Tags: magazine   magazine what women create  

ISBN: 9781800920040

Year: 2023

Text
                    INSPIRATION FOR YOUR IMAGINATION

Winter 2023/2024
Display Until March 7, 2024

$16.99 US $17.99 CDN



ARTIST: CAROLINE HYDE-BROWN, PHOTO BY MARK DAVISON, P126
From a woman’s soul, through a woman’s eyes, by a woman’s hands.® DESIGN & EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer Blot MARKETING MANAGER Sammi Thomas MANAGING EDITOR Susan Harold CIRCULATION/PRODUCTION Weekly Retail Service GRAPHIC DESIGN Wendy Dunning Thomas Smith Smith@WeeklyRetailService.com COPY EDITOR Kelly Walters
HOW TO CONTACT US CUSTOMER SERVICE & SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES WHAT WOMEN CREATE—Fulco Inc. PO Box 3000, Denville, NJ 07834-3000 844-263-3472 WomenCreateCustService@FulcoInc.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Advertise@WomenCreate.com SUBMISSION INQUIRIES Submissions@WomenCreate.com WHAT WOMEN CREATE® WINTER ISSUE 21 PUBLISHED 4 TIMES PER YEAR BY: WRSL, LLC 65 Redding Road, Box 985 Georgetown, CT 06829 WomenCreate.com POSTMASTER Please send changes of address to: WHAT WOMEN CREATE—Fulco Inc. PO Box 3000, Denville, NJ 07834-3000. Changes of address must be submitted in writing. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: WHAT WOMEN CREATE—Fulco Inc. PO Box 3000, Denville, NJ 07834-3000 What Women Create® (USPS #21640) is published quarterly by WRSL, LLC, 65 Redding Road, Box 985, Georgetown, CT 06829. Periodicals postage paid at Dover, NJ, and at additional mailing offices. What Women Create® is a registered trademark of WRSL LLC and may not be used without permission. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher or WRSL LLC. The information contained in this magazine is provided AS IS. Neither WRSL LLC, nor the publisher, make any representation or warranty with respect to this magazine or the contents thereof and do hereby disclaim all express and implied warranties to the fullest extent permitted by law. WRSL LLC and the publisher do not endorse any individuals, companies, products, services, or views featured or advertised in this magazine. ©2023 WRSL LLC, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the copyright owner.
CONTENTS 58 FEATURES 8 Diana Laufer 24 Anne-Marie Krogh 58 Melanie LeGrand 80 Sherry Karver 94 Janet Carija Brandt 112 Barbara Safranek 126 Caroline Hyde-Brown 142 Beth Kephart 4 WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 126
94 IN EVERY ISSUE 40 6 Where It Begins DEPARTMENTS 152 40 Art of Business Sarah Reed McNamara 74 Your Confident, Creative Business Wendy Batten 152 Pet Tales Phoebe, Dash and Lori Mitchell ON THE COVER FRONT: Diana Laufer BACK: Sarah Reed McNamara / Photo by Jasmine Rose WomenCreate.com 5
WHEREIt Begins n every issue of WHAT Women Create, we honor far more innovative women than just the group of artists whose stories we feature. That’s because so many of the women who share the story of their artistic journey end up giving a nod to another woman — or women — who has impacted her life and inspired her along the way. This is something I love. It not only keeps the cycle of inspiration moving forward, it provides insight into how others affect us in magical and profound ways. The act of writing down our stories makes us reflect on our eureka moments and the times we allowed others to guide us, whether it was our incredible teachers and mentors, our incredible mothers and grandmothers, or someone who casually made a suggestion or offered advice that would alter our course altogether. For Janet Carija Brandt, who has put her own spin on the venerable 17th-century art of embellished caskets through her fairy taleinspired embroidery, it was Tricia Wilson Nguyen, a designer and instructor who reacquainted Janet with the beauty and complexity of a genre she first fell in love with at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. For Barbara Safranek, it was a reflection on the creative skills she inherited from her mother, Francy King, combined with the call-to-action question posed by poet Mary Oliver: What will you do with your one wild and precious life? Diana Laufer was influenced by the instructors she encountered in college — including painter Joan Brown and artist/filmmaker Lynn Hershman Leeson, who are recognized today as trailblazers. And for Sarah Reed McNamara, it was the words of a college professor’s wife encouraging her to take a printmaking class — something she says changed the entire trajectory of her career and adult life. I Janet Carija Brandt, p 94 Barbara Safranek, p 112
Beth Kephart, p 142 Sarah Reed McNamara, p 40 Diana Laufer, p 8 These pages are filled with wonderful, unique stories on the processes behind creating, including an unconventional one by author and bookmaker Beth Kephart that is punctuated by her humorous, can-do spirit. Traditionally, Women Create stories are designed around our artists’ gorgeous photo spreads, but in this case, breaking up the text of Beth’s story and interspersing photos interrupted the flow and the funny, determined tone of a tale of transforming a pile of soggy grass into something of beauty. Even with limited photos, it’s easy to envision her overgrown lawn, the overflowing contents of the lawn mower, and her determination to “do something with it.” I’m not sure I will ever be inclined to go to the lengths Beth did to create sheets of paper, but I was happy to live vicariously through her. This issue also marks the final installment of Wendy Batten’s four-part series Your Confident, Creative Business. Wendy has been an indefatigable champion of the creative entrepreneur and a voice of support and encouragement when it comes to navigating the ups and downs of running a small business. Her perspective on prioritizing tasks, time management and customer service has been invaluable, and we are grateful to have her as part of our Women Create family. And thank YOU for being part of our Women Create family. We hope your holiday season is filled with love and creativity. Jennifer Blot, Editor in Chief WomenCreate.com 7
Diana Laufer 8 WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21

DIANA LAUFER is an assemblage artist based in the Hollywood Hills of Los Angeles, California. Born and raised in cosmopolitan LA, Diana has grown up with a confluence of cultures that inspires her work and, consequently, her experimentation in a variety of media. She is a Saori weaver, textile artist, painter and collage artist. But she always returns to her first love: assemblage and dioramas. 10 WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
Journey I grew up in the San Fernando Valley (a suburb of Los Angeles) when it was still filled with orange groves and neighbors rode by on horseback. My street had no sidewalks and it was safe for us neighborhood kids to ride our bikes and explore construction sites (collecting the slug cutouts from electrical boxes) and feed the ducks at the unfenced lake at the historical Encino Adobe. Not everything was carefree, however. As a child of a Holocaust survivor, I was raised amid fear, distrust and anxiety. Beginning in childhood, creating art was my happy place. I was a tomboy who loved being outside playing kickball, but you would often find me in my room drawing, painting or building something. Art was always my favorite subject. I attended University of California, Berkeley, where I planned on becoming a journalism major. I was always very politically active and still am. But from my very first semester, I took art electives. I was lucky to have taken classes with some amazing California artists, including painter Joan Brown, printmaker David Goines, and conceptual media artist Lynn Hershman Leeson. I left journalism behind and graduated with a degree in graphic design so I could get a job! For years, I worked as an art director and graphic designer for advertising and packaging within the entertainment industry. I really did love it for a time. It was the pre-computer era and one had to know how to draw and spec type, and have a background in art and design history, to be any good. I had a dream job designing album covers for a major music label, but it was hard to keep up with my own art practice while working in a visual field. So, I took some time off to continue making art and taking art classes, including a graphic photo montage class taught by Cindy Marsh, one of the founding members of the Women’s Graphic Center at the Woman’s Building in LA. 11 WomenCreate.com
A fter I got married in the early 80s, my husband and I traveled extensively in Mexico and South America. I was completely mesmerized by Latin American culture and folk art. The materials, the colors, the soul of it. From nichos to nativity scenes with chalkware animalitos. All beautiful, surreal worlds — dioramas in full glory! Around this time, I began creating what I have dubbed my Spirit Houses. Influenced by Latin American, Thai and Jewish folk art, I built wooden boxes with hinged doors. I created collages of ephemera, leaves and fabrics — framed in handembossed tin frames — to become the background of each box. I then built out each diorama with threedimensional objects, some of which I brought back from my travels, and others found in the remarkably rich cultural centers of Chinatown, Little Tokyo and Olvera Street, right here in Los Angeles. I loved combining different materials: colored sand, faux flowers, marbles, sequins and tulle, to name a few, all fused in the cultural influences of a true Angeleno.
In the early 90s, I became a mom and published two children’s books, which I wrote and illustrated. And then I had the opportunity to design my largest diorama yet, a set for a Los Angeles theater company! In 2010, I was diagnosed with amyloidosis. I would eventually have a stem cell transplant and then a kidney transplant (from my wonderful sister). Recovery was long and hard, but creating art was a major part of my healing process. As I always loved set design and building little worlds with my hands, I created a series of 3D sets for my rescue dogs, Chester and Stella (aka @HolyTerriers on Instagram). Each doggy diorama is handmade using wood, paper, paint and found objects. No Photoshop, filters or computer tomfoolery! When the pandemic began, being immunocompromised, I was terrified. I basically stayed home like Rapunzel (without the long blond hair) locked up in a tower. Luckily, I live in the hills, which are filled with trees, plants and lots of birdlife and I could be outside with my dogs. My passion for birding was renewed, but I still wasn’t in the headspace to create art. Spending time on Instagram, I came across a wonderful account and soon joined the @WhimsyandWonderArtClub. It was just the fun and inspiring kick in the pants I needed! I’m so grateful for this supportive group, which helped reestablish my art-making passion. For a year, I made food sculptures to get out of my head, challenge myself and just have fun. And soon, I found my way back to my first loves, assemblage and dioramas. 13 WomenCreate.com
The Process 14 Imagination has always been my sanctuary, and art my escape to a safe and happy place. My dioramas are self-contained imaginary worlds where anything is possible. Sometimes an idea for a new assemblage just pops into my head. Other times, I’m inspired by a prompt. In July of this year, Trash Lamb Gallery, a cool space in San Diego’s South Park neighborhood, had a call for art for a show titled Survival is Insufficient. Submitted art had to WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 imagine a planet in a distant universe that was overgrown with an abundance of exotic flora, but where no sentient beings existed. I instantly knew I wanted to invent mechanically engineered birds that flourished on plant life. When I begin thinking about creating a new piece, I often know immediately what the main components of the work will be made of. I usually “see” most of the items from my collections in my head.
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I go through my collection of found objects and begin to pick and choose to see what works. Creating assemblages is like painting with objects. Which pieces go together? Do they balance? How do the colors meld? What is the narrative created by the juxtaposition of the objects? I find the perfect small and very rustic box for the as-yet unbuilt body. I choose a tin bird head, not plastic. Going through my stash of wings, I like how the butterfly wings seem more exotic than bird wings. I pay close attention to size, color and texture, and then I play around with the parts until I land on what the emerging creature wants to be. I sometimes feel like a mad scientist dissecting parts to piece together. WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
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F inally, it’s time to attach the bird parts to the box. Each element requires a different way to be anchored. I use whatever is necessary to hold a piece together: glue, hammer and nails, drill and screws, miscellaneous hardware, and even soldering. Problem-solving is one of my favorite parts of creating. Now, the center of the piece, the box, is still empty. To elevate the finished artwork, I know the inside of the bird’s body has to tell a compelling story, in addition to looking fantastic. Thinking about the planet’s exotic flora, I go through my collection of vintage plastic aquarium plants and select some bright fluorescent ones. I cut them up and play around with different color combinations, but something is still missing. I get excited when I hit on the idea to use small glass bottles to emulate beakers from a science lab. I fill three small glass bottles with three different colors of the plastic plants, then fill out the box with extra faux plants to carefully craft an exotic but miniature overgrown garden. I mix and match materials until I reach that “aha” moment when I just know it feels right. Lastly, I add a vintage plastic bug for a pop of color and touch of whimsy. I create a lot of bird dioramas. As an environmental activist, I am passionate about the earth and animals. Birds are the literal canaries in the coal mine. Metaphorically, I share the plight of these beautiful creatures by showing them captive but about to break free.
