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ISBN: 0025-3049

Year: 2023

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MISSION TO MERCURY Only available in selected Swatch Stores
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S HOT ON LOC ATION I N TR I ES TE, I TA LY. L U X E L E AT H E R T R AV E L G O O D S F O R T H E E V E R Y D AY WA N D E R E R W A N D E R E R S T R AV E L C O . C O M
S H OT O N LO C AT I O N I N M E R A N O , I TA LY.
Fendi top, fendi.com; Iordanes Spyridon Gogos x Akira Isogawa skirt, iordanesspyridon gogos.com. ON THE COVER Chloé wears Romance Was Born x Paul Yore gown, romancewasborn.com; Yousef Akbar stocking shoes, yousefakbar.com. Photography by Simon Eeles/ Art Box Black. Fashion direction by Naomi Smith. Styled by Jordan Boorman. Hair by Diane Gorgievski/The Artist Group. Makeup by Linda Jefferyes/The Artist Group. Production by Robyn Fay-Perkins.
FA S H I O N 146 A LL N I G HT L O N G Glimmering makeup looks designed to last long past midnight. 29 TRENDING NOW Your guide to soft dressing 36 THE GET Watches worthy of your wrist 37 THE PIECE Tiffany and Co.’s ode to the ocean 38 DESIGNER DOSSIER Crafting Cartier’s Grain de Café 40 THE BUY The making of a Celine icon 42 SPOTLIGHT ON Omega fuses form and function 44 CL A SS AC TION Quiet luxury jewellery staples 108 FRONT & CENTRE Georgina Burke showcases the season’s latest collections 116 G A R D E N PA R T Y Chanel’s autumn/winter collection 126 N E W N O S TA LG I A A lesson in layering with Gucci 134 101 I D E A S Make a statement 140 SHOPPING The colour special B E AU T Y 146 INTO THE NIGHT Evening-inspired makeup looks 154 MY SALON SUCCESS We pick the brains of the beauty industry’s top names 158 H A I R R E PA I R E R S Hair heroes to the rescue 160 HOT TO OLS The best styling devices in town 161 B E AU T Y TA L K With Bella Hadid 162 SPOTLIGHT ON Dior Prestige’s Le Nectar Premier 164 THE EDIT Beauty news 166 THE FOUNDER Terry de Gunzburg’s cult faves PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON EELES; KELLY GEDDES; EVE WILSON. LIFESTYLE 172 INTERIORS At home with Lucy Fenton 176 T R AV E L The buzziest new beach clubs 180 THE EDIT Lifestyle news 172 S T Y LE S E T Take an interiors note out of Lucy Fenton’s little black book. 176 I N TH E C LU B Dip your toes into the best of barefoot luxury.

Astonishing orange
Nicky Briger EDITOR Deputy editor MELISSA GAUDRON ART & PHOTOS Creative director JUANITA FIELD Art director LESLEY JHOTY Designer NATASHA BARISA Photo director ROBYN FAY-PERKINS FASHION Fashion director NAOMI SMITH Junior fashion editor JORDAN BOORMAN Market editor EMILY GITTANY BEAUTY Beauty director SALLY HUNWICK FEATURES Features editor BREE PLAYER Fashion features and lifestyle editor SAMANTHA STEWART Features writer HARRIET SIM Copy director DANIEL MOORE Senior copy editor HILARY BOARD Editorial coordinator/junior writer FRANCESCA HARTLEY DIGITAL Digital managing editor ALEXANDRA BRUCE-SMITH Senior writers CASSANDRA GREEN, REBECCA MITCHELL Writers KIRSTY THATCHER, TENEAL ZUVELA Shopping editor MADDISON HOCKEY ADVERTISING National brand manager MELANIE SAVVIDIS Sales director NSW, Vic, SA, WA KAREN HOLMES Head of Qld sales JUDY TAYLOR Implementation executive SERENA COX CHIC BA I T MARKETING Marketing director LOUISE CANKETT Senior marketing manager JESS TAYLOR Research director NATALIE BETTINI Junior subscriptions campaign manager ANJALI ISRANI Some styles are forever, and Louis Vuitton’s newest version of the ladylike slingback, the Shake, is pure class. ARE MEDIA Chief executive officer JANE HUXLEY D irector of content and commercial AGNIESZKA HATTON Sales director ANDREW COOK Finance business manager MELISSA TANUDJAJA Printed by IVE, 81 Derby St, Silverwater, NSW 2128. Distributed nationally by Are Direct, 31 Heathcote Road, Moorebank, NSW 2170. Published 12 times a year. Trademark “marie claire” owned and registered in Australia and New Zealand by Marie Claire Album, a French Société that has its registered office in Paris, France. Published under agreement by Are Media Pty Limited, ABN 18 053 273 546, 54 Park Street, Sydney. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without prior written permission. No responsibility taken for unsolicited material. Use of trademark is strictly prohibited. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEVAK BABAKHANI. STYLING BY JORDAN BOORMAN. Louis Vuitton shoes, $1840, au.louisvuitton.com. MARIE CLAIRE INTERNATIONAL Executive director JEAN DE BOISDEFFRE International deputy & finance director FÉLIX DROISSART International brand director NICIA RODWELL Chief content officer GALIA LOUPAN Chief digital officer DAVID JULLIEN International fashion & beauty chief editor FLORENCE DELADRIÈRE Senior international brand manager CÉLINE HANANEL International editorial coordinator MARIE BAZIN
ROMA
ED ITOR’ S LE TT E R FAR LEFT Our cover star, actor Chloé Hayden, talks candidly in our interview, from page 66. LEFT The marie claire team with Chloé (third from the right) at the cover shoot. NICKY LOVES I f you’ve ever had to host or speak at an audiencepacked event, you’ll know it’s a tough gig. There’s pressure to be entertaining, engaging, concise, composed – oh, and not dissolve into a teary mess in front of hundreds of people. I once nearly did just that, and I blame this month’s cover star, Chloé Hayden. I’d just handed the 26-year-old Heartbreak High actor the Rising Star award at our Women of the Year event, and she decided to give an impromptu, impassioned speech about the pain and pitfalls of growing up with autism and ADHD. Chloé spoke of the relentless bullying she endured as a kid (she attended 10 schools in eight years), and how she’d sit by her bedroom window at night, praying that Peter Pan and Tinkerbell would spirit her away because “I didn’t feel like I belonged on this planet”. Chloé felt ostracised and alone until she eventually found the courage to speak about her experiences online under the pseudonym Princess Aspien, and soon amassed an army of fans across the globe. Her words moved me: I have close family members and friends on the spectrum and they’ve all relayed similar heartbreaking stories, which is why autistic people are four times more likely to suffer from depression, and six times more likely to attempt suicide. Thankfully, people like Chloé are changing the way we view autism, not just via her lovable character Quinni on Heartbreak High, but through her empowering book Different, Not Less, her powerful podcast series Boldly Me, and the many speeches she delivers regularly to spread her message. She also uses her social media channels (totalling one million followers) to smash stereotypes, challenge conventions, call out bad behaviour and support “my community”. In our interview, Chloé says life would’ve been completely different had a character like Quinni been in the media when she was growing up. Pop culture is hugely influential, but it needs someone like Chloé to supercharge that power and make it her own. Turn to page 66 for Chloé’s raw, revealing and joyful story, as well as her spectacular shoot featuring some of spring’s brightest looks. Speaking of which, the September issue is always dedicated to showcasing the new season as we slide towards that magical time of year when layers are shed and wardrobes require a refresh. Filled with 80-plus pages of gorgeous fashion and beauty, this issue is designed to trigger a bold new mood. From colour-infused pieces and pretty accessories to elevated separates and dreamy dresses, spring’s retro, feminine vibe is right up my alley. On my wish list? A pair of slingback kitten heels, a slimline pencil skirt, classic statement bag and drool-worthy jewels (there are more than 50 pieces sprinkled throughout the issue). Hopefully our pages, socials and site will steer your style this spring, whatever your budget. Nicky Briger EDITOR FACEBOOK FACEBOOK.COM/MARIECLAIREAU INSTAGRAM @MARIECLAIREAU TWITTER @MARIECLAIREAU TIKTOK @MARIECLAIRE_ AU WEB MARIECLAIRE.COM.AU 24 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEVAK BABAKHANI; SIMON EELES @ ART BOX BLACK. STYLING BY JORDAN BOORMAN. Prada shoes, $1620, prada.com.
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K AI L I SJ EW E L L E RY.COM . AU
TRENDING NOW Modern FEMININE Delicate lace, intricate florals and gamine knits herald a new wave of soft dressing PHOTOGR APHED BY JEDD CO ONE Y ST YLED BY J O R DA N BO O R M A N Christian Dior dress, $26,000, gloves, $1800, and shoes, $1890, dior.com. marieclaire.com.au | 29
TREND IN G N OW Bottega Veneta top, $5510, bra, $2210, skirt, $5860, gloves, $1670, and shoes, $1540, bottegaveneta.com. 1 2 3 4 8 6 5 7 30 | marieclaire.com.au 1 Camilla and Marc blazer, $950, camillaandmarc.com. 2 Celine ring, $1100, celine.com. 3 Wanderers Travel Co bag, $169, wandererstravelco.com. 4 Lee Mathews cardigan, $399, leemathews.com.au. 5 Chanel boots, $4840, 1300 242 635. 6 Saint Laurent bag, $7600, ysl. com. 7 Tiffany & Co. necklace, $10,800, tiffany.com.au. 8 Gucci belt, $1155, gucci.com.
Fendi top, $1980, skirt, $2980, and boots, $7350, fendi. com; Agmes earrings, $640, agmesnyc.com.
Louis Vuitton jacket, $9450, top, $3900, and skirt, $7950, au. louisvuitton.com.
TR E N D I NG N OW Moniq Elizabeth top, $560, @mnqelizabeth; Burberry pants, $3290, au.burberry.com; Jimmy Choo shoes, $1350, jimmychoo. com; Agmes earrings, $640, agmesnyc.com. 1 2 3 4 5 7 9 1 Coach dress, $1095, coachaustralia.com. 2 Chanel brooch, $1940, 1300 242 635. 3 Charles & Keith shoes, $143, charleskeith.com. 4 Helen Kaminski hat, $325, helenkaminski.com. 5 Sportmax top, $1380, world. sportmax.com. 6 Frankie4 shoes, $259.95, frankie4.com. 7 Jacquemus bag, $1290, at modaoperandi.com. 8 Meadowlark necklace, $1699, meadowlark.com.au. 9 Celine sunglasses, $790, celine.com. 6 8 marieclaire.com.au | 33
TREND IN G N OW 2 Christopher Esber dress, $1695, christopheresber. com.au; Jimmy Choo shoes, $1550, jimmychoo.com; Agmes earrings, 4 5 8 6 34 | marieclaire.com.au 7 1 Siedrés dress, $990, at moda operandi.com. 2 Alaia bag, $1420, at modaoperandi.com. 3 Longines watch, $2275, longines.com. 4 Max Mara skirt, POA, maxmara.com. 5 Claudie Pierlot bracelet, $170, at davidjones. com. 6 Coach shoes, approx $550, coachaustralia.com. 7 Sandro top, $410, sandro-paris.com. 8 Christian Dior belt, $2950, dior.com. HAIR BY ADAM DYER/SAUNDERS & CO. MAKEUP BY KIM PHAM. MODEL: TESS ANGEL/PRISCILLA’S. 3
Miu Miu cardigan, $3950, and shoes, POA, miumiu.com; Uniqlo cardigans (underneath), $39.90 each, uniqlo.com; Anna Quan skirt, $550, annaquan. com; Agmes earrings, $640, agmesnyc.com.
T REND IN G N OW 1 2 3 QUALITY TIME 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 Omega, $7550, omegawatches.com. 2 Chopard, POA, chopard.com. 3 Gucci, $1850, gucci.com. 4 Christian Dior, $8100, dior.com. 5 Chanel, $9700, 1300 242 635. 6 Longines, $6325, longines.com. 7 TAG Heuer, $4600, tagheuer.com. 8 Cartier, $19,200, cartier.com.au. 9 Van Cleef & Arpels, $16,300, vancleefarpels.com/au. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEVAK BABAKHANI. STYLING BY JORDAN BOORMAN. Stay punctual and stylish with a luxury wristwatch
TH E PI EC E t n B a i L l l U i r E B Highly anticipated each year, the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book high jewellery collection dives into an ocean of legacy, writes Samantha Stewart I PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO. t’s not known exactly why French jewellery designer Jean Schlumberger had such a passion for the ocean. Perhaps it was because of his holiday house in Bisdary on the islands of Guadeloupe, or the stories found in great literature. What is known is that this affinity with the deep blue sea and its marvelous creatures provided him with a never-ending tide of inspiration. Schlumberger started working at Tiffany & Co. in 1956, where his surreal marine designs – from gold mackerel with emerald eyes to sapphire-encrusted anemones – caught the attention of many high-profile clients, including Hollywood stars Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. This year, Tiffany’s annual Blue Book collection of high jewellery pays tribute to the timeless designs of Schlumberger. Titled Out of the Blue, the ethereal, luminescent collection will be launched in two phases throughout the remainder of 2023. The first phase is the summer collection, exploring seven aquatic themes. The Shell theme’s transformable pendant features a detachable diamond brooch that reveals a black opal of more than 19 carats. The Coral theme’s pieces feature exuberant tanzanites, sapphires and yellow diamonds, while the Starfish theme’s standout necklace (pictured here) sees starfish tangled between black opals, aquamarines, tourmalines and diamonds. Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue will debut at an exclusive high jewellery celebration at The Landmark, the refurbished Tiffany & Co. store on New York’s Fifth Avenue. marieclaire.com.au | 37
D STATE of GRACE GNE ESI S DO SIE R R A penchant for elevating the ordinary to the extraordinary led to Cartier’s new Grain de Café collection, evoking Old Hollywood glamour for the modern woman
TR E N D I NG N OW OPPOSITE PAGE Brand ambassador Elle Fanning smoulders in Cartier’s new Grain de Café jewellery. THIS PAGE, FROM TOP More than 60 PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF CARTIER. WORDS BY SAMANTHA STEWART. prototypes were made for the pieces; the coffee bean motif was launched in 1938; and the Grain de Café rose gold, obsidian and diamond ring, $34,400, cartier. com.au. A simple coffee bean was all it took to inspire the French high jewellery maison to design some of the most recognisable pieces of the 20th century. In 1938, Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s first female creative director (and a regular patron of Paris’ thriving cafe culture), unveiled the now-legendary Grain de Café collection of exquisite pendants, earrings, rings and brooches. A symbol of creative freedom, nature and carefree elegance, the pieces became global jewellery icons in the 1950s, when they were gifted by the maison to Hollywood starlet Grace Kelly when she married Prince Rainier III of Monaco. Thereafter, the newly crowned Princess Grace of Monaco was rarely spotted without her favourite jewels. “Grain de Café introduces a new preciousness” – Marie-Laure Cérède, Cartier creative director To celebrate the revival of a collection anchored in the house’s history, actor and Cartier global ambassador Elle Fanning was transformed into a modern-day Grace Kelly. American director Alex Prager captured the glamorous vision of the 1950s in a campaign filmed on the French Riviera, where the playful pendants radiate and shimmer under the sunlit French skies. To encapsulate the brightness and light, more than 30 craftsmen were involved in the creation of the bejewelled flora. The result is a vibrant gold collection set with diamonds, rubellite and obsidian, which move with the body and where the slightest gesture creates a precious jingle. Discover the limited-edition creations at your preferred Cartier boutique. marieclaire.com.au | 39
T REND IN G N OW Celine by Hedi Slimane Chain Shoulder Bag Triomphe in Triomphe Canvas, $4800, celine.com. THE BUY Creating a CLASSIC Celine by Hedi Slimane Clutch on Strap Tabou in Triomphe Canvas, $1950, celine.com. 40 | marieclaire.com.au HERE AND ABOVE Celine by Hedi Slimane Ava Triomphe bag in Triomphe Canvas, $3450. COURTESY OF CELINE. WORDS BY MELISSA GAUDRON. S ome bags are just meant to be icons of their time. And Celine’s latest Ava Triomphe shoulder bag is making all the right moves into classic territory. Launched as part of the luxury French house’s winter 2023-24 collection, unveiled in June, the body-hugging bag is a nod to both the old and the new. The old, in terms of the crescent-shaped aesthetic so adored at the turn of the century, but stamped with a modern currency courtesy of Celine’s golden Triomphe plate on its magnetic flap. For lovers of French-fashion history, the Triomphe logo (featuring intertwining Cs) was designed in 1972, inspired by the chains encircling Paris’ Arc de Triomphe. It was relegated to the Celine archives for decades before being brought back to life by artistic director Hedi Slimane in his debut show in 2018. Now, of course, it is forever representative of the Celine brand. The Ava Triomphe, which comes with a zip closure and adjustable strap, is available in tan or white canvas, or in black, chestnut or tan calfskin. It’s part of Celine’s coveted Triomphe Canvas range, which now spans wallets, vanity cases, backpacks, clutches, totes and box bags. We’ll take one of each. CELINE A/W 2021 Celine’s latest offering is both a nod to the past and a hope for a new tradition

S P OTL T REND IN G N OW IG HT ON INTO THE DEEP tylish, seaworthy and designed for all aquatic pursuits, the story of Omega’s preferred timepiece for ocean exploration could pass for maritime folklore. The story begins in 1932, when pioneering divers wearing the Omega Marine watch ventured down into Switzerland’s Lake Geneva, reaching the record-breaking depth of 73 metres. Although not all who seek a quality wristwatch have underwater-oriented goals, a love of quality and design unites those who desire a luxury timepiece. Honouring Omega’s rich maritime heritage and sophisticated craftsmanship is the Seamaster Aqua Terra, a sleek stainless-steel wristwatch water resistant to 150 metres. This year marks the Seamaster’s 75th anniversary, and while it stays true to its seafaring roots, much has changed. Now powered by Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8800, the 38mm edition features a shimmering dial of summer blue that connects with hour indicators in the shape of miniature sailboat hulls, filled with Super-LumiNova. 42 | marieclaire.com.au OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm, $11,225, omegawatches.com. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF OMEGA. WORDS BY SAMANTHA STEWART. Form meets function and heritage meets innovation with Omega’s classic Seamaster timepiece

T REND IN G N OW 1 2 3 5 4 15 CLASS ACTION Elevate the everyday with these quiet luxury staples. Buy now, wear always 6 14 7 13 8 9 12 11 1 Swarovski necklace, $380, swarovski.com. 2 Anna Rossi Jewellery earrings, $79, annarossijewellery.com. 3 Cartier brooch, POA, cartier.com.au. 4 Mimco earrings, $89.95, mimco.com.au. 5 Pandora earrings, $129, pandora.net. 6 Roger Vivier pin, $1080, rogervivier.com. 7 Tiffany & Co. bracelet, POA, tiffany.com.au. 8 Sarah & Sebastian ring, $1295, sarahandsebastian.com. 9 Pandora necklace, $419, and charm, $89, pandora.net. 10 ANTON Jewellery bangle, $8500, antonjewellery.com. 11 Swarovski earrings, $329, swarovski.com. 12 Sener Besim ring, $300, senerbesim.com. 13 Anna Rossi Jewellery earrings, $69, annarossijewellery.com. 14 Georg Jensen bracelet, $14,500, georgjensen.com. 15 Van Cleef & Arpels ring, $36,900, vancleefarpels.com/au. 44 | marieclaire.com.au COMPILED BY JORDAN BOORMAN. 10
MADE WITH AMORE Sustainable Italian Elegance Sophisticated, timeless appeal is at the core of Tema Moda’s sustainability. Elegance and classic, with precise silhouettes and attention to detail, each piece is made to withstand the test of time. AUTHENTIC ITALIAN Our design ethos is very simple: to bring authentic, elegant, and sustainable Italian fashion to the world without the high price tag. Tema Moda makes its clothes with very high-quality sustainable fabrics and is incredibly dedicated to every single stitch. Each piece is hand-crafted by local Italian artisans - it is this heritage of experts that we are committed to supporting in our journey. MADE WITH AMORE – AlwaysTM For more styles and information, visit temamoda.com.au Marta Dress $399.00 Marta Shoulder Wrap $199.00


