vigna Fracia (Valtellina
Superiore Valgella).

—92 pts, J.G.

—95 pts, J.P.

A light amber-pink color leads to an appetizing, bone-dry palate laced with apricot, almond and tangy cherry flavors. Made from Grignolino grapes, the wine is crisp, light, mouthwatering and built for pairing with food—anything from caviar to potato chips to tuna tartare. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11%
Price: $38

This wine opens with aromas of warmed
strawberries, violet, rosemary and forest floor.
The palate achieves a near-perfect balance
between fruit and savory notes, each in harmony. Elegant tannins and lifted acidity saunter
to the finish, where the wine lingers in a contemplative manner. Supple and so pretty. Drink
now–2035. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
Hidden Gem.
abv: 14%
Price: $72

44
Oremus 2019 Petracs Single-Vineyard Dry
Furmint (Tokaj).

—94 pts, M.D.
This wine offers a bouquet of pineapple, green
apple and grated ginger. The ginger note is apparent on the palate as well, along with carambola, nectarine, lavender and orange zest flavors that culminate in a radiant finish. Europvin
USA. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $78

45
Anselmo Mendes 2021 Curtimenta (Vinho
Verde).

—94 pts, R.V.

Llopart 2011 Original 1887 Brut Nature (Cava).

—95 pts, M.D.
Deep straw in color and with a steady column
of bubbles, this sparkler features a bouquet
of dried apricot, caramelized pineapple and
roasted almonds. A strong vein of acidity backs
golden currant, caramelized pineapple, croissant, toffee and lemon blossom flavors that
coalesce in a surprisingly vivid, lingering finish.
Jorge Ordóñez Selections. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $100

The wine is maturing with ripe white fruits and
a hint of toastiness. Aged in wood, it shows the
ability of Alvarinho to take to barrel aging. The
result is a rich wine that still has a fresh edge.
Drink now. Grape2Glass. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30

Soter 2019 Mineral Springs Brut Rosé
Sparkling Blend (Yamhill-Carlton).

—95 pts, M.A.
This pink sparkling wine is 81% Pinot Noir, 19%
Chardonnay and 100% satisfying. The show
begins with energetic bubbles delivering aromas of raspberry sorbet and fresh peach slices
served on a stroopwafel. The flavors are an
equally compelling mix of framboise, brioche
and crushed walnuts, with a texture as brisk as
a winter walk. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $75

46
Gundlach
Bundschu
2021
Cabernet
Sauvignon-Malbec (Sonoma Valley).

—95 pts, J.G.

Deep, concentrated and tannic, this wine is
also elegant, showing finesse in the velvety
tannins, plush black currants and black cherries, all layered in oak spices of vanilla, cocoa,
toast and mint. The wine is quietly powerful
and should improve with some age. Best from
2025–2032. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Thistledown 2021 Thorny Devil Old Vine
Grenache (McLaren Vale).

—94 pts, C.P.
Elegance and ease are the name of the game
on this silky, midweight Grenache. Succulent
cherry and blueberry, with vanilla, florals and
a gentle spice make for a nose you could dive
into. There’s lovely freshness to the slinky palate. It’s tugged gently by savory, sand-textured
tannins. A sexy wine right now, it could gain savory complexity over the next few years. The
best part? It’s stellar bang for buck. Southern
Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $25

Casado Morales 2018 Alonso López de
Familia Crianza (Rioja).

—94 pts, M.D.
Beronia 2015 Gran Reserva (Rioja).

—94 pts, M.D.
Dark violet-red in the glass, this wine has a
bouquet of blackberry, milk chocolate and butterscotch. Spicy clove and eucalyptus with
touches of dark chocolate open on the palate

This dark garnet-colored wine offers a bouquet
of black currant, anisette and sage. Blackberry,
cassis, dark chocolate, violet and clove flavors
are joined by a note of marjoram. Tannins start
out feather light, slowly fill the palate, and linger for a while. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%

Tablas Creek 2021 Esprit Blanc de Tablas
Rhône-style White Blend (Adelaida District).

—94 pts, M.K.
As the importer of so many Rhône varieties,
it’s no surprise that Tablas Creek manages
blends like few other domestic producers. This
combination of 70% Roussanne, 17% Picpoul
Blanc, 10% Grenache, 2% Bourboulenc and 1%

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 57

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023
Clairette Blanche shows clean nectarine and
apricot aromas on the nose, with a light nuttiness. The palate’s chalky texture offers creamy
flavors of cashew milk and apple blossoms.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $60

subtle notes of cranberry and tart cherry. Fruit
flavors are accented by light notes of nutmeg,
cumin, black pepper and dried herbs. It’s flavorful and has a mineral texture and focused acidity. Gonzalez Byass USA. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $150

Salwey 2019 GG Grauburgunder (Baden).

—94 pts, A.Z.
There is beautiful definition and balance to this
white with a pinkish hue. The palate offers violet, flint, quince and pear flavors on a firm, fullbodied structure, while the acidity cuts through
providing balance and elegance. The finish
features a plethora of spices. This is only starting to unravel and will show its best after 2025.
The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $95

Vigna

—93 pts, R.V.

Barboursville Vineyards 2019 Octagon
Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Virginia).

53
Fontanafredda 2019
Lazzarito (Barolo).

Château de Suronde 2018 Grand Cru (Quarts
de Chaume).
A supersweet wine from the small Quarts de
Chaume appellation. It maintains a fine line of
freshness and bright edge amid its rich, densely
sweet, botrytis-flavor-filled palate. Drink now.
Serge Doré Selections. Hidden Gem.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $80/500 ml

—92 pts, C.W.C.
La

Delizia

—94 pts, J.P.
Wild raspberries, fresh wildflowers and herbs
spill from the glass of this elegant Barolo. The
palate offers crushed cherry notes accented by
savory herbs, spice, sweet tobacco and anise
finishing with elegant but youthful tannins that
will soften with age. Drink 2028–2040. Taub
Family Selections. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $175

54
Trapiche 2020 Iscay Malbec-Cabernet Franc
(Mendoza).

—93 pts, J.V.
This wine has an aromatic nose, with prominent oak spices. The wine’s tannic structure
supports plenty of strawberry, blackberry and
blueberry flavors accented by nutmeg and cinnamon. Notes of herbs and black fruit mingle in
the lasting finish. Drink now–2033. WX Brands.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $110

55
Neyen 2019 Espíritu de Apalta Malbec
(Apalta).

—93 pts, J.V.
This is deliciously spicy and savory. The nose
opens with light notes of aniseed, cumin and
incense, joining bay leaf and cherry. The palate
is fresh and steady with firm tannins holding

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Dark garnet in the glass opens up with dark
fruits of black cherries, sun-dried tomatoes
and dried parsley. The palate brings those plus
some hints of celery leaf. Integrated tannins
make for a wine that can be drunk now or held
for years to come. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65

57
Rotari 2018 Metodo Classico Blanc de
Blancs Extra Brut (Trento).

—93 pts, J.P.
Enticing aromas of baked apples, freshly baked
croissants, ginger and white flowers pour from
the glass of this mountain-grown sparkling
wine. The pristine palate lifts as the crisp acidity pops on the palate, balancing the rich orchard fruit, lemon curd and creamy texture of
the wine that finishes with a flinty minerality
with a fine and elegant peralage. Prestige Wine
Imports. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30

Kunde 2021
Valley).

Estate Zinfandel (Sonoma

—93 pts, J.G.
Absolutely delicious, fruity and mouth-coating, this full-bodied and gentle-textured wine
is easy to drink and enjoy on its own or with
cheesy, meaty proteins. The wine pours out
pure raspberries, blackberries and plum jam
flavors on a broad texture backed by light tannins. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $22

Sandrone 2021 (Barbera d’Alba).

—93 pts, J.P.
Enticing aromas of tart plums, boysenberries
and wildflowers lift from the glass of this energetic and singular Barbera. The fleshy palate
is driven by tart blue and black fruits that yield
mixed spices and mouthwatering acidity on the
finish. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $53

Quinta de la Rosa 2021 Colheita Tawny
(Port).

—93 pts, R.V.
A young Colheita Tawny that shows thr rich
side of Port. Density and concentration are
a major element in this beautiful expression.
Bottled from barrel, the wine will not age further, so drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’
Choice.

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023
abv: 19.5%

Price: $40

Alheit 2021 Hereafter Here Chenin Blanc
(Western Cape).

Poças 2018 Fora de Série French Connection
(Douro).

—92 pts, J.V.

—93 pts, R.V.
Made from a field blend of old vines, this is a
rich and densely textured wine. It is spiced with
tannins and wood aging that bring out the furit
ripeness and structure. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Hidden Gem.
abv: 14%
Price: $55

63
Naveran 2021 Perles Blanques (Cava).

—93 pts, M.D.
Pale yellow in the glass, this energetic sparkler
has a bouquet of yellow plum, white chocolate and jasmine. Zesty flavors of Bartlett pear,
pink grapefruit, croissant and caramelized nuts
wind down to a Valencia orange-scented finish.
Olé & Obrigado. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45

64
Fournier Père et Fils 2022 Les Monts Damnés
(Sancerre).

—93 pts, R.S.
Chalky minerality leaps out on the nose of this
Sancerre, followed by green plum, green apple
and lime citrus. On the palate the wine is steely
with wet stone and hints of white peach on the
long finish. This Sancerre would pair wonderfully with mussels, clams, scallops and crustaceans of any sort. David Milligan Selections.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45

Simonsig 2019 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch).

Delicate citrus aromas take the lead, supported
by herbs and vanilla bean. Flavors of baking
spices are integrated and persistent on the medium-weight palate. It has layers of grapefruit,
lime and hints of mint lifted by excellent acidity. This is a delicious, structured Chenin Blanc.
Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $41

—92 pts, J.V.
This is a well-structured red that has depth
and nice acidity. The nose is aromatic, offering leather, spices and raspberries followed by
notes of smoke. A firm structure holds the palate. Tart cherry, plum, hints of paprika, black
pepper, cinnamon and smoke lead to a flavorful finish. Drink now through 2031. Quintessential. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48

67
Domaine Serene 2020 Rockblock Viognier
(Applegate Valley).

70
Pyros
2021
Appellation
(Pedernal Valley).

—91 pts, J.V.
Coming from San Juan, Argentina’s secondlargest wine-producing region, this white offers
delicate notes of white flowers, lime and herbs.
A light note of honey adds to its complexity. The
mineral-textured palate has weight and shows
white peach, lime and chamomile that extend
to the lingering finish. Vigorous acidity balances
it all out. Taub Family Selections. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13%
Price: $27

—91 pts, M.A.
A delightfully medium-bodied, barrel-aged
Viognier is a good thing to discover. Its rich,
thick aromas range from honeydew and honeysuckle to butter pecan ice cream and orange
peels. Dense flavors like lemon tarts and candied tangerines are balanced by surprisingly elevated acidity. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45

68
Daou 2022
Robles).

Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso

71
Paix Sur Terre 2022 Old Oak Vineyard
Zinfandel (Paso Robles Willow Creek District).

—94 pts, M.K.
Ryan Pease is exploring a fresh style of Zinfandel in this bottling. It opens with spicy red
fruit on the nose, offering cinnamon and cherry elements. There’s just enough tension to
the palate, where mace, more cinnamon and
peppery spices zip through the red-fruit flavors. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

—91 pts, M.K.
Freemark Abbey 2021 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley).

—93 pts, J.G.
Tempting spicy, earthy, toasted oak aromas
lead to densely layered pears, almonds, wood
char and crème brûlée flavors that fill the palate and echo for minutes on the finish. The
wine is full-bodied, almost thick in texture and
powerful in flavor.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

It’s rather amazing that the Daou brothers can
produce a formidable Cab that is this accessible at such a young age. The palate combines
the rich blackberry sauce with espresso bean
and cocoa, as lingering, sappy tannins extend
through the finish. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Chardonnay

72
Lieb 2019 Estate Teroldego-Lagrein (North
Fork of Long Island).

—92 pts, C.P.
True to its Northern Italian varietal roots, this
is a spice-and-herb-laced red. It’s packed with
notes of tangy black cherry, currant and plum
fruit, backed by coffee, iodine and savory herbs.
The palate brings bracing acidity and powerful, sinewy tannins, and cherry and spice that
charge through to the long finish. Sip with spicy
chorizo. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $35

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THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

Borgoluce 2021 Rive di Collalto Extra Brut
(Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).

Beckmen 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa
Ynez Valley).

—92 pts, J.P.

—93 pts, M.K.

Grown high in the hills of Valdobbiadene on
very chalky soils, this wine proves that not all
Prosecco are the same. Lifted aromas of fresh
green apples, lemon zest, crushed chalk and
heady white-flowers entice the nose. The cool,
crisp palate rushes with a mixture of orchard
fruits and blanched almonds and finishing with
persistent minerality and fresh acidity. The
Sorting Table. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $32

This bottling manages to pack in a riper side
of Cab than is usually seen in Santa Barbara
County, where an herbaceous quality tends to
appear. It starts with creamy aromas of purple
fruit before landing on a palate full of cassis and
violet. Black pepper and polished tannins complete the package. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40

77
Zuccardi 2019 Tito Malbec-Cabernet Franc
(Paraje Altamira).

Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Brut
Sparkling Blend (Niagara Peninsula).

—92 pts, M.A.
This traditional method blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir has brilliant aromas of
green apple, strawberry sorbet and warm Hawaiian sweet bread. Crisp acidity and frothy bubbles escort flavors like peach, lemon and honeycomb. Henry Of Pelham Winery. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $24

—93 pts, J.V.
This winery in the heart of Uco Valley has produced a full-bodied and polished blend of
85% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Franc. The
nose reveals aromas of herbs and wet stones
and introduces a balanced palate. Plum, blackberry and raspberry join notes of jarilla and
rosemary. It’s structured, with a mineral texture
and lively acidity. Drink now–2030. Winesellers,
Ltd. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Nieto Senetiner 2019 Don Nicanor Barrel
Select Malbec (Uco Valley).

—92 pts, J.V.
Bright and juicy, this Malbec opens with aromas of dried herbs. Rosemary and thyme lend
savory notes to the palate, while crunchy acidity adds freshness. Plum, cranberry, blueberry
and tobacco join earthy flavors. Tannins are
soft but firm, shaping a good structure. Foley
Family Wines. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15%
Price: $30

75
Salcheto 2019 (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

El Enemigo 2020 Sémillon (Agrelo).

—92 pts, J.V.
Sémillion old vines are being rescued in Argentina to make high-end wines with complexity.
This is the case of this white from 50-year-old
vines in Luján de Cuyo with a small percentage aged under flor. The nose shows subtle
almond and acacia aromas that complement
its citrus and saline notes. The medium-weight
palate offers almond, grapefruit, pear and elevated acidity, finishing with light smoky notes.
Winebow Imports. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25

81
Domaine du Vieux Bourg 2020 Au Bois
Retour (Chénas).

—93 pts, R.S.
This Chénas combines well-integrated black
fruit with supportive herbal streaks. Ruby in
color, this wine has a perfumed nose of alpine
strawberry, cranberry, boysenberry, dried oak,
black raspberry, violet and forest floor. The palate is focused on the nose and complex with
its supple mouthfeel filled with expressive
black tea notes toward the back palate and
through to the long finish. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $32

—92 pts, D.C.
The nose is structured around notes of strawberry and raspberry, with balanced undertones
of both delicate rose petals and sharp gunpowder. The berries get denser and sweeter
on the palate, which sets up an indulgent milk
chocolate finish, while chalky tannins contrast
that plushness. A reminder of how much pleasure can be derived from Vino Nobile. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $30

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

79
Moulin de la Roque 2022 Les Hauts de Vallon
(Bandol).

—92 pts, R.V.

Educated Guess 2021 Merlot (Napa Valley).

This Bandol, with its ripe Mourvèdre, is full
of red-berry fruits and spice. The wine is rich,
complex and ready to drink now. Marchetti Co.
Editors’ Choice.
Price: $24
abv: 13%

—93 pts, J.G.
Voluptuous, deep and full, this gorgeous wine
packs plenty of red and black fruits in moderate tannins, lacing them with orange zest,
graphite and espresso for complexity and interest. Supple enough to drink young. Best from
2026. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

Véronique
Günther-Chereau
2017
Monnières-Saint Fiacre Cru Communal
(Muscadet Sèvre et Maine).

—93 pts, R.S.
This is an elegant expression of Muscadet.
Lemon-gold in color, the wine has a perfumed
nose of ripe Fuji apple, pear, dried pineapple,
white peach and blossom. Hints of wet stone
and bread dough reveal themselves on the palate through to the finish. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $25

—92 pts, J.V.

84
Emilio Vada 2022 Camp Bianc (Moscato
d’Asti).

—93 pts, J.P.
This superfresh Moscato d’Asti pops out of the
glass with fresh wildflowers, lemon candy and
juicy nectarine. The fleshly palate is like biting
into a superripe peach sprinkled with thyme
while holding flowers. Yum! Vinity Wine Company. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 5%
Price: $25

Domaine

2022

Godello

—92 pts, M.D.
Pale yellow to the eye, this wine has honeydew
melon, apricot and smoke aromas. Vivid peach
and yellow plum flavors are joined by vanilla
bean, bergamot flower and river rock notes.
The vibrant finish is marked with a splash of
lemon-lime sorbet. Lovemark Advanced Trading Holding LLC. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13%
Price: $45

—92 pts, R.V.
Grand

—93 pts, A.C.C.
This is a powerful blend of 65% Grenache,
20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah. The wine is
so lively upon opening that it will surely pique
curiosity among enthusiasts. An intense core
of blackberries, sunbaked plums and touch of
wild mint coats the palate. Natural high-altitude acidity helps draw a long, dark-fruited finish, with salinity, fine gritty tannins and clove.
Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15%
Price: $35

86
Château Petit Boyer 2021 Le Corbeau et le
Renard (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux).

—92 pts, R.V.
This is a full, rich wine with firm tannins set
against the wood-aging flavors. It has density
and concentration, ripe blackberry flavors and
promises a fine future. Drink from 2025. W. Direct. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

The coastal Leyda Valley imprints notes of salinity on this lovely expression of Pinot Noir.
It’s balanced, with delicate aromas of black
tea, subtle black pepper and a hint of hibiscus. There is a savory blend of fruit and herbs
on the mouth. Ripe raspberry, cranberry, spices
and sage meet on the midpalate. VSPT USA.
Hidden Gem.
abv: 14%
Price: $33

Bodegas
Godeval
(Valdeorras).

Quinta da Pacheca 2021 Reserva Vinhas
Velhas Douro).

85
Pierre Amadieu 2019
Romane (Gigondas).

Viña Leyda 2022 Lot 21 Pinot Noir (Leyda
Valley).

A rich, spicy wine, this is full of black fruits and
youthful acidity. It is dense and ripe with blackberry flavors and the great concentration from
old vines. Drink from 2025. Brands of Portugal.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25

Maison L’Envoyé 2021 Chateau
Monopole Gamay Noir (Fleurie).

Vivier

—92 pts, R.S.
Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2018 Touriga
Nacional - Petit Verdot (Alentejano).

—92 pts, R.V.
This is an unusual and fine blend. Touriga Nacional meets Petit Verdot and the result is a
deep and brooding red, rich with tannins, black
and blue fruits, leading toward a savory finish.
Drink the wine from 2024. MS Walker. Hidden
Gem.
abv: 15%
Price: $35

This Fleurie has a distinctive aroma silhouette
that immediately communicates something
good is about to happen in your glass. Black
raspberry leaps out on the nose followed by
black plum, black tea, forest floor, red cherry
and rosehip. On the palate well-integrated
black fruit is in lockstep with ripe tannin. Old
Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $21

perfect moments
are tailor-made

92
POINTS
MAY 2022

Imported by

Nominated Importer of the Year

2023 NOMINEE

www.bgpl-usa.com

THE ENTHUSIAST 100 I 2023

Manzanos 2021 111 (Rioja).

Raats Family 2019 Dolomite Cabernet Franc
(Stellenbosch).

—91 pts, M.D.
In this wine, aromas of black cherry, black currant and licorice prepare the palate for flavors
of Chambord, cherry preserves, anisette and
violet. Silky tannins dissolve into a long, spicy
finish. W. Direct. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24

—90 pts, J.V.
The winery specializes in Chenin Blanc and
Cabernet Franc. This well-crafted red is a result
of that work. Aromas of cherry, mint and a light
note of licorice rise from the glass. It’s fresh
and savory, with herbs balancing sweet notes
of berries. It has vigorous acidity and gripping
tannins providing a good structure. Drink now–
2029. Cape Classics. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21

Le Garenne 2021 (Sancerre).

—92 pts, R.S.
Aromatic and characterful with pleasing herbal
notes, this Sancerre has a nose of golden apple, Asian pear, jasmine tea and lemon-citrus
zest. Playful fruit and herbal notes dot back
and forth on your palate, leaving you wanting
more. Asgram LLC. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $35

Morandé 2019 Morandé Adventure Tirazis
Syrah (Casablanca Valley).

Gilles Copéret 2022 (Morgon).

—92 pts, R.S.
Deep purple in color, this wine has an aromatic
nose of blackberry, blueberry and hints of hibiscus. This vintage shows Morgon’s strength
and aging potential in a way that is accessible now but can be enjoyed later. Robust fruit
makes this wine an excellent partner with beef,
and heavier dishes. This is a beautiful Morgon! Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $21

94
Keswick
Vineyards
(Monticello).

2021

—91 pts, J.V.
This is a structured but elegant Syrah grown in
a maritime influence climate. The nose is subtle with light notes of salt, cranberry and black
olive. The flavor intensity of spices and herbs
match that of the fruit on the vigorous palate.
Cherries and mulberries and a whisper of dark
chocolate and bay leaf are backed by fine tannins and excellent acidity. International Wine
And Spirits. Hidden Gem.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32

97
Mary Taylor
(Juliénas).

2019

Marine

Pietro Beconcini 2021 Fresco di Nero, Rosé
of Tempranillo (Toscana).

—90 pts, D.C.
A rare example of a 100% Tempranillo rosato
produced in Italy, this wine has a nose of cranberry iced tea and cooked strawberries. The
palate suggests raspberries, wet slate and red
pepper. Tension between savoriness and fruit
holds through a substantial finish. Savorian Inc.
Hidden Gem.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25

100

Descombe

—91 pts, R.S.
Deep ruby in color, this wine has a perfumed
nose of raspberry, black tea and red currant
with a hint of blueberry. Slightly grippy tannin
affords added texture with some savory notes
on the back palate. This Juliénas tends toward
ripe summer fruit tempered by forest floor.
Mary Taylor Wine. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32

Sipwell 2021 Tiny
Albariño (Lodi).

Victories

Sparkling

—90 pts, M.K.
This canned wine clicks the right buttons, offering baked apple and dough aromas on the nose.
There’s ample mousse to the sip, where apple
and pear flavors prove crisp. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $6/250 ml

Chardonnay

—91 pts, C.W.C.
Great memories of Juicy Fruit bubble gum lead
to ripe pear and yellow apples. Chamomile tea
with hints of cinnamon and vanilla lead the
way to a surprisingly robust acid. This is a very
versatile wine; the acid can hold up to hearty
and delicate dishes. Hidden Gem.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35

Visit wineenthusiast.com/Enthusiast1002023 to download a PDF of the list.
66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

POINTS

•

R’ S C H

POINTS

•

EDIT

A Formula for Success

W A RD

POINTS

93
POINTS

*All reviews are for 2021 Vintage, December 2023.

WINE ENTHUSIAST

rootsrundeep.com

707-945-1045

@rootsrundeepwinery

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@rootsrundeepwinery

Long known for its red wine reputation, the future
of this historic region may lie in its whites.

This

may shock a
fair number of
readers: One
of the greatest
wines in Bordeaux is a dry white. It is
made by first growth Château Haut-Brion.
Quantities are small, as these wines are
rare. And if or when you can even find
them, they can be quite expensive. The
2014 vintage received a 100-point score
from Wine Enthusiast; previous years have
regularly achieved 97 points or more.

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Sense of Place
What is it that makes this white Bordeaux, and many
others, so impressive? “It is balanced, aromatic,
complex and, above all, marked by its terroir,” says
Fabien Teitgen, managing director at Château Smith
Haut Lafitte, also in the Pessac-Léognan, and adds
that, when done right, these wines have a strong
identity and an ability to age.
Pessac-Léognan is perhaps the most renowned
appellation for dry white wines in the Bordeaux
region. Along with neighboring Graves, it forms the
oldest vineyard region of Bordeaux, dating back to
Roman times. But the quantity of white wine that
comes out of the region is small compared with the
reds from the same estates.
This notion goes back to Teitgen’s comment
about terroir: There is only so much vineyard land in
Pessac-Léognan with the idyllic mix of clay and limestone soils that suit white varieties. Thus, only 20%
of production is dedicated to white winemaking.
And looking at Bordeaux as a whole, according
to the Bordeaux Wine Council, only 10% of all wine
produced is white. This, then, is why Bordeaux is
known as a red wine region. But until the 1970s, says
Philippe Bascaules, managing director of first growth
Château Margaux, “white vines were in the majority
in the whole region.” Red varieties eventually took
over because there was more money in red wine sales.
That is a shame, comments Bascaules, because while
Bordeaux of course makes great reds, it also makes
many that “are mediocre,” because in an effort to
increase production, many vines were planted on land
more suited to white varieties.

White Blends or Single Varietal
White Bordeaux is typically a blend. Sauvignon Blanc
and Sémillon are the principal varieties while Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris play small, but increasingly important, roles, bringing in perfumey notes.
Stephen Carrier, winemaker at Château de Fieuzal in
Pessac-Léognan calls Sauvignon Blanc “the vertebral
column of the blend with its acidity and freshness,”
while Sémillon “brings roundness and elegance.”
Specific to Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc has notable
tropical fruits that are never part of the more steely
expressions of Sancerre.
Many pure Sauvignon Blanc wines are made in
the most productive white wine region: the Entre-

Deux-Mers, from which comes the good value allied
to quality that makes it a fertile area for bargains.
This is a naturally cooler area, ideally situated
among hills and valleys between the Garonne and
Dordogne rivers. Some of the best white wines come
from the heart of this region, in a band that passes
eastward from Créon, at a relatively high altitude
and with idyllic chalky soils. Estates making fine
white wines here include Château Thieuley, Château
Roquefort and Château Tour de Mirambeau. Some of
these wines go by the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation,
while others simply are Bordeaux Blanc, an appellation that, for the moment, also includes the white
wines from the Médoc (although an appellation for
white Médoc was made in 2023).

Oak Influence
Although relying on freshness, some of these wines
also have oak aging, such as those from PessacLéognan and the Médoc. It’s an important issue
for some producers. Monique Bonnet, owner of
Château Suau near Cadillac in the Entre-Deux-Mers,
believes that “it is best for powerful wines possibly
with a proportion of Sémillon and made for aging.”
Bascaules at Château Margaux believes “wood adds
complexity, density and weight to the wine,” while
Teitgen at Smith Haut Lafitte cautions that overenthusiastic use of wood is dangerous: “It is important to make sure the wood is behind the wine.”
The judicious use of wood was one of the many
legacies of Denis Dubourdieu, professor of oenology
at the University of Bordeaux. His family have been
wine producers in Bordeaux since 1794 and own
Clos Floridène in Graves, Château Reynon in EntreDeux-Mers and Château Doisy-Daëne in Barsac. He
brought white Bordeaux into a modern era, creating
aromas and expressions that were unthought-of by
using many Burgundian techniques for white wine,
including barrel aging with new and once-used
barrels, lees stirring, extended barrel aging—all techniques that bring richness and aging ability. For this,
the French newspaper Le Monde named Dubourdieu
“the Pope of white wine.”
It is a pity there is not more white Bordeaux—but
there is a desire for it. Monique Bonnet of Château
Suau comments, “We’ve just planted more Sauvignon
Blanc. We believe that there is a market for dry white
Bordeaux wines, which are so accessible and still too
little known.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

ROGER VOSS

TO M A R E N A
WINE ENTHUSIAST | 69

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

When done right,
these wines have a
strong identity and
an ability to age.

Whether searching for a cellarstasher or a drink-me-now sipper,
here are a few BDX whites spanning
the style and price spectrum.

Château Pape Clément 2018 PessacLéognan. Always high on the richness

scale, this estate’s white wine is vibrant
with fresh white fruits, integrated oak and a
tight texture that begs for aging.
abv: 14%

Price: $180

Château la Louvère 2018 PessacLéognan. From one of several estates

owned by the Lurton family in PessacLéognan, this wine is floral, ripe and packed
with a tangy citrus acidity. Wood aging has
smoothed the tight, mineral texture, truly
highlighting the fruitfulness.
abv: 14%

Price: $52

Clos Floridène 2021 Graves. A full, ripe

wine, this offers great acidity and ripe
white fruits in balance. The wine is spicy,
full of fruitiness and promise, finishing with a
swath of freshness.

abv: 12.5%

Price: $26

Château de Fontenille 2021 Entre-DeuxMers. The wine is aromatic with ripe

herbal flavors. The acidity is tangy,
the wine is spicy with a touch of pepper.
Green fruits balance the acidity with a zingy
character.
abv: 13%

Price: $16

Château Thieuley, 2022 Bordeaux
Blanc. A ripe wine, this has tropical

fruits freshened with kiwi. It is smooth
and spicy, with plenty of perfumed richness at
the end. Drink now.

abv: 13%

Price: $16

Château Lestrille 2021 Entre-DeuxMers. The wine is spicy, full of white

fruits and brightly delicious. There is a
creamy side to this fine wine, giving richness
from the Sauvignon Gris and Muscadelle. The
wine is richly textured, ready to drink now.
abv: 12.5%

Price: $15

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 71

THE
ISN’T
In Jerez, after decades of declining Sherry
popularity, radical change is coming.
BY
JASON WILSON

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

I’ve

been to Jerez de la Frontera
numerous times, mostly to
visit the cavernous cellars
filled floor-to-ceiling with
casks of Sherry. Those visits to the famed
Sherry houses have always been about
the barrel. On every tour, there’s always a
cutaway view of a barrel, demonstrating the
fortified fino or manzanilla Sherry resting
quietly under a blanket of flor. Tastings
are always from the barrel, conducted by
someone wielding a whip-like venencia with
a flourish. Talk is dominated by discussions
of the traditional solera system, how many
years the Sherry stays in the barrel, how
the wine is fortified or the differences of
biological versus oxidative aging. Here’s
what’s rarely discussed: grapes, vines,
agriculture. In all my years of visiting Jerez,
I’d never once been invited into a vineyard.
That changed this past spring, when I
found myself walking through several top
pagos (as vineyards are called in Jerez) with
a new wave of Sherry producers in Jerez—
some of whom have formed a group called
Territorio Albariza. This new generation sets
itself in opposition to what they call “the
blending culture” of the big Sherry houses,
which they insist too often relies on cheap
“neutral” wines, then fortification and wood
to give these wines character.
“People think that’s the original way of
Sherry, but it’s not true,” said Willy Pérez,
of Bodegas Luis Pérez, as we walked through
the famed Macharnudo vineyard, about
20 kilometers from the Atlantic near the
town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Wine has
been grown in Macharnudo for centuries,
and in the 19th century, it was among the
most expensive land in Europe. But you
almost never hear about vineyards like
this in modern Sherry communications.
“Everything changed over the last 50 years,”
Pérez told me. “The message moved from the
vineyards to the wineries, and the taste of
the Sherry changed.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

TO M A R E N A
STYLING BY

MONICA SIMON

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 73

Who says Jerez
has no terroir?
Jerez, terroir is a topic that’s not
much discussed. “The idea that
‘Jerez had no terroir’ benefitted
the big houses,” says Alejandro
Muchada, of Muchada-Léclapart winery, a
partnership with David Léclapart, the famed
Champagne producer. This terroir denial,
Muchada says, “gave the big houses power
over the small growers and they could say,
‘Your grapes aren’t worth much.’”
The new wave can’t come fast enough
for Sherry, the market for which has
been declining since the 1980s. By some
accounts, vineyard land in Sherry country
has cratered from about 70,000 acres to just
15,000. “People talk about a crisis in Jerez,”
says Muchada. “A lot of the bodegas sold
their vineyards, and we lost the connection
to the vineyards.”
There are certainly quality traditional
producers in Jerez. Big houses like Valdespino and Lustau make excellent Sherries. In 2005, Eduardo Ojeda and a partner
launched Equipo Navazos, a négociant that
sources and releases special barrels of rare,
coveted Sherry from small bodegas around
the region.
However, to change the fortunes of Jerez,
more radical change is necessary.
In the U.S., for more than a decade, people
in the wine and spirits bubble have tried to
make a Sherry revival happen, with little to
show for it. Don’t believe me? How many
normal everyday drinkers do you know who
regularly enjoy, say, a fino or manzanilla
or amontillado? In reality, the opposite of

Wine has been
grown in Macharnudo
for centuries, and in
the 19th century, it
was among the most
expensive land in Europe.

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a revival has happened. In a 2019 WineSearcher article titled “Sherry is Dying, Pass
the Port,” writer Don Kavanagh summed up
the situation in dire terms. “Extinction is
such a final word that it seems strange to use
in terms of an entire category of wine, but
along with gorillas, the Sumatran elephant
and the white rhino we may soon have to
add the name Sherry,” Kavanaugh wrote.
“The real interest in the wines might well
be limited to whisk(e)y distillers who need
the barrels to age their own product, but
the general public’s interest will gradually
shrink.” Ouch.
Some of the original Sherry revivalists
have grown cynical. “This is something that
people in the industry don’t want to hear,
especially those advocating for Sherry, but
it’s never going to happen, man,” author
and mixologist Derek Brown told me. Brown
ran a high-profile Sherry bar called Mockingbird Hill, in Washington, D.C., during
the so-called “Sherry renaissance” of the
2010s. Unlike Brown’s other popular bars,
the Sherry bar didn’t last long.
Even in Spain, Sherry consumption is
declining, especially as an everyday drink.
Sherry’s Consejo Regulador found that more
than 40 percent of the fino Sherry in Spain
is consumed solely during various ferias (or
festivals) throughout the country, mostly in
rebujitos, a drink made with a mix of fino
Sherry and 7UP.
Back in Jerez de la Frontera, the Consejo
Regulador finally took action to reverse
these negative trends. Last year, a slew of
new regulations went into effect for the
Jerez D.O. that producers hope will chart a
new course for Sherry. The most important
change is no more mandatory fortification.
Non-fortified wines can now be bottled as
D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry. “It was 10 years of
fighting but now we can have a fino without
fortification,” Pérez told me.
Six local grape varieties will also now be
newly permitted: Perruno, Beba, Cañocazo,
Vigiriega, Mantúo Castellano and Mantúo
de Pilas.
In Jerez, before phylloxera, there were
45 white varieties and 33 red varieties,
according to Ramiro Ibáñez of Bodega Cota
45. “With the culture of the last 50 years,
we’ve lost this tradition,” Ibáñez says. “We

are now taking pieces and tools from history.”
This is not to say that the traditional
Palomino grape will become less important.
In fact, many believe that Palomino, grown
the right way, can show as much terroir as
other world-class grapes. “You read a book
and it says ‘Palomino is a neutral grape’ but
that’s not true. It depends on how you farm,”
says Muchada, who makes exquisite, nonfortified, terroir-driven wines from Palomino. Depending on where it grows, the
grape can be zippy and citrusy, mineral and
saline, full of ripe orchard fruit, or all of the
above. “People say Palomino is a grape for
the future,” he says. “She’s low-alcohol, and
she’s going to show you everything.”

‘Dirty dogs’ and the
post-natty path
inally, another major change will
be that pagos can now be stated
on the label, signaling that terroir
will become a more important facet
of Jerez wines moving forward. Look for
place names such as Macharnudo, Miraflores and Carrascal as emerging “grand
cru” designations.
Jerez will likely promote its coastal
locale at a time when “Atlantic wines” has
become a popular term in the Iberian Peninsula. “For us, the most important element
is the Atlantic,” Ibáñez told me. “Now, in
Spain, they want to say that there is Atlantic
climate all over. But the Atlantic is here.”
Perhaps the most interesting winemaker
I met in Jerez was Raúl Moreno, an experimentalist whose wines are coveted in Spain’s
big-city wine bars. I went with Moreno out to
his vines in Pago Miraflores, which he called
“the coolest vineyard in Jerez.” The soil is
pure chalk, and he farms his plots biodynamically, with a mule. “This is precision viticulture, and it takes a lot of work,” says Moreno.
“This region has amazing potential if people
would do good agricultural practices. But
they’re lazy.” For instance, Moreno started
picking last year on July 17th. “I am always
the first to pick in Jerez. I’m also always the
last one picking.”

