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Tags: fashion magazine fashion vogue magazine female fashion clothes women's clothes
Year: 2024
Text
ISSUE 32
june
Vogue Voices:
SHANTI
PEREIRA
on building a better
sporting culture
in Singapore
45
Watches &
pages of
Jewellery
the greatest in
horology and gems
CONTENTS
028
InVOGUE
020
SKY ALFONSO
The brain behind Orchard
Road Fashion speaks to Vogue
Singapore on Singaporean style,
content creation and the rise of
digital media.
022
ALL TIME HIGH
As luxury fashion’s price points
seem to have hit a point of no
return, one editor unpacks the
resulting consumer fatigue.
026
SLIP ON
Timeless and effortlessly
flattering, the slip dress makes
a return. Switch things up for
pre-autumn by opting for varied
fabrics such as leather or a bold,
textural print.
028
IN HINDSIGHT
This season, it’s all about showing
off—your back, that is. Explore
dramatic cutouts, elaborate
designs and draping to make a
statement in an unexpected way.
030
032
034
8
BLANK SLATE
This pre-autumn season, opt for a
full white ensemble for maximum
impact. To elevate your look,
experiment with material, shapes
and detailing.
TIED UP
No detail is ever too small, which
is why scarves are a standout
accessory this season. Opt for
lighter fabrications to make the
trend work for our climate or
consider built-in iterations for
seamless wear.
LIKE THE BOYS
Borrowing from menswear hasn’t
gone out of style. From textiles
and sharp suits to vests and
boxer shorts, try out masculine
cornerstones for a wardrobe
switch-up.
036
EQUESTRIAN KNIGHT
Burberry’s Rocking Horse bag
offers a fresh take on heritage,
featuring subtle equestrian nods
alongside contemporary details.
038
A NEW FRONTIER
In commemoration of Kering’s
three-year research collaboration
with the National University of
Singapore, chief sustainability
and institutional affairs officer
Marie-Claire Daveu delves into
why Asia is the springboard for
impactful change.
041
SCULPTURED ELEGANCE
For spring/summer 2024, Braun
Büffel introduces its new Spiralig
bag inspired by ceramic art.
042
SUMMER SPLASH
Rimowa welcomes summer
with fresh seasonal hues of mint
and papaya for its Essential line
of suitcases.
044
PLAY MY MUSIC
Inspired by island vibes and a
playful summer style, Loewe
takes vibrancy and flair to
another level with its Paula’s Ibiza
2024 collection.
046
MOMO
In tandem with Onitsuka Tiger’s
75th anniversary, the singer,
rapper and dancer of K-pop nonet,
Twice, reflects on a decade in the
industry, her evolving style as well
as the little moments that keep
her grounded.
050
THE EDIT
Make an impact with the most
collector-worthy statement
bags from fashion’s biggest
legacy brands.
CONTENTS
076
BEAUTY
052
053
054
056
10
MICHELLE PHAN
The Vietnamese-American
entrepreneur has come a long way
since launching her YouTube
channel in 2007. Vogue Singapore
sits down with the legend to
get the lowdown on her beauty
philosophy, go-to fragrance
and more.
SWATCHED
It’s time to bring timeless rouges
back in rotation. These latest
variants pack a pigment punch
while moisturising and nourishing
your lips.
BEAUTY DESK
Get your finger on the pulse. Vogue
Singapore takes you through
what’s buzzy, bold and bursting
with untapped potential in the
beauty sphere this month.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
In a world of appetite-curbing
jellies and meal replacement
shakes, are we making
advancements within the
nutritional space or simply
glamorising disordered eating?
058
HOT CHILD IN THE CITY
As the mercury rises, so too should
the saturation in your favourite
shades. Turn it up with these
dynamic brights.
VITRINE
087
THE CASE FOR CHANGE
Parisian jeweller Boucheron rolls
out its revamped, environmentally
minded packaging in Singapore
this month.
088
RISING STARS
In the realm of gemstones, a new
wave of precious favourites are on
the rise.
090
A WORLD UNTO ITSELF
Tiffany & Co’s chief gemologist
Victoria Reynolds discusses the
American jeweller’s legacy.
067
WONDERS ABOUND
The latest and greatest of 2024
in watchmaking.
076
EAU DE ATELIER
K-pop superstar Jennie models
the freshest Coco Crush creations
by Chanel and talks life since
founding her own agency.
093
A CUT ABOVE
Vacheron Constantin debuts its
first Égerie timepiece designed
in collaboration with couturier
Yin Yiqing.
084
FINAL TOUCH
Brooches are the statement jewel
style of the moment to know.
094
THE KING OF METALS
The eternal allure of gold shines in
these jewels, from bold sculptural
forms to finely nuanced designs.
086
SUCCESSIONS
Cult jeweller names from decades
past are making a comeback, with
modern revivals on the way.
Lights across the grounds
of The Macallan
Inviting the past to join a present
they ensured would see this day.
Discover more at themacallan.com
Crafted without compromise. Please savour The Macallan responsibly.
CONTENTS
124
100
GUIDING HAND
At Buccellati, reverence for
Renaissance-era craftsmanship
sets the Milanese house’s
jewels apart.
102
LUCKY CHARMS
It’s a tale as old as time; closely
held precious talismans worn to
bring one luck and protection.
104
WANDERING EYE
Migratory jewels escape their
usual place, finding themselves in
the nooks and crannies of the body.
IMPACT
124
BUTTERFLY EFFECT
How has fashion impacted the
way we view the world? In an ode
to Wong Kar-wai’s influential and
atmospheric cinematography,
Chinese photographer Leslie
Zhang lenses the striking Xiaowen
Ju in romantic evening wear from
the trailblazing Asian designers to
know now.
138
GO GIGI!
On the starting line for Vogue
World, Gigi Hadid remains the
reigning champion of fashion.
154
LAST PAGE
Legendary Singaporean
philanthropist, writer and doctor
Ang Swee Chai sheds light on
how her organisation is sending
medical aid to Palestine.
LIFE
110
STARTER PISTOL
As she gears up for the Paris
Olympics, Singaporean sprinter
Shanti Pereira reflects on her past,
present and future.
116
CINEMATHEQUE
Nicole Midori Woodford is one
of Singapore’s most prominent
independent filmmakers
today—and her debut feature is a
tender triumph.
118
12
INTO THE WILD
The slow-paced Kangaroo Island
brims with spectacular coastlines,
divine produce and an abundance
of animals in their natural habitat.
NEW
CLARIFY & REPAIR CREME
8 YEARS OF DARK SPOTS
CORRECTED IN 8 WEEKS1
HONEY FROM OUESSANT ISLAND2
RESTORING WHITE HONEY.
1
Clinical evaluation by a dermatologist based on the density of the pigmentary spots – Asian Skin Aging Atlas, R. Bazin & F. Flament – 47 women, twice a day.
2
In a blend of honeys.
EDITORIAL
Editor-in-Chief Desmond Lim
Digital Editor Janice Sim
Watches & Jewellery Editor Gordon Ng
Chief Sub-Editor Jacqueline Danam
Associate Lifestyle Editor Chandreyee Ray
Digital Writer Azrin Tan
Writer Jesslyn Lye
Editorial Interns Nurul Firdousee, Elizabeth Chee, Christina Yang
FASHION
Fashion Features Editor Maya Menon
Stylist Jasmine Ashvinkumar
Stylist Nicholas See
Fashion Features Writer Bryan Ho
BEAUTY
Beauty and Wellness Director Alli Sim
Associate Beauty Editor Emily Heng
ART
Designer Jason Thien
Contributing Designer Venus Loh
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST
Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch
Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S.Revenue &
International Pamela Drucker Mann
Global Chief Content Officer Anna Wintour
Chief Financial Officer Nick Hotchkin
Chief People Officer Stan Duncan
Chief Communications Officer Danielle Carrig
Chief of Staff Samantha Morgan
Chief Product & Technology Officer Sanjay Bhakta
Chief Content Operations Officer Christiane Mack
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD
Jonathan Newhouse
SALES
Group Commercial Director Michelle Ong
Senior Sales Manager Farah Dinah
Sales Manager Chinmay Daswani
Senior Campaign Executive Angelle Sun
Campaign Management Intern Emily Aye
WORLDWIDE EDITIONS
France: AD, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue
Germany: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, Vogue
India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue
Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ,
La Cucina Italiana, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
Japan: GQ, Vogue, Wired
Mexico and Latin America: AD, Glamour, GQ, Vogue, Wired
Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller
Spain: AD, Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair,
Vogue, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias
Taiwan: GQ, Vogue
United Kingdom: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast
Traveller, Glamour, GQ, House & Garden, Tatler, The World
of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Business, Wired
United States: AD, Allure, Ars Technica, Bon Appétit,
Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ, LOVE,
Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker,
Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
MARKETING
Senior Marketing Manager Marc Braydon
PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE
Brazil: Glamour, GQ, Vogue
PRODUCTION
Group Production Director Anna Tsirelnikova
Media Traffic and Client Services Coordinator Dao Thu Ha
PUBLISHED UNDER LICENCE OR
COPYRIGHT COOPERATION
Adria: Vogue
Australia: GQ, Vogue
Bulgaria: Glamour
China: AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, Vogue
Czech Republic and Slovakia: Vogue, Wired
Greece: Vogue
Hong Kong: Vogue, Vogue Man
Hungary: Glamour
Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue, Wired
Middle East: GQ, Vogue, Wired
Philippines: Vogue
Poland: AD, Glamour, Vogue
Portugal: GQ, Vogue
Romania: Glamour
Scandinavia: Vogue
Singapore: Vogue
South Africa: Glamour, GQ, House & Garden
Thailand: GQ, Vogue
The Netherlands: Vogue
Turkey: GQ, Vogue
Ukraine: Vogue
DIGITAL AND CREATIVE PRODUCTION
Producer David Bay
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS AND ILLUSTRATORS
Feedbeng, Heejune Kim, Leslie Zhang, Lucile Leber, Nawang Cahyani,
Paula Latimori, Sayher Heffernan, Stefan Khoo, Studio Oooze, Yoon Soni, Zantz Han
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS AND STYLISTS
Amelia Chia, Audrey Hu, Aurora Sansone, Choi Minhye, Eunji Shin, Gayeong Ryu, Kihoh Sohn, Park Min-hee
MANAGEMENT
Publisher Bettina von Schlippe
Managing Director Natasha Damodaran
PREPRESS
Senior Reprographic Prepress Technician Ngo Thi Hong Phuong
Reprographic Prepress Technician Bui Thi Lan Anh
Digital Imaging Graphic Assistant Nguyen Phan Anh
IT
IT Manager Roger Valberg
ACCOUNTS AND ADMINISTRATION
Accountant Seinn Kyaing
Account Receivables Hui Ying Soh
Editorial, Sales and Marketing Assistant & Office Manager Tetyana Babina
GROUP COO/CFO
Aleksandr Trefilov
PRESIDENT
Michael von Schlippe
Published by Media Publishares Pte Ltd (202016673N),
MCI (P) 055/03/2024, ISSN 27374351, PPS1919/07/2022 (026020)
1 Syed Alwi Road, #02-02 Song Lin Building,
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By permission of Condé Nast, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007, USA
Printer: KHL Printing Pte Ltd, 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968
The views expressed in the articles and materials published are not necessarily those of Media Publishares Pte Ltd (202016673N).
While every reasonable care is taken in compiling the magazine, the publisher shall not be held liable for any omission, error or inaccuracy,
and accepts no responsibility for the content of advertisements published. Please notify the publisher in writing of any such omission,
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No part of this publication may be reproduced and/or transmitted in any form without the publisher’s permission in writing.
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Editor’s LETTER
I
’ve learnt that out of the 10 issues we produce a year, there are at least
one or two that test the human spirit—something my team can vouch
for. As I’m writing this letter, it is safe to say that this issue is one of those.
The cover alone had us scouring London, New York and Los Angeles
before we finally brought production back to Asia, all in two weeks. It’s
been just nine hours since we wrapped our cover shoot and I am still feeling the
adrenaline rush. With ‘Impact’ being the theme of this issue, the sheer weight
of the word felt hefty. But it’s also proven that impact need not necessarily be
something far-reaching or cogent.
Take Sky Alfonso, for instance, the elusive and Banksy-esque street
style photographer who is famed for his Orchard Road Fashion series on social
media. In this issue, he shares his views on the intricacies that make up local
style—from societal expectations to, yes, even the weather. “My goal is to inspire
individuals to embrace their unique style confidently while simultaneously
showcasing the vibrancy of Singaporean fashion to a global audience.” This is
a notion that I’m sold on, given that there’s a unique sense of pride and purpose
surrounding our underground fashion scene in recent times (page 20).
And speaking of pride, associate lifestyle editor Chandreyee Ray speaks
to Shanti Pereira, Singapore’s national sprinter, about her blockbuster season of
setting and smashing records as she gears up for the race of a lifetime: the Paris
Olympics. Here, Pereira talks about her past, present and future, and delves into
why building a better sporting culture in Singapore is more vital now than ever
before (page 110).
On another note, the chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer
of Kering, Marie-Claire Daveu, was in town last month to forge a partnership
with the National University of Singapore, honing in on ecosystems, biodiversity
and nature. It was insightful to hear her take on the ever-evolving landscape of
sustainability in fashion, overconsumption, as well as the dire need to drive
impactful change (page 38).
This month, we are introducing Vogue Singapore’s inaugural Watches &
Jewellery special, spearheaded by watches and jewellery editor, Gordon Ng. This
section comprises a whopping 45 pages, entirely redesigned and curated. Flip
through the pages for the greatest in horology and jewellery making, alongside
necessary stories about the current favour for vintage. It also features a trio of
shopping edits that touch on ultra-trendy lucky charms and an assortment of
uncommon yet fast-rising gemstones to know and acquire this coming season.
And finally, land on our last page, featuring the legendary Singaporean
philanthropist, writer, doctor and co-founder of Medical Aid for Palestinians,
Dr Ang Swee Chai. Here, she pens a few words on what impact means to
her while shedding light on the emergency in Gaza. You will also find a
donation link to send immediate and urgent medical aid to Gaza through a
trusted organisation.
At Vogue Singapore, we believe no action is too small when it comes to
driving change for good.
Xiaowen Ju wears Bad Binch Tongtong jumpsuit;
Chaumet Bee My Love earrings, ring and bracelet
Photographer LESLIE ZHANG
Stylist AUDREY HU
Desmond Lim
Editor-in-Chief, Vogue Singapore
16
Make-up YOOYO KEONG MING
Hair MINGHU ZHANG
A club like no other
Insider access, exclusive gifts and special events for Members only.
19–51
Saint Laurent by
Anthony Vaccarello
blazer and shirt
Hair and make-up, Zhou
Aiyi/Makeup Entourage
using Make Up For Ever and
Keune Singapore.
VOGUE Introduces
SKY ALFONSO
The mind behind Orchard Road Fashion speaks to Vogue Singapore
on Singaporean style, content creation and the rise of digital media.
Photography ZANTZ HAN
Styling and words BRYAN HO
As Singapore continues to push the fashion envelope and evolve into a hub of selfexpression, there has been a steady influx of media platforms that have looked to
document its cultural renaissance. Leading this charge is none other than eminent social
media account Orchard Road Fashion, a digital street style page that has gone viral on
Instagram and Tiktok over the last two years for its unabashed display of cosmopolitan
flair and youth culture.
Helming it is 35-year-old photographer Sky Alfonso, whose prior experience
working in the world of creative advertising sparked a genuine interest towards
Singaporean style. “I initially launched Orchard Road Fashion out of sheer curiosity
to explore the local fashion scene, but it swiftly evolved into a fervent passion project,”
shares the communications graduate. He reveals that getting the account up and running
required trial and error, consisting of six months of site reconnaissance to pinpoint
optimal shooting locations and angles.
Taking inspiration from street style accounts based in fashion capitals such as
New York, Seoul and Tokyo, there is a level of unfiltered charm and raw beauty present
in his work. Alfonso is quick to acknowledge the appeal street style photography has on
the masses, stating: “It provides an authentic glimpse into the diversity and dynamic of
the local scene, serving as a trend barometer for what is currently à la mode.” He adds that
short-form content in today’s digital age provides a constant stream of freshness and
abundance, allowing consumers of all backgrounds and ages to be exposed to a vast array
of ideas and experiences.
As for what defines Singaporean style, Alfonso believes it boils down to comfort
and versatility. “The climate and societal perceptions play significant roles in these
tendencies, often stifling creativity and opportunity for experimentation.” His wardrobe
is certainly an indication of that, with relaxed silhouettes and strong colour-blocking
making up the casual ensembles he dons. “I tend to shop from emerging labels across
Singapore, Thailand, South Korea and Japan”, he muses. “High-street design that is
unserious and wearable resonates the most with me.”
Looking ahead, Alfonso is optimistic of what is to come for Orchard Road Fashion.
“We’ll continue to expand our reach regionally, fostering partnerships with designers,
brands and content creators from all around Asia.” Locally, he wishes to champion more
initiatives and spearhead events to grow the community further. “My dream is to revive
Singapore Fashion Week, to provide a distinguished platform for our designers to shine.