NEWS FE E D WO M E N L I V I N G F E A R L E S S LY A R O U N D T H E G L O B E ARGENTINA SHELVING the ISSUE Once reserved for coupon queens and doomsday preppers, stockpiling groceries in bulk has become a cheat sheet for the cost-of-living crisis. “Whenever I see a discount, I buy,” says Sara (pictured), from Argentina, which has the third-highest inflation rate in the world. “I have enough shampoo for a year and a half. As long as there is no expiration date, I just pile up ... I’m looking for deals and discounts all the time.” Pulling back the curtain on the crippling effects of economic turmoil, photographer Irina Werning showcases the way money habits have shifted in her new photo series Inflation! “It creates poverty and makes societies more unequal and less productive,” she says. “Some call it funny money but it’s not funny at all.” 48 | marieclaire.com.au
NE W S F E E D GLOBAL Prized Possession Despite the undisputed success of the FIFA Women’s World Cup, achieving gender equality still feels like a pipe dream for women’s sport. (Want proof? The gender pay gap in professional golf is 83 per cent, and coverage of women’s sport in Australia rarely rises above 10 per cent of total sports coverage on any given day.) There is some good news, though, with the International Cricket Council announcing in July that women’s and men’s teams playing in its global events will now receive equal prize money. Howzat! McSweeney won the 2023 BAFTA for Best Comedy Actress for her role in Derry Girls. UK OFF the R ACK Having a slew of fashion designers lining up to dress you might sound like a dream scenario, but for Irish actor Siobhán McSweeney (Derry Girls) a $US398 high-street gown felt like the perfect fit for the prestigious BAFTAs (British Academy Film Awards) ceremony. “I refused to wear anything by a designer who would not design for my body if it wasn’t BAFTAnominated,” said McSweeney in a red-carpet interview. Stepping out in a sleek red vinyl gown by US label Fashion Brand Company, which offers sizing up to 7XL, the gown perfectly captured the star’s talented body of work.
AU S TR A LIA LEAD the WAY For 35 years, Petina Tieman was unaware of her Indigenous heritage. Today, she’s a celebrated First Nations woman, being named a finalist in the Indigenous Businesswoman of the Year category at the esteemed Supplier Diversity Awards for 2023 (which celebrates the achievements of First Nations businesses). Overcoming trauma and abuse during her early life, Tieman now runs a number of business workshops for women from disadvantaged backgrounds, helping them transform their hobbies into profitable micro-businesses. LEFT Petina Tieman (far left) with Sarah the Duchess of York (centre) and Dr Tererai Trent at the 2023 Women Changing The World Awards Global Summit in London, in April. USA Curtain Calling After an LGBTQ storyline caused a high school in Indiana to cancel its student production (a queer retelling of Robin Hood), a group of theatre teens decided the show must always go on. Relocating the play to an outdoor theatre, the students performed to a crowd of about 1500 people, including bulletproof-vest-clad security guards. 50 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY IRINA WERNING; GETTY IMAGES. WORDS BY HARRIET SIM. The play, titled Marian, or The True Tale of Robin Hood, is a gender-bending take on the heroic outlaw story.
NE W S F E E D “Let’s redirect our rage away from the mirror and towards ageism” W E N E E D T O TA L K A B O U T. . . AGEING PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK LEARY. AS TOLD TO HARRIET SIM. Melissa Doyle opens up about the power of growing older and why she’s not fazed by fine lines W e start ageing from the minute we are born. The more time we have, the more we learn, celebrate, love and experience. That’s what makes ageing so glorious. So why do we fear it so much? Ageism has such an insidious impact on the lives of older women. Just look at the multibillion-dollar anti-ageing industry that sells us the idea that ageing is something to hide or rectify, and the fact that women over 55 are the fastest growing cohort of homeless people in Australia. Thankfully, the chorus of those who are pro-ageing is getting louder. We are seeing more and more women, from model Paulina Porizkova to actor Naomi Watts, using their platforms to decry the anti-ageing narrative. As a society, it’s important that we identify, protect and create more opportunities for women to age into the role of elders in our communities, families, workplaces and government institutions, so that we ensure women aren’t unfairly aged out of these spaces. To do this, we need to shift our rage towards the right things. If the external changes that ageing brings are something you want to do something about, go right ahead. Let her among us who has never looked in the mirror and thought “Wait a second” cast the first stone. But let’s not get bogged down in the “war” on wrinkles and grey hair. That’s where the people and institutions that profit off anti-ageing want us to focus and spend our time and resources. Instead, let’s redirect our rage away from the mirror and towards the wage gap, towards ageism in the workplace and towards the persistent blind spots in medical research when it comes to women’s health. Nobody is coming to save us ladies, we have to do it ourselves. Whether or not a woman has a safe, stable and supported older life is directly related to whether she was safe, stable and supported in her younger life. There are actions we can take when we’re younger to change this trajectory: from learning financial literacy to knowing your rights in the workplace. If you’re a late bloomer to all this ageism nonsense ... you’re not too old and it’s not too late for you to impact the quality of your ageing experience. The first step is to take a deep breath and initiate the hard, uncomfortable conversations – from retirement to mortality, relationships to intimacy, finances to housing security – that must be had if we’re going to make lasting positive changes, not just for ourselves but for generations to come. How to Age Against the Machine by Melissa Doyle and Naima Brown (Hardie Grant, $45) is out now. marieclaire.com.au | 51
INNOVATION Breton seaweed and Reishi mushroom THE SUPER-POWERS OF ADAPTOGENS AS A SOURCE OF HYDRATION
SOURCE Tailor-made hydration that lasts 48 to 72 hours and improve skin’s resistance to daily environmental stress. Adaptogen rehydrating serum 90% quenches thirsty skin(1) Adaptogen moisturising cream 91% the skin is plumped and radiant(2) Adaptogen moisturising gel 100% provides a feeling Adaptogen spray moisturiser 91% provides a feeling of freshness instantly(4) of freshness(3) Adaptogen moisturising eye stick 100% eyes look bright and fresh(3) Combine this routine treatment with the Gym Beauté® (1) Use test carried out on 21 volunteers. Applied t wice a day for 4 weeks. % of volunteers who noticed the ef fect. (2) Use test carried out on 23 volunteers. Applied t wice a day for 4 weeks. % of volunteers who noticed the ef fect within 24 hours. (3) Use test carried out on 20 volunteers. Applied t wice a day for 4 weeks. % of volunteers who noticed the ef fect. (4) Use test carried out on 22 volunteers. Applied once a day for 4 weeks. % of volunteers who noticed the ef fect.
R EPO RTAGE FASHION Quiet luxury may be the trend du jour, but it took a back seat during the recent haute couture shows in Paris, where opulence and high drama swept the runways
STÉPHANE ROLLA ND Paying homage to the late opera soprano Maria Callas, Stéphane Rolland staged a theatrical couture show in Paris’ extravagant Opéra Garnier. Models floated up the marble staircase and walked through the theatre (where guests were seated) to a soundtrack of Callas singing. The designer was inspired by photographs of Callas during the ’60s and said, “Those images really show what was the glam and the elegance in Paris at that moment.”
RE PORTAGE I R I S VA N HERPEN The Dutch designer looked to all things aquatic – and the possibility of humans inhabiting the ocean – when seeking inspiration for her fantastical creations. “I come from the Netherlands, where we are below sea level,” said van Herpen backstage. 56 | marieclaire.com.au
S C H I A PA R E L L I Following the controversy of the faux taxidermy at Schiaparelli’s spring/summer couture show in January, the creative director of the house, Daniel Roseberry, decided to try a new tack. “I wanted this season to feel much more free, spontaneous, painterly,” he said. “The idea of the last collection was really to suck the air out of the room. It’s what happened. I think the idea [for autumn/winter] was to really try to keep the focus on the collection and go deeper and deeper into the techniques we wanted to show.”
GIORGIO AR MA NI Giorgio Armani’s couture show, a week before the famed designer’s 89th birthday, saw a resplendent display of ruby-red roses. Exquisite sequined blooms glistened on garments, which managed to maintain the perfect measures of glamour and restraint the legendary house has built its legacy on.
R E P ORTAG E CHRISTIA N DIOR While creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s couture show for Christian Dior was a masterclass in restraint, it was also a breathtaking collection of minimalist gowns inspired by Greek and Roman antiquity. The pleated dresses were reminiscent of Doric columns, while nymphlike gowns paid homage to the Greek and Roman goddesses. FENDI For Fendi’s couture collection, creative director Kim Jones took an unusual approach. “I started with looking at Delfina Delettrez’s Fendi high jewellery, which she’s done for the first time,” he said. Jones’ resulting palette flowed “in almost an organic way, with colours and embroideries based on the hues of natural stones, rubies and sapphires”. marieclaire.com.au | 59
RE PORTAGE 60 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADRIEN DIRAND; IMAXTREE/SNAPPER IMAGES; COURTESY OF CHANEL AND SCHIAPARELLI. WORDS BY BREE PLAYER. CHANEL Creative director Virginie Viard’s show encapsulated what it means to be a Parisienne. Models – including longtime Chanel muse Caroline de Maigret (top left) – strolled along the Seine River in chiffon gowns paired with Mary Janes, while carting flowers in woven baskets.
VIKTOR & ROLF Following their topsy-turvy spring/summer couture collection earlier this year, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren continued their ironic and surrealist take on fashion. Marking the label’s 30th anniversary, the design duo said, “We wanted the celebration to be about the tiniest garment there is: the bathing suit.”
SHE MADE ME DO IT It’s considered the ultimate act of domestic violence, but the horrific crime of “spouse revenge filicide” – where a parent kills their own children to get back at their former partner – is on the rise in Australia Models pictured above are in no way related to this story.
C RI M E Hannah Clarke and her children, Laianah, 4, Aaliyah, 6, and Trey, 3. hen Ingrid Poulson ended her marriage to her abusive husband, Phitak Kongsom, in 2003, he left a menacing note on her car threatening to kill himself and take her with him.When it became clear she would not be returning to their home in Sydney, he sent her a letter warning he was going to cause her “big hurt”. In the end, he inflicted a punishment more shocking than her murder or his own death. He killed their two children instead. “Nothing tops the crime of retaliatory filicide,” says Melbourne criminologist Judy Wright. “For the surviving parent, living with the guilt that her children were killed to pay her back for ending a relationship ... is the most agonising punishment a man can possibly inflict on a woman.” Tragically, while overall homicides in Australia appear to be on the decline, filicides are not. In 2019, a study of 238 child murders in Australia from 2000–2012 showed that when children died in domestic murders, 18 per cent were killed by a biological parent or step-parent – and the perpetrators were generally men. Less than a third of revenge killers were the children’s biological mothers. According to the study by the Monash-Deakin Universities’ Filicide Research Hub, while domestic murders had declined in Australia, the filicide rate remained higher than in the UK and Canada. And where a motive had been established for the crime, a major contributing factor was a recent marital breakdown. An inquest into the 2020 deaths of newly separated Hannah Clarke and her three children backed this up, reinforcing the study’s findings that it’s not only women who are in danger when domestic violence turns deadly. Queensland Deputy State Coroner Jane Bentley was told that in the two years since Rowan Baxter had poured petrol over Clarke and his children ABOVE The deaths of Hannah and her children in Brisbane in 2020 led to an outpouring of grief. “Retaliatory filicide is the most agonising punishment a man can possibly inflict on a woman” ¸Xg^b^cdad\^hiójYnMg^\]i and burnt them to death, murders by dousing had doubled, and more violent offenders were using the same threat to instil terror into abused families. The case also showed that while separation is known to be the most dangerous time for a woman, it is also a dangerous time for her children, particularly when there are disputes about access. Tragically, unlike other child homicides, the young victims of retaliatory murders are never the true targets of an aggrieved, enraged father. The children are collateral damage in a crime where the real target is the surviving mother. Today, as Queensland prepares to become the first state to criminalise coercive control (an insidious form of family violence) we have yet to find a solution for crimes like these. But some positive inroads are being made. The Clarke family’s foundation, Small Steps 4 Hannah, has been tackling the issues at the roots, teaching kids in schools about respectful behaviours and delivering programs to men’s groups about domestic violence and coercive control. It is also funding the building of accommodation for women escaping family violence, while other charities (such as Hearts of Purple and Friends with Dignity) have helped provide crisis accommodation. Two designated domestic violence police stations have also opened in Brisbane. But there’s a long way to go. At a time when one Australian woman dies every week at the hands of an intimate or former spouse, and another 10 are hospitalised each day with injuries from domestic violence, it seems the lessons are not being learnt. marieclaire.com.au | 63
FROM LEFT Dionne Dalton, pictured 10 weeks after the murder of her children, at a campaign to protect children against domestic violence. Michelle Steck with her daughter Kelly. MICHELLE STECK D I O N N E D A LT O N To his Brisbane electorate, One Nation candidate Jayson Dalton, 32, was a devoted family man whose political agenda included fighting family violence. But behind closed doors, Dalton was an unpredictable bully who routinely beat and terrorised his wife, Dionne, leaving bruises no-one could see. When the mother of two finally fled her violent four-year marriage in 2004, she suffered a breakdown and was hospitalised with the sort of PTSD doctors typically observe in soldiers returning from combat. When Dalton heard his wife was in hospital, he demanded custody of Jessie, 17 months, and Patrick, 12 weeks, confident this would force Dionne’s return to the marital home. He was given temporary custody but lost his bid for full-time care and was livid that he would now see them only on alternate weekends. Dionne spent the weekend at her mother’s home on the Gold Coast, preparing for the kids’ return, but Dalton was making plans of his own. In the early hours of April 25, 2004, Dalton sedated his children and suffocated them with plastic bags. He adorned Jessie in her mother’s wedding ring and other special jewellery, and posed her beside her baby brother on the marital bed, writing the times of their deaths on the wall. Later, 64 | marieclaire.com.au he lay between his lifeless children and suffocated himself too. When Dalton failed to return the children, Dionne called police, and her stepfather drove her to her former home. “From the moment I saw the blue flashing lights outside my house I knew,” says Dionne, whose collapse when she heard the news was captured by TV cameras. Dalton had spent the weekend searching online for information on suicide. “At 8.30 that morning, he had emailed me a goodbye letter before calling his father to say he and the children were about to take a long sleep,” she reveals. The funerals passed in a blur as Dionne braced herself for a Mother’s Day without her babies. “It was so unreal – I just felt completely empty,” she says. In July, determined her children’s lives had to count for something, she joined Hetty Johnston’s campaign to give children a voice in parliament, and later worked with domestic violence groups in Queensland. Today, Dionne is happily married to Glenn Fehring, and a mother to teenagers Sean and Melissa. “I’m blessed to have found happiness again,” she says. “But the pain and the aching loss never goes away. It never leaves you.” On New Year’s Day 1993, Perth woman Michelle Steck, 24, packed her bags and left her abusive four-year relationship with her violent partner’s words ringing in her ears. “You’re going to pay for your actions for a very long time,” spat Kevin East, 34. After she left with her children – Kelly, almost three, and Wesley, seven months – the menacing continued as East turned up at her new home threatening to “get” her. “When he discovered I was seeing someone else, he wrapped himself in Glad Wrap and turned up on my doorstep threatening to stab himself,” she says. “The police felt sorry for him and even let him use my shower before arresting him” – mother Michelle Steck On the pretext of helping with some rewiring, the electronics expert secreted listening devices in Michelle’s new house in Collie, WA, bugging her phone so he could spy on her as he had when they were together. Later, he hid in her roof to monitor her more closely. “I returned home one day and heard my toilet flushing,” explains Michelle, who slipped out and called police. “They felt sorry for him and even let him use my shower before arresting him.” He was released without charge, so Michelle took out a restraining order, but East continued to watch her from the bush block across the road. In November, Kelly returned from a visit saying that her father had put a cushion over her face while she ate a biscuit. Michelle’s lawyer said the word of a three-year-old would not be
C RI M E FROM BELOW Jack and Jennifer Edwards had everything to live for, and their mother, Olga, tried desperately to protect them. Family lived in fear of gun-owning father The Edwards’ Normanhurst home; financial adviser John Edwards; right, estranged wife Olga Edwards. Main photo: Wolter Peeters Olga Edwards and her two children, Jack, 15, and Jennifer, 13, fled their Normanhurst home two years ago, escaping a life of fear and violence. Left enraged and embittered, John Edwards used his own guns to kill their children on Thursday. He returned to the family home and took his own life. Lucy Cormack and Sally Rawsthorne report. NEWS PAGE 8 PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIAM KIDSTON/NEWSPIX; COURTESY OF MICHELLE STECK; JAMIE HANSON/NEWSPIX; FAIRFAX; NEWSPIX; GETTY IMAGES. O L G A E D WA R D S considered reliable. “So we have to wait until he does something?” she yelled. On Sunday, December 12, 1993, Michelle’s worst fears were realised when East failed to return her daughter. In a heated phone exchange, she told him police were at her house waiting for him. East bolted. A nationwide manhunt began, and Michelle spent an agonising Christmas praying for her daughter’s safe return. In fact, Kelly had been taken on a 200km drive into the bush near Beverley, WA. At 3.15am the day after her abduction, East ran a hose from the exhaust into the car, killing Kelly and himself. Their bodies weren’t discovered until January 10. “He’d hidden the car to make it harder to find them, and [wrote] a death diary recording Kelly’s final moments to add to my suffering,” says Michelle. “The police advised me not to read it.” The day before he fled, East had posted Michelle recordings of the songs “My Michelle” and “Sweet Child O’ Mine” both by Guns N’ Roses, evidence of his proprietorial attitude. Today, Michelle has a new life with her long-term partner, a former political rival she met during her time in local politics, where she lobbied for change and became a campaigner in the war on family violence. “The tragedy is that the red flags were always there,” she says, “and even when I waved them in people’s faces, nobody listened until it was too late.” If this story raises concerns, please call Lifeline on 13 11 14, or the domestic violence hotline on 1800 737 732. On July 5, 2018, retired financial planner John Edwards parked his car near Sydney’s Pennant Hills train station and waited for his daughter. Unlike other parents who waited with engines idling, ready to drive their children home after the afternoon school commute, Edwards was not there to give his daughter a lift. Armed with a Glock semi-automatic pistol and at least two 10-round magazines of ammunition, Edwards, 68, was on a countdown to murder. Two years earlier, Edwards’ Russian-born wife, Olga, 35, had fled the marital home with their children – Jack ,15, and Jennifer 13 – to escape the terrifying regime of abuse and violence that had been a disturbing theme in five of his six previous marriages. Facing yet another divorce, Edwards tracked his frightened family down. Furious, he bombarded his estranged wife with abusive phone calls and stalked her and the children, who were traumatised by his violence. When Olga reported his past violence and stalking to the police, he’d already got in first, warning them she might make false allegations against him to bolster her claim for custody. Police failed to properly record or follow up her allegations of violence with the children. In 2017, with the battle for custody before the courts, Edwards applied for multiple gun permits and joined a local gun club. Events ramped up in April 2018, when he lost his bid for shared custody. He bought two high-powered handguns to add to his cache of firearms and his focus shifted to his children. But first he had to find them. Whether he hired a private detective or stalked Jennifer himself is not clear, but by July he knew her after-school movements. He watched his unsuspecting daughter board a bus and followed her home to West Pennant Hills. Screeching behind her onto the driveway, Edwards chased her into the house, where she fled to her brother’s room and the terrified siblings tried to hide under Jack’s desk. Edwards followed, opening fire on his cowering children, who died from multiple gunshots. By the time their solicitor mother arrived home at 6pm, her house was a crime scene, and police were waiting with the shattering news that her children were dead. “My husband is responsible for this,” she told them, unaware the killer lay dead in her former marital home after shooting himself. At the suicide scene, police found the murder weapon, copies of Jennifer’s train timetables and a T-shirt proclaiming, “Best Dad in the World.” The inquest heard that Edwards was a bully feared by his 10 children and six of his seven ex-wives. In her findings, handed down in 2021, NSW State Coroner Teresa O’Sullivan found that systemic failures by police, the Family Court and the NSW Firearms Registry had all contributed to the deaths of Jack and Jennifer Edwards. The Firearms Registry failed to perform background checks for a gun licence, the NSW Police failed to investigate Olga’s complaints of stalking and violence, and the Family Court failed to protect the children. Her recommendations included mandatory DV training for police and registry staff and better sharing of information between them and the Family Court. Tragically, it was too little too late for Olga Edwards, who was so bereft by her loss that she took her own life before the inquest was concluded. This feature article is an edited extract from Look What You Made Me Do: Fathers Who Kill, by Megan Norris (Big Sky Publishing, $32.99).
I NTE RV I EW On a high Chloé Hayden on healing, Heartbreak High and finding her happily ever after WORDS BY ADRIENNE TAM PHOTOGRAPHED BY SIMON EELES
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IN TERVI EW “Being autistic meant I had to mask my whole life in order to survive, so I had to perform” Iordanes Spyridon Gogos x Akira Isogawa x Clair Helen dress, iordanesspyridongogos. com; Yousef Akbar stocking shoes, yousef akbar.com; Swarovski ring, swarovski.com. OPPOSITE PAGE Comme des Garçons top, at parlourx. com; Michael Lo Sordo top (underneath) and skirt, michaellosordo.com; Prada shoes, at parlourx.com.
rowing up, Chloé Hayden didn’t see anyone like her on screen. Bullied and ostracised by her school peers for being “different”, she was diagnosed with autism at the age of 13 and switched to home education after attending 10 schools in eight years. She spent many of her teen years blogging about her experience with autism under the pseudonym Princess Aspien and, to her surprise, thousands of people reached out in response, thanking her for making them feel that they weren’t alone. Today, the 26-year-old is once again paving the way for neurodivergent people all over the world with her Logie-award nominated portrayal of autistic character Quinni in Netflix’s Heartbreak High series reboot. The hit Australian show, which is shooting its second season, was lauded globally for its grittiness as well as its diversity and truthful representation. While previous depictions of autistic characters were mainly played stereotypically by neurotypical men, Hayden’s rendering is nuanced and authentic. As well as starring in Heartbreak High, the actor is the host of the new podcast Boldly Me, where she interviews high-profile personalities about being their true, bold selves. Hayden is also the author of last year’s release Different, Not Less: A neurodivergent’s guide to embracing your true self and finding your happily ever after, which is a practical guide as well as a personal – and at times heartbreaking – account of what she went through as a child. In it, she tells of finding notes in her school locker telling her to kill herself. Once, she had a sleepover party and gave BFF necklaces to the girls who attended, only to discover they’d thrown them in the bin the next day, saying, “We’d never be friends with you.” Teachers told her she needed to “grow up” and gave her detention when she cried about not understanding her lessons. Fast-forward to now and Hayden’s life is a far cry from those dark days. In December last year, she and partner Dylan Rohan got engaged, with the star sharing the happy news on her social media accounts, which total about 1 million fans across TikTok and Instagram. The couple have just bought their first home together. “Marriage means I get to spend forever with my best friend,” Hayden tells marie claire on the set of her cover shoot. Rohan, who is listening in, adds, “And build a future together.” They smile adoringly at each other. Here, the winner of marie claire’s Rising Star accolade at our 2022 Women of the Year awards reflects on what life might have been like had autism been represented more on screen when she was young, and why she’ll always speak her mind and stand up for her community.