“Art is highly sensitive people reporting back to the group what reality is like for them.” — Pete Holmes 19 WomenCreate.com
“Art is a fantasy house built on a real foundation. It is a conscious act of splendor and dementedness of over-reaching.” — Jerry Saltz 20 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21

“I think of images as an immune system and a transit system.” — Lynda Barry I am often asked where I find the materials I use in my assemblages. I’ve always been a collector of almost everything. I still frequent thrift stores and flea markets to seek out unusual finds. Vintage items used to be so much easier to come by, especially old wooden boxes! But, if I don’t find the right box, I’ll build one. Luckily, I have a great local resource for funky, vintage wood. My collection of materials includes old plastic and tin toys, baby doll parts, wooden cigar boxes, old watch parts, rusted metal, vintage tin spice 22 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 boxes and so much more. I also love ephemera, including ethnic paper products like Mexican papel picado, Chinese laser cut and dyed tissue, vintage Japanese water flower packs and — woohoo! — glassine envelopes. I have boxes of this stuff and nothing gets thrown away because I never know when I might need it for a new piece of art! I feel so grateful that I am able to work doing what I love. Inspired by nature and these magical found objects, I create fantasy dream worlds of whimsy and wonder. Please don’t wake me up!
What ’s Ahead My vision is to turn a plain white room — let’s say a 12-feet-by-12-feet square — into a walk-in diorama/installation. I can picture the items I’d use. They would mostly be miniature, so there would need to be a lot of pieces to fill the space: bits of paper with writing, colored string and lots of colorful tiny objects. And it will tell a story that I haven’t written yet. Diana www.DianaLauferArt.com FACEBOOK: Diana.NugitLaufer INSTAGRAM: Pompom_Empire 23 WomenCreate.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH AnneMarie Krogh PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIA BORGSMIDT/ HOUSE OF PICTURES 24 WHAT CREATE | ISSUE 21 WHAT WOMEN W
WomenCreate.com PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH

Handcrafted Artistry I began my creative career as a graphic designer at a design agency. But I began to question my profession when I was tasked with designing an annual report for the tobacco industry — at the time my mom was diagnosed with cancer. It was a challenging period for me. My husband and I were working full time and raising a small child — and my work was very demanding and stressful. I remember one afternoon arriving at my son’s nursery crying after another late pickup. Soon after that, I got sick with strep throat — but when I was well and had to go back to work, my body wouldn’t move. I called my doctor and after a candid conversation, it was clear that I had been under stress for so long that it had developed into depression. It was the hardest time —and the greatest gift. On one of my many evening walks during this time of recovering, I came across a small cellar where a sculptor held pottery courses. I signed up and found the greatest joy and peace at the wheel. I felt at home. When I couldn’t sleep at night, because my thoughts couldn’t find peace, I visualized throwing at the pottery wheel and would fall asleep. I began to get better and started working as a freelance graphic designer. It was really lovely getting back to projects, and I worked with wonderful clients who made a positive difference in the world. I decided that I would only work with clients I really resonated with. After a few years of ceramics classes in the evening and doing graphic design in the home office, I rented my own studio and renovated it completely. Here, I could spend all my evenings and breaks working with ceramics. When COVID came, I had time to create an online shop. And when life returned to normal again, I was so busy with ceramics that I didn’t have time for graphics. PHOTO BY JOSEFINE AMALIE A N N E-M A R I E K R O G H founded her cozy art and design studio on the ground floor of her home in Copenhagen, Denmark. She is passionate about working with clay and is known for her line of whimsical ceramic bonbonnieres — or boxes for candy or trinkets — and holiday-inspired bells and small ornaments. 27 WomenCreate.com
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IT HAS BEEN EIGHT YEARS since I was introduced to ceramics, starting with crafting lidded jars. I’m fascinated by creating something that can be opened to reveal something new. I use various techniques, including throwing and molding, and then the pieces are painted and personalized so that no two are identical. When I work with clay, I can quickly try something out and get a result — and there’s nothing that’s truly right or wrong. Every bonbonniere is for me a blank canvas. I paint with underglaze, ceramic watercolour and also use scrafitto, depending on my mood. I name each one and the names are often names of people I know or admire. I always look at the bonbonniere as I’m creating it to see if a name comes to mind. You can be certain that if a bonbonniere is called “Nina” or “Stine” or “Linn,” it is a favourite of mine, simply because those are people I know and love. The gold top of the box is painted on with gold lustre (12% gold). It requires working with a mask in a ventilated room. It is then placed in the kiln where the gold changes from brown to gold — it’s a real wow moment when I open the kiln! I have an 80-liter top-load kiln in my studio. I dream about a bigger studio and kiln, but studio rents are expensive and not easy to find. Also, my studio is located in the same building we live in, and that is really convenient. PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH 29 WomenCreate.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH Joy of Creation 30 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 Being creative has always been a part of my life. I was brought up in a family where it seemed everyone was doing some kind of art. It was a natural way of spending time together as a family. I remember my mom and I trying to mimic Picasso’s one-line horse at the kitchen table. To me, creativity was both a wonderful way to be connected with my family and, also, a personal escape room. A secret, quiet place — perfect for the shy and introverted child I was. My dad had built a studio where I remember experimenting for the first time with oil painting and printing equipment. Today, I am developing my craft and learning continuously. I like to work with both stoneware and porcelain, due to their distinct characteristics. Porcelain can become almost transparent when thinly thrown.
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH
BOTH OF MY GRANDPARENTS worked as porcelain painters at the Royal Copenhagen factory. I remember considering doing something similar when I was in school and was asked to pick my future profession — but was told you had to be good at chemistry, that it paid poorly and was also really physically hard. Not much positive was said about it then. So, I chose to be a graphic designer instead. Today I have merged the two and do all photography, graphic work and marketing myself. PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH 33 WomenCreate.com
PHOTO BY JOSEFINE AMALIE 34 WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 W
WomenCreate.com PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE-MARIE KROGH
I WOULD DESCRIBE MY STYLE as whimsical and poetic and feminine. I like to evoke feelings of empathy, joy and kindness. The world can never get enough of that. When I’m not working with clay, I love to sketch and give my ideas time to incubate. Later, I often go back to the sketches to translate some of the themes and images into ceramics. The outcome depends on my mood. I love flipping through the little notebooks that I have lying all over my studio. They are filled with manifestations, sketches, and thoughts. I love going through them and find that much of what I dreamed of making and achieving in the past has already happened. I never take it for granted. I feel so fortunate to have a job that makes Monday morning my favourite. 36 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
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Christmas Joy At the moment I am preparing for the Christmas season, and it is the busiest time of the year for me as a maker. I am also developing a new shape for a bonbonniere and trying to expand my knowledge of wild clay. So, there’s a lot of experimentation and development. The porcelain ornaments I make are something that I really shouldn’t be making. They are so time-consuming and difficult to fire in the kiln since they are illustrated and glazed on both sides. They can never be very profitable for me. But I love making them. I love Christmas. It’s a time filled with nostalgia and traditions, and a time to remember those who are no longer with us. I have always loved gathering with my family to create ornaments, wreaths and homemade decorations — traditions I want to pass on to my boys, who are 10 and 13. I always work intuitively, and the names of my ornaments reflect my mindset. Often titles are what comes to my mind when I look at them. Affirmation titles such as “I am” and “Trust the universe” are therefore a reflection of my own thoughts and spirituality. They are meant as little affirmation ornaments that can help you to remind yourself of something important in your own life journey. When I create a ceramic ornament in the shape of a person, I sometimes include details like a child in a woman’s arms, or a person wearing a face mask, reminiscent of the time of the COVID lockdowns. When people buy my ornaments, I enjoy hearing why they choose specific ones, and why they are meaningful to the buyer. When I express myself creatively, I am fulfilled. In a way, since clay is essentially earth, I lose touch with the earth when I’m not being creative. I hope I can continue doing what I love and coming up with new ideas for the rest of my years, like the potter Lucie Rie. Anne-Marie www.AnneMarieKroghStudio.com INSTAGRAM: AnneMarieKrogh Additional research by Bente Halkjær/House of Pictures 38 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
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Sarah Reed McNamara SRM Prints Photography by Jasmine Rose
SARAH REED MCNAMARA is a printmaker and textile ARTIST based in Rockford, Illinois. She studied art history and PRINTMAKING at Rockford University and established her storefront, SRM PRINTS STUDIO + GIFT SHOP, in the historic district of downtown Rockford, in August of 2023. Sarah has been a PRINTMAKER in the community for over a decade and her BRICK-AND-MORTAR STORE is the culmination of a dream to work for herself, curate ARTISANMADE GOODS and share her love of print. She lives in ROCKFORD with her two children and husband. I grew up in a small town called Fox River Grove, Illinois. I cannot talk about myself without talking about where I grew up because it shaped me. I loved growing up there. My earliest memories are of being outside with the freedom to play, violets in the backyard, my favorite forget-me-nots growing in the creek beds and watching the water spiders swim through the creek. My childhood was not all charmed, there were some very difficult parts, but my philosophy has always been “forward and persist.” Resilience was born in me early on, which shaped me as a woman and informs all that I do as a mother, partner, artist and business owner. I did not grow up in a feminist house per se and, for a large chunk of my early life, I didn’t have my voice. My high school years were fun, wild and full of transitions. In the middle of high school, I moved to Rockford, a new, larger city, which was a challenge, having grown up in a place where I knew everyone. I still remember the anxiety of eating lunch alone on the first day of school, but I kept my mantra: Forward and persist — you can do this. I was creative and loved the arts, and preferred quiet activity. I found my worth working 20 to 30 hours a week at a retail store, while in school. I craved the independence that working gave me and loved to do retail displays and inventory and learn from my managers. College is where everything came together for me — I loved it. I had an affirming realization of 42 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 myself, and for the first time, I felt my worth. I could excel in my college courses, not just with grades but as a person. As a first-generation college student, my experience was a long one, but I would not change it. I always loved taking scenic routes, so that’s exactly what I did — it took me 10 years to complete college and graduate. Early into my college experience, it became clear that I would be financially responsible for my education, and I began to balance working to pay for school and studying. I started at Rock Valley College, where I earned my associate degree, then spent time at DePaul University and the University of Wisconsin-Madison studying history. My time at UW Madison was met with peak burnout. I was overworked, depressed, confused and needed a break. I finally listened to my intuition and decided to drop out. I knew I would go back to college, but I needed to set the path. A few years later, in 2008, I met my husband at an art fair (love at first sight!). We married in 2011. One of the kindest, most supportive and optimistic people I know, he knew of my struggles with college and how much I wanted to go back. He made it clear that he was there to help me with my goals. I decided to apply to Rockford University and, upon acceptance, decided on a double major in art history and history. Though a creative person, I had never taken any formal art classes. I didn’t even draw for fun! I was scared but decided on Printmaking 101, as I knew the professor’s wife and she had encouraged me.