After all, Orchard Road Fashion is a celebration of the hope and vibrancy present within
the industry.”
21
InVOGUE Viewpoint
All Time HIGH
As luxury fashion’s price points seem to have hit a point of no return,
one editor unpacks the resulting consumer fatigue.
Words MAYA MENON
t’s been a trying time for fashion. Watch the clock and you’ll notice that this
pendulum swing comes around every once in a while—if not month to month,
then year to year. As we navigate a new economy and consumer landscape,
the changes we’re reckoning with reflect larger issues at hand. New and
unexpected faces at the helm of major legacy fashion houses, raising prices
of star products and a general lack of connection to the archetypes we’ve
come to know and love. In Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster, fashion journalist
Dana Thomas breaks down this cyclical phenomenon in 2007.
“The way we dress reflects not only our personality, but our economic, political
and social standing and our self-worth. Luxury adornment has always been at the top
of the pyramid, setting apart the haves from the have-nots. Its defining elements—silk,
gold and silver, precious and semiprecious stones, fur—have been culturally recognised
and sought after for millennia. In prehistory, humans set themselves apart by decorating
their furs with bits of bone and feathers. The Chinese enriched their appearance with
silk embroidery as long as 12,000 years ago, as did the Persians and the Egyptians in the
second century BC,” Thomas writes. “The display of luxury signified one’s power and
achievements and brought on both scorn and envy.” Thomas’s account of the turn-of-themillennium appetite for luxury is clear even today. Luxury fashion has seen a steady hike
in pricing since 2019. Many have attributed this to the domino effect of the pandemic and
a global impact of inflation on a regional scale. Fast forward five years and with a gentle
amount of distance from an international crisis, however, and product pricing has been
more jarring than ever.
Take, for instance, Chemena Kamali’s debut as creative director for French maison
Chloé. The much anticipated autumn/winter 2024 show and collection, titled Intuition,
was met with rave reviews. Kamali had punctuated a full circle moment, after having
worked there twice before. Her showing was innately and thoroughly interlinked with
the DNA of the house, a bold yet humanised assortment of the ever-emulated boho chic
(popularised by the days of Nicole Richie and Sienna Miller). The result? A sumptuous
offering of long, frilled dresses, sheer separates and the ultimate covetable accessories,
from oversized sunglasses to headbands. In an interview with Vogue earlier this year,
Kamali said: “It’s how it makes you feel and how you want to feel. There’s this connection
where today, as a woman, you need to be able to follow your intuition and be yourself.
22
InVOGUE Viewpoint
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALLYSSA HEUZE/TRUNK ARCHIVE
“The way we dress reflects not only
our personality, but our economic, political
and social standing, and our self-worth.”
It’s very much about an intuitive way of dressing, about lightness, movement, fluidity and
emotion. I also love the power of nostalgia; where you go backwards, you go forwards—
you also think of today and what women want to wear now.”
Kamali’s debut lends into the ‘era’ frenzy that fashion is no stranger to. It’s the sort
of appeal that draws throngs of enthusiasts to the stewardship of different designers:
Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Raf Simons at Dior, Phoebe Philo at Celine and John Galliano at
Maison Margiela. With this, comes the rising price tag. Part of Kamali’s assortment (and
subsequently raising a few eyebrows) was a brown silk dress that retailed for US$26,000.
Following closely behind? A leather trench coat for just below US$11,000. Prior to that
was the first drop of Philo’s much-anticipated eponymous line ranging from US$450 to
US$25,000. With couture fashion offerings running an average price range of US$25,000
(for daywear) to US$250,000 (for bridal), the rising costs of ready-to-wear is a nail-biting
exercise that might be rewriting the course of fashion as we know it today. So what
exactly is driving this change? There isn’t just one answer, of course, but there are key
driving factors.
The aim for fair production, coupled with the costs of raw materials, has made a
sizeable difference. Most critical, however, is how consumers are reacting to these price
increases. And while a good number of them have been phased out, those who are able
to meet rising costs are inadvertently all that is needed to keep the cycle going. Amid
this, however, is the slow and steady takeover of secondhand consumers—a no-longer
niche group of buyers who take into account the timelessness, circularity and origin of
a product. “There’s a market that serves fashion-fluent customers who might be on the
verge of being priced out of purchasing from favourite luxury brands. It’s why platforms
such as Vestiaire Collective continue to do well. It’s season-defying, arguably better for
the planet and there’s also the ultimate kick of finding something that might no longer
be in production anymore, something that’s rarer,” shares fashion creative and ardent
secondhand shopper Delphine Ong. “There will always be aspirational consumerism,
people are always going to want to own the coolest or the hottest thing. But if you’re going
about this in a practical way, then that isn’t going to be feasible. So what’s the natural next
step? Investing in amazing finds. Sometimes even that extra bit of effort to hunt something
down makes it that much more special.”
As prices continue to soar, who will be luxury’s newest set of consumers? On
the flipside, however, there’s a certain strength in numbers; this could be the start of
thoughtfulness and an innate understanding of one’s taste and self—the gateway to a
new, and arguably even better, kind of opulence.
25
Givenchy dress,
$6,800, and jacket,
price upon request;
Bottega Veneta boots,
price upon request
InVOGUE Trends
3.
4.
2.
1.
Slip ON
Timeless and
effortlessly flattering,
the slip dress makes
a return. Switch things
up for pre-autumn by
opting for varied fabrics
such as leather or a
bold, textural print.
Photography STEFAN KHOO
Styling JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR
5.
6.
9.
8.
7.
1. Valentino 2. Burberry 3. Jil Sander dress, US$2,520 from Moda Operandi 4. Khaite dress, $5,800 5. Etro dress, US$3,250 from Moda Operandi
6. Stella McCartney 7. Balenciaga 8. Victoria Beckham dress, US$1,650 from Moda Operandi 9. Balenciaga dress, US$2,450
27
InVOGUE Trends
IN Hindsight
This season, it’s all about showing
off—your back, that is. Explore dramatic
cutouts, elaborate designs and draping to
make a statement in an unexpected way.
1.
2.
7.
3.
5.
6.
4.
1. Issey Miyake top, $1,005 from Club21 Singapore 2. Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello bodysuit, $2,230 from Luisa Via Roma
3. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini 4. Givenchy 5. Balenciaga dress, $5,550 6. Junya Watanabe skirt, £820 from Dover Street Market London
7. Rick Owens skirt, £855 from Dover Street Market London
28
THIS PAGE
Hermès top and pants,
prices upon request
FACING PAGE
Dior top, price upon
request; Sportmax skirt,
$1,179; Church’s x Miu Miu
shoes, $2,000; Miu Miu
socks, price upon request
Tod’s dress, price upon
request; Givenchy pants,
$1,590; Bottega Veneta
earring, $1,090
InVOGUE Trends
4.
1.
3.
2.
5.
6.
7.
Blank
SLATE
8.
Opt for a full white ensemble
for maximum impact.
To elevate your look,
experiment with material,
shapes and detailing.
9.
1. Victoria Beckham 2. Louis Vuitton 3. Valentino Vlogo Moon bag, $3,600 4. Courrèges pants, US$1,560 5. Bottega Veneta heels, US$1,100 from Moda Operandi
6. Alaïa belt, US$4,970 7. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini skirt, US$935 8. Prada bag, $9,000 9. Loewe shoes, $890
31
Burberry top, price upon
request; Ferragamo
shorts, $850; Chanel
scarf, $1,810; tights,
stylist’s own
1.
5.
2.
3.
32
4.
InVOGUE Trends
Tied UP
No detail is ever too small,
which is why scarves are a standout
accessory this season. Go for lighter
fabrications to make the trend work
for our climate or consider built-in
iterations for seamless wear.
6.
7.
8.
9.
1. Ludovic de Saint Sernin top, $279 from Farfetch 2. Loewe scarf, US$761 from Net-a-Porter 3. Toteme scarf, US$757 from Net-a-Porter
4. Victoria Beckham scarf, £290 5. Alaïa dress, US$2,708 from Net-a-Porter 6. Phoebe Philo scarf, £800 7. Chanel 8. Louis Vuitton 9. Stella McCartney
33
InVOGUE Trends
2.
1.
Like the
BOYS
Borrowing from menswear hasn’t gone
out of style. From textiles and sharp suits
to vests and boxer shorts, try out masculine
cornerstones for a wardrobe switch-up.
4.
5.
3.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
1. Alexander McQueen top, $2,235 2. The Row jacket, US$3,100 3. Dior 4. Bottega Veneta top, US$1,380 from Net-a-Porter
5. Miu Miu boxers, $845 6. Prada top, $2,850 7. Louis Vuitton pants, $3,150 8. Versace 9. Courrèges 10. Dries Van Noten loafers, US$955
34
Givenchy jacket, price
upon request, and shirt,
$2,450; Hermès earring,
price upon request;
Church’s x Miu Miu
shoes, $2,000; pants,
stylist’s own
Hair, Yuhi Kim using
Dungüd from Woorailoora;
make-up, Clarence Lee using
Kosas; manicure, Ann Lim
using Shellac from CND;
photographer’s assistant, Alif;
model, Meng Yao Wang/NOW
InVOGUE Style
Equestrian
KNIGHT
Burberry’s Rocking Horse bag offers a fresh take on heritage,
featuring subtle equestrian nods alongside contemporary details.
urberry’s legacy gallops forward, carrying the equestrian essence woven
into its very threads. Founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, a man as
passionate about the outdoors as he was equestrian pursuits, the brand
has become synonymous with its iconic check pattern—an enduring
motif introduced in the 1920s and now instantly recognisable the world
over. This spirit of innovation, a hallmark since its inception, continues
to fuel the British house. The latest chapter in this storied legacy? The
Rocking Horse bag, a design that reinvents equestrian influence for the modern maverick.
The brand’s Winter 2023 collection by creative director Daniel Lee ushers in a
new era, with the Rocking Horse bag emerging as a modern masterpiece. Paying homage
to the brand’s initials, the new interlocking ‘b’ hardware serves as a prominent symbol,
alongside a playful uppercase ‘B’ stitched detail on the straps. Peek inside select styles
and you’ll find a flash of tradition with the classic check lining—a subtle reminder of the
brand’s DNA.
Transcending mere arm candy, the bag boasts a marvel of engineering hidden
beneath its saddle-shaped flap. A circular fastening ingeniously pivots to secure the
bag, transforming into a lowercase ‘b’ with a satisfying click. This seemingly simple
movement is powered by an intricate mechanism discreetly embedded within the
design—a testament to Lee and his team’s dedication to pioneering design. Made from
smooth calf leather with a luxurious embossed checked leather lining, the bag’s unique
shape is meticulously constructed using precise cutting techniques and a custom-carved
wooden mould. Even the adjustable strap, featuring brushed metal prongs inspired by
horse reins, showcases meticulous attention to detail. Requiring only gentle pressure to
open, it ensures a seamless transition between shoulder and crossbody wear.
Subtle nods to Burberry’s rich heritage are woven throughout the new silhouette.
The Equestrian Knight Design, a symbol chosen nearly a century ago, is proudly embossed
on the back of the bag. From the bag’s saddle-shaped silhouette to the rein-inspired straps,
equestrian influences are readily apparent. The playful detail of the bag gently rocking
when placed on its base further reinforces this connection, evoking the image of a beloved
childhood toy—the rocking horse. This subtle movement adds a touch of whimsy while
reinforcing the heritage at the heart of Burberry’s design.
This visionary approach spills over into a global campaign that shatters cultural
barriers. A dazzling cast of international stars—Thai actor Bright Vachirawit, South
Korean actress Jun Ji-hyun, Chinese actress Tang Wei and Japanese actress Asami
Muziwaka—ignites the bag’s universal appeal. Each star brings their unique perspective,
showcasing how the design can be effortlessly integrated into a variety of looks, from
classic elegance to bold, contemporary looks. A symbol of Burberry’s rich legacy, the
Rocking Horse bag is a conversation starter for a global audience, making it the perfect
accessory for those who love to rewrite the rules while embracing heritage.
36
IMAGE COURTESY OF BURBERRY
Words NURUL FIRDOUSEE
The curved shape of
Burberry’s Rocking
Horse bag is inspired
by childhood rocking
horses and features
a ‘b’ closure.
InVOGUE Sustainability
A New FRONTIER
In commemoration of Kering’s three-year research collaboration with the
National University of Singapore, chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer
Marie-Claire Daveu delves into why Asia is the springboard for impactful change.
Words MAYA MENON
38
f you’ve been following the sustainability efforts of
major luxury fashion players, you’ll be aware of the
significant strides made by the global luxury group,
Kering, since its inception in 1963. Today, the group
oversees the development of fashion, leather goods and
jewellery brands such as Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent
and Boucheron. Under the leadership of chief sustainability
and institutional affairs officer Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering has
revolutionised best practices for sustainable fashion.
Prior to her involvement in the fashion industry, however,
Daveu had an illustrious career in agriculture and environmental
matters. To date, she has worked with the French government,
serving as chief of staff for the minister of ecology and as the
technical adviser to the prime minister. She assumed her role
at Kering in 2012. During her tenure, Daveu has overseen the
development of the group’s Environmental Profit And Loss (EP&L)
account, a tool that measures the environmental impact of its
operations. Additionally, she has overseen the conceptualisation
of the Material Innovation Lab in Milan, a dedicated hub to the
sourcing and creation of sustainable fabrics and materials.
Daveu’s visit to Singapore marks a three-year research
collaboration with the Centre of Governance and Sustainability
at the National University of Singapore (NUS) Business School.
As an incentive to combat climate change, NUS is looking to
conceptualise concrete remedies. This is set to be implemented
in three phases: two blocks of nature-related obstacles and
one on climate adaptation. The ultimate goal? To provide data
with regard to present-day nature and climate practices and
spotlight deficiencies.
In an exclusive interview with Vogue Singapore, Daveu
expands on the biggest fashion and textile pollutants, the definition
of a truly sustainable brand as well as the meaning of impact.
Hi Marie-Claire, what brings you to Singapore?
Kering is starting a new three-year partnership with the Centre
of Governance and Sustainability at the National University
of Singapore Business School and it will be focused on our
ecosystem, biodiversity and nature. So why Singapore? When
Kering’s chief
sustainability
and institutional
affairs officer,
Marie-Claire Daveu.
you are in the fashion and luxury industry, nature is key because
most of our raw materials come from there, such as leather,
gold, precious stones and cashmere. For ethical reasons, it’s
important to have a positive impact on biodiversity. And on the
business side, without raw materials, we can’t do anything.
Singapore is able to manage its urban side with its natural
side, which I think is unique. And the National University
of Singapore plays a key role in Asia Pacific to set trends in
biodiversity and the environment.
You’ve had an illustrious career within the domain of
sustainability. What first piqued your interest in this sector?
I was always passionate about animals and their welfare,
which is what prompted me to study biology. I also wanted to
work for the public sector because in France, the public sector
plays an important role in defining policies. When I started
my first job, we had to push a lot even when we were speaking
about climate change. Unfortunately, now, because we see the
consequences of climate change, there is finally a big shift all
over the world.
Kering is a leader in the luxury fashion industry when it comes
to advocating for sustainability. The company’s EP&L is a great
example of this. What are some of the benefits of the systems
that have been put in place?
There are many different answers to this. Firstly, when
Kering’s chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault decided
20 years ago to put sustainability at the arc of the company, it
was for ethical reasons. Because we are in luxury fashion, we
set the trends and have the responsibility to raise awareness.
Secondly, even though we are a big company, we are not big
enough to change the paradigm alone. This is why we have to
open source all our best practices, such as the methodology
for EP&L. When I joined the company, people were saying that
luxury is about fur. And thanks to François-Henri Pinault, we
are the first group to have banned fur. It’s what we call modern
luxury. It’s about savoir faire, heritage and quality.
What are some of the biggest pollutants from the fashion and
textile industry in 2024?
It’s about overproduction, which creates leftover waste.
Furthermore, there’s overconsumption of materials, which
39
InVOGUE Sustainability
impacts pollution, energy consumption and greenhouse gas
emissions. This is particularly significant when discussing
the textile industry as different segments operate differently.
Luxury segments, for instance, prioritise small volumes.
It’s therefore interesting to note that the fashion industry as
a whole is undergoing significant transformation. This is
evident in initiatives like Fashion Pact, which includes fast
fashion, sport brands and luxury brands, all committed to
driving change.
This brings us to the France-Singapore forum, Nature In The
City. What is your aim for this?
The first thing we want to do is to start a conversation. This
partnership will last three years, so we have a short time frame.
Perhaps you’ve already seen the results of the first report which
is a map and diagnosis of how businesses and companies are
paying attention to biodiversity in Asia Pacific. This report
aims to raise awareness and demonstrate that many other
businesses, not just in the luxury or textile industry, are heavily
reliant on nature. In the future, for example, we’ll organise
workshops, bringing together students and people from the
business side. As a partner, Kering will be involved in this, too,
to consider how we can support companies in implementing
action and raising awareness among individuals who will
eventually join companies and institutions.