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I NT E RV I E W How did it feel to be nominated for the 2023 Most Popular New Talent Logie for your role as Quinni in Heartbreak High? I remember when I first got the role of Quinni in Heartbreak, me and Mum were joking about the idea of attending the Logies one day. Mum said to me, “Oh my God, now you’re on Netflix, imagine that one day you get to go to the Logies!” And I was like, “Oh my God, that’s crazy! That would never happen. Imagine that.” We weren’t even pipedreaming a nomination. We were pipe-dreaming just attending. So to be nominated in two categories [Heartbreak High was also up for Most Popular Drama Series] in my first year isn’t anything we ever dreamed would’ve happened. You’re obviously a talented actor. Was acting always on the cards for you? I’ve always wanted to be a performer. When I was a kid, I used to force my siblings to do plays with me and I’d direct them. I’d make my sister play Barbie with me but I was like, “Here’s your script.” I was always putting on performances and writing songs [from] age four, which were not good, but I knew I loved performing. Being autistic meant I had to mask my whole life in order to survive, so I had to perform. When I learnt that performing could be my job, I was like, “Well, I’m doing this shit for free, so I might as well get paid for it!” But as soon as I left the house, I was nonverbal. I couldn’t speak to anyone. It wasn’t really an option for me. My dad would joke that if I wanted to be a performer, I’d have to mime. But performing was my biggest dream in the entire world. So despite the fact I couldn’t even walk in a straight line, let alone dance, and that I froze up whenever I was asked to sing or speak in front of people, my parents were like, “Well, this is her dream, so we’re gonna do whatever it takes to get there.” Every time I got kicked out of a dance class for being too bad, my mum would say, “That’s fine, we’ll find you another one.” We used to live in this tiny little town in the bottom of Victoria and my dad would drive me eight hours every week just to go to an acting class. My dad is the best person in the whole world, I love him so much. When I was like, “I want to be a motivational speaker,” he was like, “OK, well, you’re going to speak to me first.” So every single night, my mum and dad would sit there and I’d stand up and read monologues to them. Despite all odds, they made sure I was able to get to where I wanted to be. I owe everything to them. What was your reaction when you were told you had the role of Quinni? When I got the role, I was doing a motivational talk in Albury-Wodonga. At nine o’clock at night, I had 30 missed calls from my agent. I got off stage at halftime intermission and my PA was like, “Daniel’s calling you, I don’t know what’s happening.” And I was like, “That’s so weird. It’s nine o’clock on a Friday night. What’s he doing calling me?” So I step outside and I call him back and he doesn’t even say hello. The first thing he says to me is, “Are you sitting down?” And as soon as he said those words, I didn’t even ask what else, I just broke down, sobbing my heart out. There was a security guy watching me, going, “What do I do with her?” I was on the ground in an alleyway, crying my eyes out. And then I had to go back in and finish the show, still bawling my eyes out. But I couldn’t tell anyone for almost a year because we had to keep it a secret until a couple months after we started shooting. So I went back in and people were like, “Oh my God, are you OK?” And I was like, “Yeah, I’m just really happy to be here!” When you were shooting the first season, did you have any idea just how loved this show would become? Not even close. I knew that it was special because when I got the casting brief for Quinni, she was very boldly depicted as a neurodivergent person. And I’ve never seen that before. It’s [usually] like, this person is “quirky” or this person is “XY”. We never actually see “this person is definitively neurodivergent”. So I knew it was going to be special, but I didn’t realise how many other people would think it was special. We had a couple of people who’ve been in the industry for a long time say to us, “Are you guys prepared for when the show blows up?” and all of us were like, “That’s not gonna happen. It’s Australia, that sort of stuff doesn’t happen to Australians.” And then the day after it came out, I was walking through Sydney and I got mobbed. And I was like, “Oh, OK, this is big!” It was a full Hannah Montana moment. My whole world just turned around literally overnight. It was crazy. What would it have meant to you and your family to see a character like Quinni when you were diagnosed with autism at 13? It honestly would have changed the whole trajectory of my life. You can’t be what you can’t see. Growing up, never seeing myself represented, I grew up thinking I wasn’t supposed to be here. In some ways, it’s the most overwhelmingly exciting thing to be able to be one of the firsts. Young people can look at Quinni and go, “OK, if she exists as wholly and beautifully and unapologetically as she does, then I can too.” But in other ways it’s devastating that it took us so long to get to this point. I don’t think people understand just how much of an impact media has on the way we perceive reality. Media chooses what our reality is. Probably weekly I will still get messages or comments in real life going, “You’re nothing like Sheldon Cooper [the character in The Big Bang Theory].” It happens all the time. And it’s because this is what we believe autism to be. Even when we see real versions of it in the news or whatever, it’s always done in a really negative way. It’s “This person did this and, oh, by the way, they’re autistic.” So if I’d had a Quinni growing up, not only would I have felt represented, but my family, my teachers, my peers in school and so many other people in my life would have gone, “OK, I understand what this is because I’ve seen it before,” rather than, “I think I understand what this is because I’ve seen an incorrect stereotype.” “The day after Heartbreak came out, I was mobbed. My world turned around overnight” marieclaire.com.au | 71
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Hayden (in green) with the cast of hit Netflix series Heartbreak High at the 2023 Logie Awards; with her fiancé Dylan Rohan at marie claire’s Women of the Year awards; and in a scene from Heartbreak High. In your book Different, Not Less, you wrote about being viciously bullied as a child and how much it affected you. Was it cathartic to write about your experience? In some ways it was really beautiful. In other ways it was really, really difficult because in order to make sure that my story was being told and that other people were able to be heard, I had to go back to a lot of trauma I had buried very deep and that I didn’t ever want to bring up again. But I knew how important it was to make sure that these stories were told. I have a philosophy that everything happens for a reason. My understanding of that is: I went through what I went through so another young girl doesn’t have to. Do you ever feel the weight of being a role model or representing an entire community of people? Sometimes there’s definitely a pressure there. At times I get comments saying, “You don’t represent me” and “You can only talk for yourself ’’ and I agree, I can only talk for myself. I can only speak from my own experience. But the amount of messages I’ve received saying, “I got my autism diagnosis after watching Heartbreak High,” or “I’m starting to openly stim [short for self-stimulating behaviour] more often watching your videos,” or “I understand myself now and my family understands me now,” makes it a lot easier to ignore the negative voices. 72 | marieclaire.com.au Aside from autism, you’ve openly spoken about being diagnosed with ADHD, endometriosis, adenomyosis and Postural Orthostatic Tachycardia Syndrome [POTS]. Is there anything you don’t like to discuss? I think there’s things I’m still healing from that I’m not ready to talk about, but there’s nothing that I’m a closed book over. Maybe that’s the autism and me not knowing social cues and being like, “I don’t know what things I shouldn’t say so I’m just gonna say it all.” I’ve always thought that if I had something I needed to say, I’m going to say it. What are your thoughts on the writers’ and actors’ strike currently happening in the US? I think it’s incredibly important to strike. I’m very pro-union. If it came down to it in Australia, I’d be the first one on the picket line. I absolutely stand in solidarity with [the strikers]. You and Dylan were engaged last year and will wed next year. How is the wedding planning going? I don’t really have time to plan anything. My mum’s my low-key wedding planner. And I have the most incredible PA, who is just on the ball with everything. So we’ve kind of come up with themes and basic ideas, and I’m like, “You go do something and then when it’s A or B, I could choose from that.” What was your first date like? On our first date, Louis Tomlinson from One Direction was going on tour and his tickets were coming out. Dylan had made this beautiful picnic down by the river and halfway through I’m like, “Look, this is great but I need to buy Louis Tomlinson tickets.” And he was so fine with it, but I was sitting there on Ticketmaster freaking out! I was just like a little gremlin trying to get these tickets on our first date. I got the best tickets you could and then I went, “Anyway, where were we?” [Laughs] Speaking of One Direction, earlier this year you were at a Harry Styles concert in Melbourne and stadium staff made you feel unwelcome when you attempted to access Marvel Stadium’s sensory room. You met with the CEO of the stadium to discuss how to ensure this didn’t happen again. How do you feel knowing you can exact positive change? My voice was taken away from me for so long, so I still struggle to remember that I do have the ability and the power to incite change. I mean, all of us do. But I think particularly in circumstances like that, I forget that I don’t have to be a victim. When Marvel said, “OK, we will build another sensory room; we’ll make sure more people can fit in it and we’re not going to fact-check people,” I was like, “Wow.” I still feel like I’m 16 years old and blogging in my bedroom as Princess Aspien. I kind of forget that it’s not just me anymore; it’s a million people on my social media and [they all] have my back. Sometimes when the negative thoughts are a bit too loud, I just open Instagram and open the first message in my message requests and read the most beautiful comment. I’m like, “Nah, I’m doing OK. I’ve got a lot of people on my side.” Heartbreak High is streaming now on Netflix. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON EELES/ART BOX BLACK; GETTY IMAGES. FASHION DIRECTOR: NAOMI SMITH. STYLED BY JORDAN BOORMAN. HAIR BY DIANE GORGIEVSKI/THE ARTIST GROUP. MAKEUP BY LINDA JEFFERYES/THE ARTIST GROUP. PRODUCTION BY ROBYN FAY-PERKINS. I NT E RVIE W
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FROM LEFT Miss Sahara 2023 finalists Hillary Omoregbe (representing Nigeria), Afaf Saad (Sudan), Charmaine Chaparadza (Zimbabwe), Tamirirashe Matara (Zimbabwe), Janine Baraka (Congo), Ruva Shoko (Zimbabwe), Henrietta Adomako (Ghana) and Nyaradzo Wekwete (Zimbabwe), flanking 2022 Miss Sahara winner Rider Antwi (fifth from left) and Miss Sahara founder Anyier Yuol (fifth from right). 74 | marieclaire.com.au
IN S PI R AT I ON The AFRICAN QUEENS In the world of soulless beauty pageants, our homegrown Miss Sahara is a shining light of satin, sequins and empowerment for a new generation of trailblazing Australians PHOTOGRAPHED BY BONNIE HANSEN WORDS BY MELISSA GAUDRON t is 15-minutes until show time, and backstage the Miss Sahara contestants are in a mild panic. The national costumes – in particular, the jawdropping jewellery – are creating some last-minute hitches. Volunteers scramble to get the adornments in their correct positions, stacking layers of necklaces, rings and bracelets on the anxious pageant participants, snaking them around arms, legs, necks, hands and heads. The dressing room is an epic explosion of colour, prints, textures and beading. For Nyaradzo (Nyara) Wekwete, who at 28 is the pageant’s oldest contestant, it’s a final chance to secure her bright-blue traditional isicholo hat before opting to escape the mayhem. “I’m going to go and listen to my music before I have a panic attack,” she says, slipping out of the dressing area, adjusting earpods as she leaves. With nerves taut and the clock ticking, it’s time for some final words of encouragement from Miss Sahara founder Anyier Yuol, who appears in front of the throng in a sequinned showstopper frock, gathering the eight finalists into a huddle. “I am so proud of you all,” she says. “You have all worked so hard to get to this stage. But now is the chance to showcase how beautiful each and every one of you is. Tonight is about showing everyone the essence and beauty of the African queen.” The girls whoop in delight and head offstage to begin the proceedings that will culminate in the crowning of Miss Sahara 2023. The pageant is a celebration of Australian African women and kicks off with an elaborate national costume section, then a (non-judged) swimwear category and the evening gown finale. Throughout the journey the participants have been adorned with sashes and given lessons in deportment, styling and make-up. So far, so Miss Congeniality. But while the event has all the hallmarks of a traditional beauty pageant (minus the mentions of world peace), Miss Sahara is so much more.
RIGHT Miss Sahara finalists gather in the marshalling area to put the finishing touches on their amazing outfits. T he charismatic founder at the helm of the pageant is both its beating heart and its ambitious soul. A South Sudanese refugee who spent the first decade of her life in Kenya’s Kakuma refugee camp, Anyier Yuol started Miss Sahara in 2018 after competing in local beauty pageants that sadly lacked diversity. “I entered beauty pageants to increase my confidence,” explains Anyier. “But I noticed pretty quickly that I never saw other women who looked like me. African women and women of colour were poorly represented at these pageants. I saw this as an opportunity to launch Miss Sahara so we could celebrate the rich cultural diversity of Australian African women. “But while I really love the beauty aspect of it and for increasing representation in the fashion industry, it’s the leadership aspect of the program that I am most excited by. It’s about empowering women from culturally diverse backgrounds to make real contributions to society.” The annual competition is open to women from all over Australia, with each participant representing their African background. The 2023 cohort has women from Zimbabwe, Nigeria, Sudan, Ghana and the Congo and their progress is assessed over the night by a panel of judges. The women are from the large African communities spread throughout Australian suburbs. One of the main facilitators of the Miss Sahara leadership program is Juliana Nkrumah, founder of African Women Australia and a legendary figure in the Africa diaspora, who now sits on the judging panel. She said she looks for women who can be passionate ambassadors, who can articulate about purpose and representing their communities. “As I tell the girls, it’s about what comes from the inside that’s important, not what’s on the outside.” Anyier agrees with “Aunty Juliana” and is so passionate about the changemaking aspect of Miss Sahara that the initiative is now part of her Lead Beyond Education charity, which 76 | marieclaire.com.au THE PREP Anyier Yuol knows how to make an entrance. RIGHT The incomparable MC Sheron Sultan. T H E P E P TA L K provides life-changing education, leadership and human-rights advocacy for young women and girls from refugee backgrounds. Anyier believes in the power of change in her adopted country. She wants more inclusivity. She wants more diversity. She wants more equality. She wants contestants to dream big – and they are inspired by her passion. For Rider Antwi, the 2022 winner, the program has not only helped give her a laser-beam focus to complete her studies while working to become a financial planner, but to see how to pay it forward in her own community. “I wasn’t really interested in the “MISS SAHARA CLEEBRATES THE RICH CULTURAL DIVERSITY OF AUSTRALIAN AFRICAN WOMEN” – founder Anyier Yuol Tamirirashe Matara and Henrietta Adomako in their evening gowns. beauty pageantry part of Miss Sahara as I am a tomboy. I am literally wearing pants under this dress, I swear,” Rider adds, laughing and lifting her voluminous skirt. “But I liked what Anyier was doing, especially around empowering young girls. I didn’t know anyone like her, especially a Black woman. “Miss Sahara helped me to identify a gap in our culture around money,” Rider continues. “Parents don’t talk about money with their families. Traditionally, fathers see themselves as providers, so girls often miss out on being empowered. Now I have been running workshops for women on financial literacy and how important it is. The most important thing I learnt being a beauty queen is that I could also open doors for other women.” Janine Baraka, a finalist who lives in South Australia, has been inspired to look for ways she can make a difference in Adelaide, home
IN S PIR AT I ON CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW On the Anyier Yuol (right), with model Malaan Ajang, working the room at Sydney’s Doltone House. to a growing African community, and she has found her own way to give back. “I work in the foster-care system where the percentage of Africandescendant children keeps on growing, but these children don’t really have an identity,” says Janine. “They think putting on African attire is taboo and they are ashamed to eat African food as it is foreign to them. So I ran a workshop on African culture, which many of these children attended, and they loved the chance to talk about their heritage. We don’t have anything as beautiful as Miss Sahara in South Australia, so I wanted to learn how I could make an impact and I’m now determined to look for new solutions.” For Nyara Wekwete, a soon-to-be film school graduate, the experience has been nothing short of an awakening – personally and politically. “I am passionate about inclusion in films, as I grew up watching stories that weren’t about me,” she says. “I’m also LGBT, so the Black, queer experience is the story I really want to tell [to] help break the stigma around it. A lot of families, like my parents, are not very accepting. I want kids who are like me to know that they are not alone, that what they are experiencing is not insanity, and how they feel is valid.” TH E COMP “I WANTED TO LEARN HOW I COULD MAKE AN IMPACT. NOW I’M DETERMINED TO LOOK FOR NEW SOLUTIONS” – Janine Baraka B ack at the pageant, the judges have whittled it down to the top three, who must each answer a curly question from one of the judges. First up is Afaf Saad, a stunning 23-year-old registered nurse from Sydney’s western suburbs, who is passionate about health education. The question is a doozy about beauty pageants and objectifying women. “Beauty pageants are more than just being a pretty face and glamour,” she catwalk in stunning evening gowns; Ruva Shoko receives her award from Network Ten’s Daniel Doody; Charmaine Chaparadza in swimwear; more of the evening gown parade; Afaf Saad in her Sudan-inspired national costume; Nyara Wekwete dancing in her national costume. answers. “They push you to do good and give back. It has taught me leadership skills and how to chase what I want, and what I want is change for my community.” The speech gets raucous applause (even without the mention of world peace). Henrietta Adomako is up next and is asked about what could be her greatest contribution to the African community in Australia. The 21-yearold arrived in Australia four years ago from Ghana, travelling with her family to Australia to “find a better life”. It’s a dream that is coming true as she is completing her medical-science degree.
IN SPI RATION TH E CROWNING CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Miss HONOUR ROLL Henrietta Adomako Miss Sahara 2023 Hillary Omoregbe 1st Runner Up Afaf Saad 2nd Runner Up Charmaine Chaparadza Best in Evening Gown* Janine Baraka People’s Choice Nyaradzo Wekwete Woman of Impact Ruva Shoko Best in Swimwear* Tamirirashe Matara Social Media Favourite Sahara 2022 Rider Antwi (who admits to wearing pants under that dress!); waiting for the big announcement; Miss Sahara 2023 Henrietta Adomako after her win; and the final walk down the runway. * Judged on creativity and confidence CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Miss Sahara 2023 is hugged and crowned by last year’s queen Rider Antwi; and the top three finalists pose together onstage. 78 | marieclaire.com.au “My greatest contribution is to be a voice for the young girls out there who can’t speak for themselves,” she says with quiet confidence. “Being a medical student, I aspire to find cures for diseases that worry women and to foster a community where women feel safe to speak up about issues.” After a final strut down the catwalk by all the contestants, the winner is finally announced and Sydney’s Henrietta Adomako is crowned Miss Sahara 2023. But in the world of beauty pageants, everyone’s a winner. “If a girl like me – someone who is introverted and not at all confident about being out of my shell – can win Miss Sahara then it’s proof girls can be whatever they want to be,” Henrietta says. “That’s been my biggest lesson from being a part of Miss Sahara.” The other contestants concur about the magic in the Miss Sahara recipe. For Nyara it has been a life-changing chance to find her own community in Australia. “There’s a sisterhood here that doesn’t happen back home,” she says. “It’s very tribal in Africa, but maybe here in the diaspora we find the things that bind us together even though we are so different from one another.” Maybe Miss Sahara has worked out the secret to world peace after all.
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FIR ST P ERS ON THE CONWOMAN In the mid-2010s, Caroline Calloway ruled Instagram due to her pithy posts of life at Cambridge University. Then, it all came crashing down around her in a spectacular internet slapdown. Here, in an extract from her new memoir, Calloway tells her truth LE T’S RECAP, WHO IS CAROLINE CALLOWAY? Scammer might be Caroline Calloway’s first memoir but it’s not the first time she’s written about her life. The 31-year-old influencer has been doing that since 2013, when she first made an Instagram account and bought 40,000 fake followers for $US4.99. Calloway’s early Instagram posts were long and intimate accounts of her life at the University of Cambridge, where she was studying art history. Her romanticised tales of British academic life – with its river punts, champagne-charged student parties and calamitous love affairs – found Calloway her first readers, who treated her Instagram account like a Dickensian serial. It was the beginning of Calloway’s carefully curated online identity, which, over the years, has taken on many forms to include New York socialite, Instagram artist, OnlyFans creator and, perhaps most famously, scammer. Calloway was first called a scammer around the time she attempted to host a series of now infamous “creativity workshops” to pay back a $US100,000 book advance she owed a publisher for a book she’d never written. The internet accused the workshops of being disorganised and overpriced, while images of Calloway’s 1200 empty mason jars went viral. People 80 | marieclaire.com.au compared her to the notorious con-artist Anna Delvey, while articles described Calloway as a “one-woman Fyre Festival”. Then, in a revealing tell-all for New York magazine’s website The Cut, Calloway’s close friend claimed to be her ghostwriter. The essay tore the remainders of Calloway’s perfected online persona to shreds – so Calloway made herself a better one. She took back the word scammer and turned it into her brand. She began wearing T-shirts with the word brandished on her chest like a scarlet letter. Calloway became the one thing women embroiled in scandals aren’t allowed to be: completely and utterly unapologetic – and it was hard not to love her for it. Ironically, Scammer is not a scam. Calloway’s 158-page self-published memoir is a funny, slightly mad and yet very real book. Within it, she reclaims her narrative and provides new insights into a story we thought we already knew. The book also gives Calloway a new identity: one as a published author. “I’m going to spend the rest of my life writing books, whether or not other people believe me,” she tells marie claire. From Caroline Calloway, you wouldn’t expect anything less. he worst scams I ever perpetrated were the ones for which I was never caught. I lied on my application to England’s University of Cambridge. Here’s how. I began by photoshopping my transcript results from Phillips Exeter Academy. Was this difficult with their complex visual watermark? Yes. But I’m an art historian and artist. The reason Cambridge didn’t catch me was that every time you apply to the school, you apply to one of the individual colleges and not to the university itself. These colleges are totally decentralised and loathe sharing anything amongst each other – including files on applicants. I only had to change one grade on my American report card from Exeter but it was a bad one. My senior spring I’d gotten a D+ in Ancient Greek as that class was at the same time my boyfriend had a free period, during which he liked to fuck me in his top bunk bed. I changed that D+ to an A-. Then I lied to Cambridge like this: on my two AP English Lit exams, I’d gotten one 5 and one 4. Ditto AP Latin exams. I told Cambridge I got four 5s instead. My lies looked so rhythmic next to all my other 5s in AP Art History and Italian, and so believable next to my perfect score on the reading section of the SATs. I’d all but failed the math portion because I can’t count, but I’d failed the writing segment, too, because I couldn’t finish it in time.

