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ISBN: 2010-1473

Year: 2024

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He el, Ch an el JANUARY 2024 O N T H E COV E R Cindy Crawford, photographed by Yu Tsai, styled by Deborah Afshani. Jacket, MCM. Singlet, Everlane. Vintage jeans, Levi’s. Earrings; signet ring, Anita Ko ON THE FACE Parure Gold 24K Primer, Guerlain. Les beiges Water Fresh Tint, Chanel. Emotionproof Concealer, Tom Ford Beauty. Translucent Loose Powder, Clé de Peau Beauté. ON THE EYES Brow Definer, Anastasia Beverly Hills. Stylo Contour Des Yeux eyeliner pencil, Gucci Beauty. Ultimate Lift Mascara, Burberry Beauty. ON THE CHEEKS Forever Natural Bronze Powder Bronzer, Dior. Face Colour Blush in M Ashy Rose 362, Shu Uemura. ON THE LIPS Rouge Coco Baume in 914 Natural Charm. ON THE HAIR Full Blown Volume Conditioner Weightless Amplifier, Fekkai. Style Lab Flex Hairspray Styling & Finishing Spray, Living Proof. Wave Spray, OUAI. Beach Club Texture Spray, IGK MAKEUP: Melanie Ingelessis/ Forward Artists HAIR: Rob Talty/Forward Artists MANICURE: Shigeko Taylor/ Star Touch Agency PRODUCER: Trever Swearingen PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: Jack Morris DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: Luis Jaime PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS: Embry Lopez, Calvin Mendez ASSISTANT STYLIST: Margrit Jacobsen STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: Madison Walker JEWELS & WATCHES Call Time 30 Haute Bijoux 36 Razzle Dazzle 38 Art of Time 39 Gem of an Idea 40 STYLE FASHION Second Skin 16 Deep Dive 20 Class in Session 21 True Blue 22 Taste the Rainbow 23 On the Streets 24 Fabulous at Every Age 26 Great Strides 28 SU PE R TROOPE R Photographed by Yu Tsai. Styled by Deborah Afshani 74 ALL DRESSED UP Photographed by Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello. Styled by Kai Magrander 84 FRILL SEEKER Photographed by Stefan Khoo. Styled by Jeffrey Yan 100

JANUARY 2024 A FASHIONABLE LIFE The Story of Us 43 Pattern Establishment 50 Snack Attack 51 Timeless with a Twist 52 Inspiration 54 Natural Habitat 55 Talking Points 60 Wide Blue Yonder 62 Ba g, Ca rtie r BAZAAR MAN BEAUTY REGULARS Dopamine Rush 66 Mirror, Mirror 70 Know Your A-B-Cs 72 Editor’s Note 12 Get the Look 14 Horoscope 42 Why Don’t You? 106
Visit .com.sg THIS MONTH Chiara Ferragni WARDROBE REFRESH TIMELESS STAPLES YOU’LL LOVE IN 2024 AND BEYOND Florence Pugh Oversized jacket in flannel, $4,770, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Zoë Kravitz Button-up shirt, $460, Acne Studios PANTONE’S PEACH FUZZ Danielle highrise straight-leg jeans, about $797, Khaite at Net-APorter CELEB-APPROVED WAYS TO WEAR THE UPLIFTING HUE Kendall Jenner Lee Ji-eun (IU) Mesh and leather pumps, $1,820, Bottega Veneta Le t-shirt Caraco, about $380, Jacquemus Denim maxi skirt, $2,200, Prada PUT YOUR SKIN FIRST THE BEST BEAUTY PRODUCTS TO ADD TO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE Vinergetic C+ Instant Detox Mask, $48 for 75ml, Caudalie at Sephora Toy Panta slipper in lambskin, $2,500, LOEWE Luna Sleeping Night Oil, $171 for 35ml, Sunday Riley at Sephora The Eye Concentrate Cream, $430 for 15ml, La Mer at Sephora Daily Microfoliant Exfoliator, $112 for 74g, Dermalogica HARPERSBAZAARSG Advanced Night Repair Serum Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex, $252 for 75ml, Estēe Lauder Advanced Génifique Serum, $349 for 115ml, Lancôme Horsebit 1955 Shoulder Bag, $5,080, Gucci HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE
JANUARY 2024 KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief Creative Director Digital Director WINDY AULIA ANNABELLE FERNANDEZ Deputy Editor Digital Content Manager RENÉE BATCHELOR NAVIN PILLAY Associate Fashion Director Senior Digital Writer JEFFREY YAN Earrings, Tiffany & Co. Style Editor GRACIA PHANG SHERMIN NG Social Media Manager JOE TAN Senior Beauty Editor Content Producer ARISSA HA BRANDON CHIA Contributing Sub-editor Senior Art Director JERENA NG DAPHNE TSO Associate Art Director ALICE CHUA STUDIO OPERATIONS Chief Photographer/Videographer VERONICA TAY Photographer/Videographer ATHIRAH ANNISSA, LAWRENCE TEO, CLEMENT GOH Manager, Ad Ops LIN FENG ADMINISTRATION & EDITORIAL SUPPORT Senior Manager JULIANA CHONG Assistant Managers WENDY WONG, CYNTHIA LEE Contributing Photographers Brandl-Utzt, Choi Moonhyuk, Stefan Khoo, Kensington Leverne, Monika Lis, Mauro Mongiello, Claire Rothstein, Sophia Sanchez, Tan Shuo, John Tods, Yu Tsai Contributors Deborah Afshani, Charlotte Brook, Chan Siew Boon, Julika Eibelshauser, Anouchka Grose, Erik Madigan Heck, Joelle Iong, Gal Klein, India Knight, Ray Kohar, Kai Margrander, Katharine Merlin, Juliet Nicolson, Samila Wenin, Larissa Wong, Yoon Hyeyeon HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL President of Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT SVP/Global Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN Global Editorial Director, Luxury Brands ELÉONORE MARCHAND International Editions Arabia, Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Latin America, Malaysia, Netherlands, Russia, Saudi, Serbia, Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, UK, US, Vietnam
JANUARY 2024 Chief Executive Officer TEO LAY LIM Editor-in-Chief, Lifestyle & Entertainment Media Group IGNATIUS LOW Head, Lifestyle Media & Content Marketing PHIN WONG Editorial Director, Lifestyle Media JOANNA LEE-MILLER Publishing Director, Lifestyle Media EILEEN CHIA Chief Financial Officer ANDY HUI Chief Technology Officer KAYTHAYA MAW Chief Customer Officer EUNICE SHEN Head, Corporate Marketing & Communications FEN PEH Head, Human Resources MAUREEN WEE MARKETING & MEDIA SOLUTIONS Head, Sales CHRISTOPHER CHAN EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES SPH Media Limited 1000 Toa Payoh North, News Centre, Singapore 318994. Tel: 6319 6319 Fax: 6319 8113 Email: bazaar@sph.com.sg Hearst International Bureau 959 8th Avenue, NYC 10019. Tel: +1 212 649 2275 Fax: +1 212 265 0904 SPH Media Limited Customer Service For subscription enquiries, call 6388 3838. Lines are open Monday to Friday (9am – 6pm). For sales enquiries, contact Maggie at magadpromo@sph.com.sg. Harper’s BAZAAR Singapore is published by Lifestyle Media, a division of SPH Media Limited, under licence from Hearst Communications Inc., publisher of Harper’s BAZAAR in the United States of America. Harper’s BAZAAR is a trademark of Hearst Communications Inc. Harper’s BAZAAR is printed by Times Printers and distributed by SPH Media Limited. Tel: 6319 6319. Harper’s BAZAAR shall not, without written consent of the publishers, be given, lent, resold, hired out or otherwise disposed of by way of trade, and it shall not be lent, hired out or otherwise disposed of in a mutilated condition or in any unauthorised cover by way of trade; or affixed to as part of any publication or advertising, literary or pictorial matter whatsoever. We welcome editorial submissions from contributors, but no responsibility is accepted for lost material. All prices are approximate and are quoted in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated. COPYRIGHT © 2024 Hearst/SPH Media Limited MCI (P) 025/12/2023 KDN NO: PPS1492/3/2005 ISSN 2010-1473
EDITOR’S NOTE s I’m writing this letter in my study on Christmas eve, I eye the pile of presents waiting to be wrapped. It’s the yearly pandemonium, more so this year as it’s the first time my parents have returned home after a four-year absence due to Covid 19. Thus, this Christmas is all the more poignant. There are times in life when you realise that you are truly blessed. And this is one of them. Having a simple dinner together, with home-cooked favourites like Nonya chap chye, chicken rendang and finishing up with bubur hitam, I think I’m the luckiest guy in the world. Blame me for being an ol’ romantic, but nostalgia has always been my calling card. Being in an industry where newness is celebrated and ‘what’s next’ the constant refrain, I am all for respecting the past and acknowledging where we came from. Which brings me to our cover star Cindy Crawford. This the fourth time she has graced our cover and she remains as relevant and as sensual as ever. She was my first supermodel I shot for BAZAAR and that was almost 20 years ago. I remember that shoot vividly, sweating buckets styling one of the most beautiful and recognised supermodels in the world on the staircase of the Carcosa Seri Negara in KL. This was the time of polaroids and the first shot was a ‘make it or break it’ moment. As photographer Simon Upton peeled the first polaroid open and waited as the picture slowly surfaced, I looked away. Cindy took one look, said “Fabulous!” and everyone laughed, out of relief. Putting together the very best designer pieces was only half the task. What could I bring to the shoot that said this was done in Asia? I was inspired—it would have to be our own national flower. But the Vanda Miss Joaquim is rather insignificant in pictures unless it’s a huge bunch. So I got a large white phalaenopsis, which I had air-flown from Holland, pulled Cindy’s famous locks into a tight bun and plopped a single exquisite bloom behind her ear. That bloom was handy, showing throughout the shoot on her neck, wrist and even delicately caressing her bosom. Cindy loved it. The pictures even made a global campaign for Omega. That’s the power of Cindy. And here we are again, with the modelling icon. Cindy talks candidly about her decades-long career, her recent Apple TV+ documentary The Super Models alongside her fellow supers: Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista. She also talks about her close relationship with her model daughter, Kaia Gerber, and her long-standing relationship with global brands. Read Renée Batchelor’s interview on page 78. I also got a chance to art direct our BAZAAR Man cover stars, Thai artistes Mew Suppasit Jongcheveevat and Tul Pakorn Thanasrivanitchai in Bangkok. What struck me most was their openness, their candour in front of the camera and their obvious chemistry that is electrifying. I hope this first official shoot of the two of them brings about more discussions about breaking barriers and opening more doors for a more inclusive world. We can but hope, but this is certainly a great start to 2024. Happy New Year, dear readers—enjoy an issue that has a little of the past, a lot of the present and the promise of a brighter future.  KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief KENNIEBOY HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE 12 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.SG PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN TODS. GROOMING: PAKORN SEESEM. HAIR: ACHAWIN KRITTIYAVANICH. TUL AND MEW’S OUTFITS AND SHOES: TOD’S. KENNETH’S OUTFIT: HIS OWN. GOLD, WHITE GOLD, TITANIUM, LACQUER, DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CARTE BLANCHE, MORE IS MORE BROOCH, BOUCHERON PROMISE OF TOMORROW
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GET THE LOOK Necklace, $578, Stone and Strand at Net-a-Porter Jacket, $1,150, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello at Net-a-Porter Bracelet, $610, Hermès Dress, about $625, Jacquemus Top, $3,650, Givenchy CINDY INC. Chance EDP, $280 for 100ml, Chanel Watch, Omega Boot, Louis Vuitton Iconic fashion campaigns and unforgettable runways? Check. TV shows and and movies? Check. A business mogul with a beautiful family? Check. Cindy Crawford is indeed, the GOAT. There’s no better way to start the year than with this iconic supermodel. Timeless and always relevant, she’s in her element in the great outdoors. Emulate her signature style with luscious hair, natural makeup, a leather jacket, white singlet and boyfriend jeans —it’s Cindy style that works for every woman, in every shape and at every age. Bag, MCM 14 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Sunglasses, Louis Vuitton Jeans, $1,150, The Row at Net-a-Porter Ring, $560, Gucci BY WINDY AULIA. PHOTOGRAPHY: YU TSAI Belt, $550, MCM
BE PAR T OF THE B A Z A AR LI F EST Y L E Harper’s BAZAAR covers the latest in fashion, beauty, design, travel, culture, society and the arts. Experience the magazine brought to life via the hottest fashion shows, the chicest cocktail parties and exclusive events. Read all about our events at HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.SG
EDITED BY GRACIA PHANG SECOND SKIN Bold hardware and tough leather toppers bring edge and cool to your everyday wardrobe. Photographed by Choi Moonhyuk. Styled by Yoon Hyeyeon Lay It Out Pull off a glamorous yet tough sensibility with eye-catching gold add-ons contrasted against black leather. Jacket, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Earring; round-linked necklace, Panache Chasunyoung. Choker, 1064Studio. Right hand: Bangle, Portrait Report. Gold and silver chain bracelets, Pepe Zoo. Crystal-embellished bracelet, Panache Chasunyoung. Ring (on ring finger), Panache Chasunyoung. Ring (on index finger), CELINE. Left hand: Ring, Portrait Report 16 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Size Up Contrast feminine silhouettes with oversized shapes that ooze sex appeal. Coat, Fendi. Trousers, Alexander Wang. Earrings; pendant necklace, Chloé. Necklace, Crystal Haze by Corso Como. On right arm: Cuff, Chloé. Bangle, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. On left wrist: Bracelet, Panache Chasunyoung. Bangle, CELINE 17 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Brash and Bold Go bare beneath an oversized leather jacket and amp up the vamp with a textured mini skirt. Add a touch of playfulness with statement earrings. Jacket (worn under), Balenciaga. Jacket; skirt, Versace. Earrings, Moschino. Rings, & Other Stories 18 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Raw Power Play up a wicked attitude with acid-washed leather and chunky silver jewellery. Jacket, Juun.J. Jeans, Balenciaga. Earrings with chain details, Doigte. Ear cuff with logo; Dolce&Gabbana. Ear cuff, Portrait Reports. Necklace, Chrome Hearts. Right wrist: Bracelet, Chrome Hearts. On left hand: Ring (index finger), Dolce&Gabbana. Ring, Chrome Hearts Model: Park Seo-hee Makeup: Jang So-mi Hair: Lee Seul-ah Makeup assistant: Lee Seo-hyun 19 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