One thing that Kering has dedicated itself to is its Material
Innovation Lab. Can you tell us more about this?
Our textile-focused hub opened in 2013 in Italy with dual aims:
enhancing sustainability through raw material selection and
fostering disruptive innovations. The Material Innovation
Lab now offers over 8,000 samples, enabling designers to
40
incorporate more sustainable materials into their creations.
Our focus extends beyond textiles to innovations in our
brands like mycelium-based products at Balenciaga or Gucci’s
Demetra bio-based material. By encouraging suppliers to
source sustainably, we aim to transform the entire supply
chain. Inspired by the Material Innovation Lab’s success, we
launched the Jewellery Lab in 2020 to support brands like
Boucheron, Qeelin and Pomellato. Despite initial challenges,
collaborative efforts between technical and design teams have
driven our progress.
How would you define a truly sustainable brand?
First thing, produce what you sell. Secondly, ensure full
traceability in raw materials because without it, sustainability
criteria can’t be implemented. Maximising the use of recycled
raw materials helps avoid reliance on new ones. Additionally,
brands should encourage product usage, whether through
repairs or resale. Each production should consider
environmental and social aspects, ensuring fair wages in the
supply chain. It’s easier for brands to embed sustainability
from the beginning, starting with design. Beyond products,
sustainable brands consider their shops, certification,
transportation and advertising. A holistic approach is crucial,
measuring the overall footprint, including boutiques and
marketing strategies. A clear framework and systematic
approach are essential. Brands must consider sustainability
in every decision, just as they do with cost. Starting with
sustainability from the beginning is crucial as retrofitting later
can be difficult.
What does impact mean to you?
It is to have positive benefits for people and the planet.
IMAGES COURTESY OF CAROLE BELLAICHE (MARIE-CLAIRE DAVEU) AND LORENZO PALIZZOLO (MATERIAL INNOVATION LAB)
Kering’s Material
Innovation Lab is a
dedicated hub to the
sourcing of more
sustainable fabrics
and materials.
Style
IMAGE COURTESY OF BRAUN BÜFFEL
The Spiralig
collection is
characterised by ‘U’
curves to emulate
the precision in
ceramic art.
Sculptured
ELEGANCE
For its spring/summer 2024 collection, ÁwЮ Óù¨
introduces its new Spiralig bag inspired by ceramic art.
Words NURUL FIRDOUSEE
F
or more than a century, Braun
Büffel has been synonymous
with exquisite leather goods,
renowned for its virtuosic
designs and meticulous German
craftsmanship. For spring/summer
2024, the brand introduces the Spiralig
collection, a testament to the enduring
beauty and functionality of its products.
Inspired by the grace of ceramic art, the
collection translates the elegant curves
and sculptural forms into bags made from
the finest, most supple leathers.
Imagine the soft, undulating lines
of a hand-thrown vase reimagined for
modern life. Spiralig is a love letter to
both form and function, a perfect blend
of heritage and innovation. This is the
essence of the Spiralig collection, its
name echoing the core design element—a
continuous spiral of elegance. The
precision shines through in every stitch
and seam, a hallmark of the brand’s
dedication to crafting quality pieces.
But beyond the technical prowess lies
an artistic flair, the graceful curves
and sculptural lines evoking a sense of
fluidity, blurring the boundaries between
fashion and functional art.
The Spiralig collection puts a
fresh spin on a classic favourite—the
hobo silhouette. Soft, luxurious leather
is sculpted into subtly padded ‘U’ curves,
creating a contemporary update on the
classic slouchy bag. This design element
adds a touch of structure and dimension,
elevating the hobo style to a new level
of sophistication. A unique knotted ‘O’
ring connector not only complements
the collection’s aesthetic but also subtly
echoes the season’s empowering theme,
‘ünleash your üniqueness’.
The launch of the Spiralig
collection is elevated by a unique
collaboration—an immersive ceramic
workshop—with Vogue Singapore and
Common Touch studio. Participants
explored the art form that inspired the
collection, learning the craft from skilled
ceramic artisans, Fyon Cheong and Zestro
Leow, who are the founders of Common
Touch. By witnessing the transformation
of clay into art, the participants were
given a peek into the meticulous shaping
process behind each piece in the Spiralig
collection. This collaborative event
celebrated artistic expression, fostering a
deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship
that Braun Büffel brings to its exquisite
leather works.
41
Summer
SPLASH
Rimowa welcomes summer with its
fresh seasonal hues of mint and papaya for
its Essential line of suitcases.
Words AZRIN TAN
InVOGUE Style
IMAGES COURTESY OF RIMOWA
This all-new radiant
shade of papaya takes its
cues from the sun-soaked
beaches of California.
n the world of luxury travel, German brand Rimowa
has earned itself a first-class seat at the table. From
its stylish aluminium offerings to its highly functional
range of Essential polycarbonate suitcases, the brand’s
distinctively grooved designs have travelled far and
wide, having been spotted in airports across the
globe. Most recently, Rimowa took to Miami, where it gleaned
inspiration for its latest seasonal hues—mint and papaya—for its
Essential collection.
Rimowa introduced its seasonal range of colours for the
polycarbonate Essential line in 2019, with sage, saffron, coral
and slate. With each new season, the shades have always been
reminiscent of places that embody the essence of travel—that
of the journey, rather than the final destination. Think of vast
landscapes you might spot when you look out the window on a
flight, such as Pink Lake in Western Australia, which served as the
inspiration for coral, or the canola flower fields of Tuscany, which
lead to saffron. Or how the vast landscape of the Mojave Desert
gave way to the dusty washes of desert rose and cactus.
For Rimowa’s latest offering, it is the sun-soaked
atmosphere of California’s beaches and the soft, eclectic hues
of Miami’s art district. The ensuing result is a bright, radiant
orange and a dreamy, delicate green, which have been employed
to dress the polycarbonate’s entire exterior for a flawless,
monochromatic aesthetic.
Guaranteed to make a splash wherever it goes, Rimowa
consequently hosted an event in Seoul for the grand preview of its
latest summertime hues—in line with its early launch exclusive in
South Korea. Earlier in April, the buzzy S-Factory in the burgeoning
district of Seongsu was transformed into a cascade of pastels that
took its cues from the Essential line’s new colours.
In attendance was a bevy of stars, including South Korean
star Rowoon, Thai actor Mile Phakphum, members of K-pop
groups Exo, Seventeen and Treasure, and Rimowa’s famed
house ambassadors, Blackpink starlet Rosé and F1 stalwart
Lewis Hamilton.
Notably, each star was spotted with different variations
of other polycarbonate styles that have also received the brand’s
latest seasonal colour treatment, such as its Personal collection,
which now comes in an uplifting colourway of white gloss and
mint. Whilst this trusty range served as the perfect arm candy
for the evening, it is Rimowa’s range of alternative accessories
and unique embellishments such as packing cubes, wheel sets,
luggage tags and a Miami-themed sticker set—rendered in the
splashy new colours—that will deliver a seamlessly coordinated
aesthetic on one’s future travels.
43
InVOGUE Style
PLAY
My MUSIC
Inspired by island vibes and a playful summer style,
Loewe takes vibrancy and flair to another level
with its Paula’s Ibiza 2024 collection.
Words NURUL FIRDOUSEE
IMAGES COURTESY OF LOEWE
The Paula’s Ibiza 2024
collection boasts a wide
array of bold designs
and vibrant hues.
oewe has unveiled its latest Paula’s Ibiza collection,
a vibrant ode to island vibes and a playful summer
style. Drawing inspiration from the carefree nature of
music and all things colourful, the collection bursts
with bold graphics and energetic hues.
A star-studded campaign photographed by Gray
Sorrenti captures the collection’s laidback spirit.
Featuring a diverse cast, from Grammy-winning artist and
American singer Yebba Smith to Loewe global brand ambassador
and member of Korean boy group NCT Taeyong, it highlights the
line’s relevance to a global audience.
The Paula’s Ibiza womenswear assortment dazzles
with eye-catching prints and edgy designs. This rainbow-hued
collection boasts an extensive variety of pieces, including dresses
and tops with bold, asymmetrical cuts and distinctive prints. The
range also features the work of artist Douglas Abraham, adorning
T-shirts, shorts, sweatshirts and swimwear in playful teddy bear,
planet and dice motifs.
The collection’s playful spirit extends beyond its clothing
and into a vibrant array of accessories. Among these are woven
leather charms inspired by fruits, vegetables and even parrots.
These embellishments add a whimsical touch and personalised
flair to your handbags. For eyewear, the collection introduces
its newest addition, a sleek wraparound Sporty Mask carefully
crafted from acetate, fusing practicality with modern style.
And it doesn’t stop there. Ranging from breezy espadrilles
and light, airy sandals to foam slides and delicate open mules
adorned with floral embroidered canvas, the collection’s footwear
selection offers a spectrum of sophisticated styles. In contrast
to the radiant assortment, the collection diverges into an urban
chic feel, with leather biker boots in soft suede as well as slip-on
sneakers, also available for men.
Leather also takes centre stage when it comes to Paula’s
Ibiza 2024 bags. The collection introduces new woven raffia
versions of Loewe’s Puzzle and Puzzle Fold tote, as well as its
Font tote and Iraca basket, presenting a fresh take on its classic
designs. Available in new colours, these refreshed renditions blend
the luxurious texture of leather with the rough charm of raffia.
Further enhancing its appeal, the reimagined version of Puzzle
is decorated with graphic stripes, intricately woven in harmony
with the cuts of the tote, adding a dynamic and vibrant touch
to the bag.
A vibrant celebration of summer’s carefree essence and
dynamic vitality, Paula’s Ibiza 2024 collection invites wearers to
embrace the spontaneity of the season and dance to the beat of
their own style. The campaign seamlessly weaves in elements of
music, underscoring the collection’s inspiration and enhancing its
joyful vibe. With its captivating prints, personalised accents and
vibrant designs, this collection transforms everyday fashion into
self-expression and adventure.
45
InVOGUE Style
THIS PAGE
Onitsuka Tiger top,
pants and Tiger
Rodeo heels
FACING PAGE
Onitsuka Tiger top;
earring, stylist’s own
MOMO
In tandem with Onitsuka Tiger’s
75th anniversary, the singer, rapper
and dancer of K-pop nonet, Twice,
reflects on a decade in the industry,
her evolving style as well as the little
moments that keep her grounded.
Photography YOON SONGYI
Styling CHOI MINHYE
Words MAYA MENON
InVOGUE Style
t’s been a busy year for the nine-member K-pop girl
group, Twice. In just the past few months, the group
has scored its inaugural Billboard number one
debut via With YOU-th, a booming EP consisting of
energising synth-pop and drum and bass anthems
such as ‘I Got You’ and ‘One Spark’. At the heart of
it? A celebration of female friendship and a noholds-barred love letter to each other. It seems
fitting that almost a decade since their debut in 2015—via JYP
entertainment’s survival show, Sixteen—Momo, Sana, Mina,
Nayeon, Tzuyu, Chaeyoung, Jeongyeon, Dahyun and Jihyo have
formed an unbreakable bond.
It’s their camaraderie that has earned the third-generation
band the nod of Nation’s Girl Group, underscored by numerous
accolades, from sweeping international success to bona fide chart
dominance. Playing an integral part in this is 27-year-old singer,
rapper and dancer Momo Hirai, who is better known as Momo. The
Japan-born starlet has won the hearts of fans all over the world for
her dance prowess, but she’s since shown her mettle in other areas.
In October 2022, she was named the ambassador for Japanese
brand, Onitsuka Tiger, decked out in its high-impact spring/
summer 2024 offerings. Hirai, who is known for her off-duty yet
striking outfits, is steadily becoming one to watch in the fashion
universe. “I always try out different styles because you never know
if it’ll look good on you or not until you give it a go. These days, I get
a lot of inspiration from old music videos and magazines.”
Now, fresh from the Fashion Week circuit and having
wrapped up the Ready to Be world tour, Hirai is gearing up for
her most impactful season yet. Here, she talks about a decade of
growth, the importance of rest and what she’s looking forward
to next.
Hi Momo! It’s been nearly a decade since Twice debuted. Could
you share how this has influenced your career?
There’s a certain emotion that comes up during concerts that
I don’t feel on a daily basis. When interacting with our fans, I
feel infinitely grateful for them. Since we have been doing a
lot of individual schedules these days, I don’t see my fellow
members every day anymore. So when I do meet up with them,
it always feels like home and I feel a sense of security. On a
personal level, I think I have matured mentally and grown a lot
while experiencing unexpected hardships and happenings.
What have been some of your favourite songs or milestones
from the past decade?
My favourite song is ‘Feel Special’. The lyrics are really
meaningful and our fans love it when we sing it at concerts.
Dancing is one of the biggest reasons why I am a part of Twice.
I would say I’m the happiest when I’m dancing.
Your fashion sense has evolved over the years. How did you
discover your personal style?
48
After I debuted, not only did I have the opportunity to try a lot of
different pieces, but I also learnt a lot from our fans’ reactions
to different looks. I love discovering new clothes and brands.
Tell us about your ongoing relationship with Onitsuka Tiger.
In the beginning, I had the chance to work on a magazine
shoot with Onitsuka Tiger. I instantly fell in love with the
brand, so it’s such a big honour to be working with them as
their ambassador. I love that Onitsuka Tiger’s pieces come in
beautiful colours that are unique to the brand. Their designs
are simple yet serve as the perfect finish to every outfit.
What were your favourite moments from our Vogue Singapore
photo shoot?
I tried on a chic make-up look during this shoot which I usually
don’t wear often, but my stylists were cheering me on the
whole time, complimenting me on how cool the images looked.
How do you maintain your physical and mental well-being amid
the demanding tour schedules?
My mental well-being is not an issue for me thanks to my fellow
members. If there is something on our minds, we listen to each
other and talk it out with one another. It’s important to express
your feelings when you’re having a hard time. Physically, I try
to rest and relax when I’m not working. I work out when I have
a lot of time on my hands, but I don’t push and force myself to
exercise. Working out intensively and forcefully makes you
more tired, so I like to go when I feel at peace mentally.
Reflecting on the Ready To Be world tour in 2023, were there
any standout moments for you during your visit to Singapore?
I always eat chilli crab and fried rice with my fellow members
whenever I visit Singapore. During this tour, we ate it as soon
as we got to the hotel. Also, whenever I visit, I think back on the
time we went there to film a reality show in our early days.
What are some of your favourite memories from the world tour?
Every city we go to has a different crowd, so interacting with
them is always a fun aspect of touring. Also, I love that we are
able to try delicious traditional foods from different cultures.
Are there any specific goals or aspirations you hope to pursue?
My goal is to meet as many Once fans from as many countries
as possible together with my fellow members and just have a
fun time performing. Also, I would love to rank number one on
Billboard 100.
What’s next that fans can look forward to?
Twice, Misamo and I have a lot of group and individual
schedules prepared for the future and will always continue to
try our best, so please look forward to our upcoming schedules
and I hope to see our fans more often.
Onitsuka Tiger dress,
vest, socks and Tiger
Rodeo heels
Hair, Lim Jinhee/Kitts;
make-up, Won Jungyo/
Bit&Boot; photographer’s
assistants, Park Sungeun,
Baek Juwon and Shin
Hyeoni; retoucher, Kim
Jisoo; stylist’s assistant,
Jeong Chaewon; hairstylist’s
assistant, Kang Chaeyeon;
make-up artist’s assistant,
Lee Haeram; production,
A Prject; executive producer,
Kelly Suh; production
coordinator, Indigo Choi.
InVOGUE Trends
TheEDIT
Make an impact with the most collector-worthy statement bags
from fashion’s biggest legacy brands.
Edit NICHOLAS SEE
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1. Vintage Chanel bag, $525,795 from Farfetch 2. Vintage Dior bag, $35,343 from Farfetch 3. Bottega Veneta bag, $11,270 4. Schiaparelli bag, €8,500
5. Louis Vuitton bag, $9,600 6. Loewe bag, $5,900 7. Loro Piana bag, US$3,400 8. Miu Miu bag, $4,700 9. Vintage Saint Laurent bag, $2,424 from Farfetch
10. Gucci bag, $3,350 11. Burberry bag, $7,500 12. Ferragamo bag, US$3,800 13. Prada bag, $3,950 14. Balenciaga bag, $7,600
15. Fendi bag, $8,250 16. Givenchy bag, $3,000 17. Delvaux bag, €2,700 18. The Row bag, US$5,190
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BEAUTY Muse
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MICHELLE PHAN
The Vietnamese-American entrepreneur has come a long way since launching her YouTube
channel in 2007, paving the way for aspiring beauty YouTubers along the way. Vogue Singapore
sits down with the legend to get the lowdown on her beauty philosophy, go-to fragrance and more.
Collage NAWANG CAHYANI Words EMILY HENG
1. My three desert island beauty essentials First, a tinted lip treatment. The Em Cosmetics Lip Cushion Tinted Lip Luminizer, which I developed, does
the job. I love my lip balms with a touch of colour. I don’t have a lot of brow hair, so I use a warm-toned taupe eyeliner as a brow pencil and eyeliner. And lastly, a
tinted sunscreen with at least SPF 50 since I’m on an island. A book I’m currently reading Achieving Oneness With The Higher Soul by Master Choa Kok Sui.