FI RST P ERS ON My Cambridge interview was scheduled for my 21st birthday. I spent it with my mom and my art history textbooks in a pub, cramming between my meetings, scraped-out with stress by the time we nervously clinked pint glasses and toasted about good luck. Twenty-one is an age that means nothing in England. Perhaps you’d think I feel guilty about lying on my Cambridge application but I don’t. I think I made the right choice then, just as I am making the right choice writing about my lies now. It’s not about what’s best for the texture of my day-to-day happiness. It’s about what’s best for the art. Will Cambridge take my degree away? Will there be a public outcry? People already think there is nary but tinsel and fluff in my pretty, evil mind. I can’t imagine that shooting myself in the foot of the best credential I have going will help the literary critics take me seriously. But my goal is to write as if already dead. Living with a veil of daydreams between myself and reality for so long – all the years of telling people I’m a writer who hasn’t written any books – was good practice for this. Courage takes courage, but you can always substitute it with self-delusion if that’s all you have in the pantry. The night I found out I’d gotten into Cambridge, I saw a shooting star – swear to fucking God! I saw a shooting star in New York City, the place where you see celebrities on the streets every day, but the night sky turns that weird opaque and starless mauve most nights. “If you’ve never had a scandal, continue to have none. If you’ve had one, begin having as many as you can” The January after I turned 21 in a country where no-one cares, I’d had a pretty rough Christmas. All my relatives on my mom’s side thought applying to Cambridge a third time after I had already been rejected twice was overindulged lunacy – a spoilt fool’s bratty errand. A waste of money on flights. My aunts tilted their heads in unison. “Aren’t you already a sophomore at NYU?” And again I’d explain my dream of being a very specific, Anglophilic writer into their hearing aids. It unsettled me that my only relatives who found my vision for my life – and the books I’d write about it – sound, were my dad and his siblings. At my second Christmas dinner, my uncle fingered the war medals he’d bought in thrift stores, tinkling them like bells. “You’re a shoo-in,” he said gravely, eyes unfocused. Alone in the car later with my mom, she said not to stress and that she’d always love me either way. Back in the city beneath a tangle of fire escapes, I saw the shooting star’s unmistakable comet tail. I checked my mailbox. Thick envelope. Official Cambridge crest. I sat down on the floor, tore it open, and wept. Next autumn my real life would finally begin. It was all happening. I’d done it. Suddenly I had a free spring and summer ahead of me to murder in cold blood. The booming beauty of Cambridge wrecked me so exquisitely that first autumn. Stars, balls, river bridges! White lies, black tie, after-dinner port! Fumbling with bike locks, library books and brass doorknobs in mittens! The apple tree where Isaac Newton discovered gravity (legend) and the statue of Plato that Lord Byron dressed up in drag for a prank (fact). Everything at Cambridge drums up a priceless historical significance; it should belong in a museum, really. But the true magic of Cambridge is that – for three years – all of this belongs to you. You’re waking up in castles each day until you eventually forget who you are. Whenever people complain that I write too much about Cambridge – or even Exeter – that I just can’t let it go, HISTORY OF A SCA MMER 2016 Five hundred t hous d doll ars 500000 2014 2012 Calloway is a student at NYU. She joins Instagram and makes an account called Adventuregrams. 2016 Calloway reaches 200,000 followers on Instagram. 2013 Calloway is accepted to Cambridge university and moves to England. She starts posting long Instagram captions about her life there. Calloway secures a $US500,000 book deal with Flatiron Books for a memoir titled And We Were Like. 2015 Calloway signs with literary agent Byrd Leavell. 2 017 Calloway announces the book deal is over because the proposed novel is too focused on her love life. She tells her followers she owes the publishers $US100,000 for the advance that was already paid to her. 2018 Calloway moves back to New York and announces a global creativity workshop tour to pay back the money.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CASEY BROOKE LAWSON; GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF CAROLINE CALLOWAY. ADDITIONAL WORDS BY TENEAL ZUVELA. I always think, wow! If they’re this angry now … Just wait until I’m 50 and still talking about it. For many years I wondered if the mortifying emails I sent to journalists during my sophomore autumn at Cambridge would one day swarm into the scandal that finally brought me down – the dark and dreaded menace that’d been haunting me since I’d stared into the flames at Exeter. But nope. It’d be worse. Worse than, “To whom it may concern, My name is Caroline Calloway and perhaps you want to do journalism about how I’m studying at the renowned and illustrious Cambridge University, but also have half-a-million Instagram followers”? A hellscape of pomp and cringe, but what else to say? In the winter of 2014 and the spring of 2015, online culture was still an emerging beat. Newspapers didn’t have designated reporters covering it. “Tech and influencer freelance writer” was not yet a valid Twitter bio. Instead, I had to google “Kylie Jenner Snapchat” and see which journalists were among the first to translate social media posts into news. I was always tired and always awake, thanks to Adderall. I was also as popular as I’d ever be at college. I’d wrangled the creamiest pale-yellow dorm room for my second year. It’s a long story but my own college – St Edmund’s – was built during a period of intergalactic peace and I much preferred to live at Downing College, which was a cluster of fluted Ionic columns and Georgian villas straight out of Bridgerton. I had a 2019 Two $US165 workshops go ahead in New York before the rest are cancelled. Attendees claim the workshops are disorganised and overpriced. Calloway is called a scammer for the first time. tiled fireplace in my room and a piano I couldn’t play that the college paid to keep in tune. There, I threw parties so raucous that more than one friend called me “The Gatsby of Cambridge,” which is what I’d like on my tombstone, thanks! After everyone went stumbling home from my parties to sleep or fuck or read books relevant to their degrees, I’d sit alone among the reeking plastic champagne flutes. There, I’d scour Google for journalists to whom I could pitch myself so violently it felt physical. In the spring of 2015, The Daily Mail became the first publication to print the name “Caroline Calloway”. They presented me not as a writer but as a ditsy, oversharing American trying to find a husband. Could you ever imagine an up-and-coming young male writer making a name for himself online being portrayed as attending Cambridge university to find a wife? Even “oversharing” is a sexist verb used to demean women memoirists the same way “emasculating” has no female equivalent. “Self-obsessed attention-whore, other women will think, even as they click on you” If you’ve never had a scandal before, continue to have none. If you’ve had one scandal, then begin having as many as you can. This way, each bad news item about you becomes a 2019 2021 Natalie Beach publishes an essay titled “I Was Caroline Calloway” on the website The Cut, where she accuses Calloway of being a bad friend and claims to be the ghostwriter of Calloway’s early Instagram captions. Calloway begins selling a homemade skincare product she calls “Snake Oil” for $US75 a bottle. smaller pie-slice of your public identity. The collective memory for pop-culture fatigues so fast. It’s the Kardashian, Trumpian principle of information entropy and overload. One scandal will define you, but a million little scandals add up to a helpless shrug. If you’re a man, you will be hailed a renegade media mastermind. If you’re a woman, people will pity your soulless addiction to fame. How sad and out-of-control you are, throwing yourself into the news cycle again and again. Will you ever master this compulsion to overshare? Maybe it is clinical malignant narcissism – needing attention even at the cost of more controversy? It doesn’t matter if you say to reporters, on podcasts, in your own fucking writing, “Listen! Part of the art I want to make is a kind of theatre of the self and of the internet! I talk about myself because I’m a memoirist! Stop pathologising my command of craft!” Self-obsessed attention-whore, other women will think, even as they click on you. Just as I would them. It’s too late for us. We’ve already drunk the poison like fish because the patriarchy is an ocean and its hate is the water we swim through every day just trying to exist. But, who knows, maybe our daughters’ daughters will get it right. Maybe they’ll really like this book, my body of work, me. This is an edited extract from Scammer by Caroline Calloway ($US65, carolinecalloway.com). 2020 Calloway creates an OnlyFans account and starts making what she describes as “softcore cerebral porn”. 2023 2022 Calloway deletes all of her posts and disappears from Instagram. Calloway returns to Instagram with the news she has published her first memoir, Scammer. marieclaire.com.au | 83
DROWNING in DUPES As influencer and TikTok culture pushed products to cult status, the dupe (short for duplicate) craze was born. It started as an attempt to find alternatives that were cheaper, or at least available. But today, dupes have taken over the originals, proving shoppers will buy anything – except the real thing. By Sangeeta Singh-Kurtz
FA SH I ON I n retrospect, the mirror was always ridiculous. Bordered in faux gold and crowned with baroque molding, Anthropologie’s Gleaming Primrose Mirror is 2.1 metres tall and costs $US1,600. And yet the moment I saw it on TikTok, I was possessed by the overwhelming urge to own it immediately. I couldn’t afford the real thing, so I followed one commenter’s advice and searched for a dupe – a cheaper alternative that should, in theory, look as good as the original for a fraction of the price. A brief search on TikTok revealed dozens of Gleaming Primrose dupes. The most popular video recommended one for $150 (all prices are in US dollars), but it was sold out. I kept scrolling. Overstock dupe? Also gone. Ikea’s wouldn’t arrive until December. Another version was $175 without molding (so just a regular mirror?). An influencer sent me to Amazon, where the mirror was available for $125.99. I was about to check out when I realised the item in my cart was 3cm tall – a creepy little dollhouse mirror! Other videos suggested I make the mirror for $20 before I was lobbed back to Amazon, where I finally bought a dupe from the affiliate page of someone named Juliana, who has 2 million followers. It was $100 and arrived last week. It’s the wrong size and looks awful. The glass is distorted, and when I stand in front of it I look like I’m in a fun house. Not too long ago, my search might have been successful, back when dupe was still a catch-all term for moneysaving product recommendations. On TikTok, the hashtag and its mutations – doupe, doup, doop, give or take a few vowels – have amassed billions of views, comments and likes. Influencers have built enormous followings shilling dupe recommendations in every product category, from makeup to electronics to food, and when a dupe goes viral, both it and the original product often Today, the dupe itself is more valuable than the original sell out. But as dupes have taken on a life of their own, all sense of what makes a good one seems to have been lost. Today, the dupe itself is more valuable than the original, and the quality alternatives have been eclipsed by a tsunami of trash. This is Peak Dupe, when the basic rules of spending and quality no longer apply. When the word dupe emerged from the cosmetics world in the early 2000s, it just meant duplicate. There were far fewer cosmetic brands then, and people wanted products that resembled sold-out, limited-edition or discontinued products from MAC, which was the brand everyone was buying at the time. Dupe as a term “just kind of caught on”, says Christine Mielke, a longtime beauty influencer and founder of Temptalia, a beauty-product review site that’s been curating a “dupe list” for the past 13 years. The definition of dupe as a cheaper alternative came a little later, around the 2008 recession. “People would say, ‘If you can’t afford the MAC 239 brush, get the Sigma 239 brush,’ ” Mielke says. When the first wave of beauty YouTubers in the 2010s started making tutorials, they made accompanying dupe videos, too. It wasn’t long before the concept caught on more broadly. One former influencer remembers marieclaire.com.au | 85
SEEING DOUBLE The marie claire team reveal their favourite dupe scores Lululemon’s $100 Align leggings, released in 2015, as the first noncosmetic item to get widely duped. Soon, dupes took over clothing, shoes, and home goods – items without ingredient lists. It’s easy to procure dupes of some luxury products, such as the globular Bottega Veneta earrings. Other dupes, like super-fake designer handbags, take some know-how or – if you’re OK with a crappy copy – an understanding of how online marketplaces like DHgate.com work. Of course, many of these dupes are just knockoffs, though no-one wants to call them that. The term dupe “has less negative emotional baggage than ‘counterfeit’ or ‘knockoff ’ even though the word encapsulates counterfeit goods and products that look like other products”, an IP lawyer tells me. As another lawyer put it: “Nobody wants to be like, ‘Yeah, I got this awesome knockoff.’ But ‘I got this great dupe’ – you sound savvy.” What’s weirder is that now there are knockoffs of knockoffs. Ostensibly, the dupe shopper’s goal is to save money on expensive products, but scrolling through the hashtag on TikTok, most dupes are for products that rarely surpass $100. The most commonly duped products are from mid-range brands such as Skims, Aritzia and Lululemon. Many duped items are totally banal, like cleaning sponges or toilet paper. Lots of dupes don’t even save you money, or only a couple bucks. Some are even more expensive than the original, including a Revlon dupe of a MAC lip liner, a LaCroix dupe, and ones for Bath & Body Works candles. There is a whole corner of TikTok devoted to “fast-food dupes”, where users buy and prepare groceries, a more expensive, laborious and time-intensive process than going through a drive-through. Sometimes there is a moral argument to help justify the price: the dupe is fur free, cruelty free or ethically made. Maybe it wants to free Palestine or is from a small brand that deserves your money – even if it’s more than the original, even if it doesn’t even look like the original! Such is the curious case of bootleg Nike sweatshirts, custom-embroidered 86 | marieclaire.com.au “There’s nothing better than a pigmented eyebrow pencil, but for a long time the high street didn’t cut it. The L’Oréal Paris Brow Artist Skinny Pencil reminds me of the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz. It’s $20 cheaper and makes for a great option when the Anastasia one is out of stock. Plus, it’s a lot nicer on the purse strings.” – Cassandra Green, senior writer “I’ve been eyeing the Hermès Oran sandals for an upcoming Europe trip (the ultimate ‘quiet luxury’ sandal), but at $1155 there’s not a chance in hell I can afford them and flights to Italy. Luckily, Nine West has a near-identical pair for $159.” – Alex Bruce-Smith, digital managing editor “After seeing Selena Gomez’s Retrofête alphabet earrings, I was influenced. I was ready to pay $181 (per earring), only to be waitlisted for two months. I turned to TikTok, where I discovered a world of sparkly dupes. I went with the identical Etsy option, which cost $30 and no wait time.” – Samantha Stewart, fashion features and lifestyle editor “Countless TikToks were singing the praises of the Skims classic tee, and I knew I needed it. Unfortunately the tee is so popular, I spent six months on a waitlist until my savvy shopper best friend pointed me in the direction of Glassons, where they stock a replica. Bonus – it was quite a bit cheaper too.” – Bree Player, features editor items that use bastardised branding, take months to ship and run customers over $70 apiece. Ultimately, just deeming something a dupe seems to generate demand, even if no-one can really agree on what a dupe is. “I found the best dupe” is the standard opening line of millions of dupe videos on TikTok. Delivered in a conspiratorial tone, the phrase suggests that there is some special science behind the dupe-hunting process. Emily Wainwright, an interior-design influencer, is often asked to find dupes for Restoration Hardware products, a US brand famous for its Cloud Sofa, a $6,000 down-filled couch owned by Kylie Jenner and several popular YouTubers. Wainwright uses Google: “I’ll type the name into Google Shopping, then I’ll go to the shopping tab, and then I’m kind of sifting through page after page.” If something looks like a close match, she’ll click in. This will take her to more tabs, which she’ll comb through until she finds a close enough match. Then she’ll read reviews and check things like colour, dimensions and materials. Because many furniture stores buy their products wholesale, she can even check whether the dupe is made by the same company as the original. “It’s time-consuming,” she says,
GETTY IMAGES. THIS STORY ORIGINALLY RAN IN THECUT.COM.. FA SH I ON “but it’s really just persistence.” The whole process takes about 15 minutes. For Sarah Adekola, finding a dupe “literally takes less than ten seconds.” “Most platforms – ASOS, Zara or Amazon – have a reverse imagesearch. It’s a little camera icon. You can upload a screenshot of any luxury product and these platforms are going to search across their products to find you a match,” she says. In other words, the platform finds the dupe for you, and just about anyone with a computer and the patience to scroll can find a good dupe. They don’t need an influencer, but maybe they just want to be influenced. Although Adekola is a finance influencer, she’s pivoting to style to share her dupe-hunting methods. “People are like, ‘Oh, do more content on this.’” Most dupes that people tout as smart buys on TikTok are just random things they find on Amazon. The company has an affiliate scheme that encourages influencers to plug Amazon products on their socials and direct audiences to their Amazon Storefront to buy those things. When someone buys, the influencer gets a cut. “I’m always sceptical when I see #ad, #sponsored,” says an influencer who recently shuttered their Amazon Storefront. “Now everyone is just taking sponsorships to make money and forgetting about their audience.” Many dupes are just knockoffs, though no-one wants to call them that It’s no wonder that when a product goes viral, you’ll suddenly see 50 different content creators telling you to stop what you’re doing and buy this dupe – from their Amazon Storefront, from which they earn a commission, or from this website, from which they earn a commission. Don’t walk – RUN are the words superimposed on thousands of videos. The urgency works. “The products are almost always shitty,” my 22-year-old sister-in-law said when I asked her about shopping Amazon Storefronts. “But you always buy. You always get influenced.” Now even mainstream brands are embracing dupes. L’Oréal recently tapped multiple sets of twin influencers (get it?) to make ads for one of its shampoos, a dupe for a “high-end” item that looks just like one of Olaplex’s. In January, the official Whole Foods TikTok posted a #DupeAlert video about the “dupe snacks” it sells: organic and gluten-free versions of Oreos and Coca-Cola. Last month, Lululemon invited customers to a “dupe swap”, where they could trade in their copycat leggings – that is, a “qualifying dupe product” – for a pair of real ones. “We saw it as a really fun way to play into something that is a real part of our culture,” Lululemon’s chief brand officer told CNN, “but in a way that really puts the focus back on the original.” My experience with the Gleaming Primrose Mirror wasn’t unique. There are now dupes of dupes of dupes: a Shein dupe is a Zara dupe is an Aritzia dupe is a Jenni Kayne dupe is a Khaite dupe. The gulf between the Shein item and the Khaite one is gigantic, so much so that the idea of a dupe has become a joke. Someone on TikTok holds up a crappy Kmart purse: “Prada doooooupe,” they’ll cry, pronouncing the word in a ridiculous accent, dissolving into giggles. The beach, dogs and gel pens are therapy dupes. The backlash to this meme is already under way. “The dupe jokes r not funny anymore,” wrote one influencer. “I find this trend super annoying,” wrote another. People seem sick of dupes more generally; there’s a nascent “anti-dupe” movement on TikTok, where some influencers are urging their followers to just buy the original. “Don’t get me wrong, I love a good dupe. Don’t come for me. But ...” one user explains in a recent video. “I spent more time and money on trying to find the most perfect dupe than I did if I were to just buy the real thing.”
Donald Trump’s rise emboldened many right-wing women.
S O CI E TY The rise of alt-right female influencers There is an insidious and rapidly growing movement of alt-right women making extremism relatable on social media. They share tips on how to propagate a more conservative world and rally women to dismantle feminism. marie claire reports T oxic femininity is real!” says a steely-eyed woman dressed in a black lace top and bright red lipstick with a red rose tucked behind her ear, the artificial background in her video strewn with flowers and frilly lampshades. The woman is Daisy Cousens and she’s one of the leading lights in the female alt-right influencer movement in Australia. She has more than 200,000 subscribers on YouTube, posting regular videos with names like “Why pretty women should NEVER be feminists” and “Leftism makes young women MISERABLE!” Cousens, who occasionally works as a mainstream journalist and holds views that are very conservative but not extreme, is one of a growing number of female influencers who have recently become players in various conservative – or at the end of the spectrum, far-right extremist – movements around the world, a sphere traditionally dominated by men. These women come in various guises. Some, like Cousens, could just be called deeply conservative rather than extremist. But others, such as Americans Lana Lokteff and Hannah Pearl Davis, front media channels that attack everything from feminism and immigration to transgenderism and vaccines. Yet more have transitioned their views into the political sphere, such as Islamophobic activist Laura Loomer, who secured the Republican nomination for a seat in Florida in 2020 and is now reportedly being courted by Donald Trump for his 2024 White House campaign. And others, almost too numerous to count, are adorned with blonde braids and floral milkmaid frocks, and adhere to the “trad wife” movement, an Instagramfriendly trend that ostensibly promotes 1950s-style patriarchal family values, but at its most extreme dovetails with hard-right political dogma. “Women are crucial to spreading ideology with a smile and making it seem palatable,” Seyward Darby, author of Sisters in Hate, told Vice World News. “It’s about putting a gloss on it.” There’s no clear data about how many women are players in what can loosely be called the far right or alt right, not least because the movement “Women are crucial to spreading ideology with a smile and making it seem palatable” – Seyward Darby, author of Sisters in Hate Australian Daisy Cousens’ views are attractive to many conservatives. itself is so fractured and segmented (it’s made up of everything from armed militia like the Oath Keepers, hate groups like the Proud Boys and Christian nationalists, QAnon conspiracy theorists and various shades of racists, sexists and homophobes, to traditionalists who hold extreme regressive views in terms of gender and race politics). At the pointy end of the spectrum, we do know that far-right terrorism itself is increasingly a threat globally. Data from the 2019 Global Terrorism Index found a 320 per cent increase in marieclaire.com.au | 89
SO CIETY Female Trump supporters celebrate in Washington, DC, after his inauguration in January 2017. RIGHT Former Miss Hitler pageant entrant Alice Cutter. violent activities undertaken in the name of far-right beliefs in the West in the five years leading up to 2018. In Australia, ASIO has reported increasing far-right threat activity for several years. But although women are beginning to show up more regularly at real-world manifestations of far-right activity – a number were at the heart of the January 6 Capitol riots following Donald Trump’s electoral defeat in 2022 – their sharpest weapon tends not to be a sword or knife, but the internet. In the age of selfies, likes and followers, women are playing an increasingly prominent role in amplifying and broadcasting the farright’s messages, and doing it in a way that makes them look more attractive, to both women and men. “Although I think women are too emotional for leading roles in politics, this is the time for female nationalists to be loud,” Lana Lokteff told a rally in Sweden shortly after Trump took office in 2017. “Why? Men. Women have a special power to inspire and motivate men.” Later, she added coyly, “I guess, to be really edgy, it was women that got Hitler elected.” J ulia Ebner is a research fellow at the Institute for Strategic Dialogue, and with Jacob Davey wrote the paper “How Women Advance the Internationalization of the Far-Right”. “As the spectre of internationalised right-wing extremists continues to grow, the success of women in the virtual sphere becomes particularly problematic,” they wrote. “These broadcasters [are] often serving as a soft introduction to hard-edge ideology, facilitating the ‘red-pilling’ [meaning a political awakening] of individuals who are vulnerable to radicalisation.” In 2016, one seismic – and very visual – event seemed to turn the tables Nazi imagery is popular among some extremist groups, but not supporters of trad wife values (pictured right). on the idea that women were merely bystanders in the world of the far right. British neo-Nazi youth group National Action organised a Miss Hitler pageant, where classically attractive white women were paraded as though in a beauty competition and asked to elaborate on their racist views. “Many comment that they see women at our demonstrations but … they rarely get much spotlight or recognition,” organisers said beforehand. “We organised this competition to give our girls a chance to express their beliefs and share their motivations for embracing National Socialism.” And embrace it they did. The eventual winner, a Scottish woman whose identity was concealed, shared her anti-Semitic views with the audience and declared that if she could kill anyone on earth it would be former German Chancellor Angela Merkel, because of her support for refugees. If you trawl back through far-right archives on the internet, the year 2016 “These broadcasters [are] often serving as a soft introduction to hard-edge ideology” ¸ója^V;WcZg"gZhZVgX][ZaadlVii]Z ?chi^ijiZ[dgIigViZ\^X:^Vad\jZ seemed to be a turning point for women emerging on the far right. This was the year that right-wing fringe thinking as a whole was granted a brand new legitimacy with the US presidential nomination and eventual victory of the openly xenophobic champion of the alt-right, Donald Trump. A post from that era on the juggernaut white nationalist message board Stormfront has women wondering how they can recruit more of their own into the fold. “When I look at people from a White Pride event I don’t see very attractive people; it’s mostly overweight bald guys,” reads one message from 2016. “I would rather go to a White Pride event and see people looking like Taylor Swift. If we strive as a group to [look] our best then women will want to join.” Another respondent adds, “I think a gentle approach is best. While it’s easy to get up in arms and take a more aggressive approach, you’d have a higher chance of success if you were to do something like holding workshops to the tune of ‘Young women – enjoy your European heritage and explore the culture and crafts of your people.’” That suggested workshop name would work perfectly as an overarching slogan for the “trad wife” movement, which, at its most sinister apex, is the precise example of the “gentle approach” to leading people into white supremacy advocated by that
PHOTOGRAPHY BY AAP; GETTY IMAGES; YOUTUBE; @LACEYLAURENLYNN/INSTAGRAM. WORDS BY ALICE WHITING. FROM LEFT Laura Loomer; and a tweet from Lacey Lynn (below left). Stormfront poster. Trad wives, which is believed to have begun around 2013 on an old internet forum called “Red Pill Women”, can be found in all corners of the internet. They advocate living according to traditional gender roles: a man working out of the home to support his family, while the wife takes care of the children and household. Their aesthetic (trad wives are almost always white, often blonde, and favour WWII-era hairstyles and dirndl dresses) and attitude hark back to the Kinder, Küche, Kirche (“children, kitchen, church”) doctrine popular in Germany from the late 19th century. T o be clear, many women who call themselves trad wives advocate for nothing more alarming than bread baking or popping on lippy before their husbands get home from work. There’s nothing wrong with dressing conservatively or reverting to prefeminist gender roles, if that’s what a woman chooses to do. But Dr Kristy Campion, senior lecturer in terrorism studies at Charles Sturt University, says matters become concerning when trad wives begin amplifying the political views of the far-right, giving them a sheen of authenticity. “These women often support anti-feminism, which is also championed by the men of the movements,” says Campion. “That gives [men] reinforcement or validation.” And it may not stop with antifeminism. “You also see them being “The dark marketing tactics of terrorism is something scholars have talked about for decades” – Dr Kristy Campion, senior lecturer in terrorism studies quite homophobic and transphobic,” says Campion. “They may use their Christian values to reject the teaching of gender identity in school. They tend to present themselves as the protectors of children.” A far-right trad wife called Lacey Lynn recently demonstrated that her commitment to submission has waded into the realm of violence, tweeting there is “no such thing as marital rape”, adding that “marriage is consent.” The trad-wife movement also produced the “white baby challenge”, which began when white nationalist Ayla Stewart, known online as Wife with a Purpose, declared, “As a mother of six, I challenge families to have as many white babies as I have contributed.” More white babies, fewer of any other, the theory goes. Creating a permissive environment for these views is what concerns terrorism experts like Campion. The rhetoric is partly about pointing to others (immigrants, Jews, Indigenous Australians, LGBTQ people, etc) and blaming them for your problems, but it’s also about presenting an attractive, almost utopian vision of an alternative. “[Far-right influencers] provide this set of behavioural norms so people who are feeling lost, alienated or hopeless can absorb it and create what we call ‘identity certainty’,” says Campion. “For people who feel that the modern world is out of control, or never know where they stand, that can have a really powerful effect on their involvement in a movement.” Once you strive to live in that paradise – one that is, of course, largely a fantasy curated for social media – you begin accepting new standards of morality. And, in extreme cases, that morality legitimises violence against your enemies. “It’s something that terrorism scholars have talked about for decades – the dark marketing tactics of terrorism,” says Campion. “It’s not just about violent imagery, it’s also about nostalgic and romanticised visions.” The remedies to the amplification of far-right views online are anything but straightforward. For a while, various social media companies blocked or banned many of the loudest proponents on mainstream platforms, but anyone with a few basic googling skills could still track them down on their own platforms or alt-right social sites like Parler, Gab or Truth Social. Today, under the leadership of Elon Musk, Twitter – now X – has walked back its censorship of these individuals and groups, giving them a fertile field in which to recruit members. But his wholesale embrace of their unpalatable messages is making it far harder for him to monetise the platform. From a policing perspective, while authorities have increased monitoring of far-right groups, Campion says little can be done unless an individual or group makes credible threats or uses language that directly incites terrorism or violence. Urging women to make more white babies or reject feminism in favour of cooking for your husband doesn’t exactly meet the threshold. But what is crucial is that law enforcement, citizens and even parents should remain vigilant about the reality that extremism isn’t limited to one gender. “Women and girls get involved for the same reasons as men and boys,” says Campion. They may just be hiding it behind lipstick and a freshly baked cake. marieclaire.com.au | 91
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C U LT U R E V IN G A M OMEN HA YO U R F I X O F F I L M , M U S I C , A R T & B O O K S ARIANA Greenblatt T There’s a long-held tradition in the Greenblatt household. Whenever Ariana lands a new role, a room in her family home in Colorado is transformed into the theme of the project. “When I found out I had got the part in Greta Gerwig’s Barbie, I came home from school to the sound of Aqua’s “Barbie Girl” playing,” she recalls. “Mom had decorated the whole room in a Barbie theme, complete with a pink cake.” Taking on the role of Sasha in the hotly anticipated fantasy comedy, Ariana plays the human daughter of Gloria (America Ferrera). “Going to work every day on the set of Barbie’s dream house was incredible,” says the actor. “We’d blast ’90s music in the morning and Michael Cera [who plays Allan] and I would challenge each other at Wordle. He’s a genius and beat me every time. Margot [Robbie, who plays Barbie] is like my older sister. I still text her with updates on all my high school gossip.” Having a megastar on speed dial might seem like it would secure you bragging rights among your peers, but hanging with Hollywood icons is second nature to the teenager. Earlier this year, Ariana starred alongside Adam Driver in the film 65, and with Cate Blanchett and Kevin Hart in Borderlands, out early next year. With a hit film under her belt, Ariana has her sights set on a new goal this year: gaining her driver licence. But once she passes, a Barbie convertible isn’t on her wish list. “My dream car is a matte black Dodge Challenger because my favourite singer of all time, Billie Eilish, has one,” she says. “I want to follow in her lane.” W AT C H Barbie is in cinemas now. GUTTER CREDIT The 15-year-old American actor has taken on the biggest film of the year
CU LT U RE A little bit ANNIE Schitt’s Creek star Annie Murphy dives into mermaids, deepfakes and comfort viewing It’s been three years since Schitt’s Creek wrapped. Where do you think your character Alexis would be now? Based on her past adventures, which are so expansive and colourful, she could literally be anywhere. If there were an opportunity for you to play Alexis again, would you? Of course I would! It was the most special time in my life. I had so much fun playing that character. The cast are all such dear friends. It would be a dream. But Alexis isn’t getting any younger. No-one wants to see a woman in her late sixties teetering around in high heels. I mean, of course there are women in their late sixties who can rock stilettos, but I won’t be one of them. So we need to get on with it if there’s going to be a reboot. When fans meet you in the street what’s the most common thing they say to you? Post-pandemic so many people, myself included, had a really rough time with their happiness and their mental health. I think the thing I hear most commonly, which is the most special, is that the show helped them get through some tough times and I know how important those shows can be. For me, that show is The Office. When I’m feeling low I put it on and feel comforted and like I’m watching my friends and everything’s going to be OK or a little bit better. To find out that Schitt’s Creek has become one of those shows for people means a lot. You play a mermaid in Ruby Gillman, Teenage Kraken. Was that a childhood dream come true? I spent a lot of my childhood willing myself to be a mermaid and unfortunately it didn’t take. So this was the second-best thing. It was surprisingly juicy and fulfilling playing an evil character. Black Mirror has such a passionate fan base. What was your reaction when you first read the script for your “Joan is Awful” episode? When I read the script, my jaw kept dropping and dropping and dropping. Then I got to the end of the episode, and immediately turned back to page one so I could start wrapping my brain around what was happening because it’s a real mindfuck of an episode. The episode comments on AI and the use of deepfake technology. How familiar were you with deepfakes? Charlie [Brooker, the series creator] usually has his finger on the pulse but when the episode dropped it couldn’t have been more timely, with AI snowballing at this terrifying rate and the writers’ strike going on in the US. Murphy (with co-star Catherine O’Hara, right) in Schitt’s Creek. “IT WAS SURPRISINGLY JUICY AND FULFILLING PLAYING AN EVIL CHARACTER” Writers are currently asking that their jobs not be replaced by computers, and that the computers not be trained using their work. It’s like it is a crazy thing to say out loud. I just read an article that said that 80 per cent of old jobs are easily replaceable by AI. I hope that the Black Mirror episode can spark some conversation about the potential deeply negative repercussions of what happens if we don’t check ourselves quickly. Are there any Easter eggs in the episode that were missed? I’m wearing a Boney M. T-shirt. [They] appear later in the season. What’s a role you’d like to play next? I’d love to do a beautiful period piece, where I’m walking along the sea in a black dress mourning the loss of my last partner. – by Harriet Sim Ruby Gillman, Teenage Kraken is in cinemas September 14. marieclaire.com.au | 95
BOOK CLUB Translated into 42 languages, Isabel Allende novels are a global treasure. Here are the tableside tomes that shaped her work M Y FAVO U R I T E VILLAIN DR ACUL A – BRAM STOKER “Dracula is the perfect villain because he is terrifying but can’t help himself; he has to kill to live. He is seductive, cruel, the prince of darkness.” T E E N AG E OBSESSION ONE THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS – ANTOINE GALLAND “This novel revealed to me the infinite possibilities of fantasy, eroticism and storytelling.” The HIT LIST THE BOOK I WISH I COULD READ AG A I N F O R T H E FIRST TIME ONE HUNDRED YE AR S OF SOLITUDE – GABRIEL GARCÍA MÁRQUEZ “One of the best novels ever written, a classic. I plunged into the crazy, magical universe of the novel with such joy!” You’ve written nearly 30 novels. What character do you resonate the most with? Strong women. They are always the protagonists in my novels. What do you love about writing historical fiction? The research about a time, a place and an event gives me half of the book. That makes my job much easier. Where is your favourite place to read? A couch in the living room for hardbacks, the car for audiobooks, and my Kindle on aeroplanes. Where is your favourite place to write? My “casita” (little house). That’s a coach house where I have my office. What’s been the most challenging moment in your career so far? I don’t know. Writing is not a career, it’s a lifestyle. You once said that you’ve “never been scared of being alone”. What frightens you? Dementia. Allende’s latest book is The Wind Knows My Name (Penguin, $35). Indulge your ears, eyes and soul in these culture-defining moments Guts Red, White & Royal Blue OLIVIA RODRIGO PRIME VIDEO SYDNEY LYRIC THEATRE If her punk-pop debut album Sour was the break-up album you didn’t know you needed, her sophomore album Guts is the remedy to any romantic rebound. Out September 8. The coronation hype might have fizzled but don’t put away your monarchy merch just yet. The anticipated LGBT rom-com series came out on August 11. Binge it now! Journey down the yellow brick road and discover the untold story of the witches of Oz, as the cult musical Wicked returns this month. Visit wickedthemusical.com.au. 96 | marieclaire.com.au Wicked The Musical PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIZIANO LUGLI; LORI BARRA; JONATHAN PRIME; TAYLOR MILLER/CONTOUR RA BY GETTY IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES. WORDS BY HARRIET SIM. ... WITH ISABEL ALLENDE
CU LT U RE “I WAS VERY SELF-DESTRUCTIVE. I WAS LUCKY TO FIND ACTING BECAUSE IT WAS VERY LIBERATING” OF T H E M AN MO NTH DAVID HARBOUR Everyone’s favourite TV cop talks to James Mottram about fast cars, Hopper’s future in Stranger Things and life with Lily Allen Your wife, Lily Allen, is on the London stage right now in The Pillowman. Were you there on opening night? I wish. Her girls had to finish school. And so I was with them in New York. I did get to take one of them to a Taylor Swift concert, which is pretty exciting for both of us! So I’ve been playing single dad in New York. Would you ever act with Lily? I don’t know. I mean, I really like what she’s doing. But I do find that acting brings a certain energy to the people involved. In general, acting is about conflict and drama. So some of that energy has to be inherent to the relationship. And I don’t know if I want to bring that into my personal life. In fact, a lot of my working relationships have somewhat of a distance. And that’s conscious because I want the drama to be able to be as free and as real as possible. And I do feel like, with Lily, if something was very real in a scene, it might hurt her feelings and I don’t really want to do that. In your new film Gran Turismo, you play racing driver coach Jack Salter. What was the big appeal? The script reminded me a lot of this movie I grew up with as a kid and I love so much: Hoosiers [from 1986]. It’s got that real classic sports feel to it, this euphoric underdog story. Are you a fast driver? I’m not that into speed, to be honest. Big machines that are fast ... they kind of scare me. We shot a lot in Atlanta and that highway in Atlanta – getting on and off that – just terrifies me. I’m not one of those people who weaves in and out of traffic. I like to stay in the second slowest lane and just cruise along. In the film, players of the video game can join an academy to become real race drivers. If you could set up your own academy, what would it be? Occasionally I think to myself that I’d like to teach acting workshops. So I guess I could have the acting academy where I yell at students and get them to stay on the line and not commit! In the past, you’ve talked about facing alcoholism. Do you feel acting saved you? Absolutely. I mean, I was very self-destructive ... I was lucky to find acting because it was very liberating. And it continues to be very liberating. Right now is a time when I’m unable to work because of the strikes. And I find it very difficult actually to exist in the world without this release. How do you feel about the phenomenon that TV series Stranger Things has become? I do feel somewhat that Stranger Things and [my character] Hopper ... they are things that we’ve done and we’ve given them to you. And now you have your own experience of them and create your own world. It surprises me how enormous it has become. But it does seem to have taken on a life of its own that barely involves me anymore. Could you see yourself playing Hopper for years to come? We’ll see if he survives season five! He might wind up with Jessica Fletcher in Murder, He Wrote or something – a show where he’s off solving crimes. I’ll pitch it to Netflix! Gran Turismo is in cinemas now.
HARVEY NORMAN PRESENTS Coffee culture Pre-program up to six drinks, then make them straight from the touchscreen. How do you have your coffee? Any way you like when you can be your own barista. M I L K Y O U R W AY Create barista-quality silky milk coffees for every taste with Breville’s Auto MilQ feature. Boasting smarter tech, the new alternative milk settings for soy, oat, almond and dairy milk will calibrate temperature and air injection time for your favourite milk, to deliver perfectly textured microfoam. It also features an auto purge steam wand for easy cleaning. S T E P - B Y- S T E P B A R I S TA GUIDANCE The Barista Touch Impress features simple step-by-step guidance that lets you select from eight pre-set coffees or program six custom coffees of your own. Plus, Breville's Impress Puck System with automatic dosing and assisted tamp makes every brew a breeze. Breville The Barista Touch TM Impress Coffee Machine, BES881SST2JAN1, $1999. Stainless Steel BES881BSS2IAN1 HARVEYNORMAN.COM. AU online / mobile / instore Matte Black BES881BTR2IAN1
RECIPES Espresso Crème Caramel with Cacao Nib Praline; Boozy Spanish Coffee with Almond milk Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes
Have it your way from short blacks to espresso martinis. RECIPES Mille Feuille with Espresso Creme Patissiere and Berries; Ginspresso Martini Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes
Smart and sweet Enjoy even the most exotic coffee concoctions at home with the latest features at your fingertips. SWEET FOAM FUNCTION The stylish Jura J8 is packed with clever technology to effortlessly deliver 31 specialty coffee recipes. Savour perfectly flavoured coffee with the innovative Sweet Foam function which infuses milk foam with syrup during preparation to deliver your preferred sweetness, taste and texture. SMART CUP SENSOR The J8’s Coffee Eye integrated sensor detects your cup’s position and adapts the choices available on the display for a super-simple user experience. Smart grinding and dosing ensure consistency to enhance flavour and adapt the intensity to your palate. Jura J8MIDNIGHTSIL, J8 Automatic Coffee Machine, $3499. Also available: Jura 24265, Cool Control 1L G2 Milk Cooler, $379. HARVEYNORMAN.COM. AU online / mobile / instore
Explore new tastes Some like it hot, others over ice. Have the best of both worlds, pronto! Access over 100 creative recipes on the Coffee Link app to take your coffee game to the next level. COLD EXTRACTION TECHNOLOGY Enjoy the refreshing Cold Brew function on the De'Longhi Eletta Explore. In under five minutes, it delivers that cool, smooth flavour you crave thanks to a unique pump system that uses ambient water temperature, and infuses the coffee under low pressure, so you can make the most of a variety of iced coffee recipes. 50+ CAFÉ STYLE RECIPES Indulge your every coffee mood with more than 50 hot and cold drinks at a tap of the user-friendly touchscreen. Or connect remotely with the Coffee Link app to adapt your flavour extraction, discover new recipes and access exclusive content. De'Longhi ECAM45086T, Eletta Explore Automatic Coffee Machine, $1799. HARVEYNORMAN.COM. AU online / mobile / instore
RECIPES Coffee-Infused Madeleines with Rose and Pistachios; White Chocolate Macadamia Affogato Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes
RECIPES Coffee and Hazelnut New York Cheesecake with Caramelised Espresso Syrup; Iced Mocha with Whipped Baileys Cream Find the recipes at hn.com.au/recipes
Creative coffee, crafted at home Enjoy café-style coffee and create latte art masterpieces with perfectly textured milk, just the way you like it. Use the steam wand to create the perfect foamy base for your latte art. ONE-TOUCH BREWING TECHNOLOGY Offering the onetouch convenience and consistency of Nespresso’s signature capsule and the flexibility of a fully automatic steam wand, the Vertuo Creatista lets you craft a wide range of coffee recipes made for six cup sizes, from perfect piccolos to luscious lattes. No barista required. AN INFINITE NUMBER OF MILK COFFEE RECIPES Create silky, perfectly textured micro-foam hands-free milk with the assistance of both three custom milk texture and milk temperature settings, plus fast heat-up to facilitate your favourite coffee recipes. Nespresso BVE850BSS, Vertuo Creatista Capsule Coffee Machine by Breville, $1099. S H O P O N L I N E W I T H YO U R LO C A L S TO R E HN.COM. AU OR CALL 1300 464 278 Harvey Norman® stores are operated by independent franchisees. Promotion ends 23/09/2023.
R E ADE R EV EN T HAIR MASTERED EVENT Hair obsessed? Want to achieve your hair goals? Join us for a special event with marie claire and BEAUTY/crew. Hair Mastered, in partnership with OGX, promises to be a fun, informative and interactive day focused on all things hair. There will be two sessions, each offering the opportunity to have all your haircare and styling questions answered. You’ll also get to meet some of Australia’s leading beauty editors and hair experts, including marie claire beauty director Sally Hunwick, BEAUTY/crew editor Delaney Loane, celebrity hair expert Aimee Hershan and beauty expert Dominic Porras. They’ll be sharing advice on how to lift your haircare and styling game. You’ll also get a personalised haircare consultation when you settle into the chair for a touchup session at the OGX Styling Bar. All this pampering and expert advice will no doubt make you hungry, so we will also have refreshments, barista-made coffee, champagne and gourmet snacks at each session. Plus, everyone who attends will receive an exclusive gift bag valued at $250. Session places are limited so get booking to secure your place now. TI C K E T S $75pp + you’ll receive a gift bag valued at $250 Complimentary glass of champagne & gourmet snacks WHEN: Saturday September 16, 2023 WHERE: La Porte Space, 87/103 Epsom Rd, Rosebery NSW There are two sessions available to select from: SESSION 1: 10.00am – 12.30pm SESSION 2: 1.30pm – 4.00pm For further information: rsvp.marieclaire@aremedia.com.au THE PANELLISTS SALLY HUNWICK marie claire beauty director IG @sallyhunwick DELANEY LOANE BEAUTY/crew editor IG @delaneyloane DOMINIC OGX ambassador IG @dom.skii AIMEE HERSHAN Hair styling expert IG @amieehershan IN PARTNERSHIP WITH B O O K N O W ! OGXHAIRMASTERED.eventbrite.com.au or scan QR code
marieclaire.com.au | 107 PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE BENTLEY. STYLING BY NAOMI SMITH.
front & centre Australian model of the moment Georgina Burke showcases the season’s latest collections PHOTOGRAPHED BY HOLLY WARD STYLED BY NAOMI SMITH
OPPOSITE PAGE Sportmax jacket, $6445, world. sportmax.com; Nancy Ganz briefs, $59.95, nancyganz.com; Prada shoes, POA, prada.com. Thonet side table, at anibou.com.au. THIS PAGE Max Mara coat, $5975, maxmara.com.