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M y life would be incredibly different if printmaking and I hadn’t found each other. One studio course at Rockford University changed the entire trajectory of my adult life and career. I was able to continue taking printmaking electives to fulfill my studio courses and was simultaneously drawn to printmakers in my art history studies, specifically German printmaker Käthe Kollwitz, Elizabeth Catlett, and Mexican printmakers of the Taller de Gráfica Popular. After graduating in 2012, I took a full-time nonprofit job but continued to work at my printmaking. I had a dream that someday I could make it a full-time career — if I found the right avenues. I was working on a new collection of linoleum block prints when I was invited to do my first solo show at a local cafe. This is when SRM Prints was born. The day before the show, I realized I would need business cards and social media handles — so I typed out my initials, followed by “Prints,” and there we were! After that, I began to show my work more frequently, taking opportunities that came my way (never feeling I was too good for something), 44 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 while learning to market myself. I also opened an Etsy shop. In 2015, I became pregnant with my daughter (born 2016). I had a very tough pregnancy, was put on bed rest, and had to leave my nonprofit job. I even took a hiatus from printmaking, because I couldn’t do anything! The first couple of months of raising a newborn (my daughter was a preemie) were exhausting, but I began to feel my creativity grow and develop. I continued to make linocut prints at home, and was teaching myself textile printmaking, utilizing our dining room table as my workspace. I began by hand-printing onesies, swaddles and clothing for my daughter, and eventually printed kitchen towels, linens and yardage. My brain could not rest. When my daughter was 6 months old, I felt ready to be back in the classroom and audited a printmaking class at my alma mater. I was planning large-scale prints for an art show, and it was perfect timing to get studio time. A month later, I found myself expecting again, with our son (born 2017). While I was surprised, it was very welcome and it didn’t hold me back. I had an easier pregnancy this time around and managed to power through the creation of large print blocks for the show.
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T hen, while still pregnant, I was invited to do a large-scale textile installation and prints for a summer exhibition at the Rockford Art Museum. I said “yes,” without hesitating — only to realize the install was planned for a few weeks after my son’s due date. With the incredible support of fellow artists and the museum curator, I was able to accomplish the entire project, bringing my newborn son to install with me every day. You never know when an opportunity will be given again, so you make it work. After the exhibition, my business began to rapidly grow, both online, through social media, and through participation in art fairs and markets. I was beginning to see real earnings. I moved into my first studio space in 2017, which had room for my two main printmaking practices — linoleum block printmaking and 46 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 textile printing. It was time to separate the practice from the home and treat it like work. Two of my hardest years of work building my brand were 2018 and 2019. My kids were young, but I knew that to grow a handmade business, hard work and long days were needed. I put myself out there and applied to more competitive art markets. Fortunately, I was accepted to everything I applied to. During those years, I spent every weekend from October to Christmas at art fairs and markets. I also worked nights a lot — usually until 2 a.m. during the week — because I didn’t want to miss out on time with my kids during the day. I cannot underscore how much physical energy printmaking takes, from muscle memory to endurance. All the hard work paid off: I was able to build a strong customer base, make friendships with other makers and business owners, and find a community of folks I could relate to.
Seeing a need for more artist opportunities in our city, another maker and I began to host handmade events and pop-up shops. We went on to form an artists’ collective — GEM: Gather, Engage, Make — establishing ourselves in a storefront in Rockford’s historic downtown. We moved our maker spaces inside and offered a curated retail section of artistmade goods. I ran the retail storefront; and over the course of four years, GEM hosted numerous events and workshops and leased studio spaces to women artists. I grew a passion for running a brick-and-mortar and, in December 2022, I became the sole proprietor of the storefront. But I began to feel overwhelmed running the large space alone and felt it was time to take the next step with my printmaking business, which would mean a new storefront and moving away from the collective. Though my kids were getting bigger, I still wanted to be with them every day and realized that I could make this work for us — if I did it my way. “When we are young, the words are scattered all around us. As they are assembled by experience, so also are we, sentence by sentence, until the story takes shape.” — Louise Erdrich, The Plague of Doves 47 WomenCreate.com
O ne day I walked by a neighboring business that had moved. Seeing the storefront empty, I saw it in an entirely new way and fell in love with it, visualizing what it could be. I signed the lease and spent June and July of this year preparing the new storefront, while closing out the other one, all while running my handmade business. SRM Prints Studio + Gift Shop opened August 1, and it is my absolute dream! Opening day was incredibly heartwarming, seeing my community show up to the space that is fondly called “the colorful shop on the corner.” Through thrifting and vintage sales, I sourced every special fixture and display in the shop and spent day and night curating the storefront, printing textiles and planning the build-out for opening day. I didn’t go into the move with a planned budget (I don’t know that I recommend this!), but I worked week to week to make it happen. I kept the faith that each week, I could get to the next. The storefront is inviting. I want people to feel happy when they come in and for my customers to embrace handmade items. I sell my print work, made in-house, along with curated artisan-made gifts, letterpress prints, ceramics and stationery goods. 48 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
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“I do not want to die … until I have faithfully made the most of my talent and cultivated the seed that was placed in me until the last small twig has grown.” — Käthe Kollwitz I run my shop family-style. That means my kids are often here. They belong here. I created the sweetest kids’ spot in a front window display for all kids to play in when they are here with their families. Being an artist-operated brickand-mortar means that I have learned to stop apologizing for what I cannot do (this has been a huge growth point for me), like being open 24/7. I try to open six to seven days a week, but I’m the only employee — and life can happen. The shop 50 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 hours during the week are based on school days and my family’s life balance. I won’t miss my kids’ childhood. I want other women to feel empowered to do things their way — you can be a success on your terms and your people will find you. I also want other makers to see the timeline of how it happened for me. It wasn’t an overnight success, which social media can mislead folks to believe. It was a gradual success that took shape over many years of dedication to developing my craft.
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M y business challenges are always related to time. I rely on block scheduling my calendar, creating daily task lists, and setting high production goals. If I don’t meet them, I still have my short goals attained. I have learned to set boundaries with myself and others. Saying no is not my strong suit, but I am working on it. I allow myself long lead times for custom projects, since I am balancing a household, studio and storefront. My next goal is to give myself more time off. I’ve never had investors (besides my customers!), or small business loans, outside of what my husband and I put into SRM Prints for materials in the beginning. My business has been a “from the ground up” endeavor, coming to fruition by my hands, heart and brain. My textile practice feeds the business and allows me to create a sustainable business model. 52 WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21


I get scared often. Sometimes I dive in too deep, without having a plan. I can be impulsive, but I always listen to my intuition. Running a small business is hard and I am always learning. I ask myself questions every week: Will this be a busy week? Will I make it? Should I be working every weekend, away from my kids and partner? What can I do better? How can I let those who offer to help, help? Am I supporting other local businesses enough? Why is my house always a disaster!? One of my greatest challenges is asking for help, but I am getting better at it. I get lost in my head and feel isolated, but that is when I realize I need to talk to one of my maker friends and my husband. It’s my goal to hire an employee soon! If I could give any advice to other makers or small shops, it’s to trust your intuition — no one knows you as well as you do! Create a circle of trusted individuals who will listen to you when you need it and return the favor when the time comes. Supporting other creatives and small businesses is imperative for this journey. We are stronger when we are all thriving and supported. My anxiousness ebbs and flows, but I remind myself that I have created a career from printmaking, from my ideas. I am living a life now where I am the adult, the creator, the parent and I choose to feel gratitude for this life. I am filled with happiness every day that I get to walk into my shop and do the work — often with my family by my side. Sarah SRMprints FACEBOOK: SRMprints ETSY: www.Etsy.com/shop/SRMprints INSTAGRAM: 55 WomenCreate.com
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THROUGH THE LENS JASMINE ROSE is a photographer native to the Midwest. She loves photography because she is fascinated with light and hooked on the endless chase of visual expression. She has experience with commercial photography, but her main passion is taking portraits of people. Every person has a special and unique magic about them, and capturing that spark of something on camera is important — and fun! Many people can feel hesitation over being photographed because we all have worries about how we are perceived. Jasmine tries to make the process feel as natural as possible. She is passionate about trying to share with others how beautiful they are. Photography can frame the way someone remembers and shares their story in the future. How it felt to be in that moment, to wear that outfit, to love those people. It’s the closest thing to pausing time for ourselves. When Jasmine is not taking photos, she also creates stained-glass art through her business Electric Luster. Jasmine www.JasminePhotos.com INSTAGRAM: Jasmirose

Manie Leand P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y L I S A A C E V E S 59 WomenCreate.com
Background story I grew up in a small town in Ohio. My creative journey began in these early years when my family went through a traumatic experience the year I turned 12. As a shy introvert, I learned to express myself by writing stories and poetry. I didn’t realize it at the time, but visiting my grandparents’ farm a few hours away provided unique childhood experiences that fostered the art of daydreaming and furthered my passion for various forms of creative expression. I can see now those opportunities were blessings. Then and now, time spent outside — unhurried and pausing to reflect — sparks a connection within myself that in turn reveals something God-given, honest and pure. In those moments when I let my guard down and set free whatever is speaking to me, something bold and beautiful is birthed, especially in my work. Looking back at times in my life when I’ve encountered trials or difficulties, I’ve experienced that honesty, which has guided me as I have evolved into the woman and artist I am today. As Miranda Lambert sings: MELANIE LEGRAND is a self-taught metalsmith artist and jewelry designer. She resides in Georgia with her husband and their 11-year-old son. Her journey is inspired by her travels with her family and time spent exploring nature. When she isn’t in her studio hammering away or sifting through trays of turquoise, you can find her in the garden, journaling new ideas and designs or taking long walks with her feisty terrier, Henry. 60 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 “I carry them around with me I don’t mind having scars Happiness ain’t prison But there’s freedom in a broken heart” There’s freedom in the broken places. It’s the birthplace of grit and grace, where the story shines. When they collide, it’s magic. Each piece I create tells a story. It comes from a passionate desire to make beautiful things, born out of heart and soul. When I feel passion work its way into a piece of jewelry, it is soul satisfying. And if someone else loves it, too, the journey is beyond rewarding.