I try to find new tools to help with my spiritual practices. 2. The best beauty hack I picked up on recently To apply my base make-up with the
Piccasso Makeup Spatula. It makes my skin look smoother and airbrushed because of how thin and even the layer is. 3, 4 & 5. My signature fragrance I
have more than one. Off the top of my head, it has to be the Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait. It carries a majestic energy that I love wearing
for special occasions. My everyday scent is the D.Grayi White Rabbit. It is inspired by my favourite candy from childhood called White Rabbit and is a wonderful
mood-boosting fragrance. My second daily scent is the Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724. It has a clean linen scent that makes me feel fresh. A skincare step
you never skip Sunscreen. I’ve been wearing it since I was a teenager. It’s a habit, like brushing my teeth. What self-care looks like to you Taking a
soothing bath and lighting my favourite scented candle. Spending an hour doing my make-up, because why not? Indulging in moments where I just love myself,
essentially. The one beauty lesson you wished you picked up on earlier I wish I had known about finding my personal colour when I was younger.
Your beauty philosophy Less is more. Bring more focus to your favourite beauty attribute. I’m also a huge believer in radiating good energy like kindness and
grace. 6. The most impactful make-up item in my arsenal These days, it’s the Em Cosmetics Portrait Mode Setting Powder. Even on days when I wear
zero base make-up, I want my skin to look matte but not chalky, and for it to have a blurring effect to reduce the size of my pores. This powder gives me a finished
look and it doesn’t feel like anything on my face.
52
Swatched
1.
8.
2.
KISS &
Make Up
3.
4.
It’s time to bring timeless
rouges back in rotation. These
latest variants pack a pigment
punch while moisturising and
nourishing your lips.
Photography and styling STUDIO OOOZE
Words EMILY HENG
7.
6.
5.
1. Anastasia Beverly Hills Matte Lipstick in Royal Red, $37 from Sephora 2. Gucci Beauty Rouge à Lèvres Mat Matte Lipstick in 209 Mona Lisa Cameo, $65
3. Dior Rouge Dior in 028 Actrice Satiny Finish, $66 4. Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution Lipstick in Supermodel, $55 from Sephora
5. Nars Powermatte Lipstick in 133 Too Hot to Hold, $48 from Sephora 6. Pat McGrath Labs Satinallure Lipstick in Nude Fantasia, $45 from Sephora
7. Hermès Rouge Hermès Matte Lipstick in 97 Pourpre Figue, $75 8. Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet in 57 Rouge Feu, $67
53
BEAUTY Trends
Serene sanctuary
Traditional Chinese medicine. Ayurveda.
Reiki. Rekoop, the latest social wellness
hub to hit our shores, has them all.
Beyond a comprehensive range of holistic
practices, this tranquil oasis also houses
a variety of facilities designed to soothe
and enlighten the mind, body and soul.
Think infrared saunas, ice baths, vitamin
showers and cryo chambers, to name just
a few. What’s more, each guest will be
guided along by a dedicated concierge
who will provide recommendations to
meet any needs related to movement,
nourishment, community, mindfulness,
habits, feelings, energy and aspiration.
Rest or recharge here, the choice is yours.
Rekoop is located at 18 Robinson Road,
Level 4, Singapore 048547.
BeautyDESK
Get your finger on the pulse. Vogue Singapore
takes you through what’s buzzy, bold and bursting with
untapped potential in the beauty sphere this month.
Words EMILY HENG
All fired up
The courageous and fiercely independent
Amazonians served as the inspiration
behind Hermès’s latest limited-edition
lipstick drop: the Rouge Hermès Rouge
Amazone, $132. Revered for their physical
prowess and tenacity in battle, it seems
only fitting that the lipstick bullet comes
in an intense red that vibrates with
panache and verve, of which is engraved
with an illustration of the Duc attelé
by Alfred de Dreux—the drawing that
prompted artisan Émile Hermès to create
the house’s emblem. Its matte, powdery
finish translates into a pigment-packed
formula that clings on for hours, making
it a timeless and immaculate addition to
anyone’s make-up arsenal.
54
Mane attraction
If there’s one thing the designers who
showed their spring/summer 2024
collections can agree on, it is that hair
accessories are the epitome of style
du jour. At Giambattista Valli, tresses
were adorned with blooms and bows,
perched jauntily atop ponytails and
weaved in between braids. Chanel,
on the other hand, opted for an
amalgamation of the two with silk
rosettes. And not forgetting Givenchy, of
course. The house paid homage to the
zig-zag headbands of the ’90s with gold
renditions used to push back sleekstraight ’dos.
Under the sea
Mermaidcore is back and better than ever.
Shower-fresh strands were spotted at
Ashi Studio and Miu Miu’s spring/summer
2024 shows, while Elie Saab and Masha
Popova opted to send their models down
the runway sporting seafoam blue hues
on their lids and nails respectively topped
with a holographic finish—a look that’s
reminiscent of shimmering fish scales.
Coming up roses
A flower like no other. Renowned familyowned French haute parfumerie Henry Jacques
has dropped a new limited-edition range in
celebration of the discovery of the HJ Rose
de Mai absolute, a delightful blossom that
spawned the birth of a limited-edition trio
of fragrances with only 500 sets available.
The triad that makes up Collection de l’Atelier,
$14,220, comprises Rose Soleil, a warm,
spicy, concoction containing sandalwood and
patchouli; Rose Très Rose, a deeply evocative
and sensual fragrance; and Rose Azur, which
skilfully weaves dry, woody notes alongside
citrusy-fresh zest.
BEAUTY Wellness
FOOD for THOUGHT
In a world of appetite-curbing jellies and meal replacement shakes, are we making advancements
within the nutritional space or simply glamorising disordered eating? Vogue Singapore finds out.
Words EMILY HENG
Content Warning: This story contains mentions of disordered eating and body image issues, and may be triggering or disturbing for some.
“I
f any Gen Z is wondering why every Millennial woman
has an eating disorder, it’s because in the 2000s a
normal thing to say to a teenage girl was: when you
think you feel hungry, you’re actually thirsty so just
drink water and you’ll be fine,” tweets Lucy Huber, an American
writer, podcaster and aspiring comedian.
Her post went viral in 2021, accruing 70,500 likes and
replies within a matter of days. A pitch-perfect encapsulation of
this particular point in time, Huber’s post captures the fatphobia
that ran rampant in the early aughts. Think Britney Spears
being shamed for her paunch at her 2007 MTV Video Music
Awards performance, or movie plot lines that paint average-sized
women such as America Ferrera and Anne Hathaway as ‘chubby’
and ‘unattractive’. Such messaging was pervasive, spawning
reactionary measures in the form of crash diets and extreme
workout regimes.
For some, these sentiments are impossible to fathom.
Body positivity permeated the mainstream consciousness a
decade ago, after all, and has endured to our current day and age.
Major clothing corporations have rolled out more inclusive size
options, while the celebrities of today are outwardly vocal about
acceptance and self-love at every size.
Amid all this, however, are new entries into the wellness
space including metabolism-enhancing powders, appetitereducing vitamins and detox teas. It brings forth the question: have
we truly changed our attitudes with regard to fatness or have we
merely revised the way we choose to engage in disordered eating?
Calorie count
“The term disordered eating is more of a behaviour than it is a
diagnosis,” explains Charlotte Mei, accredited nutritionist and
presenter. “It is one of the results of our messy and complicated
relationship with food and could be due to various reasons, from
societal pressure to being on the receiving end of body shaming.”
Mei is quick to point out that there is a difference between
disordered eating and an eating disorder. While the latter has
specific criteria, the former is no less dangerous because of the
potential health issues that could arise.
“Disordered eating behaviours include a preoccupation
with food as well as one’s weight and body image in a way that
56
negatively impacts an individual’s quality of life,” she clarifies.
“There are feelings of guilt and shame around food or having rigid
rules around food.”
It’s safe to say that the conception of newfangled dietary
supplements only exacerbates the actions of those who already
harbour such a mindset. What’s worse, said products tend to be
packaged in a way that exploits the current wellness wave which
emphasises self-care. Diet pills are marketed as hunger-quelling
vitamins. Laxatives as detox milkshakes. Fat burning tablets as
digestive aids.
“The creation of such dietary-focused items plays a part in
encouraging disordered eating, but I think it has to do more with
the Internet and social media. Access to information has changed
the way we do everything, including encouraging different
experiments in disordered eating,” muses Sheeba Majmudar,
accredited nutritionist and naturopath. “Social media has
facilitated the embracing of targeted information.”
Admittedly, it is tough not to be swayed when the likes of
Bella Hadid are touting a fistful of vitamins and a single bite of
a croissant for breakfast on TikTok, or when Gwyneth Paltrow
advocates for a liquid lunch on a podcast. Body positivity can only
live up to its full potential when it is built on a stronger foundation
that goes beyond lip service; one that is impervious to the latest
fads and trends instigated by social media users.
Let them eat cake?
Rome was not built in a day, and neither will a healthier mentality
centring on body acceptance. In the meantime, however, Mei
recommends the following ethos to anyone struggling.
“Honour your hunger and fullness. Recognising this helps
to repair trust in your body. Challenge the food police, and explore
your beliefs and rules. Where do they stem from, how did they get
reinforced and are they true?” she asks. “Make peace with food
and give yourself unconditional permission to eat something.
This removes the intense yo-yo feeling of deprivation that builds
into uncontrollable cravings over time, which often results in
bingeing. And lastly, discover the satisfaction factor. When one
allows oneself to eat what one really wants, in an environment
that is inviting, the pleasure one derives will be a powerful force.
Contentment will follow.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY NAGI SAKAI/ART PARTNER LICENSING/TRUNK ARCHIVE
“Challenge the food police, and explore your
beliefs and rules. Where do they stem from, how
did they get reinforced and are they true?”
57
Photography LUCILE LEBER
As the mercury rises, so too should the saturation in your favourite shades.
Turn it up with these dynamic brights.
HOT CHILD in the CITY
BEAUTY
’90s
REVISITED
Make ash-hued eyes
and bold, blue-toned
red lips great again.
We love Rouge Dior
Long Wear in 999
topped with a coat of
Lip Glow Oil in 000
Universal Clear for
good measure.
59
BEAUTY
BLUSH
AND BLOOM
Add instant life to
your cheeks with a
flush of Rose Hermès
Silky Blush Powder
in contrasting yet
complementary
tones of peach and
pink. Anchor the look
with shade 32 Rose
Pommette and use 19
Rose Abricot in place
of a highlighter.
60
MASQUE UP
Undo the effects of heat
damage—we’re talking
brittle locks, split and
damaged ends—with
K18’s Leave-In Molecular
Repair Hair Mask.
BEAUTY
ZOOM IN
Refresh parched
skin and help your
make-up go the
distance in our humid
climate with a spritz
of Jungsaemmool
Essential Mool Micro
Fitting Mist. Made of
hot spring water from
the Czech Republic,
the make-up maestro
herself recommends
popping this in the
fridge for an instant
perk-me-up.
63
CHERRY DIP
Stare down summer
in lids draped with
impactful tones of red.
Viseart’s Eyeshadow
Palette in the aptly
named 08 Editorial
Brights from Sephora
should do the trick.
64
MAKE-UP, NOMAS; HAIR, MANON MARTIN; WORDS, ALLI SIM.
BEAUTY
GETTY IMAGES
Watches & Jewellery Special
67 WONDERS ABOUND 76 EAU DE ATELIER 84 FINAL TOUCH 86 SUCCESSIONS
87 THE CASE FOR CHANGE 88 RISING STARS 90 A WORLD UNTO ITSELF 93 A CUT ABOVE
94 THE KING OF METALS 100 GUIDING HAND 102 LUCKY CHARMS 104 WANDERING EYE
Editor’s LETTER
t’s a dangerous line of thought to ponder the point of
luxury. The expense, the drama, the superlative excess
of it all. Recently, the word ‘wonder’ seems to have
cropped up a lot. There is, of course, the Watches &
Wonders fair in Geneva, where watchmakers present
their best and latest for the year.
But the field has shifted and the audience has grown
immensely. It’s no longer just about wrist-bound status symbols
for a privileged few. Ideas are leading the charge, and there is
expectation now for makers to entertain, impress and push
the envelope. Small proof of it: what used to be a trade fair for
industry insiders was opened, for only the second time this year,
to the public. Geneva is far away from Singapore, but our edit of
the noteworthy, especially those with the audacity to tinker with
horology’s close-held traditions, brings the action close to you.
In Tokyo, where everyone and their mother seems to have
been, I had the pleasure of taking in an illuminating exhibition
of Tiffany & Co’s 187-year history. The show was serendipitously
titled ‘Wonder’; and in the opening remarks of the CEO and one
of Tiffany & Co’s creative directors, the perspectives of business
and creativity echoed each other remarkably. The gist: that it
is the onus and duty of a luxury house and jeweller to surprise
and delight.
These ideas formed the impetus of this debut edition
of a Watches & Jewellery Special at Vogue Singapore. A sense
of never-ending curiosity and a capacity for astonishment are
qualities to be treasured and nurtured. Being as inundated as we
are with mindless content, an appreciation for beauty and human
ingenuity should stop you in your tracks and offer an aesthetic
respite. But more importantly, the hope is that these stories of
design, craftsmanship and inventiveness stoke a little flame of
wonder in you.
Gordon Ng
Watches & Jewellery Editor, Vogue Singapore
66
Watches
Jewellery Special
WONDERS
ABOUND
The newest, most wondrous designs from watchmakers this year.
IMAGE COURTESY OF CHANEL
Words GORDON NG
Chanel’s Couture
O’Clock watchmaking
capsule reimagines
timepieces as the tools of
a couturier’s trade.
Watches
Jewellery Special
he world of watchmaking turns on a single event
held annually. For one week, nearly every major
brand is gathered in the Palexpo convention centre
in Geneva for Watches & Wonders. Many come from
the neighbouring regions of Switzerland, which is
the home and hub of the trade. All this to say that
in fine watchmaking, the world condenses and even the smallest
shifts make big waves.
A sense of that came this year when Rolex unveiled a
platinum model of its Perpetual 1908 dress watch, complete with
a baby blue guilloché textured dial. It heralded, quite clearly, the
return to form of elegance. Classic dress watches with a neovintage bent that are sophisticated and timeless. Consider these a
new generation of investment pieces.
68
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
At Patek Philippe, the unconventional dress shape of the Golden
Ellipse collection received an exciting update. The reference
5738/1R-001 in rose gold now sees the return of an intricate and
tremendously refined chain-style bracelet.
It’s a reinterpretation of decades of chain bracelet making
at Patek Philippe, with the added benefits of a modern, patented
construction. The hand-polished bracelet took 15 years of
development and is made up of 363 parts. More than 300 of these
are individual links, assembled and connected one by one on
joining rows. The result of this contemporary design is a supple,
comfortable fit—and which allows for easier changes to the length
of the bracelet, with three adjustment notches built into the clasp.
Perfect, of course, if you intend to pass one down.
IMAGE COURTESY OF PATEK PHILIPPE
The RETURN
of ELEGANCE
IMAGES COURTESY OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN; GRAND SEIKO; PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual Winding
Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection is an ode to classic
watchmaking from the 1950s, a line where the brand distils its
know-how into as understated a form as possible. A sense of
historical elegance is built in, almost archetypal in design with
the subtlest of details. The cases, for example, are gently curved
to better hug the wrist. As are the hands and markers on the dial,
which are shaped to accommodate this consideration.
This year, it is introducing two new 39mm models to its
Patrimony collection in white and rose gold. The significant
addition is old-silver-toned dials with a hint of a champagne hue
that plays subtly against the pink gold hands and markers. To
these are added new leather straps in the leading colours of the
moment: olive green and azure blue.
Grand Seiko Starry Night SBGW314J
In 1960, the first Grand Seiko was born from the determination
of Japanese designers and engineers to create an almost platonic
ideal of precision, durability and beauty. That first Grand Seiko
is the literal cornerstone of the brand, which has returned
occasionally to these roots. This year, the Japanese watchmaker
is introducing a limited-edition recreation of the first Grand Seiko
with a starry night theme.
Model SBGW314J is cased in rose gold and features a
shimmery navy dial. Part of the brand’s Elegance collection, it
maintains the vintage stylings of its 1960 source material. The blue
dial is meant to evoke the eternal passage of time, with polished
rose gold indexes and hands that add touches of light to the twilight
scene. It’s completed with a pair of crocodile leather straps—in
navy blue to match the dial, and in brown for a traditional look.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
Perhaps the most ferociously chic interpretation of a clean, classic
dress watch comes from Parmigiani Fleurier. The independent
watchmaker is just 28 this year, but it has in its blood a sense of
old-world decorum and elegance.