OPPOSITE PAGE Chloé dress, $10,610, chloe.com. THIS PAGE Miu Miu jacket, $7000, top, $2650, stockings, $415, briefs and shoes, both POA, miumiu. com. Thonet chair, at anibou.com.au.
Valentino dress, and tie, both POA, valentino.com; Nancy Ganz briefs, $59.95, nancyganz. com.au; Miu Miu shoes, POA, miumiu.com.


OPPOSITE PAGE Prada jumper, $2370, and skirt, $21,000, prada.com; Miu Miu shoes, POA, miumiu.com. THIS PAGE H&M jumper, $100, hm.com; Prada shoes, POA, prada.com; stylist’s socks. Hair by Madison Voloshin/ Assembly Agency. Makeup by Isabella Schimid/ Assembly Agency. Model: Georgina Burke/ Be Frank Group. Production: Emily Gittany.
Chanel top, $22,130, shorts, $9940, stockings, $780, belt, $4720, shoes, $3030, bag, $9160, and earrings, $1900, 1300 242 635. OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel knit, $6830, skirt, $8560, boots, $4840, earrings, $1660, and necklace, $3860, 1300 242 635.
GARDEN PARTY Chanel’s historic house emblem, the camellia flower, is in full bloom for autumn/winter 2023 PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGES ANTONI STYLED BY JANA POKORNY
Chanel knit, $11,930, shorts, $8470, stockings, $780, boots, $3980, bag, $6570, and earrings, $3150, 1300 242 635. OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel vest, $8300, dress (underneath), $17,200, gloves, $2770, bag, $13,830, and earrings, $2060, 1300 242 635.

Chanel jacket, $9340, sunglasses, $900, earrings, $2560, and necklace, $2650, 1300 242 635. OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel jacket, $17,460, sunglasses, $900, and earrings, $2560, 1300 242 635.


OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel jumpsuit, $11,330, belt, $9110, earrings, $3150, and necklace, $3860, 1300 242 635. THIS PAGE Chanel jacket, $17,120, skirt, $7440, boots, $3980, bag, $9680, and earrings, $1310, 1300 242 635.
Chanel jacket, $16,600, skirt, $10,890, stockings, $780, boots, $3980, earrings, $1420, necklaces (from top), $3860 and $3940, and belt (worn as middle necklace), $9110, 1300 242 635. OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel dress, $6830, belts, (gold) $3980 and $4720, boots, $3980, and earrings, $2460, 1300 242 635. Photography by Georges Antoni/The Artist Group. Styling by Jana Pokorny/ Kaz Kingdon Productions. Hair by Kyye/AP-Reps. Makeup by Victoria Baron/ MAP. Models: Willow Jay/ Priscilla’s; Lily Rendall/ Vivien’s. Production: Robyn Fay-Perkins.

NOSTALG IA Blurring the boundaries between the past and the future, Gucci’s latest collection showcases a fresh take on layering and colour PHOTOGRAPHED BY HOLLY WARD STYLED BY NAOMI SMITH
OPPOSITE PAGE Gucci top, $2450, bra (underneath, sold as set with briefs), $1100, skirt, $4250, stockings, $530, belt, $1155, shoes, $1760, bag, $5720, and earrings (worn throughout), $2105, gucci.com. THIS PAGE Gucci top, $1100, bra and briefs (underneath, sold as set), $1100, skirt, $9250, shoes, $1760, and bag, $5325, gucci.com.
Gucci jumper, $1850, shirt (underneath), $1000, pants, $2050, belt, $1155, shoes, $1295, bag, $5720, and rings (worn throughout), from $1560, gucci.com. OPPOSITE PAGE Gucci coat, $5550, shirt, $1450, jeans, $1800, belt, $1155, and shoes, $1350, gucci.com.


OPPOSITE PAGE Gucci top, $2250, pants, $4250, belt, $1155, and shoes, $1295, gucci.com. THIS PAGE Gucci top, $2800, bra (sold as set with briefs), $1100, skirt, $2250, stockings, $530, belt, $1155, shoes, $1760, and bag, $5720, gucci.com.