The Joney My metalsmithing journey began while vacationing in Hawaii with my husband for our 10th anniversary. I purchased a hand-knotted necklace crafted by a local artist, and the delicacy of the knots and little beads captured my attention in a way that prompted me to start researching how to knot jewelry. There weren’t many avenues at that time to learn such techniques. Through a great amount of trial and error, I taught myself. A third-grade teacher by day and hand-knotter in my free time, I found great joy in learning this technique. This all transpired at a time when my husband and I could not conceive, spending years with various doctors and procedures all ending in disappointment. Two years after we walked away from all forms of medical help, by the grace of God, we found out we were pregnant all on our own. That entire year I felt like I was surrounded by angels. It’s hard to describe, but I was so thankful and grateful, I felt like I floated through the entire pregnancy in awe that I would get to be a mom. At 39 years old, I was considered at risk due to my age, but the entire pregnancy and birth were surrounded by little miracles and blessings. Not long after my son was born, I started my business on Etsy, aptly named Angelic Whimsey. Watching metalsmithing videos, reaching out to other metalsmiths, reading technique books and taking online classes while my son napped, kept the momentum going. WomenCreate.com
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In the beginning, everything I created revolved around wings, angels and feathers. Gradually, I learned additional metalsmithing techniques, continuing to develop and explore new ideas. What started as a confined station in an extra bedroom turned into a full-time jewelry business with a fully equipped studio. I’ve designated specific workstations and studio areas for metalworking and hammering; bezel and stone setting; my hydraulic press and associated tools; my inspiration board; torch table; photographing station; a shipping station and metal clay work station, complete with my pretty turquoise kiln. And, of course, I have a special place designated just for Henry — even though he tries to steal my studio chair whenever he can! My favorite part of this journey is how much I have been able to share it with my son. When he was little, I made a space in my studio where we created all kinds of things together, and, also, where he could explore ideas on his own whenever he wanted. With an abundance of art supplies, we played music and worked side by side for many years. Now that he is 11, he enjoys designing robots and engineering amazing projects and has his own “studio,” but we still enjoy sharing creative time together. My studio is my happy place, designed to be functional and fun. Whimsical art and family photos decorate the walls. Mementos from my family and a vision board provide lots of color and joy. I keep inspirational magazines and books on hand. My favorite music and twinkle lights keep the studio cheerful and vibrant. Henry, my faithful helper, steals anything that hits the floor and keeps me on my toes! I look forward to coming to work every day to see where my creativity will take me next! 63 WomenCreate.com
Inspiration I have a knack for finding hearts everywhere I go. I can’t recall the first one, but it all started after my son was born. They kept appearing out of nowhere, and oftentimes during memorable experiences in my life, and now I have an entire container filled with heart treasures that continues to grow. Every single time I find one, I am reminded of Mary Oliver’s quote, “Keep some room in your heart for the unimaginable.” I want to be receptive to unexpected and extraordinary experiences, possibilities and emotions that I might not have imagined. Essentially, it’s about being open to the magic and wonder that life can bring your way. I thrive on the wonder. I chase it every day. It’s the catalyst for everything I create. The quote by E. B. White, “Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder,” hangs in my studio as a reminder. Nature is my muse, but unique turquoise stones are where my design process begins. Several years ago, we took a family vacation to Arizona, visiting Sedona and the Grand Canyon. We hiked, explored ruins, followed a well-known trail and river and stood in awe of the amazing rock formations around every bend. This trip inspired my love for turquoise, Native American history and American Western lifestyle. I’ve almost exclusively worked with turquoise ever since. 64 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21

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The Proce There’s a bit of mystery when I begin a new idea or collection, sort of like a novel. You can’t know the end until you begin. Any time I create in the studio, it’s a lovely departure from my methodical approach to my personal life. My creativity is not organized: It flows naturally and my work is perfectly imperfect. I think that’s why I’m so inspired by nature. I tend to dream up new ideas when I’m out of the studio, observing nature’s diversity and unpredictability. It teaches valuable lessons about resilience and adaptation. My work process is very similar. I usually start with a specific idea that adapts and changes as I go. In this case, I was drawing upon our family adventure this summer to Wyoming. For a recent project, I knew I wanted to make hair combs, buttons and brooches that reflected the Wyoming landscape and lifestyle — robin’segg-blue skies, lush green grass, mountain range formations with blue rivers of water — along with a flair for American Western design. I keep a variety of turquoise stones on hand at all times to choose from and, before I begin any actual work, I take my time selecting stones that reflect the integrity of the project. Once stones are chosen, I start by making background shapes from sterling sheet by using templates in my hydraulic press or by cutting shapes with metal shears. 67 WomenCreate.com
All edges are prepped and filed. My hallmark stamp is added to the back of all my work for authenticity. I carefully shape bezel wire around each stone and solder together. This requires precision, so the stone will fit snugly. Once it is cleaned of all firescale, I solder the bezel to the background shape. The sterling is cleaned again after each torch session. 68 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
I like to add additional embellishments, like beaded wire or sterling balls, for texture. It is a slow and steady process and requires being very careful not to melt the metal or have the solder overflow. Once finished, I add a patina that darkens the metal and allows the deeper recesses to pop with character. 69 WomenCreate.com
My work goes in a tumbler where it is polished. After it comes out of the tumbler, I polish it again and use a strong adhesive to attach the decorative part of the comb, brooch or button to the backing. One of my favorite parts is packaging up my work and sending it off with love, always attaching a handwritten note. WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
Whe I’m Going My work continues to evolve as I readily explore and learn new techniques. Future travels on the horizon will no doubt ignite new ideas and opportunities, as does the change of every season. Inspiration is everywhere. In the future, my husband and I would like to relocate to the Southwest. It is my dream to have an open studio where I work and also sell my jewelry. A place surrounded by natural beauty where I can offer private metalsmithing classes and share my knowledge with others. My business has become a platform for my work and my story. I am thankful for those who support me and have encouraged me on my journey. “Now to him who is able to do immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine, according to his power that is at work within us.” — Ephesians 3:20 Melanie www.AngelicWhimsey.com INSTAGRAM: AngelicWhimsey FACEBOOK: Angelic Whimsey Handcrafted 71 WomenCreate.com
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THROUGH THE LENS LISA ACEVES is a self-taught photographer, and a wife and mother of two, with a passion for capturing the essence of beauty and style. With a background and degrees in fashion and marketing, she brings a unique perspective to every photo shoot. Lisa takes pride in empowering women through her work, showcasing their strength, grace and entrepreneurship that defines them as the remarkable individuals they are. With an innate ability to make her subjects feel comfortable in front of the camera, she creates a collaborative and enjoyable atmosphere on set, understanding that personal branding is of the utmost importance. When Lisa isn’t behind the lens, she enjoys supporting and collaborating with small business owners who are women, celebrating their achievements and contributing to their success through photography and insightful marketing strategies. With an overriding commitment to excellence, she endeavors to bring out and highlight each client’s personal story by focusing on their individual and unique path to reach the success they envision for themselves. Lisa INSTAGRAM: LMarie.Photography_ 73 WomenCreate.com
PART 4 OF A 4-PART SERIES Your Confident, Creative Business Where to FOCUS YOUR TIME as a creative business owner W elcome back to the final installment of Your Confident, Creative Business series! I’m Wendy Batten, a retail coach with years of experience in the retail and small business trenches and, just like you, a creative soul at heart. I’m also an imperfect time manager. Truthfully, I feel it will forever and always be something I have to be intentional about. In this article, we’ll dive into the important topic of where to invest your precious time as a creative small business owner. It’s not about managing time: It’s about prioritizing with intention so that you can build a business that serves you and your creative lifestyle. The Time Conundrum As creative small business owners, our businesses often become an all-encompassing endeavor, leaving us little room for the creativity that drove us in the first place. It’s important to remember that we can’t “do it all.” It’s not about being more efficient or using a better planner. The truth is: You don’t HAVE to do anything. The constant need to feel we SHOULD do everything is what causes stress and anxiety. I’m an advocate for limiting what we do and giving ourselves permission to set boundaries, set down some of those balls we are juggling and give ourselves some grace and space. But how? To start, I would love for you to define your time and really think about: 1. LIFE TIME — not working on or in the business 2. WORK TIME — the actual hours you want to spend on business Some weeks, it might be more of one or another — life happens. Set a plan for your work hours and do whatever you can to protect those “off work” times to enjoy your life. 74 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
This simple exercise feels heavy to some. It was for me (for many years): I should be working on this next proposal or I’ll just check my socials and emails really quickly. I promise, if you set some boundaries and bumpers around your “life time,” you will be so much happier and you will avoid burnout (and resentment) from your business. Make this an executive CEO decision and give yourself permission to separate the hours. The choice is yours to make, no one else will. I personally stopped looking at emails, DMs and notifications during life time. As a former people pleaser this was (and still is) really hard. But I made a commitment to my well-being, and my business’s well-being. I am not a brain surgeon or emergency worker, and while my small business clients are super important to me, as far as I know, no one has died from me not answering emails — and my business is doing just fine. I set the boundaries and, as a bonus, my customers seem to respect me more for it. Yours will too, so stick to work during your work hours. So, what should we focus on during our “work time”? Making Time for Your Business Once you have your working hours established, you have to be intentional about where to focus that limited time. Run Your Business by Design, Not Default Many of us venture into business with dreams of being our own boss and setting our own rules. The reality, though, is that being your own boss is tough. To succeed, you must understand the difference between working in your business and working on your business. We’ve established the difference between work time and life time. Now, what can we do in those work times to be most effective in our creative business? Competing priorities, squirrel brain (shiny object syndrome is a real thing) and our natural creative curiosity get in our way a lot. There are five key areas that need to get consistent attention in order for a business to grow and thrive. When you work on these five things, in your now-structured work hours, you WILL find a way to make it work. You will be getting the essential items done, and by focusing on what matters most. When we have unlimited time, it fills up. When we have finite time or structured time, we will fill it with what matters most. WENDY BATTEN is a small business coach and consultant for creative shop owners. She is obsessed with helping small business owners develop their business skills, get comfortable with the business side, and reclaim their dream of growing a thriving creative retail business through her online courses, business coaching programs and her popular podcast. With 20-plus years of small business experience, including running a successful creative retail and studio business, she understands what it’s like to be in the trenches. Wendy works with hundreds of creative shop owners across the globe from a crooked cottage home by the sea that she shares with her photographer husband in Nova Scotia, Canada. 75 WomenCreate.com
The Five Core Areas to Focus Your Time It’s not enough to be busy. The question is: What are we busy about? To run your creative retail business successfully, there are five core areas where you must focus your time. This is the shift that changed everything in my business from feeling chaotic to thriving. We, as humans and especially as creatives, tend to veer to the things we like to do more than the things we need to do as creative CEOs. Here are the five areas we, as creative business owners, need to make sure we are spending that work time on. 76 WHAT W WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 1 Business Development Business development is often overlooked or used as a procrastination tool. However, investing time in improving your business foundations, acquiring new skills and staying updated is crucial for long-term success. Learning and growth should never stop. Tasks in this category may include: • Purposeful educational time • Reviewing metrics/Key Performance Indicators and • • • • Quarterly and yearly planning Decision-making Vision storming for the business Research and development
Marketing + Sales 2 Marketing and sales are non-negotiables for any business. The time you invest here can have a significant impact on your profitability and sustainability. Putting the right strategy in place is key to your business success. Done right, marketing can yield substantial returns on your time, energy and money. Tasks in this category include: • • • • • Planning marketing events Promotional calendar planning Creating shop/market displays Community outreach/awareness Creating, scheduling and promoting content Creative Work 3 Don’t forget the heart of your business — the creative work that generates income. It’s easy to get caught up in administrative tasks and neglect the very work that sustains your business. Tasks in this area: • Anything that is considered your revenue-generating work
4 Customer Service/ Serving Your Customers Customer service plays a pivotal role in shaping your customers’ perceptions of your business. Exceptional customer service can turn customers into raving fans who refer others. Customer service can (and should) be limited to your working hours. (I promise you will get used to this.) Tasks in this category include: • Managing and responding to emails • Handling direct messages • In-person customer interactions • Coordinating custom work requests • Streamlining and delegating customer service tasks to free up your time while ensuring your clients feel well taken care of 5 Administrative and Operations These are the essential but often time-consuming tasks that keep your business running smoothly. While necessary, they don’t directly generate revenue for you. Tasks in this category include: • • • • • Organizing paperwork and receipts Invoicing and tracking payments Bookkeeping and accounting Customer database management Any repeatable tasks Recognize that these tasks can easily eat up your time, so it’s crucial to systematize, delegate or eliminate them as much as possible.