This year, the brand announced a relaunch of the Toric—
the collection that it debuted with back in 1996—anchored by a
Petite Seconde model. The modern interpretation maintains just
one aesthetic signature from the original: a neatly knurled bezel.
The Toric is now offered only in platinum or rose gold, with a soft
green and beige palette on the dials and straps to match. What’s
especially striking are the gold dials, which are coated and
brushed with an esoteric finishing method the brand rediscovered.
It creates a grained and textured surface that gently disperses
light, a gorgeous application of craftsmanship that strikes the
right notes of elegance for the moment.
69
4.
70
5.
8.
6.
7.
9.
1. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm 2. Chanel J12 X-Ray Pink Edition 3. Patek Philippe Ref 5980/60G Nautilus Flyback Chronograph
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm 5. Cartier Santos-Dumont 6. Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire
7. IWC Portugieser Chronograph 8. Nomos Glashütte Tangente Date 38mm in Katzengold 9. Omega Seamaster 38mm
2.
1.
3.
Watches
Jewellery Special
IMAGE COURTESY OF CHOPARD
TASTE
the RAINBOW
here
are
three
arching
ideas when it comes to the
colour trends of the watches
announced this year. First, a
taste for sweet shades. Baby
blues, teals and pinks appeared
a surprising number of times. On fresh and
peppy new Royal Oak and Code 11.59 models
by Audemars Piguet; an effervescent, almost
aquamarine shade on Chopard’s Happy Sport;
and certainly at IWC, where the Portugieser
comes in a new saccharine blue.
Second, that the variety of colours on
the market speaks to a desire for character.
Take it from the German watchmaker Nomos,
which has created a limited-edition collection
of its Tangente watch with an astounding
31 different colourways. What’s impressive
is that the brand did more than just pick 31
shades to slap on the dials. Instead, each
model is designed with a palette of its own, a
combination of at least two to three colours
that gives each a unique personality.
Lastly, the simple fact that the topic of
colours on watches is no longer restricted to
just the dial. We can look to Cartier’s newest
Santos Dumont models for a stellar example.
The blue and green translucent sunray
dials are beautiful works in their own right.
But the Parisian brand has continued and
extended those shades onto the bezel and
case as lacquered surface details and paired
it, as many watchmakers do these days, with
leather straps in matching colours.
But the vanguard for colours, as
primally emotional as they may be, might be in
the science realm. Take Hublot, for example.
It has a new MP11 model—the brand’s
unconventional mechanical wonder, which
features seven stacked barrels for a 14-day
power reserve—in water blue sapphire. Cool
and limpid, this new material involved work
on chemical formulas to achieve the desired
transparency and level of polish. It’s paired, as
you’d imagine, with a transparent water blue
rubber strap.
The dancing diamonds of
Chopard’s Happy Sport
meet aquamarines.
Audacious
IDEAS
Vacheron Constantin’s perfume watch
Vacheron Constantin unveiled a novel design this year:
the world’s first perfume watch. The concept timepiece,
named Pleats of Time, was developed in a three-way
concert between the brand, its ambassador the haute
couture designer Yin Yiqing, and master perfumer
Dominique Ropion.
It’s a high-concept imagining of how three
different ‘haute’ fields—horlogerie, couture and
parfumerie—can converge. The embroidered strap
is where the magic resides: pebbly capsules house
the fragrance’s juice. It’s designed to respond to the
movements and the heat of being worn on the wrist, and
slowly releases the scent throughout the day.
The perfume by Ropion—a legend of the
fragrance industry—is a mineral and marine duet. It has
powdery, wintry notes of honeysuckle and immortelle,
sunny citrus notes, and the smoky, incense effects of
olibanum, myrrh and opoponax. “A fragrance that would
be universal,” described Ropion in press notes, “like
time itself.”
For Yin, the concept of an ephemeral scent
encapsulated on a watch was to “accept the passage
of time in order to breathe and be receptive to wonder”.
As to the watch itself, the Pleats of Time is a modified
Égérie that is simultaneously more and less detailed than
production models. The dial is simplified in the sense
that there are no hour markers. But it’s also intensely
decorated: a dreamy, pleated lilac mother-of-pearl dial,
92 diamonds set into its bezel, and a moonphase subdial
with pink gold moons and mother-of-pearl clouds.
72
IMAGES COURTESY OF CARTIER; VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Cartier’s time in reverse
Cartier has a bounty of icons in its modern collection. But the watch
with the greatest history is perhaps the Santos. The first modern
wristwatch created in 1904, it popularised the style of wearing a
watch on the wrist among men and essentially invented the whole
category. Now, the French maison is proving that even the most
historical of watches is not above a sly wink and a humorous twist.
Enter the Santos-Dumont Rewind, a gorgeous creation
cased in platinum, with a ruby cabochon-set crown and entrancing
carnelian dial. So far, so normal. But observe the dial and the
movements of the apple-shaped hands, and you’ll see that this
Rewind has its Roman numerals arranged in reverse. Its hands,
correspondingly, move backwards to keep time.
The Santos-Dumont Rewind is powered by the calibre
230 MC, a modified version of one of the brand’s slim, manualwinding movements. On the caseback, the signature of the watch’s
namesake Alberto Santos-Dumont is engraved twice—once in
mirrored reverse, naturally.
Watches
Jewellery Special
Van Cleef & Arpels’ fanciful automatons
The rarefied name of Van Cleef & Arpels tends to summon an
impression of feminine, elegant jewellery—more often than not
with motifs such as flora, fauna, fairies or ballerinas. What’s lesser
known about this Parisian high jeweller is the esoteric, arcane
passion it has nurtured in the field of automaton table clocks.
This year, the maison unveiled two new automaton
designs. The first, named Apparition des Baies, is a tropical
bouquet of precious metals and gemstones. At the top of its threetiered structure sits an orb, formed by rose gold fronds with multihued airbrushed leaves. When activated, a dulcet melody plays to
accompany a magical sequence of events. First, these branches
pivot, rotate and lower into formation like a splayed fern. Inside,
IMAGES COURTESY OF VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
“A fairy queen
holding court, staging
a mesmerising,
enchanted dance.”
a bird of white gold, diamonds and sapphires is revealed. It flaps
its wings, rises into the air and lands softly before being safely
ensconced once more when the leaves fold back into place.
The second automaton leans into the house’s penchant for
fantasy. Named Bouton d’Or, it draws as much from the paillette
motif of its jewellery as it does from a house tradition of crafting
precious fairies. It has a similar three-tiered structure as before,
but the star of the show is entirely different. In its closed form, a
ball of rose gold, laced with four crisscrossing lines of diamonds,
hoists a bristling bouquet of finely polished gold discs.
When activated, these branches open to reveal a vivacious
stage of colour. The undersides of those gold stems and discs
are lacquered, and there are flowers with lacquered petals and
precious gems set into the ‘stigma’. In the centre, a gold fairy twirls
in flight on beating wings of plique-à-jour enamel that look like
stained glass windows, clasping a briolette sapphire in her hands
and outfitted in a dress trimmed with blue lacquer. Behold, a fairy
queen holding court, staging a mesmerising, enchanted dance.
The vision it creates is otherworldly—and there is, indeed, almost
nothing out there quite like it.
73
Jewellery Special
Piaget’s super-slim marvel
There’s an arms race in watchmaking in the area of thinness.
For years now, several brands have dedicated themselves to the
deceptively simple competition of who can make the thinnest
watch. An ultra-thin watch, by itself, is no mean feat. One of the
pioneers is Swiss maker Piaget, which broke historic ground in
1957 when it introduced the Calibre 9P on its Altiplano timepieces.
At two millimetres thin—the thickness of a coin—it was the
thinnest mechanical movement in the world at the time and
opened the doors for a host of super slim designs to develop.
In recent times, the competition has obviously caught
up. But that doesn’t mean that Piaget is ready to relinquish its
position just yet. For proof, look to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Tourbillon, the house’s latest piece of technical and mechanical
bravado and wizardry.
The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is, watch and
all, just two millimetres thin. There are ultra-thin contenders
with a lower figure, perhaps, but not without the flying tourbillon
complication that Piaget has managed to fit in there. And it’s a
complication with, well, a complication. The implementation
of a tourbillon demands about a fourth more power from the
movement—in practical terms, that would have meant a much
shorter power reserve.
74
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept in profile,
its two-millimetre thinness pictured here to scale.
To counter this power issue, the watch was almost entirely
redesigned from its predecessor, which is not even a decade
old. The mechanics were integrated into the cobalt PVD-treated
case of the watch. New machines were devised to fabricate the
extraordinarily minuscule parts, which are diamond-polished and
chamfered to its finish by hand. And in several places, traditional
pins are replaced by ball bearings that facilitate movement. An
accumulation of tiny, monumental changes that ensured that
this super slender flying tourbillon timepiece can still boast a
respectable 40-hour power reserve.
IMAGES COURTESY OF PIAGET
Watches
IMAGES COURTESY OF CHANEL
LONG on
the NECK
he latest in the realm of elegant timepiece designs are
sautoir watches. Worn long and sensually draped, the
neck is the new hotspot for watch designers. Take it from
Chanel, which is basing its watchmaking capsule this
year on the trade of the couturier, and whose collection
includes several sautoir creations.
Dubbed Couture O’Clock, the collection
includes motifs such as dress forms, measuring tapes, thimbles, pins
and pincushions—the tools of the seamstress’s trade, essentially. The
watch pictured left is the Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion, a fantastically
precious take on the quotidian implement. It comes in three versions: one
worn on the wrist and one on a finger as if it were a ring. But the one that
makes the biggest statement is the Pincushion strung on a chain and
destined for the neck.
This Pincushion is crafted from yellow gold and set with around
498 diamonds. The dial is particularly impressive. To create the spindly
look of a pincushion, yellow gold ‘needles’ are set and decorated with
cultured pearls and diamonds to create the look of round pinheads.
The slender hands of the watch disappear a little in the illusion,
which is encased by a specially shaped domed sapphire crystal that
makes the watch face a pleasure to look at from almost any angle. But
with a design as fancy as this, mounted on a gold and diamond chain no
less, think of it as encouragement to wear it as you would jewellery.
75
Gabrielle Chanel
described the moments
in her life as an
intersection of luck and
destiny. The intersecting
lines that form the
Coco Crush collection’s
quilted pattern represent
those encounters.
All clothing, watches and
jewellery by Chanel
Watches
Jewellery Special
Eau de Atelier
A new picture of JENNIE is emerging, fresh off the K-pop superstar’s
founding of her own agency ODD ATELIER.
Photography HEEJUNE KIM Fashion editors KIHOH SOHN and EUNJI SHIN
Styling PARK MIN-HEE Words GAYEONG RYU
77
Watches
Slender, mini versions
of the Coco Crush
bracelet debuted this
year, designed to be
stacked and layered.
They’re crafted from
beige, white or yellow
gold, and offered with or
without diamonds.
78
Jewellery Special
Jennie. There’s something about the name that feels new lately.
Your independent label, Odd Atelier, marked the beginning of
your solo activities by creating ‘attention-grabbing novelty’.
As someone whose every move is exposed to the public, it’s my
role to show a new side of me each time. I’m always wondering,
“What new aspect of me can I reveal this time?” I wanted to
create a space where I could fully immerse myself in exploring
such ideas.
You’ve become a leader. Are there any principles you follow to
lead the company well?
Whenever someone comes up with a new idea, we’ll promptly
share it. We also ensure that everyone is content in their
roles. I’m confident that when these conditions are met, it will
foster strong synergy and lead to the creation of ‘attentiongrabbing novelty’.
As you embark on this new chapter, what impactful advice has
your mother given you?
My mum is the type to believe in and trust me in whatever I do.
We had many conversations this year, and her advice to avoid
rushing and pursue my path in my own way was reassuring.
You took everyone by surprise in March when you teamed up
with American singer-songwriter Matt Champion on the single
‘Slow Motion’. You said: “I’m delighted to finally share my
sincere feelings and message encapsulated in this song with
everyone.” What emotions did you infuse into the project and
what memories do you have from the collaboration?
I’ve long been a fan of Brockhampton, the group Matt is part of,
and I particularly admire his voice. After becoming acquainted
by chance, we casually hung out in the studio and ended up
making a song. We had surprisingly good chemistry and had a
great time working together. Thanks to our seamless workflow,
we were able to produce good results. Although it wasn’t
intentional, the timing of the release seems to complement the
current weather and atmosphere, enhancing the song’s mood
even further.
The lyrics ‘Cause you know I’m shy for you still/ So bad that it
kills/ And I can’t help but feel/Like we’re moving in slow motion’
seemed like a reflection of your experiences. Your industry
seniors hold you in high regard and are aware of your tendency
to be shy. How have they encouraged you?
I remember the advice Hyori-seonbaenim (senior) gave me
when I appeared on the first episode of The Seasons: Lee Hyori’s
Red Carpet. I often worry that I can’t communicate well with
people I’m not familiar with, yet she pointed out that shyness
was actually my defence mechanism. Overcoming shyness
has long been a personal hurdle, but I came to view it from a
different angle as a form of self-protection. This realisation
brought me a newfound sense of comfort.
Have you encountered any new, intriguing perspectives about
yourself recently?
For the first time in five years, I appeared as a permanent
cast member on a variety show, Apartment 404, where I think
I showed many fresh aspects of my personality. I gained
several interesting nicknames like Detective Jen and Jen
Archer (laughs). I showcased conceptual fashion that evolved
with each episode’s era setting and the response exceeded
my expectations. Seeing the fans’ responses with each new
episode was gratifying.
79
In addition to the Coco
Crush fine jewellery
collection, Jennie was
selected this year to front
the Chanel Première
Édition Originale
timepiece campaign as
its face and muse.
Watches
Jewellery Special
You’ve had a longstanding partnership with Chanel. How have
you been inspired recently by this familiar companion?
Witnessing Chanel’s autumn/winter 2024 ready-to-wear
collection in Paris was an inspiring experience. The films
projected on the large screens along the runway exuded
Chanel’s romantic essence and evoked the fragrance of
Deauville, a city cherished by Gabrielle Chanel. Perhaps it
struck a deeper chord with me because my first journey with
Chanel took place in Deauville. From the beautiful sea to the
models strolling along the city’s bridge, every element on the
runway, the appearances by Penélope Cruz and Brad Pitt in the
short film directed by Inez and Vinoodh, felt remarkably vivid.
You’re a globetrotter. Is there a particular city you currently
identify with the most?
Seoul, perhaps? I’ve travelled to many places, but it’s Seoul’s
unique charm of blending urban life with nature that always
sparks my inspiration and drive. It’s the city that I resonate
with the most.
When faced with the choice between embracing change
and remaining authentic to yourself, which direction do you
lean towards?
Wow, this is something I constantly ponder about. I think I’d
choose to stay true to myself. I believe my fans will embrace
and support all my endeavours, so I always strive for something
new. However, even in those moments, the most important
thing is to be authentic. I find joy showcasing my pursuits
without any forced pretences. Not only does this lead to better
outcomes, it also brings a greater sense of satisfaction.
Out of all the big and small decisions you made this year, which
one brought you the greatest satisfaction?
I’ve engaged in various endeavours since my debut, but my
main focus has always been connecting with fans through
music as a singer. Amid hectic schedules, however, there were
moments when I had to give up activities I wanted to pursue.
This year, I made a commitment to prioritise what brings me
joy. This began with the release of a Christmas cover song
towards the end of last year. There’s a joy that can only be felt
when communicating through music, and it was fulfilling and
rewarding to see many people enjoy it.
You seem to understand the importance of adequate rest.
Despite your busy schedule, how have you been prioritising
self-care?
I had an exceptionally busy year last year performing on stages
worldwide. But once it all concluded, I enjoyed a long break in
South Korea to recharge. I indulged in revitalising activities
such as meditation and relaxing in bed while listening to my
favourite music. I’m always happiest when I return home after
a workout, where I can fully dedicate myself to personal time.
There’s a lot of excitement surrounding your upcoming solo
album. While there isn’t much that can be disclosed at this
point, what’s one aspect of the new music that you can share?
These days, I’ve been dedicating nearly all my time to music
production and I often lose track of time. I’m working diligently
with the aim of reaching a wider audience with my music, so
please look forward to it. I promise to return in a manner that
exceeds all your expectations.
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Watches
82
Jewellery Special
Individuality is the name
of the game with Coco
Crush. The collection
is available across four
categories—rings,
earrings, necklaces and
bracelets—in 65 styles.
Hair, Lee Sun-young; make-up,
Jo Won-yeon; manicure,
Park Eun-kyung/Unistella; set
design, Choi Seo-yoon/Da;rak.
Watches
Jewellery Special
Final TOUCH
Edit JESSLYN LYE
1.
3.
2.
4.
5.
84
PORTRAIT: GETTY IMAGES
6.
7.
12.
8.
While the brooch was
once a functional object
utilised for fastening heavy
cloaks in cold climates, its use
has evolved over centuries.
As an ornament, the accessory
came to be worn in royal
courts as an affirmation of
power, wealth and status.
Now, its significance is
almost entirely sartorial,
as a statement detail or a
pop of colour to elevate one’s
look—a modern heirloom
that’s making a grand
comeback on runways and
red carpets everywhere
you look.