STYLE Picks Walk on clouds while making a statement as you strut down the streets in these cushy sneakers 2 4 1 3 16 6 DEEP DIVE 5 Make waves as neoprene takes on double duty with iridescent details and sea-life elements 7 15 10 12 8 13 9 11 1. Sneaker, about $1,472, Balmain 2. Wetsuit, $590, Cynthia Rowley at Farfetch 3. Le Regard Hermès in 03 Ombres Fauves, $183, Hermès Beauty 4. Skirt, $845, Diesel 5. Brooch, Mikimoto 6. Dress, $2,718, Rosie Assoulin at Farfetch 7. Sunglasses, Balenciaga 8. Trousers, about $1,334, Akris 9. Charm, $750, LOEWE 10. Watch, Cartier 11. Bag, $7,290, Bottega Veneta 12. Dress, $3,750, Gucci 13. Earrings, about $329, Simone Rocha 14. Bracelet, $1,350, Hermès 15. Louis Vuitton cruise 2024 16. Top, about $656, Courrèges 20 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 BY GRACIA PHANG 14
4 1 2 3 5 CLASS IN SESSION 6 Pleated minis and tailored pieces in classic pinstripes will get you through the lessons of style 7 10 11 12 8 9 16 13 Picks 15 BY GRACIA PHANG 14 Complete the preppy vibe with a leather backpack that’s stylish and practical at the same time 1. Thom Browne cruise 2024 2. Ring, $680, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 3. Blazer, about $2,413, Zimmermann at Net-a-Porter 4. Skirt, $1,990, Miu Miu 5. Brooch, $1,100, Valentino Garavani 6. Sneaker, $1,890, Louis Vuitton 7. Dress, Louis Vuitton 8. Socks, $180, Versace 9. Bag, MCM 10. Necklace, Tory Burch 11. Trousers, $1,154, Jean Paul Gaultier at Farfetch 12. Hat, about $454, Ruslan Baginskiy 13. Diorshow 5 Couleurs Eye Palette in 279 Denim, $116, Dior 14. Shirt, Loro Piana 15. Sunglasses, $570, Gucci 16. Watch, Audemars Piguet 21 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
STYLE 3 4 1 2 5 6 17 TRUE BLUE 7 Get ready as denims get decked out in embellishments and dramatic silhouettes 16 10 8 11 12 13 Picks Spice up the blues with fancy fringed earrings that can take you from day to night 14 9 1. Card holder, $500, Givenchy 2. Sunglasses, $855, Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama 3. Jacket, $2,400, AREA 4. Blumarine cruise 2024 5. Watch, Chanel 6. Scarf, $370, Dior 7. Jeans, $7,645, Dolce&Gabbana 8. Necklace, $3,810, Bottega Veneta 9. Earrings, $1,150, CELINE 10. Skirt, about $1,175, Alaïa 11. Belt, $820, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 12. Top, $1,780, Versace 13. Ear cuff, $520, Alexander McQueen 14. Pump, $2,410, Roger Vivier 15. L’Eau Bleue EDP, $215 for 100ml, Miu Miu 16. Top, $9,700, Valentino 17. Bag, $5,270, Gucci 22 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 BY GRACIA PHANG 15
WAIT LIST TASTE THE RAINBOW A true classic gets remastered in the hands of a hitmaker BY JEFFREY YAN As Pharrell Williams takes the helm of Louis Vuitton menswear, he reworks one of the brand’s most enduring icons—the Speedy bag. Designed almost a century ago as the everyday version of the travel-sized Keepall, it was an instant hit and remained so for decades. During the Marc Jacobs era, the Speedy soared to new heights of pop cultural ubiquity, thanks to electrifying collaborations with the likes of Takashi Murakami and Stephen Sprouse, who covered the bags with cherry blossoms and graffiti, respectively. Despite all these different takes, the bag has always come in the brand’s signature coated canvas. Until Pharrell. Seeing as how it’s one of the most knocked-off bags in the world, he decided to flip the script. Inspired by Canal Street bootlegs, his Speedy bags come in pop-bright primary colours with the Monogram printed larger than usual. Only, his were far elevated—crafted from the supplest calfskin, lined in lambskin, and silkscreen-printed to achieve that blurry Monogram-on-canvas effect.  The Speedy 25 Bandoulière Monogram leather bags are priced at $13,200 each; the Speedy 40 Bandoulière Monogram leather bag is priced at $15,900; and all are available at Louis Vuitton, #B2-36, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (tel: 6788 3888). 23 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
STYLE 3.1 Phillip Lim cruise 2024 Gucci cruise 2024 SHOULDER TO SHOULDER While cut-outs are a familiar trend, it is where they are placed that up their sex appeal. This season, the fashion circuit has trained its focus on an unassuming yet sensual body part—the shoulders. Fashion-forward designers like Gucci and 3.1 Phillip Lim have slashed theirs onto detachable components in the garment, giving the wearer a two-in-one option. Others have drawn up feminine numbers with billowy and edgy frocks. Not keen on slashed sleeves? Try a tailored vest with opera gloves in the same hue—for a vibe that’s covered, yet flirty. INSIDE OUT Choker, $800, Swarovski Choker, $880, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Choker, $1,100, Dior From left: A bold, graphic choker adds interest to oversized hoops. Don’t be afraid to mix golds, silvers and other precious stones Choker, Tiffany & Co. ON A TIGHT ROPE Time and again, the choker has proven itself to be a perfect standalone statement piece. Sitting just above the collar, the choker has seen us through possibly every decade—from Marie Antoinette’s delicate pearls to ’80s rocker spikes and rivets and ’90s velvety ribbons—just about every style is still relevant sartorially today. Modernise your pearl chokers by wearing them with a crisp shirt dress, or contrast your tailored look with rebellious layered hardware. Finally, try a minimalist skinny choker worn with bold red lips for the ultimate statement. The fashion set are flaunting sheer apparel and lingerie dressing these days. But at Monse, the label has gone a step further by crafting outfits with skeletal prints and embellishing them with 3D knitted florals— reminiscent of Frida Kahlo’s self portraits and Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 Skeleton dress. Off-White explored the idea of X-rayed imagery with sporty separates that are covered with monochromatic prints of scanned items—a possible reminder, perhaps, that everything in our lives comes under close scrutiny. 24 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Off-White cruise 2024 Monse cruise 2024
EYED T H Clockwise from top: A bejewelled pair of sunglasses adds instant pizzazz. Whimsy and practical, a fancy headpiece keeps you warm and well-adorned. A pair of fancy half-frames are bound to get you noticed BR IG Proof that a minimalistic one-piece can be the perfect canvas for an effortlessly cool outfit Catsuit, $1,750, Mugler Jumpsuit, about $658, Pucci at Net-a-Porter If eyes are the window to the soul, then we’d like to have them well dressed up no matter the occasion. Whether it’s to add sparkle for a festive mood or brighten up the new year, accessories for our peepers are a must-have, and they are not just for blocking out UV rays. Opt for glitzy sunnies to brighten up a neutral fit, or amp up the drama with diamante half-frames. Beyond the frames, add a touch of whimsy to your street chic look with a pearl-embellished balaclava. Now, that is what we call eye candy. DSquared2 cruise 2024 Jil Sander cruise 2024 ONESIES? GO FIGURE! Here’s what wearing a catsuit will immediately say of its wearer—glamorous, bold and ultra-confident. Often in latex or leather and worn by tough female characters in movies: think Trinity in The Matrix, Alice in Resident Evil and of course, nearly every Catwoman in comic-verse history oozing with strength and sexiness. Saint Laurent gave the fashion world a strong case for the silhouette in his spring/summer 2022 collection, while Kim Kardashian famously stepped out in a Balenciaga yellow caution-tape suit back then as well. And who could forget Rihanna in a sparkly Gucci catsuit? Still going strong, the one-piece wonder is easier styled than imagined—slip on thigh-high boots for effortless ease, or throw on a tailored coat and structured extras for a full heroine vibe. Coperni cruise 2024 BY GRACIA PHANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT COMIC CON Catsuit, about $7,930, Alaïa From left: Straight out of a movie set, dramatic silhouettes and out-there hairstyles make for a head-turning fit. Have fun with textures and dimensions in an earth-toned look Comics, manga, anime—these illustrated story formats on different mediums have become so ubiquitous we cannot unsee or ignore them. Whatever the age, everyone loves this fantastical form of visual narrative. And better yet, fashion designers are falling over themselves covering classic silhouettes with comic strip prints. Try options like Dsquared2’s Betty Boop jeans or Coperni’s graphic shirt for a pop of fun to your outfit. Or don a full look for maximum impact, then throw on sleek add-ons for that futuristic vibe. 25 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
STYLE Sneaker, $1,270, Bottega Veneta FABULOUS Top, $790, Dion Lee at Club21 AT EVERY Stella McCartney cruise 2024 Shape up your new year with bustiers, corsets and form-fitting styles Bag, $2,490, Burberry Gloves, $1,200, Givenchy Skirt, about $1,084, Rabanne Bustier top, about $335, Oséree at Net-a-Porter Corset, about $215, Maison Close T-shirt, $665, Alexander McQueen Bottle, $345, Prada Bag, Tod’s Sunglasses, $453, Gentle Monster Perfect that balance between sports and fashion with a touch of sparkle Earrings, $695 for a set of three, Miu Miu Ring, $2,200, LOEWE Dress, $239, Zara Do it like the noughties—keep it minimal and raw, complete with an air of nonchalance Dress, $5,545, Dolce&Gabbana Gucci cruise 2024 Beret, Weekend Max Mara Necklace, $499, Pandora Ring, $35, & Other Stories Vest, Louis Vuitton Shorts, about $294, The Frankie Shop Watch, Chanel Choker, $3,000, Swarovski Loafer, $1,800, Prada Sunglasses, $630, Balenciaga Trousers, $3,330, Jil Sander 26 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Earrings, $2,480, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Boot, $3,130, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Bag, $2,380, Versace Bracelet, $3,500, LOEWE Necklace, Hermès Dress, $1,989, A.W.A.K.E. Mode at Farfetch Belt, $169, & Other Stories Coat, Max Mara Dress, $2,245, Dolce&Gabbana Balmain cruise 2024 Sunglasses, $740, CELINE Ring, Chaumet Necklace, $9,500, Burberry Bag, $4,410, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Fuss-free and fresh—an all-white look is a clean canvas—highlighted with a touch of gold Amp up the drama with high-shine leather and peplum details for a fun night out Earrings, $2,790, Bottega Veneta Top, $3,790, The Row Bangle, Cartier Watch, Audemars Piguet Corset, about $843, Natasha Zinko Trousers, Loro Piana Top, Tory Burch Scarf, $370, Dior Proenza Schouler cruise 2024 BY GRACIA PHANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF STELLA MCCARTNEY; GUCCI; BALMAIN; PROENZA SCHOULER Jacket, $8,645, Alexander McQueen Boot, $2,580, Valentino Garavani Shorts, $2,121, NK at Farfetch Gloves, about $1,434, Alaïa Hat, about $1,554, Maison Michel 27 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Dress, $910, Dion Lee at Farfetch Headband, $1,780, Roger Vivier
STYLE GREAT STRIDES The psychoanalyst Anouchka Grose explores how women have taken control of the sartorial narrative over the centuries, embracing fashion as a subtle yet powerful form of self-expression y first psychotherapist tried to cure me of my interest in fashion. I was in my early twenties and had gone to see him about my morbid fear of the dark. Every week, en route to his Fulham office, I would stop by a dress agency (appropriately named Hang Ups) and pick up second-hand John Galliano and Romeo Gigli pieces, mostly for around £40. On seeing my ever-changing outfits, and my ever-present shopping bag, he took it upon himself to try to persuade me that my interest in clothes was unhealthy. It was expensive (for an art student) and betrayed a pathological investment in my own image. He suggested that I try wearing the same clothes for a week to see how I felt and to uncover the repressed, unconscious wishes behind my desire to dress up. I hated him so much I dropped my original symptom. I was cured! Seven years and two more therapists later, I began to train as a psychoanalyst myself. I was struck, during my placement in an NHS psychotherapy clinic, by the fact that most psychiatrists’ reports began with a description of the patient’s clothes. Were they scruffy? Clean? Conventional? Eccentric? What clues did they give to the person’s inner world? I was also amused and irritated by a passage in the psychoanalyst Nina Coltart’s much-read book How to Survive as a Psychotherapist that advised female therapists to look as boring as possible. Interesting clothes would be too revealing of one’s own narcissism, apparently. Did that really mean I was doomed to dress in tasteful, draped neutrals, perhaps with a chunky statement necklace—the only bit of stylistic pleasure a ‘proper’ therapist was allowed? Thankfully, I had chosen to train in the Lacanian tradition—a French structuralist re-reading of Sigmund Freud—whose main selling point, for me, was a rejection of normativity. We weren’t trying to persuade our patients to conform to social strictures; nor did we have to ourselves. Instead of submitting myself to shrink cosplay, I could keep wearing the clothes I actually liked. Still, I was left with plenty of questions about the meaning of clothes: why do we wear what we wear? What is it about fashion that incites both so much devotion and such disapproval? Certainly, the message I had received from my original therapist—had he, too, read Nina Coltart?—was that a sane, serious person wouldn’t dress flamboyantly. Yet all around me I saw evidence to suggest that people, especially women, used clothes to interpret culture, send clever messages and generally indicate intelligence in myriad impressive ways. Did people think Tilda Swinton was a less-serious actor, thanks to her experimental, gender-fluid wardrobe? Were Zadie Smith’s exuberant, culturally eloquent outfits antithetical to her literary gravitas? And who could argue that Kim Kardashian’s ‘I Love Nerds’ t-shirt was anything other than a tricksy, sophisticated intervention in the cultural discourse on beauty, fame, popularity and intellect? Clothes can clearly be worn cleverly. Why would anyone want to give that up? 28 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