OPPOSITE PAGE Gucci top, $2150, skirt, $2800, stockings, $530, shoes, $1760, and bag, $5720, gucci.com. THIS PAGE Gucci top, $3650, bra (sold as set with briefs), $1100, skirt, $5200, stockings, $530, belt, $1155, shoes, $1760, and bag, $5325, gucci.com. Hair by Koh/Vivien’s Creative. Makeup by Gillian Campbell/The Artist Group. Model: Shantae Leslie/IMG. Production: Emily Gittany.
SHOPPING 101 ideas Accessorise to perfection as you elevate your look with classic statement pieces PHOTOGRAPHED BY OLIVER BEGG STYLED BY JORDAN BOORMAN Cue top, $425, cue.com; With Harper Lu pants, $165, withharperlu.com; Poppy Lissiman sunglasses, $160, poppylissiman.com; Zara shoes, $69.95, zara.com/au; COS earrings, POA, cos.com.
S HO PP I N G 2 Here’s to silver linings! Mix, match and stack cool-toned bangles and chains, and embrace on-trend oversized earrings. 1 1 Elka Collective blazer, $369, elkacollective.com; Del Villar dress, $259, delvillar.co; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; Zara shoes, $69.95, zara.com/au; L.G.R sunglasses, $560, lgrworld.com; COS earrings, POA, cos.com. 2 Bec + Bridge top, $160, becandbridge. com; Scanlan Theodore pants, $320, scanlantheodore. com; Essēn belt, $249, essenthelabel.com; Zara boots, $299, zara.com/au; Dinosaur Designs bangles, (second from left) $260, (fourth from left) $300, dinosaurdesigns. com.au; Louise Olsen bangles, (first from left) $375, and $495, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 3 Pfeiffer dress, $350, pfeifferthelabel.com; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; Brie Leon earrings, $129, brieleon.com; COS necklace, POA, cos.com; model’s own helix earring. 3 marieclaire.com.au | 135
SH OP P IN G 1 2 3 1 Zara jacket, $149, and boots, $299, zara.com/au; With Harper Lu top (underneath), $90, and skirt, $170, withharperlu.com; Brie Leon bag, $220, brieleon.com; model’s own helix earring. 2 Brie Leon bag, $220, brieleon.com. 3 H&M dress, $79.99, hm.com; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; Zara shoes, $459, zara.com/au; A-Esque bag, $500, a-esque.com; Dinosaur Designs rings, (from top) $220, $280 and $310, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 136 | marieclaire.com.au
Everyday life calls for a versatile black handbag. Don’t be afraid to play with different shapes and sizes. With Harper Lu top, $190, withharperlu.com; St Agni shorts, $279, st-agni.com; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; Zara shoes, $69.95, zara.com/au; Perple bag, $277.50, perplewomen.com.
HAIR BY ADAM DYER/SAUNDERS & CO. MAKEUP BY CARLY LIM. MODELS: MILESHKA/PRISCILLAS; ANNALIESE/PRISCILLAS. Elka Collective dress, $299, elkacollective.com; Zara boots, $299, zara.com/au; Oroton bag, $399, oroton.com; Brie Leon earrings, $129, brieleon.com.
S HO PP I N G From pointed-toe boots to crystalised flats, step out in footwear that does all the talking. 1 2 3 1 SIR. top, $320, and skirt, $320, sirthelabel.com; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; Essēn shoes, $379, essen thelabel.com; St Agni bag, $349, st-agni.com; Brie Leon earrings, $129, brieleon.com; Dinosaur Designs rings, (from top) $220, $310 and $280, dinosaurdesigns.com.au; model’s own helix earring. 2 Pfeiffer top, $250, pfeifferthelabel.com; Cue pants, $385, cue.com; Zara shoes, $149, zara.com/au; Louise Olsen bangles, (from left) $375 and $495, and ring, $280, dinosaurdesigns.com.au. 3 Cue top, $615, and skirt, $395, cue.com; Chusette stockings, $23.95, chusette.com; L.G.R sunglasses, $560, lgrworld.com; Zara shoes, $69.95, zara.com/au; Brie Leon earrings, $129, brieleon.com. marieclaire.com.au | 139
COLOUR S PECIAL ’ FRIEND OF AUDREY It’s time to venture beyond your neutrals and embrace a pop (or more) of colour H&M jumper, $89.99, hm.com. Sandro shirt, $605, sandro-paris.com. Wanderers Travel Co. bag, $199, wandererstravelco.com. Dinosaur Designs ring, $240, dinosaurdesigns. com.au. PRETTY IN PINK Frankie4 shoes, $189.95, frankie4.com. If Margot Robbie’s wardrobe for Barbie taught us anything, it’s that life is better when you step out in pink. Charles & Keith shoes, $116, charleskeith.com. Swarovski bracelet, $329, swarovski.com. Bondi Born pants, $425, bondiborn.com. Auguste the Label skirt, $179, augustethelabel.com. LMND shirt, $115, lmnd.com.au. Bondi Born dress, $425, bondiborn.com. Charles & Keith bag, $139, charleskeith.com. Viktoria & Woods top, $390, viktoriaandwoods.com. Le Specs sunglasses, $79, lespecs.com.
FA SH I ON Faithfull the Brand dress, $319, faithfullthebrand.com. Bondi Born top, $325, bondiborn.com. Veja shoes, $240, veja-store.com/en_eu/. Witchery top, $149.95, witchery.com.au. SUNSET LOVER Charles & Keith bag, $119, charleskeith. com. INTO THE BLUE Cool, calm and collected, the colour of the sea and sky can easily be adapted to your office style with an azure or navy blazer. H&M blazer, $99.99, hm.com. Third Form top, $160, thirdform.com.au. Charles & Keith shoes, $123, charleskeith.com. Le Specs sunglasses, $69, lespecs.com. $ Witchery pants, $199.95, witchery.com.au. Marle jacket, $300, marle.co.nz. Arms of Eve cuff, $260, armsofeve.com. Viktoria & Woods skirt, $290, viktoria andwoods.com. marieclaire.com.au | 141
FA SHI ON Charles & Keith shoes, $89, charleskeith.com. Elk top, $169, elkthelabel.com. Arms of Eve bracelet, $89, armsofeve.com. Venroy dress, $180, venroy.com. H&M bag, $24.99, hm.com. Source Unknown bag, approx $100, sourceunknown.com. H&M shoes, $59.95, hm.com. Shona Joy dress, $220, shonajoy.com. THE GREEN DREAM For a shade exuding confidence and wellbeing, go green. Start with touches of lime in your shoes, jewels and handbags. Elk top, $199, elkthelabel.com. Swarovski earrings, $155, swarovski.com. Faithfull the Brand skirt, $179, faithfullthebrand.com. Friend of Audrey shirt, $259.95, friendofaudrey.com. H&M pants, $59.99, hm.com. Le Specs sunglasses, $59, lespecs.com.
Pandora bracelet, $269, pandora.net. Maison de Sabré bag, $229, maisondesabre.com. H&M shirt, $89.99, hm.com. FAITHFULL THE BRAND Vans shoes, $149.99, vans.com. Calvin Klein skirt, $269, calvinklein.com. GIVE PE ACH A CHANCE Friend of Audrey dress, $269.95, friendofaudrey.com. Play with warmth this spring. Liven up your day with a bold midi dress, or keep things simple with a statement accessory. One Teaspoon top, $39, oneteaspoon.com. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEVAK BABAKHANI. COMPILED BY EMILY GITTANY. Elk pouch, $119, elkthelabel. com. Swarovski earrings, $325, swarovski.com. H&M dress, $34.99, hm.com. Arms of Eve ring, $99, armsofeve.com. Ecco shoes, $249.95, ecco.com. VRG GRL top, $75, vrggrl.com. VRG GRL pants, $105, vrggrl.com. Specsavers sunglasses, $149 (for two pairs), specsavers.com.au. marieclaire.com.au | 143
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EDITED BY S A L LY H UN W I C K N AT U R A L LY G O O D With up to 95 per cent natural-origin ingredients and raw materials sourced sustainably from around the globe – think Marzolo mandarins from Calabria, Italy, and honey extract sourced from Guerlain’s own beehives in Calabria – these eau de toilettes are eco luxuries. In keeping with the brand’s commitment to sustainability, the close-fitting outer packing (pictured left and below) reduces waste, and its wonderfully tactile recyclable cellulose fibre is sourced from eco-managed forests. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA. FROM TOP, GUERLAIN Aqua Allegoria Harvest Mandarine Basilic EDT, and Aqua Allegoria Harvest Nerolia Vetiver EDT, $274 each. marieclaire.com.au | 145
INTO the NIGHT Night-time is your moment to add a touch of sparkle to your makeup and hair. And, as always, diamonds are a girl’s best friend PHOTOGRAPHED BY KELLY GEDDES MAKEUP BY PINKY HAIR BY KOH BEAUTY DIRECTOR SALLY HUNWICK HIGH SHINE Mood lighting calls for skin that glows from within thanks to featherweight layers of foundation and highlighter. Turn to page 153 for how to get these stunning after-dark makeup looks. Lauren (left) wears Ganni bodysuit; ANTON Jewellery Rock Candy honey quartz diamond drop earrings, $16,950, Rock Candy honey quartz diamond pendant necklace, $9250, and Rock Candy honey quartz oval ring, $7450. Steffany wears Rasario dress (from Net-A-Porter); ANTON Jewellery Riviera Monaco fancy yellow diamond drop earrings, $71,800, Riviera heart-shaped fancy yellow diamond halo studs, $4950, Riviera pear-shaped diamond halo studs, $5950, Classic Tennis 12ct diamond necklace, $58,950, Aura Tennis 8.5ct diamond necklace, $29,950, Riviera Monaco fancy yellow diamond bracelet, $79,800, Classic Tennis 5.8ct bracelet, $24,950, Classic Tennis 2ct bracelet, $7750, Riviera pear-shaped fancy yellow diamond halo eternity ring, $24,950, and Wedding Vivid oval-cut diamond eternity ring, $12,650, all at antonjewellery.com.
BE AU T Y
BE AUTY SMOKE & SMOULDER Dark, statement eyes make a big impact after dark. Steffany (left) wears Sandro dress; ANTON Jewellery Riviera pear-shaped diamond halo studs, $5950, Classic diamond 4-claw stud earrings, $1950, Classic Tennis necklace with emerald gemstones, $19,800, Classic Tennis bracelet with emerald gemstones, $17,800, Classic Tennis bracelet, $7750, and Riviera Cannes diamond multi-cluster ring, $35,950. Lauren wears St Agni dress; ANTON Jewellery Riviera Cannes sapphire and diamond pendant necklace, $4950, Allure Tennis 3.51ct bracelet, $11,450, Classic Tennis 5.8ct bracelet, $24,950, and Riviera Cannes sapphire and diamond ring, $86,300, all at antonjewellery.com. 148 | marieclaire.com.au
WING IT The ever-chic winged eye has French vibes that are perfect for an evening out. SIR. top; ANTON Jewellery R.08 single ear cuff with diamonds, $1150 each, R.08 Matrix drop earrings, $2950, R.08 Matrix lariat necklace, $7950, R.08 Deux diamond bangle, $8800, and R.08 Embrace multirow bangle, from $31,950, all at antonjewellery.com.
N I G H T-T I M E F L U S H Blush is the latest beauty obsession, so feel free to amp up colour after sunset. Lauren (left) wears Aje dress; ANTON Jewellery R.08 pointe drop earrings, $1850, R.08 single ear cuff with diamonds, $1150, Icon eternity ear cuff, $850, R.08 deux diamond necklace, $43,950, and R.08 embrace multi-row bangle, from $31,950. Steffany wears Aje dress; ANTON Jewellery R.08 contour diamond huggies, $2850, R.08 single ear cuff with diamonds, $1150, Classic diamond 4-claw stud earrings, $1950, R.08 link diamond necklace, $85,000, R.08 diamond statement link bracelet, $55,800, and Capri Dreaming lighthouse diamond ring, from $5450, all at antonjewellery.com.
BE AU T Y R E A D Y F O R I M PA C T A red lip always ups the stakes and injects some drama. Christopher Esber dress; ANTON Jewellery R.08 pointe drop earrings (medium), $1850, Capri Dreaming lighthouse huggies, $5450, Icon eternity ear cuff, $850, Allure single diamond ear cuff, $695, Classic Tennis 12ct diamond necklace, $58,950, Capri Dreaming lighthouse diamond bangle, $14,950, Classic Tennis 5.8ct bracelet, $24,950, Capri Dreaming lighthouse diamond ring, $5450, Capri Dreaming vine diamond ring, $2650, and Wedding Vivid oval-cut diamond eternity ring, $12,650, all at antonjewellery.com. marieclaire.com.au | 151
GET GLOW I NG Layer up skin-loving products for a natural-looking radiance. St Agni dress; ANTON Jewellery R.08 chain drop earrings in yellow gold, $2950, and R.08 pointe lariat necklace in yellow gold and diamonds, $2950, antonjewellery.com.
BE AU T Y GET the LOOK PHOTOGRAPHY BY KELLY GEDDES/SAUNDERS & CO. STYLING BY EMMA COTTERILL/RELOAD AGENCY. HAIR BY KOH/VIVIEN’S CREATIVE. MAKEUP BY PINKY (NICOLE THOMPSON)/DLM. MODELS: LAUREN STEVENSON/IMG; STEFANNY AGIUS/VIVIEN’S. ART DIRECTOR: LESLEY JHOTY. PRODUCTION: ROBYN FAY-PERKINS. WORDS BY SALLY HUNWICK. From a healthy flush to high-impact eyes and lips, these beauty looks will dazzle ’til dawn HIGH SHINE SMOKE & SMOULDER Sleek hair and skin that glows under mood lighting is so seductive. To achieve this, celebrity makeup artist Pinky suggests using highlighter before foundation. “Use a fluff y brush to buff highlighting cream over high points,” she says. “Then use a smaller fluff y brush to add foundation where you need it.” For eyes, “try applying deep-sea blues swept over the lids and under the lower lash line,” says Pinky. She also suggests patting shimmery shadow onto lids with fingers, to allow light to bounce off them at night. Kohl-lined eyes are a classic. “Define the crease line with shadow then blend a fine wash of eyeshadow over the lids.” Apply a hair mask to locks for a sleek, undone vibe. HOLME BEAUTY Brush Number One, $37; CHANEL No.1 De Chanel Skin Enhancer in Intense Amber, $94; RAE MORRIS Invisible Mattifier Powder, $80. WING IT N I G H TTIME FLUSH Nothing is more chic than a winged eye. This version is strong yet still feminine thanks to its delicate and precise point. “I used a felt-tip pen to create the sharp lines,” says Pinky. For the hair, Koh added a Kevin Murphy shine spray to keep locks looking sleek yet still touchable. Blush and night-time might not seem like an obvious match, but it’s a great way to add a youthful glow to an evening look. “Start with a cream blush buffed on with a fluff y face brush then tap a powder blush over the top for extra vibrancy,” says Pinky. MAKE AN I M PA C T GET GLOW I NG A statement lip allows the rest of the face and your hairstyle to stay pared back. “Liquid lipstick is the secret to a bold, clean lip in a flash,” says Pinky. “Apply sheer layers for a strong, flawless finish and add lip conditioner if the result feels too matte.” GXVE BY GWEN STEFANI Line It Up 24-Hr Gel Pencil Eyeliner in Spiderwebs, $31; NARS Single Eyeshadow in Outremer, $30; DAVINES Nounou Hair Mask, 250ml, $55. RARE BEAUTY Soft Pinch Tinted Lip Oil in Delight, $35; GUCCI BEAUTY Rouge à Lèvres Matte Lipstick in 505 Janet Rust, $72. Create flawless skin with good prep and sheer makeup layering. “Spritz and massage a hydrating mist into skin,” says Pinky. “Next, massage in serums rather than heavy moisturiser. Then add a sheer layer of foundation and concealer only where needed.” CHARLOTTE TILBURY Magic Vanish Colour Corrector in Fair, $51; CLARINS Skin Illusion Velvet foundation in 105N, $58. marieclaire.com.au | 153
Inside my SALON SUCCESS Beauty is booming. marie claire’s Sally Hunwick talks to leaders in the industry to find out exactly what it takes to excel The new KODA salon in the QVB, Sydney. RIGHT Diane Gorgievski. KO DA SA L O N S Fo u n d e r D i a n e G o r g i e v s k i KODA’s Bondi salon has long been a favourite among A-listers. Now, with a new location in Sydney’s QVB, the salon is set to also service professionals and urbanites. Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N I’ve been in the hairdressing industry for 27 years. When I founded KODA Bondi seven years ago, my goal was to elevate salon services to match the level of excellence found in top salons globally. W H AT ’ S N E W The salon at Sydney’s QVB has been designed by leading interior design studio Arent&Pyke. It’s a seamless blend of nostalgia and futurism, which invites clients to indulge in a state of ultimate relaxation. U N I Q U E S E L L I N G P O I N T ? One exclusive offering is the hair facial service [blending hair label] Davines Naturaltech and the innovative Maletti steam basin. It fuses haircare with wellness, leaving clients deeply relaxed. “THE BEST HAIR ADVICE I’VE RECEIVED IS TO AVOID OVERCOMPLICATING THINGS. STEPPING BACK AND TAKING ANOTHER LOOK AT YOUR WORK CAN PROVIDE VALUABLE INSIGHTS” – Diane Gorgievski, @koda_cutters B E S T H A I R T I P Embrace and work with your natural hair texture. Healthy, well-cared-for hair is beautiful and serves as an excellent foundation for any hairstyle. S I G N AT U R E S T Y L E Deconstructed hair. And I could not live without Davines Naturaltech Calming Shampoo. B U S I N E S S E T H O S Successful entrepreneurs possess free-thinking and determination. Finding something you truly love and immersing yourself in it every day is key. 154 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRUE RUSCOE. BEST HAIR ADVICE
BE AU T Y FAC E + B O DY BY S M Fo u n d e r S a n j a M a r i a With salons in prime Sydney locations (Paddington and Mosman) and a cult following, Face + Body by SM has established itself as an epicentre for tailored, resultdriven skin treatments, “tweakments” and injectables. T H E I N S P I R AT I O N The inspiration was to create a point of difference whereby clients are offered treatments that look beyond the generic list of beauty services. This, combined with bespoke customer service, allows the skin goal to have an “all-round concierge” and holistic feel. FROM TOP LEFT Sanja Maria, and the interior of Face + Body by SM in Sydney’s Paddington. B U S I N E S S E T H O S A N D M A N T R A This is built on the fact each client’s desired treatment goal is a personalised one. My longtime clients can attest to my mantra that skin is a commitment. Technology and treatments have come a long way but getting the best results requires a pragmatic approach. I don’t push a “quick fix”. Results are better when treatments are tailored for you. T H E G O O D A N D B A D It’s no surprise that operating a business requires a lot of dedication, commitment and time. For me, it’s not just the hours I put into each clinic, it is also the additional upskilling, training, research and development that has to be done. As a single mum, I have to be realistic and allocate my time and energy fairly between the business and my five-year-old daughter. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHAYBEN MOUSSA. AS TOLD TO FRANCESCA HARTLEY. T H E J U G G L E One of the highlights has been mastering the parenting and work balance, and seeing all my hard work and dedication pay off. I am still blown away by the loyalty of my clients in a very saturated industry. To have clients who have been with me for over 10 years ... I feel such a sense of pride. It is my main driving force to continuously improve my offering. D E S E R T I S L A N D P R O D U C T The DMK Foamy Lift Kit [enzyme mask]. It mimics the in-clinic enzymes. B E A U T Y E N T R E P R E N E U R T I P Surrender to the process. Take the highs with the lows and maintain a positive attitude through all situations. W H AT ’ S N E W I am extremely proud to have ventured into the latest technologies in women’s health, [which treat] everyday issues faced by females of all ages and demographics. These treatments will be exclusively available in our Mosman clinic. BUSINESS TIP “AS AN ENTREPRENEUR THERE IS NO QUITTING OR FAILURE, SIMPLY OPPORTUNITIES FOR IMPROVEMENT” - Sanja Maria, @faceby_sm
BE AUTY FROM LEFT Mariah Rota and Jordan Crugnale, and the interior of Cole Hair Studio in Sydney’s Double Bay. C O LE H A I R STU D I O Fo u n d e r M a r i a h R o t a a n d co- owner Jordan Crugnale Luxurious and modern, Cole Hair Studio’s creative stylists take inspiration from runway-driven trends, new techniques, and the latest technology to elevate and transform hair. The inclusive salon is a must for specialty colour work and hair extensions. T H E I N S P I R AT I O N Rota says: I saw a gap in the market U N I Q U E S E L L I N G P O I N T ? Rota says: Cole Hair is a luxury, modern salon based in Double Bay, Sydney. Our salon specialises in all aspects of hair, especially colour and hair extensions. Our senior stylists are internationally trained, all with many years of experience. We are now a salon of 13 hairdressers who work together and inspire each other to create the fabulous vibe that is Cole Hair. D E S E R T I S L A N D P R O D U C T Rota says: As someone with frizzy, unruly hair I can’t live without Kérastase Discipline [Keratin Thermique] leave-in heat protector. It reduces hair breakage, and offers anti-frizz and antihumidity action. B E S T H A I R A D V I C E Crugnale says: No matter how shiny it may make your hair, please do not use anything other than salon-quality shampoo. Silicone will be the death of all hairdressers. Also, don’t lie to us, we can tell! Y O U R S E C R E T W E A P O N Rota says: I was taught resilience and determination at a very young age by my dad. I am the only one who can make a difference to my life, and whatever the curve ball I’ll work through it and come out of the experience more knowledgeable. Being a business owner is about strong leadership, ambition, determination, energy and empathy. My staff and my clients are my world. ENTREPRENEUR TIP “BE BRAVE AND BELIEVE IN YOURSELF. BE PREPARED FOR HARD WORK AND KNOW THAT YOU WILL MAKE MISTAKES” - Mariah Rota, @colehair.studio PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK MORFFEW (HEADSHOTS); TIMOTHY KAYE (SALON IMAGES). for a luxury salon that was modern and appealed to clients of all age groups. I wanted to create a space where everyone felt welcome. We all like to present well, and when there are special occasions families and friends want to come to the salon together. Cole Hair is a salon where everyone feels welcome. The vibe is sufficiently young if you are on the younger side, but equally calm and attentive if you are slightly older.
SA L O N H E R Fo u n d e r M i c h a el Kel l y Michael Kelly found solace in the hairdressing industry as a teenager. Today he owns thriving Salon HER in Sydney’s Darlinghurst, where big names book in for natural-looking highlights, killer blowdries and (yes) cocktails. W H Y H A I R D R E S S I N G When I first started in the industry I was, like most teenagers, a little misplaced at school. I knew I was creative and could talk under water, so hairdressing as a career path seemed fitting. Quickly I realised that I possessed the natural talent and grit to achieve my goals. That belief in myself was what really catapulted me into the next 20 years of my industry growth and progression. B U S I N E S S T I P One of the best decisions I made for Salon HER was not to launch the brand prematurely. I took my time to understand myself as a person first and then as a leader to really make sure that business ownership was the right direction for me. U N I Q U E S E L L I N G P O I N T ? We offer a boutique salon experience for those who crave a bespoke service in an intimate and relaxed setting. Designed by Folk Studio to emanate the vibe created in chic hotel lobby bars found in downtown LA, your sense of time slows down, you sink in, open your laptop or a magazine and really take the time to check in with yourself and the people around you. We take our drinks seriously too. After-work haircuts [can be enjoyed with] a much-needed negroni. S E C R E T W E A P O N I keep a healthy check on where I’m at with my emotional energy. To do this ... I keep my phone on silent and I don’t sleep with my phone in the same room. I wake up early, minimise my time on social media, and keep Sunday as the day of rest. I also meditate daily and only have people around me who believe in me as a person. B E S T H A I R T I P We put so much weight on the way PHOTOGRAPHY BY TERENCE CHIN. we look these days that we often forget to appreciate what we have and the beauty we naturally possess. Whatever it is, enjoy it. If it doesn’t work out or you need to change something about your hair, then do it. You never know unless you give it a go. BEST BUSINESS TIP “WITHOUT THE TEAM THERE REALLY IS NO SALON HER. I’M VERY HUMBLED BY THIS REALISATION AND IT MOTIVATES A LOT OF THE CHOICES I MAKE FOR THE BUSINESS” - Michael Kelly, @salonher_ FROM TOP LEFT Michael Kelly and the interior of Salon HER in Sydney’s Darlinghurst. marieclaire.com.au | 157