9.
10.
11.
1. Loewe x Lynda Benglis Tarantella brooch, $2,990 2. David Morris Flower brooch, $97,179 from Farfetch 3. Shanghai Tang x Jacky Tsai Porcelain brooch, $336
4. Ader Error Silver Crystal pin, US$305 from Ssense 5. Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti Amapola brooch, price upon request
6. Stephen Webster Stingray brooch, £42,000 7. Swarovski Gema brooch, $330 8. Alberta Ferretti beaded floral brooch, $375 from Farfetch
9. Weekend Max Mara metal brooch, US$165 10. Ader Error Silver Crystal Heart pin, US$340 from Ssense
11. Lauren x Khoo Empire State Sûreté pin, price upon request 12. Dries Van Noten brass brooch, €375
85
Successions
Legacy jewellery houses from the 18th and
19th centuries are back, and they’re more
relevant than ever.
Words JESSLYN LYE
86
IMAGES COURTESY OF VERDURA; BELPERRON; CODOGNATO
E
arlier this year in the FX drama Feud: Capote vs the
Swans, the dramas of New York high society socialites
in the ’60s and ’70s were laid bare. An unlikely
protagonist emerged: the distinct, opulent jewels of the
era. There is a scene of socialite and former Vogue editor
Babe Paley, after a cancer diagnosis, surrounded by her jewels and
doling them out to friends. A particular piece catches the eye of one of
Paley’s friends—a rubellite Verdura bracelet.
The show has since spurred a growing interest and fever for
designs from those decades, and particularly designs by jewellers whose
names had otherwise lost their lustre to time. Duke Fulco di Verdura, for one, was
a designer of bold, sculptural pieces who made a mark on 20th-century fine jewellery.
Before founding his eponymous brand in 1939, the Sicilian aristocrat was the head jewellery
designer at Chanel and the man who introduced Maltese cross cuffs to Gabrielle Chanel.
Verdura has changed hands over the
decades, but in the present it is owned and
run by Ward Landrigan, the former head of
jewellery at Sotheby’s. In its revived form, the
house creates designs from nearly 10,000
sketches that Verdura made in his lifetime.
Landrigan’s efforts at continuing the legacy of
storied, unsung designers might just be paying
off. Since being featured on television, Verdura
designs have begun to sell out.
Another name that
Landrigan has instigated
a comeback with is
Suzanne Belperron, one
of the most influential—
and very few female—
jewellery designers of the 20th century. Her work was worn by everyone
from Elsa Schiaparelli to the Duchess of Windsor, with a sensual
tactile style that remains strikingly modern. Today, her ageless style is
embodied in a contemporary collection that’s crafted from an archive of
over 9,300 gouaches and designs by Belperron.
Apart from the Landrigans, there’s the designer Francesca
Amfitheatrof—presently the artistic director of watches and jewellery
at Louis Vuitton and formerly the first female creative director at Tiffany
& Co. She recently added a new role, concurrent to her position at Louis
Vuitton, as the head of creative at cult Venetian jeweller Codognato.
Family-owned and run since 1866, Codognato is known for
distinctive intaglio and enamel designs sought out by royals, actors,
directors and artists in the know. Amfitheatrof succeeds the late, fourthgeneration jeweller Attilio Codognato, and the two are said to have
FROM ABOVE
Necklace from
fostered a friendship over the years through visits and conversations.
Codognato, Ravenna
As an outsider stepping into a family operation, and the impressive
pendant brooch from
influence she wields, chances are high that Amfitheatrof will usher in
Verdura, and Abacus cuff
a new generation of designs to draw in fresh fans and collectors at the
from Belperron
Venetian house.
Watches
Jewellery Special
The CASE for CHANGE
This month, BOUCHERON is rolling out
a new suite of packaging designs that offer both
style and sustainability.
Words JESSLYN LYE
IMAGE COURTESY OF BOUCHERON
W
hen the topic of sustainability in jewellery
comes up, there are a few efforts that
immediately come to mind. Ethically sourced
gold and gemstones, for example, are avenues
of progress. Yet there’s one particular facet
that often gets overlooked. Jewellery packaging might not appear
as significant on the surface, but its impact on the environment
certainly adds up. This is where Boucheron’s latest jewellery cases
come in.
Two years in the making, the maison’s new cases trade
the 11 non-recyclable components of its old packaging for just two
natural and recyclable materials: lightweight aluminium and wool
felt certified with the Responsible Wool Standard. Gone is the
traditional hinged form factor, simplified instead into round boxes
where one can simply pull open the top to reveal its contents. The
entire production process has been rewritten too, with every step
optimised to ensure the smallest possible environmental footprint.
The result: a collection of cases—in seven formats for rings,
bracelets, necklaces and more—crafted with a level of artistry and
meticulousness normally reserved for designer objects. Inspired
by beauty kits of the 1980s, the lid of each case features a textured
surface of carefully sculpted emerald forms, a subtle reference to
the jewellery house’s logo.
The aluminium and felt designs have quantifiable
environmental benefits on top of their aesthetics. The simplified
components mean the weight of Boucheron packaging is now
reduced to just a quarter of what it used to be, and the two materials
chosen can be endlessly recycled. This means a lower carbon
footprint when shipping the jewellery out of Place Vendôme in
Paris and end-of-life circularity for the cases. The brand’s creative
director Claire Choisne is said to repurpose the cases as decorative
vases in her home.
The innovation with which the maison is approaching its
packaging is not surprising. It was one of the earliest jewellers
in the industry to publish a revealing report on its sustainability
efforts, welcoming its contemporaries and competitors to share
in the house’s learnings. In an industry where a jewel box is as
emblematic as it is thanks to proposal culture, Boucheron’s new
cases represent a bold step toward the future and a clarion call
for change.
87
Harry Winston Winston
Kaleidoscope spessartite
pendant with peridots, yellow
sapphires and diamonds,
price upon request
BP de Silva Pocketful of Gems
paraiba tourmaline necklace,
price upon request
RISING
STARS
Edit JESSLYN LYE
Boucheron Serpent Bohème ring with
aquaprase and diamonds, $15,200
Caratell Opal Lily pendant
with opals, pink sapphires,
fancy yellow diamonds
and ruby, $13,500
Omi Privé purple star sapphire, spinel
and diamond ring, US$32,000
H Sena fancy intense
pink diamond ring,
price upon request
88
BP de Silva Jazz Age Monument
padparadscha sapphire ring with
diamonds, price upon request
Watches
Jewellery Special
When we think of gemstones, diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds
usually come to mind. But in recent years, a new crop of novel, rare gemstones
have taken the spotlight, garnering the attention of established jewellery houses
and private collectors alike. Treasured for their vibrant colours and steadily
growing in value, these stones have been turning up in auctions and collections,
cementing their place as a new generation of precious gems.
Reza Revolution earrings
with red spinels, diamonds
and princess-cut
diamonds, US$69,900
Louis Vuitton Colour Blossom BB Multi-Pattern
bracelet with amazonite and diamonds, $15,600
Yuli Jewellery pyrope
garnet sugarloaf ring with
micro-pavé diamonds,
price upon request
Madly Gems cobalt spinel
cocktail ring with diamonds,
price upon request
Anabela Chan Multi-Stone Drop earrings
with lab-grown padparadscha sapphires,
simulated blush pink sapphires,
olive tourmalines and diamonds,
$3,470 from Farfetch
89
Watches
Jewellery Special
A WORLD
unto Itself
As TIFFANY & CO opens a new exhibition in Tokyo,
the brand’s chief gemologist Victoria Reynolds
opens up on the legacy of the New York jeweller.
Words GORDON NG
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Jean Schlumberger
Strawberry and
Fleur de Mer clips,
the 128.54-carat yellow
Tiffany Diamond, and an
1855 Bapst Frères brooch
retailed by Tiffany & Co.
90
egacy is an interesting thing. With 187 years of history
behind it, the American jeweller Tiffany & Co—
despite more easily imagining and relating it with
youth—has oodles of history behind it. It’s a fact that
the house is now eager to reclaim and celebrate, as
evidenced by its latest project: Tiffany Wonder, an
ambitious brand exhibition that recently opened at
Tokyo Node in the Japanese capital city.
The exhibition brings together over 500 objects from the
brand’s archives to offer a broad sweep of its varied history. There
are the jewels, of course, designed by the many talents who have
worked for the brand over the decades, and historic artefacts such
as the first cash book when Tiffany opened for business.
Amid all this history, I got a chance to speak with Victoria
Reynolds, the brand’s present-day chief gemologist. Reynolds
has spent 37 years with the jeweller, with roles previously in
diamond grading, custom designs, business sales, marketing
high jewellery, and since 2020, heading the brand’s diamond and
gemstone acquisition.
Reynolds is, from observation, a creature of habit. She
wears a jewellery uniform of sorts, and if you look her up you’ll
notice the same Jean Schlumberger pieces—she confesses favour
for the designer—turning up. Most interestingly, she wears a black
jeweller’s loupe on a gold chain. When asked about it, she let on
that it was an inherited gift from her predecessor Melvyn Kirtley,
the house’s chief gemologist before her.
FROM TOP
A simulated window display by Christopher Young that pays homage to actual boutique window scenes designed by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany.
The In Love With Japan room, which draws a connection between New York and Tokyo.
The room is decorated with nods to Japanese crafts: red lacquer edges on the furniture, and walls like paper dividers.
Jewellery Special
There is a particular but amorphous quality to a Tiffany & Co
gemstone. Can you describe what that means?
They all have to be the best in class. They have to have
exceptional colour, great make and incredible crystal. But
when you’re looking at, let’s say, 20 rubies or 10 sapphires,
why do you pick one? It’s a bit subjective, right? So, like a great
painting—I think a great painting is a good example—it has
to have some emotion. A great gemstone, the way I put it, will
dance for me. In the case of a diamond, it might be the cut that
makes the scintillation of how light comes back to the eye. For
coloured gemstones, typically it’s all about colour.
Can you give us an example of a stone that gave you an
emotional response?
The Tiffany Diamond is an excellent example. Found in 1877
and cut in 1878, it’s been the brand’s true north for that long. It
has a beauty: the yellow is so pure and the cut is magnificent.
A regular gemstone in 1878 had 58 cuts, but this was cut with
82 facets because it held the yellow colour in the stone. It’s very
optimistic, a pure yellow. It’s like any great thing in nature
or anything that’s pure. It brings joy and that’s a once-in-alifetime gemstone. Watching people look at the diamond [at the
exhibition] was a great example.
You’ve no doubt seen the Tiffany Diamond a lot. Do you ever find
yourself bored by it?
No. Never. If I did, I would have to give my job up. If you get
bored by the Tiffany Diamond, there’s no hope. I never get tired
of looking at it because I find something new in it every time. I
probably don’t need a plot (a diagram that charts a gemstone’s
characteristics), I know that stone so well at this point. But I
think to myself, with all the modern technology we have, how
is it that Mr Tiffany and Mr Kunz took a year to study it, cut
it and created something so perfect back in 1877? And that
has held up and stood the test of time to be one of the greatest
diamonds in the world.
Why is now the right time to have this broad look at the history
of Tiffany & Co?
When you have 187 years, sometimes you have to take a step
back, right? I think what happened when Mr Arnault and
LVMH acquired us was they saw things in us that maybe we’d
forgotten. That’s the way I put it.
What do you mean by forgotten?
I don’t think that we didn’t appreciate it. But I don’t think we
necessarily looked at it with a new lens. And the new lens is
what makes it so interesting because it’s all been there. It’s
authentic and part of our history.
You’ve spent 37 years with Tiffany. What was your emotional
response seeing this exhibition?
To see the history of the company so beautifully curated in this
exhibition is why it is so emotional. Because it stands for love,
for beauty and for quality. But ultimately, it’s about love and
that is a very emotional thing.
Tiffany Wonder pays tribute to the many designers who have worked for the brand.
FROM LEFT Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso and Jean Schlumberger.
92
IMAGES COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO
Watches
A cut ABOVE
VACHERON CONSTANTIN marks its first
collaboration with haute couture designer Yin Yiqing.
Words GORDON NG
IMAGE COURTESY OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN
W
hen Vacheron Constantin launched Égérie,
its dedicated women’s collection, in 2020, the
Swiss watchmaker drew a connection between
haute horlogerie and haute couture. Both fields
share the quality of handmade exclusivity—
echoing the brand’s tagline of ‘one of not many’. That same year,
Vacheron Constantin announced the face of the collection. Not a
celebrity, as many brands are wont to do, but an actual, honest-togoodness couturier in the form of the designer Yin Yiqing.
Now, the brand is taking its partnership with Yin to a new
level, releasing its first creative collaboration with the designer on
Égérie timepieces. There is a completely novel and mind-blowing
concept watch and a limited-edition Égérie Moon Phase model
that taps into the couturier’s design sensibilities.
The Égérie collection is defined by a number of subtle
details. The first, and most obvious, is an off-centre subdial
positioned between 12 and three o’clock. It’s deployed, depending on
the model, to display either the date or a moonphase complication.
This ring is framed, like the case, numerals and applied indices, in
gold. Its neighbouring three o’clock index, in curved type, is neatly
cut to accommodate the intersecting ring.
But a curious eye might notice that the cabochon moonstone
crown is set at two o’clock and the Vacheron Constantin logo is
similarly positioned off-centre at eight o’clock. The subtle effect
is a line drawn between the crown, ring and logo on the diagonal
of the watch—a wonderfully understated callback, perhaps, to the
diagonal bias cutting of fashion designers.
It’s a possible allusion perhaps to the manipulations of
haute couture fabrics. One of the most classical is the art of plissé, or
pleating. On the Égérie’s design, this is realised through guilloché
on the dial to create a folded, pleated texture.
These nods to haute couture are all present, of course, in
Yin’s 100-piece edition of the Égérie Moon Phase. The difference
is a design that taps directly into the couturier’s creative language.
Firstly, a dreamy lilac mother-of-pearl dial in both smooth and
pleated finishes. The latter is particularly impressive as it taps
on Vacheron Constantin’s guillochage expertise in working with a
fragile material. The iridescent colours and textures commingle to
create a dial that’s exceedingly elegant to look at.
All watches in the Égérie collection feature an
interchangeable system and a selection of straps. With Yin’s
edition, the straps are chosen to complement and provide a
contrast to the timepiece’s unique colours. There is lilac alligator
for a tone-on-tone look, night blue calfskin with a slick satin
effect that’s ideal for evenings and powder pink grained calfskin
leather for a sweet look. Trust an haute couture designer to
understand the importance of having an outfit for different moods
and occasions.
93
Watches
Jewellery Special
The KING
of METALS
From assertive sculptural jewels to the
nuances of fine details, the primacy of gold is undeniable.
Photography PAULA LATIMORI Styling AURORA SANSONE
THIS PAGE
Cartier Grain de Café
earrings and ring in
yellow and white gold
with diamonds; Dior top
FACING PAGE
Pomellato bracelets
in rose gold with
diamonds; Fendi pants
Watches
Jewellery Special
Tiffany & Co Lock earrings in rose gold with and without diamonds; Valentino dress
96
Messika Move Romane earrings in rose gold with diamonds
97
THIS PAGE
Roberto Coin Pois Mois
and Navarro earrings
and ring in yellow
gold with diamonds;
Max Mara turtleneck
FACING PAGE
Crivelli Pillar rings
and bracelet in rose
gold with diamonds;
Tory Burch shirt
Stylist’s assistant, Marco
Pilone Poli; hair and makeup, Anna Maria Negri/Julian
Watson Agency using Make
Up For Ever and Gabriele
Brunelli/GB Pro Showteam;
manicure, Elisa Grieco/
Etoile Management using
Manucurist Paris; model,
Ksenia Lifanova/Elite.
Watches
Jewellery Special
Partnership
Guiding
HAND
A nearly obsessive adherence to rare,
Renaissance-era craftsmanship sets
BUCCELLATI’s intricate jewels apart.
t’s a rare feat to design a recognisable icon of jewellery,
much less to mint an entirely individual style. But that
is what the Milanese jeweller Buccellati has achieved
since it was founded in 1919. The key to that is not merely
a design detail or motif, but a unique and rare adherence
to craftsmanship of mind-boggling virtuosity.
The brand’s signature lies in a combination of methods
when it comes to working with gold. Engraving by hand is the
foundation, but the brand has a host of specific techniques—
often, a mixture of several on a single piece of jewellery. Turn
the pieces this way, that and around, and you’ll notice that nearly
every surface has been intricately worked and crafted. That
skill with manipulating the surfaces and textures of gold is what
earned the brand’s founder Mario Buccellati the moniker of ‘prince
of goldsmiths’.
Two of the brand’s contemporary collections that best
exemplify this intense level of craftsmanship when working with
gold are Macri and Tulle. Macri is designed to imbue precious
gold with the texture and finish of silk fabrics. This is achieved
with the rigato engraving technique, in which superfine lines are
carved to create the effect of a textile. It’s simple only in theory: the
handwork required of it is distinctive and rare. Each Macri piece
contains at least 20,000 individual engravings.