PHOTOGRAPHY: CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN This was one of the big questions for me in writing my book, Fashion: a Manifesto. While I continued to insist on my right to dress as I pleased, I could also see that, over the centuries, fashion has been a menace to women, workers and the environment. To begin to ask questions about the future of fashion, I had to look at its history. I was curious about the moment towards the end of the 18th century when gender differences became more accentuated. Thanks to the combined effects of the French and Industrial Revolutions, men felt the need to signal how serious, hardworking and non-hierarchical they were. No longer was it acceptable to swagger around in a powdered wig with rouge, colourful silks and high heels; indeed, the wearing of lace could lead to death by guillotine. Sombre, functional suits were seen as a better way of demonstrating an individual’s determination to be a hardworking, useful member of society. Still, the means to produce shimmering brocades, diaphanous muslins and infinite ribbons now existed (namely through the slave trade and the mass exploitation of the poor), so someone needed to keep donning ruffles. Men in suits could run the workshops and factories that produced uncomfortable, ornate clothes, which women wore in order to keep the men in suits busy and wealthy. One of the many downsides of this system was that fashion could now be used to keep women in a sartorial double-bind. They had to renounce any visual semblance of equality with men at the same time as being directed towards greater competition with one another. They were required simultaneously to put their simpering frivolity and cut-throat ambition on display, to be both ‘less than’ and ‘more than’ in one fell swoop. Perhaps the only upside of this unfortunate trap was that it provided the ideal hothouse conditions for honing stylistic cunning. If clothes were one of the few means by which women were encouraged to express themselves, it seems many of them took this and ran. Georgiana, the Duchess of Devonshire, became something just short of a living artwork, famous for her extraordinary clothing, one day building elaborate miniature sculptures into her hair, the next donning a simple muslin column dress. Her power of influence in fashion soon transformed into actual political influence as she used her elevated social position to recruit young men to the progressive Whig Party. Conversely, the Bluestocking group named themselves after the everyday woollen socks that stood in contrast to the more elegant black-silk stockings expected of a lady, conveying their preference for literature over dressing-up. Meanwhile, over in France, at the infamous bals de victimes, survivors of la Terreur wore simple underclothes accessorised with a red ribbon around the neck to signify the cut of the guillotine. In the Edwardian and early-modern eras, as the subjugation of women became less and less tenable, a proliferation of clothing-reform groups with names like ‘the Rational Dress Society’ campaigned for greater sartorial parity. Women’s clothes that were too hot, cold or complicated, or that applied too much pressure to the body, were discouraged in favour of garments designed for comfort and ease of movement. Visual flashiness was dismissed as one of fashion’s more pernicious mechanisms, marking out wearers as petrified eye candy as opposed to active, sentient agents. Ergo, dressing like a male industrialist was thought to be the rational way forward. By 1930, the discourse around fashion was such that the psychoanalyst JC Flügel would propose nudism as the logical next step for humankind. For him, clothing was like a neurotic symptom in that it tried, and failed, to reconcile conflicting tendencies—namely, the incompatible impulses towards modesty and exhibitionism. This manifested itself not just through the artificial division of gender performance between men and women, but also through the divided psyches of individuals who would feel compelled to show off and deflect at the same time. Following the story of Adam and Eve, Flügel linked dress to unhappiness, concluding it had to stop. He also had the improbable idea that women would go naked before men did—perhaps revealing more about his own voyeuristic wishes than about society’s aims and ideals. Unfortunately for Flügel but fortunately for the rest of us, by 1925 the first Chanel suit had already provided a brilliant resolution to industrial societies’ fiercest fashion conflicts. It was comfortable and androgynous, luxurious yet simple—a radical combination when set against the trussed-up concoctions of previous eras. Still, throughout the 20th century, women’s fashion continued to be a fraught topic. While in the 1920s the short skirt had represented greater political freedom, then again in the 1960s greater sexual freedom, by the 1980s it 29 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 had all but become a symbol of subjugation —a means by which a woman’s legs could be scrutinised and assessed. In between, we saw bra-burning by second-wave feminists, for whom the abolition of the corset was a drop in the ocean where women’s liberation was concerned. Now, we have social media pile-ons on hyper-sexualised dressing: is it oppressive, emancipatory, or both? All of which is to say that, while the overt myth about fashion is that you shouldn’t take it too seriously, the underlying truth is that it’s produced out of a complex collision of historico-political forces, and it is neither inane or trivial to give thought to what you wear. Queen Elizabeth II was a mastermind at dressing entertainingly and sensibly, exuding both wisdom and a sense of joy while conveying subtle but deliberate messages through a canny choice of colour or the clever placing of accessories (such as the circle of yellow flowers on her infamous Brexit hat). Maria Grazia Chiuri’s invocations of feminist artists, revolutionaries and dancers ring out alongside her capacity for producing clothes that work with women’s bodies rather than against them; a new look so successful that it has contributed to the tripling of Dior’s value in the six years since she took over as creative director. At last, it seems, we’ve arrived at a place where fashion can adapt to the needs of the individual wearer. Still, we see traces of the past in two of this year’s biggest trends: stealth-wealth dressing and Barbiecore. In the case of the former, label-free cashmere, muted tones and unfussy silhouettes echo the suiting of the Victorian gentleman—but, now, women have joined the club, replacing blingy logos and high-status handbags with sly sartorial flexes such as head-to-toe Loro Piana, recognisable only to those in the know. More interestingly, perhaps, Barbiecore— embodied so exuberantly by Margot Robbie in Barbie—mirrors the sophisticated psychic backflips of the 19th century bourgeois gentlewoman, concomitantly playing the decorous halfwit while bending the world to her will. Victorian novels are full of these wily creatures, manipulating their menfolk while pretending to falter under the weight of their flounces. If the word ‘wit’ describes both intelligence and humour, we could perhaps say that fashion’s most intelligent joke is on the patriarchy.  ‘Fashion: a Manifesto’ by Anouchka Grose is out now.
EDITED BY RENÉE BATCHELOR CALL TIME There is no time like the present to pull that trigger and treat yourselves to exceptional watches that are powered by the finest movements on the market. Photographed by Brandl-Utzt Production: Julika Eibelshauser Oystersteel Oyster Perpetual 41 watch with Celebration dial, Rolex 30 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Steel Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M watch with Summer Blue dial, $10,000, Omega 31 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Rose gold and diamond 4997/200R Calatrava with purple dial and satin-finished calfskin strap, Patek Philippe 32 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Gold Tank Louis Cartier watch with green lacquer dial and alligator skin strap, Cartier 33 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Aluminium Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin with rubber strap, Hublot 34 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Rose gold Tambour Automatic 40mm, $75,500, Louis Vuitton 35 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
J E W E L S & WA T C H E S WHEN EAST MEETS WEST Local bespoke jeweller B.P. de Silva has partnered with Royal Asscher from the Deco Centennial Twenties Tassel Netherlands for a stunning collaboration Diamond Necklace, dubbed the Deco Centennial Collection that B.P. de Silva celebrates 100 years of the Art Deco movement. The lineup features nine pieces of fine and high jewellery in five themes—Twenties Tassel, Cosmic, Gilded, Luminaire and Regalia—all of which reference classic Art Deco architectural elements and with Asscher-cut diamonds as the hero gems that sport a modern twist through transformability. The Deco Centennial Luminaire Diamond Lariat necklace is a prime example with an integrated movable clasp, allowing the wearer to adjust the length of the pendant to suit the mood or more importantly, the outfit. COLOUR CODED HAUTE BIJOUX The 5260/355R Aquanaut Luce ‘Rainbow’ comes with three straps of red, beige and white Patek Philippe has endowed its Aquanaut collection with its minute repeater grand complication for the first time. The new model from the Luce Ladies’ line comes in two Haute Joaillerie versions with baguette-cut sapphires and diamonds on invisible and snow settings. While the watches share the same case diameter, movement and musical chiming gongs, the straps mark the difference. The 355R comes with a sporty rubber strap , while the 1445R has a rose gold bracelet with even more sapphires—perfect for maximalist fashionistas. The latest and most talked-about collections A RELIC FOR THE FUTURE The original Tiffany & Co.’s Arsham Studio Amalgamated Bust sculpture was first presented at the Vision & Virtuosity by Tiffany & Co. exhibition in 2022 at the Saatchi Gallery in London Jewellery and art collide once again at the house of Tiffany & Co., this time in collaboration with renowned artist Daniel Arsham who produced a unique pairing to celebrate the American jeweller’s 186th anniversary. A bronze eroded Venus of Arles bust in Arsham’s “Future Relics” aesthetic encase a limited-edition T1 bracelet, which is crafted in 18K white gold, 105 diamonds and over 74 vivid green tsavorites—a nod to the signature shade of Arsham’s sculptures and Tiffany’s legacy as it was the first jeweller to introduce this gemstone to the world in 1974. “The Amalgamated Bust of Venus of Arles brings together multiple Tiffany elements to tell a story about heritage, craftsmanship and artistry, all of which are very much part of Tiffany’s identity,” said Arsham. The bust and the bracelet come in a custom Tiffany Blue art crate along with special gloves to handle these precious treasures. 36 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 BIRDS OF A FEATHER Bulgari showcases its expertise in jewellery craft and horological complications with not one but three new Divas’ Dream Peacock watches that take the métier d’art technique of marquetry to a whole other level. The minute and hour of Divas’ Dream Peacock is set against a backdrop of feathers neatly arranged to reveal the ‘eyes’, a symbol of wisdom in some cultures. Other wonders include the Mother-of-Pearl marquetry and the Precious marquetry jumping hours and retrograde minute, both of which highlight the peacock’s beauty. From top: Rose gold, diamond and multi-gem Divas’ Dream Peacock Precious Marquetry Jumping Hours And Retrograde Minutes; rose gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-Of-Pearl Marquetry, Bulgari BY BRANDON CHIA From left: Deco Centennial Twenties Tassel Diamond Convertible earring, $21,000; Deco Centennial Twenties Tassel Diamond Convertible ring, B.P. de Silva
EPIC PROPORTIONS Richard Mille and Ferrari take the victory lap with their first collaboration timepiece. By Brandon Chia The RM UP-01 Ferrari has a 45-hour power reserve and a water resistance of up to 10m. The watch went through 3,600 hours of development for the movement, 2,400 of functional design and 2,000 hours of labour on the case as well as torsional, flex and shock resistance tests before its launch ichard Mille is a horological tour de force known for precision, architecture and technical innovations in watchmaking. So, it was no surprise when the manufacture broke the world record in 2023 for the thinnest watch in existence with the RM UP-01 Ferrari. Motorsports and watches have a shared history since the ’50s as timekeeping is crucial for drivers to track their progress during training or, more importantly, at a race; but this collaboration that began in 2021 with the Italian car manufacturer goes beyond that. Both Richard Mille and Ferrari share a relentless quest for perfection and are steadfast when it comes to high-octane performance. Thus, the RM UP-01 Ferrari at just 1.75mm thick—case and movement included—was born from the combined know-how of these two iconic brands to create dozens of prototypes and more than 6,000 hours of laboratory testing to complete. While aesthetics are at the forefront of Richard Mille’s references, the brand broke away from its typical design codes to allow the technical prowess of the timepiece to shine. In particular, rather than assembling the in-house movement in the caseback, it was built within the case itself to ensure total shock resistance. “For such a project, it was necessary to set aside all the knowledge we had amassed over years of practice, and every conceivable standard of watchmaking,” explains Julien Boillat, technical director for cases at Richard Mille. Boillat added, “This is precisely what we did throughout our collaboration with the laboratories of Audemars Piguet Le Locle. Shaving off those last millimetres of depth was an extremely demanding and lengthy process.” Richard Mille tackled the ultra-flat concept by distributing components that could not be stacked across a broader surface area, which culminated in a rectangular titanium case. The movements department had to rethink the winding mechanism. The winding stem, which had a minimum height of 1.5mm, was dropped for two crowns—one for function and the other to utilise the functions—integrated into the case as movement wheels. The redesigned escapement is another attribute that played a major role in achieving the flatness of the RM UP-01 manual-winding movement that could withstand accelerations of more than 5,000 g-force. The small plate of the balance and dart—which prevents the anchor from slipping back during the free phase of the balance wheel’s movement—were removed from the construction. An elongated fork with new horns replaces these parts, significantly reducing the height. The regulator index that receives energy from the escapement was also replaced by a titanium variable-inertia balance with six weights that allow greater accuracy and repeatable calibration. Nothing was spared to achieve the technical marvels within these 150 limited edition watches; however, they were not built for just the race track. Like every model from the prestigious Swiss watchmaker, the RM UP-01 Ferrari can be worn under any circumstance. On the wearability, Salvador Arbona, technical director for movements at Richard Mille, said, “Even in the realm of extreme flatness, we were determined to make a watch that met the same validation requirements as all our other models. In this quest for absolute flatness, we had to offer a watch that, far from being a ‘concept watch’, was up to the task of following a user’s daily life.”  37 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Gucci fall/ winter 2023 Shards of Sparkles Gold, platinum and diamond Out of the Blue Star Urchin earrings, Tiffany & Co. Lucky Break White gold Vintage Alhambra long necklace, $35,300, Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Dust White gold and diamond Like a Queen Moon White brooch, Boucheron Prime Time Gold and stainless steel Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph watch, Audemars Piguet Star Power Sweet Charmer White gold, diamond and black spinel ring, $188,800, Chanel Gold, stainless steel, diamond and rubellite Serpenti Tubogas watch, $27,100, Bulgari RAZZLE DAZZLE Set the new year ablaze with brilliant jewels and two-toned timepieces Cat Friendly Chain Gang White gold, diamond and black spinel Les jeux de l’ombre Chaînes d’ombre bracelet, Hermès 38 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 BY BRANDON CHIA Big Fan Gold, white gold and diamond Red Carpet Collection earrings, Chopard White gold, diamond, emerald and onyx Panthère de Cartier bracelet, $116,000, Cartier