T he bad news: between Covid and the cost of living crisis, people are getting fewer haircuts. And with that arises a slew of concerns previously sorted by regular salon visits (and a professional eye). The good news: there are products that can help. Effective formulas are just a same-day-delivery away, but it’s hard to know which ones will work. Hairstylists Anthony Nader (founder of RAW salon) and Jaye Edwards (founder of Edwards and Co) sort through these pesky issues and advise how to maintain overall hair health. CONCERN #1 U N R U LY F R I Z Z Hydration is key for combating frizz, says Jaye Edwards. He suggests applying products right after you shower to lock in moisture; think of it as “skin flooding” for your hair. While there are external aggressors that contribute to frizz, it often comes down to genetics, so “work with your natural hair texture, rather than against it”. For wavy to curly/kinky hair, products such as Bread’s Curl Capturing Gloss gel are essential in reducing frizz and taming flyaways while retaining texture and volume. Living Proof’s Smooth Styling Serum is a great option for straighter hair types and will leave locks looking polished and sleek. 1 BREAD Hair-Gel Curl Capturing Gloss, $48. 2 LIVING PROOF No Frizz Smooth Styling Serum, $57. 3 KEVIN MURPHY Killer Curls Rinse, $47.95. 4 REDKEN Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame Heat Protecting Cream, $42. Treat common hair concerns and replenish your mane with expert advice from the professionals. Francesca Hartley reports HAIR REPAIRERS 1 3 2 CONCERN #2 6 5 SCALP ISSUES The root cause of oily or greasy hair could be your scalp care (or lack of). Aveda’s new Scalp Solutions range has adaptogenic herbs and hyaluronic acid to help maintain the heath of your scalp’s microbiome. Meanwhile, treat dandruff with a salicylic-dosed shampoo, like the one from Kérastase. 4 158 | marieclaire.com.au 5 KÉRASTASE Symbiose Crème Hydrating Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, $57. 6 KLORANE AntiDandruff Rebalancing Shampoo with Galangal, $24.99. 7 AVEDA Scalp Solutions Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, $80, and 8 Scalp Solutions Stimulating Scalp Massager, $58. 7 8
10 16 CONCERN #5 11 9 12 CONCERN #3 DA M AG E For damaged and brittle locks, Anthony Nader recommends a quality hair mask. “Think of it as a facial for your hair,” he says. “The more you feed your strands, the healthier they’ll be.” With styling tools, use a heat-protective spray beforehand and “try half the heat temperature”. Also, rinsing with cool water after washing will help by closing the hair cuticle. And finally, try an at-home bond-repair treatment. “I’d stick to using a bonding product weekly and consulting with your stylist in salon,” says Edwards. DULLNESS Locks lacking lustre? Nader suspects your shower routine may be to blame. “If your hair strands are frail and lack shine, I’d say you’re using the wrong shampoo and conditioner,” he explains. “Ask your hairdresser to prescribe the best products for your hair type.” Other factors can be diet, sunlight and chemical damage. Try adding serums from Iles Formula (dosed with Australian botanicals) or Guerlain (enriched with black bee honey) into your daily hair routine, to promote vitality and shine. Nader’s preferred application involves “a few drops onto damp hair. It blow-dries in beautifully and doesn’t appear dirty or feel heavy”. 13 ILES FORMULA Haute Performance Finishing Serum, $84. 14 FEKKAI Brilliant Gloss Shampoo Shine & Anti-Frizz, 250ml, $36. 15 GUERLAIN Abeille Royale Scalp & Hair Youth-Oil-in Serum, $230. 14 13 9 VIRTUE LABS Restorative Treatment Mask, 150ml, $100. 10 EPRES Bond Repair Treatment, $98. 11 ORIBE Gold Lust Transformative Masque, $105. 12 K18 Molecular Repair Hair Oil, $94. 15 17 18 CONCERN #7 COLOUR HARM Unfortunately, colour treating your hair risks chemical damage, and “using non-salon quality products at home will also create build up and affect your colour”, says Edwards. His advice? “Put down the bleach, have a decent trim and invest in a quality restorative treatment.” To extend your colour, he suggests “booking in for regular glosses, which are 15-minute in-salon treatments that help make your colour pop without a full colour service”. 16 ELEVEN AUSTRALIA Keep My Colour Blonde Toning Spray, $27.95. 17 O&M Clean.Tone Cool Blonde Colour Treatment, $39.95. 18 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Metal Detox Serum In Oil, $60. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA; NICOLE MCCLUSKEY/APIX SYNDICATION. 19 CONCERN #4 SPLIT ENDS CONCERN #6 Supposed split-end saviours are on the rise (and amassing millions of views on TikTok’s #hairtok). But Nader warns these “revolutionary” products may not be giving the results we had hoped for. “Once the hair is split, it’s split,” he explains. “There are products on the market that can ‘mask or seal’ a split end but it’s not permanent.” Nader’s solution? Regular haircuts because “why do you want to grow unhealthy split hair?” So if your last trim is a distant memory, preventing frayed ends from splitting further up the hair shaft sounds like a very good reason to book in. Try an inside-out approach to hair loss and thinning. Invest in a high-performing ingestible (JSHealth and Vida Glow stock some of our favourites) and active topicals such as Vegamour’s GRO Serum or Robe Haircare’s Tonic. Both are lightweight and dosed with phyto-actives that work overtime to revitalise the look of hair and help improve body. Just make sure you apply them consistently, as thicker-looking locks can take time. THINNING 21 20 19 ROBE HAIRCARE The Comb, $39.99, and 20 The Tonic, $69.99. 21 VEGAMOUR Gro Hair Serum, $105.
B E AUTY THE ROUND UP Hot Tools There’s a new wave of high-tech devices changing the way we style our hair “It had to be ceramic plates, no question. These distribute heat evenly for smooth, frizz-free ironing,” says Ltn founder Anthony Nader. LTN Hair Straightener Original Styler 1" Plates, $220. PO WERFU L YING A BOU N PE R AT O R FI SLEEK Dyson’s beloved, lightweight, high-performing hairdryer uses intelligent heat control to dry hair quickly sans heat damage. NISH SM OOTH O CE UL DR TR DYSON Want megavolume? Mermade Hair’s unique ovalshaped brush promises an ever-on-trend bombshell blowout with ease. Say farewell to frizz and hello to smooth strands. Advanced ionic technology minimises static and pesky flyaways. Pair with the Moroccanoil haircare range for a sleek finish. Supersonic Hair Dryer in Prussian Blue/ Rich Copper, $649. MOROCCANOIL Smooth Style Ceramic Heated Brush, $199. MERMADE HAIR Y LONG - W ET S Ghd’s groundbreaking Air-fusion technology combines drying and heat technologies to channel an ultra-concentrated airflow. Use as a straightener on wet hair to minimise styling time and reduce heat damage. GHD Duet Style Hot Air Styler in Black, $595. L PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA. WORDS BY FRANCESCA HARTLEY. TH Air Styling & Drying System, $499. SILVER BULLET Platinum Curling Iron, 25mm, $129.95. TING C TO D R SHARK BEAUTY Shark Flexstyle RL T New to our shores, Shark Beauty’s Flexstyle tool comes with six attachments for versatile styling. A true multitasker, this tool will take you from hairstyles A to Z. U -S YLER Achieve glamorous red-carpet ringlets or effortless soft waves with the help of this tourmaline and ceramic barrel. Four heat settings up to 200°C create curls that will last. AS E M U LT I Blow Dry Brush in Baby Lilac, $109.
TA L K BELLA HADID B E AUT Y “IT’S NOT ONE PERSON OR THING. I GET INSPIRATION FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE” Pillow Talk for a dreamy everyday look and Walk Of No Shame for instant confidence. On the red carpet I love the [shade] Ruby Blur. If I want a bold finish, I’ll swipe on two coats with the applicator. It gives a really different look. MY G O -TO H A I R S T Y L E has long been a slicked-back bun because it’s so easy and seamless. In summer, when I’m on the farm, I like to keep my hair natural and just air dry. IN MY BATHRO OM YO U ’LL FIND Dr Bronner’s Lavender soap, Honey Pot PH soap and everything Vegamour [haircare]. I have a large collection of hair masks that I’ve built over the years. I always use masks to slick [back] my hair and will often use sesame oil and coconut oil to make my own. MY B E S T B E AU T Y TI P came from [makeup artist] Sofia Tilbury, who taught me to dot-dot-blend with the Charlotte Tilbury Matte Beauty Blush Wands. It’s been all over TikTok – you just dot on the apples of the cheeks, all the way to the ear, and then blend upwards for a lifted effect. It’s so quick and easy. I’m glowing in literal seconds. The model and ambassador for cult beauty brand Charlotte Tilbury talks inspiration, favourite products and her holistic approach to skin and haircare PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA; GETTY IMAGES. AS TOLD TO FRANCESCA HARTLEY. I ’M IN S PIR E D BY so many different 1 places. I’m like a sponge – always soaking up everything around me – so my beauty looks are a culmination of all the influences I encounter in my life, whether that’s on set, on the street or online. 3 MY B E AU T Y PHILO S O PHY I S I N E V E R LE AV E TH E H O US E W IT H O U T using my Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder [by Charlotte Tilbury]. If I don’t have time for anything else, I swipe that on and it instantly gives me that smooth, blurred, matte finish. Charlotte Tilbury’s Hollywood Flawless Filter [illuminating primer] has also been a staple in my beauty routine since she created it. The glow it gives is just magic. I instantly feel like a goddess! I ’M O B S E S S E D W ITH the new Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Lip Blur. It has this gorgeous, soft-focus finish that I just love. Sometimes I’ll wear it blurred, using my fingertips to tap the colour onto my lips and diffuse up to the lip line. I wear the shade 2 4 “Beauty comes from within.” Whenever I feel good on the inside, I think I look best on the outside too. W H E N O N T H E G O, I T RY TO drink as much water and get as much sleep as I can. I always make sure I have a Kin [Kin Euphorics, the non-alcoholic beverage company Hadid co-founded] in my hand to keep me feeling balanced, help stabilise my mood and give me that much-needed burst of energy. 5 1 CHARLOTTE TILBURY Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder in Medium, $73. 2 VEGAMOUR Gro Revitalizing Conditioner, $79. 3 DR BRONNER’S 6 Pure-Castile Liquid Soap in Lavender, 237ml, $14.95. 4 CHARLOTTE TILBURY Matte Beauty Blush Wand in Dream Pop, $55, and 5 Airbrush Flawless Lip Blur in Ruby Blur, $49, and 6 Hollywood Flawless Filter in Medium, $70. marieclaire.com.au | 161
SP OTL B E AUTY H IG T ON SIGN of the TIMES Turning back the clock could be less far-fetched than imagined, now that science has discovered what causes the signs of ageing. By Sally Hunwick DIOR Prestige Le Nectar Premier, $950.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA; COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR. O ur desire to stop time – or at least halt its effects on our bodies – is not new. From fairytales of magical potions to stories of mythical fountains, the allure of eternal youth has long been a source of fascination. And while there are inalienable truths we must accept (the passing of time being one), science has been working on taking prolonged youth out of the realms of fiction and into reality. Research has shown that a complexion that belies our chronological age is the goal for many of us. More than that, though, the aim now is to make our skin behave like younger skin – so it doesn’t just look younger, it is younger. But before science could work out how to turn ageing on its head, it needed to work out exactly why our skin ages in the first place. “The challenging part was discovering the age trigger,” says Laure Crabbe-Vert, the scientific coordinator at LVMH’s Life Sciences department. “For the first time, we have discovered [a process called] cellular senescence, which are cells that are unable to function properly.” Crabbe-Vert explains that senescent cells – aptly also known as “zombie cells” – are cells that have died and stopped multiplying yet stay in the skin releasing chemicals rather than disappearing. “This was really a major discovery,” she says. “We worked out that the release of these harmful molecules can then affect the skin environment and the neighbouring cells.” Like a naughty teenager who has a bad influence on her friends, the zombie cells affect surrounding healthy skin cells by sending out inflammatory signals. This makes the healthy cells act in the same ageing way – effectively “spreading” ageing throughout the skin. This phenomenon means that ageing can course throughout the body at an accelerated rate, affecting skin structure, texture and colour. The effect when we look in the mirror (or into a camera on Zoom) is a loss of skin volume, tone and radiance, and an increase in sagging and wrinkles. Dior’s scientists have taken this new knowledge and made it their mission to help reverse the signs of ageing. Turning back the years on our complexion is a big call but the experts at the maison believe that – with consistent use – its newest serum, Le Nectar Premier, is able to help pause the ageing message at its source (coined the age signal), thereby helping to slow the visible signs of ageing. It all comes down to one very special rose. At the heart of Dior’s luxury skincare line, Dior Prestige, the Rose de Granville is more than just beautiful. It is able to bloom twice a year, and the house’s scientists have studied the flower to determine how it has such impressive life force and resilience to bloom perfectly even after the harshest winter. The question was, could such resilience help to fortify our skin cells in a similar way? Cultivated in the Dior Rose Garden in Normandy, near Christian Dior’s childhood home in France, the buds became the focus for Le Nectar Premier. Twice as concentrated as the blooms, each bud is “WE WANT TO ENCOURAGE THAT A LUXURY PRODUCT CAN ALSO BE GOOD FOR THE PLANET” – L^g\^c^Z9djijgVjY"hX^Zci^ëX communication director of Parfums Christian Dior handpicked on a single spring day at a particular hour. Through a process of cryo-extraction, where buds are cryo-frozen, then cryo-ground and filtered, scientists have created a concentrate called Rosapeptide Premier, a patented complex of 99 molecules derived entirely from the special Dior rose. “The Rosapeptide acts on the skin mechanisms and reverses the three dimensions of ageing,” says Virginie Couturaud, Christian Dior’s scientific communication director. Engineered for optimum absorbency into the skin, the new complex is said to be able to act on the age signal as well as support skin structure, smooth and strengthen, and leave skin looking more luminous and even. But no product is a complete cure-all. Couturaud says it is important to have a complete skincare routine in play. “It’s very important to give your skin all the micronutrients for optimum skin function.” She recommends combining Le Nectar Premier with other products in the house’s Prestige range, such as the cult-followed La-Micro-Huile de Rose as a pre-step and Dior Prestige La Crème as a densityboosting third step. Combined, the effect on the skin is the appearance of more volume, a more refined texture and enhanced radiance. And you can feel good using it, too. Each of Dior’s roses is sustainable and traceable. Further evidence: Le Nectar Premier’s formula has 97 per cent naturalorigin ingredients, while its luxe packaging is not only refillable (a first for the brand) but also made from recycled and recyclable glass and boxed in recycled cardboard. “We are very proud of this,” says Couturaud. “The refill system means a reduction in carbon footprint, [and] we want to encourage that a luxury product can also be good for the planet.” It certainly shows that luxury and sustainability can be happy bedfellows. And like that rosebud that blooms perfectly each season, perhaps true skin renewal is also not as far off as we imagine. Certainly, some of the women who tested Dior’s product said they felt like four years had been wiped off their faces. So, fountains aside, while we may not be able to stop time per se, one day we may be able to suspend our skin as time marches on. Dior Prestige Le Nectar Premier is available from September 3 at dior.com. marieclaire.com.au | 163
B E AUTY L UXE ND I F P E AC H Y K E E N ZIMMERMANN S/S 2023 This skincare-makeup hybrid skin tint from Chanel’s N°1 is your quickest route to a peachy, glowing complexion. Each of the three pearlescent shades gives off warm tones and is dosed with camellia extract and oil as well as hyaluronic acid to keep skin hydrated and plump looking. CHANEL N°1 De Chanel Skin Enhancer, $94. FRIZZ FREE Dream: having a professional hairstylist do our hair every morning. The next best thing? This blow-dry milk from Kérastase. On the back of the brand’s long-loved Thermique range, this new niacinamide and plant-based protein dosed styling product will boost your blow-dry and ensure frizz-free styling for even very dry hair types. CARTE BLANCHE KÉRASTASE Nutritive Nectar Thermique, $61.50. BUY E GR A T the WHITE GLO Charcoal Whitening Toothpaste, $5.99. O N T H E D A I LY It’s not summer yet but there’s never a wrong moment to remind ourselves to wear sunscreen – every day. And the good news is that formulations are now so fine-textured and lightweight they act like a primer under makeup. makeup, grime and SPF and leave skin cleansed and super soft. What’s more, its sweet citrus scent gives instant feel-good vibes. KESTER BLACK Overachiever Balm Cleanser, $64. 164 | marieclaire.com.au BEST FOR: GLOW BEST FOR: EVERY DAY MECCA COSMETICA To Save Face SPF30 Facial Sunscreen, 100g, $40. LA ROCHE-POSAY Anthelios Invisible Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF 50+, $35.95. This new recruit to Mecca’s sunscreen lineup is super lightweight and leaves skin with a satiny glow, which means it can be worn on its own or under makeup. With very high UVA and UVB protection, this cult-followed fine-textured sunscreen sinks into skin and won’t leave a shiny slick. Consider it your morning staple. Always follow the directions when wearing SPF, avoid prolonged sun exposure, wear protective clothing and a hat and reapply as directed. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA; IMAXTREE/SNAPPER IMAGES. WORDS BY SALLY HUNWICK. To lift your teethwhitening game, look to activated charcoal, which can help remove stains. The mint-flavoured White Glo daily toothpaste improves whitening with five technologies, while also being enamel safe and protecting teeth.
NEW STABILIZING REPAIR CREAM helps stop sensitive skin within 1 week* before after 1 week *See a reduction in redness, irritation, and itchiness within 1 week. Independent clinical test, 31 subjects, 2 applications/day for 8 weeks.
TERRY DE GUNZBURG I A M PROUD O F the cult status of By Terry’s Hyaluronic Hydra-Powder. Used together with our new gamechanging Hyaluronic Glow Setting Mist, the finish and longevity of your makeup will be completely transformed. THR E E PRO DUC T S I C A N ’ T LIV E W IT H O U T A R E By Terry’s Baume de Rose, which is a lip lifesaver with such a luxurious scent; our Hyaluronic Hydra-Powder is an absolute staple; and finally the Crayon Blackstar [eyeliner] in the shade Terrybleu, which has a beautiful pigment. The infusion of anti-ageing ceramide 3 makes it perfect for summer. T H E CO N C E P T O F G LOW led me to create the iconic Touche Éclat [concealer], a product that brightened and enhanced the skin, defying the prevailing trend at the time of heavy, matte coverage that simply conceals flaws. As a creative director, convincing Yves Saint Laurent to launch Touche Éclat after three years was a pivotal moment for me. A S A PR O FE S SI O N A L M A K EU P A R TI S T, my inspiration stemmed from my work with luxury fashion houses and renowned fashion photographers, like Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin. Collaborating with these creative minds taught me the importance of redefining style and embracing innovation. TH E B E AU T Y INDU STRY has seen remarkable transformations since By Terry was founded 25 years ago. Countless new brands have emerged, making the landscape more competitive, while social media has allowed us to connect to a broader audience. 2 By Terry is the OG when it comes to cosmetics that double as skincare. We talk to the French founder and makeup artist about cult products and must-haves 1 3 6 NATUR A L R A DIAN CE I S embedded in By Terry’s DNA. All our formulas are carefully designed to be illuminating, not shimmery. I have a deep passion for using potent, effective ingredients and I’ve always believed in the power of hyaluronic acid, even before it became an industry buzzword. By Terry is the only brand with a full hyaluronic routine across skincare and makeup. We have been exclusively working with a Korean skincare lab for over five years to create a breakthrough, exclusive technology that features eight types of hyaluronic acid at three different molecular weights. 166 | marieclaire.com.au TO B E A B E AU T Y ENTR E PR E N EUR YO U N E E D a relentless spirit, resilience, and a willingness to persevere. INGU (I Never Give Up) is my motto. These are the key traits I live by and strive to instil in my team. I C A N H O N E S T LY SAY there isn’t much I don’t love. I feel incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to channel my creativity and share new ideas. It keeps me motivated every day. 4 ALL PRODUCTS ARE BY TERRY 1 Brightening CC Serum in Apricot Glow, $126. 2 Brightening CC Palette, $92. 3 Baume de Rose, $86. 4 Hyaluronic Pressed Hydra-Powder, $86. 5 Ombre Blackstar Cream 5 Eyeshadow in Bronze Moon, $64. 6 Hyaluronic Glow Setting Mist, $71. PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA; COURTESY OF BY TERRY. AS TOLD TO SALLY HUNWICK. THE FOUNDER B E AUTY
ANTHELIOS INVISIBLE FLUID SPF50+ FACIAL SUNSCREEN SELLING SUNSCREEN IN AUSTRALIAN PHARMACIES* YOUR LIGHTWEIGHT INVISIBLE DEFENCE AGAINST UVA & UVB DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED FOR SENSITIVE SKIN ALWAYS READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR USE. Apply 20 minutes before sun exposure. Sunscreen is only one part of sun protection, so wear protective clothing and seek shade. Avoid prolonged sun exposure. Re-apply frequently in accordance with directions. *Circana MarketEdge, AU Pharmacy Scan, Unit & Value sales Total Suncare Protection Category, YTD to 02/07/2023.
B E AUTY COLOUR CUES Move over pink, there is a new hue we need to get into: peach. This warm, orange-tinged tone is a must if you want to get skin looking glowy and youthful, and Aussie brand Runway Room has nailed it with its clean, mineral version. I love that its jojoba and vitamin E-dosed formula blends seamlessly into my cheeks and around my eyes for a healthy, natural-looking pop of colour that helps nourish and protect. RUNWAY ROOM Peach Punch Mineral Cream Stick, $59.95. S E N SUA L & S U S TA I N A B L E TRIED & TESTED Fans of Burberry will swoon for this vanilla-based gourmand fragrance. Perfumer Amandine Clerc-Marie set out to make the perfect vanilla accord using three types of vanilla, including vanilla caviar for the first time in perfumery, and hints of lavender from Provence. In another first for the brand, the bottle is now refillable. BURBERRY Goddess EDP, 100ml, $275; 150ml refill, $275. Our top picks of the latest products, by beauty director Sally Hunwick With notes of rose mixed with blackcurrant, patchouli milk and woody notes, this Givenchy scent is feminine, elegant and alluring in equal measures. The bottle is 20 per cent recycled glass and cased in cardboard from FSC-certified forests. GIVENCHY Irresistible Rose Velvet EDP, 80ml, $221. LASH L OV E R S P O W E R P L AY I’m keen to ramp up my eye look with this Byzantine-inspired eyeshadow palette from Chanel. And not just because of the stunning rich hues (I am all in for the ruby tones of the Parure Impériale palette) but also because each of the four palettes opens up to a dazzling battered gold. It’s reminiscent of the baroque spirit so adored by Gabrielle Chanel in her haute couture and jewellery pieces but, for me, its like opening up a treasure every time I want to tuck in. CHANEL Les 4 Ombres Byzance in Parure Impériale, $120. SPOT THE DIFFERENCE If only Aussie skincare brand TBH was around when I was in my teens. Many of its vegan products are designed to help with acne. I’m into this SPF 50+ face moisturiser, which is oil-free and breakout friendly. TBH Skin Shady Face Moisturiser, $39.95. Always follow the directions when wearing SPF, avoid prolonged sun exposure, wear protective clothing and a hat and reapply as directed. 168 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDWARD URRUTIA. It’s a toss-up between mascara and lip balm for my desert-island makeup must-have, so give me a new lash-maker and I’m happily testing its strengths. Here are my two top picks this month. Best for fanning: Benefit Fan Fest, $48. Promising a big, bold look, this mascara fans out every one of my lashes with ease. It’s also smudge-proof (mandatory) and gives me 24-hour wear. Best for lengthening: Hourglass Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara, $51. This tubing vegan formulation attaches microfibres to your lashes for showstopping lift, length and impressive definition.