100
Pieces from the Macri line are also enhanced by diamonds.
But instead of setting the gemstones straightforwardly with
prongs or channels, Buccellati uses one of two carving methods to
create star-shaped rosettes. There is modellato engraving, which
sculpts a raised rosette, and ornato engraving, where the rosette
detail is carved into the gold.
The Tulle collection, meanwhile, evokes the textures of
precious lace. Where the Macri designs imbue solid gold with a
surface lightness, Tulle does it by carving net-like openworked
structures into the jewels. It’s one of the most complex methods
in jewellery. For perspective, hand carving these structures into a
plate of gold just half a millimetre thin takes a Buccellati goldsmith
nearly a month.
The brand uses two main openwork designs: radial, where
lines spread out from a centre, and honeycomb, where a hexagonal
pattern is formed. Within and around these openworked structures
are carved and shaped borders of gold that are set with diamonds
and precious gems.
The use of virtuosic techniques in jewellery is not unique to
Buccellati. But what sets the Milanese house apart is a dedication
to these goldsmithing crafts that date back to the Renaissance,
and which are so meticulously detailed they can only be enacted
by hand. The result is jewels that are akin to wearable art pieces.
Watches
Jewellery Special
THIS PAGE
Classic Macri bracelets
feature a silk-like, handengraved rigato texture,
and diamonds set on
carved gold rosettes.
Generational Butterflies
FACING PAGE
A Buccellati high jewellery
necklace with yellow gold
radial tulle and honeycomb
handwork, with diamonds
set onto white gold edges.
1950s butterfly brooch with baroque pearl body,
designed by founder Mario Buccellati.
IMAGES COURTESY OF BUCCELLATI
Butterfly by Gianmaria Buccellati from 1993,
with cabochon emeralds on the wings.
The brand is, in fact, one of the few major jewellery firms
in the world where the founding family is still actively involved. In
the present, the brand is led by third-generation creative director
Andrea Buccellati, in collaboration with his daughter Lucrezia.
This idea of continuity was showcased in a recent exhibition
by Buccellati in Venice, with four butterfly brooches designed by
four generations. It showcased two remarkable things. First, and
naturally, the evolution of styles, tastes and designs over decades.
From the baroque eye of founder Mario Buccellati, to the glamour
of his successor Gianmaria, the modern precision of Andrea and
now the feminine directness of Lucrezia.
Second, and more impressive perhaps, the house and
family’s adherence—regardless of the march of time—to the
demanding intricacies of its prized craftsmanship. The tulle
openworking, the engraved textures, the sculpted shapes of gold,
all present today as they ever were.
Andrea Buccellati’s 1995 butterfly with two-toned
baroque pearls, and gossamer tulle work on the wings.
Andrea and Lucrezia Buccellati’s butterfly from 2023, with a
teardrop diamond body and sunburst pattern openworking.
101
4.
2.
3.
5.
1.
6.
7.
8.
1. Sydney Evan Starburst Horseshoe necklace, $1,325 from Net-a-Porter 2. Fabergé Heritage Heart Surprise locket necklace, $20,480 from Farfetch
3. Marie Lichtenberg Love You locket necklace, $10,868 from Net-a-Porter 4. Simone Jewels From Europe with Love Cherub locket, $29,800
5. Bea Bongiasca Fortuneye Protection ring, €580 6. Goossens Talisman Clover signet ring, $460 from Farfetch
7. Harwell Godfrey Chubby Talisman ring, $6,905 from Farfetch 8. Dior Rose des Vents bracelet, $59,500 9. Monica Vinader Talisman necklace, $305
10. Ask & Embla The Sacrament ring, $187 11. Van Cleef & Arpels Zodiaque Geminorum necklace, $32,600 12. Cece Jewellery Insignia pendant, £47,390
13. Parts of Four Tall Roman ring, $1,076 from Farfetch 14. De Beers Talisman ring, $4,128 from Farfetch
102
Watches
Jewellery Special
12.
9.
13.
10.
11.
14.
Lucky CHARMS
Edit JESSLYN LYE
A sense of superstition is as old as jewellery itself.
The earliest versions were worn to ward off illness and bad luck or to bring
one closer to higher powers. These were typically simple stone amulets of
sacred symbols, stars or floral patterns. Our modern-day talismans may have
evolved into fancier designs, but they’re grounded by the same wishes.
Kept close to oneself for luck and protection, think of these jewels as
spiritual compasses to guide one through the chaos of life.
103
Watches
Jewellery Special
Chaumet Torsade de Chaumet brooch in white gold with diamonds
104
WANDERING EYE
An unbound attitude to jewels that travel the body
and draw the eye to its curious corners.
Photography FEEDBENG Styling GORDON NG
Boucheron Quatre
Classique Multi-Wear
in yellow, white
and pink gold with
diamonds and PVD
worn as a belt, and
Quatre Classique
Bobbin pair of cuffs
in pink gold and set of
12 bracelets in yellow,
white and pink gold
with diamonds and
PVD; Dolce&Gabbana
top; Hermès pants
Hermès Chaine d’ancre
double tour bracelet in
rose gold and silver worn
as choker, Mix & H long
necklace in rose gold and
silver, and bodysuit
Watches
Jewellery Special
Dior Colour Dior transformable double ring in pink gold with diamonds and lacquer worn with chain, and dress
107
Tiffany & Co Bird On A Rock brooch in white and yellow gold with aquamarine and diamonds; Hermès bodysuit
108
STYLIST’S ASSISTANT, MIKI CHARWIN; HAIR AND MAKE-UP, KENNETH CHIA; MANICURE, ANN LIM;
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT, RIGG NGO; MODEL, LILA/MISC MANAGEMENT.
Watches
Jewellery Special
Cartier Agrafe
necklace in rose gold
with diamonds
Tory Burch dress
LIFE Voices
STARTER Pistol
Don’t call it a comeback. After a blockbuster season of setting and smashing
records on the track, 27-year-old Singaporean sprinter Shanti Pereira is gearing up for
one big race: the Paris Olympics. Here, she reflects on her past, present and future,
and why building a better sporting culture in Singapore is more vital now than ever.
Photography SAYHER HEFFERNAN Styling JASMINE ASHVINKUMAR
Words CHANDREYEE RAY
eronica Shanti Pereira is 18 years old when her
two older sisters decide to write a book about
her. They are standing in the bleachers at the
National Stadium in Singapore, watching their
youngest sister compete in the 200m sprint at
the 2015 SEA Games.
As Pereira blazes down the track, her
sisters feel their hearts thumping in their chests, blood rushing in
their ears.
She crosses the finish line first. The crowd roars around
them. The two older girls know: their baby sister has just
made history.
“They were really moved by the impact of that moment,”
says Pereira, reflecting on a conversation she had with her sisters
in Bali, on a trip they took a month after that fateful race. “They
felt like they had to put that experience down somewhere to
remember forever.”
Pereira’s 2015 win made her something of a national hero—
after all, she had just earned Singapore its first gold medal in the
event in 42 years. With the new national record came its requisite
glory. Pereira was awarded the Sports Excellence Scholarship in
2016. A year later, she added another feather to her cap: the Yip Pin
Xiu Scholarship to study accountancy at Singapore Management
University (SMU).
Titled Go Shanti Go, the children’s book her sisters would
eventually go on to write charted Pereira’s journey as an athlete
from when she was a child all the way to her historic win in 2015.
What her sisters couldn’t have known, however, was the setback
that lay just ahead.
In 2018 came a crushing injury. Pereira recalls the moment
she got hurt during training with excruciating clarity, describing
it as an “out-of-body experience”. A grade two hamstring injury
meant that her muscle had partially torn, resulting in acute pain
and loss of strength in her leg.
The days that followed were a blur. “I was in so much pain
that it was difficult for me to fall asleep,” she says. “Emotionally, I
was lost. It was the strangest feeling to suddenly not be able to do
things that were second nature to me.
“All I could think about was getting back on the track,
picking up where I had left off. But I couldn’t train the way I needed
to without injuring myself again. It was incredibly difficult to
come to terms with the fact that my body needed time to heal from
a trauma.”
Pereira’s goal of medalling at the 2018 Asian Games
was over.
The physical blow of her injury was followed by another
difficult consequence: Pereira’s inability to perform at the 2018
Asian Games meant that she would be stripped of her Sports
Excellence Scholarship. Then came a painful double whammy—
having struggled with her mental health and unable to keep her
grades up, she also lost her academic scholarship from SMU.
Thinking back to the agonising few weeks when all this
transpired, Pereira says: “I hadn’t had the time to process the first
loss before the second happened and the wind was knocked out of
me. I didn’t know if I had a career anymore.”
It is October 2023 when Pereira becomes her country’s first
Asian Games athletics champion since 1974.
This came months after she qualified for the Olympics on
merit, for an event (the 200m sprint—Pereira’s forte) that, as per
her coach, had been one of the hardest to qualify for in history.
Three years ago, at the Tokyo Olympics, the qualifying time had
been 22.80 seconds. This year, the standard to meet was 22.57.
Those 23 milliseconds might not seem like much, but in the
track and field world, they represent a huge gulf.
Pereira crossed that gulf alongside the finish line when
she set a new national record of 22.57 seconds at the World
Championships 200m semifinal, making her the first Singaporean
to progress past the heats at the World Championships.
111
LIFE Voices
“We need to create a safe space for our athletes
so they can go out there and give it their all without being
crippled by the fear that they might not get a medal.”
She now holds the national record in all four sprint
categories and is the fastest Southeast Asian woman in the 100m
and 200m events.
Pereira is 28 years old this year—a far cry from the shy
18-year-old who had shown such incredible promise on the track
that had inspired her sisters to write a book about her—but she
beams widely when she reveals that the support from her family
has been unwavering. “My mum, dad and siblings are the most
amazing people I know. Throughout my ups and downs, they gave
me all the space I needed but were there for me unconditionally.
Anytime I wanted to talk to someone, or just cry, I always had them
to rely on. They are the ones who keep me grounded through it all.”
Between a blistering training schedule and a dedicated
mental health regime to keep her head in the game, other things
that keep Pereira grounded are spending time with her friends,
partner (“I’m looking forward to spending more quality time with
him after the Olympics; maybe we’ll go on holiday!” she says with
a grin) and shopping trips to Sephora. Cooking, an unexpected
hobby she picked up as a by-product of trying to keep her nutrition
tip-top, has also become a way for her to show love to the people
around her.
“I feel like an imposter saying I cook because the meals I
make are super easy—like a zucchini lasagne. Still, it’s a lovely
feeling when people eat the food I make and enjoy it. Or, at least, I
think they do,” she laughs.
Beyond these moments of joy, Pereira’s focus is
definitely razor-sharp.
“As athletes, the reality is that you are ultimately driven
by a certain desired outcome. That can get overwhelming; you
have this big thing that you want, but what can you do each day to
get there?”
Pereira reflects on her positive working relationship with
her coach, Luis Canha, who understands her innately. “He realised
that I was very outcome-oriented, which wasn’t great for my
mental health. He has helped me to instead work on embracing the
process for what it is. This means that every day, I have something
small that I’m trying to work on—whether it’s perfecting a certain
running mechanic or strengthening my competition mindset.
It gives me a manageable goal that I can accomplish and is way
less overwhelming.”
Keeping her eye on the journey over the result has never
been more important than in this moment, with Pereira’s star rising
and public anticipation around her building to an all-time high. “It
112
gets harder to resist expectations as you progress further. When I
won the Asian championships in July, people started to predict that
I might win the Asian Games later that year. Now that I’ve qualified
for Paris, the reaction I’m seeing is that some Singaporeans are
expecting me to get a gold medal at the Olympics.”
Pereira pauses to chuckle and shrug. “I have to bring
them down to Earth occasionally with a reminder that some of
my competitors are the best in the world—they are running a
full second faster than me. In track and field terms, that’s a lot.
It’s not about me not dreaming big enough, it’s just the reality of
the situation.”
She attributes this to a general lack of understanding about
the field of athletics, but I sense a deeper sentiment—one that
tends to rear its head whenever we have national conversations
about sport and one that reflects the exacting way in which we treat
our athletes. Can’t it be good enough that Pereira qualified and is
the first Singaporean to have done so in years? Isn’t her inspiring
journey, through all of its ups and downs, worth celebrating on
its own?
“It’s funny you say that,” she says, pensively. “It reminds me
of the reaction people had to my performance at the Asian Games
last year. I got a silver in the 100m and a gold in the 200m. I got so
many comments about how I narrowly missed the double gold. I
know they’re trying to be encouraging, but I wish I could tell them,
how about we still celebrate the silver?”
And not for nothing, given that the silver in question was
the first Asian Games medal the Singapore women’s athletics
scene had seen in nearly 50 years.
She shares her candid thoughts on what could create a
better sporting culture in Singapore—one that is able to support
its athletes through the ups and downs that they are bound to face,
instead of cutting them down the minute they seem to fail.
“It might sound ironic that I’m saying this at this stage of the
season, but I think it would be helpful to stop focusing so intensely
on medals. We need to create a safe space for our athletes so they
can go out there and give it their all without being crippled by the
fear that they might not get a medal.”
She takes a deep breath, like she’s thought about this a
thousand times. “In reality, a medal just isn’t possible sometimes.
What we need to understand is that anything less than a medal
isn’t automatically a loss. It depends on each athlete’s goals and
the journey they are on—it could still be good enough and it could
still be worth celebrating.”
Hermès bodysuit;
Ask&Embla ear cuffs
and rings
THIS PAGE
Max Mara dress;
Tory Burch cuff;
&Other Stories cuff
and necklace (worn
around ankle)
FACING PAGE
Tory Burch dress
Hair, Dollei Seah/Makeup
Entourage using Keune
Haircosmetics; make-up,
Lydia Thong/Makeup
Entourage using Make Up
Forever; producer,
David Bay.
LIFE Voices
“Each day, I have something small that I’m trying
to work on—whether that’s perfecting a certain running
mechanic or strengthening my competition mindset.”
115
CINEMATHEQUE
Nicole Midori Woodford is one of Singapore’s most prominent
independent filmmakers today—and her debut feature is a tender triumph.
Photography ZANTZ HAN Styling NICHOLAS SEE Words JESSLYN LYE
n Last Shadow at First Light, 16-year-old Ami embarks
on a journey from Singapore to Japan in search of her
missing mother, who mysteriously disappeared after
returning to her hometown to help with rescue efforts
following the 2011 tsunami. Between hauntings and
hallucinations, against a landscape heavy with loss,
lies a tender look at healing in the face of lingering trauma and
unspeakable grief.
It is a triumph of a debut feature, seven years in the making,
from local writer-director Nicole Midori Woodford. Chosen to be a
part of Berlinale Talents and the Asian Film Academy in 2010, and
currently a film lecturer at Nanyang Technological University’s
School of Art, Design and Media, she is one of Singapore’s most
acclaimed independent filmmakers of this generation.
“For their first film, most directors tend to go back to their
personal experiences or questions that they have while growing
up. The seed of this film comes from my family and my Japanese
grandmother,” Woodford shares. In the ’40s, her grandmother had
missed her train to work from her home in Kure one day and thus
survived the Hiroshima atomic blast. It’s a story she only shared
for the first time a few years before her passing.
Last Shadow at First Light deals with the aftermath of a
different disaster, but its devastating impacts are no less visceral.
Most of the film was shot in Rikuzentakata, a city almost wiped
out by the 2011 tsunami, and its poignancy permeates every
moment. “The bigger part of the story came later, after discovering
the space and landscape when I started to do my research in Japan
in 2017. I wanted to tell a story about a family that is dealing with
their own struggles internally as well as externally. So you have
the backdrop of the disaster, but you also have something that is
broken and needs healing among the family members.”
A day after the theatrical opening of her film in Singapore,
Woodford sits down to chat about her filmmaking journey and the
stories that fascinate her. She also picks out six movies by female
directors that have inspired her along the way.
Massimo Dutti blazer
and pants; tank and
shoes, stylist’s own
116
Take us back to the start of your filmmaking career. How did it
begin and what has that journey been like for you?
I never thought that filmmaking was in the cards for me, but
I’ve always had a passion for storytelling and I loved watching
films. I used to rent films from video shops and from the
Esplanade library, and I was curious how they got made. At
the start, what drew me in was the multidisciplinary nature of
film. I could explore music and I loved to write. But eventually, I
realised that you can’t do everything on your own, so the second
key milestone was discovering that directing came quite
naturally to me. Still, I didn’t dare to call myself a director until
much later, when I was selected for two talent development
LIFE Films
Petite Maman
Directed by Celine Sciamma
A delicate and wistful take on time travel,
the mysterious power of mother and daughter
relationships as well as childhood grief.
programmes that were quite prestigious: Berlinale Talents,
and the Asian Film Academy in Busan. After that, I didn’t
look back.
HAIR AND MAKE-UP: ZHOU AIYI/MAKEUP ENTOURAGE.
Were there any challenges for you as a female filmmaker?