Your action steps: Keep this time pyramid handy and pay attention to where you allocate your time. Understanding where to spend your time as a creative small business owner is the key to unlocking your business’s true potential. By prioritizing your tasks with intention and focusing on what matters in your business, you can transition from feeling like the business is running you to thriving as a creative entrepreneur. Personally, this time pyramid helped me learn to work on what’s important and realize that working on the admin for hours and hours wasn’t my zone of genius, or making me money, so I streamlined and delegated that portion and now spend more time on the things that matter at the top of the pyramid. It’s a game-changer for me, and is for my clients, too. Remember, it’s about making time for your life and your business’s health. Are you ready to run your business by design, not by default? Invest your time wisely and watch your creative business soar to new heights. Connect with me if you need any support with your creative business, it would be my pleasure to help you. Is your mission larger than your excuses? For many (myself included), this pyramid was completely inverted initially. Only when I flipped it did I see my business grow. A HELPFUL TIP | Replace “I have to” with “I get to” and see how your mindset changes around organizing your time and doing the harder things! Wendy www.WendyBatten.com PODCAST: The Creative Shop Talk Podcast www.WendyBatten.com/Podcast-Intro INSTAGRAM: WendyBatten.biz 79 WomenCreate.com
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Photography by Chris Hardy SHERRY KARVER
California artist SHERRY KARVER is not a traditional photographer. She pushes the boundaries of photography by combining her images with other materials to create a new hybrid that engages the viewer on many different levels. 82 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 M y journey as an artist has had numerous twists and turns — in a good way. If you had asked me years ago where I would be in 2023, or what kind of artwork I would be making, I could never have guessed. Things just have a way of evolving on their own. I was born and raised in Chicago, Illinois, an only child to parents who were Holocaust survivors from Poland. Art was not an important element to them, but inadvertently they both were instrumental in my early interest in art. My dad was a tailor so there were always scraps of fabric laying around that I would cut up and create things with; and my mother worked for a company that made the
little colored squares glued on paint store brochures. She would bring home extra ones, which developed my interest in colors early on. I was probably the only 6-year-old who knew what aubergine or chartreuse looked like. I was enrolled in Saturday kids classes at the Art Institute of Chicago and that probably had the biggest impact on my love of art. The Art Institute opened to the public at 10 a.m., but the classes started at 9 a.m., so the guards would let us kids in whenever we arrived — and I was always the first one there. I got to walk through the entire Art Institute by myself in the semi-darkness because the lights weren’t all on, and the air was cool since the heat wasn’t on yet, and I was surrounded by all these amazing paintings and sculptures. It was magical. Can you imagine nowadays letting kids walk through a museum alone before it opened? I was really lucky to have such an experience every Saturday morning. By the time I got to college my parents wanted me to study something where I could get a job, so I majored in sociology at Indiana University in Bloomington. I found sociology interesting, but my heart wasn’t really into working in that field. I had no idea what I wanted to do until my senior year. I had time to take a ceramics class and that literally changed my life. I knew then and there I was never going into sociology. I was hooked on ceramics. 83 WomenCreate.com
A fter graduating, I opened a ceramic shop and studio in Chicago with a business partner under the Morse Avenue elevated train tracks. It was a wonderful experience for four years — until I heard something telling me I needed to teach ceramics. This itself was a magical experience, as I was driving home from the shop one afternoon on the Outer Drive in Chicago and I heard a voice from somewhere telling me to go back to graduate school. I cannot to this day explain where this voice came from, but I knew I had to follow the direction. I went back to school and got my MFA at the Newcomb Art Department at Tulane University in New Orleans, so I could teach college-level ceramics. I moved around for the next several years, following teaching jobs at the University of Wisconsin, Milwaukee, San Diego State University, Chico State, and finally ended up in Oakland, California, teaching ceramics at Laney College for 30 years. Although I loved teaching ceramics, my own work gradually evolved into photography and mixed media painting around 2000. Never in a million years did I think I would leave ceramics, but things have a funny way of happening. For a number of years, I had been working on a series of two-dimensional clay wall sculptures that I would hammer apart into many small pieces and reassemble much like a jigsaw puzzle, epoxying the pieces onto wooden boards. One day I was distracted and stepped away in the middle of doing this, and by the time I got back, some of the pieces had shifted and the epoxy had hardened enough so that I couldn’t fit the rest of the pieces in — and I was only half done. Not wanting to waste the part already finished, I decided to paint the rest of the board with oils, and a new direction was born. Sometimes, a mistake or an unforeseen accident leads to a whole new idea. 84 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
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I PHOTO COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER started leaving out more and more clay pieces until the board was just paint. Simultaneously, I also began exploring photography and Photoshop on the computer and started to incorporate those images into my work. At that time, my husband, poet and novelist Jerry Ratch, and I were living in the Emeryville Artists’ Cooperative in Emeryville, California, in a wonderful studio that had skylights but no windows. Needing more air circulation and light since I was now painting with oil, we left the co-op and bought the former Rockridge Woman’s Club in Oakland. In its heyday in the 1930s, the club had 300 members, but over the years that dwindled down to only half a dozen when we bought it. We converted it to a live/work space where we still are today — 22 years later. Currently, I have two ongoing series. Identity and Perception combines my photo images with oil, narrative text and resin surface on wood panels, and deals with issues of how we are as individuals within crowds, often experiencing loneliness, alienation, loss of identity, memories, etc. My Missing Pieces of the Puzzle series began during COVID, when Jerry and I stopped going out much and got hooked on doing commercial jigsaw puzzles. I noticed that the puzzles often looked more interesting when they were only half done with pieces missing, which gave me the idea to have my own photos made into puzzles. People are often searching for things in life they have missed. Since the pandemic, people have missed opportunities — missed seeing family and friends, traveling, eating in restaurants, etc. It has been a universal missing of things that were once familiar and ordinary that we just took for granted. 86 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
PHOTO COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER I leave out some sections of the puzzle when putting it together, and paint the negative spaces with oils. The left-out pieces in my work represent our search for the missing pieces in our lives, or in the world, and the realization that not everything can be found and replaced. This series conveys our need to find the acceptance and serenity in what is not there, and the hopefulness that the missing parts could be open spaces for something new to enter the picture. “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” — Oscar Wilde 87 WomenCreate.com
I will explain exactly how these works are created: I begin by putting together numerous photos I have taken and use Photoshop to seamlessly combine them into one image. I then send the image to various companies I use that make custom puzzles, in the U.S., China, and even Bratislava, and get them back in a box of 1000 pieces. I have to admit that my husband puts the puzzles together, since that is the hobby he enjoys most, while I am coming up with new images and working on the next part of this multistep process. I spend hours deciding which pieces to take out and what to leave in, which is much harder than it seems. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER 88 WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 WHAT W HAT W
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER Once I have decided this, I coat the front and back with a thin layer of Mod Podge to hold it all together for easier handling. Smaller puzzles are made in one piece while larger ones are done with two halves. 89 WomenCreate.com
PHOTOS COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER I test different colors for the background and paint the wood panel with oil paint about a week before gluing the puzzle onto it, giving the paint a chance to dry well. I only paint the sections of the panel that are visible, not where the puzzle will be placed. The puzzle is then glued to the board using Elmer’s glue, with bricks placed on top to seal it down firmly. After another week of letting all of this dry completely, I do a resin pour over the entire surface and use a propane torch to get rid of any bubbles that appear. Resin pours can be tricky and I recommend watching YouTube demonstrations, which is how I learned to do it. This is very important: Be sure to wear a face mask, goggles, rubber gloves and long sleeves so that no resin touches your skin, and nothing is accidentally inhaled or gets into your eyes. I usually do two or three resin pours several days apart in order to get a nice even surface.
PHOTO COURTESY OF SHERRY KARVER “There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.” — Anthem, Leonard Cohen W hat I find especially interesting, or perhaps coincidental, is that my work has come full circle from earlier ceramic wall sculptures, that I hammered apart and reconstructed onto panels much like jigsaw puzzles, and my current work, which is similar in concept, but uses totally different materials — actual jigsaw puzzles! Sherry www.SherryKarver.com INSTAGRAM: SherryKarver 91 WomenCreate.com

THROUGH THE LENS CHRIS HARDY has been a photojournalist for more than 30 years, working primarily for the Los Angeles Times, the San Francisco Examiner and the San Francisco Chronicle. Over the course of his newspaper career, he photographed major news stories, from Super Bowls to the Space Shuttle landing and the Loma Prieta earthquake, as well as a wide range of celebrities, politicians and business leaders. Chris was born in Long Beach, California, and attended Cal State University, Fullerton, where he studied graphics and photography. He started working as a photographer for the Los Angeles Times while he was still in school. He then went on to work for the San Francisco Examiner for 22 years, where he helped develop the digital photography program. He spent five years with the San Francisco Chronicle before going out on his own as a freelancer and photography teacher at San Francisco’s Academy of Art University in 2005. Chris’ freelance work includes shooting the arts, sports and travel, as well as corporate identity and promotional photos. His photographs have appeared Time, Newsweek and Life magazines, as well as in books and on album covers. His awards include more than 20 San Francisco Bay Area Press Photographers Association awards, five California Press Photographers Association awards, and six national Picture of the Year awards. Chris www.ChrisHardyPhoto.com INSTAGRAM: ChrisHardyPhotos 93 WomenCreate.com
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Janet Carija Brandt Photography by ChrisKauschPhotography.com 95 WomenCreate.com
Janet Carija Brandt is an embroidery/textile artist living in Indianapolis, Indiana. She really likes to embroider. In fact, it was her husband who pointed out the obvious to her: “You need your stitching. You’re happiest when you are stitching. You’re always stitching!” — or words to that effect. And all her work proves it. 96 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
Needing Needlewk I remember the first time I saw a skein of embroidery floss. I was 5, maybe 6, and standing in front of the thread counter at Kresge’s. It was a yellow-orange shade of thread and I wanted it so badly. A skein of floss gives me the same thrill today. I am a self-taught embroiderer with lots of bad habits. I only learned about these stitching no-nos, like licking my thread and putting knots on the back of my work, in the last 10 to 15 years. I’m glad I didn’t know sooner. Too many rules. My first embroidery attempts were kits. They were great because all the materials were included and there were so many new stitches to learn. I grew up in Gary, Indiana, a melting pot of Eastern European communities. I have loved folk embroideries and the embroideries of my Croatian heritage all my life. My parents owned a women’s clothing store. I did fashion illustrations, dressed windows, and planned back-to-school fashion shows. And to think none of that exists anymore. … But I loved it all. The best part of Gary was having Chicago a short train ride away. The Chicago Art Institute was free and empty. Brentano’s bookstore on Wabash had a great art and architecture department. Architecture was my first real detour from embroidery. I had originally planned to study weaving and textiles but switched majors and colleges at the last minute. I did stitch during those years, but as the only woman in the class I had to do it on the sly. It was considered too girly. Of course, the best part of my college years was meeting my husband. He has been my greatest stitching supporter ever since. The next decades pass in a blur of detours called marriage, children, and a huge variety of freelance jobs in graphic design and architectural model building. I made my first doll after our daughter was born. I’m still making them. I passed through a period of wearable art and rug hooking. Rug hooking was too labor-intensive for me, so I decided to combine the wool fabric I was using for rugs with my love for embroidery. It led to my first book, WOW! Wool-on-Wool Folk Art Quilts. I enjoyed writing and designing for books, magazines and manufacturers. It was the perfect work-from-home job. More books followed and more embroidery was incorporated into the quilts. My last book was about the creative process in each and every one of us. I explored digitized embroidery and created an entire collection of ethnic dolls using digitized embroidery to stitch everything from the body shapes to the costumes. And then it was time for architecture again — only on a miniature scale. I decided to remodel the dollhouse I had made for our daughter so many years before. This was the beginning of the Red House, Once Upon A Time and The World of Possibilities, an all-new embroidery journey that took a very unexpected form. 97 WomenCreate.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF JANET CARIJA BRANDT The Casket Jrney Casket is a 17th-century word for box. In the 1600s, these boxes were covered with lavish 3D embroideries in a technique then-called “raised embroidery,” but now called stumpwork by many. I saw my first embroidered casket at the Victoria and Albert Museum as a college student studying in London. It was love at first sight. It was also a very long time ago (1974)! The materials and shapes for this type of embroidery were reintroduced by Tricia Wilson Nguyen and her company Thistle Threads for the first time in almost 400 years. I knew I wanted to create my own story to go on my own casket. That is, casket singular. I never imagined I would eventually create four very different ones! 98 WHAT W WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 I found Tricia’s website quite by accident. I was already experimenting with raised embroidery, but here was a class telling me about those wonderful embroidered boxes like the ones I had seen at the V&A all those years before. Tricia was offering a class that included an in-depth history of 17th-century raised embroidery, hundreds of detailed reference photos, all the step-by-step stitch instructions and — best of all — threads, trims and the unique boxes, available for the first time in 400 years. The first offering of the Cabinet of Curiosities class was well underway. I signed up for the next class as soon as it was offered. That was 10 years ago. In addition to covering the boxes, I created small dolls of the main characters, a theater, a castle cross-section, maps and extra illustrations to tell my story. The theme is the Golden Rule. Of course, it takes place in the Golden Rule Mountains, with two kingdoms and two kings: the Dragon Prince who believes “he who has the gold rules,” and the Princely Dragon, who lives by “treat others as you want to be treated.” I stitched my story using characters from fairy tales, nursery rhymes, fables, and my imagination. The outsides of the boxes are just the beginning. Inside you’ll find hidden drawers, secret compartments and expanding scenes. Visitors find something new each time they view my work. My lifelong need for the tactile connection between me and the cloth explains why I do most of my embroidery “in hand” — meaning I don’t use a hoop or frame if I don’t have to. Working in hoops or frames serves an important function for many techniques and I use them when necessary. But I love the portability of working in hand. Before I even started the casket classes, I had stacks of drawings with ideas, themes, characters and settings. I never had any intention of trying to reproduce a 17th-century casket. After years of designing my own quilts, rugs and embroideries, I knew this, too, would be my own design with lots of nods to the 17th century.