One reason for that is Moreno grows
a crazy number of different grapes: Pedro
Ximénez, Tintilla, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Muscat, and, of course, Palomino.
He makes a red with 100% Perruno (which
means “dirty dog”)—one of the newly
allowed grapes—that is 100% whole-cluster
fermented, spends 10 months under flor and
is aged in a chestnut cask. It was bright,
fresh, mineral, floral, and I could not believe
it was a Jerez wine. It blew me away.
“The future of Jerez is non-fortified
wines. But alternative varieties and field
blends are also the future,” Moreno says.
Moreno previously worked for large,
industrial wineries, living half his adult
life in Australia, only returning to Spain in
2020. He’s seen everything and knows all
the tricks, but he’s extremely low intervention. Moreno is what we might call “postnatty”—using natural wine techniques like
skin contact, carbonic maceration and aging
in clay tinaja, but also employing the traditional Jerez aging under flor.
Currently Moreno is experimenting with
Portuguese varieties, such as Arinto, Encruzado and Baga. “Arinto is the best grape
variety for climate change on the Iberian
Peninsula,” he says. His Destellos 2022
is a blend of Palomino with 15% Arinto,
fermented in chestnut amontillado or
manzanilla barrels.
Moreno and I visited a new vineyard near
El Puerto de Santa María, on an estate with
a house that dates to the 12th century. We
met his partner in the new project, Thomas
de Wangen, who owns the property and
produces the Diatomist label. After a tour,
we all sat under the shade to drink some
wine and eat jamón and cheese. Moreno
opened his La Esencia 2022, a claireté made
with an unheard-of blend of Tintilla, Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, Perruno, Arinto and
Baga—aged three months in clay pots. Again,
it was like no wine I’d ever tasted from Jerez.
“What I do is different than everyone else,”
Moreno told me. “The beauty of this region
is there is so much potential. You can make
so many things.”
“There’s no reason Jerez can’t be as prestigious as Ribera del Duero,” de Wangen
chimed in. “Well, Ribera del Duero, but, you
know, cool.”

“It was 10 years of
fighting but now we can have
a fino without fortification.”
–Willy Pérez

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 75

TOP

SPIRITS
Sit up, take notice—these are the most
exciting spirits of the year.

BY KARA NEWMAN

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A RS H A L L T ROY

STYLING BY JESSICA ZINDREN

his past year, a few great bottles made us sit up and take notice. These were the bottles we couldn’t stop thinking about. We posted
them on social media, poured them for others and nicked them to take home for our own collection.
Many of these have big, bold profiles: a sunny passion-fruit liqueur that makes tropical cocktails shine; a mezcal bursting with
spicy-sweet mole flavors; a small-batch bourbon from an independent bottler that, true to its name, soars with spice.
Sure, we also appreciate the quiet beauty of nuanced, subtle spirits, and plenty of those bottles fill out the list, too. But looking back, 2023

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

was the year that a weary world finally seemed to spring back to life. Bars and restaurants boomed. Robust-flavored cocktails like the Hugo
Spritz and the Espresso Martini flourished. New bottlings rolled out at a furious clip.
Compiled from the hundreds of bottles we’ve had the opportunity to review over the past 12 months, this list represents a wide and exciting range. Pricing spans from $750 (for a stunning limited-edition Irish whiskey—watch your back, Scotch) to a $20 best-buy organic vodka.
We hope you’ll find here memorable bottles you’ll want to share, too.

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TOP 100 S PIRITS I 2023

Scotch

layer of peat smoke wrapped around a caramel core
tinged with butterscotch, toffee and roasted nuts.
Cinnamon and clove warm the finish, accompanied
by a subtle violet exhale.
abv: 43%
Price: $70

Isle of Skye 25 Years Old (Scotland; Silver
Lake Imports, Miami, FL). A rich and inviting sip, from start to finish. Caramel, cocoa and oak
aromas lead to deeper toffee and fresh-roasted coffee bean flavors. The long, lush finish shows orange
marmalade, almond butter and crushed hazelnut.
abv: 40%
Price: $205

Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate 15 Years
Old (Scotland; Moet Hennessy USA, New
York, NY). It would be simplistic to say this single
malt Scotch is a dead ringer for a bowl of Honey Nut
Cheerios. So we’ll deconstruct: Dried apricot and almond aromas lead into a lively palate showing honey
and toasted grain, along with hints of caramelized
pineapple and toasted coconut. A splash of water
draws out a puff of smoke into the long, rounded
finish. Made with barley grown on Glenmorangie’s
Cadboll Estate—and zero Cheerios. Third batch of
limited-edition Cadboll Estate series. 2023 Edition
abv: 43%
Price: $100

The Glenlivet 25 Years Old (Scotland; Pernod Ricard USA, New York, NY). Finished in
PX sherry and Cognac casks, this single malt has a
deep amber hue and toffee and red fruit aromas. The
complex palate opens with dried cherry and oak. A
splash of water unlocks chestnut, lemon cream and
vanilla, teased by fleeting hints of peach, Muscat
grape and violets. A puff of campfire smoke gathers
on the exhale, along with drying hints of leather and
black pepper. Part of the Sample Room Collection.
abv: 43%
Price: $650

zipan tones, finishing with a floral hint and a waft
of smoke. Part of the limited-edition Coastal Series.
abv: 46%
Price: $80

Jura 18 Years Old (Scotland; Whyte and
MacKay USA Imports, Healdsburg, CA).

This single malt was finished in Bordeaux casks,
yielding an amber hue and rich toffee and oak aromas. The big, bold palate suggests caramel, sticky
toffee pudding, dried dates and roasted nuts, finishing long with hints of allspice and peat smoke.
A splash of water brings out milk-chocolate tones.
Consider it as a dessert pairing.
abv: 44%
Price: $100

Blackadder Black Snake Single Malt Scotch
(Scotland; Glass Revolution, Las Vegas, NV).
Rich, nutty tones make it clear this is an oloroso
sherry-finished bottling. The first sips open with
concentrated butterscotch and oak, followed by
mouthwatering roasted pecan, salted caramel and
finally hints of smoke and black-pepper tingle. Ginger sparks enliven the finish.
abv: 59.9%
Price: $85/700ml

Octomore 14.1 (Scotland; Remy Cointreau,
New York, NY). In this super-peated single
malt from the iconic Bruichladdich distillery, look
for a golden hue and mild vanilla and spearmint
aromas. The palate opens with mouthwatering butterscotch and menthol, finishing long with a smoked
maple-sugar effect that ever so slowly tapers off.
abv: 59.6%
Price: $220

Kingsbarns Balcomie (Scotland; Palm Bay
International, Boca Raton, FL). Expect a burnished gold hue and fresh apple scent. The palate
opens distinctly sweet, with salted caramel, rum raisin and baked-apple tones, but finishes gently with
ginger spice and vanilla. Best Buy.
abv: 46%
Price: $58

Tullibardine 500 Sherry Cask Finish (Scotland; Prestige Beverage Group, Mendota
Heights, MN). This is a non-age-statement single
malt finished in oloroso and PX sherry casks. Look
for a honey hue and baked-pear aromas, plus a faint
smoky whiff. The palate unfurls a modest amount
of smoke around a core of baked pear, vanilla and
candied ginger, leading into a long, nuanced finish
perfumed with white flowers and sandalwood incense. Best Buy.
Price: $40
abv: 43%

Irish Whiskey
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The Dalmore 14 Years Old (Scotland; E&J
Gallo Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). Almond and
vanilla aromas entwine with a floral whiff. The palate opens with concentrated caramel and finishes
buttery and rich with hints of dried fig, cinnamon
and clove. Finished in PX sherry casks.
abv: 43.8%
Price: $90

Lismore Aged 18 Years (Scotland; Sans Wine
& Spirits, Irvine, CA). Fresh apple and vanilla
bean aromas entice. The bold palate unfurls a light

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes wine
cask matured (Scotland; Hotaling & Co.,
San Francisco, CA). This is a non-age-statement

single malt matured in casks that previously held
Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine from France’s
Cognac region. The result is a complex, pleasing
whisky layered with delicate peach, apple and mar-

Bushmills 29-Year-Old Rare Cask (Ireland;
Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). The second
release in the Rare Casks collectors’ series spent 12
years in bourbon barrels, then another 17 in PX sherry casks. All that barrel time imparts a deep amber
hue, and dried fig and toffee aromas. Add plenty of
water to take off the tannic edge and open up luxuriously deep, dark flavors: dried figs and dates, plum
skin, mocha and clove spice. Released in May 2022;
limited edition of 500 bottles.
abv: 53%
Price: $750

cardamom meld with caramel, maple and oak, finishing long, with black-pepper sparks and a touch of
sandalwood incense. From independent bottler Lost
Lantern, this is part of the Single Distillery Series,
specifically a bottling from Frey Ranch Distiller in
Fallon, NV.
abv: 63.8%
Price: $100

Limavady Single Malt Whiskey Single Barrel
No. 0040 (Ireland; Whistlepig LLC, Shoreham, VT). The mild, grassy aroma has a tinge of green
apple. Meanwhile, the palate leads with brown sugar
and caramel. A splash of water pulls a deep-toasted
grain note forward, finishing with bitter espresso
plus cardamom and black pepper heat. A bit of appley freshness returns on the complex exhale.
abv: 46%
Price: $45/700ml

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Busker Irish Whiskey Single Malt (Ireland;
Disaronno International, Somerset, NJ). Look
for an orange-gold hue and bold baked-apple notes
on the nose and palate, accompanied by orange peel
and honey-drizzled walnuts. Adding water lightens
the texture, with mild cocoa, smoke and cinnamon
tingling on the exhale. Best Buy.
abv: 44.3%
Price: $30

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Redbreast 12-Year-Old Irish Whiskey (Ireland;
Pernod Ricard USA, New York). Sip solo or
mix a first-rate toddy with this classic. Baked apple and pear notes mingle with caramel and a light
sprinkle of baking spice, leading into a long but
bright finish. The flavor stands up well to dilution,
making it a favorite for cocktails.
abv: 40%
Price: $65

Teeling Virgin Chinkapin Oak Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL).
Chinkapin, a type of North American oak, is the sole
wood used to mature this pot-stilled whiskey. Here,
it imparts a deep, burnished gold hue and bold, dessert-like aromas and flavors: dulce de leche, vanilla
cookies, spiced cocoa and cinnamon heat. This is the
debut expression in the “Wonders of Wood” series
in partnership with Tree Council of Ireland.
abv: 50%
Price: $119

Egan’s Conviction Irish Whiskey Aged 10
Years (Ireland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY).
This is a blend of single grain and single malt whiskies, each aged at least 10 years and finished in
XO Cognac cask. The end result is a dark-gold hue
and almond aromas. Look for palate-coating honey,
golden raisin and dried-apricot flavors shot through
with cigar smoke and espresso. Overall, the effect is
rich and luxe.
abv: 46%
Price: $100

Bhakta Armagnac Cask Finish Bourbon 2013
(USA; Balthazar Rex, Shoreham, VT). What’s
in the bottle is a nearly 100% corn bourbon distilled
in Indiana in 2013, aged about nine years, finished
in ex-Armagnac casks and bottled in Vermont. That
translates into robust caramel plus an unusual explosion of orange peel and orange oils on the first
sips. Add a splash of water to draw out hints of hazelnut, pecan and mocha. Salted caramel and a hint
of prune frame the long, mouthwatering finish. Enjoy on its own or mix a drink with minimal adornment, like an Old Fashioned.
abv: 50.3%
Price: $149

Barrell Bourbon Batch #035 (USA; Barrell
Craft Spirits, Louisville, KY). This is a mix
of straight bourbons from Tennessee, Kentucky and
Indiana, ranging in age from six to 13 years old. The
end result is a mix of rich caramel and toffee on nose
and palate. Each sip opens relatively dry, with oak
and hints of espresso and dark chocolate, but finishes long and luxe, showing mocha tinged with hazelnut and a final burst of fiery ginger heat.
abv: 58.75%
Price: $90

McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask Finish
(Ireland; Conecuh Brands, Garden City, NY).
Concentrated caramel leads the nose and palate.
Hints of dark chocolate and espresso balance it out,
finishing with a cayenne pepper tingle. This is a fiveyear-old whiskey finished in oloroso sherry casks.
abv: 46%
Price: $43

Bourbon

Slane Special Edition Irish Whiskey (Ireland;
Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Extra-virgin
oak is at the heart of this special edition, meaning
the wood hasn’t been exhausted of its potential to
contribute caramel and spice. It follows through:
Look for a bright topaz hue and inviting, concentrated caramel aromas. The palate layers that with
inviting tropical fruit and just a hint of campfire
smoke, resulting in caramelized pineapple, burnt
orange peel, dried fig and toasted coconut, finishing
long with black pepper sting. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $37

High N’ Wicked Bourbon (USA; High N’ Wicked, Harrodsburg, KY). This super-high-rye
bourbon is complex and enticing. Mellow toffee and
oak aromas lead into a silky but spicy palate. Sarsaparilla, allspice, nutmeg and clove surround a faint
ripple of butterscotch. The relatively dry finish offers hints of cedar, roasted grain and cigar tobacco.
abv: 52%
Price: $80

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Lost Lantern Soaring Spice (USA; Lost Lantern, Weybridge, VT). The name is apt: This
bourbon truly offers an explosion of spice from the
first sip. Bold cayenne, cinnamon-sweet heat and

Maker’s Mark Cellar Aged (USA; Maker’s Mark,
Loretto, KY). The oldest expression from the
venerable distillery, this includes a blend of 11- and
12-year-old bourbons, each aged about half its life in
a limestone cellar to slow the extraction of tannins.
It drinks similarly to the standard Maker’s, with
plenty of caramel, charcoal and spice, but with a bit

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 79

TOP 100 S PIRITS I 2023
more intensity and oak. This is the 2023 edition;
there will be a new edition each year going forward.
abv: 57.85%
Price: $150

long and super-drying, with oak and toasted almond.
Batch #B523.
abv: 62.1%
Price: $70

Other Whiskey

Dragon’s Milk Origin Small Batch Bourbon
(USA; New Holland Brewing Company, Holland, MI). From a producer known for aging beer in
bourbon casks (and vice versa), this is a five-yearold bourbon with a high-malt mash bill. A mild,
slightly sweet vanilla scent steers into a palate that
explodes with red fruit and spice. Mouthwatering
cranberry and dried cherry lead into a hoppy midpalate tinged with nutty and cocoa tones, finishing
with allspice and rootsy sarsaparilla.
abv: 47.5%
Price: $55

Courage & Conviction American Single Malt
Sherry Cask (USA; Virginia Distillery, Lovingston, VA). Aged a minimum of three years in ex-Sherry casks, this dessert-worthy whiskey offers fruitcake-like aromas. The palate opens with honey and
golden raisin, while adding water softens the flavors
to honey-drizzled apricot and grilled pineapple. It
finishes long and rounded, with cinnamon glow.
abv: 46%
Price: $85

Wolcott Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon (USA; Sazerac, Bardstown, KY). Look for vanilla and
stone-fruit aromas. The palate opens with almond
and toasted oak; a splash of water amplifies the almond and vanilla tones, and adds a mouthwatering
saline note. Perky baking spices and lemons emerge
on the fade. Best Buy.
abv: 50%
Price: $40

Bank Street Reserve Bourbon (USA; Laird
& Co., Scobeyville, NJ). Expect a honey hue
and an aroma that suggests rich caramel and toasted
nuts. The palate opens with vanilla sweetness, pecan and chestnut cream, lingering in a clove and
black-pepper finish. This is a five-year-old Kentucky
straight bourbon bottled in New Jersey. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $32

Blade and Bow Bourbon (USA; Stitzel-Weller
Distilling/Diageo, Louisville, KY). There’s no
age statement on the label; that’s intentional. The
lore of this liquid is that it includes a small amount
of the last bourbon ever produced at the iconic Stitzel-Weller distillery, which closed in 1992. (Diageo
reopened it in 2014.) This blend of straight bourbons offers vanilla on nose and palate, leading into
almond and a hint of dried apricot. The finish is
lively and relatively dry, with grapefruit peel, leather
and chamomile tea. Overall, it’s a light-handed and
pleasing take, regardless of how much (or little) old/
rare distillate is actually in the glass.
abv: 45.5%
Price: $50

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). Aged 11
years and five months, the latest edition in the Barrel Proof series is a straight-up vanilla bomb, start
to finish. Along the way, espresso and hints of dark
fruit, clove and black pepper add complexity, ending

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Camus Borderies VSOP Single Estate (France;
CIL Amerique, Manhasset, NY). Bold vanilla
bean and peach nectar on nose and palate are layered with hints of maple and caramel. The velvety,
toasty finish is accented with baking spice and a hint
of orange peel. Made exclusively with grapes from
the producer’s vineyards in the Borderies appellation.
abv: 40%
Price: $70/700ml

Courvoisier Cognac VSOP (France; BeamSuntory, Chicago, IL). Look for a dark amber
hue and restrained aroma. The soft, warming palate
opens with red fruit, leading into elongated caramel
and hazelnut tones, plus a hint of baking spice. Sip
or mix. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $50

Godet Cognac VSOP (France; Roust USA, New
York, NY). Nutty, honeyed tones perfume
this Cognac. The palate echoes honeycomb and
roasted nuts, layering that with a whiff of toasted
brioche and a zippy lemon-peel note, before finishing with gentle baking spice. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $40/700ml

Castle & Key Small Batch Wheated Bourbon
2022 Batch #1 (USA; Castle & Key, Frankfort, KY). This is a five-year-old bourbon, released
in 2022. Concentrated caramel aromas entice. The
bold palate opens with vanilla and oak, and a surprising peach-nectar hint. Grapefruit peel and coconut emerge on the exhale, shored up by ginger and
white-pepper sparks.
abv: 50%
Price: $65

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Rampur Select Single Malt. Special Release
2022 (India; SG Worldwide, Edison, NJ). This
pleasing, complex sipper has a honey hue and aromas that suggest red fruit and oak. The bold palate
opens with sandalwood, incense and candied ginger,
rounding into an elongated finish that echoes red
fruit and warming baking spice, plus a fleeting floral
hint on the exhale.
abv: 43%
Price: $140

Cognac
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Normandin Mercier 7 VSOP (France; Heavenly Spirits, Lakeville, MA). This delicious
and delicate Cognac opens with a distinctly nutty
aroma. The palate unfolds pecan and almond, plus
vanilla sweetness that lingers into the complex finish. Subtle white flower and pear mingle with ginger
and clove on the graceful exhale.
abv: 41.5% abv
Price: $70

A de Fussigny VSOP Cognac (France; Total
Wine & More, Bethesda, MD). Vanilla and
caramel aromas show on the nose. Initially, cocoa
and vanilla coat the palate, but tinges of dried dates
and violet emerge on the gentle exhale. Clove and
black pepper brace up the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $70

Cognac Park Cognac Mizunara (France; Back
Bar Project, Seattle, WA). This Cognac was
aged four years in used French oak casks, then transferred to new Japanese casks made from rare Mizunara wood for another six months. The end result
is a mild, fresh apple aroma and light palate. Each
sip evolves. Pineapple and tropical fruit lead to ginger and white pepper sparks, followed by a delicate
floral exhale.
abv: 43.5%
Price: $90

Residence Cognac VSOP (France; JP Bourgeois, Asheville, NC). The rich caramel aroma
is coupled with a hint of red fruit. Robust vanilla
leads into traces of cocoa powder, sandalwood and
grapefruit peel, plus an earthy finish laced with nutmeg and ginger. Certified organic.
abv: 40%
Price: $68

Cognac Frapin VSOP (France; PM Spirits,
Wilmington, DE). Initial caramel and oak
aromas open to a more red-apple scent. The brisk
palate shows some vanilla, but it’s light, underscored by another red-apple note. Vanilla treads
lightly on top. A quick baking-spice finish suggests
nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. There’s also apple butter, with a vanilla-cream exhale.
abv: 40%
Price: $83

TOP 100 S PIRITS I 2023
gin means an amber hue and complex allspice and
vanilla aromas. The palate melds maple, orange peel
and oak, plus a hint of cayenne into the finish. Sip
with ice or mix into a very special Martinez.
abv: 44%
Price: $35

Bayab Gin (Africa; Spearhead Spirits, West
Hollywood, CA). Pleasant dried spice aromas
include nutmeg, cardamom and coriander. The palate echoes the spice notes, leading into a mild fruity
note, suggesting kumquat and a citrusy finish. (Africa’s subtly tangy baobab fruit is a key botanical.)
Enjoy topped up with tonic water.
abv: 43%
Price: $35

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91

Merlet Cognac VSOP (France; Bedford & Grove,
Louisville, KY). Rich caramel and toasted almond lead the nose. Drying tannins and alcohol
warmth show up front. Adding water unlocks dried
date and fig notes, plus a hint of cocoa powder and
clove heat on the exhale. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $49

Bache Gabrielsen Cognac American Oak
(France; RBE Drinks, Jacksonville, FL). Finished in American oak barrels, this Cognac offers
mild almond aromas and a nutty, citrusy and spiced
palate. Nuanced vanilla and pecan jostle with hints
of orange and lemon peel, while the drying finish offers lots of cinnamon sweet heat.
abv: 40%
Price: $60/700ml

Gin
95

Gin de Las Californias Citrico (Mexico; Casa
Lumbre Spirits, Melville, NY). This refreshing gin delivers on the citrus promised in its name,
unfolding nuanced layers of bright lemon, tangerine
and kumquat on nose and palate. Grapefruit peel
and coriander perfume the exhale. Made with a sugar cane base. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $33

Chemist American Gin (USA; Apothecary
Beverage Company, Asheville, NC). Expect
a classic London Dry profile, plus a bit of savory
edge. A whiff of dried coriander leads into a palate
showing pine and savory spice, finishing brisk and
mouthwatering with a lemon-peel hint.
abv: 45%
Price: $38

Linden Leaf Botanicals 88 Organic Molecular
Gin (England; Eighty8, Bow Mar, CO). A clean,
classic juniper profile, plus a whiff of savory spice
leads the nose. The palate opens citrusy and brisk—
botanicals in the blend include yuzu, calamansi, and
lemon thyme—and finishes tingly, with rosemary
and mint. Ideal for Martinis. Best Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $29

Royal Mash Vodka (England; PACE, Morristown, NJ). Distilled from potatoes, this soft,
silky vodka offers hints of grapefruit pith and pink
peppercorn heat. The finish is pleasingly crisp. Mix
into vodka martinis with a citrus peel twist.
abv: 40%
Price: $43

Ovo Vodka (USA; Ovo Vodka, Jersey City, NJ).
This corn-based vodka has a relatively neutral aroma and flavor, landing lightly with a vanilla
tinge on the warming exhale. A versatile choice for
Vespers and other cocktails.
abv: 40%
Price: $27

Mojave High Desert Dry Gin (USA; Purple
Brands, Petaluma, CA). The aroma is mild
and lightly sweet, leading into a citrusy palate that
hints at lemon peel and white pepper, plus a fleeting floral note. Juicy lime frames the mouthwatering
finish. Mix into gin and tonics. Best Buy.
abv: 42%
Price: $29

Garnish Island Gin (Ireland; M.S. Walker, Boston, MA). Named for County Cork’s Garnish
Island, this gin opens with bold mint and licorice
aromas. The palate offers anise, ginger and rosemary,
drying to a pleasantly spiced and mouthwatering
finish drifting gently away.
abv: 46%
Price: $35

Kapriol Lemon & Bergamot Gin (Italy; Opici
Wine & Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ). The bright,
sweet candied-lemon-peel fragrance entices. The
palate echoes that bright lemon, adding pine and
lime peel note into the long finish, with just a touch
of lingering sweetness. Consider this gin a head start
on Martinis with a twist and other citrusy drinks.
abv: 40.7%
Price: $35/700ml

Constant Reader Gin (USA; Temple Distilling, Lynwood, WA). Sweet and savory spices
frame this versatile London Dry Style. Look for coriander on nose and palate, mingled with cardamom
and cubeb pepper piquancy. Best Buy.
abv: 42%
Price: $21/1L

Ransom Old Tom Gin The Geezer (USA; The
Great Oregon Wine Company, Dundee, OR).
An extra-aged version of Ransom’s original Old Tom

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Vodka

Streeter Flynn Vodka (USA; Denver Distillery,
Denver, CO). Brisk and neutral on nose and
palate, this versatile vodka has a light, soft feel and
just a shadow of nutty flavor. Faint lemony acidity
creates a tingly finish. Distilled from organic sugar
cane. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $24

Fête Vodka with Pure Gold Flakes (USA; Elixir,
Eugene, OR). As a festive take on vodka, the
name is apt. It’s fun to shake the bottle and watch
the gold flakes swirl, though once poured, they don’t
stay suspended for long. Distilled from sugar cane,
the liquid has soft vanilla sweetness and a wave of
cinnamon heat into the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $30

Ocean Organic Vodka (USA; Hawaii Sea Spirits, Maui, HI). This is packaged in a notably
heavy, globe-shaped bottle, while the vodka inside
is feather-light on the palate, with hints of almond
and graphite, finishing crisp with black pepper heat.
Distilled from organic sugar cane and blended with
“deep ocean mineral water.”
abv: 40%
Price: $30

Tightline Organic Vodka (USA; Tattersall
Distilling, River Falls, WI). Distilled from
Midwestern corn, this vodka skews lightly sweet on
nose and palate. Look for a distinct cocoa powder
note and a mouthwatering baking spice finish. Mix
into White Russians, Espresso Martinis and other
sweeter-style cocktails. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20

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Tequila
96

Don Vicente Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Don
Vicente, El Paso, TX). The aroma suggests
fresh-cut jalapeño, with a spicy hint that makes the
nose prickle. Peppery notes follow on the palate. Jalapeño as well as bell pepper and black pepper are
framed with hints of tarragon and graphite. Grapefruit-peel astringency and white-pepper sparks
complete the lively finish. Sip or mix.
abv: 40%
Price: $40

El Sativo Tequila Blanco (Mexico; El Sativo,
Reno, NV). A whiff of fresh spearmint introduces the lightly herbaceous aroma. The light palate echoes the fresh herb note, mixing it with lemon
peel and fresh jalapeño, plus a hint of vanilla. Each
sip finishes bracing and crisp, with pleasantly peppery heat. Sip or mix.
abv: 40%
Price: $50

Campovaso Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Distiller
Sales, St. Paul, MN). Honey richness and
sun-dried tomato on nose and palate give depth to
this limited-production tequila, while lemon peel
jazzes up the exhale. A teasing oaky note suggests
the barrel-aged expressions will be worth a closer
look.
abv: 40%
Price: $35

Hacienda Navarro Tequila Blanco (Mexico;
Carreon Enterprises, Denver, CO). A vegetal
aroma, with a hint of fresh tomato, leads into a light,
crisp palate. Mild honey and vanilla flavors fade into
a lightly peppery exit warmed with cayenne heat.
abv: 40%
Price: $45

Lagrimas del Valle Tequila Palo Verde Plata
2022 (Mexico; Altamar Brands, Corona del
Mar, CA). Savory and smoked—but not smoky—
hints mean this complex blanco is a wild ride. Lively
lemon, sun-dried tomato and tarragon open each sip,
leading into a zesty, savory blast of smoked paprika,
mesquite, ancho chile powder and a fleeting hint
of bacon, finishing with black-pepper fumes. Note:
each bottling will be a single vintage (2022 was the
first), harvested from a single field (in this case, Palo
Verde).
abv: 46%
Price: $55

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Lalo Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Lalo Spirits, Austin, TX). Look for bold tropical fruit on nose
and palate. Each complex sip opens slightly sweet
and finishes with citrus zing, mouthwatering salinity and a mineral hint of graphite.
abv: 40%
Price: $50

Codigo 1530 Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Codigo,
Niwot, CO). This limited edition is bottled at
still strength, meaning plenty of flavor intensity and
alcohol power. Look for a roasted jalapeño scent and
a hint of rubber. The memorable palate opens with
graphite, fading into coconut sweetness framed by
baking spice and a mouthwatering saline hint.
abv: 45%
Price: $75

Mijenta Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Altos Planos, Dallas, TX). Hints of bell pepper and
fresh mint perfume this blanco. The palate opens
with vegetal bell and jalapeño peppers, leading to
a mouthwatering saline hint on the midpalate. The
exit blazes with alcohol heat, melding with cayenne,
ginger and jalapeño, soothed with cooked agave and
rich honey on the way out.
abv: 40%
Price: $49

93
94

Buendia Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Buendia,
Wyomissing, PA). This tequila has a tropical
touch, opening with coconut, citrus and pineapple
aromas. The complex palate offers coconut and bracing hints of rubber and graphite. Almond sweetness
smooths the exit, sprinkled with clove and cinnamon heat.
abv: 40%
Price: $48

La Pulga Tequila Blanco (Mexico; La Pulga
Spirits, Fort Worth, TX). Overall, this is a
citrusy and lively tequila. A fresh tomato scent welcomes the savory and zesty palate. Lemony acidity
leads to pickled jalapeño and ginger, plus whitepepper heat.
abv: 40%
Price: $45

Jaja Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). This tequila shows the
sweeter side of blanco. Agave nectar, vanilla cookie
and almond are balanced by drying white pepper
and ginger notes. The exhale includes a hint of butterscotch.
abv: 40%
Price: $35

Painted Donkey Tequila Blanco (Mexico; Dynasty Spirits Brands, Dallas, TX). Herbaceous
notes lead the nose and palate, with a bouquet of
mint, tarragon and lemongrass that heads to a mentholated finish. Fennel seed, bell pepper and lime
peel exit with a final, sneaky burst of heat. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $25

Mezcal
98

QQRQ Mezcal Destilado Con Mole (Mexico;
Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). Savory, spiced
and stunningly complex. Bold cayenne and smoked
paprika aromas set the nose twitching, while the super-earthy palate delivers an ever-evolving rotation
of flavors: meaty/umami notes, cocoa powder, hints
of tropical fruit, a suggestion of roasted tomato, a
whiff of smoke, subtle spices that waft into the lipsmacking finish. Every sip tastes different.
abv: 47%
Price: $92

Ilegal Mezcal 7-Year-Old Añejo (Mexico; Ilegal Mezcal, Miami, FL). Think of this enjoyable sipper as a mezcal for the smoky Scotch set.
The amber hue and mellow caramel aroma lead into
a rich caramel and toffee palate. The complex fin-

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TOP 100 S PIRITS I 2023
ish offers plenty of campfire smoke, plus cacao nib,
clove and burnt orange peel.
abv: 40%
Price: $175

per and torched sage create a final vegetal exhale.
Espadín. Best Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $40

Mi Mamá Me Dijo (Mexico; Pinnacle & Associates, Port Washington, NY). Mild tropicalfruit aromas lead into a complex palate bursting
with roasted and meaty tones, and a long, distinctly
saline finish with a pine-needle hint. All that umami
wrapped around a fruity core brings to mind roasted
tomato sprinkled with plenty of sea salt, or roasted
pineapple swathed in prosciutto. Overall, a memorable sipper. Espadín. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $42

Vamonos Riendo Mezcal (Mexico; Good Spirits Ventures, Manhasset, NY). A blend of
espadín and tobala, this mezcal receives an extra
distillation with fruit, in the style of pechuga. The
end result is a mild citrus aroma and perky lime zest,
pine and sandalwood flavors. Pleasing honey sweetness leads into the warming finish.
abv: 42%
Price: $60

Mezcal Sacrificio Joven (Mexico; Mexcor,
Houston, TX). Pencil lead and rubber aromas are underpinned by honey and citrus. The brisk
palate opens with rubber, slate and smoke, leading
into a crisp finish with black pepper and a mouthwatering tinge of lemon peel. Espadín. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $38

Don Amado Mezcal Reposado (Mexico; Hass
Brothers, San Francisco, CA). Look for a light
gold hue and robust dried oregano and sage aromas.
The bold palate mingles unsweetened chocolate,
roasted bell pepper and sun-dried tomato, finishing long with tinges of vanilla, mesquite smoke and
cayenne heat. Espadín, rested for six months in used
brandy casks.
abv: 45%
Price: $55

Rum

Holmes Cay Heritage Blend Esotico Edition
(Barbados/Martinique/Venezuela; Windyside Spirits, White Plains, NY). Complex aromas
include almond and vanilla, plus a seaside saline
breeze. The mouthwatering palate shows coconut
and espresso bitterness and finishes notably long—a
ribbon of almond, coconut and vanilla fading off into
the distance. Best Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $39

Plantation Rum Under the Sea Guyana 2007
(Guyana; Maison Ferrand, Quincy, MA). The
concentrated vanilla aroma leads into a robust salted caramel palate mixed with freshly grown espresso,
clove and an intriguing hint of lemon peel.
abv: 51%
Price: $80

Bozal Cenizo Mezcal (Mexico; 3 Badge Beverage, Sonoma, CA). Mild almond aromas
lead into a palate that unfurls hints of vanilla and
brown sugar. The midpalate surprises with plum
skin, espresso and rootsy sarsaparilla, plus mouthwatering lemon zest, drying to a long and spicy finish laced with cayenne, clove and sandalwood.
abv: 47%
Price: $80

The Lost Cask Collection Single Cask Rum
Aged 17 Years Distilled in Fiji (Fiji; Rolling
Fork Spirits, Louisville, KY). This memorable bottle is
bold and complex. Add some water to this overproof
beauty; a lively core of ripe tropical fruit emerges,
surrounded by dark chocolate, espresso and touches
of char and funk, warmed with black pepper and
clove.
abv: 63.6%
Price: $180

Pluma Negra Mezcal - Tobala (Mexico; Cultured Spirits, Bridgeport, PA). Overall, this
mezcal opens floral and exits smoky. Think rose
petals tumbling over wet pavement: Floral hints
on nose and palate lead into more austere graphite
and stone notes midpalate. Numbing black and pink
peppercorn and a puff of smoke frame the exhale.
abv: 48%
Price: $120

Fosforo Mezcal Tobala Penca (Mexico; Fosforo, Vernon Hills, IL). Expect a honey hue and
smoky aroma. The palate mingles smoke and salted
butterscotch, finishing long with mesquite smoke
laced with tingly clove and black pepper. Aged 1-3
months in glass with penca (agave leaves).
abv: 43%
Price: $125

Xicala Joven Mezcal (Mexico; Global Beverage Team, Chicago, IL). The delicate aroma
is slightly sweet, slightly floral, with a peppery undertone. Those notes are echoed on the light-bodied
palate, reading as rose petal and a hint of tropical
fruit, leading into a long, peppery finish. Bell pep-

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Rhum J.M Terroir Volcanique (Martinique;
Spiribam USA, Wakefield, RI). Orange peel
and toasted almond lead the nose. The lively palate
offers lots of vanilla and caramel up front, drying
into hints of leather and cigar wrapper. The finish
shows a faint but refreshing bell pepper-like vegetal
exhale.
abv: 43%
Price: $43/700ml

The Rum Cooperative Vol 3. (Multiple; Bully
Boy Distillers, Boston, MA). Part of an ongoing series of stellar rum blends, this one, introduced
May 2022, melds 12-year-old rums from the Dominican Republic (60% of the blend), Panama (39%)
and small amounts from Barbados and Brazil. Look
for an amber hue and pleasing caramel and vanilla
aromas. The palate reads almost like boozy cream
soda, fading into a long, drying finish accented with
cocoa, leather and flickers of clove and black pepper.
Best Buy.
abv: 46%
Price: $38

Transcontinental Rum Line Mauritius 2017
(Mauritius; La Maison & Velier, Manhasset,
NY). Vanilla and allspice aromas, plus a distinct
cherry hint, unfold into a drying, complex palate.
Cocoa, dried date and clove-cayenne-cinnamon
spice winds into a long finish, with hints of mesquite smoke and burnt orange peel.
abv: 50%
Price: $53/700ml

“Through four decades,
we have built our winegrowing expertise
and honed our cellar regimens in Paso
,

Sauvignon the equal of any in the world.
My signature on the label indicates that
this wine is a personal statement for me;
it is a heartfelt thank you to Paso Robles
FOU NDER

and to the many J. Lohr team members
who have helped achieve this milestone.”