When I started out, it felt like I had to prove myself first before
people took me seriously as a director, whereas if a man shows
up on set, people don’t question it even if he’s not known. It was
strange to me because if I get the job done, why does it matter
if I’m, for example, more soft-spoken? Now, it’s more of how
people describe my work. They’ll say the film feels feminine,
which I don’t think is a bad thing. I see it as a compliment.
The Nightingale
Directed by Jennifer Kent
Jennifer Kent’s sophomore film is a brutal
and relentless exploration of colonialism,
violence and trauma as a brittle but
powerful revenge film.
Aftersun
Directed by Charlotte Wells
Do you think your relationship with filmmaking has evolved
over the years?
It’s a love-hate relationship, no doubt, because it’s always going
to be at odds with my personal life. It forces you to make hard
decisions and sacrifices because it demands so much time,
energy and resources. I delayed having a baby until after the
film because I felt it was going to be unfair to the child if I
couldn’t be 100 percent committed, and I couldn’t live with that.
In the beginning, I was living life without compromise. I was
working hard on every project and not taking care of my health.
But as I got older, I realised that was not sustainable because I
was exhausting myself all the time, so I had to set boundaries.
On the artistic side of things, I feel that I have finally found my
voice. But it’s funny because now I want to try something else; I
feel that I’m capable of taking on a different style as a director.
That’s why film is so exciting. It’s an easy craft to get into, but a
hard one to master.
Most first feature films are linked closely to
the director’s outlook on personal truths and
more often than not they are about parent-child
relationships. The ending of Charlotte Wells’s
breakout debut feature is a devastating one
that breaks your heart over and over again.
What are the themes and stories that fascinate you? What kinds
of stories do you hope to explore?
The one constant is a female protagonist. Not just for
representation, but also because I’m drawn to ambiguity—to
the grey area of life, of the thought processes behind decisions,
and conflicts that human characters face. I feel that for women
in general, the battles we face are more ambiguous and they’re
harder to pin down. As a storyteller, I want to unravel and
discover what is behind this ambiguity.
Tótem
Directed by Lila Avilés
Is there an ultimate goal that you hope to achieve through
your work?
Maybe it is a bit idealistic to say this, but the ultimate goal for
me is to make works that have an influence on how people
see the world. Film is a medium that you share with a group of
people, not just one individual, and tapping into this collective
consciousness is very evocative for me.
House of Hummingbird
Directed by Bora Kim
Set in 1994, this is a heartfelt and loving
portrait of a young girl growing up and
dealing with the trials of female adolescence.
Woven with empathy and care, the film is
an honest and yet mesmerising take on the
coming-of-age narrative.
Tótem was one of my favourite films last year.
It has a lot of humanity and unfolds over the
course of one afternoon in a Mexican family’s
life as they grapple with life and death through
the eyes of Sol, the seven-year-old protagonist.
Saint Maud
Directed by Rose Glass
Another debut film featuring a female
protagonist but one where she descends into
madness as she communes with an imagined
God. Saint Maud questions our sense of reality
and plumbs the depths somewhere between
horrific and beatific.
117
INTO the WILD
The slow-paced Kangaroo Island, dubbed the Australian Galapagos, brims with
spectacular coastlines, divine produce and an abundance of animals in its natural habitat.
Words AMELIA CHIA
PHOTOGRAPHY: SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION
LIFE Travel
The breathtaking
Remarkable Rocks on
Kangaroo Island.
am in the thick of one of those moments city
dwellers like me truly relish. Against the inky dark
sky, my senses are heightened to the comforting
sound of curling ocean waves and the night breeze,
which float gently into our accommodation. As I
tuck into a bowl of home-made cauliflower soup,
there comes a faint, scratching noise—tap, tap tap,
like nails rapping on glass. Tamsin Wendt, my host
at Oceanview Eco Villas on Kangaroo Island, turns towards the
door with a grin.
“It’s Chilli and Bingo,” she pronounces, reaching her hands
out to the female kangaroo and her little joey, who had only left
the pouch the night before. “Definitely your lucky night.” The
marsupials, who live on the 202-hectare property, nudge her hands
and sniff warily at me. Chilli and Bingo linger on our back porch for
a couple of minutes before hopping off after realising food is not
to be found here. I blink, hardly believing that I had just interacted
with kangaroos in the wild.
“The island, as you can see, is pretty special,” says Tamsin,
gesturing around her. “There are no dingos, rabbits or foxes on the
island. The flora and fauna you see is what South Australia looked
like prior to the European Settlement. There’s nowhere else like it
in Australia.
You’ll see over the next few days, you can drive for 10km
and not pass another vehicle. In the middle of summer, you can go
to a beach and not see another person there.”
It’s the unexpected magic of the wilderness that makes
Kangaroo Island in South Australia one of the most remarkable
places on Earth. Known as the Australian Galapagos, koalas
rest in abundance in lush eucalyptus trees, while kangaroos,
echidnas and bandicoots lurk all around. Driving through the
island is reminiscent of a game drive because you will almost
always chance upon an animal. When cars are pulled over on the
side of the road, it often means a clear sighting of a koala up in a
tree. Becky Westbrook, my effervescent and knowledgeable guide
from Kangaroo Island Touring Company, is a genius at locating
them from miles away.
I have the pleasure of spending two full days with
Westbrook, a mother of three who grew up on Kangaroo Island
and has a passion for storytelling and the unblemished beauty
of her home. She takes me down to Seal Bay Conservation Park
on the south coast of Kangaroo Island one morning, home to the
third largest Australian sea lion colony in the country. The sea
lions, most of them snoozing on the sand while soaking in the late
morning sun, are only a couple of metres away from me. I watch one
stare curiously at me from the dry upper shore before it galumphs
slowly under a bridge. Bottlenose dolphins are rampant too, if you
gaze down on the island’s clear, turquoise waters long enough. I try
my luck once on Oceanview Eco Villas’ jagged clifftop, where I sit
on a camping chair with a cocktail in hand, chasing the last rays of
a wondrous sunset as I hope for a dolphin to surface. It doesn’t, but
a pod of pelicans fly by in an arresting spectacle.
119
LIFE Travel
An explorer’s wildest dreams
Australia’s third biggest island operates at a blissfully slow pace, and is
wonderfully rural, which attributes to its otherworldly charm. It boasts 4,416
square kilometres of land—six times the size of Singapore—and yet is home
to just under 5,000 residents. Kingscote and Penneshaw are the two main
townships on the island, with a modest showing of restaurants, cafes, shops
and supermarkets. Westbrook tells me that basic necessities and day-to-day
groceries can be done on the island, but specific wants—dental visits, facials
or shopping for a wider variety of meats and seafood—are best fulfilled in
Adelaide, a 25-minute plane ride or 45-minute ferry ride away.
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Muted tones in
Oceanview Eco
Villas’ living room;
a kangaroo spotted
in the wild; common
pools at Southern
Ocean Lodge;
orange lichen on
Remarkable Rocks.
Kangaroo Island is also home to the purest strain of the Ligurian Bees,
which makes its honey incredibly sweet and floral, and some of the best I’ve
tasted. I buy some for my mother-in-law, who raves for weeks about how the
honey tastes like those from her childhood. She proceeds to buy another five jars
online shortly after.
In 2020, Kangaroo Island experienced the effects of Australia’s
devastating bushfires in its summer season. Almost half of the island was burnt,
alongside homes, businesses, crops and wild animals. Now, fresh sprigs grow
from the bushes and the native vegetation has regenerated itself—even with
wildflower species that have not been recorded in the last 70 years.
I observe this especially at Flinders Chase National Park, a vast area
of wilderness sprawled out on the west of the island as its unique bushland of
hakeas, mallees and yuccas show healthy green patches. The National Park is
where Kangaroo Island’s renowned Remarkable Rocks is located, a geological
120
PHOTOGRAPHY: SAYHER HEFFERNAN
phenomenon crafted from granite and erosion over the last 500 million years. The bright
orange lichen, red succulents and grand overhang of its formation is a breathtaking sight
from afar. I creep in and out of the rocks as I start to make out recognisable shapes from
what is in front of me. I happily spot a lion’s head and elephant trunk before crawling
under an arched rock to gawk at the foamy waves below.
A few months ago, Lonely Planet named Kangaroo Island the number two mustvisit region this year, after the Trans Dinarica Cycle Route. The travel guide book publisher
attributed it to its stunning beaches, sumptuous food and wine and varied wildlife. I gladly
concur, I think to myself, as Westbrook takes me down the longer, windier and more
scenic route to Stokes Bay Beach—Australia’s best beach in 2023. The ocean glimmers
like sapphires with the sun’s rays beating down on it as I gaze out the window in wonder.
On the way, Westbrook spies a few more koalas and I step on a kangaroo carcass in my
excitement to snap a close-up shot of a baby koala. I might usually have been distraught,
but that moment is too wondrous for that.
Stokes Bay Beach takes me by surprise. Westbrook leads the way through a narrow
headland of boulders—a scene straight out of an Enid Blyton novel—as I try to keep up.
The passageway meanders up and down for a minute or two before I emerge onto the most
pristine beach I’d ever seen. When she had told me this was one of Australia’s most prized
beaches, I had imagined the likes of Bondi Beach in Sydney and not this isolated, dreamy
stretch of golden sand.
A sheltered, crystal clear rockpool protects the beach from the pounding surf
and also makes for an idyllic swimming haven for children of all ages. I spend a moment
ambling down the shoreline, breathing in the gloriously salty air as the sun warms my
pale skin. I have never wanted to dive straight into the ocean more than that very moment.
121
LIFE Travel
Working towards true sustainability
“We’ve been on the island 18 years now,” Tamsin laughs. She is the
mastermind behind all the recipes at Oceanview Eco Villas. “We
thought we’d be here for two to four years, but it got under our skin.”
Trained as a clinical psychologist, Tamsin and her husband
Tim Wendt—a police officer at the time before joining his family’s
jewellery business—decided to build Oceanview Eco Villas on
their own land as a way of sharing their love for the island with
others. Harnessing all of nature’s elements, the Wendts decided
that the combination of luxury and sustainability would be their
ethos for the two villas, and that started with going off-grid.
“We sought to remain within a small footprint and work on
passive solar principles. Even on long and hot summer days, the
sun doesn’t actually touch the glass, and with cross ventilation,
the house cools down pretty quickly,” Tamsin points out. The
couple made a conscious decision that 90 percent of their building
material would come from within South Australia, from the
creamy limestone walls in the living room to the plush dining
room chairs. She adds: “The carpets in the bedrooms is one of my
favourite features as they are crafted from ghost nets rescued from
oceans around the world.”
The Wendts are also committed to creating a beautiful
native habitat on their grounds. They started with planting over
1,000 native plants and bushes that are endemic to Kangaroo
Island, and followed up two winters ago with a major revegetation
122
project that added another 5,000 trees and plants over five and
a half hectares. Their worm farm compost system also ensures
all organic waste is dealt with on the property and turned
into fertiliser.
My stay at Oceanview Eco Villas was an all-inclusive
experience—a perfect way to unwind and be at one with nature.
All meals are catered for by their team, from fresh fruit, yoghurt
and eggs in the morning, to packed picnic lunches and a threecourse meal for dinner in the comfort of the villa. Each of the
Wendts’ two-bedroom, two-bathroom villas offers jaw-dropping
vistas of Nepean Bay, which I enjoy from my king-sized bed.
For another top-notch accommodation option, Southern
Ocean Lodge, by James and Hayley Baillie of the prestigious
Baillie lodges, is open again after massive reconstruction from
the bushfires. Its 25 glass-fronted suites, named after shipwrecks
on the island, boast calm, muted tones, a sunken living room and
curved walls made out of local limestone. The Southern Spa is
worth a visit, as is the in-house restaurant, even if you decide not to
stay the night. I order a coffee after lunch and settle into the Great
Room—the luxury lodge’s idea of a shared space to unwind—and
admire the biblical views of the raging waves from the Southern
Ocean crashing onto the 40m cliffs. To me, this is renewal and
rejuvenation on a whole other level in a holiday destination.
I spy infinity-edged pools against bushlands, which look utterly
inviting, but those will have to wait for another visit.
PHOTOGRAPHY: BEN GOODE
Remarkable Rocks
by night.
123–153
Zhong Zixin top and
skirt; Chaumet Bee
My Love necklace,
bracelet and ring
How has fashion impacted
the way we view the world?
In an ode to Wong Kar-wai’s influential
and atmospheric cinematography,
Chinese photographer
Leslie Zhang lenses the striking
Xiaowen Ju in romantic evening
wear from the trailblazing
Asian designers to know now.
Photography LESLIE ZHANG
Styling AUDREY HU
125
Maya Li dress;
Chaumet Bee
My Love earrings,
bracelets and rings
Oude Waag dress;
Buerlangma veil
128
129
THIS PAGE
Samuel Gui Yang shirt
and skirt; Chaumet
Bee My Love necklace,
bracelets and rings
FACING PAGE
Bad Binch Tongtong
jumpsuit; Chaumet Bee
My Love ring
130
131
THIS PAGE
Cheongsam Parlor
top; M Essential pants;
Chaumet Bee My Love
earrings, bracelets
and rings
FACING PAGE
Didu dress
133
Ming Ma dress;
Chaumet Bee My Love
earrings, necklace,
bracelets and ring
THIS PAGE
Cheongsam Parlor
top; M Essential pants;
Chaumet Bee My Love
necklace and bracelet
FACING PAGE
Chen Peng coat
Hair, Minghu Zhang;
make-up, Yooyo Keong
Ming; photographer’s
assistants, Jiabing Shen,
You Wu and Zining Liao;
stylist’s assistants, Danney
Li and Loppa; production,
Min Cai/Studio Creature
and Gaoyin Jin/Fufu Studio;
model, Xiaowen Ju.
137
On the starting line for Vogue World, Gigi Hadid
remains the reigning champion of fashion.
Photos captured from a video directed by BARDIA ZEINALI
Cinematography MARCELL RÉV
Styling VANESSA REID
n 23 June, Paris will host Vogue World.
Vogue World is a grand celebration of
fashion and a tribute to the vitality of Paris,
the eternal capital of fashion’s culture. This
year, Paris takes on another title: the capital
of sports. This event marries a century of
couture with the centennial Paris Olympics of
2024. Anna Wintour, Vogue’s global editorial
director, elucidates the philosophy behind these chic festivities. “In
2022, we aimed to revive Manhattan post-pandemic, honouring
not only the city’s extraordinary fashion community but also
New York itself. The event was so uplifting that we couldn’t resist
doing it again in the UK last year. I am thrilled that Vogue World
has now found its third home here in Paris. Vogue World Paris
will pay homage to the Olympics. We envision the evening as
fashion’s opening ceremony, uniting models, athletes and artists
to represent each decade since 1924, the last time the Olympics
were held in Paris.” This unparalleled show will take place at Place
Vendôme. “Few settings capture the rich history and glamour of
the city as well,” she adds. For this preview, we asked Gigi Hadid
to be our star competitor. In the capital, she sprints, dives, parries
and fearlessly executes flips and long jumps. Special guests such
as Isabelle Huppert and Simon Porte Jacquemus are her elegant
adversaries. At the finish line, fashion prevails because fashion is
the ultimate gymnastics.
138
FROM LEFT
Model wears Wales
Bonner polo and skirt
Hadid wears Chanel
Haute Couture dress
and sandals
Model wears On
top; Miu Miu shorts;
Under Armour shorts;
Nike socks
Huppert wears
Balenciaga dress
144
Huppert wears
Balenciaga dress
Hadid wears Nike
bra and shin guards;
Balmain turtleneck,
panties and pumps
147
Hadid wears Ovalo
dress; Jacquemus
shirt; Nike shin guards
and sneakers
Jacquemus wears
Jacquemus polo
150
Hadid wears
Schiaparelli Haute
Couture dress
Hadid wears
Valentino Le Salon
coat and pumps
Hair, Mustafa Yanaz;
make-up, Hiromi Ueda;
manicure, Hanaé Goumri;
production, North Six;
assistant directors, Yannis
Bel Lallahom, Gabriela Fin
Machado, Ava Van Osdol
and Lorna You; seamstress,
Mattia Akkermans.
153
LAST PAGE
“I worked in and survived the Sabra and Shatila
massacre in 1982, during which 3,500 unarmed men,
women and children—Palestinian refugees and
Lebanese civilians—were brutally slaughtered in three
days. Medical Aid Palestine was created more than 40
years ago and we have continued since in Gaza, West
Bank and Lebanon.
With the collective support
of thousands of people who love
justice, equality and freedom,
we will continue to make a
positive impact on the health and
well-being of the Palestinians,
making this world a better place for all. Together, we
must heal their wounds and their broken lives, help
give them medical care—and in so doing bind our own
broken hearts too.”
– Philanthropist, writer, orthopaedic surgeon and
co-founder of Medical Aid for Palestinians, DR ANG SWEE CHAI
Scan to send urgent medical aid directly to
Gaza through a trusted organisation.
Medical Aid for Palestinians works for a future where every Palestinian
has access to a comprehensive, effective and locally led system of
healthcare, and the full realisation of their rights to health and dignity.
154