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"Engh is a feast." — Buddhist proverb WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 Telling a story in stitches takes a good deal of thought and planning. First, I had to decide on a focal point for each embroidery, which was usually a character. I would think about which moment in the story I wanted to show. Then, I planned the setting and all the little details to further the story along. Meanwhile, I am always thinking about how I will actually stitch it. I pick which parts will be in raised embroidery and which parts will be flat and what stitches I will use to achieve those goals. The best step of all is choosing threads from a rainbow of colors and textures. So many possibilities each step of the way.
Most of the stitching for the caskets was done in silk with wool and cotton showing up as well. I had never stitched with silk before I started this project. For me, each fiber stitches so differently. Silk seems to beg to be precise. Or at least as precise as I am able to be. I find I work in a much looser style when I stitch in cotton or wool. The Red House casket was designed to look like a home on the front. The sides feature different characters and places. The top shows a little girl named “Once” and her giant flying dog friend named “Time.” I used many of the same doll-making skills I had acquired over the years on the raised figures of the embroidered panels. I was honored to have this casket exhibited at Winterthur Museum for their 2018 needlework exhibit Embroidery: The Thread of History. The Enchanted Forest is a 3D forest creation. The tree spirits and forest animals converge in a mossy clearing. Making sure the trees were stable and secure was a fun problem to solve. I documented my process in a YouTube video. 101 WomenCreate.com
Fables to Go was me really stepping out of the traditional casket imagery. The abstract designs I call my “wander scapes” are environments I would love to travel through in real life. I chose to use detached buttonhole stitches throughout for two reasons. The colors are more intense, and I didn’t have to make all of the stitches through the fabric. (This was before I had my arthritic thumb rebuilt.) My animals were strongly influenced by Milo Winter’s 1919 version of Aesop’s Fables. 102 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
Creativity is one of �e most powerful traits we possess. When we deprive children of arts programs, we aren’t taking away busy w�k. We are taking away a chance to learn problem-solving ski�s. Life is no�ing but fu�-time problem-solving, so why not learn to do it creatively? 103 WomenCreate.com
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The last casket is about the cycle of a garden. One of the first 3D embroideries I created before I started the caskets was the Gardening Angel. I thought it fitting to put her on the last box. The rest of the box tells the origin story of the Dragon Prince and the Princely Dragon. Beginnings and endings coming full circle. In between covering the caskets, I stitched dolls and their clothing and expanded the Red House dollhouse. The buildings now cover one wall of my studio. I enjoy making stages and their settings. It is a motif that appears over and over in my work. The largest stage is the Enchanted Forest stage. Presently, it holds small scale embroidered buildings of the village. The little people are antique German folk figures. There is also a cross section of the Gold Castle ruled over by the Dragon Prince. It was fun to see how much detail I would be able to include at that scale. Quite a bit, it turns out! The entire image size is just 8 by 10 inches. WomenCreate.com
Process The last step of creating a casket is mounting the embroideries onto the box. If you would like to try this process yourself, start with a simple wood box from any craft store. Trace your embroidery design onto your fabric. My favorite stitching material is osnaburg. It is the very poor cousin of linen, but I like it. I like to use a fine point Uniball pen for tracing. Have fun stitching your creation using any thread that makes you happy. Remove hardware from the box and lightly sand inside and outside. I’m not going to use the hinges on the final box, so I fill the cutout area where the hinges were originally recessed. I use wooden coffee stirrers. WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 Cut the stirrers to size, stack them up, glue in place and when the glue is very dry, sand any rough edges. You might want to add feet to your box, so now is a good time to prime those. I thought about using either miniature wooden spools or small wood thimbles. Traditional 17th-century boxes were first covered in paper. This is an important procedure uncovered by Tricia Wilson Nguyen during her years of research. She describes it in great detail, complete with videos, in her embroidery course. The paper provides a protected surface to adhere your embroidery. Paste paper to the back of your embroidery. When super dry, you can cut it to fit the box. I choose to cover the lid of my box with embroidery and the lower sections with a coordinating fabric. Any raw edges can be covered with ribbon or a decorative trim. Traditionally, edges were finished with a beautiful woven silver trim!
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The Bo Line From an early age, I’ve felt I’ve had a charmed life. I have always seen possibilities around me. I have an amazing husband and family and I also have the daily opportunity to create. A needle with a little thread lets you create whole worlds. Enough truly is a feast. 108 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 Janet Janetbrandt.com INSTAGRAM: Janet.Brandt YOUTUBE: Janet Brandt https://Thistle-Threads.thinkific.com/
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THROUGH THE LENS Chris Kausch is an Indianapolis professional photographer who creates beautiful, artistic portraits for a variety of occasions. Whether you need an experienced wedding photographer in Indianapolis for your special day, corporate event photography for an upcoming event, senior pictures, engagement portraits or simply the best family portraits, Chris should be your choice of Indianapolis professional photographers. I am married to �e most beautiful girl in �e w�ld. Photography k�ps me we� fed and I w�k f� people who genuinely love my w�k. God is Love. Chris www.ChrisKauschPhotography.com 111 WomenCreate.com
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Transformative Dressing What happens to move a woman out of her sartorial comfort zone? To take the chance of looking foolish or having to explain her choices? It turns out, it doesn’t happen without a push, and it doesn’t happen all at once. This is the creative journey of BARBARA SAFRANEK of Spokane, Washington, to a new lease on life. When my father died, I signed up for salsa lessons. With his passing, I felt the urgency to live more fully. It was the finitude of life that finally opened me up to my real hunger — not just for beauty, but for a fuller, more generous engagement with the world. This was the beginning of my journey as a sewist of bold and provocative garments. Mary Oliver’s question in the poem The Summer Day has guided me: “What will you do with your one wild and precious life?” I found myself diving more deeply into my love of clothing design. It started when I developed a curiosity for the skirt I found in a thrift shop made from a bold geometric print with an unusual color combination. I came to discover it was one of the thousands of batik-like designs printed on machines invented in the 1800s by the Dutch — called Dutch wax prints — that have become culturally iconic in West Africa. I plunged into the world of African prints and a spark of inspiration grew into a transformative relationship with fashion and dressing. My philosophy of wearing art did not come to me fully formed. My first Dutch wax creation — a tailored, princess-seam coat in a large border-toborder botanical print — was carefully planned with attention to matching the vining design at prominent seams and balancing the pattern over the length and circularity of the garment. Still one of my favorites, it was even more striking than I had hoped for, but hung in my closet waiting for my self-confidence to catch up to my imagination. I finally stepped out, a frozen introvert inside a coat vibrating with color and pattern. Not only were conversations ignited at that concert I wore it to, but people remembered my coat months 114 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 later. I began to see myself as someone who had something to offer, and to engage with strangers — dancers, artists, educators, entrepreneurs — and my world expanded. The unapologetic, explosive joy of Dutch wax prints has pushed me to be braver and more generous and has made me a believer that dressing boldly is like presenting yourself as a gift and extending an invitation to others to engage with curiosity and delight.