MUST HAVE ART OF TIME The fleet of Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages timepieces takes us on an extravagant journey. The Minute Repeater Tourbillon—a tribute to Art Deco style—celebrates the architectural splendour of New York City during the Roaring Twenties. Inspired by the Chrysler Building’s opulent facade and the wood inlays in the elevators, the dial features wood marquetry and champlevé, or metal enamel work. Craftsmen cut 110 small pearwood and tulipwood veneers with absolute precision to fit each piece in the tiny structures made of 18K rose gold. Each veneer undergoes a deep-staining process and is then sanded down to achieve the desired shades of black and blue. The case, bezel and lugs are engraved with herringbone motifs; while the 11 faceted diamond hour markers and the gold pearls along the minute track further enhance the watch’s artistic beauty. BY BRANDON CHIA Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon—a tribute to Art Deco style, Vacheron Constantin 39 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
J E W E L S & WA T C H E S here are certain jewellery motifs that remain favourites through the decades. Think hearts, flowers, birthstones and zodiac symbols. But tastes change, and what has been popular in the past can suddenly look dated or irrelevant in the present. Jewellery trends are especially interesting as they often reflect the zeitgeist of the time. In the 1940s when Van Cleef & Arpels first introduced the ballerina motif in its jewellery, it was linked to Louis Arpels’ love for the ballet from back in the 1920s. Similarly certain trends are indicative of a time period. In France, one will find the words ‘Qu’hier que Demain’ (translated from French, it means ‘than yesterday, than tomorrow’) engraved on pendants. The trend first started from a jeweller in Lyon in 1907. He took the phrase from a love poem by the poet and playwright Rosemonde Gérard, and soon these engravings were ubiquitous in France. Today these pieces still pop up in the vintage jewellery market, reflecting their immense popularity at the time. In the same way, certain stones are endeared by jewellery wearers and have come to be valued and prized among collectors. White diamonds, pearls and coloured gemstones like emeralds and sapphires continue to be popular, especially in high jewellery designs. However there have been new shifts in the world of jewellery, both in terms of the gemstones and techniques used, and even the subjects of high jewellery. From playfully oversized jewellery to opal gemstones, here are the jewellery trends we spy in the year ahead. Gold, diamond, black diamond, sapphire, ruby Eyes and Lips ring, about $7,144, Delfina Delettrez Schiaparelli haute couture fall/winter 2023/2024 GEM OF AN IDEA From sea creatures to surrealism, these are the five jewellery trends that we’re most excited about in the year ahead. By Renée Batchelor MY SURREAL LIFE One can thank Daniel Roseberry the creative director of Schiaparelli for resurrecting the storied French house’s surrealist jewellery when he first took over in 2019. Taking his cue from the iconic Jean Cocteau-designed eyed brooch with a fake pearl teardrop first created for Schiaparelli in 1952, Roseberry has been faithfully reinterpreting these motifs, season after season. Standouts include faces sculpted onto giant gold cuffs and hammered brass statement earrings with giant eyes and ears hanging off them. Meanwhile Delfina Delettrez (of the Fendi family) has been doing delicate body-part jewellery under her “Anatomic” collection for years, and her pieces are a subtler way to wear the trend. 40 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Brass, pearl and rhinestone Pansy Teardrop Curtain earrings, about $2,843; silver, brass, rhinestone and resin Visage brooch, about $2,843, Schiaparelli
POP GOES MY HEART Most collectors can boast a full repertoire of classic jewellery pieces like the tennis bracelet and pearl necklace. But how many can lay claim to a pearl necklace of almost cartoonish proportions that has been created with a mother-of-pearl powder fixed on an aluminium base. Such is the creativity at houses like Boucheron where high jewellery is being shot through with innovation to create truly fantastical pieces. Decorative brooches that look like a Hokusai wave or graphic rings in geometric shapes have also been given the pop art treatments—but are still crafted with the finest materials including gold, diamonds and sapphires and enlivened with enamelling. White gold, titanium, diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and resin More is More ring, Boucheron THE DEEP END Wh i l e a n i m a l s a re a n o t h e r enduringly popular motif in jewellery, sea creatures are a subset that have been popularised by jeweller Tiffany & Co. First White gold, sapphire explored for the House by legendary designer Jean glass, aluminium, Schlumberger, its Blue Book high jewellery collection diamond and mother-of-pearl More pays homage to some of his archival designs and include is More necklace, interpretations of the sea anemone, starfish and jellyfish. Boucheron Corals are another organic inspiration seen in Mikimoto’s “Praise to the Sea” collection that includes cheerful pieces like a vibrant coral earring and or a gemstudded fish peeking out of a beautifully-crafted coral brooch that’s straight out of a deep sea Gold and diamond Le fantasy. Jardin de Chaumet Blé head ornament, Chaumet GALAXY QUEST ADDITIONAL REPORTING: BRANDON CHIA. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT Gold, platinum, diamond, sapphire, tanzanite and moonstone Out of the Blue Jellyfish earrings, Tiffany & Co. You might know the opal as the national gemstone of Australia. And perhaps you still associate this multifaceted gem with tourist trinkets from down under. But gem-grade opals of the highest quality and especially deeper-hued stones like the black opal are highly prized. They captivate with their brilliant fire and multidimensional play on light that lend a one-of-a-kind quality to your pieces. Many have likened the swirls of colours found in an opal—think blues, greens and even flashes of orange—to peeking inside a tiny galaxy. In high jewellery pieces, opals become the centre stone and are dressed up in a multitude of ways, such as the baguette cut diamonds to emphasise their rarity, or surrounded by coloured gemstones to play up their myriad tones. White gold, diamond, black opal, sapphire, tsavorite and garnet Écorce ring, Chaumet. Platinum, diamond and black opal Out of the Blue Shell bracelet, Tiffany & Co. Gold, white gold, black rhodium, diamond, pearl, opal, garnet and sapphire brooch, Mikimoto A NEW LEAF Flowers have traditionally been a popular symbol in both high and fine jewellery, and some houses have even adopted certain blooms as their signature—think Chanel’s camellia. However, jewellers are expanding their repertoire with an alternative take on plants that were not always traditionally seen as being glamorous. These include the wheat, as seen at Chaumet, seeds, and even foliage that have been immortalised in precious pieces. We love these unexpected inspirations and the elevation of the humbler plants (and plant parts) into exquisitely White gold, titanium, crafted earrings and even diamond, sapphire and spinel Red headpieces that play with Carpet Collection texture and detail.  earrings, Chopard 41 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
HOROSCOPE CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY AQUARIUS 21 JANUARY – 19 FEBRUARY This month ushers in a period of increasing certainty about how to lay the groundwork for a more satisfying lifestyle. You are a born strategist. PISCES LEO 20 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH 23 JULY – 23 AUGUST January brings a new Moon that lights a fire under your ambitions, but as the month continues you’ll find yourself drawn into a supportive role with those who need your compassion and strength. In January, the new Moon lights up your ambitions, and once you feel you’re on track you won’t find it difficult to inspire confidence or support. VIRGO ARIES 24 AUGUST – 23 SEPTEMBER 21 MARCH – 20 APRIL As the month unfolds, you’ll be in a position to put your talents to work and focus on turning ideas into realities. Mars comes to the top of your chart at this time, and your authority will be difficult to resist. It’s important to strengthen ties with friends and associates now. LIBRA 24 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER TAURUS 21 APRIL – 21 MAY You can clear up financial tangles, and new arrangements will be advantageous. If you dream of having more control over your destiny, dare to take charge. GEMINI 22 MAY – 21 JUNE Be determined to get a better grip on joint finances. Seek expert advice and then transition into a time of exploration and adventure toward month’s end. Your courage and conviction will be on the rise as January unfolds. The new Moon of the 11th is all about taking action and asserting your right to carve out the destiny of your dreams. As January kicks in, you’ll be in some kind of new life chapter. It’s a matter of “out with the old and in with the new”, and the full Moon of the 27th accents new contacts and goals. SCORPIO 24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER Patience is definitely required until Mars, when the action planet lands in Capricorn in early January; while Pluto, your planetary ruler, resets your plans and personal compass. SAGITTARIUS CANCER 22 JUNE – 22 JULY With Mars in Capricorn in January, partners and associates will be in a highly adrenalised mode. Close ties sweeten after the 23rd. Gold, platinum, diamond, carnelian and Imperial topaz Out of the Blue Star Urchin pendant, Tiffany & Co. 42 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 You won’t get the financial boost you’re looking for until January gets underway and Mercury turns direct. Focused efforts will begin to pay off. Your star is on the rise. BY KATHARINE MERLIN 23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER
EDITED BY JEFFREY YAN THE STORY OF US THAI STARS, MEW SUPPASIT JONGCHEVEEVAT AND TUL PAKORN THANASRIVANITCHAI, ARE REWRITING THE RULES OF BEING A LEADING MAN IN FILM AND TELEVISION ALL WHILE VENTURING INTO NEW TERRITORIES, PURSUING PASSION PROJECTS AND LIVING THEIR LIVES UNAPOLOGETICALLY. BY NAVIN PILLAY. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN TODS. STYLED BY JEFFREY YAN On Tul (left): Overshirt, Tod’s. Tank top, stylist’s own. On Mew: Shirt, Tod’s. Jewellery, Mew’s own 43 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