LIFESTYLE F O O D , T R AV E L A N D I N T E R I O R S I N S P I R AT I O N EDITED BY SAMANTHA STEWART OUT OF OFFICE PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BODRUM. Wave the winter blues goodbye and grab a cocktail as we check into the world’s most lavish beach clubs. On the home front, liven up your space with inspiration from local interior designer Lucy Fenton. Eat, shop, beach, repeat: pull up a sun lounge at the LV By The Pool beach club at the Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum, Türkiye.
Lucy Fenton, interior designer and founder of Fenton & Fenton, opens the doors to her colourful abode The stylish and comforting lounge room has a sofa and coffee table by Fenton & Fenton, a huge photo by Dave Kulesza and a portrait (right) by Nunzio Miano. 172 | marieclaire.com.au
L I F ES T YL E W hen Lucy Fenton gets home from work and walks in the front door of her house in the Melbourne suburb of Malvern, she feels calm. Sort of. Constantly surrounded by bright, bold homewares at her chic interiors store Fenton & Fenton, the interior designer confesses she finds it hard to switch off from work mode. “I do love our house and the things in it and I love coming home to it,” she tells marie claire. “But in this day and age I find myself constantly connected to the office through my devices, so I admit I sometimes bring the stress home with me.” Fenton shares the home with her husband, Josh, children Pepa, 10, and Woody, eight, and their much-loved family dog Reggie, who prefers sleeping on the couch over a walk. When the couple were looking for a home for their young family, they couldn’t quite find anything that suited their needs within inner Melbourne, so they began to look further afield. “We were initially drawn to the area because it just works so well for the kids,” she explains. “We loved our city life but it wasn’t practical with Pepa and Woody. Malvern has beautiful parks, great schools, so [the kids] live alongside their friends. It’s a really practical family house all on one level, and the kids’ bedrooms are down the hallway. There’s a big yard where they can play. We saw it and knew it felt like a good place to have a young family.” While Fenton has a tendency to bring her work home with her, at least in one way it’s proven to be incredibly beneficial: the “WE LOVED OUR CITY LIFE, BUT IT JUST WASN’T PRACTICAL WITH THE KIDS” Owner Lucy Fenton loves being surrounded by colour. Artworks by Michele Luminato (left) and Liam Murphy (behind Fenton) pop against the dark walls. ABOVE The house features works by local and international artists, including a piece by Australian Robyn Rankin in the hallway. marieclaire.com.au | 173
174 | marieclaire.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVE WILSON. WORDS BY BREE PLAYER. bold, eclectic furniture, homewares and artworks that create this vibrant and unique home are a combination of pieces from her store as well as her travels. Fenton struggles to describe her interiors style because she isn’t one to play by the rules. When pressed, she says, “I’d say it’s very eclectic. I like to mix different styles, eras and colours. But really, I like practical and I’m not precious. It can be as beautiful as you want to make it, but at the end of the day your home has to be liveable.” And the family do plenty of living in their house. Sunday mornings are spent going for a walk or a bike ride via their favourite coffee shop, and breakfast is pancakes cooked by Josh. The afternoons are for watching the football – the family are big Essendon fans. “Family or friends frequently pop around impromptu to watch the football with us, or have a casual barbecue. Nothing planned or too rigid,” she says. Eight years after trading her inner-city pad for a home in the ’burbs, Fenton reflects on what the change has meant. “When I moved here I thought, ‘I have friends and I don’t have time to make new ones,’ but we’ve met so many families and it’s been so exciting getting to know them,” she explains. “I grew up out in the country and moved to Melbourne, so I didn’t have that close-knit neighbourhood childhood where you go to high school knowing everyone from primary school. I’m glad my kids have that.” Ten-year-old Pepa’s room is a pink paradise. ABOVE The open-plan kitchen and dining room are a neutral reset in the otherwise bright and bold home, featuring artworks by Alexandra Plim (large) and Emma Gale (the two smaller pieces).
L I F ES T YL E A Luminere mirror from Fenton & Fenton hangs in the hall. RIGHT Sculptures by Nadia Robertson sit atop a vintage Indian cabinet, while art by Jacques Mauhin hangs above. BELOW The home’s front room features rich, bold colours that invite you to luxuriate. GET the LO OK Love Lucy Fenton’s home decor? These four key pieces will help take you there. “IT CAN BE AS BEAUTIFUL AS YOU WANT TO MAKE IT, BUT AT THE END OF THE DAY YOUR HOME HAS TO BE LIVABLE” 1 Freedom rug, from $249, freedom.com.au. 3 King Living table, $4690, kingliving. com.au. Fenton & Fenton side table, $390, fentonandfenton.com.au. 2 4 Fenton & Fenton vase, $360, fentonandfenton. com.au.
NOBU HOTEL MARBELLA S PA I N Don your best resortwear and set up for a day of five-star indulgence at Nobu Hotel’s Chiringuito beach club. Situated along the Golden Mile, this glamorous waterfront hideout serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine – from its famous black paella to the fresh espetos. As the sun sets, the house DJ gets things going as the alfresco space transforms into a buzzing nightclub. slh.com If you’re fond of sand dunes, salty air and a cocktail or two – with the best beach views in the world – consider your next seaside getaway sorted
L I F ES T YL E FROM ABOVE Dive right into the tranquil pool at Nobu Hotel Marbella; and the Deluxe Room’s neutral-toned interiors flow effortlessly out to the balcony. marieclaire.com.au | 177
LI FESTYLE AZURA PER I-PER I B E ACH CLU B MOZ A MBIQUE Mozambique calls for lazy long lunches by the sea and what better place to do so than the only beach club in the Bazaruto Archipelago? The intimate yet laidback party atmosphere complements the scrumptious seafood-led Mozambican menu, highly Instagrammable swing seats and open-air bar boasting the best frozen margaritas in town. Post-swim, order a round of crab casquinhas to your private pavilion, bop to the local beats and lap up the holiday bliss. azura-retreats.com COMO B E ACH C L U B AT C O M O UMA CANGGU BALI For those seeking a Bali experience that promises Bollinger over Bintangs, look no further. Designed in the style of a traditional surf shack, this refined yet relaxed beach club redefines easy living. Here you’ll find an eclectic kitchen that never stops, a standout cocktail list, daybeds delivering poolside bliss and sea views to make the folks back home jealous. Topping things off are talented local live musicians and DJs, providing the ideal soundtrack to your island getaway. comohotels.com 178 | marieclaire.com.au
S A N D O M E N I C O PA L A C E , TA O R M I N A , A F O U R SEASONS HOTEL I T A LY WORDS BY SAMANTHA STEWART. On a hilltop overlooking the Ionian Sea, the distinctive Blu Mediterraneo print signifies Dolce & Gabbana’s takeover of the beach club at Sicily’s San Domenico Palace (yes, the one in the second season of The White Lotus). The former monastery, decorated by the luxury Italian fashion house, includes the entire infinity pool area and terrace, creating an exquisite setting where guests can soak up the beauty of the south of Italy. fourseasons.com
LIF ESTYLE CHECKING IN THE LANGHAM, G O LD COA ST This month, we’re pouring a glass of The Pastoralist Cabernet Sauvignon from Riddoch Coonawarra’s 2021 vintage. This award-winning silky-smooth drop has notes of fresh blackcurrant combined with underlying cedar oak. Bottoms up! riddochcoonawarra.com.au R E D, R E D W I N E Miele’s TwinDos system takes the effort out of laundry day thanks to its automatic dosing feature and ability to blend two liquid detergents. It will ensure all your garments are washed to perfection. From $5349 for the WWV 980 WPS 9kg washing machine. miele.com.au 180 | marieclaire.com.au WO O D CU T A steak restaurant may not be the first place you think of for breakfast, but Crown Sydney’s Woodcut is proposing it should be, thanks to its delicious New York-style brunch. It’s designed to share, and there’s no better way to spend a Sunday. Make sure you pair it with a French 75 cocktail – it’s what they’d do in Manhattan. crownsydney.com.au WORDS BY SAMANTHA STEWART; BREE PLAYER. Glamorous, feminine and chic are not usually words you’d associate with the Gold Coast, and yet The Langham is exactly that: an opulent haven where you can indulge in high teas, day spas and cocktails. Take your best girlfriends and live your best life. T H E R O O M S Big enough to throw a party in and with views across the glistening ocean, you’d stay there all day if the rest of the resort didn’t have so much going on. The rooms’ plush beds will ensure you sleep like a dream and the giant tub is an invitation to chill that you can’t pass up. D I N E Start your evening with The Grand Jewel cocktail in the hotel’s Palm Court before indulging in the eight-plate chef’s set menu at Akoya – one of the two hotel restaurants. Make sure you pace yourself, as you won’t want to miss the pina colada pavlova. G E T T H E R E 38 Old Burleigh Road, Surfers Paradise, Queensland. langhamhotels.com TA I L O R M A D E
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LI F E S TO RY From pioneering pop music to fighting for civil rights, Dionne Warwick has always been a force of nature (look no further than her Twitter account for proof). In the wake of her internet renaissance, we bow down to the legendary artist and activist. By Alley Pascoe ionne Warwick was preparing to taste the sweetness of success. It was 1962 and a 21-year-old Warwick was standing on the cusp of her big break, having just recorded a demo for the song “Make It Easy on Yourself”, which was meant to be her first single. When Warwick found out that music producer Burt Bacharach had given the track to a male artist, Jerry Butler, the taste in her mouth turned sour. During a heated argument, Warwick raised hell. “We have a problem here,” she yelled at Bacharach. “You want me to record with you? I am who I am. Don’t make me over, man!” In a twist of fate – or a righting of a wrong – the argument inspired what would become Warwick’s debut single. “Don’t Make Me Over” was released in October 1962 and it went on to reach the top five of the R&B charts (her surname, “Warrick”, was misspelled on the label, so she became Dionne Warwick). But her penchant for fighting the patriarchy didn’t change. Born Marie Dionne Warrick on December 12, 1940, the artist’s life started in New Jersey where her family were part of the gospel group the Drinkard Singers. Her mother, Lee Drinkard Warrick, was one of the original members of the group and eventually managed the band. Warwick recalled that her mother was employed at an electrical plant and never missed a day of work. “I believe this taught us the worth of responsibility and the importance of earning your way through life,” she later revealed in her autobiography. “This was especially significant given there were not many role models for women who aspired to careers and work of their own at that time.” Her father, Mancel L. Warrick, was a minister and worked as a porter for the railroad, considered a prestigious job for Black men in that period. Warwick first took to the stage at the age of six, when she was given a standing ovation for her performance of “Jesus Loves Me” during Sunday church proceedings. One round of applause was all it took to propel her Warwick performing in December 1969. OPPOSITE PAGE The star in 1975. marieclaire.com.au | 183
LI FE S TO RY towards a music career. At 17, she won Amateur Night at Harlem’s legendary Apollo Theater and she soon began working steadily in a group of backup singers. But Warwick wasn’t built for being anyone’s backup; she was destined to be front and centre. Bacharach, the aforementioned music producer and composer, spotted her star power and signed her to his production company. “She has a tremendous strong side and a delicacy when singing softly – like miniature ships in bottles,” he is quoted as saying. Bottles are easily smashed, however, and Warwick faced the shattering pressure of being a Black woman trying to make it in a maledominated industry in the 1960s. This was a time when women needed their husband’s signature to get a credit card, when they could be fired for falling pregnant and when the contraceptive pill was still illegal in some US states. It was also a time when racial segregation existed, when civil rights were but a dream for Dr Martin Luther King Jr, and when 50 per cent of African-Americans lived in poverty. This time of turmoil and injustice was the backdrop to Warwick’s success. When her album was released in Europe, a white woman was featured on the cover and Warwick’s fans did not know she was Black. While trying to appeal to both Black and white audiences, Warwick was accused of being a sell-out and criticised for mostly working with white male producers, like Bacharach. After she performed a 15-minute medley at New York’s famed Copacabana, Barbra Streisand’s manager came into Warwick’s dressing room and told her she couldn’t just sit on a stool and sing for 15 minutes without saying a word to the audience. “Well, I just did,” she bit back. “And I got a standing ovation.” Later on, Warwick revealed, “I have always been motivated by people who tell me what I can’t do.” That pushed her to continue to release hits and become known as the artist who “bridged the gap”, defying genres and racism. Her original version of the song “I Say a Little Prayer” reached number four on the Billboard pop chart in 1967 and received acclaim In a 1981 studio photo session. BELOW With her cousin Whitney Houston at a 1990 awards presentation. when Aretha Franklin released a cover the following year. In 1969, at the Century Plaza Hotel in Los Angeles, Warwick was the first AfricanAmerican solo female artist of her generation to win the prestigious Grammy for Best Contemporary Female Vocalist Performance, for “Do You Know the Way to San Jose?”. It was the highlight of her career, but there were many more to come. “THE MALE EGO IS A FRAGILE THING. IT’S HARD WHEN THE WOMAN IS THE BREADWINNER. I HAVE ALWAYS TAKEN CARE OF MYSELF” Warwick’s first European record cover pictured a white woman. T o say that Dionne Warwick is a feminist icon might downplay the challenges she has fought and overcome as a Black woman who grew up during the Civil Rights Movement in America and who became one of the highest charting female vocalists during the rock era of 1955-1999 (second only to Aretha Franklin). Warwick was a pioneer in the pop genre and continues to be a force for change in the music industry. For many years, she’s been an open critic of the misogynistic tone of gangster rappers who spit rhymes about bitches and hoes, famously inviting Snoop Dogg and Tupac Shakur to her house to “call me a bitch” face-to-face. When she wasn’t busy calling out sexism or selling 75 million singles worldwide, Warwick was blazing trails in her personal life. She married William Elliott, a television actor, not once but twice. First tying the knot in 1966, Warwick divorced him in 1967 and then remarried three months later. For Warwick, it was a case of “can’t do with, can’t do without, so I married
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Elton GETTY IMAGES. John, Warwick, Gladys Knight and Stevie Wonder performing at the AIDS Concert ’88 in Washington, DC; her Taylor Swift tweets; giving a tribute to Berry Gordy and Smokey Robinson in 2023; with her sons in 2014; and at the 1969 Grammys with her husband, William Elliott. him again”. The couple had two sons, David and Damon, before divorcing again in 1975. During the divorce, Elliott requested $US2000 a month in spousal support, which was denied. “I was the breadwinner. The male ego is a fragile thing. It’s hard when the woman is the breadwinner. All my life, the only man who ever took care of me financially was my father. I have always taken care of myself,” said Warwick. As well as taking care of herself, Warwick has also looked after the community. A firm advocate for LGBTQI+ rights, Warwick recorded “That’s What Friends Are For” as a charity single with Elton John, Gladys Knight and Stevie Wonder in 1985. The song topped the Billboard charts and won a Grammy. Warwick donated all profits, more than $US3 million, to AIDS causes. “You have to be granite not to want to help people with AIDS, because the devastation that it causes is so painful to see. I was so hurt to see my friend die with such agony,” she told The Washington Post in 1988, before going on to serve as the US Ambassador of Health under the Reagan and Bush administrations. If you thought Warwick would slow down as she got older, you clearly haven’t been paying attention. She was a force as a twenty-something pop star and she’s still a force as a grandmother. In 2002, the then 61-year-old was detained at Miami International Airport after security found 11 suspected marijuana joints in her lipstick case; she was charged with possession. In 2013, she declared bankruptcy, supposedly due to the mismanagement of her business affairs and amassing a tax bill of about $US10 million. Now, at 82, Warwick has been crowned the “Queen of Twitter”. She issued a much-needed warning against idiocy when she tweeted in early 2021, “Remember: If I follow you today, I can unfollow you tomorrow if foolishness “YOU’D HAVE TO BE GRANITE NOT TO WANT TO HELP PEOPLE WITH AIDS BECAUSE THE DEVASTATION IT CAUSES IS SO PAINFUL TO SEE” is your thing.” Later that year, she spoke for everyone when she came out against food combination abominations, like Oreos dipped in mayonnaise. And then she became the internet’s favourite grandmother when Taylor Swift re-released a version of “All Too Well” in 2021, singing about leaving her scarf at an ex’s house (cough Jake Gyllenhaal cough). In a series of tweets, Warwick called on Gyllenhaal to do the right thing: “If that young man has Taylor’s scarf, he should return it.” She went on to say, “It does not belong to you. Box it up and I will pay the cost of postage, Jake.” And so, Dionne Warwick continues doing what she has always done best: fighting for women to receive what is rightfully theirs. Also: sticking it to people who tell her what she can’t do. marieclaire.com.au | 185
LA ST WO RD dancing to music. When I started getting into this job more seriously, Mum was right by my side. I don’t know where I’d be without her. Mums see you for who you are, in ways that no-one else will ever be able to, if you’re fortunate enough to have a great relationship. There are times when they say things you don’t want to hear [but] I think that’s what true love is. I feel really lucky to have continued into a really good adult relationship with my mum. I’m continuously inspired by her work ethic and I owe [mine] to her. “You don’t have to worry about your social battery when you’re with the right people” THE WOMEN WHO MADE ME GRETTA RAY The Melbourne singer-songwriter opens up about those who helped her find her voice M EGHAN C ALL AGHAN AND LEAH SPURGEON I met my two best friends when we were five years old. Meg was like a magnet I was drawn to. She’s creative, smart and extremely hilarious. I connected with Leah through Meg, and soon enough we were all in the same imaginative headspace. The three of us fit seamlessly together. When we started high school it was very obvious to everyone that we had arrived as a trio. We went everywhere and did everything together. There’s a certain point in friendships where you start growing and learning and doing different things. It’s easy to drift apart when people change, but the three of us continuously proved to each other that we could grow together. Meg and Leah have always been really understanding of all the things that 186 | marieclaire.com.au come with my career. I often go to them with new music to get their advice. The best thing about childhood friends – and the right people – is that you don’t have to worry about your social battery when you’re with them. K AT H M U R D O C H Growing up I was always surrounded by music. My parents loved listening to the great storytellers of our time: James Taylor, Joni Mitchell, Rufus Wainwright and Paul Simon. Mum was always really supportive of my interests and nurtured my creativity. It was Mum who first taught me how to play guitar. During my childhood, we spent a lot of time in a town called Kennett River on the Great Ocean Road. Some of my favourite memories are from those times with Mum, being by the beach and My first CD was a Kylie album when I was seven. Kylie was the first artist to really get me excited about pop music. I had a pretty on-and-off relationship with pop through my childhood and teens. When you’re a kid, pop music is colourful and exciting. I remember sitting in the car as a child and listening to Kylie, Hilary Duff and Taylor Swift when we were on roadtrips. [Later on] I definitely closed my eyes to pop music for a while. I went to a wonderful, very artsy high school and I felt like I needed to be perceived as cool and edgy and different. Being able to reflect on music now through the lens of being a pop writer is really interesting. I realised that pop music can be emotional and evocative and deep. I’m so inspired by it and how many different variations there are and what you can do with it. There’s still this taboo around pop music [and this idea that] because it’s catchy it can’t be complex and intelligent, when in fact it means that the artist worked extra hard to make sure the song was going to resonate and stick with you. That’s powerful. Having someone like Kylie, who is so successful and has come from the same place as me is so inspiring. I found out recently that her song “Spinning Around” was released when she was 32 years old and that “Can’t Get You Out of my Head” was released [a year later]. It makes me feel excited to keep striving to do the best that I can in my career, because I have some years of experience under my belt. Now I’m in a really comfortable place with my art and I feel really good about my new songs. I never could have done what I am doing now when I was 18. It’s good to have those reminder stories, like Kylie’s, because there’s definitely a narrative [out there] that you can only find success as a very young female artist. Gretta Ray’s new album, Positive Spin, is out August 18. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CYBELE MALINOWSKI. AS TOLD TO HARRIET SIM. KYLIE MINOGUE