—J

,
CFO

95
POINTS

Wine Enthusiast, May ‘23

TOP 100 S PIRITS I 2023

Amagi 9-Year-Old Rum (Japan; Honkaku
Imports, Mineola, NY). Made from kokuto
sugar, this Japanese rum has a deep nut-brown hue
and deep aromas of roasted coffee, toffee and leather.
Since it’s overproof, add some water to let the cocoa
and espresso bloom along with dried cherry and fig—
the long, warming finish displaying subtle violet and
torched cinnamon.
abv: 64.2%
Price: $100

Rum Explorer Thailand (Thailand; Pacific
Edge Imports, Agoura Hills, CA). Tawny and
bright, this five-year-old rum shows rich caramel
on nose and palate. The long, nutty finish includes
burnt orange peel, cocoa powder and a bold burst of
cayenne, cinnamon bark and star anise. Distilled in
Thailand and aged in France, in American oak casks
that previously held Cognac.
abv: 42%
Price: $55/700ml

Amaro di Toscana (Italy; Saranty Imports,
Stamford, CT). Mild blackberry aromas lead
into a comforting sweet-tart palate that recalls dried
cherry or cranberry compote, with a bitter edge that
suggests espresso with sugar. A faint sprinkle of
dried mint and thyme refreshes. Versatile and mixable. Best Buy.
abv: 30%
Price: $25

Accompani Amaro (USA; Straightaway, Portland, OR). Look for a burnished gold hue and
aromas of marigold and honey. The palate opens
bracing and relatively dry, with light gentian bitterness. Chamomile tea lifted with mint, cinnamon and
a whiff of orange peel fades into honeycomb on the
long but light finish. Consider slipping a little into a
cup of tea. Best Buy.
abv: 25%
Price: $30

Ron Zacapa Sistema No. 23 Solera (Guatemala; Ron Zacapa Co, New York, NY). Zacapa
tends to make rums on the sweeter and more luscious side; this is no exception. Look for a deep
nut-brown hue and concentrated toffee aroma. The
plush palate shows cocoa, dried dates and figs, and
finishes with a hint of chocolate-covered cherry.
What’s in the bottle is a blend of rums aged for at
least six years, blended via solera.
abv: 40%
Price: $50

Amaro
96

Amaro Lucano Anniversario (Italy; Kobrand,
Purchase, NY). The plush palate opens with
a burst of dark fruit—plum, dried fig and date, black
cherry—leading into hints of espresso and vanilla.
Clove and cinnamon bark warm the long, tingly finish. Consider as a dessert sipper.
abv: 34%
Price: $37

DeGroff New World Amaro (USA; Clear Creek
Distillery, Hood River, OR). This new amaro,
the first from “King Cocktail” Dale DeGroff, commands attention. From the moment the bottle is
opened, the bold, deeply spiced aroma invites. The
palate surprises with a vibrant burst of lemony
brightness, drying to a grippy plum-skin effect midpalate. A long finish is perfumed with curry-like
spice, with warm cinnamon, anise, cardamom, cumin, plus a menthol exhale. Made for mixing.
abv: 35%
Price: $40/700ml

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Black Irish White Chocolate Liqueur (Ireland;
Selected Imported Wine, New York, NY).
Backed by Mariah Carey, this silky liqueur has a pale,
creamy appearance, indeed like melted white chocolate. The flavor is familiar, like a typical Irish cream
liqueur, with just enough zing from the whiskey lifting the finish.
abv: 17%
Price: $29

Chinola Passion Fruit Liqueur (Dominican
Republic; Park Street Imports, Miami, FL).
Absolutely delicious, and a must-have for tropical
cocktails. The juice-like appearance is burnished orange and cloudy, with a bold, juicy passion fruit and
apricot scent. The fruit carries over to the thick, viscous palate, with a peach nectar texture that clings,
finishing with a faint hint of ginger.
abv: 21%
Price: $33

Grand Marnier Cuvée Louis-Alexandre
(France; Campari America, New York, NY).
This liqueur has an amber hue and candied orange
and marzipan aromas. The viscous, distinctly sweet
palate swirls together dried fruit, honey and baking
spice, emerging as amaretto cookie, orange cake and
honey cake. Orange zest leads the long finish. Mix or
enjoy as a post-meal sipper. 82% VSOP cognac, 18%
orange liqueur.
abv: 40%
Price: $80

Samuel Maverick White Rum (USA; Sam Maverick Spirits, San Antonio, TX). Floral aromas
with a hint of tropical fruit entice. The palate echoes
soft notes of flowers and lychee, exiting crisp and
clean with a powdery floral exhale generously laced
with white pepper and ginger. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $40

Liqueurs

91
94

Amaro di Erbe Trieste (Italy; Uva Imports, Atlanta, GA). Named for the port city of Trieste, this amaro has a honey hue and floral aroma.
The palate opens bitter and very dry, teasing hints
of chamomile, lemon pith and peel, and ginger root
heat. The finish is sharp, slightly astringent and appropriately bitter, with a hint of dark honey that lingers on the tongue. Made with 12 botanicals including hops, dandelion and eucalyptus.
abv: 40%
Price: $70 for 700 ml

Ume Plum Liqueur (USA; Plumeshu, San Francisco, CA). The startling deep-purple hue
catches the eye, while the aroma mixes violet and
fresh apple notes. The mouthwatering, sweet-tart
palate reads like fresh-cut Granny Smith apples,
white grape juice, or plum flesh, winding into a gentle floral exhale. It’s pleasant, but the color is the
real reason to pour this for a wide range of cocktails.
abv: 17%
Price: $35

Amaro Mysteriosa (USA; Van Brunt Stillhouse, Brooklyn, NY). This distinctly herbaceous liqueur will remind some of yellow Chartreuse. The burnished gold liquid has a bitter scent,
suggesting roots and barks, and a sweet-bitter palate. Honey sweetness unfurls into cinnamon and
clove tingle. Turkish rhubarb is used to add earthy
backbone.
abv: 30%
Price: $50

Black Note Amaro (Italy; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). On the sweeter side of the amaro
spectrum, this deep-brown liqueur has a pleasing
fruity aroma, suggesting red fruit, plum and fig,
framed by a rootsy bitter note. Roasted coffee and
vanilla flavors coat the palate, leading into a lightly
bitter finish.
abv: 21%
Price: $37

For more on the Top 100 Spirits, visit
wineenthusiast.com/TopSpirits2023

NEW YORK SPARKLES

CHRISTINA
PICKARD

nce relegated to car races and celebratory occasions,
sparkling wine has become an everyday drink. It’s the
fastest growing category in the U.S., with double digit
growth recorded in 2021. Winemakers across North
America have taken notice. While the U.S. still imports almost
half of all the bubbles consumed stateside, domestic production is
catching up. And few U.S. regions better suit the style than New York
State. The third largest wine-producing region in America boasts a
cool climate perfect for high-acid, early-ripening sparkling varieties.
90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

New York also has a rich bubbly history that dates back further than
almost any other commercial wine in America. In the mid-1800s, one
Finger Lakes winery was even nicknamed the “Rheims of America”
after the famed Champagne capital.
Today, New York bubbles are making a comeback. Whether made
in the traditional method with Champagne varieties, or as a pét nat
comprised of hybrids, delicious Empire State sparklers abound. And
many believe that bubbles—just as they did 160 years ago—will play a
crucial role in the future of New York wine.

A.D. WHEELER PHOTOGRAPHY FOR PLEASANT VALLEY WINE COMPANY

PAST, PRESENT
AND
FUTURE
This historic style may be the key to NY’s wine future.

COURTESY OF FINGER LAKES WINE ALLIANCE

Hand disgorging at Dr. Konstantin
Frank during the Finger Lakes Wine
Alliance’s “Riesling Camp.”

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 91

Once Upon a Sparkling Time
In the year 1865, Abraham Lincoln was shot, the Civil War came to an end and 20,000 bottles of “American Champagne” were produced by the U.S.’s
first bonded winery, Pleasant Valley Wine Company on Keuka Lake in the Finger Lakes region of central New York. Two years later, that same sparkler, made from American native grape Catawba, went on to win honorable mention at the Exposition Universelle in Paris, making it the first American sparkling wine to win a European award. By 1873, Pleasant Valley’s “Champagne” had nabbed a myriad of top prizes around Europe. Nationally,
its success was sealed when Boston’s literati, the “influencers” of the time, declared it “the Great Champagne of the Western world,” which led it to
be named “Great Western,” a label still used today by Pleasant Valley, which has gone through several changes in ownership over the years.

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

TOP: A.D.WHEELER PHOTOGRAPHY, BOTTOM: COURTESY OF PLEASANT VALLEY WINE COMPANY (3)

“Producers are responding to today’s generation of
tastemakers, as sommeliers and beverage directors
in the country’s trendiest wine bars celebrate all
things natural, accessible and anti-establishment.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A.D. WHEELER PHOTOGRAPHY(2), COURTESY OF PLEASANT VALLEY WINE COMPANY

Top Row:
View of Keuka Lake from Pleasant
Valley’s Hammondsport vineyards;
the historic Great Western cellars
Bottom Row:
Commemorative plaque
including honors afforded to
Great Western Champagne in
1873; Caroline Kennedy christens
USS John F Kennedy with a bottle
of Great Western; side-by-side of
Pleasant Valley in 1870 and today

Other early (now shuttered) producers like Urbana Wine Company, Germania Wine Cellars, and, on the next lake over, Seneca Lake Grape Wine
Company, jumped aboard the sparkling train. By the turn of the 20th century, New York produced more than twice as much sparkling as the other major
wine-producing states of the time—California, Ohio and Missouri—combined. Finger Lakes “Champagne” was virtually synonymous with American
sparkling wine. That is, until Prohibition put a screeching halt to the industry. Like elsewhere in the nation, America’s “dry years” between 1920-1933
crippled New York’s wine industry. Pleasant Valley, where sparkling sales were at an all-time high in 1919, was left with 70,000 cases of unsold inventory the following year. The company survived, like a small number of others around the state, by selling wine for sacramental and medicinal purposes.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 93

Prohibition combined with the Great Depression and two World Wars meant it would take
New York’s wine industry nearly 50 years to recover. When it did, its rebirth would happen
on the same lake as before, Keuka, but sparkling was no longer the focus. This time, European vinifera varieties, most notably Riesling, would steal the spotlight.
But just as his father, trailblazing horticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, pioneered Riesling and other vinifera varieties throughout the second half of the 20th century, son Willy
Frank, who was eager to distinguish himself from his father, helped to herald in New York’s
modern era of premium sparkling. This time, the wines were made not from native varieties like Catawba but from the clones and varieties used in Champagne (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier), which Willy planted on land next door to his father’s property
in 1980. On the same plot stood a stone house with a deep underground wine cellar, built
in 1886 for the long-shuttered Western New York Wine Company. The restored building is
today home of Chateau Frank (although all wines are now under the Dr. Konstantin Frank
label). The cellar houses all of the winery’s sparkling operations.
To this day, Frank’s sparkling program remains one of the most comprehensive in
New York State, with an ever-expanding range of about 10 wines—from complex, mouthwatering Blanc de Blancs; mineral, honeyed-yet-bone dry Riesling Nature; and characterful,
more experimental “Art Series” bottlings from varieties like Pinot Meunier and Rkatsiteli.
All bottles are made in the traditional method by Frank’s dedicated sparkling winemaker,
Eric Bauman, with input from family matriarch Barbara Frank.
The Franks are no longer alone in their bubbly pursuits. In the Finger Lakes region, top
producers like Hermann J. Wiemer, Ravines and Red Tail Ridge are also producing world
class traditional method sparkling. Many wineries now include at least one sparkler in their
range. The majority sell for between $20-40 a bottle, providing excellent value.

TOP TO BOTTOM: STU GALLAGHER, COURTESY OF DR. KONSTANTIN FRANK WINERY ARCHIVES(3)

The Finger Lakes Reinvents Itself

STU GALLAGHER

Top to bottom: Commemorative
plaque celebrating Chateau Frank
built in 1886; Konstantin Frank and
his field workers circa 1920s–1930s
in Ukraine; Willy Frank presenting a
1989 Brut to Hillary Clinton for dinner service at the White House in
1996; Willy Frank in front of Chateau Frank

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“Just like with Riesling, we were the pioneers. It took 30-40 years before other quality vintners followed our lead,” says Frederick Frank, Willy’s son and current winery president. “I think
the next big buzz will be premium sparkling because the same thing is happening. We’ve been
at it 20-30 years and now our neighbors are doing it, and that’s creating this buzz. One winery
can’t do it, but a collection of quality wineries can create that buzz.”

Island Bubbles
The buzz is happening in other corners of New York State, too. Southeast of the Finger Lakes,
Long Island is also proving a stellar spot for sparkling wine, not only because they quench the
thirst of New York City weekenders and suit the region’s beachy vibes, but also because they’re
a good fit with Long Island’s terroir and provide stylistic consistencies year to year.
“Our privileged location and terroir of sandy, loamy soils surrounded by three bodies of
water allows us to express through the grapes a rare finesse, with a unique elegance,” says Gilles
Martin, the winemaker at Sparkling Pointe, New York State’s only winery dedicated solely to
traditional method bubbles.
French expat Martin, who was born “at the gates of Champagne,” has been instrumental
in carving Long Island’s burgeoning bubbly reputation. With over 30 years of global winemaking experience, including with Champagne Louis Roederer’s California outpost, Roederer
Estate, Martin settled in Long Island in 1997, helped establish many of the region’s wineries
and was brought on by Sparkling Pointe’s owners, Tom and Cynthia Rosicki, when it was
founded in 2002.
Martin now produces around 10 traditional method sparkling wines, all from Champagne
varieties. More than 20 years in, he has proven Long Island can offer a unique yet still-classic
style of bubbly, with naturally high acidity and a distinctive maritime saltiness.

DOUG YOUNG PHOTO (3)

Top to bottom:
Head winemaker Gilles Martin; production winemaker
Andrew Rockwell preparing
for disgorgement; Rockwell
hand disgorges a bottle of Topaz Impérial Sparkling Rosé

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 95

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Ben Riccardi with pastureraised pigs used as part of
the soil-building program

RIMA BRINDAMOUR FOR OSMOTE WINES

Pét Nat and History
on Repeat
New York wineries excel not just with traditional method sparklers. Pét nat, Champagne’s lightly fizzy sibling, has shot to
popularity over the past decade alongside
the natural wine movement. In a moment
of history repeating itself, naturally highacid hybrid and native grape varieties are
enjoying a revival, particularly from naturalleaning producers drawn to the environmental sustainability of more diseaseresistant longstanding regional varieties.
Producers are also responding to today’s
generation of tastemakers—the 21st century’s version of the antiquated Boston literati—as sommeliers and beverage directors
in the country’s trendiest wine bars celebrate all things natural, accessible and antiestablishment. Hybrid and native-based
pét nats, both in story and in style, are,
therefore, perfectly on trend. They allow
producers who may not have access to traditional method equipment to craft bubbles
and have fun doing it.
“These wines occupy an accessible price
point that puts wine back into even the
most casual hang with your friends, hopefully democratizing wine after a lot of years
of stodginess,” says Ben Riccardi, winemaker
and owner of Osmote Wines on Seneca Lake,
whose porch-pounding red and white “This
is Pét Nat” bubbles, made from hybrids
Marquette and Cayuga White, sell for $24
and $20 respectively.
Creative producers across the Empire
State, from Channing Daughters in Long
Island to Hudson-Chatham and Wild Arc
Farm in the Hudson Valley, to Living Roots
and Barry Family Cellars in the Finger Lakes,
are making hybrid pét nats of all colors,
shapes and sizes, from a myriad of varieties
that proved New York capable of crafting
bubbles that suit a fickle climate and even
more fickle palates.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 97

TOP

BEERS
This year’s list incorporates
the best in both innovation
and tradition.

BY JOHN HOLL

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A RS H A L L T ROY

he beer industry stands at a crossroads. As consumer interests continue to shift, brewers are working to innovate.
They are experimenting with flavors and processes, looking
to find ways to bring exciting experiences to the glass. Brewers are
also returning to roots, working to perfect humble styles without
bells and whistles.
For beer drinkers this means a chance to drink familiar favorites while seeking out new ones. It also shows a maturity among
98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

STYLING BY JESSICA ZINDREN

brewers who thrive on innovation but respect history. As the United
States approaches 10,000 breweries, the industry has uncertainty
about the future, but a growing sense of purpose.
This list represents the very best submitted to Wine Enthusiast and tasted throughout 2023. From the relatively new cold IPA
styles to more staid representations in porter and stout, the flavors
use the very best in common and uncommon ingredients. Barrelaged beers maintain popularity as brewers seek to get the most

out of the wood. Saison and wheat beers remain versatile players
in an endless sea of India pale ales. Fruit beers continue to become
punchier, sweeter, tangier and more colorful.
While many of the national and business news headlines have
focused on international conglomerates duking it out over the top
lager spot, the smaller brewers—as highlighted here—are going for
depth of flavor and reviving historical recipes to tempt taste buds.
Dark lagers, from Czech-style to Schwarzbier, are having a minirenaissance as well. Those categories should continue to grow in

the new year.
Some of these beers, like the barrel-aged beers and other highabv offerings, can be cellared for additional transformation of flavors. However, all can—and should—be drunk when released, as
the brewers intended.
This list also highlights that real gems are found among the
smaller brewers, not just the national players. It’s a good reason
and reminder to go off the beaten path and into taprooms and local bottle shops to see what’s new and ready to drink.

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 99

TOP 50 BEERS I 2023

3
97

Blackberry Farm Lemon Groove (Cold
IPA; Blackberry Farm Brewery, TN) An
enjoyable diversion from the norm with rich lemon
herb and a floral herbal quality at the forefront. The
lemon comes on in additional layers, including candied peel and lemon verbena. It still finishes dry,
with a lager snap. Pair with summer vegetables or a
simple roasted chicken to bring out the best in both.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $13/12oz 6-pack

4
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98

Bissell Brothers Monolith (barrelaged ale; Bissell Brothers, ME). A
decadent barley wine gracefully aged in spent bourbon barrels, this highlights toffee, vanilla, wood and
stone fruit. Full-bodied with silky carbonation, the
ale shows age in a well-executed, oxidized way. It
has all the personality the style demands, with wellhidden abv and a savory finish.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15/500ml

Fiction Alternate Present (Schwarzbier; Fiction Brewing, CO). Aromas of
lightly roasted dark malts carry an earthy fruitiness
along with fun sweetness. The roast remains easy
and allows for a crisp lager quality to pop through.
Wafts of fresh marshmallow fluff come through toward the finish, giving the drink a dessert-like bent.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $14/16oz 4-pack

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Edmund’s Oast Leather Jacket (porter; Edmund’s Oast; SC). With a soft and
spicy cola-like note and a slightly roasted disposition,
this snazzy porter has just a touch of alcohol heat. Perfect for outdoor drinking in the swing seasons.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $13/16oz 4-pack

6
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Urban Artifact Terrible Lizard (barrelaged ale; Urban Artifact, OH). Pouring a
rich shade of royal purple, this fresh yet fermented
berry-forward ale has a great amount of tartness,
pucker and depth. Lightly carbonated, it offers a
green raspberry note midpalate and a dry finish. It’s
a “stop and think about the contents of the glass”
beer.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35/6.3oz 4-pack

Goldfinger Original Lager (lager;
Goldfinger Brewing, IL). Some of the
best lagers you drink are the ones that don’t require
a lot of thinking. Crisp, slightly sweet, earthy hops
and easy drinking. It’s only after a while in the glass
and many sips that the well-constructed nature of
the beer comes to the forefront of the mind. This is
one such lager. Expertly crafted, balanced and executed, this is a special lager for everyday enjoyment.
abv: 5.2%
Price: $13/16oz 4-pack

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

7
97

Lamplighter Some Like it Cold (Cold
IPA; Lamplighter Brewing, MA). Bursting with hop-derived tropical fruit aromas, this IPA
brings juicy character to the forefront with pleasing bitterness lurking behind. Sweet vanilla and
torched-sugar flavors arrive midpalate before a dry
finish. Tropical vibes present, no matter the weather.
abv: 6.2%
Price: $17/16oz 4-pack

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Pure Project Diamond Dust (India
pale ale; Pure Project, CA). Hazy of the
highest order, this juicy but still bitter IPA has layers
of coconut, warm citrus, tropical fruit and dankness.
A thoughtful example of the style.
abv: 6.7%
Price: $22/16oz 4-pack

9
96

Wren House Valley Beer (American
lager; Wren House Brewing, AZ). Pure
and simple, this beer is a canvas for all of its parts
to shine. A soft water profile combined with sweet,
crackery malt, grassy herbal hops and a crisp clean
yeast finish. It takes a lot of work to make a beer simply enjoyable.
abv: 4.6%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

10
96

Boulevard Tank 7 (Saison; Boulevard
Brewing, MO). The flagship of the Missouri brewery, this lively, well-carbonated saison
has some earthy hops, spicy pepper and mulled citrus on the nose and palate. A full body hides the high
abv well. Pair with mussels.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $16/12oz 6-pack

11
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Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold (Dortmunder; Great Lakes Brewing, OH).
Pouring a deep copper with a touch of chill haze,
this rich and smooth lager brings both floral hop
bitterness and toasted caramel malt sweetness to
the glass. A lager of distinction that pairs well with
roasts of all kinds.
abv: 5.8%
Price: $11/12oz 6-pack

12
96

Grimm Weisse Grimm Artisanal Ales
(Hefeweizen; Grimm Artisanal Ales,
NY). Break out the tall Weiss glasses and give this
a vigorous pour. Spicy clove and underripe banana
aromas are prominent and always present, with an
herbal spiciness that grows a bit with each sip. It remains refreshing and enjoyable from start to finish.
abv: 5.5%
Price: $13/16oz 4-pack

13
96

Benchtop Polotmavy 12° (Czech Ruby
Lager; Benchtop Brewing, VA). A lovely
dark-ruby-colored lager, this offers aromas of sweet
berries and fruits mixed with caramel malt and
burnt sugar. Light and easy drinking, with a slight
hop-spice kick toward the finish.
abv: 4.8%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

18
96

Westbound & Down Louie (barrelaged ale; Westbound & Down, CO).
Lovely aromas of toffee, raisin, sweet chocolate and
leather combine into a slow, enjoyable sipper of a
barley wine. Warmth from the wood adds a new layer
of richness. Finishes with a touch of heat but smooth.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32/8oz 4-pack

14
96

Samuel Adams Cold IPA (Cold IPA;
Boston Beer Co., MA). From a brewery
that knows how to deftly maneuver in the lager
space, this well-hopped IPA is golden and clear as
a bell, with a modest head that lasts and laces the
glass. The earthy hops are never overwhelming but
add to a noticeable bitterness that engages the olfactory senses.
abv: 6%
Price: $8/12oz 6-pack

Russian River Porter (porter; Russian
River Brewing, CA). This everyday drinking porter helps you look forward to every day. A
slight vanilla character mixes well with a subtle darkroast maltiness, followed by just a splash of spicy and
herbal pine hops. A mix of Old World sensibility with
deft hop usage. Drink with your next burger.
Abv: 5.75%
Price: $20/16oz 4-pack

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96

Amalgam Singular Realm (barrelaged ale; Amalgam Brewing, CO). A
silky-smooth imperial stout, this offers rich layers of
espresso and fudge, with luscious undertones of vanilla and bourbon. Moderate carbonation with a darkchocolate finish. Enjoy with a slice of cheesecake.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20/12oz 4-pack

Highland Trailbound (Hazy IPA; Highland Brewing, NC). Deep straw-colored
haze, this IPA has faint tropical coconut aromas
paired with soft, overripe melon and a touch of
candied orange. Flavors twist and evolve with each
sip, letting different characteristics land at different
times, leading to an enjoyable session.
abv: 5.8%
Price: $11/12oz 6-pack

Perennial Saison Milieu (Saison; Perennial Artisan Ales, MO). Bright and
tart, this has earthy complexity that brings forth
country grass and aged hops. Golden in the glass
with slight chill haze and a fluffy, big-bubbled white
head, this saison makes the most of Brettanomyces
by offering up a complex, tangy leather finish. A collaboration with Embrace the Funk of Nashville.
abv: 4.7%
Price: $12/12oz 4-pack

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New Glarus Weizen Doppelbock (Weizenbock; New Glarus Brewing, WI).
Aromas of warm banana bread and a pronounced
malt nuttiness, this hearty garnet lager is warming and filling. The banana esters grow as the beer
warms in the glass, causing a shift in sipping toward the contemplative.
abv: NA
Price: $12/12oz 6-pack

Alesong Raspberry Parliament (Fruit
Beer; Alesong Brewing and Blending,
OR). Lovely layers of raspberry from the skin and
seeds to the flesh and tart juice cascade together on
top of woody tannins. Robust and refined, it has a faint
sweet thread that keeps acidity at bay throughout.
abv: 6.9%
Price: $18/500ml

Port City Porter (porter; Port City, VA).
Sometimes you just want a porter. A no
frills, easy-drinking, “gonna have three at the pub
before heading home” porter. With a little chocolate
and coffee roast, a kiss of hops and a medium body
that doesn’t weigh down the palate. This is that beer.
abv: 7.2%
Price: $13/12oz 6-pack

Mikerphone Step into the Freezer
(Cold IPA; Mikerphone Brewing, IL).
Well-balanced between the lager yeast and the hopforward aromas and flavors associated with an India
pale ale. Citrusy and dank, the hops are center stage
but well-backed by a soft caramel malt that adds
body and sweetness. For tailgate parties, ice fishing or anywhere a good time happens with friends
in cold weather.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

17
Von Ebert A Night in Tallin (Baltic
porter; Von Ebert Brewing, OR). This
porter is just the right amount of hearty and strong,
without being overpowering. Layers of dark chocolate, roasted espresso and spicy hop combine with
an overall nuttiness. Complex but understated, this
is one to sip and let the mind wander.
abv: 7.2%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

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96

Prison City Unicorns Coupling (Cold
IPA; Prison City Brewing, NY). With
lively warm pineapple aromas and flavors, this Cold
IPA continues to deliver with a perfumey hop bouquet and sweet malt body. Biscuit and caramel mix
well, keeping bitterness at bay.
abv: 6.2%
Price: NA/Draft

22
95

Reuben’s London Calling (English
Pale Ale; Reuben’s Brews, WA). Delightfully malt-forward pale ale that showcases
biscuit and toasted cereal along with earthy, faintly
fruity hops. An easy sipper that never lets the bitterness grow beyond pleasant and finishes clean. Put on
your favorite album or the current soccer match and
keep this close at hand.
abv: 4.7%
Price: $14/16oz 4-pack

Metazoa Whiskers on Kittens (Vienna
Lager; Metazoa Brewing, IN). Easydrinking with earthy sweetness and spicy country
hops, this Vienna lager is soft, welcoming, wellconstructed and a delight to look at in the glass. The
brewery donates profits of this beer (and others) to
animal welfare programs.
abv: 5.1%
Price: $11/16oz 4-pack

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 101

TOP 50 BEERS I 2023

Live Oak Gold (pilsner; Live Oak Brewing, TX). Snappy hops with a soft malt profile, this is a lager for relaxation. Bring it to happy
hours and parties, for quiet afternoons or loud ballparks. Well-constructed with a touch of sweet herbs
near the finish, it fits into any situation and doesn’t
demand taste bud attention.
abv: 4.8%
Price: $11/12oz 6-pack

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94

Parish Cane Brake (Wheat Ale; Parish Brewing, LA). With sweet and pleasant wheat aromas that meld into brioche, this soft
ale goes easy on the carbonation. Brewed with cane
sugar, it has earthy and restrained sweetness, with
pleasant flavors of lightly toasted crystals. Pair with
a hot afternoon and a cooler filled with ice.
abv: 4.9%
Price: $11/12oz 6-pack

Side Project Saison du Blé (Saison;
Side Project Brewing, MO). This gently tart, earthy saison makes the most of its time in
wood. With some oaky tannins midpalate and on the
finish, this thoughtful saison shows what time and
attention can achieve. Blend number 11.
abv: 6%
Price: $20/750ml

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95

Hardywood Pils (German-style lager;
Hardywood Brewery, VA). Pours golden
with vibrant biscuity aromas and green, herbal hops.
The hop presence builds quickly with each sip but
never becomes bitter, instead leaving a pleasant
earthy flavor on the palate. Finishes dry with a hint
of malt sweetness.
abv: 5.2%
Price: $11/12oz 6-pack

Schlafly Raspberry Hefeweizen (Fruit
Beer; St. Louis Beer, MO). A soft touch
of raspberry adds both color and a sweet accent to
the banana and clove nature of the base beer. They
harmonize to create a warm-weather refresher
that should be served with a handful of berries in
the glass.
abv: 4.1%
Price: $10/16oz 4-pack

Old Irving Mild Mage (English Mild;
Old Irving Brewing, IL). Sweet toffee and
treacle combine on a pleasant dark mild that offers
up light roast coffee and a touch of hop bitterness
that grows with each sip. A pub beer made to be
paired with rich meals and good company.
abv: 3.6%
Price: $10/16oz 4-pack

34
94

Wallenpaupack Largemouth (Hazy
IPA; Wallenpaupack Brewery, PA).
This hazy brew has the soul of a West Coast IPA.
It looks the hazy part and even provides a pillowy
mouthfeel. But starting at midpalate and continuing through the finish, it offers earthy, white stone
fruit and an orange-peel character that sticks to the
taste buds.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $16/19.2oz

35
94

Bonn Place Echonacht (Schwarzbier;
Bonn Place, PA). This is delightfully full
of coffee and baked-chocolate notes backed by spicy,
earthy hops. It finishes with faint fudginess and
should be paired in the evening with a good book
and solitude.
abv: NA
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

36
94

Meanwhile Secret Beach (India pale
ale; Meanwhile Brewing, TX). Bitter in
all the best places, this dank IPA layers on berry and
orange flesh along with a sweet caramel malt and a
touch of toasted country bread. Lively and looking to
be paired with spicy barbeque.
abv: 6.2%
Price: $17/16oz 4-pack

41
93

Goose Island Neon Beer Hug (Hazy
IPA; Goose Island, IL). Boozy with tropical and dank notes, this IPA brims with personality
that’s well-suited for taproom visits, airport bars
or anywhere a quick, assertive dose of juicy hops
is needed.
abv: 7%
Price: $13/12oz 6-pack

37
94

Lady Justice Chosen Family (ESB;
Lady Justice Brewing, CO). A full-bodied and light toffee-forward ale that pours garnet
brown and clear with little head. Malt nuttiness appears midpalate and dances in step with herbal, and
lemony hops. Finishes super clean and refreshing
and is best paired with a second pint.
abv: 5.6%
Price: $12/12oz 6-pack

Highland Park High 9 IPA (India pale
ale; Highland Park Brewing, CA). Created for the brewer’s ninth anniversary, this IPA
has many of the bright, hop-forward characteristics of the modern IPAs but without the full-bodied
mouthfeel. Easy-drinking with a touch of bitterness,
it’s like a summer afternoon in a can.
abv: 7%
Price: $20/16oz 4-pack

Buttonwoods Retro Innovation (ESB;
Buttonwoods Brewery, RI). By using the
nitronigation process, this already smooth ale becomes even easier to drink. With a rich, silky mouthfeel that doesn’t weigh down the palate, earthy hops,
light caramel malt, and a touch of black tea come
across in a friendly, familiar manner.
abv: 4.6%
Price: NA/16oz 4-pack

Pontoon Trail Marker (Fruit Beer; Pontoon Brewing, GA). Aromas of strawberry
lemonade with almond blossom emerge quickly and
are confirmed on the palate. This is a beer for summer twilight, a gap between lighter sips in the day
and robust ones to come at night. Not too tart, not
too sweet, and with toasted sugar threads, it’s a lot
of fun to drink.
abv: 5.2%
Price: $13/16oz 4-pack

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92

Yazoo Locale (ale; Yazoo Brewing,
TN). Proof that not all low-calorie options
have to be lacking in flavor or oomph, this cloudy
yellow ale from Embrace the Funk has a hopderived fruitiness and spiciness. A yeasty twang
comes on midpalate and boosts up the citrus on the
finish. 90 calories.
abv: 3.6%
Price: $10/12oz 6-pack

40
93

Fulton Hazy IPA (Hazy IPA; Fulton
Brewing, MN). This murky yellow, citrusforward IPA brings on soft orange with hints of
lemon blossom and lime zest. Pillowy soft with low
carbonation, it’s a warm-weather refresher.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $14/12oz 6-pack

47
92

Common Roots Party Shirt Fridays
(Fruit Beer; Common Roots, NY). This
fruited IPA manages to retain much of the hop bitterness and tropical essence of the base style while
getting a boost from funky tropical fruit and a strong
smack of citrus. Working in tandem, the fruit and
hops bring a fun experience to the palate.
abv: 6.9%
Price: $19/16oz 4-pack

39
Derive Lost Leatherman (Dark Mild;
Derive Brewing Co., OH). Fully roasted
with undertones of coffee, chocolate and carbon,
this pleasing dark ale, grows in intensity adding
fudge to the palate, with an espresso chaser. Hearty
but never overwhelming, this beer feels like it would
best be sipped in a comfortable leather chair in a
dimly lit room.
abv: 4.2%
Price: $12/16oz 4-pack

805 Cerveza (Fruit Beer; Firestone
Walker, CA). A Mexican-style lager brewed
with a hint of lime. Rather than from juice, the flavor tastes peel-derived, giving a little depth but not
acidity. Hits the spot for liquid refreshment in relaxing situations.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $11/12oz 12-pack

38
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45
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The Bruery Mischief (Belgian Golden
Ale; The Bruery, CA). Boozy and hopforward, this strong golden ale has vinous qualities that come in quick and last on the palate. The
earthy, waxy hops offer up herbal pleasantness,
with a spicy finish.
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack
abv: 8.5%

48
91

Industrial Arts Safety Glasses Pils (Pilsner; Industrial Arts, NY). A ballpark beer
without the alcohol, this clear golden yellow pilsner
has the crispness the style demands combined with
an herbal and citrus hop character. 80 calories.
abv: 0.5%
Price: $12/12oz 6-pack

49
91

Hell or High Watermelon (Fruit Beer;
21st Amendment, CA). A soft wheat beer
body lays a wonderful canvas for cucumber-skin and
melon-rind aromas that morph into pleasing watermelon after a few sips. The fruit is never overly
sweet or artificial tasting, but more akin to an earlyseason melon or natural chewing gum.
abv: 4.9%
Price: $10/12oz 6-pack

50
90

Bolero Snort Steamroom (California
Common; Bolero Snort, NJ). Ruddy tan
in color with a biscuity and brown country bread
aroma. Follows through with a dried nut quality and
a touch of earthy grass. A proper pub pint that works
with a hearty lunch.
abv: 3.5%
Price: NA/12oz 6-pack

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 103

THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST

2023, we mark the 24th anniversary of Wine Enthusiast’s Annual Wine Star Awards, honoring the individuals and companies that have
significantly contributed to the success of the wine and alcohol beverage world. In our ever-evolving industry, it’s important that we
salute the dedicated professionals and progressive thinkers who have shown initiative and drive. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and social visionaries, the honorees you’ll learn about on these pages have balanced business acumen with action, making steps to improve the future of wine and alcohol beverage.
Nominated by members of our global sales, events, marketing and editorial divisions with final selections made by our executive publishing
team, winners will be honored at our black-tie gala in February 2024. For details on the event and further insight on our selection process, visit
wineenthusiast.com/WSA2023Winners. And on the pages ahead, meet the shining stars of 2023.

TOM ARENA

WINEENTHUSIAST.COM | 105

JOSEPH E. GALLO
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

During a decades-long tenure at E. & J. Gallo
Winery, Joseph E. Gallo calmly charted a course
for the world’s largest wine producer.
created and acquired during his
tenure as CEO, which ended in
2020. These include the perennial
best-selling Barefoot brand, Dark
Horse, Talbott Vineyards, Louis
M. Martini Winery, J Vineyards &
Winery and Orin Swift Cellars in
California, to name just a few.
Under his leadership, the
company launched and rapidly
expanded into the spirits category
with New Amsterdam gin and

“There are opportunities every day.
The secret is to see
them.”

vodka, Familia Camarena Tequila
and forged partnerships with
luxury spirit producers including
The Dalmore Scotch whisky. It
also added imports to its portfolio,
including LaMarca Prosecco and
Whitehaven.
Gallo explained his approach to
growing the business in a Wine
Enthusiast article in 2012 when
he won the Wine Star Award
for Person of the Year. He said
expansions into new product
categories must be based on the
potential for huge growth.
“There has to be a certain
minimal scale [to everything we do]
or else it doesn’t fit into the plan,”

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

he said. “When things come up, you
have to move fast. And we can make
decisions very quickly,” due to the
company’s family-owned structure.
“There are opportunities every
day,” Gallo said. “The secret is to
see them.” The only thing that
scares him, he asserted, “is all the
opportunities you don’t see.”
Beyond its many launches,
acquisitions and vastly expanded
revenue (estimated by Forbes
at $5 billion in 2019), the Gallo
organization that he helped mold
can also claim successes of other
kinds. The company now counts its
commitment to sustainability in
environmental, economic and social
equity areas as a company value.
Programs for diversity and
inclusion include supporting its
own Employee Resource Groups
such as Latino Association for
Career Advancement, Women

of Wine & Spirits, Pride, Gallo
Veterans Organization and the
Gallo African American Network.
The company won LEED Gold
Status for its Dry Creek Building in
Modesto, California, was the first
winery in the U.S. to receive ISO
14001 certification for rigorous
environmental standards in its
wineries and was ranked No. 14 out
of the top 100 Best Places to Work
in the nation by Glassdoor.
For a lifetime of stellar
accomplishments that benefited
his family, his employees, the
wine and spirits trade and three
generations of consumers, Wine
Enthusiast is proud to honor
Joseph E. Gallo with the Lifetime
Achievement Award.
–Jim Gordon

E. & J. GALLO WINERY

When Joseph E. Gallo took the
reins of the E. & J. Gallo Winery in
2000, he had already been in the
family business for decades. But
he had big shoes to fill, those of his
father, Ernest Gallo, who cofounded
the Modesto, California-based
winery with his brother Julio Gallo
in 1933.
During his 20-year stint as
president and chief executive
officer, Joseph E. Gallo calmly
charted a course for the
world’s largest wine producer
through waters crowded with
competitors, constantly discovering
opportunities for growth and
identifying the top talent within
the company and among family
members to pursue the company’s
growth strategies.
Under his leadership, the
privately held wine company
welcomed a third and fourth
generation of Gallo family members
into the business and virtually
reinvented it in the process. Gallo’s
wine and spirits empire expanded
into more imports, more exports,
more spirits and ownership of
more luxury wine properties in
California—including Stagecoach
Vineyard in Napa Valley—and
Washington.
A number of Joseph E. Gallo’s
contributions to the company, to
the wine and spirits industry and
to consumers around the world,
can be tallied along with the brands

JOHN SUTTON
PERSON OF THE YEAR

John Sutton, CEO of The Wine Group, is a
leader in creating quality wines at accessible
price points.
acquiring Cooper & Thief, The
Dreaming Tree and Charles Smith
Wines. In the past decade in his
roles at TWG, Sutton has helped
quadruple the annual retail sales
of TWG’s $12+ portfolio.
In April, TWG announced a
national distribution agreement
with Southern Glazer’s Wine
& Spirits, ensuring that TWG
will have, Sutton explains,
“tremendous route-to-market
efficiencies, national accounts
reach and industry data and
insights.”
While TWG has been an
industry leader for 42 years,
focusing on helping the 60+
privately held and managementowned brands in its stable produce
excellent wines, the Livermore,
California-based company has
become increasingly invested in
sustainability in all of its forms,
from the environment to its people.
“We believe in producing wine
using sustainable practices to
foster healthy land and agriculture
for generations to come,” Sutton
explains. “All TWG California
vineyards are 100% certified
sustainable or biodynamic, and all of
our California production facilities
are 100% certified sustainable.”
It also comes down to the
culture TWG cultivates at the
wineries it acquires.
“We’re very focused on keeping
families engaged in the wineries

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“We believe in
producing wine
using sustainable
practices to foster
healthy land and
agriculture for
generations to
come.”

they created and have invested
in so much, financially and
emotionally,” Sutton says.
That passion and commitment
has helped earn TWG more than
4,000 awards since 2010 alone,
including Franzia’s 20-year reign as
the world’s number one wine brand
and Cupcake Vineyard’s status as
the number one premium wine
brand by volume.
TWG is the second-largest
wine producer in the world and
also imports wine from several
countries, including New Zealand,
Chile, Spain and Argentina. In other
words, TWG’s power and sway
would be tough to overestimate.
With Sutton leading the company
with such a conscientious and
holistic approach to environmental

and economic sustainability, that
means that not just the wineries
under TWG’s umbrella—but the
entire wine industry—will be
headed to a better place.
“The wine industry needs to
evolve the way we market to
effectively capture a more diverse
mix of consumers,” Sutton says.
“That means innovating on
packaging format and sizes, taking
a leadership role on nutrition and
ingredient labeling, creating quality
offerings at affordable price points
and producing wine sustainably.”
For that, Wine Enthusiast is
proud to recognize John Sutton as
the 2023 Person of the Year.
— Kathleen Willcox

RON ESSEX PHOTOGRAPHY

While John Sutton’s route to his
current post as chief executive
officer of The Wine Group (TWG),
may be unconventional, he says it
has ensured that he’s achieved the
kind of well-rounded experience
necessary to lead a company through
challenging times, fierce economic
headwinds and unprecedented
environmental uncertainties.
In the 1990s, Sutton served in
the White House under President
Clinton as special assistant to the
counselor to the president and
went on to work as an attorney,
eventually working as outside
counsel to The Wine Group as
an attorney for the firm Howard,
Rice, Nemerovski, Canady, Falk
& Rabkin. Sutton officially joined
TWG in 2007, rising through the
ranks from his original post as
general counsel to chief financial
officer and now his current role as
chief executive officer, a post he
attained in 2022.
“As the industry and consumer
preferences evolve, you’ll see us
continue to innovate,” Sutton
says, explaining that TWG will
outmaneuver obstacles through
“in-house development, strategic
partnerships and acquisitions and
continue to grow our premium wine
offerings, as well as expand into the
broader adult beverage category.”
Since Sutton’s appointment
as CEO, he has actively pursued
additional premium wine holdings,

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CAROLYN WENTE
AMERICAN WINE LEGEND

Carolyn Wente’s lifelong leadership as a woman
in a male-dominated industry, faith in her family
business and strength during difficult times
makes her a true wine industry legend.