BAZAAR MAN orget everything you think you know about being a leading man. Thai actors, Mew Suppasit Jongcheveevat and Tul Pakorn “Tyler” Thanasrivanitchai, are redefining what it means to be a household name after starring in Thai boys’ love (BL) dramas. Unlike the uninhibited and daring characters he sometimes plays on screen, Mew comes across as a reserved, soft-spoken yet confident gentleman in person. On set, he’s polite, charming and eager for feedback despite possessing a wellspring of experience in the entertainment industry. “Are my poses okay? Do I need to do anything differently?” he earnestly asks Kenneth Goh, our editor-in-chief who was art directing the shoot in Bangkok, Thailand. Mew’s rise to fame was gradual. The 32-year-old earned his stripes as a model before getting his first big break as an actor when he was cast as Pree in the Thai BL drama What The Duck: The Series (2018). The show was an instant hit in Thailand, and was brought back for a second season. But it wasn’t until his role in TharnType: The Series, where he played Tharn, a gay man who falls in love with his homophobic roommate (played by Gulf Kanawut Traipipattanapong) in university, that his star rose dramatically. Mew is also a gifted musician. His debut album 365 ranked number three on the worldwide iTunes album chart, and was number one in 18 countries. He also became the first Thai artiste to debut an album that reached the 13th spot on iTunes’ Global Digital Artist Ranking list. He has since struck out on his own with Mew Suppasit Studio, through which he releases new music. His success as an actor and recording artist hasn’t gone unnoticed. He caught the eye of luxury fashion brands such as Maison Valentino, Tod’s and BOSS, resulting in coveted partnerships and front row seats at Milan fashion week. In contrast, Tul exhibits golden retriever energy. Charming and enthusiastic in the flesh, he is the polar opposite of Mew on set. Tul is playful and adventurous, taking initiative on how to better bring the concept of the shoot to life. “It might be better if I stood behind Mew for this shot so we’re both facing the camera,” he thoughtfully suggests. His energy is infectious and he’s not afraid to do whatever it takes to get the best photo. On set, they are drawn to each other, playfully tugging at each other’s clothes, while warm embraces and encouraging shoulder rubs signal a close bond. After lunch, the laughs grew louder, the boyish repartee naughtier and the hugs tighter. Clearly, Mew and Tul have a special affinity with each other. Like his contemporary, Tul’s first foray into the entertainment industry was through modelling. “I was a drum major during the Chula–Thammasat Traditional Football match back in 2011, and I was scouted by a modelling agency,” he recalls. “I was later spotted modelling during a fashion show by a casting director and was asked to go on an audition. I started acting in my third year in university, accepting one production a year.” The casting director’s eye for talent proved to be on the money—the 31-year-old shot to fame, thanks to the success of Together With Me (2018), where he played Knock, a sexually-confused university student who ends up falling in love with his gay childhood best friend. With his newfound popularity, opportunities within the fashion industry opened up for Tul as well. Another similarity between the two men is their dedication to academic excellence. Mew has a master’s degree in Engineering from Chulalongkorn University, while Tul just graduated from Columbia University with an MSc in Real Estate Development and worked as an acquisition intern at Cycamore Capital in New York City. Mew and Tul are testament to the modern idea that there’s no one way to reach the pinnacle of success, and that there’s always room for personal and professional enrichment and time for passion projects. We sat both of them down for an intimate tête-à-tête on style, travel, upcoming projects, their goals for the new year and more. 44 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
On Mew: Jacket; trousers, Tod’s. Tank top, stylist’s own. Jewellery, Mew’s own. On Tul: Jacket (held in hand); trousers, Tod’s. Tank top, stylist’s own. Jewellery, Tul’s own OPPOSITE: On Mew: Shirt, Tod’s. On Tul: Tank top, stylist’s own. Jewellery, Tul’s own I WANT TO DO SOMETHING THAT OFFERS CUSTOMERS HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCTS AND A GOOD QUALITY OF LIFE. — TUL
BAZAAR MAN On Tul: Vest, Tod’s. Jewellery, Tul’s own. On Mew: Sweater, Tod’s. Jewellery, Mew’s own
ON FASHION Tul: How would you describe your style? Mew: It depends. I love to mix and match. I have different types of tops that I’d mix with different bottoms, shoes and accessories. T: Your wardrobe is huge (laughs)! M: What about you? T: In Thailand, anything lightweight. I’m very sensitive to the heat. I’m still experimenting with my style, but I love Korean fashion. I think the cutting is more flattering for us Asians and it’s more sophisticated. I like something minimal with details that is easy to mix and match with what you already have. For Thai fashion, I like Greyhound. M: Handbags! You have so many bags! T: Shoulder bags and crossbody bags. Well, the thing is, I don’t feel like dressing up much while in Thailand. So I play with bags instead. M: I bought him a new bag last year and I only saw him use it once. You know the problem isn’t about how often he uses it. The problem is, he was whining a lot when he wanted it. But when I bought it for him, he rarely used it. T: I used it many times! Around five times. M: In the entire year! T: When I want him to buy me something, I’ll send him a picture saying, ‘It’s beautiful, isn’t it?’ ON FOOD AND TRAVEL M: Any restaurant recommendations? T: I think Japanese restaurants are great. I like yakiniku and shabu shabu, but I really recommend grilled prawns. M: Any good ones in Ayutthaya? Once I ate them on a raft and threw up. I guess I had seasickness. River prawns are very fatty and the raft was floating, so I felt terrible. T: I would recommend Ginzado. It’s a Japanese yakiniku restaurant. M: What’s your favourite food? T: Asian food. I enjoy Thai, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean food. M: You know what our new discovery is? Peruvian food! It’s very good. T: Yes, Peruvian food! So good! M: We ate it in Canada. T: Peruvian food is like a mix of Latin and Japanese food. M: The restaurant we ate at in Miami was very good too. T: Yes. They have this dish that’s a lot like our Yum (spicy salad). I think Thai people will like it. If you don’t enjoy Mexican cuisine, you might like Peruvian. M: Do you always plan your trips or just go with the flow? T: I always plan. M: Overplan, more like it! He’s the one in charge of trips, and the itinerary is always just nice—not too packed. T: I told you I can be obsessivecompulsive. When we travel, I want the best things at the best price. It needs to be cost-efficient. When you need to be somewhere at a certain point in time— such as seeing the sunrise at a particular spot—I will do everything to make sure we get to see the sunrise. I plan everything in advance and I don’t want anyone in the group to have to pay for something unnecessarily expensive. If, at some time, business class tickets are excessively costly and premium economy is more value for money, then we should do premium economy. I’ll be attentive to everyone’s rewards and mileage to ensure they don’t need to pay extra when they can redeem miles. M: He will have all the information on hand like, if we’re going somewhere and need to use a particular airline, we should apply for this and that in advance, so we have benefits like better seats or baggage allowance. ON WHAT’S NEXT T: What are your plans for this year? M: Last year, I worked on many projects, series and movies, so you’ll see a lot of my work both on television and in cinema. I’ll be back working on music soon as well. In addition, I have a fan meet around my birthday in February, so I’m looking forward to meeting my supporters there. Among the projects that I’ve completed is Mon Rak Luk Thung, a remake of a classic Thai musical rom-com. This is my first time singing many luk thung [folk] songs. Another upcoming series you’ll see is a Thai remake of a Japanese series (Mr Hiragi’s Homeroom) called Homeroom 29 Hostages. Hopefully it’ll air in the second half of the year. There’s also a zombie movie called The Package which should be released in the first half of 2024. Another one I’m still shooting is My Wife’s Gunslinger God, which should also air later this year. T: I’m thinking of seriously moving away from entertainment, and focussing on 47 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 my family business. I’m currently working as a project manager for our new project in Bangna. It’s a community mall with a fresh food market. In the future, I would love to work in property management. I enjoy exploring residential and housing projects. I want to do something that offers customers high-quality products and a good quality of life. This is also the reason why I pursued my postgraduate study. M: What are your goals for 2024? T: I want to have a sexier body. I want to have time for the gym no matter what I have going on at work. Another goal of mine is to make more use of what I’ve learned in the US in my life. I want to be working on more tangible projects. M: I have never had a chance to use any of the things I learned during my postgraduate studies (laughs). The research I did… I’ve used none of it. ON THEMSELVES W: How would you describe yourself? T: I’m a worrywart. I think too much about every little thing despite my image as a very sociable extrovert. But when I’m on my own, I’m quite obsessive-compulsive; I will tidy my rooms and fold my clothes. M: Everyone thinks he’s easy-going and very laid-back, but in reality, he’s a worrywart. He really, really thinks about everything. He keeps worrying about others. T: It depends. I thought I could handle social media better as I got older but sometimes, I feel like I’m not as good at it as I could be. That said, after years in showbiz, I’m better at letting go and not letting it affect me as much. M: I’m the opposite of Tul. He’s a worrywart despite his easy-going image. I look like I’m overthinking but in reality, I’m much more laid back. T: Exactly (laughs)! ON LOVE T: What’s your favourite love quote? M: I don’t know… I’ve never thought of it. T: Just Google ‘love quote’ and pick one you like. M: For real? Okay, let’s see… Top 10 Love Quotes… T: My love quote is ‘Bitch, I say what I say.’ M: What should I choose…what about this one? It’s quite short. ‘When there is love, there is life.’ 
BAZAAR MAN LAST YEAR, I WORKED ON MANY PROJECTS, SERIES AND MOVIES SO YOU’LL SEE A LOT OF MY WORK BOTH ON TELEVISION AND IN CINEMA. — MEW 48 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
On Tul: Trousers; shoes, Tod’s. Tank top; socks, stylist’s own. Jewellery, Tul’s own. On Mew: Jacket; trousers; shoes, Tod’s. Tank top; socks, stylist’s own. OPPOSITE: On Mew: Trousers; Tod’s. Tank top, stylist’s own. On Tul: Blouson; trousers, Tod’s. Jewellery, Tul’s own Makeup: Pakorn Seesem Hair: Achawin Krittiyavanich Producer: Nina Simpson Photographer’s assistants: Audomsak Aemausin, Narong Tharveeyart, Wanlop Banchuen Stylist’s assistants: Phi Ritwiwat, Patipan Limsuwash Interview and translation: Samila Wenin 49 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
BAZAAR MAN PATTERN ESTABLISHMENT REFRESH YOUR WARDROBE WITH GEOMETRIC KNITS IN A RIOT OF COLOURS JW Anderson spring/ summer 2024 Box Set Jumper, $417, Sunnei Block Party Necklace, Ellie Mercer at Matchesfashion Feel the Beat Bracelet, $245, Roxanne Assoulin at Mr Porter What the Fuzz Cardigan, $2,291, Marni at Farfetch Leg Room Trousers, $1,260, Off-White Graphic Content Vest, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Kick Off Ring, $990, Bottega Veneta Works Like a Charm Earring, $260, Acne Studios at MR PORTER BY JEFFREY YAN Aqua Man Sneakers, $1,650, CELINE Homme 50 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
MOST WANTED SNACK ATTACK WITH AN ASSIST FROM STEFANO PILATI, SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI SERVED UP AN ABSOLUTE TREAT BY JEFFREY YAN There has always been a playful streak to Silvia Venturini Fendi’s accessories for the House. From belly-chain and beanie Baguettes to wateringcan bucket bags and umbrella hats, she takes a tongue-in-cheek approach to luxury, and this season, she may have outdone herself. Teaming up with fellow Italian and iconoclast, Stefano Pilati, who curated the Fendi Cruise 2024 collection, the pair gave the brand’s menswear a subversive touch— soft, relaxed suits were paired with camisoles and heels, and finished with dainty, bedazzled Baguettes. But most irreverent of all was the onigiri mini bag they cooked up, with curly white sheepskin for the ‘rice’ and green snakeskin for the ‘seaweed’ wrap. Delicious.  The onigiri mini bag is priced at $1,690 and is available at Fendi, #02-12P/Q, Ngee Ann City (tel: 6235 8827). 51 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Hermès spring/summer 2024 LOEWE spring/summer 2024 S 52 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Givenchy cruise 2024 Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2024 Wales Bonner spring/summer 2024 Gucci spring/summer 2024 Gucci spring/summer 2024 Valentino spring/summer 2024 E M NI Perhaps more than any other garment, jeans are the backbone of the modern wardrobe. But a slew of designers are proving that basic doesn’t have to be boring. At LOEWE, Jonathan Anderson’s ultra-high waists turned jeans into a high-fashion proposition. They were transformed at Gucci via a warped GG print, and at Louis Vuitton by Pharrell Williams’ new Damouflage pattern. At Valentino, they were glazed to look like leather; while at Bottega Veneta, they were actually made of leather—though you wouldn’t know it unless you actually touched them. D TING UI The suit has been well and truly liberated from its corporate uniform connotations. This season, designers imbue it with a sense of ease and lightness that allows it to be taken from the C-suite to cocktail hour. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had fluidity on their mind; their jackets were actually constructed like shirts, with structure but absolutely no stiffness. At Dries Van Noten, the suit had all the loucheness of a robe; while at Givenchy, it came with the dynamism of a tracksuit. Over at Hermès, Véronique Nichanian knocked the stuffing out of suiting with weightless versions that bordered on transparent. Burberry cruise 2024 Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 Bottega Veneta cruise 2024 FAMILIAR BUT REFRESHED, THESE ARE THE LOOKS AND PIECES WITH A PERENNIAL PLACE IN OUR WARDROBES, NOW GIVEN A NEW-SEASON SPIN. BY JEFFREY YAN Prada spring/summer 2024 BAZAAR MAN
Prada spring/summer 2024 Sacai cruise 2024 Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2024 Ferragamo cruise 2024 UTILIT Y These G days, the appeal of workwear isn’t limited to just Carhartt-core bros. The look has also been widely embraced by those who like their fashion functional. This season though, the emphasis is on the fashion. At Dior Men, Kim Jones paired cargo pockets with pleated half-skirt panels. Hed Mayner’s voluminous vests had a whiff of midcentury couture. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ versions came in pastel hues, juxtaposed with lightweight tailoring; while Dries Van Noten showed crinkled-silk cargos in off-kilter shades of burgundy and mustard.  TS W E A R Lorem Ipsum Dior Men cruise 2024 Givenchy cruise 2024 Burberry cruise 2024 Hed Mayner spring/summer 2024 Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2024 R JW Anderson spring/summer 2024 Wales Bonner spring/summer 2024 PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT; BRANDS P O AR Dior Men cruise 2024 E S Athletic gear has long transcended the realms of track and field, and made its way onto the runways. Fashion, of course, has always had a way with turning the everyday into the extraordinary, and this season, designers outdid themselves. At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams sent out football jerseys elevated in leathers. There were sculpted rugby shirts at JW Anderson, and silken baseball separates at Dior Men. Meanwhile, at Ferragamo and Burberry, the humble tracksuit was given a rigorous silhouette and crafted in rich materials, respectively.