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“AS LONG AS WE ARE ABLE TO BE EXTRAVAGANT WE WILL BE HUGELY AND DAMPLY EXTRAVAGANT.” — Mary Oliver, When the Roses Speak, I Pay Attention I wonder if my mother would have embraced her namesake, Francy King Wearable Art? Francy was a minister’s wife who filled a prescribed role, and I might be crossing her lines of modesty and decorum with my creations. But it was her creativity as a homemaker, especially her sewing skills, that put me on this path as a maker. I find myself, in art and in life, learning a complex dance between control and letting go, preserving and transformation. My confidence and skill as a designer have grown, propelling me deeper into the playfulness and experimentation of creating. Along the way, one of my dad’s old suits presented itself to me as fabric I could use to “ground” colorful African prints and make them more connected to North American culture. Conservative men’s suiting was the ultimate judicious fabric and this combination of lightweight wools with bold print cottons turned out to be a very good match — in weight and drape, warmth added, and in aesthetic restraint. 116 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
The process of “auditioning” fabrics to discover successful and synergistic combinations is my most demanding and creative task. It’s a term quilters use to choose the fabrics that will carry the design in a quilt. I have been a landscape architect for several decades and am inspired by the dynamic mix of plant forms and textures in beautiful gardens. Combining prints and textures in fabrics is a similar design challenge. I have a large collection of African prints to choose from, which is usually where I start in auditioning. My husband and I have prepared dozens of thrifted wool slacks — deconstructing, cleaning and pressing, and folding and stacking them in my dining room’s sideboard-turned-fabriccabinet — ready for their audition. Finding a solid that enhances the print is just one of the roles to be filled. The interplay of textures — layering of sheer fabrics, piping, velvet collars, zippers and buttons — swirl around, switch places and come together in a sort of alchemy that surprises and transcends forethought. Each garment I create is one of a kind. I buy only 6 yards of each print and every repurposed fabric is unique. I’ve collected patterns with pieces suitable for narrow widths of salvaged fabric, and for creating shape in the seaming, which is important when working with woven fabrics that do not stretch or conform to the body. I create some of my own patterns using a medium-weight clear vinyl that is durable and see-through for placing the print right where I want it on the garment. Placing and cutting the fabric is a slow process, requiring concentration and many decisions. The whole process of designing and constructing Francy King garments is truly slow fashion: Each garment takes 20 to 30 hours. 117 WomenCreate.com

S ome of my favorite garment details include two-part sleeves (flattering and useful for narrow strips of wool), welt pockets (so clean and sharp) and bagged linings. I line all of my coats with a heavy satin that allows the coat to glide on over clothes, adds warmth and provides extra flow and body to the cotton. Often, I will choose a striking piece of the print and appliqué it to the lining in a place only the wearer will see. It’s a special affirmation for the wearer and preparation for the experience of wearing the art. Pockets are a detail that I love to use liberally. Pockets add great utility to clothing and are why men don’t carry purses! I’ve mentioned welt pockets, but I also love to hide pockets in seams, create zippered pockets and sew interior pockets into linings. I’ve even put a pocket in a sleeve. I also reuse pockets from my repurposed items, such as patch pockets on jeans, buttoned hip pockets on men’s slacks and fancy welt pockets on women’s wool skirts. Pockets are power! 119 WomenCreate.com
M y longer coats are often fit-and-flare shapes with full, extravagant skirts. I make a 12-gore coat, with pieces that taper to just a few inches at the waist, that takes the full 6 yards of the print plus several pairs of wool pants to construct. These long coats are perfect for transitional times of cooler weather, and they are unforgettable statement pieces for special occasions like holiday parties or milestone celebrations. My dream is to make a wedding coatdress someday for a bold bride out of vibrant Dutch wax! 120 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
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S horter Francy King coats can be dressed up or down and their use is only limited by the imagination and personality of the wearer. One of my most popular styles is a unisex bomber jacket. I’ve made these in several sizes with botanical or geometric prints combined with lace and wool. Chunky zippers and front and inside pockets add casual comfort and utility. I don’t presuppose anymore which bomber jacket will appeal to whom and it puts a smile on my face to see men, especially, stepping out of safe choices into a Francy King.
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I think the juxtaposition of unexpected materials is one of the most distinctive qualities of my art. There is the surprise of unusual designs and colors, but also the contrast in character of new and old fabrics and the cultural shift of a print designed for women in West Africa made into a garment for the climate and mien of North America. On a more personal level, I love being able to explore and articulate the balance between my fashion flights of fancy and my mother’s grounded restraint. Contrast creates focus and helps people to see things in a new way or more clearly, as they really are. I hope my garments will do that: break down stereotypes, invite conversation, inspire risk-taking and open people up to living more generously. I have found creating and wearing joyful art to be a fertile place in my life for expanding community. Engaging friendships begin with small things — a look, a smile, a conversation, curiosity and caring interest in others — and one of my favorite ways to set things in motion is with a bold, provocative coat. Barbara www.FrancyKing.com INSTAGRAM: DesignerFashion.FrancyKing 125 WomenCreate.com
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CAROLINE HYDE-BROWN is a Norfolk, Englandbased textile artist who specialises in contemporary machine embroidery using foraged plant materials. Her work combines a modern aesthetic with the craftsmanship and quality of traditional technique. Within her processes, she strives to maintain a strong sense of global responsibility, simplicity and collaboration. Her new book, Forage & Stitch, teaches readers how to incorporate foraged materials into their textile creations. Discovering the Art & Science of Embroidery WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
called “the paddock” at the bottom of our garden. We had a derelict donkey shed that I used to sit in for hours, listening to birdsong and waiting for the appearance of the imaginary person that I was convinced was living in our overgrown garden. Nature is my safe space. I have always enjoyed the quiet time it offers — I can simply forget and be still with my thoughts. Walking through the countryside or an ancient woodland is akin to meditation — it lifts my body and mind. The simple act of putting one foot in front of the other takes me to another place both physically and mentally. WomenCreate.com PHOTO BY MARK DAVISON I have always been interested in textiles and nature. I will never forget how I felt weaving my first piece of fabric at school with my creative needlework teacher, Mrs. Poole. I used this piece of fabric to create a small stool and I just knew this was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. I am one of four children and had a childhood full of outdoor play and arts and crafts. I was inspired by my grandmother, who was a skilled tapestry embroiderer, and my own mother used to tell me stories of how her mother was a lacemaker, spinner and seamstress. I spent most of my childhood drawing and painting as well as being outside in a wild patch of woodland we
A fter my daughter was born in 2009, we relocated from the south of England to East Anglia, which has a climate that can be quite extreme: hot dry summers and temperate sunny autumnal days, coupled with cold, wet, windy winters. This provides me with plenty of inspiration, with dramatic sunsets and vast open skies. As a family, we always try to get into the woods or explore the countryside, and I wanted Evie to have a childhood that was immersed in nature and free. Exploring the ancient rewilded heathland and woods that intersperse the landscape in Norfolk never fails to inspire me. As I forage for plant material, leaves, seed pods and oak galls, I can reconnect to the land and gather moments in time that are recreated into unique textile stories. 130 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
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“As we rejoice in our new discoveries, we can release our creative ideas. This is the nature of the harvest: a release of the past, a gift in the present and a promise of hope for the future.” ————— Clea Danaan When I am outside immersed in nature, I can forage leaves, twigs, seed pods and flowers, happily spending hours searching for little treasures. I am constantly carrying out what I call “observation studies,” where I leave foraged items in little pots and baskets around my studio or windowsills at home. Living with them and watching how they naturally dry or respond to their environment enables me to turn to them when I feel the time is right. This slower, protracted implementation of creativity echoes the philosophy of permaculture: working with rather than against nature. Embroidered Circles of Life (2021) — foraged moss, vermicelli stitch, tulle and hand-dyed wool.
Education and career I originally trained in fashion design at Solent University in Southampton, the town where I was born. However, after a brief spell working as a textile print designer for Gable Clothing & Design Company, I decided to study textile design at Nottingham Trent University. It was here that I specialised in embroidery, a decision based on my first love of cross stitch sewing — a love that began as a child inspired by my grandmother’s stunning tapestry works. In 1995, during my graduation shows, I was awarded a Graduate Showcase award. This enabled me to exhibit at The Knitting & Stitching Show at the Alexandra Palace in London and in Dublin. It gave me the confidence to start my own business as a freelance textile designer and I have never looked back. I embroidered pieces for the British Craft Department at Liberty Regent Street, London, and designed home furnishings and pictures for the John Lewis Partnership UK. During this time, I was also travelling widely, exhibiting at art venues across the UK. It was a peripatetic lifestyle, often involving tight deadlines and pressure to complete the pieces for each show. I enjoyed working in this way, however, finding that the exhibitions gave me the opportunity to meet my customers directly. This boosted my morale and helped focus my ideas. In 2002, I was given the opportunity to work and travel across the east and west coast of Japan during a British Crafts promotion for Takashimaya. It was a great honour to be exhibiting with such a respected institution, and we were accompanied by the Princess Diana Althorp exhibition. I was incorporating elements of bamboo, Kozo fibre and washi paper into my work, combined with embroidered flowers that had been dried and gathered from my garden. My embroidery is a creative response to the transient nature of the places we work and live. I create art to connect with others and challenge the distinction between fine art and textiles. 134 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 Free machine embroidery with dried petals, daisies and leaves from my garden. Embroidered lichen with fern. Foraged from Wortham Ling, Suffolk, a wild heathland. 2019.
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Sketchbook Winter Studies, 2018-2019 The importance of research Immersive research helps to refine my ideas and explore the materiality of each piece. I visit locations to conduct research centred around place, flora and fauna. Moonshine Beetle was a personal two-year research project that I carried out a few years ago whilst studying the Brecks, the flint capital of the UK in prehistoric times. This species of beetle is endangered and highly vulnerable to extinction. The embroidered trees in my work represent the pine tree rows which are indigenous to this area and were originally planted in 1914 as hedges. Now fully grown, they are twisted and contorted by the wind, and are a distinctive feature of this area. I am currently working on a research study with two plant scientists looking at creating textiles from a Neolithic crop (legume) called grass pea. By utilising the waste or residue from the harvest of this crop, I am 136 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21 looking at ways of creating living textile surfaces such as hand-made paper, bowls and yarn. Raising the value of this crop would improve the lives of many rural communities living across India where subsistence farmers rely on this for vital food supply. I have also been fortunate with a successful grant application from the University of the Arts London and the British Council, aimed at supporting innovation within the field of global sustainability and climate change. Our research project WASTE NOT, based in the UK and Malaysia, focuses on the extraction of colour by utilising food waste and exploring natural plant-based mordants for the fashion and textile industry. This international collaboration is a pilot project and is still in the very early stages of educational outreach. In the not-too-distant future, though, we hope to be able to create a digital platform and social media presence to educate, empower and inform others of our findings and colour palette.