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“Being able to
make shifts in our
vision ... were big
milestones.”

hundreds of other wineries
are following today. She began
bringing more consumers to
Livermore with a new culinary
garden, a restaurant serving farmto-table cuisine, a Greg Normandesigned golf course and outdoor
concerts by big names like James
Taylor, Sheryl Crow and Elvis
Costello.
With Carolyn in charge of sales
and marketing, oldest brother Eric
heading wine production, and next
oldest brother Philip managing the
vineyards and a cattle operation,
these fourth-generation siblings
reimagined their family business.
Carolyn’s leadership over the
decades has helped keep Wente
wines popular and the winery in
the family’s hands.
The death of their father, Karl, in
1977 landed the responsibility of
management on the siblings while
Carolyn was studying at Stanford
University. Her brothers were
already working for the winery
and waited to ask for Carolyn’s
help until she had finished school

and worked for Crocker Bank as a
financial analyst for a few years.
Their father’s untimely death left
an unexpected taxation burden to
overcome. An earthquake in 1981
damaged 90% of the winery’s
stainless-steel tanks. The Wente
portfolio was wrong for the times,
consisting of 90% white wines
while their ever-multiplying
competitors were shifting to reds.
Since the Wente wines are
sourced primarily from their own
vineyards, a costly transition
to red-wine varieties began. An
emphasis on export markets grew,
too, so that today they take about
35% of Wente-produced wine.
“I think being able to make
shifts in our vision of where we
wanted the company to go were big
milestones,” she says.
When asked about her
experience as one of the few
women wine executives at the

time, she says that when Eric
became chair and she stepped
up to CEO, both brothers were
extremely supportive.
“Externally, I would say, when
I joined the business, I was an
anomaly out in the marketplace,”
Carolyn adds.
She notes that, today, Wente
Family Estates qualifies as a
woman-owned company, with her
four nieces all involved in addition
to herself, tipping the scales away
from her brothers and nephew
Karl, chief winemaker.
“But,” she adds, “you can’t just
have a conversation about women.
[Men] are equally our consumer,
our work family, our community.”
For her lifelong leadership,
dedication and innovation, Wine
Enthusiast is proud to honor
Carolyn Wente as the American
Wine Legend. –JG

WENTE FAMILY ESTATES

Carolyn Wente’s early career
running the family winery with
her two brothers was clouded
by death, taxes, and earthquake
and fierce competition. But she
rose to the challenge, something
that she’s done time and again
over her 40-year career with the
Livermore-based winery Carl H.
Wente founded in 1883. Today,
the Wente operation is the longest
continuously family-owned and
operated winery in the U.S.
In the early 1980s, Carolyn
was among the first women to
take a leading ownership and
management role at a major
California winery. Today, she is
the first woman recognized with
an American Wine Legend Wine
Star Award.
Carolyn was instrumental in
reshaping the family business,
which at the time was respected
for viticultural and enological
leadership but was perceived
as stodgy in the marketplace.
Beginning at age 25, rising to the
role of CEO, and now serving as
fourth-generation winegrower
and board chairman, Carolyn took
seriously the job of burnishing
Wente Family Estates’ brand and
preparing to turn it over in good
health to the fifth generation.
In the ‘80s and ‘90s, Carolyn
led several initiatives in directto-consumer marketing that

Organic since 2002 and certified as the largest
Biodynamic® vineyard in North America in 2016,
King Estate is at the forefront of sustainable wine
production. With our recent innovative glass solution,
we have significantly reduced our carbon footprint,
demonstrating our commitment to a greener and more
environmentally conscious approach to winemaking.
This innovation is a significant step forward in our
commitment to sustainability.
Glass bottles can account for nearly 50% of wine’s
carbon footprint due to manufacturing and
transportation.

King Estate moved all glass bottle manufacturing to
North America, reducing weight and freight.
75% of our bottles are now lighter, reducing our annual
glass weight by 128 metric tons.
These combined changes reduce our carbon footprint
by 2,448 metric tons of CO2 annually. That’s the
equivalent of removing 353 cars, each driving 20,000
miles every year.

ALESSIO PLANETA
WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR

In the world of wine, few stories are as
captivating as that of Alessio Planeta and his
influential positioning of Sicilian wine on the
global stage.

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“Our companies
are a hymn to the
landscape.”
protocol for responsible Sicilian
winemaking.
Alessio explains, “Our
companies are a hymn to the
landscape, to sustainability and to
the environment.” Today, Planeta’s
properties bear fruit not only in
the form of wine grapes but also
olives, almonds, wheat, chickpeas
and livestock. He articulates that
his team considers its properties
holistically, stating, “We have a
vision of agriculture as a farm, as
an agricultural organism. This is
essential to us.”
Continuing the legacy initiated
by his forebear, Diego Planeta,
Alessio celebrates the triumph
of assembling an exceptional
team that has navigated through
seasons of abundance as well
as times of adversity. Alessio
says, “I am truly proud of having
built beautiful, beautiful places
together with my family, together
with the whole team, where truly
the total search for harmony, for
the Tao, in the places should also
be what we try to do in the wine.”
Alessio’s winemaking
philosophy is rooted in the

teachings of his mentor, the iconic
enologist Carlo Corino. Guided
by this luminary who stressed
technical expertise and profound
respect for terroir, Alessio’s
approach is characterized by
precise agronomic choices and
cellar practices that minimize
intervention.
Sicily’s diversity presents a
unique opportunity, and Alessio’s
mission is to translate the essence
of each Planeta parcel to the glass.
“In Sicily, we work with 30 grape
varieties, with terroirs ranging
from the sea to Etna, with soils of
all kinds,” says Alessio. “Therefore,
this is my main purpose—to
transform the different Sicilian
territories into our glasses.”

Alessio’s journey in the world
of wine transcends the story of
a typical wine producer—it is a
tribute to the spirit of Sicilian
winemaking. Planeta’s reputation
is a narrative of cultural exchange
and global acclaim, delivered
through products of indisputable
quality.
“It’s truly incredible today to
see how many wine tourists from
all over the world come to visit
Planeta, come to visit Sicily, and
this is clearly a beautiful thing,”
says Alessio. “Most truly, wine is a
product that gives the opportunity
to compete and compare yourself
with the whole world.”
—Jill Barth

MARIUS MELE

The aesthetic qualities of Planeta
wines capture the appealing
essence of Sicily. Despite
occupying a relatively small corner
of the winemaking world, these
wines have found resonance with
a broad international audience.
As Planeta’s CEO and chief
winemaker, Alessio Planeta sees
this as a harmonious and intricate
synergy that fuels his work.
Each bottle that a customer
savors becomes a bridge between
the island and wine enthusiasts
worldwide. Alessio eloquently
expresses this concept: “The
extraordinary thing about all of
this is to imagine how from little
Menfi, from this little area so far
from the world—so isolated until
a few decades ago—one could,
thanks to wine, go around the
world and bring a message which
is that of the quality of the wines
we make, but which is also that of
this place.”
For Planeta, sustainability is
not a mere nod to environmental
and social substance, rather it is
the core of their operation. As a
member of the 17th generation
of the Planeta family, Alessio
embraces the concept of durable
agriculture with total devotion.
Planeta holds the distinction of
being fully organic and stands as a
founding member of the SOSTAIN
program, which provides a

YOUR TRUSTED SOURCE CELEBRATING 20 YEARS (2004-2024)
ZOLO
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
92 pts, James Suckling

ALTOCEDRO
La Consulta, Mendoza
Top 100, Wine Spectator

GEN 5
Lodi, California
Best Buy,
Wine Enthusiast

TAPIZ
San Pablo, Mendoza
92 pts, Wine & Spirits

LAMADRID
Agrelo, Mendoza
92 pts, Wine & Spirits

TASSAJARA
Monterey, California
91 pts, Wine Enthusiast

OSMOSIS
0 Sugar, Reduced Calories,
& 100% Taste

TAONGA
Marlborough, New Zealand
90 pts, Wine & Spirits

ANKO
Salta, Argentina
90 pts, Wine Advocate

LAS CARTAS
Casablanca, Chile
Best Buy, Wine Enthusiast

ZAHA
Paraje Altamira, Mendoza
93 pts, Wine Advocate

MANOTSURU
KURA SELECTIONS
Niigata, Japan
Gold Medal, National Sake Competition

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*Wine Enthusiast reviews: Altocedro Malbec Reserve '18 (93 pts, Pub Date 7/1/2021); Tassajara Pinot Noir '20 (91 pts, Editors' Choice, 10/1/2022); Gen5 Chardonnay '21 (Best Buy 89 pts, 12/1/2022);
Las Cartas Sauvignon Blanc '21 (Best Buy, 9/1/2022).

CHRISTIAN WYLIE
WINE EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR

Christian Wylie is a champion of Uruguayan
wines and brings passion and enthusiasm
with him everywhere he goes.

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“There are still
many great things
to accomplish.”

wineries in Chile and Uruguay.
Ultimately, he fell in love with
the land of Tannat, where he also
met his Uruguayan wife and now
resides with his family.
Hired by Alejandro Bulgheroni a
few years after he founded Garzón,
Wylie was quickly promoted
to managing director in 2016,
increasing worldwide sales from
25,000 cases to over 150,000.
However, selling Uruguayan wine
was only the beginning. The
executive successfully positioned
Bodega Garzón as one of the top
producers of fine wine in South
America. In 2017, its flagship
wine, Balasto, entered La Place
de Bordeaux, making it the third
South American wine to be
distributed by the négociants,
following Almaviva and Seña. This
was a significant milestone for
the young winery and burgeoning
region.
Although having Alberto
Antonini as a wine consultant and
a talented local winemaker like
Germán Bruzzone might suggest
that selling wines of the quality

of Bodega Garzón’s would be
relatively easy, this is not achieved
without effort as there are many
excellent wines worldwide from
regions with a long winemaking
history. However, Wylie managed
to position this new winery in 60
countries. “The key to overcoming
challenges is perseverance,” he
says. Wylie explains that being
humble and persistent is the best
way to approach the market.
After many years in the industry,
he firmly believes that to succeed,
“you always have to be on the
road,” and emphasizes that the

saying “out of sight, out of mind”
is true, especially in the U.S. With
its wines available in 42 states,
one can say that Bodega Garzón
has made a lasting impression on
American consumers.
But, Wylie points out, “There
are still many great things to
accomplish.” For his perseverance,
work ethic and passion for sharing
Uruguayan wines around the
world, Wine Enthusiast proudly
honors Christian Wylie as Wine
Executive of the Year in the 2023
Wine Star Awards.
—Jesica Vargas

RODRIGO GUILLENEA

“I’m passionate about wine,” says
Christian Wylie, managing director
of Bodega Garzón. He recently
returned from a presentation
in ProWine São Paulo and was
preparing for a trip to the U.S.
the following week. Selling and
educating people around the
world about Tannat from a small
wine region in South America
is a challenging task. But Wylie
is someone who embraces
challenges.
Bodega Garzón, located in
Maldonado, Uruguay, holds
a Leadership in Energy &
Environmental Design certificate,
offers luxury experiences to nearly
32,000 visitors annually and
houses a restaurant owned by
renowned chef Francis Mallmann.
Wylie’s first visit to Uruguay
was when he was 25 years old
and playing rugby. Little did he
know then how much this country
would impact his personal and
professional life. Born in Chile,
the former rugby player studied
agricultural engineering with a
specialization in fruticulture and
enology at the Catholic University.
He furthered his studies at U.C.
Davis in California and completed
a postgraduate senior management
program at ESE Business School
in Chile. Before joining Bodega
Garzón, Wylie worked as a
winemaker and manager at various

PASQUA VIGNETI E CANTINE
INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR

The Pasqua family lays claim to over 100 years of legacy in the wine industry, but never rests
on their laurels.

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Riccardo, Umberto, Alessandro Pasqua

The family created an estate that not just represents the vines they
grow or the wines they make, but the lifestyle, art and culture that has
always inspired their work.
future generations of the Pasqua
family and their employees can
continue the work in a manner
that benefits all.
With their success, the family
were called to find a way to aid
other visionaries who saw the
world in an unconventional
way. They began an initiative
called “Talent Never Tasted

Better,” sponsoring visual artists,
dancers, musicians, chefs and
athletes to help them realize their
dreams. The sponsorship enables
these individuals to produce
unique, often genre-bending
ideas that push the boundaries
in their respective artistic fields,
just as the Pasqua family has
done with their wines.

For their drive, passion and
vision to use their family legacy
for the betterment of the wine
industry, Wine Enthusiast
is proud to honor Pasqua
Vigneti e Cantine, the “House
of the Unconventional,” as the
Innovator of the Year in the 2023
Wine Star Awards.
—Jeff Porter

PASQUA WINES

The Pasqua family lays claim to
more than a 100-year-legacy of
grape growing and winemaking
in Italy’s Valpolicella region. The
generational connection has led
to some great achievements for
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, but the
current generation is not resting
on the laurels of their greatgreat-grandparents.
For them, the inflection point
came in August of 2014 when
Chairman Umberto Pasqua
and his two sons, Riccardo and
Alessandro (CEO and president,
respectively) unveiled a plan to
revolutionize the family business
and create an estate that would
not only represent the vines they
grow or the wines they make,
but also the lifestyle, art and
culture that has always inspired
their work. The family blended
their legacy with the history of
their hometown of Verona and
the art that surrounds them
with the release of the “Romeo
& Juliet Passiomento” Rosso, an
appasiomento-style wine blended
among Corvina, Croatina and
Merlot—tradition and innovation
in a bottle. The wine became an
immediate success.
Simultaneous to this release,
Pasqua achieved Equalitas
certification, which validates
that their sustainable practices
are integrated in the vineyards
as well as the economic and
social fabrics of the community.
These practices ensure that the

2023 WINNER

AMERICAN
OF
WINERYTHEYEAR
©2023 BLACK STA LLION E STATE W INERY | BLACKSTA LLION W INERY.COM | ENJOY R E SPONSIBLY | A LL R IGHTS R E SERV ED

CARLTON MCCOY
SOCIAL VISIONARY

Carlton McCoy’s leadership in the wine
industry has opened the doors for dozens to
create careers of their own.

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“If you want something to be better,
just change it.”
for a small organization because
everyone’s really committed, and
we don’t just talk about things—
we get them done.”
As cofounder and CEO of
Lawrence Wine Estates, McCoy
heads legendary Napa Valley
estates such as Heitz Cellar,
Burgess Cellars and Stony Hill
Vineyards as well as brands like
Ink Grade, Brendel and Haynes
Vineyard and Château Lascombes
in Bordeaux. And as managing
partner of Demeine Estates, he
oversees a portfolio that includes
the Lawrence Wine Estates wines
as well as other import partners
such as Legras et Haas, Domaine
de Montille, La Chablisienne and
Mazzei. He began in these roles
in 2019, a year prior to the one
that would completely change the
world as we knew it: California
wildfires, a global pandemic,
racial unrest on a national scale.
But instead of overthinking these
things, McCoy made a conscious
decision to lead with instinct and
move with purpose.
“I’m a big believer that if you
want something to be normalized,
just normalize it,” he says. “If you

want something to be better, just
change it.”
This is the strategy he employs
as a leader in the wine world
and hopes to inspire others
to take on as well. Among his
key hirings is Philana Bouvier,
president of Demeine Estates,
one of very few women of
color in any type of leadership
position in the importing sector
of the wine business. With
its Dream It, Live It initiative,
Demeine Estates aims to use
its established network to
provide unique opportunities for
minority-owned businesses and
organizations promoting social
responsibility committed to

changing the wine industry (such
as The Roots Fund).
McCoy comments that receiving
this honor isn’t really about him,
it’s about recognition for the
work and results that come with
taking action in a genuine way.
“I just hope to be an example for
people to act on the things they
say they care about,” he says.
For his dedication to diversity
and inclusivity and ability to
take action and make change
happen within the wine industry,
Wine Enthusiast is proud to
name Carlton McCoy the Social
Visionary of the Year in the 2023
Wine Star Awards.
—Chasity Cooper

ALEXANDER RUBIN

“When I first started studying
wine, I only knew of two Black
sommeliers—Andre [Hueston]
Mack and Nadine Brown. It was
very rare at the time to see myself
in the industry,” says Carlton
McCoy of becoming a master
sommelier in 2013. “Had I an
organization then that could have
given me a sense of community
and guidance, it would’ve made
the road a lot easier.”
This difficulty of starting his
wine journey, coupled with
participating in the Careers
Through Culinary Arts Program
(C-CAP), is ultimately what
inspired McCoy to cofound The
Roots Fund with Ikimi DuboseWoodson and Tahiirah Habibi
in 2020.
“From the beginning, we
knew we had to address the
lack of wine education and
career opportunities available to
communities of color,” he says.
The hard work of the small-yetmighty board of directors of The
Roots Fund has, over the course of
just four years, opened the doors
for dozens of students who receive
funding for wine education as well
as hands-on experience in various
sectors of the wine industry.
McCoy credits his cofounder and
fellow board member DuboseWoodson for her passionate and
focused approach to achieving
goals quickly. “We get a lot done

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA
WINE REGION OF THE YEAR

In Charlottesville, history, innovation and collaboration are reflected in the high-quality
wines produced.
Often referred to as the birthplace
of American wine, Charlottesville’s
wine history dates to the days of
Thomas Jefferson, who called the
area home.

“Jefferson had a vision that the
Charlottesville area could be a
region teeming with grapevines,
and he even tried his hand at
growing grapes to make his dream
a reality,” says Brantley Ussery,
director of marketing and public
relations at Charlottesville
Albemarle Convention and
Visitors Bureau, who notes that
the founding Father’s goal was to
position Virginia as a winemaking
region that could rival the best
Old World wines in quality.
Unfortunately, Jefferson’s grapegrowing experiments failed, and he
never saw this vision come to life.
But in the 1970s, a new
generation of winemakers worked
to find which vines thrive best in
the cool-climate region and may
have finally fulfilled Jefferson’s
vision. The Jeffersonian Wine
Grape Growers Society (JWGGS)

was established in the ’80s
as a group that combines the
knowledge and resources of the
local industry.
Today, the Monticello Wine Trail
connects over 40 wineries in and
around Charlottesville. Those
wineries produce a broad range
of lauded wines—from classic
Bordeaux varieties to carbonic
Chenin Blancs and even the oftoverlooked Petit Manseng—and
have made the region a destination
for all wine lovers.
Sustainable viticulture
is especially important to
Charlottesville. Collectively,
the wineries have not only been

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

adapting to climate change but
have also implemented numerous
initiatives to mitigate it as well—
from implementing solar panels
and composting programs to
championing biodiversity in
the vineyards and cultivation of
hybrid varieties.
“There’s a spirit of collaboration
among those wineries and
winemakers on the trail, and
that collaborative spirit helps
foster new and innovative ideas,”
explains Ussery. That collaboration
and innovation is reflected in the
high-quality wines produced,
many of which have garnered
national and international acclaim.

That said, Charlottesville is
also a place where even those
beginning their wine journey will
feel included. “We want people
who visit our wine region to feel
welcome and know that there
aren’t any wrong ways to enjoy
wine,” says Ussery.
For its place in American
wine history and ability to
move toward a future of winestyle diversity and consumer
inclusivity, Wine Enthusiast is
proud to honor Charlottesville
with the 2023 Wine Region of
the Year Wine Star Award.
—Jacy Topps

SANJAY SUCHAK

“There’s a spirit
of collaboration
among wineries and
winemakers, and
that collaborative
spirit helps foster
new and innovative
ideas.”

BLACK STALLION ESTATE
AMERICAN WINERY OF THE YEAR

Although it is one of the younger
wineries in the Napa Valley, Black
Stallion Estate Winery’s history
began almost a century ago when
Gaspare and Caterina Indelicato
immigrated from Sicily to the
United States. While the couple
planted a single vineyard in the
Central Coast to begin their wine
journey, its legacy continued to
expand across different AVAs
in the region. In 2010, Delicato
Family Wines planted roots in the
Oak Knoll District of the Napa
Valley, on the grounds of a former
equestrian center, establishing
Black Stallion Estate Winery and
specializing in beautifully crafted,
small-lot Cabernet Sauvignon.
“From a vision and strategy
standpoint, we were aligned
from the very beginning, and
I think that’s why we’ve been

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

so successful for the last 10
involvement also signifies, to me,
years,” says head winemaker
the commitment that the Delicato
Ralf Holdenried, who joined the
family has to high-end wines, to
Delicato Family Wines in 2014.
Black Stallion and to another 100
“Even though the company has
years of making great wines in
Avery Hope, Austin Hope, Ainsley Hope and Celeste Hope
been around for a long time, I was
California.”
able to create a vision [for Black
Furthering the brand’s success
Stallion] with the
is the consistency
family to establish
of the high-quality
“The
Delicato
a great Napa winery
grape supply
and shape the
and maintaining
family has a
brand, the wine
relationships with
commitment
style and how we
to another 100 good vineyards.
make wines.”
“You have to have
years
of
making
Holdenried adds
good grapes in order
great
wines
that the Delicatos
to make good wine,
in California.”
play an amazing role
so securing the
in creating a family
grape sources was
atmosphere. “We
step number one.”
had a fourth-generation family
While Cabernet Sauvignon is
member join the winemaking
Black Stallion’s flagship wine,
team a few years ago, so the family
Holdenried says the winery’s
legacy continues,” he says. “His
mantra is to find some of the

most exciting vineyards in Napa
Valley that can contribute unique
characteristics to not only the
single varietals but also blends
that can express a balanced
variety of textures, aromas and
flavors. “I really focus on this
art of blending to highlight
individual sites,” he says,
commenting on Black Stallion’s
ability to source from the diverse
terroir of Napa Valley.
Looking forward, Holdenried
says that Black Stallion Estate
Winery will continue to provide
great quality wines, begin
experimenting with different
grape varieties and expand guest
experiences at the winery. For
that, Wine Enthusiast is happy
to honor Black Stallion as the
American Winery of the Year in
the 2023 Wine Star Awards. —CC

JASON TINACCI

The Delicato family is dedicated to their legacy of producing high-end wines that express the
diversity Napa terroir has to offer.

CA’ DEL BOSCO
EUROPEAN WINERY OF THE YEAR

The perfectly clear glass.
The sheer golden wrapper.
The sculpted calligraphy. Ca’
del Bosco has long captured
the imagination of sparkling
wine drinkers with its iconic
packaging, but it’s what’s in the
bottle that counts. Given the
evergreen elegance it projects,
one might be led to think that the
liquid inside is all about tradition,
staying the course and satisfying
expectations. But ask founder
and chairman Maurizio Zanella
for a one-word description of his
winery and he’s quick to set the
record straight: “Ca’ del Bosco is
‘counterculture.’” From the first
of its kind high-density plantings
in 1971 to the introduction of a
unique pressing method in 1995
to going fully organic in 2014—for
Zanella, cutting against the grain
has been and always will be the
defining momentum behind Ca’ del
Bosco, and it’s that unapologetic,
irreverent attitude that continues
to characterize its wines.
It was Mr. Zanella’s untamed
spirit that got everything started,
after his involvement in the 1968
counterculture movements in
Italy led him to fall behind in high
school and prompted his parents
to force him to return to their
family farm. Desperate to escape
to a more exciting atmosphere,
he pitched a trip to France to
his still-skeptical parents as an
opportunity to learn more about
winemaking, secretly hoping to

“No more growth,
no more extending
the reach, just making the most out of
what we’ve already
accomplished.”

use it to be closer to the beating
heart of the student rights’
movement. Instead, it brought
him to the beating heart of fine
winemaking, at the estate of
Domaine Romanée-Conti, where
he found a viticultural universe
turned upside-down. “They were
using horses instead of motorized

124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

tractors in the vineyards, and the
Italians I was with laughed and
said, ‘Oh, we’re so much more
advanced than this.’” But Zanella
understood their disregard for new
technologies was not a rejection of
the future, but rather an emphasis
on terroir and purity of fruit.
Inspired, he decided to bring
the cool confidence and honest
simplicity he witnessed in France
back home, convinced that he
could use the same methodology
to make the wines of Franciacorta
shine.
Today, with more than a half
century of history under his belt
and with Ca’ del Bosco widely
recognized as the ultimate point of
reference in Italian sparkling wine,

Zanella says the winery is focused
firmly on honing perfection from
excellence. “No more growth, no
more extending the reach, just
making the most out of what
we’ve already accomplished,”
he says. Yet, with experiments
like the exceptional release of a
Franciacorta aged no less than 42
years on the lees, Ca’ del Bosco
is not done pushing back against
expectations. For constantly
looking to the horizon for the
next challenge while consistently
delivering the timeless pleasure
of quality sparkling wines, Wine
Enthusiast honors Ca’ del Bosco as
the European Winery of the Year
in the 2023 Wine Star Awards.
—Danielle Callegari

CA’ DEL BOSCO

With more than half a century of wine industry history, Ca’ del Bosco continues to push the
boundaries of Italian winemaking.

140

ANTIGAL WINERY & ESTATE
NEW WORLD WINERY OF THE YEAR

Innovation and sustainability are at the
forefront of Argentinian winery Antigal.

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

company’s culture as well.
Gender inclusion is just one
example: Antigal’s finance,
marketing and winemaking
departments are each under

“We as producers
must capitalize on
this perception and
show the diversity
of wines made
in this land.”
Caption

female leadership. “Women value
and see things from a different
perspective. Working with them
has a positive impact on the
company,” says Cartoni.
Miriam Gomez, director of
enology and viticulture, has
been working at the winery for
16 years with the aim to create a
distinctive wine style reflective
of Antigal and Argentinian
terroir. “We want our wines to
preserve their unique identity
and exhibit a well-defined
varietal character. They must
be elegant. This is done through
vineyard management, the
timing of the harvest and making
the right decisions during the
winemaking process.”
Embracing Antigal’s innovative
spirit, the winemaker and her
team are working on a new
project that will expand the
portfolio by introducing new

grape varieties and regions. They
are determined to showcase
Argentina’s ability to produce
wines beyond Malbec and
continue pushing boundaries
within the industry.
On the same note, Cartoni
believes that Argentina,
perceived as a country that
excels at winemaking, should
leverage this reputation. “We
as producers must capitalize on

this perception and show the
diversity of wines made in this
land.” This integrated vision of
the wine industry has helped
the family position their wines
domestically and abroad—and
for their success, innovation
and sustainable practices, Wine
Enthusiast proudly names
Antigal the New World Winery of
the Year in the 2023 Wine Star
Awards. —JV

CARLOS RODRIGUEZ AND NICOLÁS TREPIANA

In 2000, the Chilean Cartoni
family made a bet on the
quality of the wines produced
in Argentina and embarked on
their first venture in the wine
business. They bought a centuryold winery in Maipú, Mendoza,
hired an architectural firm
to refurbish the building and
added the latest winemaking
technology.
Being new to the wine business
meant opportunities to be
innovative, says CEO Alessandra
Cartoni, who works alongside
her brothers and father. Today,
Antigal produces 2.5 million
bottles per year and exports to
70 countries. The vast portfolio
consists of a range of red and
white wines from Uco Valley and
Maipú, including single-vineyard
selections.
Antigal’s commitment to
sustainability has led them
to obtain several social and
environmental certifications
from organizations such as
LETIS, Bodegas de Argentina
and Sedex, among others. “We
take sustainability seriously,”
says Cartoni, who emphasizes
that the future lies in organic
viticulture. Currently, the family
has 32 acres of organic vineyards
within proximity to the winery
and plans to gradually convert
the rest.
Cartoni personally believes
in sustainability as a holistic
concept that includes the

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PRESTIGE IMPORTS
IMPORTER OF THE YEAR

In 1988 the world of wine in the
United States was a sleeping
giant. Consumers were imbibing
domestic wine, beers and cocktails.
The time was right for a focused
importer to hit the scene and help
catapult Italian Pinot Grigio into
the spotlight. Mezzacorona, the
1,600-farmer-strong cooperative
from Trentino-Alto Adige,
established Prestige Wine Imports
to broaden its market and change
the taste of America. What started
as a small upstart has transformed
over 35 years into one of the most
128
20162023
WINE ENTHUSIAST
ENTHUSIAST || DECEMBER
BEST OF YEAR
128 || WINE

iconic importers
be what the public
of Italian
was looking for
“The
wines
[were]
wine, shaping
and sales grew and
what
the
public
was
the palate
grew.” Excitement
looking for.”
of countless
from consumers
consumers.
didn’t come
The company
overnight, but a
began as a three-person operation
spark was lit. Prestige Imports
that hustled its way onto the
stoked that fire; today its portfolio
shelves of retailers and wine lists
of wines is distributed across the
across the U.S. CEO Rusty Pape,
entire U.S. The company has grown
who joined Prestige Imports in
steadily, helping introduce and
1991, recalls, “There were only the
reintroduce several Italian regions
three of us and we were only in a
into the U.S. market, including the
few states, but the wines seemed to
famed Rotari estate from Northern

Italy’s Trento DOC in northern
Italy, with the brand that started
it all, Mezzacorona, to the famed
sparkling estate Rotari, the historic
Chianti Classico estate Castello di
Querceto and the Stemmari estate
in Sicily.
In recognition of its persistence,
grit and vision that continues to
help shape the American palate,
Wine Enthusiast honors Prestige
Wine Imports the Importer of
the Year in the 2023 Wine Star
Awards. —JP

PHOTO CREDIT
JENNIFER
MITCHELL

The persistence and grit of a once small, three-person team, has grown into a globally
recognized company that has shaped the American wine palate.

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3 PARKS WINE SHOP
RETAILER OF THE YEAR

At Atlanta’s 3 Parks Wine Shop, wine is all about
diversity, inclusivity—and fun.

130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

“ The problem I
was solving was
making wine
approachable.”
The opening of a second 3 Parks
location this past November
remedies those issues. Customdesigned by Pierre to do it all,
including accommodating daytime events and larger tastings, it
benefits from 10 years of learnings
from running a retail wine shop at
the hub of Atlanta’s burgeoning
wine scene.
Over that time Pierre has built
the type of clout with which she
can convince a distributor to
bring on a brand she wants to
carry so she can stock it. But at
the heart of 3 Parks is its eclectic
and curated wine selection,
wildly popular wine club and
welcoming atmosphere that all
add up to a shop that Demario
Wallace, beverage director at Oliva
Restaurant Group, calls his
favorite wine shop in the country.
Donae Burston, La Fete Wine
Company founder and CEO (and
himself an influential member of
the wine community) calls 3 Parks
“a cornerstone of East Atlanta
and the overall wine community
in Atlanta,” and adds “It is truly
much more than a typical wine
shop, and it all starts with Sarah.”
When Pierre first opened in

Sarah Pierre,
proprietor of
3 Parks Wine
Shop

2013, she did not have the benefit
of that experience and just saw a
void. “My mission was to open a
store that my friends wanted to
come to, that everybody wanted
to come to, and that’s what I did,”
she says. From the start, the store
was more than a place to buy
booze. “We started hosting wine
tastings right away. They weren’t
formal by any means. The music
was on, and it was kind of like this
little party.”
As Burston puts it, “She has
created that neighborhood coffee
shop vibe but in a wine shop.”
The other issue Pierre saw back
then was that wine was perceived
as a bit stuffy and standoffish.
“The problem that I was solving
was making wine approachable,
making wine fun, diversifying
wine, making wine inclusive,”
Pierre says. “It was mostly just,
like, how do we get people to enjoy
this incredible product?”
She sees the tasting and events

that are the hallmark of 3 Parks
as being very much about access.
She doesn’t think wine needs
to feel intimidating, though
recognizes it can. She wants,
if they take nothing else away
from her events, for everyone
who attends to feel comfortable
ordering off a wine list when they
leave—so they won’t be shut
out. “The business deals happen
at a dinner table,” she says, just
as “business deals happen on
the golf course, on the tennis
courts—but to be the person
who’s afraid to speak up or even
afraid to be able to hold the wine
list, I hate that for them.”
For successfully modeling a
truly accessible and communitydriven wine retail business, Wine
Enthusiast is proud to honor 3
Parks Wine Shop with the Wine
Star Award for Retailer of the
Year.
—John Capone

KATE BLOHM

One of the things Sarah Pierre,
proprietor of 3 Parks Wine Shop
in Atlanta, learned from years
in the restaurant industry was
never to say no to a customer.
If that meant sending someone
to run down the street to buy
theater tickets so a dallying
diner wouldn’t miss their show
or running to the supermarket
to grab an ingredient that would
delight a guest, Pierre did it.
When she opened 3 Parks in 2013
with a determination to do things
differently, she brought this ethos.
So, she always said yes to her
customers and found ways to
surprise and delight. She’ll note
when a regular customer has a
baby and then, years later when
those birth vintages came into
the shop, she’d let them know
she’d put aside a special bottle for
them. (This is beyond next-level
calendar-remindering.) As Pierre
remembers, the lesson she learned
long ago was: “The answer is yes,
what’s the question?”
The only real limit was space.
“For us at 3 Parks, the only time
we ever really had to say no was
when someone was like, ‘I want
to host an event,’ or ‘Can I have
my birthday party here?’ ‘I want
to propose to someone,’” says
Pierre. “We just didn’t have the
space to accommodate people and
private events and parties during
the day.” And tastings would pack
the store—with a line of people
streaming onto the sidewalk.