BAZAAR MAN ok Hwang in his dad’s arms co Chooee Hwang, 47, CEO of Streething o u ri t e d i s h t o HE’S THE MAN w an g’ sf av “My dad has always been someone I looked up to; my hero. He gives the best advice in life.” H RECIPE FOR THE SOUL MASTER MIND “If I weren’t in the creative industry, I’d probably be a chef as I love to cook. I’m best known for my spaghetti alle vongole.” “Two of my favourite designers are Daisuke Obana and Shigeyuki Kunii. Daisuke Obana of N.Hoolywood is a master at making tweaks that look so simple yet have such a big impact on the clothes. Shigeyuki Kunii is the sneaker designer who has done hundreds of sneaker collaborations and is still churning out hit after hit.” STYLE STARS “Takuya Kimura and Tony Leung are the most stylish representations of Asian men in my generation. Johnny Depp in 21 Jump Street— 21 Jump Street: The Complete Series the series, not DVD, $50, Amazon the movie, made Americana so effortlessly cool. Back then, I would try to tear my Levi’s 501 jeans and get a flannel shirt from the thrift store just to look like him.” INSPIRATION “My most treasured wardrobe pieces are my ’85 Air Jordan 1 Chicago, the original first release of the Air Jordan 1 in 1985.” CHOOEE HWANG Former banker Chooee Hwang took a leap of faith and founded Streething 18 years ago, a creative content agency where their clients are mostly streetwear or sports brands—aspects very close to his heart and style. While his first fashion memory was when he asked his mother for a pair of overalls when he was only three, the youthful 47-year-old believes that timeless style is not only knowing what suits your physique best, but also the climate and environment you’re in. A quote he lives by? “Be better than you were yesterday.” THIS IS HOME “I am excited for 2024 as Singapore gets to be the spotlight on the world stage, hosting more international events.” Skyline of Singapore ARTISTS AT WORK TIME HONOURED “Paul Newman is an icon of timeless style. He just always dressed right for any occasion. A well-fitted white t-shirt, a pair of dark denims, and a pair of penny loafers can never go wrong.” New Balance 1906R marketing campaign in collaboration with Japanese stylist and fashion director, Akio Hasegawa PROJECT PROUD “Working with concept artist Akio Hasegawa and photographer Ryosuke Kosuge for New Balance 1906R marketing campaigns were one of my greatest achievements thus far. We did a guerilla marketing campaign for New Balance 2002R during the height of Covid as well, and I remember Extraordinary Life doing zoom calls in of an Ordinary Man: my bedroom to make A Memoir, $42.80, Amazon.sg it all happen.” 54 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 PHOTOGRAPHY: CHOOEE HWANG, AMAZON, N.HOOLYWOOD, 123RF N.Hoolywood menswear spring/ summer 2024 Hwang’s prized possession, the original Air Jordan 1
EDITED BY RENÉE BATCHELOR NATURAL HABITAT In both her home and her new studio, Es Devlin has conjured up artistic havens where greenery flourishes and the imagination runs free. By Charlotte Brook. . Photographed by Kensington Leverne. Styled by Gal Klein Es Devlin in her living room 55 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
A FA S H I O N A B L E L I F E Clockwise from top: Devlin with her cat. The living room. A view from the garden rom a shady glade towards the back of Es Devlin’s meadowlike garden, I admire the handsome red-brick Victorian house where the artist and stage designer lives with her husband and two children, which also contains her studio. It feels incongruous that this suburban idyll in north Dulwich has produced some of the most jaw-dropping big-budget sets in modern history—from the London 2012 Olympics closing ceremony to Lady Gaga’s tours and last year’s Super Bowl half-time show—as well as Devlin’s own independent art installations. All are created with her team, who occupy a white room at the front of the property, lined with books, maquettes and pencil drawings. Mirrored double doors demarcate the personal and the professional parts of the house, although they are often open; in the family kitchen, the studio’s cook is putting the finishing touches to staff lunch. The designer soon joins me outdoors, apologising for having been held up on a marathon Zoom call and delighting in the fresh air. “Oh, look, here’s a bluetit joining us,” she says, greeting the bird with a smile. “Right, let’s eat and talk.” As you might expect from an English graduate, musician and designer known for the breadth of her work and depth of her research, Devlin has an encyclopaedic mind. During our conversation, which takes place over plates of beetroot and pistachio salad, her references encompass AI, 56 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Clockwise from top left: Art in the space. The kitchen and dining area. Devlin in her practice’s new Peckham studio I TAKE STORIES SERIOUSLY. IT’S ABOUT INTERCONNECTIVITY. ALL PARTS OF LIFE ARE RELATED TO ONE ANOTHER. Mark Rylance, the Bayeux Tapestry, hieroglyphs, Zadie Smith, the common-land law and the meaning of selfies. Yet, for an artist at the height of her powers—with whom pop stars, theatre-makers (Sam Mendes and Benedict Cumberbatch), Olympic committees and fashion houses including Chanel and Saint Laurent clamour to work with—she is generous and easygoing. BAZAAR had a glimpse of her innate spirit of collaboration last year, when she and Cate Blanchett co-created the magazine’s art-issue cover; during this shoot, Devlin frequently asked for input from everyone present. “I think we could… groovify this set-up a bit more,” she said at one point. “Thoughts?” Her instinct to add drama wherever possible is evident in her home, which she bought, gutted and transformed with her team’s help (many have backgrounds in architecture) in 2016. She had the open-plan living area’s bare-brick Londonsandstone walls enhanced, trompe-l’œil-style, by the National Theatre’s set painter; and in one corner stands a surreal eight-foot model of a manicured hand—a replica of those Devlin made for a 2017 production of Carmen. A happy sense of purpose pervades both the living and working spaces: unsurprising, given 2023 is Devlin’s biggest year yet, in which she steps out of the wings and into the spotlight herself. This autumn, she publishes her 57 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
A FA S H I O N A B L E L I F E Top: The new space. Below: Devlin’s forthcoming book. Its front cover smallest-scale but most personal project to date: a book titled An Atlas of Es Devlin. Part-memoir, part-monograph, the volume comprises her life story, favourite creations and conversations with collaborators including Virgil Abloh, Carlo Rovelli and Pharrell Williams, alongside practical exercises for the reader. There are shapes to cut out, pages to unfold, annotated scripts to read and mirrors to see yourself in. The format is, in part, inspired by a cherished childhood memory. “When I was little, I’d return to my local library every week to renew a book called something like 100 Ideas for a Rainy Day,” she says. “It told you how to make a mini board game and how to roll a periscope. My relationship with words was always intertwined with an instinct to intervene with the page.” Another enduring aspect of Devlin’s philosophy, picked up early on in life, is her enthusiasm in seeing things as a connected whole, whether people, projects or creative disciplines. As a garrulous schoolgirl, she would often find herself turfed out of lessons to sit in the corridor as a punishment; she’d wander around, taking in I’M OFTEN CALLED UPON TO HAVE THE ANSWERS, BUT I’M GOING TO TRY OUT RADICAL VULNERABILITY. audible fragments floating out of various classroom doors—an element from the periodic table, a saxophone note, a line of poetry, a maths equation. She absorbed them all as a harmony and has assumed the role of conducting her own ever since. “I take stories seriously—I read them with the same part of the brain that I do science and statistics,” she says. “It’s about interconnectivity. All parts of life on the planet are related to one another—it’s a simple idea, but difficult to experience or feel in this world currently, because so many of our cultural frameworks are about separation. For example—it shouldn’t be the case that art always belongs in a gallery, music in a record player, fragrance in a bottle. Why not together?” Multi-tasking is central to Devlin’s role within her practice, which she compares to playing every character in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. “At times, I’m Oberon and Titania, who imagine something and simply… make it so,” she says. “Then you’re a Rude Mechanical, lost in the 58 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
minutiae of how to hold the lantern, or you’re the lovers caught in-between, getting tied up in knots and lost in a forest, often for hours on end.” But the result is worth it? “Well, the play is wonderful…” she says, with a wry smile. That said, she has found that dispersing her talent and creations among many people and places can lead to a sense of fragmentation of self. “My book is a self-administered antidote to that feeling,” she says. And now, having taken stock, Devlin is ready to embark on a new phase of her career: one that allows for free-styling experimentation, by herself, in her own space. “My great mentor [the contemporary artist] William Kentridge came round and looked in there,” she says, nodding towards the busy house. ‘And he basically said, “Well, if you want to do your own thing, this isn’t going to work.” Space and silence for blue-sky thinking was required. So, she acquired a new home for the team—a converted open-plan mews house down the road in Peckham, which Devlin invites BAZAAR to photograph ahead of moving everyone there in a few weeks’ time. Downstairs, the floor is newly Clockwise from top: Sketches from her archive. A giant hand from her 2017 staging of Carmen. The artist outside her new space painted gloss white; upstairs, there is a full-wall drawing of a contorting woman that she has stayed up all night ‘boshing out’. It echoes some of her sketches for Beyoncé’s stadium-shaking Renaissance world tour this year, a dazzling wraparound LED display whose narrative was inspired by the musician’s lockdown poetry. The mural is the only sign of interior decoration, while the rest remains minimalist—a blank canvas in which ideas and aesthetics of any kind can flourish, furnished only by elements essential to Devlin’s practice: light, which streams in through a misted glass roof, and nature (bees hum around jasmine plants outside—a tiny living nod to last year’s installation outside Tate Modern, ‘Come Home Again’, her ode to London’s biodiversity). As always, there is much in the pipeline for Devlin and her prolific team. To coincide with the book launch, New York’s design museum Cooper Hewitt is holding a career retrospective; here in the UK, Londoners can wander through an Es Devlin creation, too, via her maze-like staging of ‘Gucci Cosmos’, the brand’s extravagant showcase of its 102-year history on the Strand. And as for what Devlin might get up to in her new laboratory at home—who knows? “That’s the beauty of it,” she says. “I’m often called on to have the answers. But I’m going to try out what [the art critic] Jerry Saltz calls radical vulnerability. Start without a plan. Open yourself up to the possibility you’ll make something that’s hideous, or expressive of pain, or doubt… Or just terrible!” she says, laughing. “But I will have the space to try. Try things, maybe make something. And then carry that gentle, fragile little creature into another room, full of people, and say, ‘I’d like your help— let’s see what it might be in the world…’” I think the world will look forward to seeing it.  59 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
A FA S H I O N A B L E L I F E N CA VAS O F T C A P I TA L TH E HE Clockwise from left: Lac Rose no. 8 (2021), photography by Denisse Ariana Peres, Open Doors Gallery. Viper Weave 8 (2023), glazed stoneware by Malene Hartmann Rasmussen, TIN MAN ART. The Course of Water and Time, The Aylesbury Fragments (2023), by Harriet Mena Hill, Saul Hay Gallery The London Art Fair will return to the UK capital from 17 to 21 January. Visitors can look forward to diverse works of art, both modern and contemporary, masterfully curated visual displays as well as a variety of inspiring talks, captivating performances and TALKING POINTS From the worlds of Art, Culture, Travel and Design informative tours. In addition, London Art Fair continues to champion and support regional museums through its annual Museum Partnership. Charleston, once home to the 20th century’s most pioneering artists, writers and thinkers, will be represented at the event through a showcase of its impressive collection of art, textiles and ceramics. More than 120 galleries from around the world, including Japan, Portugal and Turkey will be at the fair and visitors can check out the works of some of the most iconic and respected artists including Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol, Bridget Riley and David Hockney. MAKING ART ART SG makes its return to Singapore Art Week (SAW) from 19 to 28 January. The fair will once again host some of the world’s best known galleries including the Gagosian, White Cube and Thaddaeus Ropac, testifying to the strong collecting base and interest in Singapore. Additionally, the event will also feature an impressive line-up of Southeast Asian galleries, showcasing the very best in contemporary art practice from the region, through regional stalwarts Yavuz Gallery, Richard Koh Fine Art, Mizuma Gallery, Sullivan + Strumpf, FOST GALLERY, and first-time participants including BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY, Nadi Gallery, Rissim Contemporary and Kohesi Initiatives. (Top): Pemandangan Duniawi, #3 (2023), oil on linen, by Agus Suwage, Mizuma Art Gallery. (Left): Neural Paintings—A (2023), by Refik Anadol, bitforms gallery 60 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
VISUAL LANGUAGE Bali-based, Italian artist, Filippo Sciascia will feature at Singapore Art Week 2024 in a showcase of his sheer talent and artistic mastery. His latest collection features photo-realistic and painstakingly crafted paintings, and a return to his iconic “cracked” painting ART IN A COMPLEX WORLD series. Sciascia’s work portrays scenes illustrating light’s significant role in the To kick off a new year, art gallery STPI will be participating development of mankind’s in three events during the Singapore Art Week. The three technological progress—clearly showing off his events are ART SG; curatorial platform S.E.A. Focus, and fascination with light as an anthropological catalyst, “Meditations on Shadow Libraries”, a solo exhibition by Titled TABLET, the thought provoking exhibition Singapore artist Heman Chong, which will be curated by spans both ancient and the writer and editor of arts platform e-Flux, Brian Kuan modern eras, symbolising Wood. Chong’s works focus on the socio-political the evolution of complexities of the world we live in with thought- communication and provoking pieces: Cover (Versions) (2009-ongoing), as technology, presenting well as a series of eye-catching abstract artworks. Heman his interpretation of Chong’s exhibition is from 17 January to 10 March 2024. man’s adaptive journey through time. TABLET shows at Yeo Workshop, Above, from left: I should explain that this story will emerge from a gradual vision—for the past two and a half years I have slowly started discovering the whys and the wherefores (2018); It is the vision of the imminence of...,(2018) Heman Chong 47 Malan Road #01-25 from 13 January AIR’s Circular Campus Clockwise from top: TABLET 5 (2023); TABLET 2 (2023); TABLET 1 (2023), Filippo Sciascia at Yeo Workshop PEACH PERFECT Add a playful touch to your home with Pantone’s Colour of The Year, Peach Fuzz BY LARISSA WONG EATING AIR AIR is a new restaurant, circular campus and cooking club located at Dempsey Hill. Established by renowned chefs, Matthew Orlando, Will Goldfarb and entrepreneur Ronald Akili, this new gastronomic concept aims to inspire thoughts about food. Laid-back yet sophisticated, the chefs used the dedicated space to experiment and uncover the endless possibilities of quality produce to create delicious food combinations that delight your taste buds, one plate at a time. The restaurant space is set against a lush vegetable garden, giving diners an insight to where the flavour starts. Additionally, young chefs and food enthusiasts are more than welcome to learn the ins and outs of the medicinal qualities of ingredients found in the garden. AIR is at 25B Dempsey Road 61 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Clockwise from below: Pantone Peach Fuzz Pop Divide Rug, about $944, at Ruggable. Seam Sculpted Vase, $147, Completedworks at Farfetch. Circle Lamp 160 in peach, about $217, Toniton x Mono, at Toniton. Freestanding stove in Peach, about $3,627, Smeg at Toniton. PH5 Pendant Light by Louis Poulsen, $1,527, at Finnish Design Shop
A FA S H I O N A B L E L I F E WIDE BLUE YONDER Revel in expansive vistas and laid-back luxury at the Maçakizi hotel in Turkey – a jewel of the Aegean Sea ome 800 miles from the epicentre of Turkey’s recent catastrophic earthquakes, the timeless beauty of the Bodrum countryside remains undisturbed. Stone-domed, 16th century cisterns and 18th century windmills crown the buxom hills, and white-washed villages are scattered across the pine-clad slopes. As we made our way from the airport along a route that twisted through narrow village streets, our car braking for sleepy cats and foolhardy goats, the sea seemed to burst into view at every turn, until eventually we reached a bay where tallmasted sailing ships jostled with sleek yachts and working fishing boats. After leaving grey and drizzly Britain, our arrival at the Maçakizi hotel (pronounced ‘magic-easy’) felt like swapping the school canteen for the Ritz. It was not difficult to see why supermodels, rock stars, international royalty and discreet billionaires have long made this a favourite refuge. Ahmet Ertegun, the founder of Atlantic Records, used to stay here with Mick Jagger, Chuck Berry and Bette Midler. Nowadays, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell love the place so much that they rarely miss a season. With views across the turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea, Maçakizi sits at the northern end of the Bodrum Peninsula, just along the rugged coast from the small, buzzy village of Turkbuku, with its seaside restaurants serving freshly caught fish. The hotel, Clockwise from right: The busy Bodrum harbour is home to a shipping and boat building industry that dates back to three millenia. Enjoy a view of the turquoise sea at a terrace at the hotel. Another of Maçakizi’s terraces. A beautiful Aegean seascape punctuated by tiny vegetation-thick islets 62 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