Moonshine Beetle — The Brecks, 2018 Grass Pea Crop, 2020 137 WomenCreate.com
Tools for accessing creativity:  DYEING SUPPLIES: A4 (8¼-by-11¾ inch) piece of medium-weight calico, for the background; rusty nails; tea or coffee; and a paintbrush, for staining  PRINTING SUPPLIES: Acetone and pot; printouts of tree lines; masking tape; medium-sized stipple brush; brayer or rolling pin; tea towel Forage & Stitch (ISBN 9781800920040) is available from www.SearchPressUSA.com. Writing my book Forage & Stitch Writing Forage & Stitch has provided me with yet another turning point in my career as a textile artist and researcher. I can honestly say that I have loved every minute of writing the book. It has helped me understand and connect with creatives, and has allowed me to add depth to the memories that I have committed to paper by writing each chapter. It has enabled me to express myself, my own feelings and ideas, and there is a real freedom in creating stories about foraging and embroidery. Simplicity and accessibility are key, as we all live busy and complicated lives. I hope to help enhance creativity and imagination through educational outreach. One of the projects I highlight in Forage & Stitch is my re-creation of the Brecks landscape. You can see how I make this in the following excerpt from my book. 138 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21  FREE-MACHINING ON SOLUBLE FABRIC SUPPLIES: Outline of Scots pine trees (this can be a simple drawing you create personally); pencil or pen; A4 (8¼-by-11¾ inch) piece of soluble fabric; 30.5 cm (12 inch) diameter hoop; dark- and light-coloured machine threads (a golden colour bobbin thread looks lovely with dark green, navy blue or black top thread); darning foot; tea towel or kitchen paper; old dish or tray  HAND-EMBROIDERY SUPPLIES: Embroidery threads in coordinating colours; embroidery or crewel needle; embroidery scissors; fine thread (this can be 2-ply machine or handembroidery thread)  FINISHED SIZE: 25 by 17.5 centimeters (9¾ by 7 inches)
Instructions Using the dyeing supplies, dye your fabric with rusty nails. Simply roll the fabric round the nails, stick it in a jam jar and fill with rainwater, then leave for a few weeks. Remove the fabric from the jar, then leave to dry completely. I also stained my fabric with tea, along the top and bottom, for extra colour interest. Using the printing supplies, print the rusted calico background with trees. If you wish, you could print the fabric multiple times. Leave to dry on a tea towel. Stitch a row of Scots pine trees. I’ve used black and gold threads — black for the top thread and gold for the bobbin. Once you are happy with the finish, dissolve the soluble fabric, then leave the embroidered trees to dry on a tea towel. 139 WomenCreate.com
Once everything is dry, frame up your fabric. Pin your row of Scots pine trees over the centre of the printed fabric. Using the fine thread, couch down the tree line to make sure it is absolutely secure. Rather than couching just around the edge, I like to work clusters of stitches in the top, bottom and middle sections. I wanted to create the impression of undergrowth in the foreground, so I decided to couch down clusters of different sized twigs. When complete, remove the fabric from the hoop and iron the fabric, if necessary. I decided to mount my piece on layered card, then stretched and glued the edges to the back with natural glue.  TIP: To enhance the dimensionality of the trees, I prefer to hand couch. You can do this by machine, but it can flatten the trees and make them look more “placed” and less natural. 140 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
Caroline www.TheArtOfEmbroidery.co.uk INSTAGRAM: Artistcaz WomenCreate.com
Beth Kephart is an author and bookmaker who has lived in the same 100-year-old house in the suburbs of Philadelphia for decades, writing books about rivers and hot-air balloons, Florence and Seville, memoirs and memoir makers. Recently, the author of My Life in Paper: Adventures in Ephemera (published this year by Temple University Press) decided to indulge in an ancient art and make paper with the grass that grew just beyond her front door. 142 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
My husband doesn’t believe in lawns. He’d be happier, he says, with pebbles. Not willing to exchange green and buds for dusty stones, I’ve done all the green things throughout our marriage. Planted the bushes and seeds, tended the bulbs, paid the kids with the lawn mowers, gone out just after dawn or just before dusk and watered the unquenched, slapping all the while at the bugs that swarm around my head. We live on a small plot of land that was once part of a golf course that belonged to a country sprawl of a hotel, one of the finest hotels there ever was, more than a century ago. Oh, if the elite could see us now. WomenCreate.com PHOTO BY IVAN LOPEZ, UNSPLASH.COM
But last year the kid with the lawnmower committed some fire-able offenses (like driving his machine repeatedly into our house and rattling the stucco; like running over and through the garden I’d been tending), and so I fired him. After that, there was no one willing to do the mowing for a plot of land as small and unremunerative as ours, and so all lawn maintenance came to a halt. Our grass grew knee high. I lived in shame. Finally, humiliation and adrenaline got the better of me. I snapped off the evening news, hiked through the green wilderness and cried big tears as I stood before our nearest, lawn-attentive neighbor. “Please can we borrow your mower,” I said. Begged, might be the word. Three weeks later, our borrowing days done, our own lawn mower arrived. And that’s how my husband became, at last, an actual one-yard lawn-maintenance guy. WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 Our economy mower is the kind you push, not the kind you ride. It’s the kind most people would stow in a garage, except we have no garage. It’s battery operated, no gas. All of this, my husband has taken in stride. Once a week during the height of grass-growing season, you can find him at an early hour, making pretty mowing patterns. Several weeks ago, my husband, after announcing a return to “Best in Neighborhood” status, also announced this: “I left all the cut grass in a pile by the trash can, in case you want to do something with it.” “Do something with it?” I repeated, tilting the end of my sentence with a question-mark sound. Then I remembered something I’d mentioned casually long ago: “Someday,” I’d declared, “I’ll make grass paper.”
Grass paper already exists, of course. This was not some grand, original notion of mine. Like the leaves of irises and yucca plants or the skins of onions or the stalks of cattails (minus the cigars), grass is a wonderful paper-making material. A miracle of cellulose, chlorophyll and water, grass is fibrous. When you cut it up and drop it (carefully) in a non-aluminum pot of washing-sodaenhanced water, you have before you the start of something — fibers breaking away from fibers so that they may come together again as paper. Accelerate the process by rinsing the macerated grass and pouring it into a blender. Then ball the strained blendered stuff up and place it on a sturdy surface. Find a pair of wide wooden sticks. Pound. Pretend you are playing the drums. What you’re doing is very noble. You are freeing fibers. I had some smelly fun with this. I did the work outside, so as not to contaminate my kitchen. I got my husband involved with the makeshift apparatus, the straining, the drumming. The mosquitoes arrived uninvited. Once my grass fibers were as free as they were ever going to be, I dumped them into a vat of clean water, threw in some shredded paper, tossed in some okra juice (I’d boiled sliced okra and saved the slime; the slime is a formation aid), and stirred the whole thing up with my hand. Then I grabbed my little mold and deckle. I dipped. I gently shook. I let the water drain. There, on the face of my mold was the start of a piece of paper — by which I mean beaten and soaked grass fibers attaching to beaten and soaked grass fibers. Of course, the thin wet sheet would have to be removed from the mold, layered between old cotton T-shirts and dried (along with other sheets) beneath a slab of marble. Of course, this drying thing would test my patience. But at the end of it all, a few days later, I had myself something I had not had before, made of grass that always knew, in its green heart, that it was anything but trash. WomenCreate.com PHOTO BY IVAN LOPEZ, UNSPLASH.COM
A Step-by-Step Guide to the Making of Grass Paper (Materials and tools indicated in bold print) 1 2 3 Collect the mowed grass. Four healthy-sized handfuls should do the trick. Gratitude toward the lawn mower helps to ensure future supplies. Shred some existing paper. I find that this gives the paper you are making more strength and character. Slice and boil okra. The resulting juice is an interesting sticky pink concoction that serves as a formation aid. Discard the okra and set the okra juice aside. WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21 I shred copies of books that I have written, especially copies of books that contain printer errors, as my memoir-in-essays, Wife | Daughter | Self, did. But anything no one will read again will do. If you want to fancy up your paper, gather nontoxic flowers (always check) and blanch them by adding them to boiling water for one minute or so, then dumping them into cold water. Asters, pansies, calendula, bee balm and marigolds are a good place to start. Set the blanched flowers aside.
4 5 6 Dissolve washing soda (sodium carbonate) in warm water (about 1 tablespoon per quart of water). Those with a separate basement/ cooking area will want to boil the substance in a nonaluminum pot. (My little house has no such space, and washing soda in the kitchen is not my idea of safe, so I adjust accordingly.) Place your grass fibers and your shredded paper in a big plastic tub and cover it with the washing soda water plus any additional water you need to cover the material. Let this tub sit for at least overnight, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon you will not be returning to the kitchen. Strain the paper solution, rinsing it clean. If you have used the washing soda, best to strain several times. Collect all the excess liquid in a bucket and neutralize it with a quart or two of distilled white vinegar before disposing of it. Now collect the pulp, squeeze excess liquid from it and beat it with an old stick. You are loosening the fibers. Also, and importantly, you can make paper without washing soda. Just let your fibers soak for many days, to ensure that they are sufficiently soft. WomenCreate.com PHOTO BY PUBLIC DOMAIN PICTURES, PEXELS.COM
7 8 9 Now, using an old blender, add water to the purified grass-shredded paper mix and, cup by cup, blend. Pour your blended pulp into your rinsed-clean plastic-tub vat. Work until all of your fibers have been blended. Add your okra juice to the vat when you are done. You now have slurry. At this point, you can add your blanched flowers (wet or dry) to the slurry. (You could alternatively add the flowers to the molded paper later.) With your mold and deckle on hand, stir up the slurry in the vat so that the loosened fibers are suspended. Dip your mold and deckle into the slurry at an angle, collecting the slurry, then hold your mold and deckle in the liquid horizontally, gently moving the apparatus until the slurry settles. WHAT WOMEN CREATE | ISSUE 21
10 11 12 Lift the mold and deckle from the water (maintaining its horizontal position) and let the excess water drain. Remove the deckle. Onto old cotton T-shirts or actual couch sheets (available for purchase online), flip the mold upside down, so that the newly forming paper sheet is touching the drying surface. Then press a sponge to the back of the mold to absorb as much excess liquid as you can. Carefully remove the mold. Place another cotton cloth or couch sheet on top of this new piece of paper and begin again, forming paper until you have a nice stack. When you are finished pulling all your sheets, leave them beneath a heavy slab (I use marble) and let them sit for a few hours. Then clip each couch sheet to a drying rack so that the paper will dry. Later, you’ll be able to peel each piece of paper from its couching sheet. I like to press the dry paper between boards to help make them flat. WomenCreate.com PHOTO BY PUBLIC DOMAIN PICTURES, PEXELS.COM
I use my paper to write on, as endpapers for my handmade books and as cover art. Here are some images of books I’ve made with all kinds of handmade paper (not just grass paper), in the studio where I make them. I’ve also used my handmade paper as a quilt of sorts, to decorate my studio. Beth www.BethKephartBooks.com INSTAGRAM: BethKephartNow 150 WHAT WOMEN CRE CREATE | ISSUE 21
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PET TALES Phoebe, Dash and Lori Mitche 153 WomenCreate.com
hey call me Houdini, but my given name is Phoebe. Dash is the shadowy figure you will see in the photos. She’s my friend and my lookout. I can get into any drawer or cabinet, but sometimes I don’t want to get out, so Dash will sit and look straight ahead at wherever I am hiding — and then our feeder is able to come find me. Dash seems a little like a boy’s name, but she was named this because she could move with lightning speed. She still does. Our feeder’s name is Lori Mitchell. She’s usually pretty relaxed and will sit for hours drawing and painting if we happen to fall asleep on her lap. She gets a little more excited when we start to chew up her watercolor paper. If she doesn’t want us to eat it, then why put it on the table in her studio? And I’m also not sure why she doesn’t want me to sit in the tray with all the colors. Just when I get comfortable, she lifts me out and cleans me off and we are banished to any other room but her studio. We have ways of getting back in. I can now jump and pull down the door handle to open the door. Dash tunnels under the folding blinds and I follow. Or we just put our paws under the door until she feels sorry for us and comes out for pets. Lori also teaches art classes on the computer. That’s our chance to make as much noise as possible. One of my favorites is to knock something like a pen or paintbrush on the wood floor and bat it around. I should have been a hockey player. She tries to challenge me with different water containers used for painting. So far, she hasn’t found one that I can’t tip over, and I get extra points if it’s near her computer or her artwork. She likes to play with me and makes her fingers look like mice running across her keyboard. I have the perfect surprise attack from under the back of the computer. When we are not playing games, I like to sit in a nice cool mixing bowl by the window.
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ori has been creating artwork since I came here. Before this home, I lived on the streets of Tijuana, Mexico. Dash came from the streets, too, so we are both pretty happy about our current living conditions. Dash used to pull loaves of bread off the counter at night because she thought that was all the food she was going to be able to get. We have figured out that each day we get good food, so she has stopped eating bread. We also have Dan, our entertainer. He rearranges the furniture. He will stack dining room chairs, one on top of the other, just to give us something to play on. Sometimes he will move the couch halfway into another room just so we can pretend that we are in a whole new exciting playroom. And don’t tell the feeder, but he gives us bits of cheese if we are very patient and just stare into his eyes as he is eating. Lori brings home sketchbooks full of dog sketches. I know she would much rather draw cats, but we aren’t at the coffee shops around town where she draws every week. I help her organize all of her sketchbooks and the knickknacks on her shelves. She has too much on her shelves, so I help knock a few things off so it looks less cluttered. I am very helpful like that. I must go now. I just spotted a small box that needs exploring. Lori www.LoriMitchellArt.com; www.DifferentJustLikeMe.com PINTEREST: LorisStory INSTAGRAM: LoriMitchellArt; DifferentJustLikeMe ETSY: LoriMitchellArt See more photos of Dash and me on INSTAGRAM: Loris_Story 157 WomenCreate.com
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