GEORGE DICKEL
SPIRIT BRAND OF THE YEAR

Nicole Austin,
director of George
Dickel and Luxury
Whiskey at Diageo

It’s not often a historic brand
is reinvigorated as a musthave. But that’s what happened
when Nicole Austin, now
director of George Dickel and
Luxury Whiskey at Diageo,
came on board in 2018. Under
her stewardship, the brand has
transformed into a powerhouse,
turning out award-winning
bottles sought after by bartenders
and collectors alike.
The brand’s story began in
1878, when George Dickel, an
established Nashville merchant,
opened Cascade Hollow
Distillery. The company was first
known as Geo. A. Dickel & Co.
The distillery prospered until
Prohibition effectively shuttered
the business. A full 25 years
after the repeal of Prohibition, in

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

1958, the brand was revived and
began producing Geo. A. Dickel
Tennessee Whisky. Today, nearly
150 years after the distillery first
opened, the brand—now known
as George Dickel—continues to
produce whiskey in Tullahoma,
Tennessee.
When Austin arrived on
the scene, she brought a fresh
perspective, having worked at
both a small craft distillery in
Brooklyn as well as Tullamore Dew.
She viewed the job as twofold,
she recalls: first, to preserve
the standard and legacy of the
Tennessee whiskey brand; second,
to find a way to work with a
significant archive of aged whiskey.
“What’s the best use of this
whiskey?” Austin remembers
thinking. “Given all this inventory

“It’s a
recognition
of the
whole
portfolio.
People are
noticing
not just
one bottle,
but that
this whole
place is
special.”

we have, what would be the most
beautiful use, and what would I be
most proud of, looking forward 20
to 30 years?”
What followed was a string of
outstanding whiskeys, including
a 17-year-old reserve, a 15-yearold single barrel, Dickel Bourbon,
Bottled-in-Bond vintage whiskeys
and the experimental Cascade
Moon series. The Dickel 8-yearold bourbon has become the
biggest seller, Austin says,
overtaking even the flagship
Signature Dickel Classic.
The lauded bourbon bottling
has also provided a talking point
for Austin’s ongoing efforts
to improve education about
Tennessee whiskey, a critical
step in getting the word out to
legacy bourbon consumers and

continuing to drive sales forward.
Most recently, Austin found
inspiration in her craft distilling
roots, teaming with Denver craft
distillery Leopold Bros. for an
innovative new rye bottling, the
George Dickel x Leopold Bros.
Collaboration Blend. The release
blends Dickel’s rye with Leopold’s
Three Chamber Rye to recreate
a robust, historic style of rye
whiskey.
The response: Consumers were
so interested that the product,
intended as a one-off experiment,
will become a permanent part
of the Dickel line. “It cements a
relationship between one of the
largest distilleries in the world and
a craft distillery,” Austin says. “It’s
resurrecting a historic style of rye.
That’s huge news, and it’s the thing
I’m most proud of.”
While it’s gratifying to see certain
bottles win acclaim, Austin says
she is also pleased to see more
consideration given to Dickel
overall—including this Wine
Star Award. “It’s a recognition of
the whole portfolio,” she says.
“People are noticing not just one
bottle, but that this whole place is
special.”
For its transformation from
historic mainstay to consumer
must-have, George Dickel is the
recipient of Wine Enthusiast’s
Wine Star for Spirit Brand of the
Year.
—Kara Newman

GEORGE DICKEL; CASCADE HOLLOW DISTILLERY

George Dickel, a brand deeply rooted in American distillation history, is pushing the
boundaries with its line of modern, innovative whiskeys.

SOUTHERN GLAZER’S WINE & SPIRITS TOASTS

T H E W I N E S TA R AWA R D
WINNERS OF 2023
John Sutton
Person Of The Year

Carlton McCoy
Social Visionary Of The Year

3 Parks Wine Shop
Retailer/Marketplace Of The Year

Joseph E. Gallo
Lifetime Achievement Award

Charlottesville, Virginia
Wine Region Of The Year

George Dickel
Spirit Brand Of The Year

Carolyn Wente
American Wine Legend

Black Stallion Estate Winery
American Winery Of The Year

Alessio Planeta
Winemaker Of The Year

Ca’ del Bosco
European Winery Of The Year

Jhonel Faelnar
Sommelier/Beverage Director
Of The Year

Christian Wylie
Wine Executive Of Thee Year

Antigal Winery & Estates
New World Winery Of The Year

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine
Innovator Of The Year

Prestige Wine Imports
Importer Of The Year

JHONEL FAELNAR
BEVERAGE DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR AWARD

It’s Jhonel Faelnar’s ability to communicate,
educate and inspire a sense of community
within the bev-alch industry that makes him a
standout in his field.
“My advice to
someone wanting
to make a career in
wine is to not skip the
fundamentals.”

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

radical new flavor combinations,
Faelnar embraces tradition and
innovation equally. While the wine
program is rooted in Champagne
and Burgundy, he’s constantly
looking for against-the-grain
producers from across the globe,
specifically seeking innovative
wines that can pair with the many
fermented, spicy and powerfully
flavored foods.
“I certainly learned the ‘Western’
approach to wine tasting as I
completed my wine studies here in
New York, but that’s never stopped
me from incorporating flavors from
my childhood and travels into the
equation,” he says. “It’s shaped the
way I interact with our guests in
that I simply have an open mind
and tend to listen and recommend
rather than impose a certain style
of wine on people.”
“What sets Jhonel apart is
this lack of pretense in his
interpersonal contact,” says J.
Scott Carney MS, Dean of Wine
Studies at New York’s Institute of
Culinary Education. “He is an aura

of positive energy that has found
its way into hospitality and set a
new standard of excellence.”
Faelnar’s message for aspiring
wine professionals is simple:
Start with the basics. “My advice
to someone wanting to make a
career in wine is to not skip the
fundamentals simply to get to the
fun part. Coming up in the industry
and learning every position in the
business or the restaurant is not
something people these days aspire
to do … but I can confidently say
this has made me the sommelier I
am today.”
Faelnar is also active with the
ARK Solves organization that
is committed to sustainably

solving hunger issues in the
rural communities of developing
nations, which points to what peers
say is his humanitarian nature.
“Jhonel recognizes the incredible
importance of community,” says
Thomas Pastuszak, who worked
with Faelnar as wine director
of NoMad, and is currently vice
president of sales and hospitality
for Grand Cru Selections. “Every
day, Jhonel embodies what our
hospitality culture needs more of,
and why those of us in this business
love it so much.” For this, Wine
Enthusiast is proud to honor Jhonel
Faelnar with the award of Beverage
Director of the Year.
—Nils Bernstein

MARTIN ROMERO

“I think a sommelier is and
should be constantly trying to be
the most hardworking, humble,
dedicated, and knowledgeable
person on the floor,” says Jhonel
Faelnar, beverage director for New
York restaurant group NA:EUN
Hospitality, which includes the
two-Michelin-star Atomix, as well
as Atoboy, Naro and Seoul Salon.
“A sommelier’s first responsibility
is to add to the guest experience
and everything leading up to that,
from the routine tasks of the day
to the complex guest interactions
that are often undervalued in their
elegance and brevity.”
Faelnar started his career in
fashion and retail management,
first in his hometown of Manila,
and later in Osaka, Japan. His
travels led to an interest in food
and hospitality, and he enrolled in
the International Culinary Center’s
intensive sommelier program in
2013 upon relocating to New York.
In 2015 he joined the team at
NoMad, which then had one of the
most acclaimed wine programs in
the country, and landed at Atomix
in 2018, where he started as a
sommelier, then wine director, and
in 2022 became beverage director
across all the NA:EUN restaurants.
Just as his restaurants explore
the leading edge of new Korean
cuisine by mixing traditional
ingredients and techniques with

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THE

ANNUAL

W I N E S TA R A W A R D W I N N E R S
H o n o r i n g L u m i n a r i e s of t h e B e v e ra g e A l c o h o l I n d u s t r y.
W i n n e r s w i l l b e h o n o re d at o u r a n n u a l a w a rd s g a l a .

PERSON OF THE YEAR

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

JOHN SUTTON

JOSEPH E. GALLO

CEO, The Wine Group

E. & J. Gallo Winery

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Photo Credit: Ron Essex Photography LLC, E. & J. Gallo Winery

AMERICAN WINE LEGEND

WINE EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR

INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR
PASQUA VIGNETI E CANTINE

SOCIAL VISIONARY OF THE YEAR

CAROLYN WENTE

CHRISTIAN WYLIE

Fourth Generation Winegrower and
Chairperson of the Board, Wente Vineyards

Managing Director, Bodega Garzon

WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR

AMERICAN WINERY
OF THE YEAR

EUROPEAN WINERY
OF THE YEAR

NEW WORLD WINERY
OF THE YEAR

CEO & Chief Winemaker, Planeta

BLACK STALLION
ESTATE WINERY

CA’ DEL BOSCO

ANTIGAL WINERY & ESTATES

WINE REGION OF THE YEAR

IMPORTER OF THE YEAR

RETAILER OF THE YEAR

CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA

PRESTIGE WINE IMPORTS

SOMMELIER/BEVERAGE
DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR

ALESSIO PLANETA

CARLTON MCCOY
Lawrence Wine Estates, Demaine Estates,
and The Roots Fund

PARKS WINE SHOP

JHONEL FAELNAR
Beverage Director, NA:EUN Hospitality

MONDAY, FEBRUARY ,
Eden Roc Hotel 4525 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach, FL
Individual Tickets: $1,985
Table of 10: $18,585
SPIRIT BRAND OF THE YEAR

Table of 12: $21,585

GEORGE DICKEL

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Photo Credit: Wente Vineyards, Bodega Garzon, Pasqua Wines, Alexander Rubin, Marius Mele, Black Stallion Estate Winery, Ca’ Del Bosco, Carlos Rodriguez
and Nicolás Trepiana, Sanjay Suchak, Jennifer Mitchell, Kate Blohm, Martin Romero, George Dickel

expect excellence

Discover our wines at paulhobbswinery.com

BEST OF YEAR
THIS MONTH
175 CALIFORNIA
176 PIEDMONT
177

TUSCANY

180 SPIRITS

GETTY IMAGES

183

BEER

Celebratory
Champagne
tower.
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEENTHUSIAST.COM/RATINGS

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 139

BUYINGGUIDE

AN EYE-OPENING YEAR
What to buy now from Napa, Sonoma and beyond.
This Buying Guide
wraps up 12 months of

Many of these wineries have begun bot-

blind tasting for our team
of 18 reviewers, and it is

tling more vineyarddesignated Pinot Noirs

a big one. As one of the

and

18, I had an eye-opening
year reviewing Napa and

partly to have more distinct items to send their

Sonoma wines, including 532 in preparation
for this issue alone.

wine club members but
also to showcase the
seemingly infinite, indi-

My learnings were
many while conducting blind tastings two
to three times per week,

vidual terroirs for these
Burgundian grape varieties in Sonoma County
and Carneros.

writing the reviews,
meeting with winemakers, walking vineyards
and writing articles. The
reviews in these pages
Jim Gordon, senior editor, tasting
reflect my continuing education in wine after several
We are all fortunate in
decades of fascinating “study”
this time and place to
and my best efforts to keep you
enjoy unprecedented
apprised of what to buy.
access to beautiful
So what should you buy
wines from around
now? My usuals—Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma
the world, making it
County Pinot Noir and Chardonimpossible to answer
nay—but also some unusuals.
a question that I get
The 2020 vintage was a
often: What’s your
smoky one in this part of Califavorite wine?
fornia, but don’t be overly cautious about buying 2020 Cabs
and Bordeaux-style blends.
Wineries did a good job of culling out the
smoke-affected lots. Many excellent, even
stunning wines were released, like the Stag’s
Leap Cask 23 reviewed here.
For Pinot Noir, it’s difficult to go wrong
with any of the 2021 offerings from the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. Look for
standouts from Patz & Hall, Lynmar Estate,
Merry Edwards and Carneros-based Bouchaine to mention just a few.

Chardonnays,

But as much as
I can enthuse about
Napa and Sonoma, the
whole wide world of
wine is reflected in my
colleagues’ reviews included
here. From Italy, an incredible
lineup of Barolo and Tuscany
reviews will send you shopping. Read the sparkling wine
reviews of Champagne, various French crémants, Spanish
Cavas and Italian Proseccos at
wineenthusiast.com/ratings
and start stockpiling for all
your celebrations in the new
year ahead.
We are all fortunate in

this time and place to enjoy
unprecedented access to
beautiful wines from around the world, making it impossible to answer a question that I
get often: What’s your favorite wine? American consumers can choose from the most
extensive array of wines available anywhere in
the world, and thousands of them are worth
discovering. This Buying Guide is a great place
to continue your exploration.
—Jim Gordon

The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters.
STAFF EDITORS
Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley
Jim Gordon: Napa, Sonoma
Craig Chamberlain: Virginia
Stacy Briscoe: Northern California &
California AVA
Jacy Topps: Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence,
Vin de France
WRITERS AT LARGE
Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada
Danielle Callegari: Tuscany & Southern Italy
Mike DeSimone: Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey,
Lebanon, Armenia
John Holl: Beer
Matt Kettmann: Central & South Coast California
Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD
Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England,
New York
Jeff Porter: Piedmont & Northern Italy
Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia, Hungary
Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley
Jesica Vargas: South America & South Africa
Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux,
Champagne, Southwest
& Other France
Aleks Zecevic: Alsace, Austria, Germany
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the
producer or retail price of any given selection.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:

The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Hidden Gems are products which are not your typical regional finds, but should not be missed. These fun, esoteric wines
are priced above $20 and score above 87 points.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $20 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted as detailed in our FAQ, available online via wineenthusiast.com/submit-for-rating. Inquiries
should be addressed to tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is
no charge for submitting products.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; or
email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
wineenthusiast.com/ratings

140 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Philipponnat 2014 Clos des Goisses Extra Brut
(Champagne). This always-memorable single-vineyard Champagne is dominated by rich Pinot
Noir. The vineyard, a steep slope facing the Marne
river, has given an intense, concentrated wine that
has aged so well. Touches of toast are equaled by the
rich fruit and acidity. Drink this great wine now. Banville Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $350

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2020 Cask 23 Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District).
This seamless blend of oak spices, cherry-plum
fruitiness and silky tannins makes for an irresistible wine. A Napa classic and collectible, it is big and
mouthfilling but so well polished that it’s tempting to
drink young. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $305

Gusbourne Estate 2014 51°N Traditional
Method Sparkling Blend (England). A pale
radiant gold, this wine delivers vibrant aromas
of honeyed lemon, grilled pineapple, guava, nougat and ground ginger, with a toasty, mushroomy
underbelly. There’s quiet opulence and power here,
with beads of fine bubbles and bright acidity. On
the long creamy mousse ride a myriad flavors right
through to the exceptionally long finish. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —C.P.
abv: 12%
Price: $370

Argiano 2018 (Brunello di Montalcino). Like
a good Valentine’s Day party, everything is
shades of red on the vibrant, sanguine nose, from
strawberries and cranberries to savory notes of pennies, brick and crisp leather. Citrus joins the cranberries on a bright, acidic palate, but a meaty, bitter finish
creates balance. Dynamic fruit stands up to authoritative, unapologetic tannins. E. & J. Gallo. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $90

Argiano 2021 (Rosso di Montalcino). A fresh,
salty, slightly chalky nose, like the beach
in autumn, starts with wild herbs, shells and dirt,
before evolving into warm, astringent aromas of
dried cherries, cranberries and dark chocolate. On
the rich palate, a bolder cherry streak highlights
more astringent red fruit, but a deep earthiness and
lingering mineral saltiness preserve a marvelous
freshness. Maze Row Wine Merchant. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $43

Ceretto 2019 Prapo’ (Barolo). With aromas
of dark cherry, preserved raspberries, clove
and dried roses, this wine wafts from the glass with
grace and class. It offers a firm and well-structured
palate, displaying solid tannins and energetic acidity that lifts the notes of mixed wild berries, tobacco
and tea, finishing with a chalky minerality. Trinchero Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA

Eleven Eleven 2020 Laki’s Vineyard Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District).
Deep and well-concentrated, this richly oaked and
powerfully black-fruited wine compares to many
at twice the price. It needs time to show its best
side. Firm tannins blanket blueberries, black currants and blackberries, while cocoa, espresso and
graphite accents give it a dark complexity. Best from
2026–2036. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $140

André Brunel 2020 Les Cailloux (Châteauneufdu-Pape). Crisp red apples, rhubarb, red
cherries, picked rosemary stems, black olives and
warm stones invigorate the senses. The palate is
round and generous with concentrated cherry notes,
supported by clove and black peppercorn on the finish. Cellar well through 2040+. Quintessential. Cellar Selection. —A.C.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70

Aperture 2020 Del Rio Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This huge
and deeply flavored wine was aged in all-new
French barrels. It stacks blueberries, blackberries
and espresso flavors atop a massive frame of firm
tannins that will carry it far into the future. The
rewards should be great for those who are patient.
Best from 2028–2038. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $150

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 141

BUYINGGUIDE

Hendry 2021 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Creamy but complex,
this elegant wine made from mature vines glides
across the palate, sharing subtle oak smoke, toasted
almond, butter and Bosc pear flavors in fascinating
layers. Silky in texture, nicely dry and long on the
finish, the wine is something for a special occasion
with a great meal. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38

Merry Edwards 2021 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Almost irresistible
for its lavish spices and rich fruits, this deep and
expansive wine is memorably flavorful and complex. Cinnamon, cedar, cloves and balsam complement vibrant red cherries, rich black cherries and
mulled plums as a full body and moderate tannins
give it significant heft in the texture. Best from
2027–2033. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $75

Shafer 2019 Relentless Syrah-Petite Sirah
(Napa Valley). This powerful, rough-hewn
wine that contains 11% Petite Sirah holds extremely
deep black and blue fruits in a framework of grippy
tannins. A tight, reserved expression on the midpalate signals more aging is needed for best enjoyment.
The wine’s ripe, compelling, late-harvest fruits
match the massive structure. Best from 2028–
2040. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $90

La Lecciaia 2017 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). The nose is a retired sailor’s old
leather trunk, smelling of the tobacco, vanilla, dried
fruit and dark chocolate once contained within,
with a hint of saline. Like the trunk’s owner, the
palate is mature but not boring, with continuing
notes of vanilla and fruit, but umami undertones,
ominous tannins and searing acid provide contrast.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Lynmar Estate 2021 Summit Block Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). So posh and velvety,
this alluring wine made from Calera-clone vines
offers great concentration without weight. It melds
black cherries, spearmint, cinnamon and a shaving
of dark chocolate on the palate, wrapped in soft,
melted tannins. It’s a remarkable, mouthfilling and
gentle wine. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $89

142 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

The Setting 2019 Glass Slipper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). Delicious
and drenched in black fruits, this velvety-textured
wine wraps fine-grained tannins around blackberries, blueberries and subtle, complex oak spices for
a harmonious, memorable expression. While broad
and ripe, it’s also nuanced and complex. Best from
2026–2036. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $185

Tua Rita 2019 Gusto Di Notri (Toscana).
Black cherry, blackberries and Mission figs
appear on the nose before deep, sanguine and metallic aromas take over, eventually acting like bedrock
for the palate, where dark fruit and warm earth
tones luxuriate against tannins that are impossibly, preternaturally sleek. The fine-tuning guarantees yet more elegance with age; drink 2029–2039.
Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. —D.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $100

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2017 CYRUS Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Alexander Valley).
Here is a big, bold wine that’s comfortable in its
own skin. It draws from a deep well of dark berries,
well-integrated oak spices and accents of tobacco
and singed herbs for great breadth and complexity.
While full bodied and rather tannic, those tannins
are silky and the wine feels relaxed as you sip. Best
through 2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75

Alta Orsa 2020 Hillside Cuvée Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). On the
nose, crushed roses and violets, black cherry, plum,
currant, unsweetened cacao dust, toasted wood, tar
and a sanguine-like umami. The palate keeps this
promise, knitting together those flavors with wellintegrated firm tannins, generous acidity and balanced alcohol. Cellar Selection. —S.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34

Banfi 2018 Poggio Alle Mura (Brunello di
Montalcino). The nose is primarily herbaceous and minty, but fleeting streaks of astringent
fruit and iron-rich soil add depth. The cherries and
strawberries turn juicy and swell on the palate, but
a welcome kick of heat and frenzied tannins and
acid maintain order. Banfi Vintners. —D.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $110

Ceretto 2019 Brunate (Barolo). Beautiful
aromas of wild cherry, allspice, fresh leather
and flowers gracefully emerge from the glass. The
wine delights with mouthwatering acidity and
crushed red fruits, like raspberry and strawberry,
accompanied by balsamic notes. It has a juicy and
round profile, well-integrated and poised for aging.
Drink 2025–2045. Trinchero Family Estates. Cellar
Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA

Bob Cabral Wines 2019 Anne Rose Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This elegant, racy
wine offers breezy acidity, fresh and lively fruit flavors and just a touch of butter and vanilla to round
off its edges. Crisp green apples, kiwis and lemons
give it an appetizing lift that will pair with a myriad
of dishes. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $100

Ceretto 2019 Bricco Rocche (Barolo). On
the nose, this wine exudes notes of black
cherry, tea and cedar. The palate is very elegant,
showcasing fine tannins and a very pretty and enticing character. The finish reveals earthy and mineral
elements, contributing to its classy profile. A wine
for the ages. Drink 2026–2046. Trinchero Family
Estates. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA

Domaine Divio 2021 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). Sweet-pea flowers and the scent
of fresh laundry hanging on the line make a great
first impression. Then the mint, toasted filberts and
warm lemon-pudding-cake aromas arrive. Wow.
Lemon, sweet butter and pear flavors are lit up by
brilliant acidity. Enjoy as often as possible until
2033. Cellar Selection. —M.A.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $60

95
95

Daou 2019 Family Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Incredibly dark in the
glass, this bottling shows lightly caramelized berries, espresso grinds and toasted nuts on the unctuous nose. The rich and comforting palate is silky in
texture, as polished tannins offer brown sugar, walnut extract and coffee-liqueur flavors. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $130

Davies 2021 Poseidon Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Carneros-Napa Valley). Not obviously oaky,
this savory, complex wine captures interest with
mellow, mulled-cherry flavors and subtle earthy,
leafy, woodsy accents that merit contemplation.
Soft tannins and a gentle texture lend an ethereal
feel to this distinctive wine. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80

Donum 2021 Ten Oaks Year Of The Ox Reserve
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A lively
texture and absolutely captivating fruit flavors
make this medium-bodied wine hard to resist. Red
and black cherries, with hints of cocoa and sour
cherries, are woven into moderate tannins for an
appetizing texture. —J.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $125

Henners 2018 Blanc De Blancs Chardonnay
(England). Beautiful, oh-so-English aromas of raw honey, pear, lemon rind, ground ginger,
nougat and fresh cream form the nose of this stellar sparkling from a coastal vineyard in East Sussex.
Mouthwatering citrusy acidity first hits the tongue,
followed by a chalky texture, a tickle of toast and
a long lemony finish amid a fine bead of bubbles.
Boutinot USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 12%
Price: $65

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 143

BUYINGGUIDE

La Lecciaia 2018 (Brunello di Montalcino).
The nose is a first date in the ’60s, drinking
cherry cola and vanilla smoothies and trying not to
spill on new leather car seats. The indulgent palate deepens into a more mature blend of orange and
dark chocolate, with strident tannins and bustling
acid creating a hot, peppery undertone. Monsieur
Touton Selection Ltd. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $45

Lions Head Collection 2021 Lion Tamer Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Polished and
perfumed, this elegant wine drinks easily now but
has the balance and quiet concentration to help it
improve for several years. Lush black cherries, black
currants and blueberries fill the palate, buoyed on
moderate tannins and spiced with toast, cinnamon
and cedar notes from oak barrels. Blended with 8%
Malbec. —J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $65

Louis Latour 2020 En Chevret Premier Cru
(Volnay). Powerful and concentrated aromas of crushed rose petals and strawberry shrub
dusted with white pepper sit atop a layer of wild
mint, cardamom and musk. Dark black cherry, black
licorice and oak spice meld seamlessly with its
youthful tannins. Cellar well through 2035+. Louis
Latour Inc. —A.C.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $149

144 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Louis M. Martini 2020 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Malbec (Sonoma Valley). Super dark to the
eye, this massively concentrated wine brings black
cherries and dark chocolate to the nose and a velvety, mouthcoating texture to the palate. Subtle
accents of new leather, tobacco and licorice run
through the black fruits, coddled by comforting, soft
tannins. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $75

Luis Duarte 2020 Rubrica (Alentejano). This
is a major wine from the first Duarte generation dedicated solely to its vineyards. The vines are
located near surviving Xerez Cromlech monoliths.
Serious tannins and rich black fruits layered with a
firm, still young structure are hallmarks of the wine.
Its future is assured, smoothing out with the wood
aging to give a wine that is impressive and ripe. Drink
from 2026. Specialty Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Lynmar Estate 2021 Anisya’s Blend Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Beautifully composed
and complete, this well-balanced wine matches
powerful red and black fruits to firm tannins while
backed by good acidity and a full body. While enjoyable now, it has the potential to improve with age.
Best from 2026–2033. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $89

Riboli 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford). Polished yet potent, this
extremely deep and concentrated wine feels smooth
around the perimeter yet snugly grips its powerful
black-fruit flavors in fine-grained tannins. Nuances
of mint, graphite and black cherries emerge with
more sips for a captivating complexity. Best from
2027–2037. —J.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $90

95
95

Lynmar Estate 2021 AMDG Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This mouthfilling masterpiece of a wine made from Dijon clones and the
Pommard clone is relaxed in tempting, ripe black
fruits, dark chocolate and soft tannins, for an alluring expression. It shows all the richness, breadth
and warmth of the Russian River region. —J.G.
Price: $81
abv: 14.3%

Sangiacomo 2021 ViMaria Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Cherries of all types crowd
into this vibrant, joyous wine, giving it a vital fruity
core braced by energizing acidity and light tannins.
Well-balanced to say the least, the wine leads with
red, black and sour cherries before the mouthwatering texture and subtle mineral and oak spices
seep into the palate. Best through 2030. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90

Schweiger 2017 Dedication Estate Bottled
Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Spring Mountain
District). Bright black cherries mingle with dark
chocolate, toasted oak and vanilla in this well-concentrated, full-bodied and firmly tannic wine that
was aged 32 months in 50% new French barrels.
The delicious, juicy fruit flavors meld well with the
wine’s tannins. Best from 2027–2040. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125

Shafer 2021 TD-9 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This TD-9 Cabernet Sauvignon, not to be confused with other TD-9 red
wines, shows an amazing clarity of dark fruit. Its
deep black cherries, blackberries and touches of
black olive embody classic Cabernet. Beautifully
integrated tannins lend a posh texture that’s still
bracing enough to help the wine age and improve.
Best from 2026–2036. —J.G.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $75

St. Supéry 2019 Dollarhide Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Relaxed in texture and impressively rich in fruit flavors, this wine
opens with a mélange of mint, crushed cherries and
raspberries. It then floods the palate with blackberries and blueberries interlaced with cedar, mint and
cocoa accents. The wine has improved greatly over
past vintages. It is rich enough to enjoy soon but
concentrated enough for considerable aging. Best
from 2027–2037. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125

Three Sticks 2021 Alana Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Generous butter and oak-spice aromas give way to rich pear and
golden apple flavors in this robust, full-bodied wine
made in a limited quantity. It feels powerful on the
palate, bursting with toast and poached pear flavors
on a firm texture. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80

95
95

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2020 S.L.V. Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District).
This silky, polished and gentle wine offers a handsome matrix of black fruits, subtle oak spices and
hints of savory herbs that delight and soothe the
palate. A medium to full body and very fine-grained
tannins give it structure without biting. Best from
2027–2037. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $200

Three Sticks 2021 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). With tangy red fruits in
the nose and refreshing, vibrant cherries and raspberries on the palate, this silky-textured, superbalanced wine is a treat to drink. Light tannins and
good acidity buoy the berry flavors in a way that
begs for more sipping. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75

95
95

Sierra Cantabria 2015 Gran Reserva (Rioja).
Dark ruby to the eye, this wine offers aromas
of dark berries, milk chocolate and fennel. Cassis,
blackberry, dark-chocolate, clove and lavender flavors are cloaked in a sheath of plush tannins that
evaporate into an enduring, spice-scented finish.
Drink through 2035. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $49

The Setting 2019 Rockpile Ridge Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rockpile). Massive,
sandy tannins encircle deep, dark fruit flavors and
powerful oak spices in this full-bodied, ultraconcentrated wine. Enticing cocoa, espresso, blackberries and graphite are tightly held, needing several
years to break out of the tannic grip. Best from
2028–2038. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $185

Troon 2021 Estate Syrah (Applegate Valley). Raspberries, perhaps intermixed with
strawberries, join forces with white pepper and violets to create a set of aromas that suggest northern
Rhône via the Applegate Valley. Brilliant acidity and
firm tannins support flavors like tart blackberries,
pine needles and cedar. The wine’s texture is as
smooth as silk. Enjoy 2023–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.A.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $35

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 145

BUYINGGUIDE

Banfi 2020 Magna Cum Laude (Toscana). A
primarily sanguine and umami nose of iron,
graphite and stones also features a rich, decadent
sweetness of plums and orange icing. These notes
all roll onto the palate with grace, before the candied oranges become the main character at the very
end. Acid blazes around unwavering tannins. Banfi
Vintners. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $40

Aperture 2020 Soil Specific Bordeaux-style
Red Blend (Sonoma County). Very deep in
black fruits, this polished but full-bodied wine is
steeped in black cherries, black currants and dark
chocolate, all finely blended into a velvety, palatesoothing texture. It brings elegance with power.
Best from 2026–2036. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Arnoux & Fils 2020 Vieux Clocher Symphonie
Des Galets (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Aromas
of fresh black cherries, tangerine, white peach, Bosc
pears, violets and warming spices offer freshness
and an inviting energy. This focused wine is packed
with power and structure that will benefit from
cellar aging well through 2040+. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —A.C.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $47

Avancia 2022 Nobleza Old Vines Godello
(Valdeorras). This medium-straw-colored
wine has a nose of Granny Smith apple, dried apricot and curry leaf. Dried thyme and sage notes ply
the palate alongside vivid acidity and tangerine,
lemon and green-apple flavors. The finish is equal
parts bright and savory. Jorge Ordóñez Selections.
Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75

146 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Beronia 2015 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Dark
violet-red in the glass, this wine has a
bouquet of blackberry, milk chocolate and butterscotch. Spicy clove and eucalyptus (with touches of
dark chocolate) open on the palate and are joined
by dark- and red-berry flavors. The whole package
is wrapped up in polished tannins and well-moderated acidity that linger on the tongue and gums.
Gonzalez Byass USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Bodega Garzón 2020 Balasto Red Blend
(Maldonado). The vibrancy of this wine is
one of its main characteristics. Aromas of cherry
jam, fig and mulberry form an aromatic nose. The
energized palate shares the same notes of black
fruit, with a whisper of smoke and dried herbs.
This wine is elegant and silky and has the structure
needed to age beautifully. Drink now–2033. Opici
Wines & Spirits. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125

Bodegas Castillejo De Robledo 2019 Altos De
Valdoso Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Aromas
of cassis, dried Mediterranean herbs and anisette
waft from the glass. Grippy tannins come on strong
but are well-matched by bright red-berry flavors and
vivid acidity. Notes of mocha, thyme, lavender and
fennel seed linger on the palate alongside vibrant
fruit. Tri-Vin Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $35

Bodegas Escudero NV Dioro Baco Brut Rosado
Pinot Noir (Cava). This deep-apricot-colored
wine has a steady stream of effervescence that
releases a bouquet of green apple, yellow cherry
and sage leaf. It is round on the palate, with enticing mouthfeel and nectarine, gooseberry and cocoa
butter flavors and a lingering hint of espresso bean.
Lovemark Advanced Trading Holding LLC. —M.D.
abv: 12%
Price: $50

Bodegas Olarra 2016 Otoñal Gran Reserva
(Rioja). This dark-ruby-colored wine has
a bouquet of black currant, Mission fig and violet.
Polished tannins play backup to black-cherry, purple-plum, butterscotch, aniseed and lavender flavors. A hint of dried thyme carries into the enduring
finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35

Bricoleur 2022 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). A silky texture, lacy fruit, oak spice
flavors and a growing richness on the palate all
contribute to this creamy, elegant wine’s charm. A
touch of almost peppery wood char adds nice lift on
the palate and finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42

Caiarossa 2020 Aria di Caiarossa (Toscana).
The nose offers a captivating blend of
nuanced fruit aromas, from Bing cherries to rhubarb
to pomegranate, and then a fresh herbaceousness,
with mint and fennel. On the palate, tannins guide
you toward dark fruits that eventually explode into a
powerfully peppery finish. A reminder that Bolgheri
isn’t the only part of the Maremma worth plundering,
especially at this price point. Misa Imports. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Castello di Monsanto 2020 Monsanto Riserva
(Chianti Classico). Bing cherry and blood
orange, potting soil, graphite and then wild herbs—
especially sage—appear on the nose, before a whisper
of vanilla and cedar. Juicy and fresh on the palate,
with vanilla, chocolate and cherry, and then herbs
emerging again on the back. A rare example of a wine
with great sophistication that’s also an undeniable
crowd-pleaser. Freixenet Mionetto USA. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $33

Clos du Val 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Seductive oak spices and a plush
mouthfeel come with abundant red and black fruits
in this full-bodied, appropriately tannic wine that
needs time to reach its full potential. Pine and rosemary accents merge nicely with the blackberries
and blueberries. Best from 2028–2038. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Decoy 2021 Limited Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). So concentrated and
deep, this massively structured wine performs above
its price range. Saturated with blackberries, black
currants, espresso and dark chocolate flavors, it is
firmly wrapped in a thick layer of tannin. Delicious
now, it will become more complex and drinkable with
time. Best from 2028–2040. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Domaine Divio 2021 Shea Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine represents the best two barrels from a strong vintage. The
wine leads with a tremendous blackberry-tomato
leaf combination that is flanked by shortbread and
coffee notes. Brilliant acidity goes hand in hand
with tart raspberry and citrus flavors. Serve with
braised beef cheeks and enjoy until 2034. Cellar
Selection. —M.A.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $75

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Caiarossa 2020 (Toscana). The nose balances dark fruit and berries with the fresh
levity of white pepper, mint and eucalyptus. On the
palate, notes of vanilla bean and dark chocolate
underscore the juicy broadness of the fruit, but a
hot, peppery finish presents a thought-provoking
contrast and prompts a meditative finish. Misa
Imports. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70

Cyan 2018 Prestigio Tinta de Toro (Toro).
This inky-garnet-colored wine offers
cherry, cassis, dark-chocolate and smoke aromas.
There is a touch of earthiness on the palate that
underlies black-cherry, blackberry, cocoa-powder,
lavender and licorice flavors. Sturdy tannins slowly
soften and linger for a while. Solera Imports. —M.D.
Price: $50
abv: 15%

Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Endeavour Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). Luscious
in black fruits and oak spices, this posh-textured
wine aged in 40% new French barrels boasts power
with grace. Intensely rich and delicious black currants, blueberries and dark chocolate are framed in
masses of fine-grained tannins to come off as soft
and plush. Best from 2025–2032. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100

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BUYINGGUIDE

Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Terroir Series
Benchland Meritage (Dry Creek Valley).
Lively black currant and black cherry aromas lead
to a mouthful of oak spices, blackberries, cedar and
mint in this complex, layered and seductive wine.
Velvety tannins are seamlessly integrated with lavish baking spices, chocolate and black currants.
Best through 2033. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70

Dutcher Crossing 2019 Pritchett Peaks Vineyard Zinfandel (Rockpile). This wine, supplemented with Petite Sirah, shows the serious side
of Zin. Well-ripened black-fruit flavors are subtly
accented by spicy oak and braced by moderate tannins. Blackberries, blueberries, cedar and cinnamon
mingle on the palate and linger on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $53

Escarpment 2021 Te Rehua Pinot Noir (Martinborough). This is a Pinot set for the long haul
and it needs time in a decanter now to show its true
personality. It’s meaty with a sanguine tinge. There
are raspberry, plum, dried violet and cola nuances
amid heaps of savory spice. On the palate, fine, spicy
tannins are taut and chiseled, but there’s lovely freshness and fruit character here, too. Best to leave this
at least another year or two. Drink from 2025–2033.
Delicato Family Wines. Cellar Selection. —C.P.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%

148 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Ferrari-Carano 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Bold black fruits,
firm tannins and ample oak spices give this fullbodied wine a big impact on the palate. Impressions
of dried black cherries, blueberries and dark chocolate weave in and out of impressive, fine-grained
tannins that add muscle to the wine’s structure.
Best from 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60

Gary Farrell 2020 Westside Farms Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A restrained but
attractive earthy and oaky wood-smoke character
lends a spicy appeal to this medium-bodied but
silky-textured wine, keeping it in the complex, nonfruity mode. Toast, forest floor and brothy notes
continue to develop with each sip, making the wine
fascinating and different. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55

Gran Elias Mora 2017 La Senda de los Lobos
Single Vineyard (Toro). The scent of blackberry, cassis and mocha rises from the glass. Blackcurrant, Mission fig, cocoa-powder, anise and lavender flavors are enfolded in a skein of solid tannins
that slowly give way. Grapes of Spain. —M.D.
abv: 15%
Price: $90

Hendry 2019 Block 15 Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). This deep, concentrated, cherry- and
chocolate-scented wine builds flavors and texture
as you sip, filling the mouth with blackberries, black
cherries and dark chocolate wrapped in substantial
fine-grained tannins. The wine will pair awesomely
with roasts and steaks. Decant and drink soon, but it
will be best from 2026–2036. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $48

Hendry 2019 Hendry Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A good-old Napa
Cab character comes through in this blackberry and
black-olive scented wine that shows great balance
despite elevated alcohol. A full body, medium tannins and lots of dark fruit with little noticeable oak
keep it focused and delicious. —J.G.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $70

Iron Horse 2019 Classic Vintage Brut Sparkling Blend (Green Valley of Russian River
Valley). An engaging complexity wafts from the
glass as this elegant, well-integrated wine opens
with toasted baguette, butter cookie and ginger aromas. These are followed by a fine bead of bubbles,
while great acidity keeps it lively. Mineral, chiseled
stone and vanilla notes build on the palate and linger on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58

Iron Horse 2019 Wedding Cuvée Sparkling
Blend (Green Valley of Russian River Valley). Fascinating but restrained flavors of apricot,
yellow plum and raspberry are revealed on the palate, backed by subtle acidity and a nice, dry tension
in the balance. This elegant wine is light amber/
salmon in color, and offers complexity, depth and a
mouthwatering texture. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58

Jayson 2021 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This
classic, proven style of toasty but balanced
Chardonnay will be perfect for a dinner party. It is
dry, appetizing and just rich enough in texture to
pair with grilled fish, roast chicken, even steak.
Savoring on its own brings out a creamy, layered
palate of poached pears and vanilla bean. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Jayson 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).
Focused and concentrated, this eye-opening
wine is bright in acidity and fresh in citrus, thyme
and parsley flavors. A mineral quality emerges on
the sip and leaves a touch of tannin for an extraappetizing middle and finish. Hidden Gem. —J.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $45

Kobler 2022 Bacigalupi Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Sleek and elegant, this perfectly balanced wine offers ripe but
tangy flavors of Pippin apples and Bosc pears with
light butter, vanilla and cream accents. Good acidity
matches the rich fruitiness for a seamless mouthfeel and lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $85

Korta Katarina 2016 Plavac Mali (Dingac).
Dark ruby to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of elderberry, brambly berries and black tea.
A blanket of robust tannins encases cassis, blackberry, mint leaf, dark chocolate and clove flavors.
The chewy finish is marked with a note of violet.
Drink now–2038. Katharine’s Garden LLC. Cellar
Selection. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28

La Spinona 2018 Bergera-Pezzole (Barolo).
Fragrant and lifted, this Barolo opens with
aromas of mixed wild berries, truffle, savory spice
and wild roses. The palate is well-structured and
frames the wild cherry aromas alongside dried
thyme finishing with savory and earthy notes. Drink
2025–2045. Grantham Distributing. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75

La Spinona 2019 Bricco Faset (Barbaresco).
This wine presents a darker fruit profile on
the nose with notes of cherry, blue-violet, savory
spice and dried herbs that all elegantly intertwine.
Fine tannins accompany notes of leather, chai spice
and tobacco. The wine exhibits a balanced and
refined character, finishing with elegant tannins
and vibrant acidity. Drink now–2045. Grantham
Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65

La Spinona 2019 Secondine (Barbaresco).
Macerated strawberries, dried cherries,
savory spice and herbs create an enticing aroma in
this refined and earthy Barbaresco. It showcases a
firm and structured profile, with high-toned red
fruits, chalky minerality and lively acidity. A wine
worthy of your wine cellar. Drink 2026–2045.
Grantham Distributing. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75

Lodali 2020 Rocche Dei 7 Fratelli (Barbaresco). This Barbaresco is a study in balance. It opens with aromas of dark cherries mixed
with savory spices, wild herbs and fresh flowers. The
palate is giving, with mixed wild red fruits combined
with black tea, licorice root and a mineral finish. A
classy wine that will only get better. Drink 2028–
2040. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 149

BUYINGGUIDE

Logos 2017 Selección (Navarra). This blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and
Merlot has a nose of blackberry, cassis, violet and
black pepper. It is smooth on entry, offering blackcherry, Mission fig, milk-chocolate, coffee-bean and
lavender flavors. Polished tannins glide across the
palate and linger for a while. Lovemark Advanced
Trading Holding LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $110

M. Chapoutier 2020 Les Meysonniers
(Crozes-Hermitage). Aromas of black cherries, licorice, violets and black peppercorn are
enveloped by dry earth. The palate is currently a
bit wound but mirroring notes of blackberry, violets
and clove peek through. There’s plenty of energy
and beauty to be revealed, given its structure. Give
this wine a proper decant before enjoying or cellar
well through 2035+ before revisiting. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —A.C.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $46

Malvirà 2010 Riserva Renesio (Roero).
Aromas of smoked black plums, campfire,
sandalwood and oak spice waft from the glass. The
generous and forward palate offers black cherry,
leather, sweet tobacco with burnt sage. Structured
with firm tannins, the wine can go even longer in
the cellar. Drink now–2035. Indigenous Selections.
Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
150 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Malvirà 2010 Riserva Trinità (Roero).
Intense aromas of dark-berried fruit,
medicinal herbs and violets open the nose of this
Roero Riserva. Mouthfilling with cherry preserves,
sweet tea, leather and oak spice giving way to supple
tannins with a powerful finish. Drink now–2035.
Indigenous Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $40

Markham 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This serious and refined wine
wraps abundant black fruit and oak spice flavors
in medium to full tannins that give it an elegant
structure and appetizing bite. Find black currants,
blueberries and chocolate cherries that are delicious without turning sweet. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48

Paraduxx 2020 Proprietary Red Blend (Napa
Valley). Extravagantly ripe in flavor and
generously spiced from oak aging, this full-bodied
wine is a well-behaved monster. Full tannins wrap
around the blackberries, blueberries, cedar and cinnamon and are deep enough to keep echoing on the
finish. Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $56

Reynolds Family Winery 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So suave
and layered, this posh and spicy wine opens with
a tempting smoky, tobacco and cedar aroma before
lush, dried blueberry and blackberry flavors saturate the palate. Substantial tannins add structure
for a good grip in the texture. Opulent oak spices
carry into the finish. Best from 2025–2035. —J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $68

Sangiacomo 2021 Green Acres Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Seamless in texture
and pure in fruit flavor, this elegant wine combines
vibrant lemony acidity with fresh, focused Bosc pear
and golden apple flavors that really sing. The wine
is well-balanced, clean and fruity, but also subtly
accented by baking spices. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $68

Serres Ranch 2019 Watriss Estate Bordeauxstyle Red Blend (Sonoma Valley). Rich,
mouthfilling and packed with dried-fruit flavors,
this full-bodied blend led by Cabernet Franc boasts
blackberries, blueberries, milk chocolate and mint
flavors on a broad but slightly gripping texture of
fine-grained tannins. It has the concentration,
structure and purity of fruit to improve with aging.
Best from 2027–2037. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
Price: $85
abv: 14.8%

St. Supéry 2018 Élu Estate Bottled Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Napa Valley). Inviting chocolate, cinnamon and cedar fill the aroma of
this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine before
a generous dose of black cherries, mint and dark
chocolate coat the palate. The wine is so tempting now for its complexity and richness. Best from
2025–2035. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90

St. Supéry 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Luscious and ripe black
fruits ride an effortless texture in this seamless
and well-balanced wine. Minutely grained tannins
weave through dark plums, spearmint, cocoa and
black cherries. While enticing and drinkable, the
wine should have a long, more complex life ahead.
Best from 2027–2040. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $58

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2020 Fay Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). This perfumed and perfectly balanced wine brings a little
restraint to the table. Raspberry, blackberry and
mint flavors are braced in a lively way by good fruit
acidity and moderate tannins for a slight grip in
the texture. The wine will be easily paired with
savory, meaty dishes and worth cellaring. Best
from 2025–2035. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $160

Textbook 2021 The Pey Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Punchy tannins, interesting leather and tobacco complexity,
and a core of black currants and black olives help
this wine stand out from the pack. Just ripe without
overdoing it, the black fruits are deep and complex
but also fresh and savory. Best from 2025. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $46

T. Berkley Wines 2021 Singing Hills Vineyard
Cabernet Franc (Chalk Hill). A touch lean in
texture and not overblown in flavor, this wine offers
terrific refreshment and palate-cleansing qualities, and is the kind of pour that’s not tiring. Floral,
toasty aromas and tasty blackberry and black currant flavors show accents of grilled herbs and iron,
with medium-plus tannins. The wine will be best
from 2025–2032. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50

The Calling 2020 Single Vineyard Series
Sullivan Vineyard Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Nicely contrasting lively
and rich sensations, this well-balanced wine scatters lemon zest and pineapple notes among poached
pears and toasted almonds. The generous fruit,
vanilla bean and honey touches give it depth and
complexity. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55

The Calling 2021 Single Vineyard Series Fox
Den Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Beautifully balanced, deliciously fruity and nicely spiced
with oak, this concentrated wine has everything
going for it. Moderate tannins shape the tempting fruit, cinnamon and mint flavors on the palate
and indicate further aging is a good idea. Best from
2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $62

The Calling 2021 Single Vineyard Series Terra
de Promissio Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This charming, elegant wine opens with fresh raspberries and red cherries in the nose before nervy
sour cherries, balsam and redwood-duff nuances fill
the palate. The wine has complexity, savoriness, and
a tangy, appetizing balance that keeps one begging
for more sips. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $78

The Landing 2021 Chardonnay (North Island).
An enticing and transparent nose of lightly
roasted buttered cashews, preserved lemon and
cantaloupe give this NZ Chardy, from the northern Bay of Islands, salty, windswept seaside vibes.
There are precision, freshness, curves and textural
appeal—a well-executed and harmonious bottling.
Cooper Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
WINE ENTHUSIAST | 151

BUYINGGUIDE

The Setting 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). Thick and concentrated,
this impressively structured and deeply flavored
wine is a bit monolithic at this young age, boasting
dark chocolate, graphite and espresso flavors interlaced with firm, sandy and gripping tannins. It has
the stuffing needed to age and improve dramatically
with time. Best from 2028–2038. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $95

The Setting 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). This deeply concentrated and
robust wine sports potent black fruits, enticing oak
spices, a full body and medium to full tannins. The
wine seems infused with blackberries, black cherries, espresso and wood-char flavors that are hearty
and mouthfilling, ready to pair with rich proteins.
Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $145

The Setting 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). Subtle oak spices and mild herb
accents are layered with crisp, tangy lemon, green
apple and kiwi flavors in this lively, textural and
almost tannic wine. Vivid acidity does most of the
talking, lending a palate-cleansing, mouthwatering
effect that’s exciting. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $55

152 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Three Sticks 2021 Alana Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Pretty baking spices
fill the aroma of this full-bodied, warmly fruity
wine. Next, black cherries and sour cherries light up
the palate, backed by light tannins and good acidity.
The wine is nicely balanced, energized and flavorful,
ready to drink through 2029. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $85

Tirriddis NV Barrel Fermented Blanc de
Blanc Rendition #3 Sparkling Blend (Columbia Valley). The Tirriddis wines just keep getting
better. This sparkling Chardonnay with a bit of
Pinot Gris is clean and fresh, with aromas and
flavors of white peach, lemon zest, caramel, chalkboard dust and saline. Frisky bubbles tickle everything. Editors’ Choice. —M.A.
abv: 13.56%
Price: $38

Trentadue 2021 La Storia Estate Bottled
Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Dense, ripe
and rich, this inky-dark, dramatic wine is saturated
in blackberries and boysenberries wrapped in thick,
soft tannins that coat the mouth. While full-bodied
and tannic, it’s still velvety in texture and easy to
sip. Pair with barbecue, burgers or aged cheese.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38

Vatan 2019 Vatan Tinta de Toro (Toro). Deep
ruby in the glass, this wine has a nose of
cassis, black cherry, caramel and sage. Opulent tannins slowly build in volume alongside blackberry,
purple-plum, chocolate-covered-espresso-bean and
butterscotch flavors with a hint of mint tea on the
enduring finish. Drink through 2039. Jorge Ordóñez
Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.D.
abv: 15%
Price: $50

We Know Jack! 2021 Jack Florence Sr. Vineyard Single Block Zinfandel (Rockpile). Very
ripe and concentrated, yet not heavy, this sleek
wine boasts raspberries and blackberries on a full
body laced with light tannins. The focused, pure
fruit flavors are delicious to taste and will be easy
to pair with pasta, meat and rich fishes like salmon.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.75%
Price: $78

50 Harvests 2017 Meritage (Napa Valley).
Chocolate-mint aromas greet the nose
before a grippy texture and rich cocoa, spearmint
and blueberries flood the palate. This wine is sleek
yet muscular, showing ample richness and ripeness backed by firm but polished tannins. Best from
2025–2035. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.8%

Alexander Valley Vineyards 2020 Wetzel
Family Estate Merlot (Sonoma County).
Beautiful, broad and plush, this structured but
charming wine overflows with red fruits and baking
spices, with a vibrant core of black currants. Great
concentration, moderate tannins and good acidity
mean the wine tastes fresh and deep from the first
sip to the last. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $24

Aperture 2020 Soil Specific Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This handsome,
concentrated and textural wine is deep in blackberries, blueberries and espresso flavors wrapped in
firm, chewy tannins for a grippy texture that needs
time to mellow. Decant if drinking soon. Best from
2026–2036. —J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $75

Banfi 2020 Belnero (Toscana). On the nose,
aromas oscillate between hot and woodsy,
as peppery grilled meat and tar manage to accommodate softer notes of moss, mushrooms and soil.
A berry undertone surges on the palate, with hints
of vanilla and chocolate providing a sweet balance
to an enduring heat, firm tannins and stinging acid.
Banfi Vintners. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $30

Bodegas Olarra 2016 Laztana Gran Reserva
(Rioja). A bouquet of blackberry, raspberry
and herbes de Provence wafts from the glass. Firm
but well-integrated tannins play host to Mission
fig, cassis, eucalyptus and dark-chocolate flavors. A
soft but pleasant note of earthiness remains on the
palate after the last sip. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $60

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Bedarra 2020 Estate Malbec (Alexander Valley). Showing as black to the rim, this rich
wine is as deeply concentrated with flavors as it is
with color. Drenched in dark chocolate and baked
blueberries, the palate is lush, soft and deep, while
the tannins are rather gentle, making it smooth on
the sip. Best through 2028. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50

Avancia 2022 Old Vines Godello (Valdeorras).
Light yellow in the glass, with flecks of gold,
this wine proffers a bouquet of apricot, mint tea and
orange zest. It is full in the mouth, with flavors of
Valencia orange, lemon, Bartlett pear, sage leaf and
vanilla. The finish offers a splash of pineapple and
a touch of flint. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.D.
Price: $37
abv: 13.5%

Bodegas Olarra 2016 Añares Gran Reserva
(Rioja). Floral notes dominate a bouquet
that also includes black cherry, blackberry and milk
chocolate. Velvety tannins encase blackberry, Mission fig, butterscotch and anisette flavors that gently
fade into a smooth finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $45

Bodegas Olarra 2016 Rivallana Gran Reserva
(Rioja). This deep-violet-colored wine offers
aromas of cassis, blackberry and dried Mediterranean herbs. Tannins come on full force and dissolve
to reveal black-currant, mocha, sage-leaf, lavender
and fennel-pollen flavors. The long-lasting finish
is marked with a splash of pomegranate. Tri-Vin
Imports. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Bodegas Olarra 2019 Otoñal Selección
Especial Reserva (Rioja). This wine has
black-currant, juniper-berry and brined greenolive aromas. It is spicy at first sip, with clove and
eucalyptus flavors joined by bold tannins and blackcherry, blackberry, dark-chocolate and dried thyme
flavors. Cool herb notes dominate the lasting finish.
Tri-Vin Imports. —M.D.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
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Caiarossa 2020 Pergolaia (Toscana). On the
nose, aromas of rose petals soften a strong,
astringent fruitiness, while savory notes of earth
and ash lead onto a palate that starts meaty and
spicy, before a gentle, tempering sweetness eventually emerges to provide a sense of comfort. Intentional and satisfying. Misa Imports. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Cormorant Cellars 2021 Preston Vineyard
Rhône-style White Blend (Dry Creek Valley).
With a harmonious interplay between fruity, savory
and spicy references, this medium-bodied blend of
Grenache Blanc and Marsanne offers a creamy but
lively texture and good complexity. Subtle and crisp
apples, light baking spices and a touch of butter are
revealed with more sips, and linger on the finish.
Hidden Gem. —J.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $27

Campo Eliseo 2021 (Rueda). This mediumyellow-colored wine has a nose of nectarine, Bartlett pear and sliced ginger. Pineapple,
carambola, eucalyptus, vanilla and rose-petal
flavors mingle with shimmering acidity and full
viscosity. Pineapple and ginger light up the finish.
Pardela USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $59

Clos du Val 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Fresh, crisp and almost chewy, this
lively wine combines appetizing acidity, subtle oak
spices and bright apple, lemon and kiwi flavors. The
wine offers great balance and food pairing possibilities for lunch, appetizers and first courses. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $55

154 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Cupere 2021 Mariola Ridge Vineyard Chance
Romance Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This
wine has a brilliant yellow-gold color that leads to
fresh, vibrant oak and fruit flavors in equal measure.
Light toast and baking spices match the bright Fuji
apple and pineapple flavors, all backed by snappy
acidity. The wine is big but well-balanced, ready to
sip on its own or with dinner. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65

Domaine Divio 2021 Les Climats Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). This balanced beauty
represents a great value in the Willamette Valley Chardonnay renaissance. The wine’s cilantro
and juniper aromas are counterpointed by butter,
lemon-zest and pear notes. A round-in-the-mouth
texture is graced by elevated acidity and flavors
of lemon gelato, basil, ginger and toasted filberts.
Editors’ Choice. —M.A.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $30

Donnafugata 2021 Ben Ryé (Passito di Pantelleria). This wine is light copper in both color
and aroma, as yellow peaches and dried apricots play
with varied orange notes on the nose. On the palate,
the stone fruit and citrus continue glowing, before
a warm, honeyed, almost syrupy finish that recalls
a beeswax candle. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —D.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Dry Creek Vineyard 2022 Sauvignon Blanc
(Dry Creek Valley). All freshness and lift,
this vibrant, herbaceous and yet elegant wine tops
honeydew melons and Meyer lemons with flatleaf
parsley on a dry, nicely tangy texture that whets the
appetite. It gets some of its extra verve from Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Gris grapes that make
up 21% of the wine. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25

Educated Guess 2021 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Luscious, deep and full, this wine packs
plenty of red and black fruits in moderate tannins,
lacing them with orange zest, graphite and espresso
for complexity and interest. Supple enough to drink
young. Best from 2026. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Educated Guess 2021 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Nicely structured for a tangy, grippy
texture, this appetizing and concentrated wine
boasts ripe strawberries, red plums and black cherries on moderate tannins. Tangy acidity and the
fresh-tasting fruitiness set it up for infinite, good
food pairings. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

Hendry 2020 Hendry Block 28 Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). So structured and textural
that it begs for a sirloin steak, this hearty, ripetasting and moderately tannic wine can be decanted
and enjoyed now or matured for several more years.
Aged in 65% new French barrels, it offers dark
plums, mulled black cherries and accents of cedar,
chocolate and mint. Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $40

Iron Horse 2019 Winter’s Cuvée Sparkling
Blend (Green Valley of Russian River Valley). Intricate earthy, nutty, smoky aromas lead to
equally complex fruit, spice and mineral flavors in
this elegant, nicely mature-tasting wine made from
half Pinot Noir and half Chardonnay. A silky texture and full body carry the subtle and savory notes
through a lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75

Finca la Celia 2018 Eugenio Bustos Cabernet
Sauvignon (Uco Valley). From the deep soils
of Eugenio Bustos in the Uco Valley comes this Cabernet Sauvignon that features a smooth texture and
a balanced blend of fruit, alongside light notes of
eucalyptus, thyme and bay leaf. Nice acidity energizes the palate and lifts oak spices that linger in
the finish. Drink through 2028. Apollo Fine Wines
& Spirits. —J.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $90

Gary Farrell 2019 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). This super-attractive
Zinfandel from a Pinot Noir producer has a bright,
tangy quality that will pair especially well with Italian tomato-based dishes. Raspberries, dried cherries and a light earthy, brambly quality make it
interesting to savor. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55

Hendry 2020 Hendry Blocks 7 & 22 Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). Plush in texture, saturated
in dark plums and berry pie flavors, this broad,
mouthfilling wine has a huge presence. Ripe, almost
sweet fruits are wrapped in light tannins on a very
full, high-alcohol body so each sip goes a long way.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $40

J. Lohr 2021 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This luxurious wine
maxes out the ripe black and blue fruits and chocolaty oak spices for a palate-coating, mouthfilling and
sweet-seeming delight. Pair with an equally indulgent roast or grill, or perhaps with chocolate. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60

Highwayman 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Dark and delicious
flavors fill out the velvety tannins of this full-bodied, fruit- and spice-saturated wine for a potent,
palate-coating effect. Cocoa, espresso and clove
aromas lead to lush black cherries, blackberry syrup
and oak-char flavors. Best from 2025–2032. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55

Jarvis 2018 Estate Merlot (Napa Valley).
Nicely balanced between ripe black fruits,
structuring acidity and light tannins, this wine is a
good, serious candidate for almost any bird or beast
entrée. Dark plums, maraschino cherries and a hint
of cedar give plenty to savor. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $190
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Jayson 2021 Bordeaux-style Red Blend
(Napa Valley). This mouthfilling and gentle-textured blend based on 76% Merlot floods the
palate with late-picked blueberries and cherries
that are layered with vanilla and milk chocolate
nuances for an almost sweet effect on the palate
and finish. The wine is luscious enough to drink
soon, and through 2032. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $75

Kobler 2021 Coastal Cuvée Syrah (Sonoma
Coast). A deep color, vivid black-fruit flavors and muscular tannins give this wine made from
Syrah clone 877 a striking personality and very firm
texture. The black cherry, black pepper and grilled
plum notes are concentrated and mouthwatering.
Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $60

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Kenwood 2021 The Barn Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This dynamic, sleek and well-balanced wine offers woodsmoke and black cherry flavors on a compact frame of moderate tannins and
good, nervy acidity. The wine has a lip-smacking
quality that keeps you sipping, and will be very versatile in food pairings. Best through 2030. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65

Kobler 2021 Bacigalupi Vineyards Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley). Power, structure and
complexity all come together in this spicy, full-flavored and relatively tannic wine. Wafting from the
glass, black pepper, blackberries and hints of smoky
oak meld on the palate with rich, saturated black
fruits, grilled plums and singed sage. Enjoy now–
2033. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $60

156 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Kobler 2021 Cuvée of the Fog Syrah (Green
Valley of Russian River Valley). Violets, oak
char, black cherries and sour cherries are the first
impressions of this full-bodied and firmly tannic
wine. The palate turns juicy, fluid and rich, partially
melting the tight structure. While rambling and
rowdy, the wine will shine with roast venison or a
cassoulet. Best from 2026–2032. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60

Kunde 2019 Bordeaux-style Red Blend
(Moon Mountain District Sonoma County).
Rich in oak spices, this fully tannic wine grips black
cherries, blueberries and bitter chocolate in a tight
texture that needs time to resolve and let more generous flavors shine through. Decant an hour early
if you must drink it soon. Best from 2027. Cellar
Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $100

Kunde 2019 Heritage Block Estate Zinfandel
(Sonoma Valley). Dark, rich fruit flavors
and handsome oak spices make a good combo in
this full-bodied, ripe and tempting wine. Moderately tannic, it will make a good pairing with ribs or
chops, and will be equally good after dinner with a
chunk of Parmigiana. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40

Kunde 2021 Estate Zinfandel (Sonoma
Valley). Absolutely delicious, fruity and
mouthcoating, this full-bodied and gentle-textured
wine is easy to drink and enjoy on its own or with
cheesy, meaty proteins. Pure raspberries, blackberries and plum jam flavors flow on a broad texture
backed by light tannins. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $22

Kunde 2022 C.S. Ridge Vineyard Estate
Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Heady, spicy
and toasty aromas recall the glory days of powerforward Chardonnay. A full body, rich pear and
pineapple-nectar flavors follow through in the same
style. Lots of ripeness, new oak and butter are on
display here, perfect for fans of this style. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38

Mount Peak 2020 Rattlesnake Zinfandel
(Sonoma County). Packed with delicious
berries and going light on the oak spices, this
focused, joyful wine overflows with buoyant boysenberry jam, raspberry tart and fresh blackberry
flavors. Light tannins and a full body allow the effusive fruits to shine through. —J.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $55

Naveran 2021 Perles Roses (Cava). This
poached-salmon-colored sparkling wine
offers aromas of nectarine, jasmine and vanilla.
It has flavors of strawberry, caramelized pineapple, cocoa butter and orange blossom. A soft note
of slivered almonds endures on the palate. Olé &
Obrigado. —M.D.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47

Louis Latour 2020 Chateau de Blagny Premier
Cru (Meursault-Blagny). Aromas of lemon
zest, orange oils and acacia delight with precision.
Pure and delicate notes of lemon, orange oil, geranium, white mushroom, brioche and crushed stone
gently lingers on the palate along its long vanilla finish. Louis Latour Inc. —A.C.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $149

Louis M. Martini 2020 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Mountain Rhône-style Red Blend (Sonoma
Valley). Great balance, fresh fruits and lively oakspice accents come together in this deceptively
full-bodied wine made from mostly Grenache and
Syrah grapes. It is big enough to pair with steak and
refreshing enough for salmon and quail. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65

Malvirà 2011 Riserva Renesio (Roero).
Woodsy aromas with candied cherry, and
medicinal spice open the nose of this wine. Savory
on the palate with loads of earth notes, the mouthfilling palate has a solid core of cherry. Tannins are
still youthful with warm baking spices and earth
notes on the finish. Indigenous Selections. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $40

Nisia 2022 Las Suertes Old Vines Verdejo
(Rueda). Aromas of lemon-lime, peach and
orange blossom pave the way for flavors of lemon
tart, toasted pineapple, fennel pollen, vanilla bean
and rose petal. Notes of anise and orange zest endure
on the taste buds. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $33

Piper Sonoma NV Brut Reserve Sparkling
Blend (Sonoma County). Wafting orange
pith, tangerine and white raspberries, this lightsalmon-hued wine pops nervy raspberries, cranberries and lime zest on the palate for a tangy, refreshing and dry expression that is mouthwatering. It is
light, lean and elegant, best for educated palates.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27

Quattro Theory 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Potent, pure blackberries
and black currants fill this full-bodied wine with
luscious fruitiness from the first sniff through the
palate impression and lingering finish. Dark chocolate, spearmint and light oak char blend nicely into
the fruit flavors. Best from 2025. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Quinta Vale D. Maria 2020 Vinhas Velhas
(Douro). A field blend of grapes from old
vines, aged for nearly two years in wood, this is a
dense, powerful wine. Still young, the wine has layers of black fruits and tannins, giving concentration
and great potential. Drink from 2026. Aveleda Inc.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70

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Rodney Strong 2021 Merlot (Sonoma County).
Drenched in black fruits and dark spices, this
velvety, mouthfilling wine wows the palate with rich
blackberries, black currants and cedar notes, wrapped
in noticeable, shaping tannins. One of the more structured Merlots, it will pair with food by Cabernet standards. Best from 2025. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23

Rotari 2014 Flavio Riserva Brut (Trento). As
the wine is poured, heady aromas of roasted
nuts, baked peach, apple, honey and fresh bread
enchant the senses. Full-bodied, it strikes a balance
between power and finesse, showcasing rich orchard
and stone fruit flavors. Notes of oak spice and walnut
add complexity, while a crisp acidity and fine perlage
complete the captivating experience. Drink now–
2030. Prestige Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.P.
abv: 13%
Price: $104

Rotari 2018 Metodo Classico Blanc de Blancs
Extra Brut (Trento). Enticing aromas of
baked apples, freshly baked croissants, ginger and
white flowers pour from the glass of this mountaingrown sparkling wine. The pristine palate lifts as
the crisp acidity pops on the palate, balancing the
rich orchard fruit, lemon curd and creamy texture of
the wine that finishes with a flinty minerality with
a fine and elegant perlage. Prestige Wine Imports.
Editors’ Choice. —J.P.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30

158 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Schug 2022 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Well-structured, this textural and delicious
wine fills the mouth with grippy tannins, snappy
raspberries, black tea and rhubarb. Although not
too deep in color, it has a full body and lots of flavor
impact. Plus, the wine is available in quantity at an
affordable price. Pair with braised lamb shanks or
mushroom risotto. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $32

Tenuta Rocca 2019 Del Comune Di Serralunga
D’Alba (Barolo). Initially reserved, this wine
blossoms with air, revealing enticing aromas of sour
cherry, wild herbs and rosebud, accompanied by
subtle hints of truffle and earth. A solid representation of Comune di Serralunga, it showcases a macerated cherry core embraced by fine, firm tannins,
savory spice and vibrant acidity. Drink now–2035.
Prestige Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65

Sebastiani 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Brilliant red and black fruits
waft from the glass before rose petals, raspberries,
black cherries and spearmint light up the palate.
Mouthwatering acidity and lightly gripping tannins
add up to great balance in this generous, velvet-textured wine. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30

St. Supéry 2022 Virtú Estate Bottled Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A blend
of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc as is common in
Bordeaux, this medium-bodied and mouthcoating
wine is serious and substantive. Citrus, toast, pear
and a touch of honey blend nicely on the palate,
where a rich texture carries them through a lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $40

Terras Gauda 2022 O Rosal (Rías Baixas).
A nose of mixed citrus fruits prepares the
taste buds for nectarine, passion fruit, mango and
lemon-sorbet flavors. A soft note of rose petal and
honeysuckle lingers on the palate. Trinchero Family
Estates. —M.D.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28

Troon 2022 Vermentino (Applegate Valley).
This exhilarating wine smells like a Sicilian
lemon grove under a midafternoon sun. There’s also
aromas of a salty sea breeze and crushed granite dust.
The lithe and lean palate suggests tangerines and a
flavor similar to either green tea with lemon or a
cup of yerba maté. Either way, the wine’s acidity will
snap you out of the doldrums. Hidden Gem. —M.A.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $30

Vina Robles 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). This solidly satisfying style
of Paso Robles Cab will please many palates. Aromas of cocoa, black tea, coffee bean and elderberry
decorate the nose. The palate is tense in structure
but forgiving enough to present easily enjoyable
flavors of elderberry jam, warm oak and dark herb.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32

Aubaine 2021 Anahata Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). This lively Chardonnay opens with lime zest and pineapple aromas
that are soon joined by wisps of roasted almonds,
freshly cut grass and a pear tart. Lemon-basil tea,
toasted filberts, saline and wet slate flavors are complemented by a crisp mouthfeel. Enjoy now–2032.
Cellar Selection. —M.A.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $45

Castello di Amorosa 2018 Merlot (Napa Valley). A silky first impression leads to luscious
red and black cherries, blueberries, cinnamon and
vanilla in this full-bodied wine. It offers great concentration and pleasure without heavy tannins. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $46

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Winescape 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). This smooth, balanced Cabernet
Sauvignon also includes 8% Malbec and 4% Syrah.
Blueberry-gelato, orange-peel and bittersweet darkchocolate aromas are just the beginning. Sweet cherry
and blueberry flavors combine with lavender tea and
more dark chocolate. The mouthfeel is slick and slippery, with silky tannins. Editors’ Choice. —M.A.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $43

Bodegas Godeval 2022 Godello (Valdeorras).
Pale yellow to the eye, this wine has honeydew melon, apricot and smoke aromas. Vivid peach
and yellow-plum flavors are joined by vanilla-bean,
bergamot-flower and river rock notes. The vibrant
finish is marked with a splash of lemon-lime sorbet.
Lovemark Advanced Trading Holding LLC. Hidden
Gem. —M.D.
abv: 13%
Price: $45

Cellers Unió 2019 Roureda Llicorella Clàssic
Garnatxa Negra Carinyena (Priorat). Aromas
of black cherry, licorice and a hint of olive paste
waft from the glass. This wine features blackberry,
Mission fig, anisette, dark-chocolate and lavender
flavors all wrapped up in a cloak of plush tannins.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25

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Winescape 2019 Marmot Incarnate Red
Blend (Columbia Valley). Who can resist
a ground squirrel deity? This wonderful blend of
52% Syrah, 27% Malbec and 21% Mourvèdre has
a nearly perfect combination of sturdy tannins and
brisk acidity. It feels smooth and lively on the palate, with aromas and flavors of blueberries, baked
apples, lemon curd, sweet-pea flowers and caramel.
Editors’ Choice. —M.A.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $36

Bricoleur 2021 Kick Ranch Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Fountaingrove District). Bold
flavors and a good, grippy texture result from moderate tannins, fresh acidity and plenty of focused,
pure cherry and blackberry nuances in this fullbodied but well-behaved wine. Drinkable now, and
better through at least 2028. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85

Cellers Unió 2019 Roureda Llicorella Vitis
Carinyena Garnatxa Negra (Priorat). This
deeply hued wine has a nose of blackberry, butterscotch, clove and sage. Sturdy tannins start out
strong and gradually drift away, all the while
supporting Mission fig, purple-plum, chocolatecovered-espresso-bean, slightly burnt caramel, fennel and dried thyme flavors evaporate into a cherrypie finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30

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Cocchi 2017 Totocorde Brut (Alta Langa).
Baked apples, spice and brioche aromas
intertwine, accompanied by warm spice notes
resembling apple compote infused with cinnamon.
It presents a really pretty profile, with possible hints
of strawberry and definite cream notes. Light on the
palate yet very refreshing, it showcases crushed
stone minerality and is quite tasty. Alpenz. —J.P.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45

Convene By Dan Kosta 2019 Sunchase Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This generous, broad and almost jammy wine charms with its
ripe strawberries and red plums that spread quickly
across the palate. The wine develops more toastedoak nuances along with satisfying fruit and a rather
full body. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $74

Cupere 2021 Mariola Ridge Vineyard Love Is
A Gamble Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This
sturdy, well-structured, tightly wound and barrelfermented wine ideally needs time to develop. Firm
tannins and crisp acidity grip the palate, subduing
the attractive black cherry and sour cherry flavors
underneath. Best from 2027–2034. —J.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $65

160 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Decoy 2021 Limited Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Golden apples, green apples, vanilla
and cinnamon flavors pour out of this ripe and
indulgent wine. It has all the warm, buttery nuances
and rich texture that make California Chardonnay
so appealing. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30

Decoy 2021 Limited Merlot (Alexander Valley). This full-flavored Merlot could almost
pass for a Cabernet due to its generous tannins,
bold black-fruit flavors and satisfying depth. More
sipping reveals more fruit, more oak smoke and a
more mouthcoating texture. The wine will be best
from 2025–2030. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30

Domaine Divio 2021 Les Climats Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). The Les Climats, with
its tart black-cherry, mocha and cedar flavors, is an
excellent introduction to the elegant Domaine Divio
Pinots. Blackberry and thyme aromas unite with
notes of saline, woodsmoke and a trace of bacon fat.
A silky texture comes with velvety tannins and just
enough acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.A.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30

Dry Creek Vineyard 2021 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). Fresh berry-fruit flavors,
a good structure of moderate tannins and a velvety
texture make this wine a winner. A full body supports blackberry and raspberry notes for a delicious, appetizing expression. Incorporating 20%
Petite Sirah and 3% Alicante Bouschet grapes, the
wine is ready to drink any time. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45

Dutcher Crossing 2018 Mathy Wines CFM
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Potent
black fruits, firm tannins and a full body drive this
blackberry- and oak-spice-scented wine. Mouthfilling and rich, it enhances the deep fruitiness with
accents of cinnamon, mocha and mint. Best from
2026. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $95

Educated Guess 2021 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). A hefty, rich texture and a tempting
blend of baking spices and baked apples make this
full-bodied wine easy to appreciate. Ripe golden
apples and poached pears meet toasted almonds
and vanilla on the palate and continue into a lingering finish. —J.G.
Price: $30
abv: 14.3%

Escarpment 2021 Pinot Noir (Martinborough). This is rich and aromatic, with
cherry, baking spice and milk chocolate underscored by olive brine and an earthy, mineral core.
The palate shows equal density but it’s buoyed by
fresh acidity and tugged into place by spicy sinewy
tannins. Still young, this could cellar another few
years. Delicato Family Wines. —C.P.
abv: 13%
Price: $45

Ferrari-Carano 2019 PreVail West Face Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Alexander Valley). So
ripe and rich it tastes sweet, this chocolaty, oaky,
plummy and blackberry-jam-scented wine sips easily and goes down smoothly despite its size. The
jamminess subdues the underlying tannins and will
help the wine pair with spicy meat dishes, barbecue
and aged cheeses. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $100

Gary Farrell 2019 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lightbodied and delicate, this charming wine weaves red
cherry, cranberry, tangerine and lemon blossom flavors deftly on a tangy, refreshing texture. The wine
is from a storied vineyard property known for its
elegant wines. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $85

Gary Farrell 2019 Terra De Promissio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). This broad,
ripe-tasting and soft-textured wine relaxes in dark
plums, modest acidity and a medium body. It’s
mouthfilling, mouthcoating and rich with dried
black-fruit flavors. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75

Greg Norman Estates 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). This layered and
well-structured wine wraps powerful fruit flavors
in assertive oak spices and firm tannins. The wine is
enjoyable now if decanted and poured with a grilled
lamb chop, but will gain more complexity with time.
Best from 2026–2032. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21

Hess Collection 2021 Iron Corral Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich, broad
and mouthfilling, this generously fruity and gorgeously oaky wine is tempting to drink soon for its
delicious red and black cherries, black currants and
milk chocolate. Moderate tannins give it an appetizing texture. Best from 2026–2036. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.9%

Iron Horse 2019 Brut X Sparkling Blend
(Green Valley of Russian River Valley). Bone
dry, almost austere, this well-balanced and steely
wine offers stony, mineral and lean lime aromas that
meet with savory herb and earth tones and tangy
lemon on the palate. This acid-driven wine would
be great to pair with fresh-shucked oysters and a
classic mignonette. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $62

Iron Horse 2019 Ocean Reserve Blanc de
Blancs Sparkling Blend (Green Valley of Russian River Valley). This wine offers vanilla, coconut
and toasted brioche tones that lift out of the glass
before a plush, fine-beaded mousse soothes the palate. Pastry shop flavors have a sense of sweetness to
round off the wine’s texture, leaving it smooth and
soft. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $62

J. Lohr 2020 Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Known mostly for their
Central Coast wines, the Lohr family has long grown
grapes in Napa Valley, too. This mouthfilling, appropriately tannic wine wraps a grippy texture around
ample blackberry, cocoa and pencil-shaving notes
for a broad, brawny feel that will be great for pairing
with roasted or grilled beef, lamb and pork. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $60

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Jarvis 2018 Lake William Estate Bordeauxstyle Red Blend (Napa Valley). A toasty,
spicy, energized expression runs through this wine
from the first sniff to the lingering finish. Inviting
and assertive aromas of toast, black pepper, char
and anise lead to tangy red and black fruits on an
edgy, tannic texture. Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $325

Jarvis 2019 Estate Tempranillo (Napa Valley). Smooth, deeply fruity and lightly
spiced with oak, this harmonious wine is a pleasure
to sip. Black cherries, sour cherries and floral notes
practically sing, while a touch of bright acidity and
low tannins keep it fresh and inviting. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $110

Kirkland Signature 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Packed with dark
plums and black cherries, this well-structured wine
offers a good fruit core wrapped in full tannins and
accented with light vanilla, chocolate and cinnamon
notes from oak aging. Best from 2025–2035. —J.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $23

Kunde 2021 Estate Merlot (Sonoma Valley).
Dusky dark fruit and bay-leaf aromas lead
to a moderately tannic texture wrapped around flavors of roasted herbs, blueberries and tobacco. This
is a hearty, earthy and muscular wine with plenty of
toasted, spicy oak behind it. Best from 2026. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22

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Jermann 2021 Vintage Tunina (Venezia
Giulia). An icon of a wine, this latest vintage of Vintage Tunina opens with white peaches
drizzled with warm honey, roasted hazelnuts and
magnolia. The rounded palate mixes orchard fruits
and stone fruits that give way to candied lemon and
grapefruit and finishes with vibrant acidity and
minerality. Maze Row Wine Merchant. —J.P.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85

162 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

LangeTwins 2019 Thirty Eight Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Jahant). This wine opens
generously with layered aromas of black cherry,
plum and currant, roasted coffee, unsweetened
cacao, crushed violets, vanilla and nutmeg. Driven
by energetic acidity, the palate is tied together
by firm tannins, also integrating a glycerin-like,
rounded body from the alcohol. Find additional
notes of black pepper, star anise, clove and an animalistic umami in the background. —S.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32

Luis Duarte 2022 Rubrica (Alentejano). A
mix of wood and tank aging has allowed this
wine to retain great freshness. That sits alongside
the wine’s apple and kiwi flavors, its touch of toast
and spicy aftertaste. Drink from 2024. Specialty
Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24

Maison L’Envoyé 2021 Gamay Noir (Morgon
Côte du Py). A perfumed nose of rhubarb,
apricot, raspberry, strawberry and Bing cherry gives
life to this ruby-colored Morgon. Grippy tannins
kick in on the midpalate and lend robustness and
depth to the 40-year-old vines that gave birth to
this wine. This Côte du Py Morgon shows the seriousness of Grand Cru Beaujolais. Old Bridge Cellars.
Editors’ Choice. —R.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $21

Markham 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Very ripe, lush flavors of dried cherries and late-picked plums mingle with dark chocolate and espresso accents in this full-bodied, firmly
tannic wine as it saturates the palate. The wine is
robust and concentrated. Decant and drink now, but
it will be better from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48

Marqués de Riscal 2019 Reserva (Rioja).
This deep-violet-colored wine has aromas
of cassis, milk chocolate and geranium leaf. Strapping tannins provide a backdrop for menthol, clove,
blackberry-jam, violet and dark-chocolate flavors
that culminate in a chewy finish marked with notes
of butterscotch and thyme. Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23

Merry Edwards 2021 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Dense and structured, this
robust wine offers more than the usual tannins
and acidity, giving it a grippy mouthfeel and the
potential to mellow with time. Black cherries, black
currants and woodsy spices are there, waiting to
develop. Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65

Naveran 2021 Brut Vintage Rosé Organic
(Cava). Tiny bubbles erupt in this soft-pink
sparkler. Yellow-plum, pomegranate seed, Turkish
delight and flint aromas set the stage for clementine,
Gala apple, orange-blossom and lemongrass flavors
that wind down to pleasant note of oyster shell.
Olé & Obrigado. —M.D.
abv: 12%
Price: $24

Peachy Canyon 2021 Willow Zinfandel (Paso
Robles Willow Creek District). This is a clean
and stony expression of Zinfandel, in part due to
the 15% Grenache and 9% Petite Sirah in the mix.
Bright aromas of blueberry and strawberry slide
from the nose into a tightly wound, acid-backed palate of violet, boysenberry and crushed rock. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $44

Piattelli 2019 Arlene Series Blend MalbecCabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). Made of
85% Malbec and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, this
is a flavorful blend from the Cafayate Valley. The
nose delivers strawberry, blackberry and mint. Baking spices shape the character, while it has a good
amount of fruit flavors balancing the oak. Hints of
cassis, incense and mint linger in the aftertaste.
Vinocopia. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Precision Wine 2021 District Series Edition
No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Rich
and relaxed, this easygoing and deeply flavored wine
rolls over the palate with broad, juicy black cherries
and black currants tempered by subtle oaky notes of
vanilla and milk chocolate. Enjoy now–2028. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

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Naveran 2021 Brut Vintage Organic (Cava).
A soft column of bubbles releases a bouquet
of Seckel pear, vanilla bean and nutmeg. Lightly
effervescent on the palate, this wine offers flavors of
peach, green apple, vanilla and brioche that coalesce
in a vivid finish. Olé & Obrigado. —M.D.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $23

Pedroncelli 2021 Mother Clone Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). This layered, polished
and handsomely oaked wine brims with aromas like
vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. These lead to lush
berry and dark plum flavors on a texture of finegrained tannins. Velvety in mouthfeel and delicious
to sip, the American-oak-aged wine is best now–
2028. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $24

Quattro Theory 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Brilliant and vibrant, this nicely
nervy wine is packed with limes, lemons and grassy
nuances. A touch of salinity gives it mouthwatering
freshness plus a bit of food-friendly restraint. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30

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Quinta dos Murças 2021 Minas (Douro). A
finely structured wine with rich black fruits,
this is developing well. Its berry flavors are full of
juicy acidity as well as layered with tannins. With
its fruit and texture, the wine will age further. Drink
from 2026. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25

Quinta Vale D. Maria 2020 Vinha de Martim
(Lisboa). With some wood aging for nine
months, this balances fruit and a spicy character.
The wine comes from the grapes of 60-year-old
vines that give richness and acidity in equal measure. Drink now. Aveleda Inc. —R.V.
Price: $105
abv: 13%

Reynolds Family Winery 2020 Persistence
Red Blend (Napa Valley). Concentrated and
stalwart, this firm-textured Cabernet-based blend
wraps ample black fruits in full tannins, and spices
them with anise, dark chocolate and cloves. No
hurry to drink it, as time will mellow the texture and
bring out more complexity. Best 2026–2036. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $68

164 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Roth 2019 Heritage Bordeaux-style Red
Blend (Sonoma County). Attractive minty,
floral and chocolaty aromas lead to a mouthful of
rich, creamy black fruits and dark chocolate in this
seductive, full-bodied wine. The hefty tannins are
well-integrated for a velvety texture. —J.G.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $30

Sean Minor 2021 Invited Series Rossi Ranch
Grenache (Sonoma Valley). A tempting
cherry-chocolate aroma and warm, plummy flavors
make this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine
broadly appealing. The slightly chewy texture nicely
backs up the ripe, cooked berry and plum flavors for
great balance. —J.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $75

Sierra Cantabria 2019 Crianza (Rioja). Deep
garnet in color, this wine has a bouquet of
black currant, dried marjoram and violet. Glossy
tannins and black-cherry, purple-plum, vanilla,
licorice and lavender flavors fill the palate and drift
into pleasing candied-orange-rind finish. Jorge
Ordóñez Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24

Textbook 2020 The Pey Family Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley). This focused, forceful wine shades vivid lemon and lime flavors with
toasted oak, cloves and coconut nuances that give
it an attractive complexity. It’s fancy enough for a
dinner occasion, and appetizing enough for fish and
chips. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $25

Textbook 2021 The Pey Family Merlot (Napa
Valley). This suave, velvety wine is richly
layered in baking spices, cherries, berries and chocolate for an indulgent, almost sweet expression.
Tasty on its own or with a filet mignon, the wine
will please a crowd of red-wine-lovers. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $27

Textbook 2022 The Pey Family Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Tropical fruits meet
ripe apples in this well-balanced, fresh and forward
wine that also sports tempting accents of vanilla,
toast and butter. It’s light enough for a cocktail
party and rich enough for almost any appetizer.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
Price: $23
abv: 14.1%

Torbreck 2021 Woodcutter’s Shiraz (Barossa
Valley). Dense and chocolaty, this opens
with classic blackberry, blood-plum and blackpepper characters. It’s a big wine but not a hefty
one. Savory, fine tannins are comparatively gentle,
allowing the fruit flavor to shine. Balanced and
focused, it offers drinkability now when paired with
protein. Delicato Family Wines. —C.P.
abv: 15%
Price: $26

Vinafore 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A fascinating potpourri of cinnamon, cloves and cedar dominates the complex
aromas of this dark and aromatic wine. They lead to
spiced cherries, cranberries and dark chocolate on
the palate that linger on the finish. Best from 2025.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $22

Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2020 Escudo Rojo
Origine Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley).
The nose shows a classical Maipo Valley Cabernet. It’s
well-crafted, with nuances of oak and ripe fruit that
are nicely balanced by elegant texture and excellent
acidity. Chocolate is followed by plum flavors in the
earthy finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —J.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30

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Trione 2019 Henry’s Blend Geyserville Ranch
Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Alexander Valley). Nicely balanced, rounded and complete, this
wine offers minty, cinnamony oak spices in the
aroma, generous red and black fruit in the flavors,
and a smooth polish to the texture. It’s delicious
now, so no need for further aging. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60

V. Sattui 2020 Quaglia Vineyard Ancient Vine
Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Polished and with a
French-oak sophistication, this wine can substitute
for your favorite Cabernet at the next steak dinner.
Cedar, cinnamon and clove aromas lead to beautifully ripe and full black-fruit flavors wrapped in
fine-grained tannins for a good, grippy texture. Best
from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $58

Vinafore 2022 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This mellow and savory-tasting wine offers
bay leaf, black tea, mushroom and raspberry flavors
on a lush but well-balanced texture that leads to a
lingering finish. It’s easy to appreciate and showcases the grape variety’s inherent, delicious complexity. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22

Bogle 2020 Lake Winchester Vineyard Reserve
Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). This full-bodied,
deeply hued red immediately entices the senses
with pronounced aromas of black cherry and plum,
cacao, roasted coffee, fresh and dried tarragon,
cedar and sweet tobacco. The palate offers a soft,
round, glycerin texture that’s balanced by the firm,
structural tannins and modest acidity, with additional notes of plump Mission fig, olive tapenade,
black pepper, star anise and mixed-berry fruit
leather. —S.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28

Antigal 2020 Uno Platinum Edition Cabernet
Franc (Mendoza). There is no doubt that Cabernet Franc adapts well to Mendoza’s climate. Delicious wines at almost all price levels can be made.
This red displays bright aromas of red berries and
hints of clove and cinnamon. A touch of eucalyptus
adds freshness. Aged in oak barrels, it has enough
energy to carry the fruit and spice flavors, along
with dried herbs, through the minty finish. Cork
Alliance. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25

BonAnno 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Ripe, almost sweet fruit and oakspice flavors make this gentle giant of a wine easy
to enjoy. Smooth tannins wrap around cherry pie
and currant jam notes for a mouthfilling expression
that’s hard to resist. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Bricoleur 2021 La Rumeur Red Blend (Sonoma
County). Warmly ripe and deeply saturated,
this gentle giant of a wine was made from mostly
Zinfandel and Syrah grapes. It oozes delicious black
cherry jam and blackberry pie aromas followed by
a broad, velvety texture that carries the rich black
fruits, oak char and toasted cinnamon flavors
through a lingering finish. Decant and drink soon,
or through 2030. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65

Chalk Hill 2022 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
Broad, generous and buttery, this silky-soft
wine is full-bodied, carrying fresh apples, pears and
vanilla to a lingering finish. Oak accents like toast
and nutmeg dress it up nicely. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24

Clos de Napa 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Yountville). This wine is deep and dark in
color, extra-ripe in aroma and saturated with black
fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Grippy tannins give
it a hearty, robust mouthfeel. Best from 2026. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75

166 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Director’s Cut 2022 by Francis Ford Coppola
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Hard to beat
this wine for pure fruit richness, as it ladles out
Anjou pears, yellow peaches and a dollop of pineapple, all lazing in a smooth texture and full body.
While mouthfilling and ripe, the wine has just
enough tropical fruit acidity behind it for good balance. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21

Educated Guess 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa County). Darkly fruity and chocolaty,
this full-bodied wine is a good value for Napa Valley. Not too tannic, the wine wraps a smooth texture
around the ample dark plum, cocoa and cinnamon
flavors. Enjoy now through 2028 with roast beef or
Korean barbecue. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35

Foppiano 2021 Estate Grown Petite Sirah
(Russian River Valley). Juicy blackberries
and black cherries are lightly accented by mint and
chocolate in this full-bodied, deeply colored wine
from a family that’s been growing Petite Sirah for
generations. Full tannins merge nicely with rich
black-fruit flavors for a good sense of balance. Best
from 2025–2032. Hidden Gem. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28

Head High 2022 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). Vibrant and fruity, this full-bodied,
unoaked wine will be a star with fish and shellfish. It
melds a sense of richness from Bosc pears and Pippin apples along with appetizing acidity enhanced
by blocking the malolactic conversion. —J.G.
Price: $24
abv: 14.5%

John Duval Wines 2022 Concilio Grenache
(Barossa Valley). Heady, fruit-driven and
highly likable aromas of blueberry and strawberry
compote, with violet and white pepper undertones,
flow to a palate that’s midweight with a silky texture and succulent fruit. This crowd-pleasing Aussie Grenache is perfect for the in-between seasons.
Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $30

Kenwood 2019 Six Ridges Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). Well-polished and wellbalanced, this attractive wine pulls you in with cinnamon and vanilla oak aromas followed by ample
black cherry and dark plum flavors that are broad
and juicy. It’s smooth enough to decant and drink
now–2028. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $22

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Maddalena 2022 Merlot (Paso Robles). This
widely available, fairly priced bottling begins
with dark red fruit, caramel and woodspice aromas
on the nose. Smoothed-out tannins frame the sip,
where black cherry and cola make for a flavorful
expression. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25

Quilt 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
Powerful and rich-tasting, this wine from
Joseph Wagner is velvety in texture and spicy in
aroma. It drips with jammy, Port-like flavors that
are backed by fine-grained tannins that tighten a bit
on the finish for a good grip. Best from 2025. —J.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $55

Reynolds Family Winery 2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Bold, driedfruit flavors and a full body give this wine a lot of
heft on the palate, as firm tannins support dried
cherries, dried plums and black cherries. Pairing
with robust meaty, cheesy dishes seems ideal. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $68

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Mary Taylor 2019 Marine Descombe (Juliénas). Deep ruby in color, this wine has a
perfumed nose of raspberry, black tea and red currant with a hint of blueberry. Slightly grippy tannin affords added texture with some savory notes
on the back palate. This Juliénas tends toward ripe
summer fruit tempered by forest floor. Mary Taylor
Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32

Quinta do Ameal 2022 Solo Unico (Vinho
Verde). Loureiro is the grape of Ameal’s home
area, the Lima Valley. It is a ripe wine, full of white
fruits and lifted by acidity. This rich, textured wine
is ready to drink. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30

San Pedro 2020 Altair Red Blend (Cachapoal
Valley). Made with grapes from Cachapoal
Valley near the Andes Mountains, this Cabernetbased blend is rich and smooth. The nose exhibits
aromas of vanilla, cinnamon, earthy blackberry and
mulberry. Oaky notes are also prominent on the
palate but blend well with black fruit and cherries.
Round tannins and enough acidity provide a firm
frame. VSPT USA. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90

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Pertinace 2020 (Barbaresco). Wafting aromas of dried raspberry, strawberry, dried
leaf, earthiness and tea on the nose. On the palate,
the wine showcases warmed fruits with a darker
character, accompanied by preserved berries and
dark earthy notes on the finish. The tannins are
remarkably easy. Drink from now–2040. Freixenet
Mionetto USA. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Quinta dos Murças 2017 Reserva (Douro). A
structured fine wine with dense tannins and
acidity, this is just ready to drink. Its black fruits
are concentrated and full of ripe berry flavors. Drink
now. Now Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50

San Pedro 2021 Tayu 1865 Pinot Noir (Malleco). This is an earthy Pinot Noir from
Malleco Valley, a cool region in Chile’s Patagonia.
The nose offers aromas of raspberries, leather and
mushroom and introduces a textured palate, with
generous notes of meat, spices and herbs. The finish
is long and savory. VSPT USA. Hidden Gem. —J.V.
Price: $22
abv: 12.5%

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BUYINGGUIDE

Sonoma-Cutrer 2021 Dutton Ranch Estate
Bottled Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Tasty, fresh-sliced apples and pears are dressed in
floral tones that give this smooth, rounded wine a
generous, fruity expression. A medium to full body
and rich texture make it melt in the mouth. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $42

ZaHa NV Calcaire Método Champenoise Chardonnay (Argentina). From vineyards in Paraje
Altamira comes this Blanc de Blanc Nature sparkling. The wine was aged on its lees for 12 months,
creating a rounded mouthfeel. The nose offers white
peach, pear and hints of butter. It’s fruity, with citrus acidity and fine bubbles driving flavors of pome
fruit, lime and chamomile through the lasting saline
finish. Vino Del Sol. —J.V.
abv: 11.7%
Price: $21

Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2019 Scharzhofberger Brut Riesling (Mosel). This elegant
sparkler is finely meshed, showing signs of development while layering sleek acidity and a delicate
mousse with roasted nut, savory mineral, smoke,
petrol notes and hints of white cherry, biscuit and
ground ginger flavors. It is inviting with a long finish.
Delicato Family Wines. —A.Z.
abv: 12%
Price: $45

Trione 2020 River Road Ranch Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Butter, butterscotch
and toasted oak aromas give a sweet, candied quality to this low-acid, full-bodied and super-oaky
wine. Fans of richness, butter and caramel will love
it. —J.G.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%

90
90

Antigal 2020 Uno Platinum Edition Malbec
(Mendoza). Black tea, clove and cinnamon
form an aromatic bouquet. Bright berry flavors
blend with dark chocolate and whispers of chai
spices. This is a friendly and spicy Malbec with a
lingering finish. Cork Alliance. —J.V.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25

Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2022 Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen Kabinett Riesling (Mosel).
The core of firm acidity in this wine supports the
sweet notes of white-cherry, raspberry and ripe citrus flavors, extending with notes of mint and sage.
The mineral-based finish exudes sea salt and spice
details. Delicato Family Wines. —A.Z.
abv: 8%
Price: $32

Vina Robles 2020 Estate Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). Plummy notes of this estate bottling’s
nose are balanced by teriyaki and woodspice. Firm
tannins wrap around the sip, where roasted strawberry, cedar and more soy-like flavors align. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $36

90
90

Antigal 2022 Aduentus Special Barrel Selection Blanc de Blancs White Blend (Mendoza).
This is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and
Chenin aged for six months in oak barrels. Citrus
spices and herbs open the nose and introduce a flavorful palate with a texture that is both round and
elegant. Good acidity supports lemons and a dash of
ginger and vanilla. It pairs wonderfully with panna
cotta. Cork Alliance. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25

168 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Bodegas Bianchi 2019 Particular Family
Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Malbec might have eclipsed Cabernet Sauvignon in Argentina, but the truth is that the latter
thrives in many regions of Mendoza. This one hails
from San Rafael. It’s fruit-forward, with a nose of
berries and a touch of oak spice. The palate feels
fresh, delivering lots of raspberries, thyme and cinnamon. Lively acidity complements its soft round
tannins. Quintessential. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Ceralti 2021 Scirè (Bolgheri). The nose balances aromas of earth with flowers, while
candied cherries and wild strawberries bring a
bolder streak of sweetness. On the palate, vanilla
underlines that sweetness, before a resurgent
earthiness leads into a peppery finish, where the
acid finally pulls ahead of the tannins after a tight
race. HB Wine Merchants. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $23

LangeTwins 2019 River Ranch Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Jahant). Give this
wine at least 20 minutes to breathe fresh air and
be rewarded with a generous aromatic profile and
an integrated palate. Notes of fresh and dried black
cherry, cumin, coriander and violet potpourri meet
heartier tones of tar, kerosene, damp dirt and
roasted capsicum. Crunchy tannins coat the palate,
balanced by integrated alcohol and modest acidity.
—S.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $40

Rodney Strong 2020 Chardonnay (Chalk
Hill). Lively oak accents like vanilla, coconut and ginger give this rich and ripe-tasting wine a
spicy top note, while abundant ripe apples and pears
ground it in fruitiness. Simply delicious. —J.G.
Price: $30
abv: 13.5%

90
90

Herdade do Esporão 2022 Esporão Reserva
(Alentejo). Lightly wood-aged, the wine is
rich. Hints of yellow fruits and kiwi flavors are set
against the spicy, full body. It is ripe, its fruits still
much in evidence. Drink from 2024. Organic. Now
Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25

Jermann 2021 Where Dreams Have No End
(Venezia Giulia). Aromas of mixed stone
fruits, flowers, cream and baking spice open the
nose of this classic Chardonnay. The palate zigzags
between tart nectarine and lemon notes with more
textured and creamy notes leading to a pop of acidity on the finish. Maze Row Wine Merchant. —J.P.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85

Lucien Albrecht 2020 Spiegel Grand Cru
Riesling (Alsace). This richer, open-knit
and expressive Riesling offers a mineral streak
underscoring the flavors of white peach, quince
blossom and kumquat. It is nicely balanced with a
persistent finish. Foley Family Wines. —A.Z.
abv: 13%
Price: $32

Pandemonium 2021 Red Blend (Paso
Robles). Baked red-fruit aromas are quite
ripe on the nose of this bottling, which also offers
hints of woodspice and peppercorn. The palate grows
sharper with pomegranate and raspberry flavors, as
orange rind and marjoram add nuance. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40

Sean Minor 2022 Signature Series Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). A tempting cherry-chocolate aroma and warm, plummy flavors make this
full-bodied and moderately tannic wine broadly
appealing. The slightly chewy texture nicely backs
up the ripe, cooked berry and plum flavors for great
balance. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28

Silverado 2022 Miller Ranch Estate Grown
Sauvignon Blanc (Yountville). Ripe fruits
and lemony acidity come together well in this fullbodied and rather broad-textured wine that’s substantial enough for buttery fish and creamy pasta
dishes. Honeydew melon, Granny Smith apples and
lemonade notes fill in the middle. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 169

BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS

Educated Guess 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This is a full-bodied red, complete with chewy tannins that are well-met by the
dark fruits and savory oak tones. Find notes of black
currant, black cherry, toasted wood, fennel, tarragon, star anise and a hint of leather. —S.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20

BEST BUYS

Kenwood 2020 Six Ridges Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). An elegant, sleek texture
carries light and tasty green apples, minerals,
limes and chalk on a full body backed by bracing
acidity. This barrel-fermented wine is great value.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20

Recanati 2022 Yasmin Red Blend (Galilee).
This deep ruby wine has a nose of cranberry,
tobacco leaf and bittersweet chocolate. It is bright
on entry with pomegranate and raspberry flavors
joined by plush tannins and dark chocolate, coffee, lavender and fennel bulb notes that skate into
a minty finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. Best
Buy. —M.D.
abv: 13%
Price: $16

Rocca delle Macìe 2022 Campo Maccione
(Morellino di Scansano). The nose is primarily earthy, herbal and woodsy, like an old-growth
forest, but the bitterness of coffee and sweetness
of cherries and strawberries provide balance. The
cherries, strawberries and earthiness all continue
onto the palate, where tight tannins and bright acid
foreshadow an astringent blood orange finish. Palm
Bay International. Best Buy. —D.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20

BEST BUYS

Fly By 2020 Merlot (North Coast). This demonstrates how a $20 wine can be complex
and interesting, and how Merlot can be the star of
the show. Find layered aromas and flavors of roses,
red and black cherry, cinnamon spice, fresh fennel,
star anise and cedar wood knit together by a solid
backbone of tannins, rounded alcohol and a balanced dose of acidity. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20

Kirkland Signature 2021 Bordeaux-style Red
Blend (Napa Valley). This flavorful, relaxed
and deep wine is rich in blueberries, dried blackberries, cedar and mint aromas followed by a luxurious, velvety palate echoing dried fruits and oak
spices. It’s a posh, broad and generous wine that
goes light on the tannins. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11

Peter Zemmer 2022 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige).
Roasted apples, lemon peel and yeasty aromas lift from the glass of this classic mountain Pinot
Grigio. Flavors of green pears and flint define the
creamy palate that pops with tangy acidity on the
finish. HB Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —J.P.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19

170 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Cellers Unió 2021 Perlat (Montsant). This
deep-ruby-colored wine has a bouquet of
cherry pie and baking spices. Robust tannins are
wrapped around flavors of cherry preserves, blackberry liqueur, licorice, lavender and cinnamon, with
a closing splash of pomegranate. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —M.D.
Price: $15
abv: 14.5%

Le Grand Courtage NV Grand Cuvée Blanc
de Blancs Brut (France). Inviting aromas of
baked pears and floral notes kick off this Blanc de
Blanc. It’s mildly foamy on the palate, with lightly
concentrated flavors of juicy melon, stone fruit and
enough acidity to balance the fruit. Opici Wines.
Best Buy. —J.T.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20

BEST BUYS

Yá Cuvée 23 NV Brut Reserva (Cava). A persistent column of bubbles and aromas of white
peach, jasmine and rising bread prep the palate for
Granny Smith apple, apricot, toasted hazelnut and
cocoa-butter flavors. A nice wave of acidity washes
over the palate from first sip and lingers. Vinos
Libres. Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 12%
Price: $18

BEST BUYS

Banfi 2020 Centine Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Sangiovese (Toscana). The nose starts
earthy, salty and metallic, with cherries providing pop, but gradually a deep, nuanced sweetness
emerges with notes of dried fig and wild oregano.
Strawberries join the cherries to highlight the palate,
but balance comes from a continued herbaceousness,
with mineral stoniness and acid bouncing around
chewy tannins. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —D.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15

Yering Station 2022 Little Yering Chardonnay
(Victoria). A bright, fruity perfume of watermelon Jolly Rancher, lime leaf and orange oil opens,
with a mineral underbelly, like a river running beneath
the surface. Aromas flow to flavors. The melon is less
confected here thanks to a streak of lovely acidity.
There’s some richness and a roundness but always
drinkability. This is a top weeknight wine for Chard
lovers. Rathbone Wine Group. Best Buy. —C.P.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $17

Antigal 2021 Uno Malbec (Mendoza). This
is a ripe and juicy Malbec that offers aromas of berries and toasted oak. The palate is firm
and delivers plenty of plums and blackberry flavors.
After 12 months of oak aging, the wine is balanced
and shows notes of tobacco in the finish. Cork Alliance. Best Buy. —J.V.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15

BEST BUYS

Bogle 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For $11, this California Cab packs bags
of flavor. Find notes of black cherry, plum and currant, cinnamon, nutmeg, fennel, crushed violets and
toasted wood alongside mouthcoating tannins and
modest acidity. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11

90
90

Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2021 Escudo Rojo
Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley).
This wine has an aromatic bouquet that includes
notes of green bell pepper, plum, cherry and black
pepper. Herbaceous flavors mixed with plums, raspberries and baking spices on the round palate. A touch
of black pepper and eucalyptus provides a tasty finish.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy.—J.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20

Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2021 Escudo
Rojo Reserva Syrah (Maipo Valley). There is a
lovely aroma of berries in the glass. It has a full body
and nice acidity, energizing the firm palate, where
prominent notes of toasted oak add to its complexity.
Raspberries emerge in the finish of this smooth wine.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —J.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20

Cave Spring 2021 Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). A sweet and tangy blood-orange
aroma fills the air as wisps of petrol and coconut
water stake their claim on the fringes. The wine’s
elevated acidity and lean, crisp mouthfeel are complemented by flavors of barely ripe pineapple and
green tea sweetened with honey. HB Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —M.A.
abv: 11%
Price: $17

Cotarella 2020 Falesco Vitiano Virtù della
Vite (Italy). This wine offers a lot to enjoy.
Aromas of black plum, sweet tobacco, espresso
and floral notes entice. It strikes a balanced profile, showcasing ample fruit alongside savory notes
of earthiness, leather and rosemary. A solid value.
Trinchero Family Estates. Best Buy. —J.P.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $14

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 171

BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS

Fellow 2019 Merlot (Clarksburg). This superfriendly Merlot is a bang for the buck at
$20. The plethora of aromas and flavors includes red
cherry, wild strawberry, fresh and dried rose petals,
dusty forest floor, cumin, coriander, floral white pepper, cranberry, pomegranate and a strong hit of capsicum. All intertwine among fine-grained tannins,
lively acidity and modest alcohol. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20

Fly By 2020 Zinfandel (Lake County). With
20% Petite Sirah in the mix, this Zin
brings together notes of black cherry, dark chocolate, anise, olive tapenade, eucalyptus, violets and a
sanguine umami-ness. The coarse tannic texture is
well-met by the concentrated fruits, elevated alcohol and modest acidity. Drink now. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $13

Highway 12 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). A fresh breeze of citrus blossoms
in the aroma and tangy lemon-lime flavors give this
medium-bodied, well-balanced wine a refreshing
feel that begs for more sipping. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16

172 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

BEST BUYS

Le Grand Courtage NV Grand Cuvée Rosé
Brut (France). Aromas of crushed strawberry and roses open this pink sparkler. Its delicate mousse creates a creamy texture on the palate,
alongside subtle flavors of raspberry and lemon
pith. The elevated acid balances the red fruit. Opici
Wines. Best Buy. —J.T.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20

Luma Chequén 2020 Estate Bottled Gran
Reserva Carménère (Maule Valley). Earthy
aromas on the nose are followed by intense black
fruit. Smooth tannins support savory flavors of bell
pepper, black pepper, figs and blackberry that integrate well with delicious notes of dark chocolate.
The wine’s moderate complexity is backed by bright
acidity. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —J.V.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $17

Matsu 2022 El Picaro (Toro). Dark violetred to the eye, this wine has a nose of Mission fig and cassis with a touch of olive tapenade. A
web of sleek tannins harbors ripe summer cherry,
blackberry, milk-chocolate and rose-petal flavors.
The floral-infused finish is long and smooth. Vintae
USA, Inc. Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15

Real Companhia Velha 2021 Porca de Murça
Tinto (Douro). A classic Douro blend of four
varieties, the wine is rich and spicy. Foot-trodden
in open granite lagars, the fruit has developed a
smooth, lightly extracted character. Black fruits and
soft tannins mean it will be ready to drink from later
in 2024. Golden Ram Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15

Sonoma-Cutrer 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). A pale salmon color
to the eye, this light-bodied wine is subtle and cherrylike to the nose and brings a tangy apple and apricot vibe to the palate. It’s refreshing for sipping in
the sun and great with appetizers. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $20

Acrobat 2022 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Acrobat
is a fitting name for this nimble wine. It is
ligh- bodied, with lip-smacking acidity, velvety tannins and clean, fresh aromas of cherries and lemon
peel. Candied-rose-petal and raspberry flavors
evolve into something similar to a cup of hibiscus
tea with lemon. Excellent value. Best Buy. —M.A.
Price: $19
abv: 13.5%

BEST BUYS

ALDI 2021 Peaks & Tides Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This tasty, sturdy
and straightforward wine shows ripe blackberry
and blackberry flavors with light herbal accents. It’s
well-structured enough that there’s no great hurry
to drink it if you stock up. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12

Beronia 2019 Crianza Tempranillo (Rioja).
Dark violet-red in the glass, this wine has
aromas of raspberry, dried thyme and mocha. Bold
tannins are wrapped around purple plum, black
cherry, caramel, butterscotch and aniseed that sail
into a cherry-splashed finish. Gonzalez Byass USA.
Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 14%
Price: $14

Fellow 2021 Chardonnay (Clarksburg). Light,
crisp and refreshing, this quaffable Chard
offers integrated fruit-meets-oak notes of yellow
and green apple, honeysuckle, lemon meringue,
poached pear, nutmeg and vanilla. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18

BEST BUYS

McManis 2022 Estate Grown Viognier (River
Junction). This expression plays to the floral nature of Viognier with perfumy aromas and flavors of white grape, lychee, rose water, white peach
and nectarine. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.25%
Price: $12

McManis 2022 Pinot Grigio (River Junction).
This wine has nice medium weight and good
vivacity. A fun and refreshing palate is filled with a
surprising amount of flavors, with lemon, lime, lemongrass, kiwi, star fruit, cut grass, acacia blossom,
red and green apple, apple blossom and apple juice.
Drink now, on its own, just for fun. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 11%
Price: $10

Renzo Masi 2020 Riserva (Chianti). On the
nose, cranberries bring out the subtle astringency of cherries, while soil, herbs and hot tar provide
a savory dimension. The palate leans into the astringent fruitiness, but chalky tannins bolster a continued earthiness. HB Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —D.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $17

Three Thieves 2021 Chardonnay (California).
This light, delicate Chardonnay offers notes
of lemon, lime, jasmine, wet stone, white peach,
nectarine and dewy grass alongside crisp acidity. An
altogether refreshing sip. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11

Tutela 2022 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave).
Fresh, light and lifted, this wine wafts out
of the glass with aromas of floral, citrus and green
apple characteristics. It displays a round palate and
makes a solid effort, with lifted acidity on the finish.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —J.P.
abv: 12%
Price: $18

Fellow 2021 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). A
pale lemon hue in the glass, this wine offers
delicate notes of pear, pear skin, fresh coriander,
white pepper and hay carried by a solid dose of
acidity. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 173

BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS

Fellow 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Clarksburg).
A slight spritz alongside generous acidity
gives this wine a great sense of energy. It delivers
lively notes of lime zest and pith, tart green apple,
wet stone, mineral water, grapefruit, capsicum, cut
grass and jasmine blossom. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18

Kirkland Signature 2020 Suscol Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
This big, soft and almost syrupy wine exudes blackberry jam, cherry cola and cinnamon accents on a
broad frame of sandy tannins. Enjoy it with juicy
hunks of beef, pork or lamb. Best Buy. —J.G.
Price: $18
abv: 14.5%

BEST BUYS

McManis 2022 Estate Grown Chardonnay
(River Junction). This Chard takes me to a
tropical island, with lots of fruit and florals. Find
vacation-like notes of cherry blossom, white orchid,
peony, lily and white rose. White peach and nectarine, lychee, coconut, lemongrass, lime leaf, melon
and guava also join in. Sip happy. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $10

Piccini 2022 (Chianti). The nose is fresh, green
and slightly stony, like a well-manicured
lawn, with a slash of astringent fruit keeping things
interesting. Cherries flood the palate, but a persistent
earthiness is emphasized by chalky tannins and contouring acid, and leads into a finish of dark chocolate
and coffee. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —D.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $13

Lucien Albrecht 2021 Cuvée Balthazar Pinot
Blanc (Alsace). This is fresh and elegant with
mouthwatering acidity fueling the flavors of kumquat, apricot and lemon zest, leading to a stony and
floral finish. Foley Family Wines. Best Buy. —A.Z.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17

174 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Rodney Strong 2022 Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). So fruity
that it tastes sweet, this soft-textured wine is pillowy in honeydew melons and pear-nectar flavors,
with just a touch of citrus acidity. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18

BEST BUYS

Sand Point 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Simple but altogether balanced and
refreshing, this wine offers notes of lemon, lime,
grapefruit, green melon and orange zest. A slight
spritz adds an extra mouthwatering quality to this
high-acid wine. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $12

Trinity Oaks 2021 Chardonnay (California).
This medium- to full-bodied wine offers a
balanced, ripe to overripe fruit profile set alongside generous acidity and integrated oak tones.
Find notes of Meyer lemon, Golden Delicious
apple, pineapple juice, banana, nutmeg, clove and
acacia. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $11

Sand Point 2022 Pinot Grigio (California).
This simple, drink-me-now white has notes
of lemon, lime, river rock, sea salt salinity, cut grass
and just-ripe mango and pineapple. Best Buy. —S.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12

CALIFORNIA
CORRECTIONS
Reviews that appeared in November
2023 Top 100 Best Buys.

CHARDONNAY

Patz & Hall 2021 Bootlegger’s Hill Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lush, ripe Bosc
pears and golden apples dominate the palate of this
full-bodied but well-balanced wine made from the
Hyde-Wente clone. A streak of lemony acidity lifts
the rich flavors through a lingering finish. The wine
has all the opulence and vivid fruit one could want,
nicely accented by light oak spices and a touch of
butter. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.5%

TO ANOTHER
GREAT
30 YEARS.

95
J. Lohr 2021 South Ridge Syrah (Paso Robles).

— 93, M.K.
This is a very satisfying Syrah for a rather stunning price. Lush and generous aromas of baked
berry, hot spice cake and a touch of crushed
rock show on the nose. The palate is brooding
in cassis, boysenberry pudding and baking spice
flavors, framed by impressively deep tannins.
Price: $15
abv: 14%

Lombardi 2020 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Creaminess in the texture and deftly
layered flavors give this extraordinary wine an
almost irresistible attraction. So light but so rich
at the same time, the wine offers vanilla, butter,
poached pears and hints of caramel and toast, while
the finish is delicious and lingering. Great for a special occasion. —J.G.
Price: $48
abv: 14%

Patz & Hall 2021 Zio Tony Ranch Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Richness and depth
come with good balance, too, in this complex, beautifully oaked wine from “Uncle Tony’s” property,
managed by the Martinelli family. Opening with
toast and butterscotch aromas, it expands on the
palate in rich tones of baked apples, baking spices
and ginger. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.5%

Paul Hobbs 2021 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). Layered and well-concentrated, this
impressive wine stacks up cream, butter, toasted
almonds and poached pears for a lavish palate that’s
also nicely grounded in appley acidity. It will be eyeopening during cocktail hour and even better paired
with fish and shellfish. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.2%

PINOT NOIR

97
Paternoster 2022 Vulcanico Falanghina (Basilicata).
— 90, D.C.
A nose of fresh peach slices spritzed with lemon
gets a salty, savory boost from notes of tire and
pavement, while the palate is fruitier and juicier,
with a delicate, flowery finish. Vintus LLC.
Price: $20
abv: 13%

Bouchaine 2021 Estate Selection Mt. Eden
Clone Pinot Noir (Carneros-Napa Valley). Our
favorite of the 2021 clonal selections from Bouchaine. Polished to a tee, this elegant yet full-bodied
wine carries ample black fruits, oak spices and black
tea flavors while keeping great balance throughout.
It offers excellent depth of black cherries and blackberries, well-integrated cedar and clove notes, and
the structure to age. Best from 2025–2032. —J.G.
Price: $90
abv: 14.6%

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THE WORLD’S NO. 1
International Trade Fair for
Wines and Spirits

Patz & Hall 2020 Bootlegger’s Hill Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). All polish and elegance, this subtly powerful wine from a cool vineyard site comes on quietly with brooding dark plum
and black cherry aromas. It then deepens on the
palate, adding sour cherry, rhubarb and pine forest nuances. Well-matched, moderate tannins and a

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WINE ENTHUSIAST | 175

BUYINGGUIDE
tang of acidity make for excellent balance. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65

are lifted by almost electric red cherries, sour cherries and cranberries that light up the palate. The
wine is so nervy and fresh despite a full body. —J.G.
Price: $66
abv: 14.5%

Patz & Hall 2020 Gap’s Crown Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine is
irresistible for its freshness and verve. Bright and
vivid red- and black-fruit flavors light up this nicely
balanced and complete wine. Slightly chewy tannins back up the effusive fruit and rhubarb notes
for a big mouthfeel. Best from 2025. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 13.5%

Bailarin 2019 Suacci Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). The deep, complex
fruit flavors of this singular wine are remarkable for
their intensity. It’s a treat to savor the red and black
cherries, tart blueberries and basil notes along with
subtle oak spices that spread across the palate while
sipping this well-balanced, appetizing wine. Best
through 2033. —J.G.
Price: $64
abv: 14.4%

Thumbprint Cellars 2021 Martini Clone Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Warm, rich and
generous, this full-bodied wine made from a heritage
selection of Pinot Noir vines offers well-integrated
oak spices among the complex and vivid cherry pie,
cranberry relish and rhubarb notes. Crispness and
ripeness are in great balance for enjoyment now and
for years to come. Best from 2026–2034. —J.G.
Price: $62
abv: 14.5%

Innumero 2021 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lively, focused and well-delineated,
this medium-bodied wine lifts tangy raspberries
and juicy black cherries with good acidity and a
light touch of tannin. Mint, pine and black tea
nuances add welcome complexity. Pair with sautéed
mushrooms, grilled fish or roast birds. —J.G.
Price: $68
abv: 13.4%

Marchelle 2021 Van Der Kamp Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Complex and
savory herbaceous notes harmonize with tangy red
and black fruits in this lip-smacking and deceptively full-bodied wine. Find bay leaf and green-tea
aromas followed by red currants and sour cherries,
all worth pondering over. Best through 2029. —J.G.
Price: $70
abv: 14.8%

Paradise Ridge 2019 Byck Family Estate
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Enticing
nuances of cherry cola and tamarind in the aroma
lead to vivid red and black cherries, sour cherries
and red zinger tea in this complex, vivid wine. Its
appetizing acidity, medium body and light tannins
afford great balance. Best from 2026. —J.G.
Price: $50
abv: 13.7%

Patz & Hall 2020 Little Boot Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). The charming,
spiced-cherry aromas and warm berry-pie flavors
of this complex, delicious wine are easy to appreciate. Hints of red cherries, rooibos tea, cinnamon
and cloves all contribute to its considerable, velvety
appeal. Best through 2030. —J.G.
Price: $65
abv: 14.5%
Paul Hobbs 2021 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This is a classic Russian River
Pinot, boasting ripe black cherries and black plums,
rather soft acidity, and a warm, soothing texture of
fine-grained tannins. While easy to enjoy now, it
has the balance and concentration for further aging.
Best from 2025–2032. —J.G.
Price: $80
abv: 14.3%

PIEDMONT

Jayson 2021 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Rich and relaxed, this massive, fruitdrenched wine offers deep bass notes of dark plum
and black cherries. It releases wave after wave of
dark fruits and subtle oak spices with each sip.
Pairings like beef bourguignon and Morroccan lamb
seem perfect. —J.G.
Price: $55
abv: 14.8%

Lions Head Collection 2021 Panthera Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). A great balance
between vivid fruit flavors, savory accents and
mouthwatering acidity make this wine attractive
to almost any wine drinker and set it up for infinite food pairings. Light tannins support red cherries, black tea and cranberry notes. Delicious now,
the wine has the structure for aging, too. Best from
2026. —J.G.
Price: $46
abv: 14%

MacRostie 2021 First Flight Nightwing Vineyard Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). Super wellstructured, with lip-smacking acidity and bright,
ripe fruit flavors, this wine is a vibrant, palatecleansing mouthful. Fragrant cinnamon and cloves

176 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

BAROLO

Borgogno 2019 Cannubi (Barolo). From
the first sniff, the significance of this wine
is evident. Dark cherry, rosebud, clove and savory
herbs create an enveloping aroma. The polished and
pure palate offers generosity, yet yearns for further
development. Presently, flavors of mixed wild berries, licorice, tobacco and chalk notes shine on the
palate. Drink 2025–2050. Ethica Wines. Cellar
Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $190

Luigi Baudana 2019 Cerretta (Barolo). Dark
cherry aromas mingle with hints of coffee,
dried herbs and flowers. The wine exhibits a super
pretty character with incredibly fine-grained tannins, almost as if it were a study in the art of crafting wine. A stunning effort that will continue to give
for years to come. Drink 2026–2050+. Vajra USA.
Cellar Selection. —J.P.
Price: $100
abv: 14%

Sandrone 2017 Vite Talin (Barolo). Loads
of gorgeous red and black fruits, sweet and
savory spices and dried flowers make this wine
highly aromatic and sumptuous. The palate is dense
with spiced cherries, plums and crushed raspberries dusted with clove, cinnamon and vanilla. Firm
tannins are present that give the wine a serious edge
finishing with a deep-rooted earthiness and acidity.
A significant wine. Drink 2028–2045. Vintus LLC.
Cellar Selection. —J.P.
Price: $675
abv: 14.5%

Marcarini 2019 La Serra (Barolo). The
moment the cork is pulled, aromas spill out
this beautifully crafted Barolo. Notes of wild cherry
and macerated raspberry steal the show on the nose
but as the wine develops, savory herb and spiced
tea notes emerge. The wine dances on the palate
with vivid red fruit notes that meld with herbal and
woodsy notes finishing with elegant, yet firm tannins and crunch acidity. Built for the cellar. Drink
2026–2045. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—J.P.
Price: $84
abv: 14%

Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2019 Monvigliero
(Barolo). Framboise and cherry compote
aromas lead, accompanied by sage and hints of new
leather. The palate is lush yet structured, with the
fruit held in place by the fine, yet firm, tannins.
This solid wine will benefit from some time. Drink
2025–2050. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $144

Borgogno 2019 Fossati (Barolo). The wellcrafted wine reveals a gradual opening of
aromas of dark cherry, wild herbs, dried rose, mint
and orange zest. The generous palate delights with
ample mixed berry fruit, harmonized by notes of
licorice, savory elements and oolong tea. Supple
tannins and vibrant acidity captivate the palate on
the finish. Drink 2025–2045. Ethica Wines. Cellar
Selection. —J.P.
Price: $140
abv: 14.5%

Elvio Cogno 2019 Ravera (Barolo). Crushed
raspberries and sour cherries lift from the
glass, with hints of rosebud, thyme and leather. The
elegant palate showcases proper tannin management with supple tannin, and vibrant acidity creating an elegant profile. The palate continues with
notes of red nectarine, macerated raspberries and
crushed stones that are all additive as the wine will
continue to develop with time in the cellar. Drink
2025–2045. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—J.P.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50

Giulia Negri 2019 Marassio (Barolo). From
the highest part of the Serradeneri cru,
this Barolo shows the grace of location and aspect
with wafting aromas of wild strawberries, mint,
sweet spice and warmed earth. Mouthwatering and
energetic, the wine lifts on the palate with tart red
berries, savory herbs and fine tannins. Drink 2026–
2046. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
Price: $50
abv: 14.4%

Luigi Baudana 2019 Baudana (Barolo). Vivid
aromas of cherry stand out as the dominant
fruit note, harmonizing with abundant mineral and
mixed spice characteristics. The palate presents a
firm yet giving structure. The chiseled palate offers
notes of wildflowers, savory herbs and spices finishing with a persistent minerality. Drink 2026–2046.
Vajra USA. Cellar Selection. —J.P.
abv: 14%
Price: $100

TUSCANY
RED WINES

Masseto 2020 (Toscana). A hedge maze of
aromas greets the nose, from blackberries
and black cherries to crushed stones and crumpled petals, before a gentle addition of vanilla and
toasted coconut. Mixed berries with vanilla and
cardamom soak the palate, followed by freshly tilled
dirt and flinty stone notes, and finally an astringent,
brooding spiciness on the back. Tannins are tightly
stitched together across the palate like a tapestry,
with acrobatic acid emphasizing a salt and pepper
finish. A wine that speaks volumes without shouting. Vintus LLC. —D.C.
Price: $860
abv: 15%

Le Macchiole 2020 Messorio (Toscana). A
nose like a private library with old books on
the shelves, dried lavender and violets on the desk,
and sunbeams and damp air from outside streaming
through the drapes, held at bay by a smoky warmth
from the hearth. The palate delivers a riot of berries
and chocolate and spices, with a salty astringency
at the back. Tannins and acid that start quiet, and
then rise up and roar. Vintus LLC. —D.C.
Price: $350
abv: 14.5%

Argiano 2020 Solengo (Toscana). The nose
is dark yet polished, like a new leather
jacket, with aromas of blackberry, black olive, wet
stone, dirt and playful violets. The palate mixes a
more pronounced, sweeter streak of berries with an
enduring metallic earthiness, before a chili chocolate finish. Powerful tannins and acid ensure ageworthiness. Maze Row Wine Merchant. —D.C.
Price: $90
abv: 14.5%

La Massa 2020 La Massa (Toscana). The
nose is an astringent blend of dried cherries, cranberries, bricks, soil and hibiscus, with a
mix of fresh wild herbs providing some warmth. The
WINE ENTHUSIAST | 177

BUYINGGUIDE
sanguine fruitiness and earthy notes continue onto
the palate, but polished tannins and lithe acid create a round texture. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —D.C.
Price: $75
abv: 14%

Mazzei 2020 Siepi (Toscana). The nose balances dense, fiery aromas of grilled meat,
pepper and gunpowder with lighter, friendlier
notes of cherries and wild berries. The berries take
a leading role on the palate, but the spicy smokiness lingers as an assertive undertone, leading into
a hot finish. Tannins have grit without being rustic,
emphasizing a saliva-inducing savoriness throughout. Demeine Estates. —D.C.
Price: $139
abv: 14.5%

Tenuta di Trinoro 2020 Palazzi (Toscana). A
primarily sanguine and umami nose draws
balance from sweet, slightly astringent notes of
plum, blueberry and boysenberry. The berries flourish on the palate, but acid brings out a latent mix of
pepper and spices to preserve balance, while silky,
opaque tannins provide framing. T. Edward Wines
Ltd. —D.C.
Price: $325
abv: 15%

Tua Rita 2020 Giusto Di Notri (Toscana).
The nose offers seemingly infinite layers,
first showing tiny wild blueberries and mulberries, then violets and peonies, then a soft, soothing
earth element comes in, with a final tangy, peppery

aroma. On the palate, sweeter, darker berries spar
with continued astringent notes, while silky tannins blanket everything with the distinctive mouthfeel of Tua Rita. Winebow Imports. —D.C.
Price: $100
abv: 15.5%

Castello di Meleto 2019 Parabuio (Toscana).
On the nose, raspberries and tart plum skin
provide the fruit, while graphite, tea leaves and soy
sauce bring savory balance. The raspberries and
plums become richer on the palate, while salt and
pepper undertones crackle until a minty finish that
radiates off highly polished tannins. Golden Ram
Imports. —D.C.
Price: $200
abv: 14.5%

Fattoria Le Pupille 2020 Saffredi (Toscana).
A rich, juicy nose presents handfuls of cherries and mulberries, along with slices of passion
fruit, but a fresh savoriness keeps the sweetness in
check. On the palate, dark chocolate brings depth,
while tannins and acid attack in tandem. Bold and
self-assured—a precise wine. Ethica Wines. —D.C.
Price: $100
abv: 15%

La Massa 2018 Grigio Primo (Toscana). The
nose is a summer barbecue with clouds of
smoky meat mingling with dark, plush berries and
fruit. Dessert arrives on the palate, with a slice of
berry tart, but peppery heat and searing tannins

provide balance through a bitter, sophisticated, lingering finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —D.C.
Price: $75
abv: 14.5%

Mazzei 2020 Concerto Di Fonterutoli (Toscana). The nose balances the peppery, sanguine smokiness of grilled meat with a succulent
swirl of black cherries and chocolate. On the palate, that balance continues, and is spotlighted by a
strong undertow of spice and salt, while polished
tannins and integrated acid create cohesion. Demeine Estates. —D.C.
Price: $119
abv: 14%

Podere Sapaio 2019 (Toscana). A nose that’s
marvelously chameleon-like, offering first
cherries and berries with a sweet but serious vanilla
undertone, then tangy, sanguine soil and crushed
rocks, then bitter roots and spices. The palate is
equally layered, then electrified with heat and acid
through a lingering finish. Soilair Selection. —D.C.
Price: $94
abv: 14.5%

Tenuta Sette Ponti 2020 Merlot (Toscana).
An unctuous, umami blend of hot tar, balsamic vinegar and wild herbs on the nose, with a
crack of black pepper before blackberries flood in.
More pepper and crushed stones on the palate insist
on the savory and austere elements right now, but
the fruit promises to mature and offer a truly luxurious experience with time. Kobrand. —D.C.
Price: $155
abv: 15%

Urlari 2019 L’Urlo (Toscana). The nose leads
with cherries, strawberries and an earthy,
herbal woodsiness, before chocolate and mushrooms suddenly arrive. The cherries and earthiness
continue onto the palate, above a peppery, mineral
undertone that endures until breaking against a
rich, chocolaty finish. Vine Connections. —D.C.
Price: $70
abv: 14.5%

BOLGHERI

Ornellaia 2021 Le Serre Nuove Dell’ Ornellaia
(Bolgheri). On the nose, hot, meaty, umami
aromas hold court, but dark fruit and a sanguine,
tangy metallic component prevent those notes of
smoke, pepper and tar from becoming overpowering. Undertones of vanilla and chocolate lift the
fruit on the palate, but unyielding tannins and
energetic acid ensure the spicy earthiness endures.
Vintus LLC. —D.C.
Price: $90
abv: 14.5%

Submit wines for review
consideration at:
wineenthusiast.com/submit-for-rating.

178 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

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Spirits

SINGLE MINDED
Within limits, single malt Scotch finds room to innovate.

The Glenlivet 25 Years Old (Scotland; Pernod
Ricard USA, New York, NY). Finished in PX
sherry and Cognac casks, this single malt has a deep
amber hue and toffee and red fruit aromas. The palate
opens with dried cherry and oak. A splash of water
unlocks chestnut, lemon cream and vanilla, teased by
fleeting hints of peach, Muscat grape and violets. A
puff of campfire smoke gathers on the exhale, along
with drying hints of leather and black pepper.
abv: 43%
Price: $650

hen it comes to luxury bottles, single
malt Scotch—that is, whisky made in

mellow highland Scotch, while a peaty Islay finished in an ex-Tequila barrel casts a sidelong

Scotland by a single distillery, using

glance at smoky mezcal.

only malted barley, yeast and water—
is often top of the list.
While some regard old, rare or expensive

Looking ahead, expect to see more of these
creative cask finishes, says Colin Gordon, distillery manager for Scotch-maker Ardbeg.

single malts as status symbols, know that
doesn’t always have to be the

“We’re tightly regulated by the Scotch Whisky
Association,” he explains,

case. Many experts suggest that
Scotch is best between 12 to
25 years old. After that, many
become overly woody and flavor compounds tend to fade.
(That said, some older bottles
hold up better than others.) And
some single malts offer excellent
value. In fact, we’ve designated

Jura 18 Years Old (Scotland; Spirit of Gallo,
Healdsburg, CA). This single malt was finished in Bordeaux casks, yielding an amber hue and
rich toffee and oak aromas. The big, bold palate suggests caramel, sticky toffee pudding, dried dates and
roasted nuts, finishing long with hints of allspice
and peat smoke. A splash of water brings out milkchocolate tones. Consider as a dessert pairing.
abv: 44%
Price: $100

Lismore Aged 18 Years (Scotland; Sans
Wine & Spirits, Irvine, CA). Fresh apple
and vanilla-bean aromas entice. The bold palate
unfurls a light layer of peat smoke wrapped around
a caramel core tinged with butterscotch, toffee and
roasted nuts. Cinnamon and clove warm the finish,
accompanied by a subtle violet exhale.
abv: 43%
Price: $70

180 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Some single malts
offer excellent
value ... We’ve
designated 16 bottles priced $60 or
under as Best Buys.

meaning that strict limits are
imposed on how single malts
can be manipulated. As stated
above, Scotch contains only
malted barley, yeast and water.
No additives, flavorings or
other grains.
But that leaves plenty of
room for innovation in cask

16 bottles priced $60 or under
as Best Buys.
Unusual cask finishes continue to yield single malts worth seeking out. While Scotch pro-

styles and barrel-wood types.
Also, keep an eye out for experiments involving fermentation, yeast types and adjustments
to that malted barley, such as roasted grain,

ducers have long rested whisky in barrels that
previously held sherry or bourbon, the latest crop pushes further. For example, Pineau
des Charentes, a fortified wine from France’s
Cognac region, adds delicate fruity tones to a

all which stay within SWA guardrails. This
all leads to exciting and, yes, indulgent new
whiskies ahead. “The future for single malt is
bright,” Gordon concludes. We agree.
—Kara Newman

The Dalmore 14 Years Old (Scotland; E&J
Gallo Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). Almond and
vanilla aromas entwine with a floral whiff. The palate opens with concentrated caramel and finishes
buttery and rich, with hints of dried fig, cinnamon
and clove. Finished in PX sherry casks.
abv: 43.8%
Price: $90

The Dalmore 21 Years Old (Scotland; E&J Gallo
Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). The 2023 edition of
this single malt is finished in casks that previously
held 30-year-old oloroso sherry. Toasted almond and
vanilla lead the nose, while the first sips show palatecoating butterscotch plus hints of hops, toasted grain
and vanilla. A splash of water draws out a distinct
peanut tone, creating a peanut-butter-cookie effect.
Ginger and cinnamon frame the long exit.
abv: 43.8%
Price: $800

Talisker 30 Year Old (Scotland; Diageo, New
York, NY). Expect a burnished gold hue and
ripe pear and peat-smoke aromas. The palate opens
with almond and fruit, swiftly followed by lots of
peat smoke and alcohol heat, plus an intense peppery
tingle on the tip of the tongue. Add plenty of water to
temper this cask-strength bottling.
abv: 49.6%
Price: $1,100/700ml

The Dalmore 15 Years Old (Scotland; E&J
Gallo Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). Red-fruit and
allspice aromas lead into a big, punchy palate. Each
sip opens rich, with smoked cherry, vanilla bean,
dried fig and chocolate-covered caramels. It finishes
dry, with cigar wrapper, leather and a hint of clove.
To be clear, the effect is dry but never austere: think
comfy leather chairs and indulgent cigars. Finished
in a variety of sherry casks.
abv: 40%
Price: $140

The Dalmore 18 Years Old (Scotland; E&J Gallo
Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). Look for an amber
hue and rich caramel aroma. The palate echoes big,
rich caramel tones, followed by dusty cocoa powder
and hints of black licorice and clove. The long, lipsmacking finish offers oak, cocoa and leather. 2023
edition. Aged in ex-bourbon and oloroso sherry casks.
abv: 43%
Price: $290

The Dalmore 25 Years Old (Scotland; E&J
Gallo Spirits, Healdsburg, CA). Maturation
in emptied sherry and bourbon casks has yielded a
single malt with a deep amber hue plus rich toffee
and allspice aromas. The palate opens with toasted
oak, dried cherry, caramel and clove, leading into a
long, spiced finish and a final orange peel exhale.
abv: 42%
Price: $1,600

Tullibardine 500 Sherry Cask Finish (Scotland; Prestige Beverage Group, Mendota
Heights, MN). This is a non-age-statement single
malt finished in oloroso and PX sherry casks. The
palate unfurls a modest amount of smoke around a
core of baked pear, vanilla and candied ginger, leading into a long, nuanced finish perfumed with white
flowers and sandalwood incense. Best Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $400

Ardbeg Anthology: The Harpy’s Tale (Scotland; Moet-Hennessy, New York, NY). The latest release in the Anthology series is a 13-year-old
Islay single malt fully matured in a combination of
ex-bourbon and Sauternes casks. The result is a burnished gold hue and aromas of peat smoke and iodine
that mingle with almond. The palate opens with
chewy almond-nougat notes, plus toothsome vanilla
bean. What starts as a modest amount of peat smoke
turns to billowing embers with repeated sips.
abv: 46%
Price: $165

Ardbeg Traigh Bhan Batch #5 (Scotland;
Moet-Hennessy, New York, NY). This is the
fifth release of the Ardbeg line, named for the “singing sands” near Port Ellen. Look for a bright marigold hue and assertive peaty aroma, with a bakedpear undertone. The palate echoes that smoke
underpinned by fruit, translating as smoked pear
and grilled pineapple.
abv: 46.2%
Price: $350

Lismore Aged 15 Years (Scotland; Sans Wine
& Spirits, Irvine, CA). Juicy red apple and
maple aromas lead the nose. The brisk palate opens
with light smoke, vanilla and an almost effervescent
feeling on the tip of the tongue. Hints of dried apricot and roasted nuts linger into the smoky fade, finishing with ginger crackle. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $57
WINE ENTHUSIAST | 181

BUYINGGUIDE

Aberlour 18 Years Old (Scotland; Pernod
Ricard USA, New York, NY). A dark and delicious single malt. Cocoa and caramel on nose and
palate lead into a plush midpalate with succulent
hints of red fruit, toffee, dried fig and hazelnut.
Leather, walnut and dark chocolate dry the finish,
with a final clove exhale.
abv: 43%
Price: $125

Jura Seven Wood (Scotland; Spirit of Gallo,
Hayward, CA). This non-age-statement single
malt comprises a blend of whiskies aged in barrels
made with seven French and American oak varieties. The end result is succulent dried date, dried
apricot and almond aromas. Treading more lightly,
the palate shows lemon meringue encircled by cigar
and peat smoke, finishing with a curl of lemon peel
on the ginger-spiked finish. Best Buy.
abv: 42%
Price: $60

Isle of Skye 30 Year Old (Scotland; Silver Lake
Imports, Miami, FL). Complex and enjoyable,
this is introduced by a deep topaz hue and rich toffee and caramel aromas. The palate echoes the toffee note, though it seems less rich, dried with brisk
espresso, leather and oak. It finishes with walnutty
dryness and a whisper of cocoa powder. The final
exhale mixes orange peel, cardamom and cinnamon
bark.
abv: 40%
Price: $320

Isle of Skye 21 Years Old (Scotland; Silver
Lake Imports, Miami, FL). Rich maple and
toasted almond take the lead on this single malt,
with hints of baked pear. Adding water lightens flavors to mouthwatering roasted peanut and salted
caramel, finishing with cardamom and clove.
abv: 40%
Price: $115

Jura 12 Years Old (Scotland; Spirit of Gallo,
Healdsburg, CA). Mildly smoky aromas
entwine with vanilla. The bold palate opens with
cigar wrapper, leather and maple, while a splash of
water releases tinges of burnt orange peel, espresso
and unsweetened chocolate. Nuanced oak and
smoke wind into the mouthwatering, puckery finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $50

Aberlour 16 Years Old (Scotland; Pernod
Ricard USA, New York, NY). Notably silky and
spiced, this single malt has a bright copper-penny
appearance and rich caramel and baked-apple aromas. Each sip opens with sweet mesquite smoke,
followed by toasted oak, almond and dried date.
Torched cinnamon stick lends a big, bold finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $85

Lismore Single Malt Scotch (Scotland; Sans
Wine & Spirits, Irvine, CA). This non-agestatement whisky opens with a baked apple scent
plus a whiff of campfire smoke. The notably silky,
slick palate offers toasted almond and toasted coconut, leading into baked apple midpalate. White
pepper and ginger heat linger on the tingly, slightly
numbing finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20

182 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023

Glenmorangie The Cadboll Estate 15 Years
Old (Scotland; Moet Hennessy USA, New
York, NY). It would be simplistic to say this single
malt Scotch is a dead ringer for a bowl of Honey
Nut Cheerios. So we’ll deconstruct: Dried apricot
and almond aromas lead into a lively palate showing
honey and toasted grain, along with hints of caramelized pineapple and toasted coconut. A splash
of water draws out a puff of smoke into the long,
rounded finish. Made with barley grown on Glenmorangie’s Cadboll Estate, and zero Cheerios. Third
batch of limited-edition Cadboll Estate series. 2023
Edition
abv: 43%
Price: $100

Octomore 14.1 (Scotland; Remy Cointreau,
New York, NY). In this super-peated single
malt from the iconic Bruichladdich distillery, look
for a golden hue and mild vanilla and spearmint aromas. The palate opens with mouthwatering butterscotch and menthol, finishing long with a smoked
maple-sugar effect, which ever so slowly tapers off.
abv: 59.6%
Price: $220

Octomore 14.2 (Scotland; Remy Cointreau,
New York, NY). This complex and memorable Islay single malt has an amber hue and a roasted
grain aroma plus a bit of peat smoke. The velvety
palate offers an instant hit of tobacco and peat
smoke, finessed with maple and vanilla. A splash of
olive brine at the end makes the mouth water.
abv: 57.7%
Price: $260

Old Pulteney Pineau des Charentes wine cask
matured (Scotland; Hotaling & Co., San Francisco, CA). This is a non-age-statement single malt
aged in casks that previously held Pineau des Charentes, a fortified wine from France’s Cognac region.
The result is a complex, pleasing whisky layered
with delicate peach, apple and marzipan tones, finishing with a floral hint and a waft of smoke. Part of
the limited-edition Coastal Series.
abv: 46%
Price: $80

Aberlour A’bunadh (Scotland; Pernod Ricard
USA, New York, NY). Matured in emptied
oloroso sherry casks and bottled at cask strength,
this non-age-statement single malt has a copperpenny hue and mellow vanilla and caramel aromas.
The palate opens mildly sweet, suggesting cinnamon bun, pecan pie, golden raisin and creamy caramel, finishing long with sweet spices and a floral
hint. Consider for a dessert pairing.
abv: 60%
Price: $90

Port Charlotte PMC:01 (Scotland; Remy
Cointreau, New York, NY). The sixth release
in the Cask Exploration series from Bruichladdich is
a 2013 vintage finished in Pomerol wine casks. Look
for a topaz hue and mild cocoa aroma, plus a hint
of ginger root. The buttery palate echoes that cocoa
note, layering it with red fruit, peat smoke and
black-pepper tingle. The pleasingly robust, smoky
exhale reminds this is an Islay single malt, and by
design, one of the peatiest ones on the shelf.
abv: 54.5%
Price: $150
The Glenlivet 21 (Scotland; Pernod Ricard
USA, New York, NY). This single malt is
finished in a complex mix of emptied barrels: oloroso sherry, Cognac and port. Each contributes a
little something. The floral lilt on the toffee-forward
aroma is reminiscent of Cognac, while the pronounced dried-cherry flavor is clearly the result
of port’s influence. Hints of hops and roasted nuts
can be traced to the sherry cask. Part of the Sample
Room Collection.
abv: 43%
Price: $320

BUYINGGUIDE

ALL-SEASON STOUTS
Winter isn’t the only time for stouts and porters.
any people have a seasonal mindset
about stouts and porters. They believe

the beers including vanilla, fruits and nuts, as
well as real java and cocoa.

that because the beers have a deep color

Those dessert brews are often decadent

and rich disposition, they are ideally
consumed during the colder months. Undeniably, the dark brews land differently on the palate

and full-bodied, with tongue-coating viscosity.
They often show best in small pours or sharing
with friends. Some brewers have gotten seri-

when the mercury is low, acting like a taste-bud
comfort blanket. However, the

ous about sourcing different kinds of chocolate
and vanilla beans from specific

truth is that stouts and porters
are enjoyable any time of year.
The most famous stout in
the world is brewed by Diageo’s
Guinness. This dry Irish stout
served in nitro is as much fun to
look at as it is to drink. Thanks
to St. Patrick’s Day, the beer is
most popular in late winter and

Adventurous
newcomers to the
ale are often
surprised at its
light body and easy
drinkability.

early spring. Adventurous newcomers to the ale are often surprised at its light body and easy drinkability.
It’s a good reminder that most stouts and
porters are of moderate weight and abv. Imperial versions, of course, will pack more of a
punch, but the everyday dark ales are refreshing, flavorful and ideal for food pairings.
The use of dark malt means that many offer
flavors of coffee, chocolate and even dark toast.
Brewers use that canvas to add other flavors to

Edmund’s Oast Leather Jacket (porter;
Edmund’s Oast; SC). With a soft and spicy
cola-like note and a slightly roasted disposition,
this snazzy porter has just a touch of alcohol heat.
Perfect for outdoor drinking in the swing seasons.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $13/16oz 4-pack

Von Ebert A Night in Tallin (Baltic porter; Von
Ebert Brewing, OR). This porter is just the
right amount of hearty and strong, without being
overpowering. Layers of dark chocolate, roasted
espresso and spicy hop combine with an overall
nuttiness. Complex but understated, this is one to
sip and let the mind wander.
abv: 7.2%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

Pure Hazelsaurus Rex (stout; Pure Project,
CA). Rich aromas of toasted hazelnuts burst
forth from the glass. This full-bodied, almost slick
stout coats the tongue, allowing the nuttiness to

sources to provide a sense of
place in each sip and also to differentiate their beers from others on the market.
Stouts and porters deserve
attention when it comes to
food pairings. Lighter versions
make ideal partners for grilled
meats like hamburgers, and tra-

ditional pub foods like fish and
chips. The easy-drinking nature
and roast characteristics with a touch of sweetness help them complement fatty or heavier
foods. They also make great matches with many
desserts, from cheesecake to ice cream.
Winter is nice for these dark, intriguing
beers, but reaching for them any time of year is
a smart decision.
–John Holl

build on both sweetness and earthiness. An excellent use of filberts in a standout of a beer.
abv: 12%
Price: $18/500ml

Russian River Porter (porter; Russian River
Brewing, CA). This everyday drinking porter
helps you look forward to every day. A slight vanilla
character mixes well with a subtle dark-roast maltiness, followed by just a splash of spicy and herbal
pine hops. A mix of Old World sensibility with deft
hop usage. Drink with your next burger.
abv: 5.75%
Price: $20/16oz 4-pack

Port City Porter (porter; Port City, VA).
Sometimes you just want a porter. A nofrills, easy-drinking, “gonna have three at the pub
before heading home” porter. With a little chocolate and coffee roast, a kiss of hops and a medium

body that doesn’t weigh down the palate. This is
that beer.
abv: 7.2%
Price: $13/12oz 6-pack

Von Ebert Waning Echoes (stout; Von Ebert
Brewing, OR). This aggressively hopped
American stout offers big, pleasing bitter malts.
Slightly boozy and full bodied, the ale has a foamy
tan head that lasts and laces the glass as it empties.
Pair with a hearty steak sandwich.
abv: 6.7%
Price: $17/16oz 4-pack

Exhibit ‘A’ Briefcase Porter (porter; Exhibit
‘A’ Brewing, MA). Robust with a chalky darkmalt accent, this brings on and builds upon longroasted coffee flavors and a touch of sweetness with
each sip. A hint of grassy, spicy hops on the finish
rounds out the experience.
abv: 5.4%
Price: $14/16oz 4-pack

Cellar West Loon Shadow (porter; Cellar West, CO). Ruddy brown with a thick
mocha-colored head, this is easy drinking, with
softly roasted malt attributes that bring out a
bready, light espresso vibe. There’s a slight hop kick
on the finish, with a touch of alcohol heat.
abv: 8%
Price: $16/16oz 4-pack

Port City Colossal Two (smoked porter; Port
City Brewing, VA). This strong, smoky porter
offers aromas of bacon and wood char mixed with
faint chocolate and coffee notes that add a little
sweetness and depth. Pair with roasted lamb.
abv: 9%
Price: $15/12oz 4-pack

Fogtown Night Nurse (Imperial stout; Fogtown Brewing, ME). Dark, rich and full-bodied, this strong stout has layers of sweet, preserved
stone fruit and a jamminess intermingled with a
faint fudge. A late evening beer, it’s best served in a
dimpled mug, paired with an artisanal blue cheese.
abv: 7.1%
Price: $15/16oz 4-pack

Samuel Smuth Organic Chocolate Stout
(stout; Samuel Smith, Merchant du Vin, WA).
For drinkers with a sweet tooth, this English import
does not disappoint. Big aromas of fudgy chocolate
milk emerge from the glass and follow through on the
palate, with sugary corner store candy bar flavors.
abv: 5%
Price: $11/14.9oz

Westfax Hometown Coffee Stout (stout; Westfax Brewing, CO). A collaboration with Sweet
Bloom coffee roasters, this java-forward ale feels like
that first morning cup that sets everything off in the
right direction. A stout for serious coffee lovers.
abv: 7%
Price: $16/16oz 4 pack

Crux Stout (stout; Crux Fermentation Project,
OR). A full-bodied, roasty stout with a thin
mocha head, this delivers a good amount of light coffee and chocolate midpalate through the finish. A pub
beer, it’s made for multiple rounds over good conversation with friends.
Price: $16/16oz 4-pack
abv: 7.7%

WINE ENTHUSIAST | 183

MARK OF ART

For food and wine writer Henna Bakshi,
commemorating a milestone became a transgressive act.

When

Education Trust) Level 3 exam. The “beast,”
people called it. “One of the hardest exams you’ll
take,” a sommelier told me. A tattoo sounded like
a fitting reward.
In my mind, the design was of an amphora, the size
of an emoji, something tiny and discreet. An amphora
because it is the first symbol of wine ever seen in
language. I’m a writer, so an homage to language and
wine made sense. I also love ancient world wines
and the stories they carry, so the amphora, a clay
vessel used to make and age wine, was a great idea.
Moreover, I could finally answer with a “Yes! Look!”
when I introduced myself.
The farmers market my husband and I frequent
in Atlanta has a tattoo parlor right outside. It’s a
quaint neighborhood with coffee shops, a brewery
and a community garden with goats on the grounds.
Every time we pass the parlor, we joke that it would
be where I got my first tattoo. Two days after I
passed my exam, with no intention of getting
tattooed that day, we burst through the doors with
fresh tomatoes and figs in our bags, asking if an artist
could squeeze me in.
I got the tattoo of the amphora on my inner right
ankle. It’s larger than an emoji—more about the size
of a cork. It’s the prettiest little thing, and oddly
enough, makes me feel whole. It’s my risk,
my badass moment—and I think Lil’ Tat
would be proud.

GETTY IMAGES

I introduce myself,
I always say, “I’m
Henna, like the
tattoo.” I don’t skip a beat on the latter bit because I
can’t stand being called Hannah. The next question,
as is the rule of small talk, is invariably, “Do you
have any?”
The idea of getting a tattoo always felt like you
were doing something bad—something you needed
to hide from your parents or cover up at work. Wine,
for the longest time, had the same connotation in the
Indian culture I grew up in, especially for women.
Aunties didn’t drink.
My parents moved our family from India to the
U.S. when I was 15. They were rebels, in a way—
refusing the cards they were dealt and creating
a new identity in a country unknown was pretty
badass. The best way we knew how to belong was
through food. My mother would grate ginger and
toast cumin, often handing me the spice box, urging,
“Smell.” It’s no wonder I ended up a food writer,
though I had a haunting feeling that I needed to
find my own risk, my own badass moment. I found
it in wine.
In high school, I told people my nickname was
Lil’ Tat. I insisted people call me that because I was
named after a tattoo, though I didn’t have any. It took
me years to nail down an idea. I promised myself I’d
finally get one if I passed my WSET (Wine and Spirit

I needed to find
my own risk,
my own badass moment. I
found it in wine.

184 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2023