whose name means ‘the Queen of Spades’, a symbol of intelligence and beauty, was founded in 1977 by the entrepreneur Ayla Emiroglu. Her son Sahir Erozan, who now runs the business, is here, there and everywhere, his approach heralded by the unmistakeable scent of a lit cigar, ready to lavish care and attention on his guests. The hotel’s 74 rooms and suites are laid out over hillside terraces that are filled with pepper plants, tangerine bushes, delicate blue plumbago flowers and century-old olive trees. They come furnished with brilliantly coloured fabrics, hand-painted ceramics and works by contemporary Turkish artists, each selected personally by Erozan. From the huge window in the sanctuary of our airy room on the uppermost terrace, we faced the stunning panorama of the bay below. The path from our suite descended to what was known as ‘the Beach’—a sweeping 63 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
A FA S H I O N A B L E L I F E Top: A stunning panoramic view of the 15th century St Peter’s Castle in the city of Bodrum and the marina bay on the Turkish Riviera at sunset. Below: Maçakizi’s pool. OPPOSITE: The interior of Villa Maçakizi wooden walkway set over a sheltered expanse of the sea. We marvelled at the view before us: a seascape punctuated by tiny, vegetation-thick islets, which has not changed since the piratedriven traffic of the Bronze Age criss-crossed these waters 4,000 years ago. Climbing back up the hill, we found the hotel’s Nuxe Spa tucked among the trees, offering an array of indulgent treatments. After a luxurious deep-tissue massage, we opted for an invigorating body-scrub in the slick black and white marble hammam: nothing could be more restorative than a traditional Turkish bath. Nearby, the restaurant forms part of a vast, glasswalled space, with sumptuous coffee-table books in the lounge areas and a long wooden cocktail bar. One night, when we sat for dinner, we were treated to plump squid cooked in its own ink, a favourite of the chef Aret Sahakyan, while the organic celeriac purée, made using ingredients from the hotel’s plentiful plots and accented with a hint of local orange juice, confirmed what vegetables should really taste like. After a couple of days of this reviving luxury, we were in the mood for a little sightseeing. Half an hour away by road, the city of Bodrum offers its visitors an ideal mix of history, culture and retail temptation. Once known as Halicarnassus, the city to which Alexander the Great laid siege in 344 BC, Bodrum was the site of a magnificent mausoleum (sadly destroyed by an earthquake about 1,000 years ago) classed among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The busy harbour, home to a shipping and boatbuilding industry that dates back three millennia, is dominated by 64 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
TEXT: JULIET NICOLSON. PHOTOGRAPHY: BIANCA NATI/@LOSTWITHLINA; GETTY IMAGES; CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY; 123RF the 15th century St Peter’s Castle, constructed by Crusader knights. It now houses a museum with full-size replicas of ancient shipwrecks, an astonishing cargo of glass recovered from hundreds of fathoms below the sea, and hoards of gold and silver. In the alleyways near the castle, we explored cavernous shops crammed with three of this country’s most desirable lifeenhancers: slippers, carpets and, of course, Turkish delight. Another of the attractions of the hotel’s location is it can be used as a jumping-off point for Greek-island hopping, should you happen to be travelling by boat. Fortunately for the rest of us, Maçakizi has its own chic, white-upholstered speedboat, which we used to take an exhilarating ride across the bay to check out the hotel’s private villa. This is the ultimate cross-generational party house on Paradise Bay, accessible only via a jetty from the water and with staff outnumbering guests by three to one. Here, residents become the sole beneficiaries of a huge infinity pool on which sunshine dances like strobe lighting, a seductively scented spa and a master vintner’s wine cellar. The villa’s chefs are available to fulfil your gastronomic desires and there is even a tiny pastry kitchen devoted exclusively to producing mouthwatering baklava. After five days of dreamy Turkish hospitality, and with our suitcases packed full of treasures, we reluctantly turned our backs on the glamour of Maçakizi, the glint of its superstar glitter shimmering in our minds long after our return to rainy everyday life. Visit Maçakizi at www.macakizi.com.  D O N ’ T L E AV E HOME W I T H O U T. . . Top, Max Mara Sandal, $1,770, Chanel Cardigan, $2,025, Alexander McQueen Hat, $1,330, Prada Bag, $14,200, Bottega Veneta Necklace, $2,490, Burberry Swimsuit, $465, Tory Burch Ring, $450, Givenchy Sunglasses, $670, LOEWE Dress, $7,900, Dior 65 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 Shorts, $1,350, CELINE Scarf, $320, Hermès
EDITED BY ARISSA HA DOPAMINE RUSH Light up your life with bright, vivid hues that add a touch of vibrance to the eyes. Photographed by Monika Lis CITRUS CHIC A vibrant, canary yellow like Glisten Cosmetics Wet Liner in Solar ($10.25) creates a bold block of colour that's impossible to ignore. Outline a graphic shape along the lids with a fine eyeliner brush and fill in with colour—you’ll make a statement with every blink. 66 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
AQUA ALLURE Deep dive with an eye catching teal brushed across the lid. Use your fingers to sweep a cream shadow, in this case, Half Magic’s Chromaddiction Matte Eye Paint & Liner in Serving Siren ($33.50), from the outer corner inwards. For precises lines, use a Q-tip dipped in micellar water to clean up the edges. 67 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
PURPLE UNLEASHED A bold symphony of purple envelopes the eyes in a velvety embrace. Begin by lavishing your lid with a deep, velvety hue like Sample Beauty’s Single Eyeshadow in Aubergine ($5.75) using a fluffy brush for a diffused, soft-focus effect. Then, with a smaller, flat eyeshadow brush, carefully carry the same shade along the brow bone, to sculpt a look that’s as audacious as it is elegant. 68 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
ROSE-TINTED GAZE Achieve a subtle flush with an electric edge by applying a soft rosy blush like the Gucci Beauty Blush de Beauté in 03 Radiant Pink ($95) across the eyelid and cheek. Complement it with a striking pink liner like Dior’s Diorshow On Stage Liner in 891 Matte Pink ($54) for a modern twist. Model: Jasmine Dwyer Makeup: Amanda Thesen Hair: Sasha Fomenko 69 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
BEAUTY MIRROR, MIRROR In a world where beauty is a highly covetable commodity, is there a sweet spot between minimal effort and obsessive vanity? India Knight has advice on how to make looking good a pleasure, not a chore here is a part of me—quite an insistent part— that wants to wash her face in the morning, slap on some sunblock and be done with it. It’s the same part that, in a parallel universe, has stopped colouring her hair and wears utility clothing. This version of me intensely dislikes, and maybe even disapproves of, excessive vanity. It comes hurtling to the fore when I watch certain beauty influencers on TikTok. It isn’t just the outlandish amount of makeup they all trowel on, but also the fact that they’re so young. They start off with a bare face and you can see the pertness in their skin, the gorgeous peachy bloom that they will spend the coming decades trying to recapture. They look beautiful. “Leave your face alone,” I mutter at my phone. Then, as the videos progress: “OK, fine, that’s nice”, and next, “Lovely. Stop there”. But they never do. And that’s the point at which I go all intransigent and think, every single time, “Oh my God. How is it possible to be so vain?” I am averagely vain myself, and yet vanity, my own included, makes me uncomfortable. I’m 57, of a generation for which the idea of being considered massively vain—let alone earning a lucrative living from filming yourself being massively vain in public—would have been the most cringemaking thing imaginable. When did vanity become a 70 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
PHOTOGRAPHY: ERIK MADIGAN HECK commodity? Of course, beauty has always involved artifice, and of course we knew how to scrub up nicely when we needed to, but I think we also instinctively understood something pretty basic about the intersection between vanity and insecurity. “She is covered in makeup,” we’d say scathingly of some poor girl—not because we necessarily disliked the makeup, but because we were conscious of the pathos of hiding beneath quite so much of it, of the desire for reinvention literally having been painted on. We were all insecure young women in one way or another, but to broadcast that fact by wearing a mask of makeup felt embarrassing. (Makeup meant different things, too. I was 15 in 1980, a decade in which it was worn less for prettiness than to semaphore edginess as your underage self tried to blag her way into a club, or, later, to demonstrate power and competence, similar to a shoulder pad or a stiletto heel.) I think that beauty, like so much else, has become binary: you’re either obsessed or too confused to keep up. So, what interests me now is the intersection between vanity and straightforward maintenance. That seems a manageable place to be: not giving up entirely, but not obsessing so crazily that you end up feeling permanently dissatisfied with how you look. Like it or not, we are are all vain to some degree, even the makeup-free among us, since there is vanity in going bare-faced too: it requires a great deal of confidence in one’s looks. Women who choose not to wear cosmetics tend to have good skin and a decent bone structure; there is less of an imperative to gild the lily. The rest of us feel that we are improved with a bit of help. But there’s such a vast disconnect between ‘a bit of help’ and the hyper-vanity of beauty influencers, between looking online for a decent night cream and being presented with a thousand confusing options, that a lot of people feel lost in limbo. On the one hand, there’s the trusty makeup that has served them well for decades—it may not be quite ‘of the moment’ (their daughter, whatever her age, is unlikely to ask to borrow it), but it more or less does the job. On the other, there’s the brave new world of endless launches and technical innovations in cosmetics and skincare—this ‘must-have’ and that ‘essential’ and this ‘waiting list’—which has created a landscape so vast and confusing, so weirdly specialised and alienating, that it can feel easier and more comfortable to walk away from it altogether. What this sizeable category of people want is to be vain, but not too vain. They wish to be themselves, but discreetly improved or enhanced, as opposed to barely recognisable. They don’t have the time or inclination to apply 35 products to their face. If you fall within this category, the main thing to know is that doing very little can make a significant difference, especially if you don’t love the way in which your face is ageing. There’s no need to choose between a kind of absolutist puritanism—“I no longer understand the beauty world, therefore I will use either nothing or my old brown pencil”—and imitation: “I must learn how to do my face like the 22-year-olds on social media.” It’s not as scary as it seems, and it’s important to not to feel bullied out of the picture. My mantra is that skincare is everything—at any age, but particularly for older women—and that makeup is secondary. In my view, the greatest mistake older women make is to take a haphazard approach to looking after their skin, and then try to compensate by wearing the same amount of makeup as they did in their youth (often using the same lo-tech toolkit). I believe in better skincare and less makeup, but in both cases focusing on really good products, with excellent modern formulations that are a cinch to apply: a serious serum and a fantastic new eye pencil can be transformative. It’s an approach that feels more like maintenance than vanity, and that makes me happy.  India Knight’s Beauty Edit: What Works When You’re Older, $45.36, Kinokuniya. 71 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 INDIA’S ESSENTIAL BEAUTY EDIT A HIGH-PERFORMING CLEANSER I test dozens a year and have lots of crushes, but always return to Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm. It’s the one I buy with my own money AN AMAZING SERUM I love one with vitamin C, specifically Skinceuticals’ legendary CE Ferulic A LIQUID EXFOLIANT Everyone’s skin is different, but I don’t think anyone can go wrong with Alpha-H Liquid Gold NATURALLOOKING MAKEUP For skin that still looks like skin, use Chanel’s CC Cream. I swear by Erborian BB Crème as well
BEAUTY K NOW Y OU R 72 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 When it comes to good health, popping little vitamin pills for our body is par for the course. But these essential nutrients are also found in just about every skincare products. And while it is no magic bullet to fix all your skincare concerns, knowing what goes into your skincare cocktail is critical to achieve that healthy, glowing skin. Just read the label on your fave creme a little closer, and look out for these beauty buzzwords. By Arissa Ha
V I TA M I N B 3 : T HE Vitamin C Lactic 15% Vitamin C Firm & Bright Serum, $135, Dr. Dennis Gross. Daylight Oasis Vitamin C Brightening Serum, $109, Sigi Skin MU A Vitamin B3, LT IF sometimes listed as niacinamide, is a versatile and gentle ingredient suitable for a wide range of skin types and concerns. It’s known for its ability to strengthen the skin’s barrier, enhancing its ability to retain moisture and defend against environmental stressors. This makes it particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it can help to reduce transepidermal water loss and improve skin hydration. Additionally, niacinamide is effective in managing acne, reducing inflammation and calming redness, making it an essential ingredient for those with acne-prone or reactive skin. Beyond its hydrating and soothing properties, niacinamide also help regulate oil production, reduce the appearance of pores, and improve skin tone marred by hyperpigmentation and sun damage. It’s well-tolerated even by those with sensitive skin, but as with any active ingredient, starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing the application can minimise potential irritation. The stability and effectiveness of niacinamide in skincare formulations make it a reliable and beneficial component of any skincare routine. CE TED PRO EN IN G A N IO T O R VITAMIN E: THE NURTURING MOISTURISER C: THE BRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES T Vitamin E is known for its moisturising and healing properties, making it an excellent ingredient for dry, irritated, or damaged skin. It’s a natural antioxidant, which helps protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stressors. This makes it particularly beneficial in healing and soothing formulations, often found in products designed to calm inflammation and repair skin barrier. Vitamin E’s moisturising properties are beneficial for those with dry skin, as it helps to lock in moisture and restore the skin’s natural oil balance. It’s often used in combination with vitamin C in skincare products, as the two vitamins work synergistically to enhance each other’s antioxidant effects. Regular use of vitamin E enriched products can significantly improve skin hydration, texture and overall health. V I T AM IN TE C B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum, $107, Sunday Riley XI Vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, is celebrated for its skin brightening and antiageing properties. It’s instrumental in collagen synthesis, aiding in skin firmness and resilience, and is effective in mitigating the visible effects of sun damage and hyperpigmentation, contributing to a more even and radiant skin tone. Additionally, its antioxidant properties protect against oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like pollution and UV radiation, which can lead to premature skin ageing. However, vitamin C’s efficacy is highly dependent on its formulation. It’s a notoriously unstable ingredient, prone to degradation in the presence of light and air. Therefore, proper packaging, typically in dark or opaque bottles, is crucial to maintain its potency. Likewise, storage in a cool, dark place can extend its shelf life. As vitamin C can increase the skin’s photosensitivity, complementing its use with a broad-spectrum sunscreen is vital to protect the skin from potential UV damage. DA NT BALANCING ACT Super Knights – multi vitamin mask, $55, belif. Vitamin Enriched Face Base, $154 for 100ml, Bobbi Brown 73 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024 While vitamins A, B3, C, and E are each beneficial for skincare, it’s prudent to approach their combination with care. Certain pairings, such as vitamins A and C, may increase the likelihood of skin sensitivity or irritation, particularly for those with more delicate skin. Using these potent vitamins at different times—perhaps one in the morning and the other in the evening— is a strategic way to harness their benefits without overwhelming the skin. The interaction of vitamins B3 and C, though generally safe, might require more care for those with sensitive skin. Always use sunscreens, as several of these ingredients can heighten sun sensitivity. Knowing how these vitamins work and interact allows you to draw up a skincare routine that’s just right for you, so that you not only improve your skin’s health but also its overall appearance. 
SUPER TROOPER The original supermodel, Cindy Crawford, talks about using her voice to tell her own story, and looks back at her remarkable career through a new lens. By Renée Batchelor. Photographed by Yu Tsai. Styled by Deborah Afshani Suit and trousers, Dolce&Gabbana. Pumps, Giuseppe Zanotti. Monogram bag, MCM. Earrings; necklace; signet ring, Anita Ko 74 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
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76 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Suit dress, Alexander McQueen. Earrings; necklace, Anita Ko. Ring, stylist’s own OPPOSITE: Jacket; shirt; skirt; shoes; ring, Dior. Earring, Anita Ko. Bag, MCM
indy Crawford has graced the cover of Harper’s BAZAAR Singapore on three different occasions (December 2005, September 2011 and February 2020). January 2024 marks the supermodel’s fourth cover since that first time, nearly 20 years ago. In a barrier-breaking career marked by countless milestones, from high profile campaigns, music videos and commercials to her own beauty line, it’s nice for a title to have that personal connection to one of the most famous and well-recognised faces in the industry. The first question I ask Crawford is how her relationship with BAZAAR’s editor-in-chief Kenneth Goh first began. “I first met Kenneth in 2005 in Kuala Lumpur. I was there with Omega watches and had the opportunity to do a BAZAAR cover with Kenneth and photographer Simon Upton. We shot at a cool, old mansion called Carcosa Seri Negara. We all had a great rapport and I loved the images we created. We have had the opportunity to work together three more times since then and also, Kenneth and I run into each other in Paris and other places during fashion events,” she shares. Crawford was most recently spotlighted in the Apple TV+ documentary The Super Models alongside her fellow supers: Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista. Growing up in the era of supermodels and revisiting the imagery alone was a nostalgic experience for me as a viewer, so I can only imagine the impact going down memory lane must have had for the four women themselves. Beyond just chronicling the time when the fab four reigned as fashion icons and perhaps, the original influencers of their time, the documentary was a way for the supermodels to take charge of their own narratives and the way they were characterised (and even mischaracterised) by the media. Says Crawford, “The most exciting thing about the documentary is that the four of us produced it. We felt like there is so much nostalgia for our era and that we wanted to have a voice in telling our story. It was so great reconnecting and spending time with each other and looking back on that time through the lens of time and experience.” Crawford acknowledged that spending time with the three women was one of the best parts about doing the documentary. “I loved hearing each of their stories and recollections. Of course, I was very moved by all Linda has been through. I also learned a lot from Naomi’s story. Even though I was around at that same time, hearing Naomi explain how she was often paid less than the other models was painful and a reminder of how we all need to stick together to be inclusive.” Although Crawford jokes in the series that she may as well now be known as Kaia’s mother—her daughter Kaia Gerber is an ultra-successful model today—anyone who grew up in the ’90s knows just how groundbreaking a career Crawford has had. Dubbed the quintessential all-American beauty, Crawford literally grew up working in the cornfields of DeKalb, Illinois as a teenager, but transcended her self-described blue collar roots to attain not just commercial success, but true brand name recognition. In the ’90s Crawford had an exercise video, makeup book and a movie—all things a traditional runway or editorial model might not necessarily think to branch out to. She was a brand before branding became a buzzword, and in hindsight, the business-savvy model and entrepreneur was breaking ground for the countless women who came after her. She also brought fashion to the masses via MTV’s House of Style at the time when cable TV was the main cultural touchpoint for a lot of consumers. Crawford also parlayed jobs into long-term partnerships with top brands. “It wasn’t deliberate at first but as my career progressed, I found that companies like Pepsi and Omega were willing to invest in me and have long-term relationships as opposed to always wanting the newest hot model. I have been with Omega for almost 30 years and doing House of Style on MTV helped broaden my audience.” SUCCESS AS A MODEL IS HAVING THE RIGHT LOOK AT THE RIGHT TIME. BUT… THINGS THAT ALSO CONTRIBUTED TO MY SUCCESS WERE BEING ON TIME AND BEING PREPARED… MODELLING IS A SKILL AND SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN GET BETTER AT. 78 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Jacket, MCM. Singlet, Everlane. Vintage jeans, Levi’s. Earrings; signet ring, Anita Ko
Dress, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Clutch, MCM. Signet ring, Anita Ko. Earring, stylist’s own
lthough Crawford’s career is an almost textbook example of diversifying and future-proofing, she demurs that it was never a calculated move on her part. “It was never part of a big plan, but it evolved as my career evolved. After learning ‘the ropes,’ more and more, I wanted to have more say in the projects I was doing as well as create my own things.” When Crawford first started her career working with photographers like Victor Skrebneski, she was sometimes dubbed by casting directors or agents as Baby Gia, in reference to the late model Gia Carangi who was a successful face in the ’80s. But it is undeniable that she made an impact with her own signature look: healthy, sun-kissed and classic beauty with enviously voluminous hair and that unforgettable beauty mark. When I ask Crawford what she thinks made her successful, her response is thoughtful. “Look, a lot of success as a model is having the right look at the right time. But I think that some of the things that also contributed to my success were being on time and being prepared. I also understood that modelling is a skill and something that you can get better at.” Today, away from the bright lights and buzz of the fashion capitals, Crawford takes inspiration from a different city. “I am inspired by the LA laid-back lifestyle, travel, the beach and being in nature, and my daughter Kaia. It’s been fun revisiting the fashion world with her!” Crawford, who is married to entrepreneur Rande Gerber and has another child, son Presley, is invested in carving time for her own pursuits. “I am most interested in living a balanced life. Time for family, friends, work, philanthropy and self. I want to continue to learn and grow and also, take time to slow down and enjoy all I have.” If she does take on a project or campaign, it is a considered approach on Crawford’s part, who after all, can afford to be picky. “At this point, I look at so many aspects of every opportunity. Of course, I need to love the product or magazine. I also want to make sure that the values are aligned with my values and brand. And finally, I want to make sure I have a great day, so the team is very important!” One of her longest-term projects has been on her brand Meaningful Beauty which she co-created with Dr Jean Louis Sebagh two decades ago. “I’m so excited to be celebrating 20 years of my skincare brand Meaningful Beauty! I originally created this line to share everything I learned about maintaining my skin from French anti-ageing and cosmetic doctor, Dr Jean Louis Sebagh. He had created a special ‘cocktail’ for skin that included super-antioxidants, including a special antioxidant from a French melon. My skin transformed after one treatment in his Paris office. I wanted women everywhere to have access to his unique formulas,” she says. Her go-to product is the Youth Activating Melon Serum made with the brand’s exclusive antioxidant as well as melon leaf stem cell technology and peptides. “It’s so light and gives my skin a beautiful glow.” And what does the woman with one of fashion’s most memorable manes use for her own hair? “Of course Meaningful Beauty’s shampoo and conditioner are both great and treat the signs of thin hair, but I especially love our scalp spray which helps maintain a healthy scalp,” she shares. For a woman who has experienced countless fashion firsts and worked with the best designers, it is perhaps hard to pick one show-stopping moment. Fittingly, her greatest fashion memory coincides with the ending of The Super Models—a re-enactment of the original, iconic runway walk where the four women lipsynched to a George Michael hit song. “The most memorable show was without a doubt the Versace show in 1991 where Christy, Linda, Naomi and I did the finale walking to ‘Freedom’ by George Michael. It was one of those moments you knew was special… even as it was happening.”  I AM INTERESTED IN LIVING A BALANCED LIFE. TIME FOR FAMILY, FRIENDS, WORK, PHILANTHROPY AND SELF. I WANT TO LEARN, GROW AND ALSO, SLOW DOWN AND ENJOY ALL I HAVE. 81 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Trench coat, Max Mara. Boots, Stuart Weitzman. Earrings; signet ring, Anita Ko. Sunglasses (in hand), Jacques Marie Maje. Diamond ring, Crawford’s own OPPOSITE: Jacket, MCM. Dress, Givenchy. Boots, Stuart Weitzman. Earrings, Bonheur Jewelry. Ring, Anita Ko Makeup: Melanie Ingelessis/ Forward Artists Hair: Rob Talty/Forward Artists Manicure: Shigeko Taylor/ Star Touch Agency Producer: Trever Swearingen Production assistant: Jack Morris Digital technician: Luis Jaime Photographer’s assistants: Embry Lopez, Calvin Mendez Assistant stylist: Margrit Jacobsen Stylist’s assistant: Madison Walker
83 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Introducing a new take on timeless dressing with feminine frocks in soft pastels and textured monochromes. Photographed by Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello. Styled by Kai Margrander OPPOSITE: Dress, Maison Margiela. Stockings (worn throughout), Prada. Pumps, Miu Miu 84 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024

Dress, Balenciaga OPPOSITE: Bodysuit; skirt; pumps, Prada
87 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
88 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Top; skirt, Anna October. Pumps, LOEWE OPPOSITE: Dress, Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier. Pumps, Maison Margiela
Dress; bralette and slip dress, Dior. Pumps, Maison Margiela OPPOSITE: Dress; bolero, Louis Vuitton
91 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
92 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Top; skirt, Riani. Pumps, LOEWE OPPOSITE: Coat, Giorgio Armani. Mules, Maison Margiela
Dress, Dolce&Gabbana. Slingbacks, Prada OPPOSITE: Dress, Gucci. Bangle, Giorgio Armani
95 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Cardigan; bralette; skirt, Alexander McQueen OPPOSITE: Blouse; skirt, Brunello Cucinelli. Hairband, Miu Miu. Pumps, Maison Margiela 96 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024


Turtleneck; trousers, Max Mara. Pumps, LOEWE. OPPOSITE: Sweater; trousers, Chanel. Pumps, Prada Model: Alay Deng/State Management Makeup: Lottie/Forward Artists Hair: Kelly Peach/Walter Schupfer Management Casting: Anna Koziakova 99 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
FRILL SEEKER 100 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Tomo Koizumi makes his own rules. Meet the Japanese designer behind the ruffles and rainbow hues. Photographed by Stefan Khoo. Styled and written by Jeffrey Yan Dress, Tomo Koizumi for Japan House Sao Paulo 101 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Tomo Koizumi he story of Tomo Koizumi reads like a fashion fairytale. Toiling away creating stage costumes, unknown outside of his native Tokyo; one day, he was discovered by super-stylist Katie Grand through Instagram. In this story, Grand is the fairy godmother—she whisked him away to New York and enlisted her A-lister friends to help Koizumi put on his first Fashion Week show. It was staged in Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store, and where the likes of Gwendoline Christie, Joan Smalls and Emily Ratajkowski walked. That was in 2019 and since then, Koizumi’s star has only been on the rise. He has dressed Bjork, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Sam Smith and Lil Nas X in his extravagantly ruffled and exuberantly coloured gowns. His work has been acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and shown as part of its Costume Institute’s “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibition. There have been collaborations with Sacai and Emilio Pucci, and he has caught the eye of Dolce&Gabbana, who supported his fall/winter 2023 show with logistical and creative resources. The most notable thing about Koizumi’s ascent is that he is doing things his own way. In a system where bigger always seems to be better, where bottom lines and profit margins and year-on-year growth rule supreme, the designer has chosen to stay small—producing only one collection a year. “Making two collections a year is too hard for me, what’s more, four collections the way big brands do it. I can do it, but I just don’t want to. I want to be able to do whatever I want. I don’t do retail, which is why I can choose this path,” says Koizumi on his decision to eschew the fashion calendar and only focus on custom-made creations. “I think if you create really good work, people won’t forget your brand,” he adds. Many a young designer would be tempted to cash in on the buzz, but not Koizumi. “Sometimes, people ask me why I don’t make more wearable clothes. But those clothes already exist in the market, so I don’t feel like I have to make them. I want to make something different. I don’t want to sacrifice my creativity for a commercial purpose. I don’t need that much money. I’m enjoying what I’m doing now—I can paint, I can make dresses, I can work with celebrities and great people. That’s enough. I want to have the freedom where I can stop if I want to stop,” he says. That freedom to pause or pivot is even more important to Koizumi now that he has rediscovered another metier in which to express himself. The designer studied painting, not fashion, when he was at university and has recently fallen back in love with the medium. “I don’t think I will create a new collection in 2024, because I want to focus on art,” says Koizumi, who has just held his first solo art exhibition in Tokyo in December. Spring/summer 2024 marked a turning point in the way he approached his work. Instead of his usual dramatic, delightful dresses, the pieces Koizumi created for the collection were more like wearable art—hand-painted soft sculptures that can be hung on the wall like Abstract Minimalist tapestries, or draped free-form around the body. “In the beginning, I was kind of stuck when it came to the idea of art. I thought it had to be square, it had to be on the wall, or it had to be in a frame. But then I thought maybe I can make something beautiful with what I have been doing—my aesthetic and my ruffle technique. I wanted to combine the two—fashion and art. I have always loved things that don’t fall into one category,” explains Koizumi on the impetus behind his latest collection. Which brings us to the eternal question: Is fashion art? Koizumi answers, “I’m still trying to figure that out, and I’m still struggling. It’s a question with no correct answer. Which is why it’s so interesting, and why it’s so worth it to explore. But I also believe the way that I’m struggling with the question is beautiful, because I think it will bring me somewhere new. The pieces I showed [for spring/summer 2024] are not the answer, but there is still beauty in that. I’m still shaping my own mind. And it’s fun.”  102 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Bolero; Dolce&Gabbana bra; leg warmers, Tomo Koizumi fall/winter 2023 103 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
104 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
Dress, Tomo Koizumi spring/summer 2022 OPPOSITE: Dress, Tomo Koizumi spring/summer 2024. Platform wedges, Roger Vivier Model: Kaimin/Now Model Management Makeup: Clarence Lee Hair: Ken Hong/ Evolve Salon Photographer’s assistants: Chong Ng; Yann Cloitre Stylist’s assistants: Caleb Lim, Larissa Wong 105 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
…Give your bag game a metamorphosis? Embroidered butterflies take classic quilting to new heights. BY JEFFREY YAN. PHOTOGRAPHY: TAN SHUO Bag, $4,500, Dior 106 HARPER’S BAZAAR JANUARY 2024
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF MCM Read more fashion and style content at WWW.HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.SG HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE